blue fringing
After looking at some shots from the new Sony DSC-R1 the complete absence of blue/purple fringing is shocking. Why do I see blue fringing with all my lenses on high contrast borders (like trees against a bright sky). Chromatic aberration is different and can be corrected with Adobe RAW. Is the CCD to blame? I really hope Pentax or Samsung inserts a CMOS in de D2. Regards
SV: 1.7 XAF SMC Pentax adapter
I paid 67 GP (118 USD) for mine, including shipping from the UK to Denmark in September 2004. The best spend 100 USD for photographic gear ever, I guess (or at least next to my K 2.5/135mm, for which I paid about the same). Regards Jens Jens Bladt http://www.jensbladt.dk -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: David Savage [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 5. februar 2006 02:48 Til: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Emne: Re: 1.7 XAF SMC Pentax adapter On 2/5/06, Kenneth Waller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was thinking about specifically using it on my 600mm FA 300mm FA Curious as to what they cost nowadays. I got mine late last year new for AU$185 (approx. US$140). Dave Kenneth Waller
Re: Spherical K15mm 3.5 shots...
I LOVE the cat, really ;) And BTW I thought I was the one with the more cluttered house in universe but I see I'm not the only one ;) No harm intended ! -- Thibouille -- *ist-D,Z1,SFXn,SuperA,KX,MX, P30t and KR-10x ...
Re: 1.7 XAF SMC Pentax adapter
Just rememeber it will onlt allow center narrow AF even with moder bodies and even if used with AF lenses. -- Thibouille -- *ist-D,Z1,SFXn,SuperA,KX,MX, P30t and KR-10x ...
RE: ot back in the saddle again
that must have been hard to swallow. Glad to hear you're ok again. -- Cheers, Bob -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Epiglottitis with Laryngitis and I got Endotracheal intubation as the treatment One long week.
Re: OT: Prayer for my Daughter
On 2/5/06, keith_w [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Up to you, Boris, but the facts are, the only thing that reliably kills a virus in the human body is heat. That's why fevers are best tolerated if at all possible, and they stay reasonably low. A relatively low grade fever (102-103° F) will make the virus count plummet. Keep it long enough (a few days) and the virii die out! There are other medicines, but they are harmful to the body. A fever is the body's way of killing viruses, and it works! Simple fact. keith It's amazing the cr...er...stuff you pick up here. g Dave
Re: February 2006 Comments
Den 5. feb. 2006 kl. 04.40 skrev Daniel J. Matyola: A quick review of my reactions to the PUG entries for February: Undone by Dag Thrane: Another one of my favorites. I love thecolor, and I love the composition, but the needle really makes this amemorable photograph. Thanks Daniel! DagT
Whatever on virus and such (Was OT: Prayer...)
Hi guys, I am just - for whatever it is worth - suggesting another subject line in case this thread willl turn into a new direction. The original thread and subject line is such a very personal and delicate matter, which I think we should leave at that (that is to say that we'd respectfully leave it as initially intended by Jay). Thanks, Lasse From: David Savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 12:32 PM Subject: Re: OT: Prayer for my Daughter On 2/5/06, keith_w [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Up to you, Boris, but the facts are, the only thing that reliably kills a virus in the human body is heat. That's why fevers are best tolerated if at all possible, and they stay reasonably low. A relatively low grade fever (102-103° F) will make the virus count plummet. Keep it long enough (a few days) and the virii die out! There are other medicines, but they are harmful to the body. A fever is the body's way of killing viruses, and it works! Simple fact. keith It's amazing the cr...er...stuff you pick up here. g Dave
istDS or DS2
It's about time to replace the DS I sold a few months ago. There's a good deal available on a used DS that has me interested. Does the latest firmware update bring the DS up to DS2 specs and features? What features are different between the DS and the DS2? Does anyone know of a good deal on a new istDS? Anyone on the list have a lightly used DS they'd like to sell? Shel
Re: istDS or DS2
Shel Belinkoff wrote: It's about time to replace the DS I sold a few months ago. There's a good deal available on a used DS that has me interested. Does the latest firmware update bring the DS up to DS2 specs and features? What features are different between the DS and the DS2? Does anyone know of a good deal on a new istDS? Anyone on the list have a lightly used DS they'd like to sell? Shel The firmware update does pretty much everything except make the LCD screen bigger. IOW, the DS isn't that much different from the DS2. That's both good, and bad. D -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.iinet.net.au/~derbyc
Re: From Cottyland
Cotty wrote: On 4/2/06, keith_w, discombobulated, unleashed: You in yet? I like being in, but I'm mostly out. Yes. Well. Don't we all! And so am I. g By the way, that cat's in the grooming position. Don't have to tell you, but when they get like that, they're comfortable and at peace with their surroundings. Cheers, Cotty Glad you're able to still laugh at it all. Best to ya! keith
Re: From Cottyland
keith_w wrote: Yes. Well. Don't we all! And so am I. g By the way, that cat's in the grooming position. Don't have to tell you, but when they get like that, they're comfortable and at peace with their surroundings. Grooming. That is a great term. And yes, you would be at peace with the world. D -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.iinet.net.au/~derbyc
RE: Spherical K15mm 3.5 shots...
Cotty wrote: http://www.cottysnaps.com/Greystones/february4.html Lovely house - and well done to the family in doing so much 'conversion of packing to home' in so little time! Malcolm
Re: blue fringing
Is the blue fringe all around the image or on one side only. Don Toine Kuiper wrote: After looking at some shots from the new Sony DSC-R1 the complete absence of blue/purple fringing is shocking. Why do I see blue fringing with all my lenses on high contrast borders (like trees against a bright sky). Chromatic aberration is different and can be corrected with Adobe RAW. Is the CCD to blame? I really hope Pentax or Samsung inserts a CMOS in de D2. Regards -- Dr E D F Williams __ http://www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/index.htm http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams See feature: The Cement Company from Hell Updated: Added Print Gallery - 16 11 2005
RE: blue fringing
I believe blue fringing is in fact chromatic aberrations (CA). Take a look: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydscr1/page18.asp The problem is at its greatest when using wide angles wide open. Regards Jens http://www.jensbladt.dk -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Toine Kuiper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 5. februar 2006 09:51 Til: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Emne: blue fringing After looking at some shots from the new Sony DSC-R1 the complete absence of blue/purple fringing is shocking. Why do I see blue fringing with all my lenses on high contrast borders (like trees against a bright sky). Chromatic aberration is different and can be corrected with Adobe RAW. Is the CCD to blame? I really hope Pentax or Samsung inserts a CMOS in de D2. Regards
Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
William Robb wrote: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I thought that was what kept happening during the NPW @ GFM.
Re: OT: 645 - Pentax compeditive
Jens Bladt wrote: I have been thinking of getting MF 645 equipment that will allow the use of lenses for Pentacon Six/Exakta 66/Kiev 60 through P6-adapter. I have found that Pentax is quite competitive economically, A Mamiya 645 1000s with AE prism is about the same price as a Pentax 645 = 350 USD in used condition. The Pentax 645 will then have (what the Mamiya doesn't): Winder, grip, exchangeable film cassettes, TTL-Flash option, optional Programed AE. The Mamiya 645 will have (what the Pentax doesn't): Exchangeable viewfinder. The Mamiya is a durable all steel design and very versatile (customizeable) The Pentax is a modern camera concept. I know this isn't quite fair, because the Mamiya 645 1000s is an older camera concept. I perhpas should have used the Mamiya 645 Super version. But in my case (MF)is seems a feasible comparison. I thought this was quite interesting - at least for MF and film users :-) Regards Jens Jens Bladt http://www.jensbladt.dk We've chatted offline about this, but I might add a few things about the P645 and the M645. I agree that comparing the 1000s with the P645 isn't entirely fair, but in the 2nd hand market, I've seen the P645 go for much cheaper (in Oz at least) even though the P645 is a more recent camera . The Mamiya Super is probably a better comparison, but I don't see them on the market as much. So I'd have to say the Pentax is better value. I've already mentioned I like the ergonomics of the P645 a whole lot more. Plus, I prefer the view in the P645 from the M645. Secret admission. I'm starting to fall in love with quirky Russian opticsArsat, Horizon, Zenitar. I hope someone will slap me if I buy a lomo. D -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.iinet.net.au/~derbyc
Re: February 2006 Comments
Hi Daniel, Don't make me blush :-) On Sat, 4 Feb 2006 22:40:53 -0500, Daniel J. Matyola wrote: A quick review of my reactions to the PUG entries for February: Paris, from the Ground up by Jan van Wijk:: Wonderful! Myfavorite of this month's gallery. A very effective shot, and it trulyfits the theme for the month. I was in Paris at about the same time,and tried to take a similar shot, but unbalanced, and in the day time,featuring the iron work. Jan's shot is much more effective. Regards, JvW -- Jan van Wijk; http://www.dfsee.com/gallery
Flash and *ist D
Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. Don -- Dr E D F Williams __ http://www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/index.htm http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams See feature: The Cement Company from Hell Updated: Added Print Gallery - 16 11 2005
Re: blue fringing
Not only CA. You have got effects from sensor blooming and scattering in the anti-aliasing filter and other elements (blue light is scattered most). Also CA can come in two types, longitudinal and lateral. These effects are more or less easily removed in PS. DagT Den 5. feb. 2006 kl. 12.30 skrev Jens Bladt: I believe blue fringing is in fact chromatic aberrations (CA). Take a look: http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydscr1/page18.asp The problem is at its greatest when using wide angles wide open. Regards Jens http://www.jensbladt.dk -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Toine Kuiper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 5. februar 2006 09:51 Til: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Emne: blue fringing After looking at some shots from the new Sony DSC-R1 the complete absence of blue/purple fringing is shocking. Why do I see blue fringing with all my lenses on high contrast borders (like trees against a bright sky). Chromatic aberration is different and can be corrected with Adobe RAW. Is the CCD to blame? I really hope Pentax or Samsung inserts a CMOS in de D2. Regards
Re: question about chromes
Since it's artwork, I assume that you're looking for accurate color reproduction. My favorite chrome is the Elite Extra Color but it's not the right film for your job. I too think Kodachrome might be the right choice but processing is a pain. You might also consider E100G: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/colorReversalIndex.jhtml?id=0.1.22.14.9lc=en It's not oversaturated and has a neutral color balance. It sounds like a very interesting assignment. Tom Reese -- Original message -- From: Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED] HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? ann
Re: Flash and *ist D
Don, The flash on the microscope may have too high a voltage for the ist D. Once it flashes it may be locking up the camera. Try measuring the voltage or disconnecting the flash flash after each exposure. You may not want to keep doing this too often in case it permanently damages the camera. A solution to this could be using a slave unit on the microscope and triggering it with the Vivitar flash. Leon http://www.bluering.org.au http://www.bluering.org.au/leon Don Williams wrote: Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. Don
OT:(Sort of) Panoramas on film
Panoramas are still available for film users: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladt/18480353/ I came across this photograph made from three shots done with the MZ-S a few years ago. Regards Jens Bladt http://www.jensbladt.dk
Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
William Robb put forth the proposition: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I suggest that in September 2008, we all decend upon Kodachrome Basin State Park and just hang out for a few days. Seconded. Tom (Have Camera Will Travel) Reese
Re: question about chromes
Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? I go with Provia 100F -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
Good idea, so where is Kodachrome Basin? Regards, Bob S. On 2/5/06, Tom Reese [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb put forth the proposition: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I suggest that in September 2008, we all decend upon Kodachrome Basin State Park and just hang out for a few days. Seconded. Tom (Have Camera Will Travel) Reese
RE: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
Utah http://www.go-utah.com/Kodachrome-Basin-State-Park Don -Original Message- From: Bob Sullivan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:31 AM To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Subject: Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open Good idea, so where is Kodachrome Basin? Regards, Bob S. On 2/5/06, Tom Reese [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb put forth the proposition: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I suggest that in September 2008, we all decend upon Kodachrome Basin State Park and just hang out for a few days. Seconded. Tom (Have Camera Will Travel) Reese
Re: Flash and *ist D
Hi Leon, The flash, which is made from a Polaroid unit and a single straight flash tube about 50mm long, works very well as a flash. But the tube, which lies across the beam, causes diffraction in the images. In other words it doesn't work very well in the microscope. I intend to use a beam splitter and direct light from a standard flash into the path. I may even be able to use TTL if I can find a connector that will satisfy the camera. So the problem now becomes -- How can I trigger the Vivitar on the table about 24 away from the camera and what extension lead do I need? The camera is on the top of a monocular mount behind the binocular and using one flash to trigger another would be very dangerous and unstable. I can imagine the camera up on top of this 'Xmas Tree' with a flash in the shoe. Something would give very soon. It would get in the way of my head in any case. Don Leon Altoff wrote: Don, The flash on the microscope may have too high a voltage for the ist D. Once it flashes it may be locking up the camera. Try measuring the voltage or disconnecting the flash flash after each exposure. You may not want to keep doing this too often in case it permanently damages the camera. A solution to this could be using a slave unit on the microscope and triggering it with the Vivitar flash. Leon http://www.bluering.org.au http://www.bluering.org.au/leon Don Williams wrote: Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. Don -- Dr E D F Williams __ http://www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/index.htm http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams See feature: The Cement Company from Hell Updated: Added Print Gallery - 16 11 2005
RE: Flash and *ist D
Don, The camera must be set to perform a preflash - as in AUTO flash or other auto modes like red-eye reduction. I'm sure it's possible to use a Standard Flash Mode Use the second flash mode, described in the instruction/manual page 50. The manual is her if you do not have one: http://www.pentaximaging.com/files/manual/istDS_repl_061405_web.pdf Regards Jens Bladt http://www.jensbladt.dk -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Don Williams [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 5. februar 2006 13:38 Til: pdml Emne: Flash and *ist D Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. Don -- Dr E D F Williams __ http://www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/index.htm http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams See feature: The Cement Company from Hell Updated: Added Print Gallery - 16 11 2005
Re: question about chromes
Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? You want the most neutral and accurate rendering. None of the Ektachromes will give you that. In my testing the most neutral and accurate E-6 film was the recently discontinued Agfachrome RSX 100. There may still be dealers with stock, though. Close, but not quite as neutral, is Fuji Astia 100. All of the other Fuji chrome films exaggerate color. Bob
Re: Flash and *ist D
- Original Message - From: Don Williams Subject: Flash and *ist D Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. It may not be anything you are doing wrong. The istD seems very sensitive to the polarity of the PC cable. I presume you are plugging into the flash socket, and not using a shoe adaptor? If you can, reverse the plug where the cable plugs into the flash on the microscope. William Robb
Postcardware ...
Just a while ago I found plug-in for Photoshop that looked interesting. The author of the plug-in has an interesting registration option. Here's the URL so you can see the Grids plug-in. Click on Register to see the registration scheme. http://www.users.cloud9.net/~gparet/photoshop/#grid Shel
Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
- Original Message - From: Paul Stenquist Subject: Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open Well then, I'll have to try to make it two in a row. Bill, same with me. For me, the best part of GFM was meeting people for real that I had been getting to know on list. I had met Tom Cakalic and his family, and had a wonderful time, prior to that, I had not met in person, another PDML'r. I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I suggest that in September 2008, we all decend upon Kodachrome Basin State Park and just hang out for a few days. Never been to Utah. Sounds good. Dave William Robb
Re: OT:(Sort of) Panoramas on film
There is no reason for film users not to. Here's one of mine from way back when: http://www.arach.net.au/~savage/PESO/peso_011.htm Not a pano as such. Dave S On 2/5/06, Jens Bladt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Panoramas are still available for film users: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladt/18480353/ I came across this photograph made from three shots done with the MZ-S a few years ago. Regards Jens Bladt http://www.jensbladt.dk
Re: blue fringing
The blue fringing is everywhere in the image (left right and center). Only on high contrast transitions. I also suspect the antlialias filter like DagT mentioned. A tree branch has blue fringing on all sides. On 2/5/06, Don Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is the blue fringe all around the image or on one side only. Don
Re: Cool things I learned today.
William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I discovered that the built in profiles that Epson provides work pretty darned well. It's true. I discovered that if the printer colour management is on, colour management in Photoshop should be off. Man, I remember when I discovered that. I found it amazing that I hadn't read anywhere that if the printer colour management is on, colour management in Photoshop should be off. That is, stated as clearly and concisely as you just did. -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com Hummm. Wonder if i should try an Epson printer. The Canon's,as far as i can see, don't have colour management in detail as the Epsons. Plus the added benifit of proper BW inks. Any suggestions, models to start looking. Keep in mind i would sell a lot from the printer, so a good dpi would be nice and ability to do a nice BW. Dave
Re: I'm an idiot
Mike Wilson: AFAIR, the Z1-p does not use IR for film measurement. and Dave Brooks: My GFM roll of HIE was shot using my PZ-1, 28-105 and #25 Red.. So there is hope for me yet. Thanks. I'll probably process that roll next week. Cheers, Gautam Here is a link to some of the GFM shots from 2005. Scrool down about 1/2 way on the first page. http://photobucket.com/albums/v408/divad_b/ Dave David J Brooks Equine Photography in York Region www.caughtinmotion.com Pentax istD, Nikon D2H(back from service, AGAIN)
North America meet,was: GFM Nature Photography
William Robb wrote: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. Then you wrote: I thought that was what kept happening during the NPW @ GFM. Yes but there we have a purpose in life. :-) Dave David J Brooks Equine Photography in York Region www.caughtinmotion.com Pentax istD, Nikon D2H D1 and soon, D200 or some Canon produce that works better than the POC D2H.
Re: February 2006 Comments
A quick review of my reactions to the PUG entries for February: Fallen Posts by David J Brooks: Nice use of the logs to lead the eye to the road. Thank you for the kind words. Dave
Re: 1.7 XAF SMC Pentax adapter
Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote: On Sat, 4 Feb 2006, John Whittingham wrote: Would it be preferable to set the lens at infinity or a shorter distance in your opinion. The manual states that you may get vignetting if not at infinity. But the T/C does not have a great focussing range (trade-off for speed), so some times you are forced to pre-focus (if approximately). Kostas I'm not so sure that it is a tradeoff as much as a need to adhere to optical rules. But, as you imply and nobody else has mentioned specifically, it is very fast at focusing. mike
Re: question about chromes
In a message dated 2/5/2006 5:28:29 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? I go with Provia 100F -- Mark Roberts == Yeah. Marnie aka Doe
Re: question about chromes
In a message dated 2/5/2006 5:28:29 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? I go with Provia 100F -- Mark Roberts == Yeah. Marnie aka Doe Not sure if it is still made, as my local Pro lab stocks very little film now, but i liked the Kodak 100VS.Provia 100f was my next choice. Sometimes participant Dave Chang-Sang uses the Kodak aswell. Dave
Re: 1.7 XAF SMC Pentax adapter
On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, mike wilson wrote: Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote: The manual states that you may get vignetting if not at infinity. But the T/C does not have a great focussing range (trade-off for speed), so some times you are forced to pre-focus (if approximately). I'm not so sure that it is a tradeoff as much as a need to adhere to optical rules. But, as you imply and nobody else has mentioned specifically, it is very fast at focusing. Ah, misunderstanding, the ambiguity of speed strikes again (though your statement for AF speed is in agreement with my findings). What I meant was that in order to have a wider focus range it would have to be a (say) 2x converter, so as to accommodate more movement. 2x converter=2 stop loss. Am I right? Kostas
Re: blue fringing
On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Toine Kuiper wrote: The blue fringing is everywhere in the image (left right and center). Only on high contrast transitions. I also suspect the antlialias filter like DagT mentioned. So why did you conclude that it's the CCD technology to blame and CMOS would be the solution? Don't they have antialias filters? Kostas
OT Radio Fundraiser last Night
Went to the fund raiser last night for the proposed communty radio staion. Local talent ( 10 performes) and local photographer.LOL About 100 braved poor weather and attended. The local talent is very good and one young lady, about 16, is going to audition for Canadian Idol. From what i heard last night, and on American Idol lately,she should be a shoe-in. Lovely voice. Shot about 235 Raw/Jpegs using the newly serviced D2H. Heh it even lasted one whole shoot.:-) Local paper wants some, the bands want some and the radio wants some. Just looking quickly at the downlodas on the ibook and they all look pretty good. Maybe time to branch out.g Dave David J Brooks Equine Photography in York Region www.caughtinmotion.com Pentax istD, Nikon D2H
Re: question about chromes
Ann Sanfedele wrote: HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... what sort of artwork and what will they be doing with the results? I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? ann
Re: This is new for mew
Unfortunately the Oly 4/3rds bodies also have the singularily worst viewfinders on the market (Except the old E-1 which is quite acceptable). -Adam Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote: The Oly 4/3 SLRs have the shortest mount register of any SLR on the market ... 38.67mm. I haven't seen one yet, but it's short enough that an adapter could be made even for Canon FL/FD series lenses (42.00mm). That would open up a lot of now ancient and very cheap but excellent lenses if someone made the adapter. The adaptation possibility for Pentax K-mount makes the possibility of an Olympus, or Panasonic, 4/3 camera an intriguing idea. I am pretty sure that Pentax will eventually come out with their D followon, probably with a 10mpixel sensor, but if they don't the possibility exists that a Panasonic 4/3 SLR body with built in image stabilization could be useful. Godfrey
Re: North America meet,was: GFM Nature Photography
Hey, I'd be up for a gathering in this area outside of GFM itself... not sure how much I'd enjoy a competition... Comparing my photos to those of others might make me look like the village idiot. :) --- Dave Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb wrote: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. Then you wrote: I thought that was what kept happening during the NPW @ GFM. Yes but there we have a purpose in life. :-) Dave David J Brooks Equine Photography in York Region www.caughtinmotion.com Pentax istD, Nikon D2H D1 and soon, D200 or some Canon produce that works better than the POC D2H. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: 1.7 XAF SMC Pentax adapter
Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote: On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, mike wilson wrote: Kostas Kavoussanakis wrote: The manual states that you may get vignetting if not at infinity. But the T/C does not have a great focussing range (trade-off for speed), so some times you are forced to pre-focus (if approximately). I'm not so sure that it is a tradeoff as much as a need to adhere to optical rules. But, as you imply and nobody else has mentioned specifically, it is very fast at focusing. Ah, misunderstanding, the ambiguity of speed strikes again (though your statement for AF speed is in agreement with my findings). What I meant was that in order to have a wider focus range it would have to be a (say) 2x converter, so as to accommodate more movement. 2x converter=2 stop loss. Am I right? Kostas Pass. 8-) My take is that, to be of any use without being too large/heavy/whatever, Pentax designed it to have limited range of focus. I'm not sure this would have been influenced by the (nonfocus) speed of the converter. Possibly both factors come into account. In any case, this requires the user to prefocus to somewhere near the intended point. Details are taken care of by the converter, rapidly. My experience is that the 1.7 focuses at least as fast as the 28-70/2.8, probably faster. mike
Re: istDS or DS2
Thanks Derby, It was pointed out in an off-list message that the DS2 can take advantage of faster SD cards. That could be a factor for some people ... Shel [Original Message] From: Derby Chang Shel Belinkoff wrote: It's about time to replace the DS I sold a few months ago. There's a good deal available on a used DS that has me interested. Does the latest firmware update bring the DS up to DS2 specs and features? What features are different between the DS and the DS2? Does anyone know of a good deal on a new istDS? Anyone on the list have a lightly used DS they'd like to sell? Shel The firmware update does pretty much everything except make the LCD screen bigger. IOW, the DS isn't that much different from the DS2. That's both good, and bad.
Epson printers (Was Cool things I learned today.)
If you're content with nothing wider than 8.3 inches, consider the R800. Generally less than 400USD, UltraChrome inks give great reproduction and longevity. http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/consumer/consDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yesoid=37472319 http://tinyurl.com/suyx -P [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I discovered that the built in profiles that Epson provides work pretty darned well. It's true. I discovered that if the printer colour management is on, colour management in Photoshop should be off. Man, I remember when I discovered that. I found it amazing that I hadn't read anywhere that if the printer colour management is on, colour management in Photoshop should be off. That is, stated as clearly and concisely as you just did. -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com Hummm. Wonder if i should try an Epson printer. The Canon's,as far as i can see, don't have colour management in detail as the Epsons. Plus the added benifit of proper BW inks. Any suggestions, models to start looking. Keep in mind i would sell a lot from the printer, so a good dpi would be nice and ability to do a nice BW. Dave
Re: North America meet,was: GFM Nature Photography
Hey, I'd be up for a gathering in this area outside of GFM itself... not sure how much I'd enjoy a competition... Comparing my photos to those of others might make me look like the village idiot. :) We can sit together then.VBG I forgot my portfolio last year at GFM, but hope to remember to bring it this year. I'll let you know if i'm a small v or large V idiot.:-) Dave --- Dave Brooks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb wrote: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. Then you wrote: I thought that was what kept happening during the NPW @ GFM. Yes but there we have a purpose in life. :-) Dave David J Brooks Equine Photography in York Region www.caughtinmotion.com Pentax istD, Nikon D2H D1 and soon, D200 or some Canon produce that works better than the POC D2H. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: OT Radio Fundraiser last Night
Are they going to broadcast some of your images? ;-) I wonder what frequency that radio is on. (close to visible range? :-) ) Igor Sun, 05 Feb 2006 08:00:00 -0800 Dave Brooks wrote: [...] Shot about 235 Raw/Jpegs using the newly serviced D2H. Heh it even lasted one whole shoot.:-) Local paper wants some, the bands want some and the radio wants some. [...]
Re: North America meet,was: GFM Nature Photography
In the immortal words of Garfield (the cat): I resemble that remark. CW - Original Message - From: Jon Myers Comparing my photos to those of others might make me look like the village idiot. :)
Re: question about chromes
Gautam Sarup wrote: Ann, My favourite after trying out a few is Kodachrome 64. Takes about 2 weeks for processing though. Cheers, Gautam Certainly was mine - but forget that - finding a place with k14 processing ... can't do it. a On 2/4/06, Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? ann
Re: question about chromes
mike wilson wrote: Ann Sanfedele wrote: HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... what sort of artwork and what will they be doing with the results? I'll find out what it looks like on Tuesday - paintings, not sculpture is all I know now... purpose is to send stuff to galleries and juried shows, from what I ganthered. reading as much as I have so far (and thanks to all you guys for chiming in) PROVIA 100F I should be able to get a hold of. I think I'd get it processed at Dugal here. ann I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? ann
Re: Lens comparison pages re-done slightly
On Thu, 12 Jan 2006, Mark Roberts wrote: The order in which the lenses were used is scrambled. I didn't look at the PEF files while putting the pages together today so even I don't know which image is from which lens. I'll post a image-to-lens key in a few days. Hi Mark, Have I missed the key? Curious, Kostas
Re: question about chromes
Bob Shell wrote: You want the most neutral and accurate rendering. None of the Ektachromes will give you that. In my testing the most neutral and accurate E-6 film was the recently discontinued Agfachrome RSX 100. There may still be dealers with stock, though. I think I'll pass on hunting that up. Close, but not quite as neutral, is Fuji Astia 100. All of the other Fuji chrome films exaggerate color. Bob I don't know that one at all -- Marnie suggested PRovia and someone else did... These aren't being shot for reproduction as far as I know, just for galleries to review his work. It may be that absolutely precise color is not going to swing the viewers one way or the other - but I'd certainly like to get as close as possible to reality. ann
FS Hood
I found upstairs a nice, LN 62mm (iirc) Pentax metal w/a threaded hood. In case. LN. Pics on request. $20 shipped in US. Collin
Re: This is new for mew
I agree that the Oly E cameras other than the E-1 have rather poor viewfinders. I'm looking for an E-1 update ... Like Pentax, Oly have been expanding the lower end of their DSLR spectrum rather than upgrading the high end. I guess that's where they figure the money is. Godfrey On Feb 5, 2006, at 8:14 AM, Adam Maas wrote: Unfortunately the Oly 4/3rds bodies also have the singularily worst viewfinders on the market (Except the old E-1 which is quite acceptable).
Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
Thanks Don, I've driven up to Zion national park from Las Vegas. It sounds like Kodchrome Basin and Brice are just a bit farther north. Las Vegas could be a cheap air fare for a fly'n'drive vacation. Regards, Bob S. On 2/5/06, Don Sanderson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Utah http://www.go-utah.com/Kodachrome-Basin-State-Park Don -Original Message- From: Bob Sullivan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:31 AM To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Subject: Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open Good idea, so where is Kodachrome Basin? Regards, Bob S. On 2/5/06, Tom Reese [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb put forth the proposition: I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I suggest that in September 2008, we all decend upon Kodachrome Basin State Park and just hang out for a few days. Seconded. Tom (Have Camera Will Travel) Reese
Re: question about chromes
As recently as May, Fuji was still producing Astia 100f, which I preferred to Provia because it was a little snappier and also much less sensitive to the ph of the water used for developing it, which made Provia a real pain in the butt to develop. If your local lab has blue/magenta issues with Provia, Astia is a good alternative choice. -Aaron
Re: question about chromes
Recommend Fuji Astia 100 or Provia f100. Astia slightly finer grain (finest of all slide films, per Fuji) and Provia marginally more saturated. Jack --- Tom Reese [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Since it's artwork, I assume that you're looking for accurate color reproduction. My favorite chrome is the Elite Extra Color but it's not the right film for your job. I too think Kodachrome might be the right choice but processing is a pain. You might also consider E100G: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/colorReversalIndex.jhtml?id=0.1.22.14.9lc=en It's not oversaturated and has a neutral color balance. It sounds like a very interesting assignment. Tom Reese -- Original message -- From: Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED] HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? ann __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: OT Radio Fundraiser last Night
Are they going to broadcast some of your images? ;-) I wonder what frequency that radio is on. (close to visible range? :-) ) Igor You'd be suprised the power we have. Bwaa Haa Haaa. No, they'll be for the website, sorry about that. Dave Sun, 05 Feb 2006 08:00:00 -0800 Dave Brooks wrote: [...] Shot about 235 Raw/Jpegs using the newly serviced D2H. Heh it even lasted one whole shoot.:-) Local paper wants some, the bands want some and the radio wants some. [...]
Re: question about chromes
As recently as May, Fuji was still producing Astia 100f, which I preferred to Provia because it was a little snappier and also much less sensitive to the ph of the water used for developing it, which made Provia a real pain in the butt to develop. If your local lab has blue/magenta issues with Provia, Astia is a good alternative choice. -Aaron Oh Oh Ann. You've woken the Brother hood up.:-) Hey Aaron. Dave
Re: question about chromes
On Feb 5, 2006, at 1:02 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Oh Oh Ann. You've woken the Brother hood up.:-) Hey Aaron. No one had said anything about not being able to hand-hold a Pentax 67 lately, so I figured I wasn't needed. -Aaron
Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open
William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Paul Stenquist Subject: Re: GFM Nature Photography Weekend registration is open Well then, I'll have to try to make it two in a row. For me, the best part of GFM was meeting people for real that I had been getting to know on list. I had met Tom Cakalic and his family, and had a wonderful time, prior to that, I had not met in person, another PDML'r. I think a North American PDML get together would be cool. I suggest that in September 2008, we all decend upon Kodachrome Basin State Park and just hang out for a few days. William Robb Ok, I'll start saving pennies late september, of course ann
Re: February 2006 Comments
On Sun, 05 Feb 2006 04:40:53 +0100, Daniel J. Matyola [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A quick review of my reactions to the PUG entries for February: Thanks for commenting. Calatrava by Lucas Rijnders: Nice composition. I know you can't control the weather, but it might look better with a blue sky or moreinteresting clouds. You are absolutely right. I actually went twice, and both times the weather was drizzly, wet, cold and grey. This was the only shot with a slight hint of sun I got on those two days. I knew I had to get back there, thanks for confirming :o) -- Regards, Lucas
Re: Spherical K15mm 3.5 shots...
Very nice. I observe a wine bottle, presumably empty, next to the kitchen sink. That is an important step! Rick --- Cotty [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: masquerading as the latest in my moving house diary. Cheap and cheerfullike me :-) http://www.cottysnaps.com/Greystones/february4.html Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche ||=|http://www.cottysnaps.com _ __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: This is new for mew
On Sat, 04 Feb 2006 20:27:45 +0100, Godfrey DiGiorgi [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The adaptation possibility for Pentax K-mount makes the possibility of an Olympus, or Panasonic, 4/3 camera an intriguing idea. I am pretty I'd test that before spending lots of money on it if I were you. I gathered OM lenses are, with one or two exceptions, not very popular with Olympus E-users. Unless Pentax lenses of that period are vastly superior (which I somehow doubt), they might disappoint on an 4/3's sensor. -- Regards, Lucas
Re: Sad decline of PDML /WAS Re: GFM
On Sat, 04 Feb 2006 03:32:38 +0100, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 2/3/2006 6:30:19 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Well...I would say it is a Python thing and that kind of insanity transcends all boundaries. Keith I wear high heels, suspenders and a bra McG = Actually, I fail to see why dressing up as a woman is funny. It's a very british thing. They quite succesfully exported it to australia. Not sure about the rest of the commonwealth ;-) -- Regards, Lucas
PESO - Fjord Liner
Hi! Another image from my 2004 trip to Norway... The gear is courtesy of mighty Jostein. http://not.contaxg.com/document.php?id=11829 Boris
Re: February 2006 Comments
On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, DagT wrote: Den 5. feb. 2006 kl. 04.40 skrev Daniel J. Matyola: Undone by Dag Thrane: Another one of my favorites. I love thecolor, and I love the composition, but the needle really makes this amemorable photograph. Thanks Daniel! What is it, Dag? Your pictures are always interesting. Kostas
Re: PESO - Fjord Liner
Nice. The reflections make it special. Paul On Feb 5, 2006, at 1:34 PM, Boris Liberman wrote: Hi! Another image from my 2004 trip to Norway... The gear is courtesy of mighty Jostein. http://not.contaxg.com/document.php?id=11829 Boris
Re: blue fringing
- The problem is not the lens. Chromatic aberration is different. I have many lenses which I used on analog and I never saw this. - It must be something after the lens. - The Sony DSC-R1 is virtually free of blue fringing and uses CMOS. Suspects are CCD chips or the anti alias filter. From what I understand the anti alias filter scatters the image from the lens with microscopic lenses. Maybe these micro lenses have chromatic aberration or something else. I don't know, maybe Sony finally solved it. What I do know is that the DSC-R1 doesn't show this and all CCD camera's suffer from blue fringing and all companies never mention it. Anyway, I don't like blue fringes on my Pentax horizons and trees. On 2/5/06, Kostas Kavoussanakis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, Toine Kuiper wrote: The blue fringing is everywhere in the image (left right and center). Only on high contrast transitions. I also suspect the antlialias filter like DagT mentioned. So why did you conclude that it's the CCD technology to blame and CMOS would be the solution? Don't they have antialias filters? Kostas
Re: blue fringing
On Feb 5, 2006, at 1:44 PM, Toine Kuiper wrote: Anyway, I don't like blue fringes on my Pentax horizons and trees. Do you find that this is something you notice in practical applications, or is it just upon close examination of the files? -Aaron
Re: PESO - Fjord Liner
Mighty?!? LOL. I can't recall you taking this one. It must be in Flåm, right? Was it before or after the train ride? I like the shot. Well seen. Jostein - Original Message - From: Boris Liberman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 7:34 PM Subject: PESO - Fjord Liner Hi! Another image from my 2004 trip to Norway... The gear is courtesy of mighty Jostein. http://not.contaxg.com/document.php?id=11829 Boris
Re: OT: Prayer for my Daughter
Hi Jan: I hope Nicole gets well soon. --jc On Feb 4, 2006, at 3:23 AM, Jay Taylor wrote: She remains in the hospital this evening. They have run the gamut of tests since yesterday. EKG, blood work, spleen, thyroid, chest x- ray and CAT scan this afternoon all showing nothing abnormal. They still do not know what is wrong with her though. The infectious disease specialist was the last doctor today to examine her and his only take on it is that perhaps is some sort of viral infection. He said that he has seen a few patients recently with similar symptoms. Nicole looked better today, but was still suffering the headaches and her blood pressure still would drop pretty far when she stands up. They are going to keep her another night at least maybe have some sort of prognosis tomorrow. Now that they were able to rule several things out they were able to give her some pain medication so she was able to get some good rest tonight. We continue to remain faithful that her health will be fully restored. Though I don't actually had the pleasure of meeting any of you folks, I consider you all to be friends. Again, thank you for your prayers and encouragement. And may God bless you and your families.
Re: February 2006 Comments
On Sun, 05 Feb 2006 19:41:34 +0100, Kostas Kavoussanakis [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sun, 5 Feb 2006, DagT wrote: Den 5. feb. 2006 kl. 04.40 skrev Daniel J. Matyola: Undone by Dag Thrane: Another one of my favorites. I love thecolor, and I love the composition, but the needle really makes this amemorable photograph. Thanks Daniel! What is it, Dag? Your pictures are always interesting. Hi Kostas, Notice the 'needle' in Daniels remark and go back to the picture. Don't forget the title. I think you can figure it out... -- Regards, Lucas (who needed the 'needle' hint as well...)
Re: Postcardware ...
Cute idea! Sun, 05 Feb 2006 06:48:17 -0800 Shel Belinkoff wrote: Just a while ago I found plug-in for Photoshop that looked interesting. The author of the plug-in has an interesting registration option. Here's the URL so you can see the Grids plug-in. Click on Register to see the registration scheme. http://www.users.cloud9.net/~gparet/photoshop/#grid Shel
Re: question about chromes
On Feb 5, 2006, at 12:07 PM, Ann Sanfedele wrote: I don't know that one at all -- Marnie suggested PRovia and someone else did... These aren't being shot for reproduction as far as I know, just for galleries to review his work. It may be that absolutely precise color is not going to swing the viewers one way or the other - but I'd certainly like to get as close as possible to reality. Astia is similar to Provia, but without the exaggerated colors. Artists can be awfully picky about color accuracy, and I would go for neutral. Lighting will be much harder than film selection. You need daylight balance, but absolutely as diffuse as possible. Outdoors under lightly overcast sky would be ideal. Watch out for specular reflections if they are oil paintings. I used to photograph a lot of artwork for a gallery near here. They always wanted 4 X 5 transparencies, so it was a lot more work. Bob
Re: Flash and *ist D
Hi Don, If you are going to use a beam splitter to send light out the objective to light the subject then I would consider getting hold of an AF360FGZ and modifying it to work. The tube in the 360 is slightly shorter from memory - it's been a while since I had mine apart that far. I spliced a second head at the end of about a foot of cable onto one of my 360's to make a lightweight twin headed macro flash. The second head can be unplugged and the flash then works as a normal flash. I would consider using the wireless trigger on the flash as it's one less cable floating around. Otherwise you will need to use a 5P cable. Leon http://www.bluering.org.au http://www.bluering.org.au/leon Don Williams wrote: Hi Leon, The flash, which is made from a Polaroid unit and a single straight flash tube about 50mm long, works very well as a flash. But the tube, which lies across the beam, causes diffraction in the images. In other words it doesn't work very well in the microscope. I intend to use a beam splitter and direct light from a standard flash into the path. I may even be able to use TTL if I can find a connector that will satisfy the camera. So the problem now becomes -- How can I trigger the Vivitar on the table about 24 away from the camera and what extension lead do I need? The camera is on the top of a monocular mount behind the binocular and using one flash to trigger another would be very dangerous and unstable. I can imagine the camera up on top of this 'Xmas Tree' with a flash in the shoe. Something would give very soon. It would get in the way of my head in any case. Don Leon Altoff wrote: Don, The flash on the microscope may have too high a voltage for the ist D. Once it flashes it may be locking up the camera. Try measuring the voltage or disconnecting the flash flash after each exposure. You may not want to keep doing this too often in case it permanently damages the camera. A solution to this could be using a slave unit on the microscope and triggering it with the Vivitar flash. Leon http://www.bluering.org.au http://www.bluering.org.au/leon Don Williams wrote: Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. Don
SV: Flash and *ist D
Sorry, Don. i remebered wrong - you've got the D. Perhaps you've got the red-eye reduction on? Don't know about the polarity - but my D needs af crosed/reversed cable for som flash strobes. If you don't have the RTF poped up, something is wrong with your internal connections (in the flash, I mean :-). Regards Jens Jens Bladt http://www.jensbladt.dk -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: William Robb [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 5. februar 2006 15:39 Til: pentax-discuss@pdml.net Emne: Re: Flash and *ist D - Original Message - From: Don Williams Subject: Flash and *ist D Hi all, I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this. It may not be anything you are doing wrong. The istD seems very sensitive to the polarity of the PC cable. I presume you are plugging into the flash socket, and not using a shoe adaptor? If you can, reverse the plug where the cable plugs into the flash on the microscope. William Robb
Re: Flash and *ist D
- Check flash connection polarity - Check flash trigger voltage ... If it's over 10V, use it with a Wein Safe Sync. If you need to move the flash a distance from the camera, use an extension cable (Promaster has a nice one that preserves the Pentax dedicated connections ... see http://www.promaster.com/products/productpage.asp? sm=sm2_flashbracketsproduct=8144 or http://tinyurl.com/7uhc5 note that the item pictured is for a Canon ... the product code for the Pentax unit is 8179 but there's no picture) along with the Wein Safe Sync for a non-dedicated flash unit. Godfrey On Feb 5, 2006, at 4:38 AM, Don Williams wrote: I'm still waiting for the replacement camera and am using the one with the faulty internal flash. It works with an external flash Vivitar 730 AFPK perfectly ... but. On the microscope, which has a simple flash device with no synchronization, or TTL, or anything at all automatic ... the flash will flash once and then not again. Its not a question of charge the flash is made to strobe and will go on flashing with a film camera until the cows come home at 1/2 second intervals. What am I doing wrong? I haven't spent much time learning -- I've been using the camera and it works fine with ordinary lighting on the scopes. In green, M, or any other setting I might like to use. All I want is for the flash to flash each time the shutter is opened. The exposure is controlled by other means and the camera is not expected to think about this.
Re: istDS or DS2
The DS2 can theoretically perform writes as fast as a 133x SD card can accept, but the buffer sizes, etc, have not changed. I doubt that you'd see all that much difference between them in practical terms. Godfrey On Feb 5, 2006, at 8:25 AM, Shel Belinkoff wrote: It was pointed out in an off-list message that the DS2 can take advantage of faster SD cards. That could be a factor for some people ...
istD battery grip not working?
I never used my battery grip for my istD and now when I tried it out I can only get the shutter and DOF preview to work. The Av and TV wheels don't work. Anyone who can give me a pointer? thanks Paul
Re: Cool things I learned today.
Hummm. Wonder if i should try an Epson printer. The Canon's,as far as i can see, don't have colour management in detail as the Epsons. Dave From PhotoShop any printer can be colour managed as long as the printer can be made to produce a consistent print with reasonable colour, contrast and gamma. Profile the printer and paper in the fixed print setup and apply the profile within PhotoShop. I prefer doing this way. Epson profiles do me no good as I use a 1200 with third party inks and papers. Powell
Re: Epson printers
The R800 uses the same inkset as the R1800, which is particularly good for glossy color prints due to the 'gloss optimizer'. It doesn't have the quadtone inks as part of its inkset and doesn't take the Photo Matte ink. On the other hand, the R800 will print on appropriate CD and DVD media for labeling. If you want the best BW printing, you need the Epson Ultrachrome K3 inkset. That's only available on the R2400, R4800 and beyond at this point in time. Godfrey On Feb 5, 2006, at 8:26 AM, Paul Sorenson wrote: If you're content with nothing wider than 8.3 inches, consider the R800. Generally less than 400USD, UltraChrome inks give great reproduction and longevity. http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/consumer/consDetail.jsp? BV_UseBVCookie=yesoid=37472319 http://tinyurl.com/suyx [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hummm. Wonder if i should try an Epson printer. The Canon's,as far as i can see, don't have colour management in detail as the Epsons. Plus the added benifit of proper BW inks. Any suggestions, models to start looking. Keep in mind i would sell a lot from the printer, so a good dpi would be nice and ability to do a nice BW. Dave
Re: question about chromes
Ann Sanfedele wrote: mike wilson wrote: Ann Sanfedele wrote: HI gang, I've hardly been here - though didn't actually unsub - but it looks like I might have a job where I will need to shoot chromes instead of digital - dragging out the ole LX -- But it has been a few years since I shot slides and I'd like some opinions on Elitechrome for photoing artwork... what sort of artwork and what will they be doing with the results? I'll find out what it looks like on Tuesday - paintings, not sculpture is all I know now... purpose is to send stuff to galleries and juried shows, from what I ganthered. reading as much as I have so far (and thanks to all you guys for chiming in) PROVIA 100F I should be able to get a hold of. I think I'd get it processed at Dugal here. ann Aren't you going to want larger than 35mm? I'm not sure where i'll be shooting - inside or out, I have filters a bunch for adjusting to sundry inside lighting... Pretty sure I have the gig, going to see the work on Tuesday... anyone have a favorite that is still being made for this kind of stuff? ann
BW printing ... BowHaus InkJet Control and OpenPrintMaker ??
Speaking of Epson printers and BW printing, I ran across this product recently: BowHaus: InkJet Control™ and OpenPrintMaker™ http://www.bowhaus.com/services/IJCOPMmain.php4 Has anyone tried these products? They're not cheap, but if they substantively improve BW print quality with the Epson R2400 and R4800, it might be worth it. Godfrey
Re: istD battery grip not working?
Eeek! Clean the contacts??? CW - Original Message - From: Paulus Eriksson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: PDML pentax-discuss@pdml.net Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 2:49 PM Subject: istD battery grip not working? I never used my battery grip for my istD and now when I tried it out I can only get the shutter and DOF preview to work. The Av and TV wheels don't work. Anyone who can give me a pointer? thanks Paul -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.375 / Virus Database: 267.15.2/251 - Release Date: 2/4/2006
Re: Cool things I learned today.
- Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Cool things I learned today. Hummm. Wonder if i should try an Epson printer. The Canon's,as far as i can see, don't have colour management in detail as the Epsons. Plus the added benifit of proper BW inks. Any suggestions, models to start looking. Keep in mind i would sell a lot from the printer, so a good dpi would be nice and ability to do a nice BW. This is the first time I have bothered trying to figure out colour management on an inkjet printer. I've always just taken my files to work and printed them there. Anyway, I have colour management on the printer turned off, and have set Photoshop to manage the colours. All I've done in printer is told it what paper profile to use. The link shows what I've done with the Epson. In the first screen, I have selected no printer colour management. The middle screen shot is what you get when you select the print with preview option, and I have selected the option that allows Photoshop to colour manage. The third screen shows what paper profile Photoshop is going to use, in this case Epson Semi Matte Photo Paper on the roll. I would expect that you should be able to get your Canon to co-operate with you. William Robb
Re: This is new for mew
On Feb 5, 2006, at 10:33 AM, Lucas Rijnders wrote: The adaptation possibility for Pentax K-mount makes the possibility of an Olympus, or Panasonic, 4/3 camera an intriguing idea. I am pretty I'd test that before spending lots of money on it if I were you. I gathered OM lenses are, with one or two exceptions, not very popular with Olympus E-users. Unless Pentax lenses of that period are vastly superior (which I somehow doubt), they might disappoint on an 4/3's sensor. Not sure what you mean, Lucas. Most Oly E-system users want the automation capabilities of the latest lenses, that's why OM lenses are not very popular. Just like most Pentax DSLR users want the automation capabilities of the latest lenses. I had an OM-1n kit for several years in the 1970s. It took very very good photographs, on par with other pro quality 35mm SLRs of the time. If the Pentax lenses I have now work well on the Pentax *ist DS (and they do), I cannot imagine why they would work poorly on an Olympus 4/3 sensor. Godfrey
Re: BW printing ... BowHaus InkJet Control and OpenPrintMaker ??
Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote: Speaking of Epson printers and BW printing, I ran across this product recently: BowHaus: InkJet Control™ and OpenPrintMaker™ http://www.bowhaus.com/services/IJCOPMmain.php4 Has anyone tried these products? They're not cheap, but if they substantively improve BW print quality with the Epson R2400 and R4800, it might be worth it. Godfrey Godfrey, I hang around on the Digital BW Printing group over on Yahoo. Over there, the general consensus is that a RIP makes a great deal of difference on the older Epsons, but not on the R2400 and 4800/7800/9800 with the Advanced BW driver option and the K3 inkset. A RIP is of course useful if you wish to use a 3rd party inkset. Most folks are using QuadToneRIP or Imageprint with the PhatteBlack setup if they are using a RIP. The former is extremely inexpensive (free to try and $50 to buy, no restrictions on the try) and quite good for BW work. -Adam
Re: blue fringing
- Original Message - From: Toine Kuiper Subject: Re: blue fringing - The problem is not the lens. Chromatic aberration is different. I have many lenses which I used on analog and I never saw this. - It must be something after the lens. - The Sony DSC-R1 is virtually free of blue fringing and uses CMOS. Suspects are CCD chips or the anti alias filter. From what I understand the anti alias filter scatters the image from the lens with microscopic lenses. Maybe these micro lenses have chromatic aberration or something else. I don't know, maybe Sony finally solved it. What I do know is that the DSC-R1 doesn't show this and all CCD camera's suffer from blue fringing and all companies never mention it. Anyway, I don't like blue fringes on my Pentax horizons and trees. I suspect that Sony has solved it with software. Interestingly, it's not something I have ever particlarly noticed with my istD. I remember when I was shooting high acutance film that I would often get something akin to Mackie lines in high contrast tonal transitions, so it's not just a digital sensor issue. William Robb
Re: Epson printers
- Original Message - From: Godfrey DiGiorgi Subject: Re: Epson printers If you want the best BW printing, you need the Epson Ultrachrome K3 inkset. That's only available on the R2400, R4800 and beyond at this point in time. Monochrome off the 4800 is quite nice, I am happy to say. William Robb
Re: istD battery grip not working?
- Original Message - From: Paulus Eriksson Subject: istD battery grip not working? I never used my battery grip for my istD and now when I tried it out I can only get the shutter and DOF preview to work. The Av and TV wheels don't work. Anyone who can give me a pointer? Take the grip off the camera, turn the camera off and remove the batteries. Replace the batteries, put the grip back on, and turn the camera, then the grip back on. I've had this happen a couple of times, this has cured it. I think the camera is just getting confused. Also, check that the focus selector switch is actually on a setting. William Robb
Re: blue fringing
Pictures taken in autumn and winter with many trees against a blue sky result in a slight blue haze in the tree line. It's ugly. On 2/5/06, Aaron Reynolds [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Feb 5, 2006, at 1:44 PM, Toine Kuiper wrote: Anyway, I don't like blue fringes on my Pentax horizons and trees. Do you find that this is something you notice in practical applications, or is it just upon close examination of the files? -Aaron
Re: This is new for mew
On Sun, 05 Feb 2006 21:07:08 +0100, Godfrey DiGiorgi [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Feb 5, 2006, at 10:33 AM, Lucas Rijnders wrote: The adaptation possibility for Pentax K-mount makes the possibility of an Olympus, or Panasonic, 4/3 camera an intriguing idea. I am pretty I'd test that before spending lots of money on it if I were you. I gathered OM lenses are, with one or two exceptions, not very popular with Olympus E-users. Unless Pentax lenses of that period are vastly superior (which I somehow doubt), they might disappoint on an 4/3's sensor. Not sure what you mean, Lucas. I'll explain :-) Most Oly E-system users want the automation capabilities of the latest lenses, that's why OM lenses are not very popular. Just like most Pentax DSLR users want the automation capabilities of the latest lenses. I had Most do, but Pentax has an active 'old glass' cult, not just here, but in several other places as well. I had the impression Olympus misses this. I might be wrong. an OM-1n kit for several years in the 1970s. It took very very good photographs, on par with other pro quality 35mm SLRs of the time. Oh yes. I learned photography on my father's OM-1. He took it out of the closet recently: it's still a brilliant camera. A look trough the viewfinder was what made me look for an MX. If the Pentax lenses I have now work well on the Pentax *ist DS (and they do), I cannot imagine why they would work poorly on an Olympus 4/3 sensor. I gathered, but it is hearsay from memory, that most OM lenses are simply not sharp enough on the 4/3's sensor. It is both smaller and higher resolution. It might not be true: that's why I said to test for yourself :o) Hope that clarifies, -- Regards, Lucas
Re: blue fringing
- Original Message - From: Toine Kuiper Subject: Re: blue fringing Pictures taken in autumn and winter with many trees against a blue sky result in a slight blue haze in the tree line. It's ugly. How much sharpening are you applying to the image? William Robb
