Re: Almost OT: which telescope for a beginner

2003-10-08 Thread Dave Evans
One can get a very deal of enjoyment from a 60mm (diameter)f10 refractor.
Look at the Orion website (as an example) or a Sky and Telescope magazine.

Best regards,
Dave
___

 From: Gaurav Aggarwal [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 08:31:08 -0700
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Almost OT: which telescope for a beginner
 Resent-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Resent-Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2003 11:31:45 -0400
 
 Here's another OT question (FAQ?):
 
 I am just beginning to get interested in star gazing but have never
 looked through a telescope. How do I go about choosing and buying one?
 I am sort of looking for a ME-Super+50 f/1.7 of telescopes.
 
 Thanks for your help.
 Gaurav
 
 



Mating connector for winder

2003-10-08 Thread Dave Evans
Anyone know where I can locate a connector mating to an MEII winder?

Dave



lens repair/replacement ?

2003-04-05 Thread Dave Evans
I have owned a Tamron 70-210 F3.5-4 (adaptall) for several years, and have
used it extensively. Good optics, and will go to 1:2 without attachments.
Unfortunately, a tripod leg collapsed, and the outcome was a lens with the
adaptall cocked about 10 degrees off-axis. I could not easily disengage the
adaptall, so I sent it to Tamron. They wrote back, saying they no longer
repair the lens due to its age. Any notions on either a place that can
repair the lens (choice 1), or a suitable replacement lens (or even two)
(choice 2)?



Re: FS: Right angle finder

2001-08-08 Thread Dave Evans

if it's the model I have, it is quite expensive--- not sure, maybe $200 or so new.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 08/08/01 02:16PM 
I have listed a Pentax Right-Angle Finder on EBay at 
http://cgi.ca.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1262479504 

This item fits any Pentax SLR camera from the last 20 years (back as far as the MX at 
least).  I don't know about before that.  It has 1X and 2X magnification and is in 
very good, not mint, condition.  The paint is not perfect in a couple of spots.

It really saves your back if you are photographing something low down, like flowers or 
really short people, because you are looking down not horizontally through the regular 
viewfinder.  To install, you slide the rubber eyepiece off your camera and slide the 
right angle finder on.

Any questions, please EMail me direct at [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Thanks, Jim Commins, Ottawa, Canada.

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Re: Why I won't be buying an MZ-S, and other ramblings with arant at the very end.

2001-07-16 Thread Dave Evans

rambling? maybe, but you ramble very coherently.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 07/16/01 10:16AM 
Yes, but auto-everything cameras in the hands of someone who knows how to
use a fully manual camera can be an even more formidable weapon.  Remember
that there is no requirement to use the automation.  However, if the body
has none, there is no possibility to use it in the right situation.  Case in
point - I grew up on fully manual cameras for the first 15 years of use.  I
like manual everything - however, there are times when the autofocus can
help me to get pictures that I would have a much higher failure rate
manually.  Same holds true for autoexposure.  Sure, someone who knows
nothing can snap a pic, but someone who does know something can really work
it to their advantage.  Another classic bit of automation is TTL flash and
auto flash fill.  I have done it both ways, and the old way sucks!  Knowing
and understanding how to apply the flash fill is still very important, but
letting the camera quickly do the math is much better.

Bruce (who is starting to ramble) Dayton
Sacramento, CA


- Original Message -
From: Chris Brogden [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2001 10:04 PM


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Re: 18% Gray (the TRUTH!)

2001-07-13 Thread Dave Evans

bill- 

you've very good.

fairly ill, but good

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 07/13/01 11:13AM 
 
 Albano wrote:
 
  Somebody knows if ALL cameras and ALL incident meters are calibrated for 13
  percent? All Asahi cameras or just modern ones? All meters? Gossen?
 
The real reason for this discrepancy is that way back during
the Anselian Age the Sun actually shone brighter than it does
today, thus the average scene back in those idyllic times 
did truly measure an 18% reflectance. Some speculate that the
increased industrialization and concurrent smog (obeying Boyle's
Law and dispersing evenly throughout the atmospheric envelope)
density has reduced this reflectance to a mere 13% in recent times.

Friday looming large on the Oregon Coast .Bill


-
Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast

http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Re: Salvaging unprocessed overexposed negs ?

2001-07-03 Thread Dave Evans

just tell them that you shot both at 100.

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MX?

2001-05-03 Thread Dave Evans

Item #1233190886 on Ebay
I wonder what is for sale?
comments?

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Re: RE: Nikon's New Manual-focus SLR kicks butt!

2001-04-25 Thread Dave Evans

There are Nauga farms throughout the western United States to supply hides. The wild 
Naughas are intended to be left alone.


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 04/21 1:29 PM 
On second thought, it wouldn't surprise me much to learn there
is an animal rights group dedicated to stopping us from using
the hides of the Nauga.

Len
---

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Len Paris
 Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 3:23 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Subject: RE: Nikon's New Manual-focus SLR kicks butt!


 Well, let's see now.  Naugahide is imitation leather made of
 some kind of plastic. Companies that use the term genuine
 naugahide have an extremely low opinion of the
 intelligence of
 shoppers.  I guess they think that we will think a Nauga is
 some kind of an exotic beast. :-)

 Len
 ---

  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
  Shel Belinkoff
  Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2001 2:47 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  Subject: Re: Nikon's New Manual-focus SLR kicks butt!
 
 
  And what reaction does Genuine Naugahyde evoke? ;-)
 
  Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
  
   Genuine Imitation Metal Finish grin.  That comes from
   the wallet someone gave me as a present when I
 was small. It
   was stamped in gold Genuine Imitation Leather an was
   actually made out of pressed paper. To this day the
   expression comes to mind any time I see or hear about fake
   crap!
 
  --
  Shel Belinkoff
  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  There are no rules for good photographs,
  there are only good photographs.

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Re: Spot Metering Question

2001-04-24 Thread Dave Evans

My first thought is that, no matter the meter, it thinks the subject is 18% gray 
(or13%, depending on your local guru). 

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 04/24 12:22 PM 
Finally found the group after quite a while. I remember somebody posting a 
correction chart when spot metering. Example, add 2 stops if subject was a 
white color such as a wedding dress. Is this still the way? I purchased a 
PZ1p and was wondering if I let the metering system do it, ot do I 
compensate? Thanks.Craig

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Re: Fast, Clean Glass* (200/2.8A*, 300/4A*, 300/2.8A*) at RitzCamera online

2001-04-24 Thread Dave Evans

Probably not nuts, Paal. Your postings seem coherent. But, then.

I have personal article insurance on all my camera stuff. All the reputable 
commercial sources for a Pentax A300 F4 seem to show the lens at $650 and up. I have 
the insurance level for that lens at $700. 

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 04/24 2:03 PM 
Anyone who buys these lenses at those prices must be pretty nuts...Or maybe I'm nuts 
who sell my lenses cheaply... :-)



- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2001 10:36 PM
Subject: Fast, Clean Glass* (200/2.8A*, 300/4A*, 300/2.8A*) at Ritz Camera online


 Avoid EBA syndrome (EBay Anxiety); I spotted these over the weekend at
 http://www.ritzcam.com/catalog/index.html 
 
 Pentax, 200mm f2.8 SMC A* ED (green star) w/built-in hood, both caps
 #5696xxx (10-)  $795
 
 Pentax, 300mm f4.0 SMC A* ED (green star) w/built-in hood, both caps
 #5304xxx (10-)  $695
 
 Pentax, 300mm f2.8 SMC A* EDIF w/caps, in metal case.Awesome Lens! #5685xxx
 (9++)  $2,750
 
 
 
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Re: Plus-X

2001-04-12 Thread Dave Evans

HC110 is an adjustable, but usually quite high contrast, developer. I used it years 
ago for astrophography- with Plus-X.


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 04/12 1:47 PM 
Per the inquiries from Shel  WW:  In the Plus-X work I've done, development
was with the standard Kodak chemicals and by the book.  That produces some
nice fine grain but also some low contrast.  I'd like to improve that contrast
characteristic with same exposure setting.  Normally I rated it at 125,
also by the book.
Would Accufine be a better developer for this purpose than the standard
Kodak chemistry?

Collin

***

Data Processing Consultation, Inc.
Providing Broad-Spectrum Business Solutions and Assistance
http://www.iol21.com/dpconsult 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

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Re: Cable Release

2001-03-15 Thread Dave Evans

Depending on the construction of the metal release, it can be much better. I have four 
different metal releases. They all have different flexibilities. The only problem with 
air releases is the limited lifetime (loses air integrity).

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/15 8:01 AM 
Is the air bulb type of release any better than a mechanical release
in terms of minimizing any camera movement or shake?  
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Re: Candy

2001-03-15 Thread Dave Evans

Check on Jelly Bellies (Fairfield or Suisun City, CA), Gummy Bears, etc.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/15 7:49 AM 
There's a little project I'm working on in which I'll be
photographing candy, like MMs, jelly beans, and the like.  I just
bought a bag of MMs and was disappointed because there are just a
few colors, and they're not very bright.  Once the brown and blue
candies are removed (colors that won't work for the project),
there's only red, yellow, green, and orange left.  Are there any
other MM-type candies out there that have more and brighter, more
saturated colors?
-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
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Re: Cable Release

2001-03-15 Thread Dave Evans

Probably not, espcially with a little aging. Pneumatics are very useful in design, but 
unlike water and other liquid fluids, gaseous air is quite compressive. A very short 
line could be very quick, 20-foot or so probably not.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/15 9:05 AM 
Gerald Cermak wrote:
 
 yes, much better, and with more reach.  
 My air bulb release is some 20' long.
 
  Is the air bulb type of release any better than a mechanical release
  in terms of minimizing any camera movement or shake?

What about responsiveness?  Is the air bulb as responsive (i.e.,
immediate)?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

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Re: which teleconverter for 300mm lens?

2001-03-09 Thread Dave Evans

"S", definitely the S. I've used a 1.4 and 2 on my A*300F4 for 16 years now- great 
lens.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/09 2:11 AM 
Hi,

which teleconverter should I use with the A* 300mm f/4 lens, the S or L
version?

What is difference between the T6-2x converter and the othe 2x converters?

bye,

Frank

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Re: Grip for Super Program or Super A

2001-03-09 Thread Dave Evans

If you mean the front, one-screw and pins grip, me also. I missed out on an auction on 
Ebay recently. I think the two of them went for ~$17 each.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/08 9:57 PM 
Hi,

I'm after a grip for a SuperProgram or Super A. If any one has one or know
any  leads on one.

Thanks
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Re: Gone for a while

2001-03-09 Thread Dave Evans

The best to you and your daughter.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/06 7:08 AM 
Good luck Mafud and congratulations on
the marriage of your daughter.

Evan

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Good-bye all.
 
 For the next two months or so, I'll be off the PDML list.
 I'm marrying off my youngest (33) ( #5 of 5) daughter this week. On my
 return, I'm scheduled for Abdominal Aortic Aneurysm repair.
 (Open chest repair of the aorta leading from my heart to my lower
 extremities.)
 I chose this surgical procedure over having a shunt shoved up my leg into the
 Aorta. That method requires 3 MRI exams a year for life. With this type of
 surgery, Allah be willing, I'll recover with no addition follow-up needed.
 
 It also means at least six weeks of my being sedentary. Worse, Haiti 
 Dominica are out, as is shooting Polo (and rich Polo pony owners) in Florida.
 If my days are numbered, I'm happy knowing I'll be laid to rest at Arlington
 National Cemetery.
 
 You might send ~inquiry~ mail to my [EMAIL PROTECTED] address. Someone
 is always monitoring that site.
 
 Mafud
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Re: Help please - MX overlapping frames

2001-02-16 Thread Dave Evans

Sounds almost like the advance side hardware is slipping. Had the problem on one of my 
cmeras. A tech fixed it during a CLA- involved a very small part (gear?).

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 02/16 6:31 AM 
Hi all
Maybe someone can help me fix my MX. It started with
uneven frame separation; now it is worse and some
frames are very separated (3 or 4 mm) and some other
are overlapping (slightly). The overlapping frames
(around 3 or 4 in a 36 - exposure roll) are in any
part of the roll. It seems to happen even when using a
winder. Could it be the 'safety' which doesn't let the
shutter go before the film is fully advanced?
Thanks
Luis

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Re: cities vs. no cities

2001-02-14 Thread Dave Evans

I thought it was a private listing, with name and location.
If it's a website with email listings, leave me out.
Too much drivel could come from this. Every peddler in the world selling anything 
vaguely related to photography would have easy hunting. A captive audience.


 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 02/14 6:21 AM 
Chris, If you plan to post it on the web please leave mine out.  

I get enough juck mail as it is.  I would imagine a list
containing e-mail addresses would be a spammers wet dream come
true.

You might talk to Doug Brewer about Majordomo, it is very good
at sending things out to a mailing list.  Though most mail
programs have some capability of sending mail to a list of
recipients.  Even in Netscape you can just go through the list
and Bcc everyone.  Just put all the respondents in a separate
list from your personal one.

Once a month or so, depending on new additions and requested
deletions you can send out an updated list.

--Tom


Chris Brogden wrote:
 
 On Tue, 13 Feb 2001, William Robb wrote:
 
  Chris, you will find it far easier to post an html document to the
  internet and send the URL out to interested parties. That way, all you
  have to do is send out an autoreply with the URL when a submission
  comes in, and update the webpage as needed. Trust me on this.
 
 I know it would be easier.  It's going to be quite the task to e-mail out
 a copy to everyone, and I would rather put it on a web page.  However, I'm
 wondering how everyone would feel about having their cities posted on a
 web page.  Personally, I don't care either way, myself, but I just assumed
 there would be resistance.  Any thoughts or suggestions, anyone?  Again,
 public replies are fine for this.  Thanks!


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Re: Metering question....

2001-02-14 Thread Dave Evans

Short version:
A separate spotmeter (fixed focal length) reads a small angle of view (1 degree, 3 
degrees, 10 degrees. etc). An in-camera spotmeter reads a small centered part of the 
viewfinder image. The absolute angle depends on the focal length of the attached lens. 
Very useful or high contrast situations. 

Center-weighted usually reads the entire image, averaged, witha very strong bias 
toward the center (actually, right below center). A bright light on the edge might not 
be inputted into the reported exposure requirement at all. C-W can be useful even in 
high contrast, if the area of interest can be separated or implied by other parts of 
theimage.



 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 02/14 1:15 PM 
Can someone tell me what the difference between center-weighted metering and
spot metering is? It seems to me like they would both do the same thing..?
Dosk

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Re: Wanted Super A plate and advice

2001-02-08 Thread Dave Evans

Hard to believe, but there never was a cover for the hole- I asked Pentax USA the 
question 15 years ago, and that was the answer.

Dave Evans

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 02/08 4:08 AM 
Hi,


I am after the screw in plate that cover the motor drive whole on a Super A,
i assume one of a Program Plus is the same. If any one has then let me know
:)

Also the foam inside the camera where the mirror sits when the film is
exposed has seen better days, where can i get this foam from and what is the
best way to clean it off and stick some new on?

Thanks
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Re: Use of a backup body (MZ-M in my case)

2001-02-01 Thread Dave Evans

Anytime I go more than a short travel distance from home, I carry a second body. Not 
only for a possible second film loaded,  but even a new camera can have mechanical or 
electrical problems, or have enough features that  serious reading time is required. 
In the mean time, you might want to continue shooting with something you know and 
trust. Personally, I have 6 bodies, all but one more than 14 years old. They are all 
very reliable, but I still won't leave for a trip with only one- one with Sensia100, 
one with Ilford400, one empty..
_

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 02/01 7:04 AM 
Hi everyone,

I recently (last weekend) purchased a MZ-5n, still
being the satisfied owner of a MZ-M.

Now, it is time to show that the MZ-M is a 'great
backup body' as a lot of reviews say... which brings
up a couple of questions to me, (who never had two
bodies):

- How, in a general sense, do you use a second body? I
imagine that shooting bw, or using it in 'dangerous'
trips, ...

- In which kind of pictures woul you 'specialize' the
MZ-M? (a manual body, no TTL flash, no spot-metering
..)

Maybe your advice is 'trade it for a good lens', but I
have read a lot of times that people keeps a backup
body.

Thanks in advance for your ideas,
Jaume

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get a grip

2001-01-29 Thread Dave Evans

Actually, I'm looking for a super prgram (etal?) front grip.
Any thoughts for a location to buy one?


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Re: Ebay insanity

2001-01-25 Thread Dave Evans

Now we're talkin' real dirt.

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] 01/25 1:08 PM 
 I don't know, if you play your cards right you can get a really really nice
1998 tractor, plow, belly mower, and box for less than a thousand bucks...

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