Re: 55/1.2 Cosina?

2002-01-04 Thread Dan Scott

Thanks, Mark. I just ran across some of these listed on the web, new, for
what seemed to be a too good to be true price compared to what a new or
used Pentax 50/1.2 runs for. All the better for keeping me on track with my
new years resolutions ("will not be an equipment junkie...this year").

Sorry to hear about your job. We went through that 6 months ago, with the
people around my wife getting the "tap on the shoulder". Very nerve
wracking.

Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

>Dan,
>
>I have the Revue 55/1.2 which appears to be the same as the Cosina / Ricoh /
>Vivitar 55/1.2's.  I suspect that this lens has it's roots in a M42 design
>from
>Cosina ( or some other "Generic" source ).
>
>Paul Stregevsky and I did some comparisons of various 55/1.2 designs last
>year.  This was before my employer discovered the joys of laying off my co-
>workers and leaving me with their work. :(  They all bear a noticeable
>resemblance.
>
>The lens cost me considerably less than a Pentax 50/1.2 would have.  It isn't
>as sharp as or as well made as my M & K 50/1.4's at any given aperture.
>However, it is better at taking pictures at F1.2 than either of those will
>ever
>be...
>
>Mark Gosdin
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-04 Thread Timothy Sherburne

Interesting. Pop Photo's film comparison table notes that Kodak's GA, GB and
GC films all have "medium high" contrast, and Fuji Superia Reala 100,
Superia 200 and 400 have "medium" contrast. (Apparently, Fuji Superia 100 is
different in that it has "high" contrast. Go figure.) I wonder how their
judging contrast in their tests.

t

On 1/4/02 5:54 PM, William Robb wrote:

> What Greenpus is not taking into account, anoung other things,
> is that there are significant contrast differences between 100,
> 200 and 400 films, at least the consumer ones from Kodak and
> Fuji.
> Gold 200 is one of Kodak's better films, and I have always been
> very fond of the Fuji 200 speed films as well.
> William Robb
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Re: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)

2002-01-04 Thread Alan Chan

>It's not the sound, really - it's the whirring ~feel~ that I don't
>care for.  And (despite the fact that some feel I am altogether just
>too damned picky about this efect), the sensation is so slight in
>the F* 300/4.5 that I really don't mind it at all.  (Really!)  On
>the other hand, I think I could still feel the focus whirring in
>many of the AF lenses without MF/AF clutches even outside, even
>standing next to a cement mixer - .

Just in case you might be interested in knowing this. As I remember, the AF 
mechanism inside this F*300/4.5 is a one big plastic ring (white colour if 
it matters) with gears (connected to a smaller metal one). Personally, I 
would be careful and not stress it too much (say, turn the focus ring while 
the body in AF mode). Also, the IC on the lens mount is very fragile so one 
must be extremely careful if trying to open the lens. That's my observation 
when I stripped down one many years ago.

I used to be pretty picky on my gears too, but I reckon I am not buying the 
most expensive equipment on earth, so I just learn to accept what I can 
afford. I am still learning...  :(

regards,
Alan Chan

_
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Re: 400 5.6 Takumar

2002-01-04 Thread Bob Rapp

I picked up the lens this morning and, as the seller was explaining how
the adaptor got stuck, I unscrewed the thing. Overall the lens is in very
good condition and the glass is clear. Also included was a Pentax UV filter.
The 2X adaptor is screw on one end and Nikon on the other.

Bob
- Original Message -
From: "Bob Rapp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 9:33 PM
Subject: 400 5.6 Takumar


> I'm not sure that I should celebrate or not. I have won a BIN 400 f5.6
> Takumar for about 45 US. It is said to have a permanently attached 2X
> converter on it. Nothing is permanent. I will let the list if it is a
"door
> stop" or something usable - but for 45.00?
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Rapp {:~)
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 12:15  AM, Stan Halpin wrote:

> Aaron - the Window shot is fantastic! Good eye.

Thanks!  It was a lovely house, so really I can't take credit for it.

-Aaron
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Friday, January 4, 2002, at 09:01  PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

>  (I also think you really
> nailed the exposures on both of these.)

The barn is a touch over on the transparency.  :)

> Were they off a tripod? I blew
> them up to 300%, and while that causes them to pixelate, I can still get
> a feel for how much detail there is in the wood and wall textures.

Nope, all three were hand held.  The barn in particular has a lot of 
detail, but in the window shot you can almost read the headline on the 
newspaper when blown up from the 4000dpi scan...but it also shows that 
the very back of the window is a little soft.  :)

>  I tend to
> favor the 35 over the 28 in 35mm landscape photography, so perhaps I
> should go for this lens before I buy a 55/4. That $750 price tag seems
> quite reasonable.

I quite like the perspective of my old Super Tak 35mm f2.0, which is why 
I was attracted to the 75mm.  Also, the fast maximum aperture and 
excellent (for medium format) minimum focus distance and small size and 
light weight made me positively lust after this lens.

The price seems quite reasonable, too.

-Aaron
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Friday, January 4, 2002, at 07:45  PM, Dan Scott wrote:

> What film, and how much of the 6X7 frames
> are we looking at here?

All Astia...the barn I desaturated, cuz it ended up looking a little 
ugly in colour.  All scans are as close to full frame as possible (I'd 
say about 98%).

-Aaron
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Friday, January 4, 2002, at 06:52  PM, Michel Adam wrote:

> Now there's converging lines! Now, go back and do it again with
> the shift lens!

I was gonna fix it in Photoshop...but I decided not to.  I was hoping no 
one would notice.  ;)

-Aaron
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Re: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)

2002-01-04 Thread Shel Belinkoff

You can never be to picky, just as you can never be too rich or too thin


Like you, I don't find the difference between a good K-mount and a good
Super Tak to be that great.  I seem to prefer some lenses of one type
over some of the other - IOW, they both feel good. 

We all have our preferences and things that get to us more or less than
the next person.  You happened to be annoyed somewhat by the feel and
the sound of some lenses. To those that have criticized you I say that
they, too, have probably complained about some feature, function, or
feel of one Pentax or another.  


Fred wrote:

> Your post, though, made me aware of one thing, Shel:  I have been
> accused of being too picky about focus feel, but I honestly find
> earlier K lenses just as satisfying to use as any of the screwmounts
> I've used.  Now there are some who claim that the best screwmount
> lenses are better than any K-mount lens.  However, rather than
> disagreeing with that (and I don't), this pointed out to me that I
> am not completely picky, or I would feel strongly about this subtle
> m42-vs-K difference (and I don't).  So, therefore, when I complain
> about some lens that feels like I'm driving a gear train when I'm
> only trying to focus it manually, I am not one who is merely picky
> about everything - .

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
"Faster horses, younger women, older whiskey, more money"
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Re: Some buying advice

2002-01-04 Thread wendy beard

>Friday, January 04, 2002, 10:57:47 PM, Flavio wrote:
>
> >> there's a guy next door (nearly) selling a MX
> >> with 28/2.8, 50/2, 135/3.5, 200/4, 80-200/4.5.
> >> I don't know anything about the conditions of
> >> all this but the prices are interesting enough
> >> to pay him a visit.
> >>
> >> I'd like to have your suggestion/advice on the
> >> quality of the lenses and/or thing to look out
> >> for about the MX.

Lenses:
Sound good enough to me - I've got three of the ones you list (50, 135 and 
200). Good entry level stuff. The 135 is a nice size too (I presume it's an 
M version)

To check for on the MX:
Shutter speed dial matching what you see in the viewfinder (nice but not 
essential!)
Hot shoe and/or x-synch working

Wendy

---
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Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Paul Stenquist

Wow! Great bokeh. And it looks like you've got some terrific sharpness
and detail on the barn shot and window shot. (I also think you really
nailed the exposures on both of these.) Were they off a tripod? I blew
them up to 300%, and while that causes them to pixelate, I can still get
a feel for how much detail there is in the wood and wall textures. Looks
like you have a winner there. I like the perspective as well. I tend to
favor the 35 over the 28 in 35mm landscape photography, so perhaps I
should go for this lens before I buy a 55/4. That $750 price tag seems
quite reasonable.
  I did some tests for sharpness and detail with the 150/2.8. (The
appraisals of this lens seem to vary widely.) I was pleased with the
sharpness and color rendition. The bokey is so-so. There's a lo-res scan
from an ektachrome transparency on the upper left corner of this page
The page is somewhat slow loading, as it includes six images.
http://home.earthlink.net/~pnstenquist/index.html


Aaron Reynolds wrote:

> Here are three quick scans:
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg
>
> http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg
>
> I like this lens.
>
> -Aaron
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Re: Odp: SFXn Manual

2002-01-04 Thread Len Paris

I downloaded the Super Program manual from there and it is in
English.  It's a .pdf that is Zipped.

Len
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-04 Thread William Robb

- Original Message -
From: "Timothy Sherburne"
Subject: Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100


> FWIW, ol' Greenspun recommends either 100 or 400 ISO for print
films, and to
> stay away from 200. The resolving power of 200 and 400 are
usually so close
> that you might as well get the 400 and the extra stop that
comes with it.
>
> 
>
> t

What Greenpus is not taking into account, anoung other things,
is that there are significant contrast differences between 100,
200 and 400 films, at least the consumer ones from Kodak and
Fuji.
Gold 200 is one of Kodak's better films, and I have always been
very fond of the Fuji 200 speed films as well.
William Robb
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread wendy beard

At 20:19 4-1-2002 -0500, you wrote:
>From: Aaron Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7
>
>Here are three quick scans:
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg
>
>I like this lens.
>
>- -Aaron

Bummer.
Now I want one.
(got to get a 6x7 first though..)

Wendy

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Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Ho Paul,

Because he wants an autofocus camera that's small enough and simple
enough for his wife to use.

He does want interchangeable lenses, as he might want to borrow some of
mine some time, so fixed-lens P&S cameras are out.  He's happy with the
ZX-7.  What's "auto wipe"?

"Paul M. Provencher" wrote:
> 
> If he has a Spotmatic, why not go buy a 
> decent used SMCT Zoom 85~210?  Hell, it 
> would cost not much more than (if that) the cost of
> the repair.  And forget the plastic crap.
> 
> Or (blasphemy) go find a nice Canon Sure Shot Zoom
> - I hate to admit it but my wife gets tack sharp 
> images properly exposed and focused every stinking 
> time.  Plenty of Zoom flexibility, and no need to 
> focus (it's auto focus, auto load, auto flash, auto wipe)

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Comparing Grain: Fuji and Kodak

2002-01-04 Thread William Robb

"Joseph Tainter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote in message
news:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>...
> As we all know, Kodak made it impossible to compare the grain
of their
> film to that of other manufacturers, by establishing their own
(PGI)
> standard. I need a low-contrast C-41 film to take on a trip,
and must
> decide between NPH 400 and Portra 400 NC.
>
> Has anyone independently tested Kodak's products to see how it
would
> rate on the standard RMS scale?

Hi Joseph, have a look at the following two links, which are a
couple of remanants of my film tests from a couple of years ago.
I realize that NHGII is not current, but if anything, NPH should
be better, I would think. I will leave this stuff up for a few
days. Feel free to download anything you find useful.

http://www.accesscomm.ca/users/wrobb/KodakPortra400VC
http://www.accesscomm.ca/users/wrobb/FujiNHGII
William Robb
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FS: Black ME Super, Super Program, Ring Flash, ME-F with Original AF lens

2002-01-04 Thread John Mustarde

I have an excellent condition Super Program, an almost mint Black ME
Super, and some sort of third-party ring flash set-up in the original
case. Plus I have an ME-F with the original Pentax 35-70/2.8 clunky AF
lens for the ME-F  - all will probably end up on Ebay soon. Let me
know if anyone is interested - I haven't researched current prices
yet, but I'm willing to consider reasonable offers that will save me
and the buyer the hassle of Ebay.

--
John Mustarde
www.photolin.com
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-04 Thread wendy beard

At 17:59 4-1-2002 -0500, you wrote:

>Thanks to Shel and everyone else who took the time to answer my question about
>the screw to K adapter and it's use with the MX.  Now I just have to buy one
>(an MX, that is).  Or maybe a Voigtlander Bessa R.  I know it's apples and
>oranges, but the MX can be gotten for cheaper, it's a Pentax (in keeping with
>the fact that this is a Pentax list, after all), and I can use my screws on it
>until I get a few K-mounts.  So, I guess I'm looking for one of those.  Or
>maybe a 6x7.  645?  If only an LX!
>
>Makes no difference, I'm broke anyway!  :-)
>
>regards,
>frank

You can borrow one of mine if you want until you've paid off all those 
Christmas credit card bills. (seriously!)
I've got one that I'm not emotionally attached to (yet). So far it's only 
known as "the French one".
Just give me a shout if you're interested. I'm not trying to sell it or 
anything. Just can't pass up an opportunity to gain another MX convert!

Wendy

---
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Ottawa, Canada
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RE: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Paul M. Provencher

If he has a Spotmatic, why not go buy a decent used SMCT Zoom 85~210?  Hell, it would 
cost not much more than (if that) the cost of
the repair.  And forget the plastic crap.

Or (blasphemy) go find a nice Canon Sure Shot Zoom - I hate to admit it but my wife 
gets tack sharp images properly exposed and
focused every stinking time.  Plenty of Zoom flexibility, and no need to focus (it's 
auto focus, auto load, auto flash, auto wipe)

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 6:17 PM
> To: Pentax List
> Subject: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses
>
>
>
> A friend of mine, heeding advice from this list, purchased a ZX-7 a
> little more than a year ago, and grabbed a Tamron zoom (28~200 maybe -
> don't recall right now) to use primarily for family snaps and a trip
> that he and his wife took last year.
>
> The lens is toast.  It doesn't work and he's been told that the
> "electronics" are fried, and that it'll cost $220.00 to repair.  Now,
> frankly, I don't give a rat's ass why the lens failed, or whether or not
> it can be repaired, or if the price is reasonable, or even if the lens
> doesn't have electronics.  It just frosts me that the enjoyment of his
> recent trip to Mexico was lessened by the lens breaking in some
> fashion.  He, and his wife, are very disappointed.  Sheesh!  all he
> wanted was a simple lens for a simple camera.
>
> Yeah, I know that things break, but the truth is, a lens should last
> longer than a year, and not cost a week's pay to repair.
>
> Good.  Now that that's off my chest, what's a good replacement lens?
> Build quality is important, optical quality commensurate with family
> snaps and occasional 8x10, color print use.  Cole's like me - he likes
> to keep things a long time.  You should see his old Spotmatic and Super
> Tak 50/1.4 - sharp, clean, and working perfectly.
>
> So, what does the list suggest for a quality consumer lens?
> --
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: January PUG - unsolicited comments from Cotty

2002-01-04 Thread Gianfranco Irlanda

Cotty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> gently wrote:
> Broken Wing
> Gianfranco Irlanda
> Now, I can tell you I would not have had the balls to submit
that shot. 
> Not only does Gianfranco submit it, but gets away with it.
Wonderful. The 
> pic is nothing without the clothes-peg. Dali eat yer heart
out!

Thanks again, Cotty!
Your comments are always a nice reading.

I did submit this shot at the last moment, without having really
the time of thinking about it. I didn't want to miss a gallery,
but also I had nothing in mind really worth it. When I did find
this picture in the HD I said "why not?".
It was just a test, nothing more, both of the K2 and of the
Kodachrome that I was using for the first time in my life.
BTW, I must confess that I like shooting clothes-pegs...

Gianfranco


=
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Re: Odp: SFXn Manual

2002-01-04 Thread Rob Studdert

On 5 Jan 2002 at 1:54, Artur Ledóchowski wrote:

> - Original Message -
> From: Carlos Royo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: SFXn Manual
> 
> 
> > You can find an SFXn manual in this page:
> >
> > http://www.pentaxclub.co.kr/manual/manual.htm
> >
> > It is an 8 MB download, though, and I don't know in which language it
> > comes.
> 
> Korean, unfortunately:(( Just like the other manual (a lot of stuff)
> there...

Not all of it, some is from the MIR site and some from Mark Roberts :-(

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)

2002-01-04 Thread Kenneth Waller

The hood on the 600 FA is similar. On the 300mm f4.5 FA the  hood is totally
removeable  and is stored on the lens in the reverse position. When
installing,  it takes a slight twist to engage the bayonet.
Ken Waller
- Original Message -
From: Fred <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 12:59 PM
Subject: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)


> Since I don't have much experience with the newer AF lenses with
> hoods, my question is this:  Is the hood action in the F* 300/4.5
> similar to the action with ~other~ F and FA lenses (the ones that
> have built-in hoods)?  Or, if not, how do the other AF lenses with
> built-in hoods behave?
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Re: Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)

2002-01-04 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Yep, you're too damned picky.  Comes from being raised on early K-mounts
and Super Taks.

Fred wrote:

> Also, as a (much-criticized) critic of the "whirring" manual focus
> feel in some of the AF lenses, I do have to say that the AF/MF
> clutch in the F* 300/4.5 (as in the FA* 85/1.4) does make for some
> pretty nice manual focusing.  Interestingly, there is still a ~very~
> small amount of that "whirring" feel in the F* 300/4.5 (while it is
> absent altogether in the FA* 85/1.4), but it barely perceptible (and
> ~only~ felt at all when turning the focus ring rapidly), but this is
> still ~much~ less than in some of the AF lenses I have tried that
> lack the AF/MF clutch mechanism.  But, as some have suggested, I
> guess I'm maybe just too picky about MF focus feel.  (Yeah,
> right...)

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Shel Belinkoff

What kind of electronics are in these lenses?

aimcompute wrote:

> He doesn't go out and take pictures 
> of electrical storms does he? :-)

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: Tamron Warranty (was Cheap Crap ....)

2002-01-04 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Great news!  I've called my friend and he's going to look into it. 
Thanks!  It made my interrupting his dinner almost acceptable .

Mark Erickson wrote:
> 
> Shel (and all),
> 
> Doesn't Tamron have a 6-year warranty on their lenses?  Seems like your
> friend should be able to have his lens repaired by Tamron under warranty.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-04 Thread geordie

I just recently bought myself an MX, right before Christmas, so I guess it
was a "gift" of sorts. I definitely enjoy using it much more than my ME,
primarily because of the DOF preview, and all the manual features. I also
like having more control over my DOF and shutter speeds.

What's next for me? An LX? If ever see one in a store, I'll be sure to snap
it upbut they are never available around here.

geordie
victoria, bc

 -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist
> > Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 5:36 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: The Wonderful MX
> >
> >
> > I like my MX's (2), but I have a closer attachment to my
> > Spotmatics. I started
> > working with M42 cameras thirty years ago, and I've come to
> > identify with the
> > old geezers. Mine are semi-retired (the LX is my main shooter),
> > but I pull a
> > Spotty out on occasion, because the SMC Tak glass is so good. I have
three
> > Spotmatic Fs and one Spotmatic motor drive, along with about a
> > dozen SMC Tak
> > lenses. I will keep them until I die.
> > Paul
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Re: Odp: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Shel Belinkoff

He's used it but a dozen or so times.

Artur Ledóchowski wrote:
 
> You may want to instruct your friend on 
> how one should treat such equipment
> as lens:)) Don't drive nails with it:))

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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Re: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #1857

2002-01-04 Thread Doug Franklin

On Sat, 5 Jan 2002 08:07:56 +1030, Trish Johnson wrote:

> [...] If it breaks cause of the hammer, it needed replacing
> anyway).

"If it don't fit, force it ... if it breaks, it needed replacing
anyway." :-)

TTYL, DougF
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Odp: SFXn Manual

2002-01-04 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: Carlos Royo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: SFXn Manual


> You can find an SFXn manual in this page:
>
> http://www.pentaxclub.co.kr/manual/manual.htm
>
> It is an 8 MB download, though, and I don't know in which language it
> comes.

Korean, unfortunately:(( Just like the other manual (a lot of stuff)
there...
Greetz
Artur
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Re: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Dan Scott

"Ooh...aah...ohh".

I think I like you new lens, too. What film, and how much of the 6X7 frames
are we looking at here?

What a great way to break in the New Year,

Dan (I'm not envious--green is my normal color...) Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Aaron wrote:

>Here are three quick scans:
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg
>
>I like this lens.
>
>-Aaron
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Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread aimcompute

We've had a Tamron 28-300 for two years.  Works perfectly, never a problem
and produces very nice results.

Probably just the luck of the draw.

He doesn't go out and take pictures of electrical storms does he? :-)

I have a Pentax 28-80 AF, like brand new, that I'm trying to sell for $45.
I've never critiqued it as it was only used for about two rolls of film
before buying the longer zoom.  It's a lens.

Tom C.

- Original Message -
From: "Shel Belinkoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Pentax List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses


> A friend of mine, heeding advice from this list, purchased a ZX-7 a
> little more than a year ago, and grabbed a Tamron zoom (28~200 maybe -
> don't recall right now) to use primarily for family snaps and a trip
> that he and his wife took last year.
>
> The lens is toast.  It doesn't work and he's been told that the
> "electronics" are fried, and that it'll cost $220.00 to repair.  Now,
> frankly, I don't give a rat's ass why the lens failed, or whether or not
> it can be repaired, or if the price is reasonable, or even if the lens
> doesn't have electronics.  It just frosts me that the enjoyment of his
> recent trip to Mexico was lessened by the lens breaking in some
> fashion.  He, and his wife, are very disappointed.  Sheesh!  all he
> wanted was a simple lens for a simple camera.
>
> Yeah, I know that things break, but the truth is, a lens should last
> longer than a year, and not cost a week's pay to repair.
>
> Good.  Now that that's off my chest, what's a good replacement lens?
> Build quality is important, optical quality commensurate with family
> snaps and occasional 8x10, color print use.  Cole's like me - he likes
> to keep things a long time.  You should see his old Spotmatic and Super
> Tak 50/1.4 - sharp, clean, and working perfectly.
>
> So, what does the list suggest for a quality consumer lens?
> --
> Shel Belinkoff
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Odp: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Artur Ledóchowski

- Original Message -
From: Shel Belinkoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses


> Good.  Now that that's off my chest, what's a good replacement lens?
> Build quality is important, optical quality commensurate with family
> snaps and occasional 8x10, color print use.  Cole's like me - he likes
> to keep things a long time.  You should see his old Spotmatic and Super
> Tak 50/1.4 - sharp, clean, and working perfectly.
>
> So, what does the list suggest for a quality consumer lens?

Yet another Tamron or Sigma or Tokina or Pentax (28-105, 28-135 or 28-200).
IMHO anything will do...
I'd avoid Cosina, Vivitar etc...
You may want to instruct your friend on how one should treat such equipment
as lens:)) Don't drive nails with it:))
Greetz
Artur
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Re[2]: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-04 Thread Bruce Dayton

Kenneth,

It certainly would be interesting to compare the MTBF of the motors of
the PZ-1p and the ZX-5n.  After using them both, I gotta believe the
PZ-1p is higher.


Bruce Dayton



Friday, January 04, 2002, 4:11:27 PM, you wrote:

KW> I've had a failure of the motor on a PZ1 after several years of heavy usage
KW> (maybe 1500 - 2000 rolls of 36 exp, no home rolled), and also on a PZ1P
KW> after significantly less usage than the PZ1. The Pentax repair tech in
KW> Colorado said it was unusual, but not unexpected given the amount of usage.

KW> Ken Waller
KW> - Original Message -
KW> From: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
KW> To: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
KW> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 12:16 PM
KW> Subject: Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


>> Raimo,
>>
>> Don't know for sure, but based on reports on the list here for the
>> past several years, I would say that the PZ-1p is more reliable on
>> motors.  There have been multiple reports of ZX-5's failing on film
>> transport and I have yet to hear of any PZ-1p's.  My guess is that the
>> ZX series motors are cheaper and lighter - has nothing to do with
>> better reliability, only worse.
>>
>>
>> Bruce Dayton
>>
>>
>>
>> Friday, January 04, 2002, 9:08:00 AM, you wrote:
>>
>> RK> Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But
KW> does it really affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell.
KW> Maybe the MZ series has less torque to improve
>> RK> longevity, who knows?
>> RK> Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had
KW> 3 motors. Many cameras have only one.
>> RK> All the best!
>> RK> Raimo
>> RK> Personal photography homepage at
KW> http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
>>
>> RK> -Alkuperäinen viesti-
>> RK> Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> RK> Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> RK> Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00
>> RK> Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question
>>
>>
>> >>Raimo,
>> >>
>> >>Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film?  It doesn't roll in and
>> >>out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff.  I have
>> >>several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's.  When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p
>> >>tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch).  The ZX's
>> >>however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk
>> >>rolled film.  Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones.  So I
>> >>am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better
>> >>than the ZX's.  My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but
>> >>not quite as strong as the PZ-1p.
>> >>
>> >>Hope this clears things up.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>Bruce Dayton
>> -
>> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
>> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
>> visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
KW> -
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KW> go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Motor Drive LX

2002-01-04 Thread talampaya

Just in case someone be interested: today saw a Motor Drive LX, new, boxed
with manual, for sale at 207 euro (about 186 US$). This in Rome, Italy @
Ottica Debernardis (Piazza della Cancelleria).
Ciao
Fabio
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R: PUG Commentary

2002-01-04 Thread talampaya

Thank you Jim!
"Real"? Mother Nature did it... I just took the picture (with the little ad
of a polarizer filter...) Unfortunately, the scanned image doesn't feature
the slide's emerald green of the water.
Ciao
Fabio
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 2:07 PM
Subject: PUG Commentary


> Hi PDMLsters
> I normally like to choose just one shot to comment on but this month's PUG
> seemed very impressive so here are comments on a few pics that
particularly
> caught my eye:
> (...)
> Green, Red, Yellow & Blue, Facit - is this for real? It's gorgeous.
> (...)
> Jim Brooks
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Re: Tripod Collar for FA* 300 F4.5

2002-01-04 Thread Kenneth Waller

I believe Bogen makes a lens support bracket, but I'm not sure it would fit
the 300mm FA. I have had the 300mm FA for several years and while I would
prefer a lens tripod mount, I get along fine with the lens/camera body combo
tripod mounted through the camera body.
Ken Waller
- Original Message -
From: Fred <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 1:03 PM
Subject: Re: Tripod Collar for FA* 300 F4.5


> > Yes, someone who used to give input to the list had a tripod
> > collar for this lens custom-machined by a metal shop, and even
> > posted jpegs to this list of the completed product actually on the
> > lens.   It looked good.  There was an offer to the list I think
> > for about $75.00, if I recall correctly.  I did not have the lens
> > at the time so i did not save the name, jpegs, or the contact.
> > Perhaps someone else
>
> I don't know anything about the custom tripod bracket that you are
> referring to, Mark, but as a recent owner of the F* version of this
> lens, I can see why an FA* 300/4.5 owner might want to have such a
> tripod bracket.  (Similarly, I do wish that a tripod collar was
> available for the M* and A* 300/4 lenses, but there just simply
> isn't any "space" to attach a collar to on these lenses.)
>
> I will say that the tripod collar on the F* 300/4.5 seems to be
> somewhat of a mixed blessing.  Its size (at least to me) seems a bit
> of overkill.  The design of the bracket in the A* 200/4 Macro lens
> seems much nicer, both in size and in ease of mounting and
> dismounting - the A* 200/4 Macro's collar nicely attaches and
> detaches with a knob similar to its locking/unlocking knob, while
> the F* 300/4.5's collar requires a coin to attach or detach it.
>
> It does seem a shame to me that the M*/A* 300/4 and FA* 300/4.5
> designs really should have been equipped with tripod collars.  While
> the lenses are quite hand-holdable (and here I'm assuming that the
> FA* lens is about the same as the F* lens) under bright conditions,
> 300mm is a lot of focal length to not have a tripod/monopod collar
> instantly available when needed, in my opinion.
>
> Fred
> -
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Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-04 Thread Kenneth Waller

I've had a failure of the motor on a PZ1 after several years of heavy usage
(maybe 1500 - 2000 rolls of 36 exp, no home rolled), and also on a PZ1P
after significantly less usage than the PZ1. The Pentax repair tech in
Colorado said it was unusual, but not unexpected given the amount of usage.

Ken Waller
- Original Message -
From: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 12:16 PM
Subject: Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


> Raimo,
>
> Don't know for sure, but based on reports on the list here for the
> past several years, I would say that the PZ-1p is more reliable on
> motors.  There have been multiple reports of ZX-5's failing on film
> transport and I have yet to hear of any PZ-1p's.  My guess is that the
> ZX series motors are cheaper and lighter - has nothing to do with
> better reliability, only worse.
>
>
> Bruce Dayton
>
>
>
> Friday, January 04, 2002, 9:08:00 AM, you wrote:
>
> RK> Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But
does it really affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell.
Maybe the MZ series has less torque to improve
> RK> longevity, who knows?
> RK> Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had
3 motors. Many cameras have only one.
> RK> All the best!
> RK> Raimo
> RK> Personal photography homepage at
http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
>
> RK> -Alkuperäinen viesti-
> RK> Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> RK> Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> RK> Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00
> RK> Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question
>
>
> >>Raimo,
> >>
> >>Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film?  It doesn't roll in and
> >>out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff.  I have
> >>several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's.  When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p
> >>tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch).  The ZX's
> >>however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk
> >>rolled film.  Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones.  So I
> >>am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better
> >>than the ZX's.  My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but
> >>not quite as strong as the PZ-1p.
> >>
> >>Hope this clears things up.
> >>
> >>
> >>Bruce Dayton
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
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Tamron Warranty (was Cheap Crap ....)

2002-01-04 Thread Mark Erickson

Shel (and all),

Doesn't Tamron have a 6-year warranty on their lenses?  Seems like your 
friend should be able to have his lens repaired by Tamron under warranty. 

 --Mark
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RE: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Michel Adam

>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Aaron Reynolds
>Sent: Friday, 04 January, 2002 16:38
>To: Pentax Discuss
>Subject: some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7
>
>
>Here are three quick scans:
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg

Now there's converging lines! Now, go back and do it again with
the shift lens!

Michel


>
>http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg
>
>I like this lens.
>
>-Aaron
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Re: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-04 Thread Timothy Sherburne

FWIW, ol' Greenspun recommends either 100 or 400 ISO for print films, and to
stay away from 200. The resolving power of 200 and 400 are usually so close
that you might as well get the 400 and the extra stop that comes with it.



t


On 1/4/02 3:07 PM, Lawrence Kwan wrote:

> On Thu, 3 Jan 2002, Rob Brigham wrote:
>> RG200 is actually very good.  It is the only film I ever give the wife
>> to put in her P&S.  There is very little grain difference between RG100
>> and RG200, and the characteristics are pretty much identical.
> 
> Actually, RG100 is supposed to have significantly finer grain than RG200.
> Here the specs from Kodak web site:
> 
> Print Grain Index for 4"x6" prints (4.4x):
> Royal Gold 10028
> Royal Gold 20041
> Royal Gold 40039
> 
> The above is *not* a typo.  Somewhat surprisingly, RG400 has slightly
> finer grain than RG200, albeit the difference is miniscule.  And from my
> impression, it seems that as far as grain fineness is concerned, there is
> usually little to gain going from 400 to 200 (as opposed to going from 400
> to 100).
> 
> For what is worth, here are some other Kodak films' PGI for comparison:
> Supra 100 27
> Supra 40036
> Supra 80050
> Portra 160NC30
> Portra 400NC41
> 
> References:
> http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e2509/e2509.shtml
> http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e42/index.shtml
> http://www.kodak.com/cluster/global/en/consumer/products/techInfo/e41/index.sh
> tml
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Re[2]: Some buying advice

2002-01-04 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

another common problem with MXs is that they can develop just a tiny
bit of play in the shutter release. This is often just enough to
switch on the metering circuit and force it to stay on, so if the
camera is stored with a little bit of pressure on the shutter release
the batteries will drain. It needn't stop anybody from buying the
camera, but it's something to be aware of.

On some MXs the film advance dial stops working too.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Friday, January 04, 2002, 10:57:47 PM, you wrote:

> Flavio,

> Are these M or K lenses?  I think all the primes have a good reputation, except for 
>the M28/2.8 which is not sharp and prone to sticky shutter blades.  Careful there.  I 
>cannot comment on the zoom.

> I'd judge the MX by sound and feel, plus the obvious bumps and bruises.  The film 
>wind gets loose and irregular with heavy usage.  Does the shutter sound right?  Cycle 
>it thru all the shutter
> speeds for a check.  Slow speeds sound different?  Of course check the metering, 
>those damned LED's aren't very bright either!  Mirror foam and door seals should be 
>in good shape, although they are
> easy(inexpensive) to replace.

> Good Luck,  Bob S.

>> there's a guy next door (nearly) selling a MX
>> with 28/2.8, 50/2, 135/3.5, 200/4, 80-200/4.5.
>> I don't know anything about the conditions of
>> all this but the prices are interesting enough
>> to pay him a visit.
>>
>> I'd like to have your suggestion/advice on the
>> quality of the lenses and/or thing to look out
>> for about the MX.
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some quick scans from the 75mm f2.8 AL for 6x7

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

Here are three quick scans:

http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/bokeh.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/barn.jpg

http://homepage.mac.com/aaronreynolds/.Pictures/window.jpg

I like this lens.

-Aaron
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Built-in Hood Action in F* 300/4.5 (and others?)

2002-01-04 Thread Fred

Recently I picked up an F* 300/4.5 lens (with the monster tripod
bracket and the unusual dedicated soft case for the lens and
bracket).

At first I was concerned about the lens hood behavior.  Extending
the hood required unscrewing the hood a bit before pulling it out
(and I figured that out quickly enough), but then the hood sort of
seemed a bit "floppy", and just sort of "drooped" a few degrees.

I was concerned about this, since I once had a Tokina AT-X
150-500/5.6 zoom that had to go back to the factory repair station
in California to have the hood's felt lining replaced to cure such a
"drooping hood" problem, and I was afraid that the new F* 300/4.5
might have the same problem and would require a similar cure.

However, I then found out that I was not doing all that was
necessary to extend the hood:  After unscrewing the hood from its
retracted position and then pulling it out, one is supposed to "keep
unscrewing", which locks the hood into its extended position quite
securely.

With most of the Pentax telephotos (and big Tokina zooms) that I
have used (e.g., M* and A* 300/4, K 200/2.5, A* 200/2.8), the hood
simply slides in and out, with no locking provided (or necessary)
when retracted or extended (although the A* 600/5.6 does have a
knurled set screw for locking).  So, I sort of expected the F*
300/4.5 to do the same as the others.

Since I don't have much experience with the newer AF lenses with
hoods, my question is this:  Is the hood action in the F* 300/4.5
similar to the action with ~other~ F and FA lenses (the ones that
have built-in hoods)?  Or, if not, how do the other AF lenses with
built-in hoods behave?

I am still looking forward to more fully comparing the performance
of the F* 300/4.5 with that of the M* and A* 300/4 lenses.

Also, as a (much-criticized) critic of the "whirring" manual focus
feel in some of the AF lenses, I do have to say that the AF/MF
clutch in the F* 300/4.5 (as in the FA* 85/1.4) does make for some
pretty nice manual focusing.  Interestingly, there is still a ~very~
small amount of that "whirring" feel in the F* 300/4.5 (while it is
absent altogether in the FA* 85/1.4), but it barely perceptible (and
~only~ felt at all when turning the focus ring rapidly), but this is
still ~much~ less than in some of the AF lenses I have tried that
lack the AF/MF clutch mechanism.  But, as some have suggested, I
guess I'm maybe just too picky about MF focus feel.  (Yeah,
right...)

Fred
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Re: Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Bruce Dayton

Shel,

Every consumer Tokina that I have looked at are heavier, metal bodied
behomeths compared to the Tamron and Sigma and even many Pentax zooms.
The Tamrons being fairly light (I have two for my wife and daughter,
are starting to mechanically fall apart) balance well on the light,
Pentax bodies, but over the years, the Tokinas have been built like
tanks.  Their website is www.thkphoto.com.  They have a 24-200 zoom
they he might find interesting.

Hope this helps.


Bruce Dayton



Friday, January 04, 2002, 3:17:04 PM, you wrote:

SB> A friend of mine, heeding advice from this list, purchased a ZX-7 a
SB> little more than a year ago, and grabbed a Tamron zoom (28~200 maybe -
SB> don't recall right now) to use primarily for family snaps and a trip
SB> that he and his wife took last year.

SB> The lens is toast.  It doesn't work and he's been told that the
SB> "electronics" are fried, and that it'll cost $220.00 to repair.  Now,
SB> frankly, I don't give a rat's ass why the lens failed, or whether or not
SB> it can be repaired, or if the price is reasonable, or even if the lens
SB> doesn't have electronics.  It just frosts me that the enjoyment of his
SB> recent trip to Mexico was lessened by the lens breaking in some
SB> fashion.  He, and his wife, are very disappointed.  Sheesh!  all he
SB> wanted was a simple lens for a simple camera.

SB> Yeah, I know that things break, but the truth is, a lens should last
SB> longer than a year, and not cost a week's pay to repair.

SB> Good.  Now that that's off my chest, what's a good replacement lens? 
SB> Build quality is important, optical quality commensurate with family
SB> snaps and occasional 8x10, color print use.  Cole's like me - he likes
SB> to keep things a long time.  You should see his old Spotmatic and Super
SB> Tak 50/1.4 - sharp, clean, and working perfectly.  

SB> So, what does the list suggest for a quality consumer lens?  
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Cheap Crap Plastic Consumer Lenses

2002-01-04 Thread Joseph Tainter

Certainly the FA 24-90. If he likes a longer zoom range the Tamron
24-135 seems to be highly regarded (if he's not burned out on Tamron).

Joe
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Re: Back to MX operation (LX fault - advice please).

2002-01-04 Thread Rob Studdert

On 4 Jan 2002 at 19:02, Malcolm Smith wrote:

> At least it's a great camera, but I was hoping to use the LX more. The back of
> the LX (with data back) opened on its own three times with my third roll of film
> in it - so not expecting much out of that roll. As I have never had a problem
> like with any Pentax equipment, is this an expensive or cheap repair? OR, do I
> resort to putting a rubber band around it when it has film in it?
> 
> It has a couple of months warranty, but it means risking it to the post;
> some of you know I regard this as a lottery and a last resort in case I get
> scrap returned!

Hi Malcolm,

You might be able to get a new back (or perhaps bend your old one back into 
shape), that is assuming of course that the latch in the LX body isn't damaged? 
I would have a very close look at the latch as it engages to try and determine 
the cause of the fault.

Cheers,
Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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Re: PUG Commentary

2002-01-04 Thread Matjaz Osojnik

Hi,
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks,
Matjaz
> On the Beach, Matjaz Osojnik - it's a tie between this and Artur's for
my fave shot of the month. > really like the timing.
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Re: January PUG - unsolicited comments from Cotty

2002-01-04 Thread Matjaz Osojnik

Thanks for kind comment, Cotty. I absolutely agree with you. Without 
the other couple photograph loses its mood completely. BTW, I do all 
BW scans on the flatbed scanner from the prints. I get great prints from 
my lab but then a lot of the detail disappears due to the scanning.

Thanks again, Matjaz

> On the Beach
> Matjaz Osojnik
> That's a fine mono scan if ever I've seen one. A very interesting
> picture, the other couple make it for me. Blot them out with your
> thumb and see what I mean. I can feel the energy in that handful of
> sand. Crisp detail and good use of flash. This is what it's all about.
> Nice one again, Matjaz!
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Re: Spot Metering

2002-01-04 Thread Kristian Walsh

Hi,

Spot metering seems to be in the "enthusiast/professional" feature list 
for most manufacturers. The MZ-7 is an "entry level" camera, so it has 
picture modes instead. From a technical point of view, there is very 
little reason for the MZ-7 not to have spot metering, because it already 
has a multi-segment meter. The "spot" meter on the MZ-5n appears to just 
use the central meter segment, so it should be possible for the MZ-7 to 
do the same... but if it did, few would pay the extra for the MZ-5n ;-)

The spotmeter was the main reason I got an MZ-5n to go with my MZ-M: I 
seem to use the spotmeter more than I use the autofocus ;-)

The MZ-6 due soon seems to have spot metering (via the AE-lock button?), 
but you need to go to a custom function to enable it. The MZ-6 is set to 
be priced a little higher than the MZ-7, but less than the 5n.

--
Kristian

On Friday, January 4, 2002, at 05:26  pm, Chris Gligoris wrote:

> I am trying to figure out which Pentax bodies offer spot metering, 
> because I
> don't have an external spot meter and I do need an extra body, so I 
> thought
> I could combine these . From what I have found out (mainly from Bojidar
> Dimitrov's page), Pentax bodies can be divided into two categories: the
> bodies in which you can choose spot metering dependless of the exposure 
> mode
> and the ones that can use spot metering only in manual (or hypermanual)
> mode. So the two groups are as follows:
>
> First group
> Z1, Z1p
> Z5, Z5p
> MZS
> MZ3
> MZ5
> MZ5n
>
> Second group
> SF7/SF10
> Z10, Z10p
> Z20, Z20p
> Z50, Z50p
>
> Is the above correct or I am missing something here? (to be honest I 
> can't
> understand why the "flagship" of the SF series, the SFXn, doesn't offer 
> spot
> metering, and the same applies to the MZ7, which is one of the more 
> recent
> Pentax bodies...)
>
> Thanks in advance
> Chris
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Vs: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-04 Thread Raimo Korhonen

IIRC (and I may be wrong) it was the AF motors that failed - but there were only a 
couple of cases and it was some time ago - no new occurrences reported on the list. 
Looks like Pentax has got it right.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 18:37
Aihe: Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


>Raimo,
>
>Don't know for sure, but based on reports on the list here for the
>past several years, I would say that the PZ-1p is more reliable on
>motors.  There have been multiple reports of ZX-5's failing on film
>transport and I have yet to hear of any PZ-1p's.  My guess is that the
>ZX series motors are cheaper and lighter - has nothing to do with
>better reliability, only worse.
>
>
>Bruce Dayton
>
>
>
>Friday, January 04, 2002, 9:08:00 AM, you wrote:
>
>RK> Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But does it 
>really affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell. Maybe the MZ 
>series has less torque to improve
>RK> longevity, who knows?
>RK> Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had 3 motors. 
>Many cameras have only one.
>RK> All the best!
>RK> Raimo
>RK> Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
>
>RK> -Alkuperäinen viesti-
>RK> Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>RK> Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>RK> Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00
>RK> Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question
>
>
>>>Raimo,
>>>
>>>Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film?  It doesn't roll in and
>>>out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff.  I have
>>>several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's.  When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p
>>>tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch).  The ZX's
>>>however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk
>>>rolled film.  Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones.  So I
>>>am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better
>>>than the ZX's.  My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but
>>>not quite as strong as the PZ-1p.
>>>
>>>Hope this clears things up.
>>>
>>>
>>>Bruce Dayton
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Friday, January 4, 2002, at 11:51  AM, J. C. O'Connell wrote:

> I am convinced that you and I will both die before
> our vintage SCREWMOUNT Pentax gear does.

I like to think that I'll be leaving my beastly chunk of metal known as 
a Pentax 67 to my grandchildren.  It is, after all, not much more than a 
giant Spotmatic.

-Aaron
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Back to MX operation (LX fault - advice please).

2002-01-04 Thread Malcolm Smith

At least it's a great camera, but I was hoping to use the LX more. The back
of the LX (with data back) opened on its own three times with my third roll
of film in it - so not expecting much out of that roll. As I have never had
a problem like with any Pentax equipment, is this an expensive or cheap
repair? OR, do I resort to putting a rubber band around it when it has film
in it?

It has a couple of months warranty, but it means risking it to the post;
some of you know I regard this as a lottery and a last resort in case I get
scrap returned!

Thanks,

Malcolm
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FS: Several Pentax cameras and other items

2002-01-04 Thread Carlos Royo

These are some Pentax cameras I have for sale, because nowadays they see
very little use, and I want to sell them to fund other Pentax equipment
purchases.

This is the first lot:

Pentax SFX AF SLR body (like new) + Pentax soft case for the SFX + SMC
Pentax-F 35-70 mm. 3.5-4.5 (one of the best standard zooms Pentax has
made) + 2 SFX battery grips, one for 2CR5 lithium battery and other for
4 AA batteries (everything is mint, except that one of the plastic tabs
of the soft  case is missing, but it is perfectly functional)
Instruction manual (in Spanish) Everything for US$ 170.

Second lot:

Pentax MZ-5 AF SLR body + SMC Pentax-F 35-80 mm. 4-5.6 (a fine standard
zoom lens) + Fg battery pack (the body and battery pack are like new,
the lens is EX+ cosmetically; optically and mechanically it's perfect)
Instruction manual for the camera in Spanish, and in English for the
battery pack. Everything for US$ 250.


Shipping expenses will be paid by the buyer.

--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
--
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FS: M135/3.5 with matching case

2002-01-04 Thread Steven Knobbe

This lens has performed very well for me, but I recently bought a 
K135/2.5 so I no longer have much use for it. Everything is in great 
condition, so please contact me off list if you're interested. I can 
also provide pictures of the combo. I'm asking $60 plus shipping, but 
I'll entertain offers or trades.

Steve
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Re: Tripod Collar for FA* 300 F4.5

2002-01-04 Thread Fred

> Yes, someone who used to give input to the list had a tripod
> collar for this lens custom-machined by a metal shop, and even
> posted jpegs to this list of the completed product actually on the
> lens.   It looked good.  There was an offer to the list I think
> for about $75.00, if I recall correctly.  I did not have the lens
> at the time so i did not save the name, jpegs, or the contact.
> Perhaps someone else

I don't know anything about the custom tripod bracket that you are
referring to, Mark, but as a recent owner of the F* version of this
lens, I can see why an FA* 300/4.5 owner might want to have such a
tripod bracket.  (Similarly, I do wish that a tripod collar was
available for the M* and A* 300/4 lenses, but there just simply
isn't any "space" to attach a collar to on these lenses.)

I will say that the tripod collar on the F* 300/4.5 seems to be
somewhat of a mixed blessing.  Its size (at least to me) seems a bit
of overkill.  The design of the bracket in the A* 200/4 Macro lens
seems much nicer, both in size and in ease of mounting and
dismounting - the A* 200/4 Macro's collar nicely attaches and
detaches with a knob similar to its locking/unlocking knob, while
the F* 300/4.5's collar requires a coin to attach or detach it.

It does seem a shame to me that the M*/A* 300/4 and FA* 300/4.5
designs really should have been equipped with tripod collars.  While
the lenses are quite hand-holdable (and here I'm assuming that the
FA* lens is about the same as the F* lens) under bright conditions,
300mm is a lot of focal length to not have a tripod/monopod collar
instantly available when needed, in my opinion.

Fred
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Re: Help with AF280T manual settings

2002-01-04 Thread Rfsindg

Jim,

Settings are TTL, Red, Green, & no color (full manual). You know how TTL 
works...camera circuit controls flash. There is an 'in camera' sensor that measures 
the amount
of flash light falling on the film or shutter.  When it senses enough light, it tells 
the flash to shut off and saves all that electric energy your batteries have been 
whining to store in the flash's capacitor.

For cameras without TTL flash, you use manual settings. Red & Green use the electric 
EYE on the flash front. Flash's EYE measures the light, shuts off the flash, saving 
battery power again. See the red & green distance scales for approx. ranges.  Also 
remember to set the appropriate (red/green) aperture from the scale.  On the cameras 
using 'A' series lenses (or newer?), the AF280 will set the aperture for you.

The setting to the full right is full manual, no electric EYE involved.  The flash 
just dumps all of it's electric energy into the flash tube...and recycle time is very 
long.  In this case, you have to know the distance to the subject and use the distance 
scales to determine what the proper f-stop to set your lens at.  Perhaps useful, but a 
pain most of the time...  You change distance and you must adjust the aperture.

Regards,  Bob S.

> I bought my wife a AF280T to go with her MZ5n.
> So far so good when using it on TTL auto, and
> the bounce and swivel is brill, but can anybody
> from this knowledgable forum explain what the
> various manual settings are for?
> Thanks in advance.
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http://www.photoblink.com/imageview.asp?imageid=25818&cid=9&pag e=1

2002-01-04 Thread J. C. O'Connell

http://www.photoblink.com/imageview.asp?imageid=25818&cid=9&page=1

Is there some light falloff on the corners or is that just the
way the sky looked?
JCO
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Re: AF-500-FTZ Questions

2002-01-04 Thread Brendan

the AF500FTZ will not work in ttl mode on the LX, it
will be a manual flash only on non AF bodies 


--- Frank Knapik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello. I have a PZ-1p and an LX.  I am currently
> using the 280T. I am looking into possibly
> purchasing the AF-500-FTZ. Can this flash be used
> with the LX? My primary use for this flash will be
> weddings. I would appreciate any comments regarding
> this flash. Thank you.
> 
> Francis T. Knapik
> -

__ 
Send your holiday cheer with http://greetings.yahoo.ca
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RE: AF-500-FTZ Questions

2002-01-04 Thread John Tollefsrud

I have your same rig, along with both the 280T and the AF500FTZ. You can use
the 280T with both bodies, but the AF500 only with the PZ1P. The 500 is a
bit less rugged, twice I've cracked the decorative bezel (the one around the
face of the flash head, it's quite delicate) that I've had to repair with
ABS cement (works great, the cracks all but disappear). I use my gear
lightly, not for weddings or any other commercial work. If you have the
flash adapters for the 280T you have almost a functional equivalent for the
500, aside from the greater power. I just leave the wide adapter on my 280
all the time. I have been able to use the 280T on a body and use the 500
fired on the side, triggered by the flash detection feature of the 500, a
nice feature.

John Tollefsrud

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frank Knapik
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:02 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: AF-500-FTZ Questions
>
>
> Hello. I have a PZ-1p and an LX.  I am currently using the 280T.
> I am looking into possibly purchasing the AF-500-FTZ. Can this
> flash be used with the LX? My primary use for this flash will be
> weddings. I would appreciate any comments regarding this flash. Thank you.
>
> Francis T. Knapik
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Spot Metering

2002-01-04 Thread Chris Gligoris

I am trying to figure out which Pentax bodies offer spot metering, because I
don't have an external spot meter and I do need an extra body, so I thought
I could combine these . From what I have found out (mainly from Bojidar
Dimitrov's page), Pentax bodies can be divided into two categories: the
bodies in which you can choose spot metering dependless of the exposure mode
and the ones that can use spot metering only in manual (or hypermanual)
mode. So the two groups are as follows:

First group
Z1, Z1p
Z5, Z5p
MZS
MZ3
MZ5
MZ5n

Second group
SF7/SF10
Z10, Z10p
Z20, Z20p
Z50, Z50p

Is the above correct or I am missing something here? (to be honest I can't
understand why the "flagship" of the SF series, the SFXn, doesn't offer spot
metering, and the same applies to the MZ7, which is one of the more recent
Pentax bodies...)

Thanks in advance
Chris
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Re: Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-04 Thread Bruce Dayton

Raimo,

Don't know for sure, but based on reports on the list here for the
past several years, I would say that the PZ-1p is more reliable on
motors.  There have been multiple reports of ZX-5's failing on film
transport and I have yet to hear of any PZ-1p's.  My guess is that the
ZX series motors are cheaper and lighter - has nothing to do with
better reliability, only worse.


Bruce Dayton



Friday, January 04, 2002, 9:08:00 AM, you wrote:

RK> Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But does it 
really affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell. Maybe the MZ series 
has less torque to improve
RK> longevity, who knows?
RK> Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had 3 motors. 
Many cameras have only one.
RK> All the best!
RK> Raimo
RK> Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

RK> -Alkuperäinen viesti-
RK> Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
RK> Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
RK> Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00
RK> Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


>>Raimo,
>>
>>Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film?  It doesn't roll in and
>>out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff.  I have
>>several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's.  When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p
>>tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch).  The ZX's
>>however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk
>>rolled film.  Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones.  So I
>>am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better
>>than the ZX's.  My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but
>>not quite as strong as the PZ-1p.
>>
>>Hope this clears things up.
>>
>>
>>Bruce Dayton
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AF-500-FTZ Questions

2002-01-04 Thread Frank Knapik

Hello. I have a PZ-1p and an LX.  I am currently using the 280T. I am looking into 
possibly purchasing the AF-500-FTZ. Can this flash be used with the LX? My primary use 
for this flash will be weddings. I would appreciate any comments regarding this flash. 
Thank you.

Francis T. Knapik
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RE: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-04 Thread J. C. O'Connell

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Paul Stenquist
> Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 5:36 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: The Wonderful MX
>
>
> I like my MX's (2), but I have a closer attachment to my
> Spotmatics. I started
> working with M42 cameras thirty years ago, and I've come to
> identify with the
> old geezers. Mine are semi-retired (the LX is my main shooter),
> but I pull a
> Spotty out on occasion, because the SMC Tak glass is so good. I have three
> Spotmatic Fs and one Spotmatic motor drive, along with about a
> dozen SMC Tak
> lenses. I will keep them until I die.
> Paul
>
I am convinced that you and I will both die before
our vintage SCREWMOUNT Pentax gear does. Yes, sometimes
the auto apertures get lazy on a small percentage of
the lenses and sometimes the meter switch gets sticky
on some spotmatics ( I never said they were perfect ),
but in general they are VERY reliable lenses and bodies.
There are no electronics to go bad aside from the meters ( which
I dont use anyway).
JCO
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RE: Super Takumar 135/2.5

2002-01-04 Thread J. C. O'Connell

> Subject: Re: Super Takumar 135/2.5
> 
> 
> The lens you want will be marked "Super-Multicoated-Takumar". If 
> it doesn't
> and if the price is right it will be a good lens. However the multicoated
> with 6 elements (count 12 reflections) is among the best ever made.
> 
> Bob

FYI,

I will be putting one of the 6 element SMC Takumar
135mm F2.5 lenses on ebay this week. I agree, its
an outstanding lens, even wide open its nice. It's
less common than the earlier 5 element version in my
experience.

The 135mm F2.5 SMCP (k) lens is the same formula
I believe. But the screwmount is mechanically
better. The focus feel is so silky smooth on the
screwmount, not quite as nice on the K mount.
JCO 
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RE: choosing M42 body - finder brightness

2002-01-04 Thread J. C. O'Connell

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek

> 
> 2)JCO wrote:
> vvn> Try to find a mint Chinon CM-3 with motordrive. It has a nice finder
> vvn> and is all mechanical with DOF preview by pressing shutter button
> vvn> partially. I have two of these and a CE-3 which is autoexposure.
> vvn> JCO
> Thanks for tip, I was considering some of these. I think either a
> Chinon or another has a manual camera with "spotmeter" reading - a
> very narrow meter?

I am not sure what the metering pattern of the chinon CM3 is because
I dont use TTL metering with it ( or my spotmatics either ) I prefer
sunny F16 or use of my incident meter and then set exposure manually.



> The motordrive/winder would be nice, but I dislike
> the coupling of DOF/METER stopdown with shutter release. I meter far
> less times than I shoot, and that also means that with shutter ready
> for release, I would either have to look through dim finder, thus
> missing the action due to "darkness" maybe, or take longer to press
> the release, because there is additional mechanical leverage to
> stopdown the lens, thuis missing the action again.

I agree it's not ideal but i have found thats it's really easy
to focus first, depress shutter part way, compose, and fire.
Yes the final composition view is at shooting aperture but its
still easy to compose even with the dimmer view unless your
shooting at very small apertures. This is true partly due to
the very bright finder the camera offers. I cant remember if
the stop down/metering occurs or not when using a cable release.

> As I wrote, I
> dislike this style of shutter release, I prefer separate
> metering/stopdown switch, or no meter at all. But I will have a look
> at the chinon/others. They have interesting features.
>
 
Nice thing about the Chinon CM-3 & winder is they are not expensive 
when found, but they are somewhat hard to find. They are much
cheaper than the spotmatic motordrive and more compact. Good
build quality too. Whenever I need to shoot with motor and my
auto aperture SMCT lenses, I use this combo. When I only use the
SMCT 400 and 500 mm lenses which are manual aperture I just
use my MX/Motor with the mount adapter K. The MX has a very 
nice finder too.


> 3)Bob, is the SV finder really so better than the Spotmatics? I could
> easily live without a meter in the camera, I use incident for
> available light anyway, as it isn't fooled as easily as ttl, and 
> outside I can
> take spotmeter or guess the exposure with negs. How about comparing SV
> finder with early K series?
>

I find it hard to believe the SV finder is superior to the SL
or late Spotmatic finders. Also the SV has a crude shutter compared
to the spotmatics ( shorter lifespan too ). 

One option is to have a better screen installed in
the spotmatic. I have a SP1000 that has a split image
rangefinder screen that works great with lenses faster
than say, F5.6.  There is a guy on ebay who does spotmatic screen upgrades
for $60 opening bid.

JCO 
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Tripod Collar for FA* 300 F4.5

2002-01-04 Thread Lindamood, Mark

Yes, someone who used to give input to the list had a tripod collar for this
lens custom-machined by a metal shop, and even posted jpegs to this list of
the completed product actually on the lens.   It looked good.  There was an
offer to the list I think for about $75.00, if I recall correctly.  I did
not have the lens at the time so i did not save the name, jpegs, or the
contact.  Perhaps someone else
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RE: Yet another pic by MIR 20mm

2002-01-04 Thread Michel Adam

Two things:

1 - Love your PUG entry.

Climbing on the soap box:

2 - I am not so enthusiastic about photoblink.com.You might consider moving your
business from this site,
to a site that does not use scripting. For security, I have scripting turned off
for all untrusted site,
and VERY few sites in the trusted category. It saves having to deal with those
pop-up advertisings,
and 99.99% of the content out there has no need whatsoever, and I do mean NO
NEED, for scripts on a web page.
I believe that more and more surfers are taking this stance, and I hope that the
PUG site stays a 'script-free zone'.
I made an exception and turned scripting on briefly, but is it turned off again.
And photoblink.com is still not on
my list of trusted site.

Off the soap box for now...

BTW, nice picture of the ship. Reminds me to scan one I did of a pleasure craft,
with a 15mm. This will
be my next PUG entry...

Michel Adam


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Artur Ledóchowski
Sent: Friday, 04 January, 2002 06:19
To: PDML
Subject: Yet another pic by MIR 20mm


Hi,
For those interested in the performanceof the MC MIR 20-M 20mm f/3,5 heres
another example...
http://www.photoblink.com/imageview.asp?imageid=25818&cid=9&page=1
Greetz
Artur
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Vs: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question

2002-01-04 Thread Raimo Korhonen

Maybe the PZ-1p has more torquey motor(s) - it has more FPS, too. But does it really 
affect reliability - only time and prolonged use will tell. Maybe the MZ series has 
less torque to improve longevity, who knows?
Does the PZ-1p have one motor just for rewind? IIRC the Canon T-90 had 3 motors. Many 
cameras have only one.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Bruce Dayton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Vastaanottaja: Raimo Korhonen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Päivä: 04. tammikuuta 2002 1:00
Aihe: Re: Vs: Re[2]: MZ5 and MZ5n Z1p Question


>Raimo,
>
>Yes, but have you been using bulk rolled film?  It doesn't roll in and
>out of the cannister as smoothly as the manufacturers stuff.  I have
>several ZX's and had 2 PZ-1p's.  When winding and rewinding, the PZ-1p
>tends to pull without any change in motor speed (pitch).  The ZX's
>however, tend to go up and down quite noticeably during rewind on bulk
>rolled film.  Plastic cannisters are even worse than metal ones.  So I
>am saying that the power-torque (not speed) of the PZ-1p is better
>than the ZX's.  My current MZ-S's seem better than the ZX series, but
>not quite as strong as the PZ-1p.
>
>Hope this clears things up.
>
>
>Bruce Dayton
>
>
>
>Thursday, January 03, 2002, 2:06:57 PM, you wrote:
>
>RK> Whaddya mean - strength? Do you mean power output or durability? How do you 
>measure them? How many motors does the PZ-1p have?
>RK> I think that durability is a good thing to have but power (i.e. rewind speed) is 
>not that important. I had no rewind problems with MZ-5n and no one else has reported 
>these problems either. I
>RK> expect the MZ-S to be even better, of course. 
>RK> All the best!
>RK> Raimo
>RK> Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen
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RE: Abandoning the K-mount (WAS: Aperture Ring On MZ-S)

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

Both Minolta and Canon eliminated the aperture ring when they went to AF. I
think Nikon has recently eliminated it from some newer lenses.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pål Audun Jensen
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:28 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Abandoning the K-mount (WAS: Aperture Ring On MZ-S)


Lon wrote:


>One thing Pentax might be telling us with the MZ-S is that
>they have no intention of abandoning the K-mount.  As I understand
>it, Minolta or Canon or both have abandoned the aperature ring in
>their newest mounts.


There is no reason for Pentax abandoning their mount. Minolta, and
particularly Canon, was forced to do so due to a very small bayonet
diametre with no or few possibilities for electrical contacts and drive
shafts etc.
Removing the aperture ring from the lens is a way to save money.

Pål
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RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

Yeah that's why I'm hoarding the rest of the brick of Astia 120 I have in
th4e fridge. Guess I'll do the same for the 2 35mm rolls of MS 100/1000 I
have also.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Rob Brigham
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?


'My lab' was Fuji UK.  I sent them £2 extra for pushing it to 600, and
they sent me a credit note back saying payment was unneccesary!

I didnt realise Astia had gone too!  I have a couple of rolls which I
bought 6 months ago and havent tried yet.  I read it was good for
portraits.  I had better test it soon, and stock up if I like it!

They had better not touch provia, or reala!  This would really upset
me!!

> -Original Message-
> From: Aaron Reynolds [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Subject: Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?
>
> Rob B: You're lucky that your lab wasn't charging you for push
> processing on MS 100/1000.  'Round here, everyone charges.
>
> Personally, I'm more broken up about the loss of Astia.  I
> shot my last
> ten rolls of Astia 120 in North Carolina over Christmas.
> I'll certainly
> miss that film.
>
> -Aaron
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RE: Looking to buy a Pentax ZX-5n

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

No I still got it. I was going to put it on eBay next week.
Kent

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Marc Schlotthauer
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 9:09 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Looking to buy a Pentax ZX-5n


Hey Kent -

Did you ever sell that ZX-5n you had for sale?

Marc
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RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

I understand that Fuji has now stopped production of this film by the way.
However it will be available from current stocks for awhile.
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mike wilson
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 5:02 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?


Hi,

Sid Barras wrote:
>  I'm wondering what some experienced
> hands on this list might have to say about the benefits of this film,
where it might be at its best,
> its actual pushability (aside from what Fuji claims) and where I might not
want to use it.

This is rapidly becoming my E6 film of choice.  Acceptably
sharp, _very_ flexible and nice colours - not one of the modern
eyeburners which seem to be so popular at present.  Just the
usual reservations about E6 archivability.  It's "real" speed is
about 600ASA, apparently, and I never use it past 800.  You will
have to make your own experiments in that direction, I think.

The whole roll has to be axposed at the same speed, of course.
Found out the hard way that exposure @100 and development @800
produces a very nice high key effect.  Just a pity that the
subjects weren't suitable.

Seasonal greetings to all,

mike
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Yet another pic by MIR 20mm

2002-01-04 Thread Joseph Tainter

There seems to be pixelization in the larger image. The smaller is nice.

Joe
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Re: MZ-S Sighting

2002-01-04 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

Harald wrote


>One thing I couldn't figure out was how you would set the
>camera to prewind the film to a specific frame number. (read about it)
>Is it actually possible to use part of a roll of film, rewind it,
>and then later put it back in the camera, advance it to
>a frame number, and shoot the rest of the roll?


Yes. The feature has to be activated via custom function. Before you close 
the back when you have reloaded the film, press the green button and dial 
in the frame number with the main dial. Close the back and the camera goes 
to the next unexposed frame.


Pål
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Re: My eBay Pentax garage sale

2002-01-04 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

>But what is someone to do who has, say, a 135/1.8 PKA*, two of which fetched
>$1800 and $1,810 in mid 2001? I don't think any of us at PDML could come up
>with that kind of money without risking divorce. Should the seller ask $1,200
>and cheat himself of $600? Or should he say, "If anyone on the list wants it,
>it's yours for $1,800"?
>
>  I know that Pal grappled with this in recent months, but I can't recall how
>it turned out.
>



I sold it for $1400 including shipping to Japan.

Pål
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tripod collar (add-on?)

2002-01-04 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I'm sure this question arises time and again:

Does someone sell a tripod collar or ring that you can install on a telephoto such as 
the Pentax 300/4.5 FA? I figure that by buying the FA and adding a tripod collar, I 
can combine the F's tripod capability with the FA's MF/AF clutch and have it all.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/ .
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Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Friday, January 4, 2002, at 09:04  AM, Rob Brigham wrote:

> 'My lab' was Fuji UK.  I sent them £2 extra for pushing it to 600, and
> they sent me a credit note back saying payment was unneccesary!

Funny.  They probably have the same policy with Provia 1600 as well.

> They had better not touch provia, or reala!  This would really upset
> me!!

They won't.  Both sell very well.  Astia, on the other hand, was a dog 
in terms of sales, especially compared to Provia 100F.  I probably sold 
about 20 times more Provia than Astia.

-Aaron
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VS1 600/8 So;id Cat ebay alert

2002-01-04 Thread Steve Larson

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1315762324 

One that already ended for something to judge by:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1315423274


Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
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Re: PUG Commentary

2002-01-04 Thread Jaume Lahuerta

Thanks Jim, I am glad you liked the picture.

It's nice to have been mentioned in such a crowded and
high quality month.

Jaume

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi PDMLsters
> I normally like to choose just one shot to comment
> on but this month's PUG
> seemed very impressive so here are comments on a few
> pics that particularly
> caught my eye: 
> 
> Mother and Daughter, Jaume Lahuerta - simple,
> beautiful. I noticed how many
> great shots were taken with 50mm lens this month.
Send your FREE holiday greetings online!
http://greetings.yahoo.com
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Re: My homepage (at last!):))

2002-01-04 Thread mike wilson

Hej Artur,

Niema zdjecia 8-(  Mam Netscape 4.7 dla PC.

duzygruby michal

Artur Ledóchowski wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> So finally it happened:) After longlasting struggle with lack of free time I
> was able to create my personal site. It's here: http://encor.republika.pl
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Abandoning the K-mount (WAS: Aperture Ring On MZ-S)

2002-01-04 Thread Pål Audun Jensen

Lon wrote:


>One thing Pentax might be telling us with the MZ-S is that
>they have no intention of abandoning the K-mount.  As I understand
>it, Minolta or Canon or both have abandoned the aperature ring in
>their newest mounts.


There is no reason for Pentax abandoning their mount. Minolta, and 
particularly Canon, was forced to do so due to a very small bayonet 
diametre with no or few possibilities for electrical contacts and drive 
shafts etc.
Removing the aperture ring from the lens is a way to save money.

Pål
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RE: Can you believe this?

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

It's a macaw not a parrot. Big difference. :^)
Kent Gittings

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Stan Halpin
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 6:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Can you believe this?


Nice looking parrot!

stan

> From: "Bill Owens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2002 10:00:00 -0500
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Can you believe this?
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1315937391
> 
> Bill, KG4LOV
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Super A Problem

2002-01-04 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]

The Super A--I have three Super Programs--has an occasional habit of locking up in a 
certain way; it's happened to me three or four times in four years, and it may be what 
you are describing. I've read, and found, that the lockup can often be cured by 
whacking the back of your camera against your palm several times.

Trying good batteries is also a good idea, though if the batteries are low, I believe 
the top-panel LCD will blink  or 2000 when you turn the camera on.


[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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RE: choosing M42 body - finder brightness

2002-01-04 Thread Kent Gittings

Well since you have some CZJ lenses how about a Yashica 35 Electro-X? Decent
metering, plus a genuine MLU lever that you can switch on and off at will? I
got one as part of a telephoto/telescope purchase. I already had 2 KX bodies
with MLU I was using for astro cameras. So I kept this one to use also.
However it's a pain to have to switch the T-mount to M42 if I want to use
all my camera preloaded. I would judge the camera in either Mint- or EX+
condition. Comes with a Yashinon 5xmm/1.9 lens (can't remember if it is a 50
or 55 lens).
Kent Gittings


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek
Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 1:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: choosing M42 body - finder brightness


Hi,
   I ask the help of fellow screwy lovers (ehm), am in need of some
   screwy body... 

   I am interested in finding an M42 body for some of my screwmount CZJ
   lenses**1), which I love to use but don't because I dislike fiddling with
   adapters from K to 42.

   What I *need* is bright, high-magnification viewfinder with *bright*
   focusing screen! At *least* as bright as my Pentax K2DMD, preferably
   BETTER!**2)

   What is the best M42 camera based on that criterion? I will ask about
   other criteria later on.

   (considering either Spotmatic, Asahi SV, another pre-spotmatic
   body, or a 3rd party M42 body like from Cosina or Vivitar)

   Basic needs for the body: purely mechanical, no batteries (except meter
   if applicable), meter _not needed_, standard M42 autoaperture plate, DOF
   preview, rapid-return mirror, 1/1000 speed or higher is minimum,
   reliability, if ttl meter than it _needs_ to be able to meter
   easily with all M42 lenses **3). MLU would be a nice boon, either
   switchable or via selftimer. Quitness is a plus of course, it
   should be less noisy than a K2DMD _at minimum_. Ability to accept
   motordrive would be a nice boon too.


**1:
(the lenses are 1.8/80 and 2.8/20, Carl Zeiss Jena MC both, just in
   case there is some incompatibility with a body, although I doubt it -
after all
   CZ/Pentacon invented the M42 mount in the first place, although
   it gets "credited" as 'Pentax screwmount' nowadays- Phew!)

**2:
(compared to e.g. N. FM2n, the K2DMD's screen is almost full one stop
   dimmer, as tested with FM2N + 1.8/50 vs. K2 + 1.4/50, the FM2n was
   slightly better, even with almost 1 full stop dimmer lens), but
   still the K2 is way better than M42 Prakticas wrt screen. And the
   FM2n has almost about same magnification as the K2DMD finder, not
   like the AF cameras sporting low-low magnification but bright
   finders, which still are impossible to focus through manually

**3: that means the Praktica MTLx series or normal Spotmatic mode -
there is a switch separate from shutter release which 1st: stop down
the lens to selected aperture 2nd: activates the meter. NOT like on
the Zenit, where the switch is built-in into shutter release - that
makes releasing the shutter cumbersome and slow, just plain stupid.


Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek

P.S.: Kelvin, I will surely ask this on Club M42, but haven't
subscribed yet (too low on free time :( ). Could you please FW my post
there? Thank you a lot!
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OT:HTML/Web pages/Tudorials

2002-01-04 Thread David Brooks

In regards to the recent thread on web pages and
using html to set them up.When i signed up for the ISP i have now i 
can get 5mb of web space,but needed to use html.This
scared me off and i went to tripod as they have templates.
I recently went back to my isp as i still want a page i can
put pictures on for critique etc.Lo and behold they have a 
tutorial,which i went through,and printed out.Looks relatively
easy to build a simply page from what i see in the tutorial.
If any one wants to sample a quick run through go to
http://www.ca.inter/net
and navigate to the samples,i think under services.
I now hope to have a simple page set up soon to bug the 
list with.


Dave( from s3 to d1) Brooks


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Rob Brigham

'My lab' was Fuji UK.  I sent them £2 extra for pushing it to 600, and
they sent me a credit note back saying payment was unneccesary!

I didnt realise Astia had gone too!  I have a couple of rolls which I
bought 6 months ago and havent tried yet.  I read it was good for
portraits.  I had better test it soon, and stock up if I like it!

They had better not touch provia, or reala!  This would really upset
me!!

> -Original Message-
> From: Aaron Reynolds [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Subject: Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?
> 
> Rob B: You're lucky that your lab wasn't charging you for push 
> processing on MS 100/1000.  'Round here, everyone charges.
> 
> Personally, I'm more broken up about the loss of Astia.  I 
> shot my last 
> ten rolls of Astia 120 in North Carolina over Christmas.  
> I'll certainly 
> miss that film.
> 
> -Aaron
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RE: Kodak Royal Gold 100

2002-01-04 Thread Okipentax

I don't really think Royal Gold 100 is like Portra; in my opinion, the Portra 
is more natural, while the RG is a bit more punchy. But so much can depend on 
the printing, for sure. You might try Fuji Reala 100. It's has very fine 
grain and rich colors -- if that's what you want.

I have completely abandoned Porta (and, really, all Kodak films) in favor of 
Fuji for color work. The grain structure is superior, the sharpness better, 
and the color rendition superb. Until recently, all portraits I shot were on 
Kodak Portra 160. On the suggestion of a friend, I tried Fuji Portrait NPS 
160. When the 8x10s and 11x14s came back from the pro lab we use for such 
enlargements, my partner and I looked at the pictures and were amazed. The 
grain and tone was much more pleasing to our eyes than anything we had 
previously gotten from Portra 160.

For other wedding shots, we use a mixture of NPS 160, NPH 400, NPZ 800 and 
Superia 200 and Superia 400. Yes, the Superias are "consumer" films. But the 
rich colors and very fine grain work well for reception shots and other 
situations where a little boost is needed in color. The NPS/NPH are more 
natural, and the NPZ is a fine high-speed film.

== pete ==
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Re: 75mm f2.8 for Pentax 67, first impressions

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, January 3, 2002, at 08:45  AM, I wrote:

> I'm hoping to process some of the rolls I shot with this lens today or 
> tomorrow, so I'll save my observations on performance until I've seen 
> what it can do.

Well, I processed some last night, and I just had three rolls on the 
lightbox with the trusty ol' Pentax 5.5x loupe...

...and...

...and...

...wow.

I can't wait to scan some of these.  If I manage to get a scan done 
before I open, I'll put it up on a webpage for everyone's comments.

-Aaron
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

On Thursday, January 3, 2002, at 08:51  PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

> I don't use a divisor, and I've never encountered a moire pattern. I 
> have
> tried using a divisor, but I eventually learned that it accomplished
> nothing. I've made close to a thousand hi-res prints. I'm sure you've 
> made
> more Aaron, but have you worked extensively without a divisor?

Yes.  I worked without resampling the image up until I began to 
encounter patterning.  Like I said, it doesn't show up all that often, 
but when it does, it's ugly.  We've experienced the pattern now with 
both the 7500 and our old 1200.  Every time it has been with plaid or 
patterned shirts in group shots.  Also, and this may be important, most 
times it has been with files brought to us by our customers that they've 
sized to 300 dpi.  Bumping them up to 360 has eliminated the problem in 
every case.

I cannot recall having this problem at a resolution such as 750ppi.

> Congratulations on the 75/2.8 purchase. I anxiously await your
> appraisal. I picked up a late model 105/2.4 off ebay to add to my 
> 150/2.8.
> I think the 55/4 is my next buy, but I'd also like the 75. KEH doesn't
> have it yet, or at least they don't list it on their website. Do you 
> want
> to whisper how much you paid for it? :-)

$749 US.  Technically I still have money left over from the sale of my 
4x5 (I got $1500 CDN for it), though I don't know exactly where that 
money is right now. ;)

First look at the three rolls of film I processed yesterday was quite 
promising.  I'll have to get the big loupe on 'em today, or scan 'em 
up...or just process some more.  As is my habit, I process the rolls 
that I have the least hope for first.  I should get to some exciting 
ones today.

-Aaron
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Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Aaron Reynolds

MS 100/1000, if processed with no push or pull, is a 100 ISO film.  I've 
found it quite acceptable up to 800.  It'll do 1000 if you need it to, 
but it isn't great.

Rob B: You're lucky that your lab wasn't charging you for push 
processing on MS 100/1000.  'Round here, everyone charges.

We stopped stocking it when Provia 400F came out -- Provia 400F is a bit 
cheaper and is definitely better at 800.  Plus, 400 to 800 is only a one 
stop push, and we run one stop pushes a lot more frequently than three 
stop pushes, so as a lab we find Provia 400F more convenient.

Still, MS 100/1000 was a nice, versatile film.

Personally, I'm more broken up about the loss of Astia.  I shot my last 
ten rolls of Astia 120 in North Carolina over Christmas.  I'll certainly 
miss that film.

-Aaron
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R: R: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-04 Thread talampaya

I wrote
>I recently found the "Feet-Meter Conversion Table" sheet which came with
the
>SMCK 35 f/3.5 I bought together with my first MX. The seller wrote the
>number 9403440 on it. I wonder if it is the body number of the MX, as my
> second one has the very far number 4212445. Could it be plausible?

Shel answered:

> > Yes - recently there was a discussion here about MX serial numbers.
> > There were, it seems, two series, one with the 9etc numbers and one with
> > the 4etc numbers.

Daphne wrote:
>1) Chrome Pentax MX, first - series, #4361889 (...)
and
>2) Another Pentax MX, second series, #9256258

Sorry, I lost a lot of recent discussions . So I bought a *second* series
body in 1978 and a *first* series body at the end of 1980 (!).
Ciao
Fabio
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Re: Super Takumar 135/2.5

2002-01-04 Thread Paul Stenquist

It should say "Super Multi Coated" on the front of the lens.
Paul

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hi
>
> I saw this lens in near mint condition at a secondhand shop. I asked the staff 
>whether it is a SMC version. He said yes. But I cannot see any label for SMC on the 
>lens. Could you tell me the quality difference between SMC and without SMC versions?
>
> I would buy it if it is really a good lens. Please advise.
>
> Frankie
>
> --
>  Åwªï¨Ï¥ÎHongKong.com¶l¥ó¨t2Î
>  Thank you for using hongkong.com Email system
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-04 Thread Paul Stenquist

I've seen where resampling -- even with the best software -- tends to
start showing some degradation of extremely fine detail and sharp lines.
Can you scan at 4000  ppi? If so, you won't need to resample for prints
up to about 13 x 18, although 7x10 will probably be your optimum size
(at 500+ ppi). If you have to scan at 2000 ppi, try a two for one
resample. In other words, resample to double your pixel count.
Paul

William Robb wrote:

> - Original Message -
> From: "Paul Stenquist"
> Subject: Re: Digital printing questions
>
> > I'm replying to my own message, but I wanted to add that the
> critical
> > factor in sizing your file for printing is that you do not
> resample the
> > original scan.
>
> I understand that resampling changes the actual pixel count, ie:
> guesswork. I also understand, why, in theory, it is a bad thing.
> In practice, though, what problems can I run into?
> I talk about "reasonable" amounts of interpolation, not gross
> amounts.
> I realize this is really off topic, but I am starting to print
> images that I have made with my Pentax cameras with my inkjet
> printer, and there is such a wealth of knowledge on this list.
> Thank you
> William Robb
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Re: Digital printing questions

2002-01-04 Thread Paul Stenquist

I agree in regard to resampling the digital image. It seems the software has a
much easier time of it when you're trading one pixel for two rather than one
for two-and-a sixteenth . The only time I resample a digital image is when I
get one off the web that I want to "res up" for printing. I try never to change
the pixel count of images I scan.
   I've been womdering what a 7 x 10 of that 250 meg scan (that I mentioned
the other day ) would look like. At 11 x 14 it was 743 ppi. It should be well
over 1000 at 7x10. I'll have to give it a try.
Paul

Tom Rittenhouse wrote:

> Well, actually, I have never heard that it is all that importand to use a
> devisor of the printer dpi, what is reported to maintain the best image
> quality is resampling on a devisor. Like if you scanned at 2400 dpi and you
> need to reduce the size of the image resample at 1200, 800, or 600, etc.
> That is supposed to maintain edge sharpness, etc. the best. On the other
> hand resampling at odd vailues is supposed to reduce artifacts, etc. Etc:-)
>
> Ciao,
> graywolf
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2002 8:51 PM
> Subject: Re: Digital printing questions
>
> > I don't use a divisor, and I've never encountered a moire pattern. I have
> > tried using a divisor, but I eventually learned that it accomplished
> > nothing. I've made close to a thousand hi-res prints. I'm sure you've made
> > more Aaron, but have you worked extensively without a divisor? In order to
> > achieve the divisor at a given print size, you have to resample the image.
> > That is perhaps the most damaging thing one can do. The printer resolution
> > numbers don't correspond in any way to the ppi counts of digital files.
> > Congratulations on the 75/2.8 purchase. I anxiously await your
> > appraisal. I picked up a late model 105/2.4 off ebay to add to my 150/2.8.
> > I think the 55/4 is my next buy, but I'd also like the 75. KEH doesn't
> > have it yet, or at least they don't list it on their website. Do you want
> > to whisper how much you paid for it? :-)
> > Paul
> > Aaron Reynolds wrote:
> >
> > > The reason one uses a divisor of the printer's resolution is to avoid
> > > moire patterns in finely detailed objects.  Nothing like having a plaid
> > > shirt with a different pattern running through it...
> > >
> > > -Aaron
> > > -
> > > This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List.  To unsubscribe,
> > > go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
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Re: Which lense to take?

2002-01-04 Thread Leon Altoff

On Thu, 3 Jan 2002 13:33:00 +1100, Paul Jones wrote:

>Hi,
>
>Mid way through january i'm going on a road trip for two weeks or so. I've

>The primes i have to choose from are:
>24/2, 35/2.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2.8 Macro
>Zooms to choose from are:
>FA28-70/4 and F70-210
>
>At the moment i'm leaning towards taking the 24/2, 50/1.4 and both zooms.
>Even when i take all this i'll probaly only use half of it.

It really all depends on what you can easily carry, or what you are
willing to carry.  I'll happily carry a Nova 4 with me everywhere,
though most of the time I use a Nova 2.

I generally don't go anywhere without a lens that will do atleast half
life size and one atleast 24mm wide.  A tripod is useful too (and easy
to carry if you have your car with you).

I'd personally take the 24 50 and 100 (which is close to what I
normally carry anyway).  If it's a photo holiday take 2 bodies, if it's
just a holiday, just take the MZ-S.

I do tend to be a bit paranoid since we were broken into and keep all
excess gear in a bank safe deposit box if we are going to be away
overnight or longer (Yes, it's a BIG safe deposit box).


 Leon

http://www.bluering.org.au
http://www.bluering.org.au/leon
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Re: The Wonderful MX

2002-01-04 Thread Paul Stenquist

I like my MX's (2), but I have a closer attachment to my Spotmatics. I started
working with M42 cameras thirty years ago, and I've come to identify with the
old geezers. Mine are semi-retired (the LX is my main shooter), but I pull a
Spotty out on occasion, because the SMC Tak glass is so good. I have three
Spotmatic Fs and one Spotmatic motor drive, along with about a dozen SMC Tak
lenses. I will keep them until I die.
Paul

wendy beard wrote:

> At 19:55 3-1-2002 -0500, Frank wrote:
>
> >No, I'll keep using the Spotmatics until they die.  But one can't have too
> >many cameras, can one?  ;-)
>
> No, one certainly can't have too many - especially MX's!
> I've just taken delivery of MX #4. I couldn't resist.
>
> Wendy
>
> ---
> Wendy Beard
> Ottawa, Canada
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> home page http://www.beard-redfern.com
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R: January PUG - unsolicited comments from Cotty

2002-01-04 Thread talampaya

> Green, Red, Yellow and Blue
> Facit


*Gosh!* my second Cotty's nomination !!!

> After several minute's looking, I decided this picture reminded me of an
> oil painting.

now I've something to tell my baby when he will be able to understand
(four months old now)

> The scan has produced a very saturated image, with shadows
> disappearing into emptiness. I love it! Just like it is.

The slide is more satured than the scanned image and with an emerald
green water I wasn't able to reproduce with the scan.

Thank you

Fabio
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Re: Super Takumar 135/2.5

2002-01-04 Thread Bob Rapp

The lens you want will be marked "Super-Multicoated-Takumar". If it doesn't
and if the price is right it will be a good lens. However the multicoated
with 6 elements (count 12 reflections) is among the best ever made.

Bob
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2002 4:44 PM
Subject: Super Takumar 135/2.5


Hi

I saw this lens in near mint condition at a secondhand shop. I asked the
staff whether it is a SMC version. He said yes. But I cannot see any label
for SMC on the lens. Could you tell me the quality difference between SMC
and without SMC versions?

I would buy it if it is really a good lens. Please advise.

Frankie


--
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RE: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?

2002-01-04 Thread Rob Brigham

Shame as it has been discontinued!

I was advised to shoot at 640 rather than 800 which is pushing it a bit.
I didnt verify this as I only shot two rolls but it performed well at
640.  I think Fuji havce decided that Provia 400F is so good, and pushes
so well to 800 that they didnt need this film anymore.  Pity as you have
to pay extra to push provia to 800, but 100/1000 was pushed/pulled for
free.

> -Original Message-
> From: mike wilson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: 04 January 2002 10:02
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: OT: Any recommendations for Fuji MS 100/1000 film?
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Sid Barras wrote:
> >  I'm wondering what some experienced
> > hands on this list might have to say about the benefits of 
> this film, where it might be at its best,
> > its actual pushability (aside from what Fuji claims) and 
> where I might not want to use it.
> 
> This is rapidly becoming my E6 film of choice.  Acceptably
> sharp, _very_ flexible and nice colours - not one of the modern
> eyeburners which seem to be so popular at present.  Just the
> usual reservations about E6 archivability.  It's "real" speed is
> about 600ASA, apparently, and I never use it past 800.  You will
> have to make your own experiments in that direction, I think.
> 
> The whole roll has to be axposed at the same speed, of course. 
> Found out the hard way that exposure @100 and development @800
> produces a very nice high key effect.  Just a pity that the
> subjects weren't suitable.
> 
> Seasonal greetings to all,
> 
> mike
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Re: choosing M42 body - finder brightness

2002-01-04 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

few replies below:

1)But Paul, that's exactly opposite my need, you didn't read carefully
;-) I stated I need _bright_ finder, and using stopdown
viewing/focusing, it is not exactly bright... I did that for some time
when my only wideangle was 2.8/20 screwmount CZJ on K2DMD via adapter,
and it's not nice much. At least focusing could be done by DOF when
enough light to stop down to 5.6, but I didn't like it. Also, flash
work is almost impossible.

2)JCO wrote:
vvn> Try to find a mint Chinon CM-3 with motordrive. It has a nice finder
vvn> and is all mechanical with DOF preview by pressing shutter button
vvn> partially. I have two of these and a CE-3 which is autoexposure.
vvn> JCO
Thanks for tip, I was considering some of these. I think either a
Chinon or another has a manual camera with "spotmeter" reading - a
very narrow meter? The motordrive/winder would be nice, but I dislike
the coupling of DOF/METER stopdown with shutter release. I meter far
less times than I shoot, and that also means that with shutter ready
for release, I would either have to look through dim finder, thus
missing the action due to "darkness" maybe, or take longer to press
the release, because there is additional mechanical leverage to
stopdown the lens, thuis missing the action again. As I wrote, I
dislike this style of shutter release, I prefer separate
metering/stopdown switch, or no meter at all. But I will have a look
at the chinon/others. They have interesting features.

3)Bob, is the SV finder really so better than the Spotmatics? I could
easily live without a meter in the camera, I use incident for
available light anyway, as it isn't fooled as easily as ttl, and outside I can
take spotmeter or guess the exposure with negs. How about comparing SV
finder with early K series?

Thank you all.

  Good light
   Frantisek
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