RE: 77mm 1.8 vs 85 mm f1.4

2002-03-08 Thread Ed Mathews

There's always the 105 F2.0 DC lens with adjustable spherical
abberation.  I hear it's very nice.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Rob Brigham
 Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 5:13 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: 77mm 1.8 vs 85 mm f1.4
 
 
 Can anyone recommend a good portrait lens in this range which 
 is perhaps a bit kinder to the subject?
 
 Or would you recommend just putting a soft focus filter or 
 stockings or something over the lens?
 
 Alternatively, I could do stuff in photoshop I suppose, but 
 when shooting negs I like to get 6*4s to put in the album 
 when the film is developed, and only spend my time scanning 
 and tweaking for exceptional shots.
 
 Ideally a sharp lens with some form of softening/diffusing 
 'filter' would be most versatile as I could stil have the 
 sharpness when I want it, but my main goal is for a fast 
 portrait lens only in this case, and if another (possibly 
 cheaper) lens would do the job better then I may consider it. 
  50mm is too short for me though - I want one in the 75-100mm range.
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Alan Chan [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  Sent: 08 March 2002 09:38
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: RE: 77mm 1.8 vs 85 mm f1.4
  
  
  OK, so I am going to finally buy a great portrait
  lens.
  I still have not firmly decided which of the two to go
  for, although I am leaning towards the 85mm for it's
  faster speed and focal length. What are the reasons
  why I should even consider the 77mm 1.8; it seems a
  bit overpriced.
  
  1) It's slighty cheaper than the FA*85/1.4.
  2) The 77 is generally a sharper lens at all distance so it's
  great for many 
  things.
  3) Light and compact mean great balance on even small bodies.
  4) Much smaller and cheaper 49mm filters.
  5) The aperture ring is much easier to operate too.
  6) The almost circle shape aperture blades at large aperture.
  7) Nice bokeh (no, the FA*85 is not consistant on this one)
  
  Is it built better?
  
  Yes, at least there is no stick-on window to fall/peel off.
  Ask Pal and u 
  will know. It feels like those good old M lenses.
  
  Is it sharper?
  
  Certainly, could be too sharp for most women though.
  
  regards,
  Alan Chan
  
  
  _
  Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
 http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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RE: The e-ffects on retail pricing

2002-03-08 Thread Ed Mathews

I went to Penn in Rockville about 2 months ago to play with their MZ-S,
so they at least had one at that time.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Paul F. Stregevsky
 Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 12:13 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: The e-ffects on retail pricing
 
snip
 supplies and film but their camera selection is limited to 
 Nikon and Canon, with a few Leicas and Contax thrown in for 
 show. Used? N, C and M. Last time I was there they had one ME 
 Super and one 135mm Takumar and 0 MF and there prices were high.
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RE: 77mm 1.8 vs 85 mm f1.4

2002-03-08 Thread Ed Mathews

Sorry,
 I (of course) knew this was a Nikkor lens, and thought it would be
a little light-hearted jab at a lens I wish Pentax would make.  I've
already received a couple of private e-mails from people asking about
this lens.  I thought everyone would get the joke.  Sorry if anyone got
their hopes up. :(  Go ahead, throw your tomatoes now...ducking.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Alan Chan
 Sent: Friday, March 08, 2002 6:41 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: 77mm 1.8 vs 85 mm f1.4
 
 
 There's always the 105 F2.0 DC lens with adjustable spherical 
 abberation.  I hear it's very nice.
 
 I only know Nikkors DC. Never knew Pentax made any. But then 
 DC is not a 
 soft focus lens either.
snip
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RE: The Kodak talk

2002-03-01 Thread Ed Mathews

Hmmm.  This local lab I go to is a small store also.  I wonder if that
might have something to do with their opinion about Kodak films

The only thing that still bothers me a little about what the owner told
me, is that recently, I have had a couple instances of specs on a
random frame of T-Max here and there that I develop myself.  I guess the
jury is still out on this one.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bruce Dayton
 Sent: Friday, March 01, 2002 3:32 AM
 To: Ed Mathews
 Subject: Re: The Kodak talk
 
snip 
 The camera store where I bought my 67II did give me a 
 different Kodak talk.  They have quit carrying Kodak films 
 because of Kodak's requirement of carrying more films than 
 they could sell.  I believe Aaron experienced similar 
 problems.  Because of that, they mostly carry Fuji.
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RE: Switching to Pentax

2002-02-25 Thread Ed Mathews

And this little piece of junk also has a mirror pre-fire.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Robb
 Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 9:51 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Switching to Pentax
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Ed Mathews
 Subject: RE: Switching to Pentax
 
 
  I'm not saying this just to be a anti Pentax jerk, but I
 feel I need
  to state it:  My late father's one and only SLR was a new
 Nikon EM, and
  I still have it, and my kids still use it when they want to
 shoot with
  an SLR.  It has NEVER seen a CLA, and I've replaced the
 battery only
  twice.  It exposes perfectly and has never failed or produced
 a negative
  I could say was bad due to the camera.  AND it accepts all
 my
  current AF Nikkor lenses with full camera functions.  I
 suspect many
  could say the same about their old K-1000 too.  Inexpensive
 does not
  necessarily mean junk.
 
 The camera that goes byup, byup. My wifes old boss had one of 
 those. The only problem with the EM was that it was AE only. 
 It was actually a pretty tough little camera. A knowedgable 
 operator could set the aperture where he wanted it, then dial 
 in the shutter speed using the ISO dial. The advantage of the 
 EM was that it didn't have the flexible curcuit board that 
 the FG/ FG20 had, which is what made that series so 
 unreliable. The downside is that full camera functions is 
 pretty limited on that camera.
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RE: Switching to Pentax

2002-02-24 Thread Ed Mathews

All AF Nikkors have always had an aperture lock.  And Nikon has great
compatibility amongst most of their bodies.  I can use all my current AF
lenses on my 20 year old F3 with full function, and old AI lenses from
the 70's work fine on my F100.  Sure, they have some issues with their
amateur line cameras, but the people that buy those are by and large not
looking for complete compatibility with old stuff anyway.  And Pentax
has some issues with some of their cheapest AF bodies also.  I think
both Pentax and Nikon need to be commended on their compatibility
between most bodies for older and newer items working together,
especially comparing AF and non AF items.  They are in a different
league than Canon and Minolta in this regard.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Robb
 Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 10:22 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Switching to Pentax
snip
 That was one of those things I never did figure out. Minolta 
 MD lenses had an aperture lock, as did Canon FD lenses, and 
 of course Pentax A lenses. Nikon, in their wisdom, never 
 added this to their lenses. Interestingly, it has been the 
 aperture coupling that has buggered up Nikons lens/body 
 intercompatability, which is very Hoover like, with entire 
 lens series being unusable on most bodies since the advent of 
 the AI lenses. It was this incompatability issue that helped 
 drive me from Nikon to Pentax in the first place.
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RE: Switching to Pentax

2002-02-24 Thread Ed Mathews

I'm not saying this just to be a anti Pentax jerk, but I feel I need
to state it:  My late father's one and only SLR was a new Nikon EM, and
I still have it, and my kids still use it when they want to shoot with
an SLR.  It has NEVER seen a CLA, and I've replaced the battery only
twice.  It exposes perfectly and has never failed or produced a negative
I could say was bad due to the camera.  AND it accepts all my
current AF Nikkor lenses with full camera functions.  I suspect many
could say the same about their old K-1000 too.  Inexpensive does not
necessarily mean junk.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of T Rittenhouse
 Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 7:20 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Switching to Pentax
 
 
 At one time the was the Nikon F. It was the only SLR Nikon 
 made. The made two RFs back in those days but the difference 
 was features, not quality. Nikon meant quality. Then 
 Marketing looked around and said, Nikon means quality, we 
 will produce junk cameras with the Nikon name on them, the 
 unwashed will not know the difference. An behold, they were 
 right, the unwashed show you their EM and said it's a Nikon! 
 Then all the other Makers, said this is good! And proceed to 
 make all kinds of cameras with their names on them. Most were 
 cheap junk, but a few who were known for cheap junk actually 
 made quality cameras and put their names on them. The fell by 
 the wayside for the unwashed said, look how much they want 
 for that cheap junk camer when I can get a Nikon for half the price.
 
 The moral of this story? The unwashed get what they deserve, screwed.
snip 
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RE: Portra Films

2002-02-23 Thread Ed Mathews

I've been using Portra 160NC lately, and found the color to very, very
neutral.  My negative scans are also excellent with this film, so maybe
my scanner is also matched to Kodak? g.  It just seems like a great
film to me, and exposure has been terrific at the rated 160.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of tom
 Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2002 1:42 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Portra Films
 
 
 I went to the lab today to pick up some color proofs, and the 
 guy who owns and runs the place took me aside.
 
 Tom, we need to have the Portra talk.
snip
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RE: Adorama RC paper?

2002-02-22 Thread Ed Mathews

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of tom
 Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 3:24 PM
snip
 Cheapskate.

Hey, I really represent that comment.

 What's the job?

Some really cool promotional action shots I'm doing for my coworkers in
the porn industry.  You wouldn't believe what that stuff looks like with
high speed flash synch at 1/8000. g

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: PMA News

2002-02-22 Thread Ed Mathews

You can buy one here:

http://www.canogacamera.com/e/env/0001-435951-2967599013-77566631-2247-9
z5O3/price_list/grp074_75_list.html?link=%2e%2e/info_pages/cam_info.html
item=invnew:27083

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Butch Black
 Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 8:10 PM
 To: Pentax discussion group
 Subject: RE: PMA News
 
 
 For those that are interested Digital Photography Review; 
 www.dpreview.com has some info on the Nikon D-100. Of most 
 interest is their listing it as a prosumer model with 
 competitive pricing, but no list price available yet.
snip
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RE: Taking an interlude from the PDML.

2002-02-20 Thread Ed Mathews

Godspeed, my friend.

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: auth 584e5e78 subscribe pentax-discuss thewho_@hotmail.com

2002-02-17 Thread Ed Mathews

So, you were the who AKA, Gregory all along?  

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Oliver Raymond
 Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 12:56 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: auth 584e5e78 subscribe pentax-discuss 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 bugger. i guess the secrets out... I am an idiot...
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Oliver Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 12:50 PM
 Subject: auth 584e5e78 subscribe pentax-discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
  auth 584e5e78 subscribe pentax-discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
  
  _
  Join the world's largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. 
  http://www.hotmail.com
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RE: Popular Photography 31/1.8 Limited test (WAS: Re: Pentax a best ever prime lens at Pop?)

2002-02-17 Thread Ed Mathews

No, it's not lines per millimeter, it's their SQF numbers.  SQF is Pop
Photo's Subjective Quality Factor.  It's a number based on MTF and
converted to a system meant to show what you should expect in different
size enlargements.  It's like a grade in a class you take, where 90 + is
an A, 80-89 is a B, etc.  It's just meant to make it easier to see where
the strengths and weaknesses are, and see how big an enlargement you can
make before you lose grade A quality.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of T Rittenhouse
 Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 8:03 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Popular Photography 31/1.8 Limited test (WAS: 
 Re: Pentax a best ever prime lens at Pop?)
 
 
 lpm
snip
 - Original Message -
 From: Dan Scott [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2002 6:32 PM
 Subject: RE: Popular Photography 31/1.8 Limited test (WAS: 
 Re: Pentax a best ever prime lens at Pop?)
 
 
  Ed,
 
  What does the number between the f/stop and the letter grade stand 
  for?
snip
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MZ-S and infrared

2002-02-15 Thread Ed Mathews

Has anybody actually tried to shoot high speed infrared with the MZ-S
yet?  How much fogging?

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: Misfocussing with 43mm limited?

2002-02-12 Thread Ed Mathews

No, I've never even heald a PZ-1 or PZ-1N.  I used to own an SF-1 and an
SF-1N, and don't remember any problem with them.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 11:48 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: Misfocussing with 43mm limited?
 
 
 Ed,
  Maybe it's time for the MZ-Sn?  In any case this is very bad.  
  Do you have any experience with the PZ-1p or the PZ-1?  
 I haven't used the 43mm or 77mm much on these bodies.  I 
 guess that I'll have to check it out.
snip 
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RE: Misfocussing with 43mm limited?

2002-02-12 Thread Ed Mathews

Nope - it's not that.  The central sensor is all I ever use on my ZX-5N
because the outer ones suck at locking on to most things I shoot.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Paris, Leonard
 Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 12:12 PM
 To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
 Subject: RE: Misfocussing with 43mm limited?
 
 
 I'd rather think that the problems are being caused by 
 unfamiliarity with cameras using more than a central area for 
 autofocussing.  I got so used to locking focus on my subject 
snip
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RE: Part for Besler Enlarger

2002-02-12 Thread Ed Mathews

http://www.beseler-photo.com/

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of T Rittenhouse
 Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 7:07 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Part for Besler Enlarger
 
 
 Beselar is still in business, and most of the parts are 
 interchangable. I do not have the URL, try a google search.
snip
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RE: True professional

2002-02-10 Thread Ed Mathews

That's a bit of a stretch.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Ken Archer

 A photographer becomes a professional like a girl becomes a 
 prostitute. 
  First, he does it to please himself, then to please friends and 
 finally for money.--Arthur Rothstein
snip 
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RE: Held an MZ-S last night...

2002-02-06 Thread Ed Mathews

No. A diopter adjustment can only help with near and far-sightedness -
not astigmatism.  Astigmatism is caused by a cornea that is not
spherical and has flat spots or steep spots, or any combination of
these.  It is highly individualized and specific to a portion of the
eyeball, and no camera viewfinder an correct for it.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Stephen Moore
snip 
 I've also got a mild astigmatism, so the NOT(wink) question 
 I've been wanting to ask for a long time is whether a simple 
 diopter would help me (e.g., getting an FA-1W for the LX)?
snip 
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RE: Why do you choose or stay in Pentax ?

2002-02-02 Thread Ed Mathews

Yes.  I thought I quoted that portion of Cesar's message.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of tom
 Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2002 10:41 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Why do you choose or stay in Pentax ?
snip
 I thought Ed was talking about the Nikon 105Cesar said he only 
 really liked one of his Nikons, Ed asked if it were the 105.
snip
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RE: Why do you choose or stay in Pentax ?

2002-02-01 Thread Ed Mathews

105 F2.5?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of 
 Matamoros, Cesar A.
 Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 10:39 AM
 To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
 Subject: RE: Why do you choose or stay in Pentax ?
 
snip
  I also have a Nikon F3 system that was 
 given to me.  There is one lens that stands out from the 
 rest, 
snip
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Double sided Inkjet paper?

2002-01-29 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi,
 Does anybody know if any manufacturer makes an injet paper that's
suitable for photos, and double sided?

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: FA 28-70/f4 AL why not F2.8?

2002-01-29 Thread Ed Mathews

All this discussion is based on assuming that the lens would open to
F2.8 to begin with, which may not be the case at all.  Sure, you can see
the aperture mechanism reduce itself as you zoom toward the short end,
but how do you know it would go to F2.8?  What if it only went to F3.5?
In that case, it certainly would make a lot more sense to keep it a
constant F4.0.  Personally, I'd have a hard time believing that this
lens, with it's size and weight, could ever manage an F2.8.

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: P67II or P645n

2002-01-26 Thread Ed Mathews

How often will you be making enlargements bigger than 16x20?  Ever
seen a 30x40 enlargement from a 35mm slide original using a 4x5
internegative?  I also keep asking myself if I need medium format.
Lately I've been selling off equipment I seldom use, so I've got this
little stash in my camera account.  Medium Format is something I've
been considering, but I have to tell you - now that I've actually got
the money to go and get it if I want to - I don't feel I need it.
Enlargements from 4x5 internegatives can be VERY impressive also.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bruce Dayton
 Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 4:30 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: P67II or P645n
 
snip
I can say that all MF shots had it all over the 35mm stuff. 
snip
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RE: new pics

2002-01-25 Thread Ed Mathews

I do love that baby in the crib.  Brilliant.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Timo Hartikainen
 Sent: Friday, January 25, 2002 1:47 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: OT: new pics
 
 
 Hi!
 I have some new pics at my homepage; 
 http://pp.hok.fi/hartikainen/kuvasivu.htm
 
 -- Timo
 
 
 _
 Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
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RE: What lens do you wish Pentax made?

2002-01-22 Thread Ed Mathews

A quality portrait lens around 105mm, Maybe F2 or F2.8.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: What lens do you wish Pentax made?

2002-01-22 Thread Ed Mathews

I should have added: with AF.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
 Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 1:01 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: What lens do you wish Pentax made?
 
 
 Would you not consider the K105/2.8, or the SMC Tak version, 
 a quality portrait lens?
 
 Ed Mathews wrote:
  
  A quality portrait lens around 105mm, Maybe F2 or F2.8.
 
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: What lens do you wish Pentax made?

2002-01-22 Thread Ed Mathews

And a special plaque that comes with it, suitable for hanging on my
wall.  Oh, and a free toy (like a happy meal has).

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Brendan
 Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2002 1:15 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: What lens do you wish Pentax made?
 
 
 He wants a 101mm limited Prime in titanium with one of
 those green leather soft cases and non removable
 hoods.
snip 
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RE: Vs: Michael A.'s an ASS

2002-01-21 Thread Ed Mathews

And Michael is basically driving last year's car.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Christian 
 Skofteland
 Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 11:08 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Vs: Michael A.'s an ASS
snip
 Kimi's going to be good, for sure, but will he beat Schumi 
 this year?  I 
 doubt it.  By the way, your yong Finn was unable to keep up 
 the pace.  Yes, 
 he has the track record but in the subsequent testing days 
 when Michael was 
 driving he failed to finish first in the times again.  
snip
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RE: SMCP-67 75mm f2.8 AL bokeh examples

2002-01-21 Thread Ed Mathews

I think a lot of lenses do this, and most of us have never noticed.
Maybe we discovered it here?  Should we call this PDML Distortion?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Aaron Reynolds
 Sent: Monday, January 21, 2002 7:54 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: SMCP-67 75mm f2.8 AL bokeh examples
snip 
 Yeah, that's what I was getting at.  So, I suppose my 75 and your 77 
 have some things in common, eh?  Except mine's a moderate 
 wide angle and 
 yours is a short telephoto...
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RE: OT - Insanity test

2002-01-19 Thread Ed Mathews

Yes, now I recall.  Seems the Porsche TAG McClaren was the most reliable
of the bunch, and the BMW inline 4 in the Brabham was the most
powerfull.  Hard to imagine all that power in 1.5 liters.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Christian 
 Skofteland
 Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 7:50 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: OT - Insanity test
 
 
 Those were turbo V-6's in the early '80's.  1500hp in 
 qualifying trim tuned down to 1000 in race trim  Amazing. 
  Michael Schumacher drove one as a publicity thing a couple 
 of years ago and was scared of the power and the way it is so 
 different than his modern ride.
snip
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RE: OT: Rubens (Was: Re: Insanity test)

2002-01-19 Thread Ed Mathews

He uses the same brutally honest approach in defense of his womanizing
off the track too, and that seems to works for him also.  Nobody can say
he's not having his fun while he can. :)

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Matjaz Osojnik
 Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2002 11:20 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: OT: Rubens (Was: Re: Insanity test)
 
 
 Yep. I liked Irvine for the same reason.
 
 Matjaz
 
  Star and Stooges  I like it!  You've hit it right on!  I always 
  liked Eddie Irvine because he took the money and sucked up 
 to Michael 
  without pretending that it was anything else...  Don't get 
snip
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RE: drying FB prints...

2002-01-16 Thread Ed Mathews

Speaking of dry down, someone should do a test to see what papers suffer
the most from this.  I'm currently using Ilford MG FB and it seems to
suffer badly from this.  In fact, it appears to darken slightly even
while wet and sitting in the fix or the Permawash.  To get a print where
I want it, I have to underexpose the paper to the point where I never
believe it's ever going to come around, but it does when it's dry.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Johnson
 Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 11:15 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: drying FB prints...
 
 
 He did, to check for dry down, but only used it for work 
snip
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RE: drying FB prints...

2002-01-15 Thread Ed Mathews

So let me get this straight:  You lay the wet prints on the screen and
then cover them with a towel?  Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the
screen (to allow air to circulate above and below them)?  How long does
it take to dry a DW print that way?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of William Robb
 Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 11:44 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: drying FB prints...
 
snip
 You can dry them face down on fiberglass window screens (wash 
 the screens well first to ensure there is no chaff on them). 
 I usually just lay out a large well washed bath towel on the 
 deep freeze outside my darkroom and put them face down on it, 
 then lay another towel on top. The only problem with this is 
 that sometimes the cat likes to sleep on the towel. Neither 
 of these methods will give the high gloss that you are 
 getting from the hot dryer. More like a low lustre. I prefer 
 it to the high gloss, and the prints are easier to spot, and 
 not as brittle.
snip
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RE: OT: drying FB prints...

2002-01-15 Thread Ed Mathews

That's very similar to the drying rack I built, but I made it with black
fiberglass screens stretched over wood frames.  Notice that they have
the print facing up, and for Fiber papers you should dry them print side
down for less curl.  It works pretty well, but you certainly will still
get some curl.  I usually make prints on 8x10 paper, so I just put
them in a large heavy book after they are dry - to flatten them out
nicely.  But if I recall, the original post was referring to larger
prints, which would require a book probably bigger than what is
available.  I've had that problem with 11x14 prints also, so I'm
looking for a solution as well. 

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
 Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 12:41 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: OT: drying FB prints...
 
 
 Here's something that takes Bill's suggestion and expands 
 upon it somewhat.  I've seen something similar recently - and 
 if good fortune abounds I may be able to pick it for free - 
 but in in any case, I'm sure you can use your imagination and 
 creativity to build something similar for very little cost.
 
http://www.infomaniak.ch/~bonavolt/papdryer.htm

snip
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RE: drying FB prints...

2002-01-15 Thread Ed Mathews

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2002 7:06 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: drying FB prints...
 
 
 We first put ours in a photo blotter book until they are 
 mostly dry and then 
 lay them out to air dry, like overnight.  Yes there is a bit 
snip 

Where do you get a photo blotter or blotter paper these days?  I stopped
in a local mall art supply store (Art Emporium) yesterday and they have
never carried blotter paper.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: OT -- Really nasty virus around (defending MS)

2002-01-13 Thread Ed Mathews

I don't use Outlook Express, but I do use Outlook.  Why?  Because I can
drag and drop any e-mail, task, appointment, or note into another folder
and work with it there as it becomes that new item, or drag and drop
between other MS applications and it all works smooth for me.  I've
never gotten a virus from any e-mail where I did not open the
attachment, and the program also offers ways to disable the windows that
offer the possibility of catching a virus.  Furthermore, MS is aware of
security leaks when they exist, and they are fast to respond with
patches for them.  Overall, I feel MS makes a good product, with decent
cooperation between applications, and I think the biggest reason that
these viruses are written for MS products in the first place, is because
of their popularity.  Who's going to write a virus for an e-mail product
that few people even use?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek
 Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2002 7:15 AM
 To: Robert Harris
 Subject: Re: OT -- Really nasty virus around
snip
 Even though my reply is even more off-topic, but I don't 
 understand why people still use OE when they could for a few 
 bucks buy an email client which is almost absolutely (well, 
 nothing is absolute in virus/hacking/cracking world) 
 resistant to script/html/exe/screensaver virus attacks. There 
snip
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RE: website - actual link

2002-01-11 Thread Ed Mathews

Excellent site, Alexey.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Alexey Tikhonov
 Sent: Friday, January 11, 2002 5:34 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: OT: website - actual link
 
 
 Hello
 
 forgetting the link was a good thing to do, hehe;)
 
http://www.altert.spb.ru/gallery/exhibitions.html

  

-- 
Best regards,
 Alexey  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Eye relief on MZ-S

2002-01-10 Thread Ed Mathews

Hey,
 Being a spectacle wearer, I wrote to Pentax Colorado and asked them
about the eyepoint on the MZ-S, as compared to something I own, the
ZX-5N.  They replied, the eye relief is about 5mm greater than that of
the ZX-5n.  I've spent very limited time with the MZ-S, so I can't
recall that this feels about right in my experience, but it seems a
little exaggerated to me.  What is the opinion of people out there that
own both cameras? 

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)

2002-01-06 Thread Ed Mathews

OK Yoshihiko, I'll accept this explanation from you and Dan (mostly
because I don't know any better myself and trust others on this).  But I
do wonder why I have only noticed it with the 43 and the 77.  At some
point, I would also like to see some sort of illustration showing what
spherical aberration looks like, if possible.  I've become intrigued by
it and way too interested in it for my own good.

I'm still considering buying an MZ-S, mainly so I can keep this 77
because I like it so much.  As I sell more stuff and actually get the
money, that decision might become even more difficult.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Yoshihiko Takinami
 Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 5:07 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)
 
 
 Hi Ed and everyone,
SNIP
 It's not bokeh but just vignetting as Dan wrote.
 
 BTW, I was really impressed at the very smooth outlines of 
 the football shapes of out-of-focus background spotlights 
 while you stopped down about one and a half stops.
 
 Hope this helps.
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RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)

2002-01-06 Thread Ed Mathews

Yup.  And pretty edgy for sure.  Seems you have a lot off bad bokeh
luck. :)

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Rob Studdert
 Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 11:08 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)
snip 
 Ed,
 
 See http://pug.komkon.org/00marc/tracy.htm same thing but 
 with my 50 f/1.2, a 
 little bit more edgy though.
snip
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RE: Your favorite model, your ideal model

2002-01-06 Thread Ed Mathews

I can see why she would be your favorite model, Pat.  I think she just
became my favorite model also. :)

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Pat White
 Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2002 4:27 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Your favorite model, your ideal model
 
 
 My favorite model was, and is, my ex-girlfriend, who's been 
 posing for me for seven years now, in spite of a succession 
 of boyfriends.  As an esthetician, she knows plenty about 
 makeup, and she really enjoys posing, occasionally asking me 
 to come over and shoot her.  When I used to rent studios, 
 before I set up at home, she would split the cost of the 
 shoot with me, including studio rental!  We've shot for hours 
 at a time, indoors and out, and I now have over 2000 pictures 
 of her, one of which was published in the French magazine 
 PHOTO, and is still on their website, under 'resultats du 
 concours newton', or directly, at:  
 www.photo.fr/concours/gagnantsnewton/gagnants2 .html
 .  Not 
 all the photos are as shocking/daring as that 
 one (we do a lot of fashion shots as well), and I hope to see 
 some less controversial ones in print in the future.
 
 I've hired pros in the past, with mixed results.  For nudes, 
 I somtimes felt shy to ask someone I'd just met for certain 
 poses, and I found that willing to pose nude doesn't always 
 mean ought to pose nude, so three recommended pros didn't 
 get a second session.  The best-looking pro, on the other 
 hand, did great fashion and portrait work with me, but 
 refused to do nudes.
 
 Also, pro models often have little desire to contribute their 
 own ideas, while with my favorite model, it was always a 
 collaboration, so that she was my muse as much as my model.  
 While some shooters approach each session with a 
 predetermined image in their mind (so do I, occasionally), I 
 often try various things, and 'know it when I see it'.  For 
 this to work, I have to have a relationship (working or 
 otherwise) with the model, so each session tends to be better 
 than the last, as we get to know each other.
 
 As for dream models, I'd like a session with Nadja Auerman, 
 the German former super-model (see the book Nadja, with 
 pictures of her by nearly all the top fashion shooters).
 
 Pat White
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RE: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)

2002-01-05 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi Kristian,
 Yes, I saw it with the 43 also, and your photo shows it nicely.
And it's a quality I've seen in photos taken with Leica lenses too.
It's well discussed that great bokeh has been associated with a degree
of spherical aberration, and in fact the 105 F2 DC Nikkor portrait lens
actually allows the user to dial in some spherical aberration.  Since
what we're looking at happens differently off axis, and appears to
revolve around the center axis of the lens, I wonder if this is indeed
just a picture of spherical aberration?  This is probably why the lens
exhibits such nice background blur at larger apertures with smooth
transitions when there are no real highlights but just more even tones.
Is it literally distorting the background and blurring it into the next
tone like an artist who would be smearing wet paint?  We need a lens
guru for this one.  

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Kristian Walsh
 Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2002 6:13 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: 77 specular bokeh talk (again!)
 
 
 Hi Ed,
 
 I agree, and I've seen this with pictures taken with the 43 too. The 
 only example I have isn't as clear-cut as yours, but if you 
 compare the 
 shape of the spots in the top right to those at the top of 
 the frame  in:
 
 http://homepage.mac.com/walshk/moira.jpeg
 
 ...you might see it.
 
 The distortion is very slight, and I only notice the squashing of the 
 highlights with the lens wide open. Once stopped down, it's very 
 difficult to see a difference. Nothing I'm losing sleep over, and far 
 outweighed by the wonderful pictures this lens produces...
 
 --
 Kristian
 
 
 On Saturday, January 5, 2002, at 10:26  pm, Ed Mathews wrote:
 
  Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the 
 water.  A week 
  or so ago there was some limited g discussion about the 
 Nikon 105, 
  it's bokeh, and the 77 bokeh.  I mentioned that the 77 yields nice 
  bokeh, with some football (American football) shaped highlights.  
  Nobody commented about that, and probably nobody understood what I 
  meant.  So I thought I'd take a picture of my Christmas tree lights 
  out of focus to show you.
 
  This is background bokeh, with the brightest lights about 7 
 feet away, 
  and the lens focused to about 3 feet.  In this shot, the lens is at 
  F2.8.  In other shots I took at smaller apertures, the 
 highlights of 
  course get smaller, and the football shapes start to get more round.
 
  It appears to me that the shape becomes more oblong closer to the 
  edge, and that they kind of look like they circle around the center 
  axis. Tell me what you think.
 
  http://lightandsilver.com/Temp/77.htm
 
  Thanks,
  Ed
  http://lightandsilver.com
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tonerbuys.com

2002-01-03 Thread Ed Mathews

Has anybody here ever delt with these people?

http://www.tonerbuys.com/

  It looks like generic ink to me, but the prices are incredible!  My
normal black cartrige for my Epson 740 usually sells for close to
$30.00, and here it's $5.50.  I wonder if it's OK for just printing
regular words on regular paper. 

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: Web Page Development

2002-01-01 Thread Ed Mathews

I'm just a stupid novice, so my opinion is admittedly not worth much,
but I've been using Frontpage since 1998 and have never had a problem.
I used Frontpage 98 up until about 6 months ago and then switched to
Frontpage 2002.  I skipped over Frontpage 2000, but there's not much
difference between 98 and 2002, so I can't imagine it's too different.
It's not the most powerful program out there I'm sure, but I've never
lost anything, or had any problems with it on my Toshibas.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of aimcompute
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 6:02 PM
 To: Pentax Discuss
 Subject: Web Page Development
 
 
 Hi Gang,
 
 I know there's been some discussion quite recently about HTML 
 editors and web page development tools,  but I've been paying 
 little attention.  I've been using FrontPage 2000 and am 
 ABSOLUTELY FED UP with it.
 
 Among other things, when using shared borders and saving a 
 file, it is very easy to lose contents that have been present 
 for days.
 
 Can someone give me the recommendations for editors.  Are 
 there any free ones out there that have a good amount of power?
 
 Since I'm a developer, I have no real desire to now code my 
 own HTML as well.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Tom C.
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RE: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2002-01-01 Thread Ed Mathews

The negative stage does not move on the 23CII when adjusting for
different formats, the light source and condenser lenses above it do the
moving.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Tom Rittenhouse
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 4:50 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
 
 
 'Cept that don't work with a Beseler condenser head. The 
 Beseler moves the negative stage up and down the cone of 
 light until it just covers the negative area. The enlarger 
 works pretty well if you have the neg higher up than optimum 
 but you lose some light intensity, if the neg is to lower it 
 won't have enough coverage.
 
 Ciao,
 graywolf
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 2:21 PM
 Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Shel Belinkoff
  Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
 
 
   OK, I understand the math ... but what is the diffuser?  How
  do I
   measure it?  Where do I find it?
 
  On a colour head, the diffuser is the white plastic or opal 
 glass that 
  sits just above the negative carrier. Condensor heads, by 
 definition 
  don't have diffuser discs, but you can measure the diameter of the 
  bottom condensor to get an approximation of the coverage the light 
  source is capable of. William Robb
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RE: Interesting lens design bokeh explained

2002-01-01 Thread Ed Mathews

Rob,
 I've seen this shot of yours before, and indeed it is ugly.  But
these OOF areas have an edge to them that is more defined and dense than
the inner surrounding area, more like a donut produced by a mirror lens.
No Nikkor or Pentax lens that I have has ever exhibited that.  And if I
recall, you had said before that this was a 50mm Nikkor?  I've got an
AIS 50mm F1.4 and an AF 50mm F1.8 and neither is close to being like
what you show here.  To me, the 77 produces oval or egg shaped specular
highlights which are smooth and equal in density from edge to center.  I
think they exhibit some coma also because their shape changes in
different parts of the frame.  I've seen similar results from some Leica
glass.  I guess some like it and some don't.  In non specular OOF areas,
the transitions are very smooth, and there's nothing to dislike about
that by anybody.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Rob Studdert
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2002 7:39 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: Interesting lens design  bokeh explained
 
 
 On 1 Jan 2002 at 17:52, Ed Mathews wrote:
 
  It is very personal indeed.  I found the bokeh on all the 
 shots to be 
  very pretty, and very similar to what I get with the 77 F1.8 Ltd. 
  Highlights take on a very distinct and recognizable 
 circular pattern.
 
 Hi Ed,
 
 Ok, my favourite lenses produce an indiscernible melding of 
 the images OOF 
 back/fore ground, I don't wish the OOF areas to have shape of 
 their own, this 
 is why I find this image so distracting. If the 77Ltd behaves 
 like this I'm not 
 interested in it one iota. See my classic Nikkor 50f1.4 
 woeful bokeh shot:
 
http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/bw0503.jpg

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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RE: Pentax New Year's Predictions?

2001-12-31 Thread Ed Mathews

Yeah, what he said.  And I'll add that in addition to what Dan said
about the criticisms:

1.  They'll be pockets of people defending whatever they (Pentax) do or
don't do.
2.  Some will threaten to sell all their gear because of it.
3.  Some will ACTUALLY sell all their gear.
4.  Some people will buy lots of older gear from the above people.
5.  Some will buy the new stuff and praise it.
6.  Some will buy the new stuff and criticise it.
7.  Few who buy anything new or used, will find that it actually
improved their photography.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Daniel J. Matyola
 Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 2:19 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Pentax New Year's Predictions?
 
 
 I predict a blizzard of speculation on new Pentaz products 
 for 2002, many quite sophisticated.  I also predict that 
 Pentax will introduce 2 or 3 modest innovations, which will 
 be throroughly criticized by the list for failure to include 
 all the wonderful things we had wished for.
 
 Dan
snip
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Interesting lens design bokeh explained

2001-12-31 Thread Ed Mathews

Sorry that this is referring to a Nikkor, but this makes a real
interesting read for anybody interested in bokeh:

http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/society/nikkor/n05_e.htm

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: Outdated Oriental Seagull

2001-12-31 Thread Ed Mathews

Shel,
 That's some of the best paper ever made.  Ansel was fond of it.
Just 2 days ago I printed an 11x14 on old Oriental VC FB that was at
least 5 years old.  I had some new oriental in 8x10, and just for kicks
I cut a sheet up and used it for test strips to see how close it was
before I wasted a sheet of the old stuff.  It was within 10%, and the
tones and contrast were identical.
 Go forth and enjoy the cold tone and brilliant white.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
 Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:28 PM
 To: Pentax List
 Subject: Outdated Oriental Seagull
 
 
 I recently acquired some new darkroom equipment, and, along 
 with the hardware I got a few packages of Oriental Seagull 
 graded paper, fiber base.  Some packages were opened, some 
 not.  All were kept in a cool dark room.  These packages have 
 to be at least five or six years old, and certainly go back 
 to the time before Oriental stopped exporting to the US, and 
 long before Cachet was marketing a product with the Oriental name.
 
 So, what problems might I expect from a paper this old?  Loss 
 of speed? 
 Reduced or increased contrast? Fogging?  While I know that I 
 can just expose a few sheets and see what the results are, it 
 would be nice to have some idea of what to expect.  
 
 Thanks!
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users

2001-12-30 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi Shel,
 I use a 23CII, but I've replaced the original condenser head with
an Aristo cold light source.  I used it for several years with the
condenser lenses though.  The bellows adjustment is there in order to
adjust the light source for even distribution and focusing of the point
light source over the negative, depending on the size of the film you
have to cover and the standard enlarging lens.  If using an 80mm lens
for 35mm work, I would think that leaving it in the position for 35mm
film would cause the light rays to converge too much, and not in the
proper place under the lens.  But really, the best way to check this is
to raise the enlarger up to the highest point you can, put a large white
sheet of paper in the easel, and then without a negative in the carrier,
just look at the distribution of light.   Adjust the bellows to be in
the position where the best coverage occurs.
 As others have said, the filter drawer is for VC filters, color
filters, or as you mention - heat absorbing glass.  I bought a piece of
that special heat absorbing glass from Beseler.  It cost an arm and a
leg.  Since I'm using cold light now, I don't have it installed, so let
me know if you want it cheap.
 Also, when using the cold light head with the diffused light
source, it's interesting that the bellows adjustment no longer really
does anything, because the light is no focused with the condenser lenses
any longer.  So I moved it to the lowest position and it allows me to
raise the enlarger higher for bigger enlargements under my low ceiling. 

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
 Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 2:51 AM
 To: Pentax List
 Subject: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
 
 
 I just picked up a fine Beseler 23CII condenser enlarger to 
 complement the dichro head model that I have.  There's an 
 adjustment on it that allows the condenser to be moved up and 
 down relative to the negative, and it's marked for different 
 formats - 8/16/35mms and 110; 2¼x2¼, etc. 
 Essentially it's self explanatory, but I do have a question: 
 if a longer lens, such as an 80mm is used instead of a normal 
 50mm lens for 35mm work, should the condenser be moved to the 
 2¼x2¼ position?
 
 There's a drawer above the condenser that looks like it's for 
 VC filters, or for heat absorbing glass.  Is that correct, or 
 is there another purpose for that drawer?
 
 Man, it's a neat machine!
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/
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RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.

2001-12-30 Thread Ed Mathews

I have to strongly agree with JC here.  Scanning is the way to go with
old prints.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of J. C. O'Connell
 Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 12:32 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
 
 
 WHY NOT SCAN THEM AND PRINT DIGITAL?
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Malcolm Smith
  Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
  
  
  Hi everyone,
  
  My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken 
 many years 
  ago (all B  W). She only has it for a few more days, and 
 I'd love to 
  copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a 
 camera stand, 
  but I don't, so
  any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 
 50mm F1.2.
  
  I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush.
  
  Malcolm
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Double messages

2001-12-28 Thread Ed Mathews

Is anybody else getting sporadic double messages, sometimes at the same
time, sometimes days apart?

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: 28-80 range zooms. Which One?

2001-12-28 Thread Ed Mathews

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Carlos Royo
 Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 1:03 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: 28-80 range zooms. Which One?
snip
(about the FA28-70)
 really low corner resolution at 28 mm. 4.0. Distortion is not 
 very important, and it is the best 28-70 zoom in its price 
 range. If you want to spend a little more, you can look for a 
snip

Carlos, 
What do you mean by, distortion is not very important?  This zoom has
quite a bit of distortion at the 28mm end, and that may be very
important to some people.  I agree it's one of the best standard zooms
around, but it is far from distortion free at anywhere except around
40mm.

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: 28-80 range zooms. Which One?

2001-12-28 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi Carlos,
 I wasn't trying to give you a hard time or disagree with you -
basically I also feel it's a great lens.  It was your wording I wanted
to clarify.  For the record, I've had a few pictures ruined by linear
distortion that were not really architectural in nature, and I think the
28-70 has a fair amount of barrel distortion compared to others in it's
class.  Damn aspherics!  But it is indeed very sharp.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Carlos Royo
 Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 1:53 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: 28-80 range zooms. Which One?
 
 
 Ed Mathews wrote:
  Carlos,
  What do you mean by, distortion is not very important?  This zoom 
  has quite a bit of distortion at the 28mm end, and that may be very 
  important to some people.  I agree it's one of the best standard 
  zooms around, but it is far from distortion free at anywhere except 
  around 40mm.
  
 
 Hi Ed:
 I didn't say that it is a distortion free lens. It has some 
 distortion at both ends, 28 mm. and 70 mm., but it is not 
 very visible except if you want the better quality in, say, 
 architecture photography, but in such case you would use a 
 prime, not a zoom lens. The FA 28-70 has excellent flare 
 resistance, very good contrast and more than acceptable 
 sharpness for a wide angle to short tele zoom, in my view, 
 and if Philip is looking for a good zoom lens for a budget, I 
 think it is one of the best choices.
 
 --
 Carlos Royo
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
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RE: Let's talk darkrooms, again

2001-12-28 Thread Ed Mathews

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Collin Brendemuehl
 Sent: Friday, December 28, 2001 2:38 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Let's talk darkrooms, again
snip
 stapling some inexpensive vinyl material to the frame.  Then 
 painting the walls black.
snip 

FWIW, If you seal it from light pretty well, and control any light leaks
from the enlarger and safelight, you really don't have to paint it
black.  Paint will only reflect whatever wavelengths are hitting it, not
add any new ones to it.  So in theory, if your safelight is indeed
safe, then your walls could be white and it would not matter.  But
most enlargers do leak some light during exposure, which bounces around,
so I would suggest either a medium gray color overall, or black around
the enlarger area and lighter around the processing area.  You're going
to want to reflect as much of the safelight as possible for viewing
things in the dark, but control the leaks from the enlarger during the
exposure to eliminate any fogging of the paper.  And stick with as pure
a black, white, and gray as possible - without any other colors in it.
That way, when you turn the room lights on - you won't be evaluating the
print in lighting that has a weird cast to it.

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: Aperture Ring Use on MZ-S is a Pain

2001-12-27 Thread Ed Mathews

Hey, I feel like Shel probably does here, just sitting back and enjoying
this PZ1P vs. MZ-S feud, and wondering why anyone would take the time
and effort to try and convince someone else that one is better than the
other.  But, in an effort to be social, I'll quip in here about this
aperture thing.  I have tried to use the aperture control from the dials
instead of the aperture ring on the lens, and I found it totally
unnatural.  I cannot imagine that anything could be easier or more
intuitive than simply turning the aperture ring.  Furthermore, when
stopping down the lens using the DOF preview, you can turn the aperture
ring on the lens and select the aperture based on the apparent DOF
changes you see while spinning through the apertures, forward and
backward, and looking at the changes.  You can't do that with the dials.

OK, I'm ducking, so bring on the rock-throwing

Thanks,
Ed
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MZ-S AF sensitivity to HV?

2001-12-23 Thread Ed Mathews

A while back, someone had written how the MZ-S AF sensors were each
sensitive to both horizontal and vertical lines, because of (I think)
some software design.  Can someone point me to where that information is
explained?  And why doesn't Pentax market it?   

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: Picture mounting and framing...

2001-12-18 Thread Ed Mathews

 I've been through the matted photos in a box scenario. The problems
are that they are not the easiest thing to view and hold, and they wear
and the mattes get dirty with bent corners.
 So I finally decided on a leather zip-up case from Light
Impressions.  I was worried about the acetate over the sheets causing
glare, but that has not been a problem.  The sheets are of very high
quality - not your tyical photo album crap.  I make fiber prints and
then cut off the entire border with my paper cutter.  Then I use this
little gadget that rolls out archival quality dots of glue, go around
the back perimeter of the photo with it and then make a big X in the
middle, and then paste the print down and cover it up with the acetate.
The sheets come in three colors:  Black; White; and Gray.  I've ordered
and tried all three, and like the white the best by far (BW prints
only).  The white is VERY white, so even fiber prints with paper base on
the edge still show a difference and line border up against the sheet.
 I've also successfully taken a couple of the prints off and re-used
the sheets for other prints, but I would not suggest you do it too many
times with the same sheet.
 There.  Now someone's finally answered your damn question.  Happy
now?? :)

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

snip 
 This reminds me that no one answered my portfolio question, 
 so here it is again:
 
 For those of you planning to put together a portfolio (as 
 Mike was suggesting a couple of weeks ago), how do you plan 
 to display it? Matted prints in a box? An album? One of those 
 leather-like sprial binder thingies?
snip 
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RE: 85mm vs 77mm, and 43mm

2001-12-18 Thread Ed Mathews

OK, call me crazy, but I'm in the s-l-o-w process of selling all of my
Pentax equipment, EXCEPT THE 77mm F1.8.  I like that lens so much, that
I'm still considering buying an MZ-S someday (even though I'm really not
that impressed with it) just to have a nice AF body to use it with.
Yes, I realize this idea is stupid, and that I don't need it, and that
it won't even match, and that it looks wasteful and decadent to most
people.  But there is something about it...  Maybe I can buy Cesar's
MZ-S for cheap in a few months after he beats it to a pulp

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
 Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 2:50 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: 85mm vs 77mm, and 43mm
 
snip
 Without being specific, lenses of the same focal length can 
 have differences in bokeh - the out of focus area - contrast, 
 sharpness, the ability to resolve fine detail, light fall 
 off, the relationship of the main subject to depth of field, 
 and color rendition.

snip

 Apart from optical characteristics, one has the physical 
 differences to consider.  The size of a lens may be more 
 important to one person than another.

snip

 So, only you can determine what qualities are important to 
 you.

snip
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RE: Picture mounting and framing...

2001-12-18 Thread Ed Mathews

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of tom
 Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 6:52 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Picture mounting and framing...

snip
 Is this the pleather one? I used one of those for a while...

No, it's real leather.

 Hmm...I think I was using the same book and pages, but with 
 rc prints since I can't get fiber to lay very flat. I used a 
 3M glue stick (as LI recommends). The glue sort of sopped 
 though to the other side if I wasn't very careful, and didn't 
 look very nice. 

This archival roll-on is really cool.  Works great.

 Plus I'd get fingerprints all over the acetate.

Not a problem for me.  I must keep my fingers cleaner than you do for
some reason. :)

   There.  Now someone's finally answered your damn 
 question.  Happy 
  now?? :)
 
 Happy? Not really, I have a bit of a headache and Jeepgirl 
 hasn't spoken to me in at least a month. Plus this stupid 
 cell phone I bought today seems to have a battery life of 
 maybe 6 minutes.

You need to cognitively re-appraise this situation:  Jeepgirl is married
now, and you'd just get yourself into trouble if she was talking to you.
And the longer you talk on a cell phone, the more it costs.  And have
you ever heard that phrase, Please hit me over the head with a hammer,
because it feels so goo when you stop.?

Thanks,
Ed
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RE: Another PDML outing!

2001-12-13 Thread Ed Mathews

Cesar's a great guy.  Great company.  A good time was had by all and I'd
love to do it again.  Maybe someplace safer and prettier next time. :)

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of 
 Matamoros, Cesar A.
 Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2001 10:45 PM
 To: Pentax
 Subject: Another PDML outing!
 
 
   Tuesday afternoon I got together with fellow PDMLer Ed 
 Mathews in Baltimore, Maryland.  What a wonderful time.  The 
 weather was wonderful, except for the slight haze.
 
   We ended up going to an older section of Baltimore and 
 taking some shots around the docks.  This is an area he has 
 always wanted to check out. I am glad I was able to enjoy it 
 too.  I was not even aware that this section existed.  I 
 won't even bring up what we were shooting :-)  It was 
 interesting to see how he was viewing these scenes as opposed to me.
 
   From there we ended up having a wonderful dinner with 
 more talking of things photographic and even the PDML.  I do 
 have to admit we also went off topic:-)  And no, the wine did 
 not help us in that vein.
 
   We ended the evening in the Fell's Point section, the 
 older port section of Baltimore.  This used to be a place I 
 was very familiar with.  It was great walking about and 
 checking it out.
 
   A great send off to my vacation in NYC.
 
   Thanks Ed,
 
   César Matamoros II
   Panama City, Florida
   in New York City for a bit
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RE: 77/18 Ltd.vs. FA* 85/1.4(Was Re: Pentax SMC-FA* 85mm/1.4 IF on E-bay)

2001-12-13 Thread Ed Mathews

I own the 77, and I would suggest you would not be disappointed with it
in any respect.  I only have one 85mm lens to compare it to - an 85mm
F1.8 AF Nikkor, and it takes in approximately the same field of view.
The Nikkor is a rear focusing design, so I don't know if that affects
the focal length at short distances like internal focusing does - I
don't think it should.  So my guess is that the 77 is indeed a little
longer than advertised - maybe in the low 80s.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Brian Walsh
 Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2001 3:18 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: 77/18 Ltd.vs. FA* 85/1.4(Was Re: Pentax SMC-FA* 
 85mm/1.4 IF on E-bay)
 
 
 At portrait distances (say 4 to 6 feet) or at mid-range say 
 10 feet), 
 just how different is the angle of view of the subject 
 lenses? I've seen 
 test reports that suggest that the 77 is actually a bit 
 longer than that, 
 and the 85 is not quite that (at least close in, due to the 
 IF), so they 
 seem like they might be virtually identical in focal length 
 at such focus 
 distances.
 
 Since I use my 85/1.4 essentially only at 10 feet and closer, but I 
 sometimes _carry_ the lens long distances, the lighter-weight 
 Limited lens 
 seems quite attractive. Because the 85/1.4 is--really--the bulk of my 
 family kit, I carry it sometimes when I'm hiking with 
 medium format gear 
 (my I will Create Art kit), even though, on those 
 occasions, I also often 
 carry one member of the family. My four year-old daughter is 
 unlikely to 
 grow lighter; I wonder if my family kit should.
 
 I enjoyed the linked photos, but I still can't decide to sell 
 an excellent 
 lens and buy another excellent (lighter, but shorter?) lens, 
 especially if 
 the focal length is significantly shorter than the length 
 (and what length 
 is that?) that works for me. I'm sorta-kinda leaning towards 
 self-enablement. Should somebody stop me?
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RE: New Pentax digital SLR

2001-12-10 Thread Ed Mathews

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of PÃ¥l Audun Jensen
 Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 4:22 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: New Pentax digital SLR
 
snip 
 They only ones who can justify this cost are people who are producing
lot of images. For  35mm photography these are the photo journalist.
They have heavily invested in Nikon and  Canon lenses and won't switch
to Pentax just because it offers (for the time being) a 
 few Mpix more. Theres no way Pentax can make a viable digital slr
until it reaches 
 prices the amateur can afford. These prices will be reached in a
relative short while 
 but not with that Philips chip.
snip

This seems to me, purely logical, rational, and smart business.  My
thoughts exactly.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 
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RE: MZ-S AF pattern - strange verticals?

2001-12-10 Thread Ed Mathews

This theory could only be considered if everyone held the camera the
same way (shutter release on top, or bottom).  That's about 50/50 from
what I've seen.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Frantisek Vlcek
 Sent: Monday, December 10, 2001 5:51 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: MZ-S AF pattern - strange verticals?
 
 
 Hi,
Just out of curiosity, why do you think (if you find it lacking)
MZ-S lacks a bottom (far-right when vertical) AF point? For me, it
would make AFing portraits pretty difficult, as we (the part of
PDML using Latin alphabet or writing in leftright direction) tend
to read photos from left to right, so an optimized portrait
placing is looking to the left, on right side of frame (if I can
exaggerate it somehow).
 
I am just curious if this missing AF point is beacuse of Japanese
reverse rightleft reading direction. Our reading direction has a
definite impact on reading photographs, and their has probably too.
snip 
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RE: A Fond Memory ...

2001-12-07 Thread Ed Mathews

:) 

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
 Sent: Friday, December 07, 2001 7:07 PM
 To: Pentax List
 Subject: A Fond Memory ...
 
 
 This took place back in 1968.  At the time I had a small 
 photo studio in San Francisco, in the Mission District, and 
 had very little money. 
 Early one day I
 photographed a couple of fish mongers in their shop window, 
 setting out their fish for display.  They were standing in 
 the window, holding a huge fish that was so big that it took 
 both of them to hold it.  Seeing me with my camera, they 
 posed for a photograph, standing in ice above their ankles, 
 wearing high, black rubber  boots and white smocks.  The guys 
 were quite a sight.  Upon returning to the studio I made then 
 an 11x14, and went back to the shop later in the day.  They 
 paid me for the photo with crabs and shrimp and scallops.  
 That night my girlfriend and I opened a bottle of inexpensive 
 white wine, made a salad, and feasted on the generosity of 
 the fish mongers.  The table was a wooden box, set in the 
 middle of the studio,  and we sat on pillows on the floor, 
 savoring every bite of the food and every sip of the wine.
 
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/xmas- story.html
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RE: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-02 Thread Ed Mathews

Wow, that must be one fast baby and some real fast adults too!  Looks
more like 1/6 second to me than 1/60.  Actually, I kind of like the
effect, and I'm note sure I'd like the photo any better if it were
static.  But, I'll admit I'm weird that way.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of John Mustarde
 Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 9:45 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!
 
 
 On Sat, 01 Dec 2001 09:55:25 -0600, you wrote:
 
 Of course, 1/60th sucks as a flash sync speed - 1/100th is bad 
  enough.
 
 Flash sync at 1/60 is inadequate for people in motion. Here's 
 an example of why I try to avoid slow sync speeds:
 
http://www.photolin.com/C-Image014.jpg

snip
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RE: Exposure Difference: SMC-A 50/2.0, SMC-M 135/3.5, SMC-M 200/4

2001-12-02 Thread Ed Mathews

This is not unusual, it is in fact, common that different lenses and
camera combinations result in different exposures.  Sometimes it's the
camera's shutter at certain speeds, and sometimes it's the lens'
particular certain aperture not being exact.  The cumulative effect of
the shutter and aperture errors can be significant, as you found out.  

Advanced BW books often suggest establishing film speeds and
development times by testing every lens individually at each aperture on
the same single camera, and finding where the correct exposure is by
bracketing and establishing where base + fog is on the film verses
maximum density.  Even then, you've only established it for a single
lens and camera combination, and it's also quite possible that your
camera/lens would perform differently in different auto exposure modes,
as well as in manual exposure.  I find this to be a pretty impractical
approach to 35mm shooting, but certainly valid for larger formats.

In a practical sense, you've taken the first step to realizing that you
have some variables that cumulatively add up pretty significantly.  If I
were you, I'd waste a few rolls on a gray card, maybe in the exposure
mode you use most often and see which lenses and apertures perform how,
and just file that information away in your brain for the future in case
you feel the need to want to compensate for it. I would think the
biggest factor in deciding afterwards whether it's an issue or not might
be the type of film you use most often.  With color negative film, it's
probably not an issue at all.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Brent Hutto
 Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 8:44 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Exposure Difference: SMC-A 50/2.0, SMC-M 135/3.5, SMC-M 200/4
snip 
 The bad news is that the exposures were not the same. The shot at 
snip
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RE: strictions on photographing

2001-12-01 Thread Ed Mathews

Much of this depends on how you use the image, how you depict it, and
who finds out.  It's not really where you are standing, so much as
what's in your viewfinder.  I submit some work for stock, and in
addition to needing model releases for every recognizable person, you
also need property releases for recognizable private property.  I don't
worry about it too much on my website, because I'm not making money on
it there, and the photo is not likely to be seen by enough people to
increase the odds that someone will ever complain about it.  But for
commercial work - most agencies are very strict about what's in the
photograph that someone could potentially sue them for.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

snip
  I would think that it would depend where in the world you 
 were. Here 
  in the US there was no restrictions as long as you were on public 
  property. After 9/11, who knows.
snip
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RE: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!

2001-12-01 Thread Ed Mathews

Yeah, what Chris said.   To sum up, it depends on the ambient light
level.  The camera sets a faster sync speed in brighter light and a
slower on in dim light in order to (attempt to) balance the flash and
ambient light better.

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Chris Brogden
 Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2001 1:38 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: HELP: my MZ-5 thinks 1/60th is a great flash sync speed!
 
 
 On Fri, 30 Nov 2001, Tom Rittenhouse wrote:
 
  I think that your camera is actually using 1/100 sec. but 
 the dislay 
  does not have that speed so it shows the next lower speed.
 
 No, the display shows that speed.  I noticed this with the 
 MZ-7 a few days ago... it seems to set a sync speed of 1/15 
 to 1/45 when used on the fully automatic mode indoors, which 
snip 
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RE: Re[2]: Illegal Street Photography?

2001-12-01 Thread Ed Mathews

But is this the same or similar law that HCB himself sited in order to
keep the recent photos of himself in Faceless by David Douglas Duncan?
He was successful in keeping that from being available in France, right?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Bob Walkden
 Sent: Friday, November 30, 2001 8:50 PM
 To: frank theriault
 Subject: Re[2]: Illegal Street Photography?
 
 
 Hi,
 
 I go to talks by big name photographers quite frequently, and 
 have been to several by Magnum photographers and they all 
 moan like hell about it. As the article says, it makes HCB a criminal.
snip
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RE: Interesting question about digital: Infrared

2001-08-21 Thread Ed Mathews

Yes, the current one's CAN, and they actually can do an extremely good
job at IR.

Find an explanation here:
http://www.cocam.co.uk/CoCamWS/Infrared/INFRARED.HTM#eIR

And find an excellent example here:
http://www.animalu.com/pics/photos.htm

Thanks,
Ed


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 9:19 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Interesting question about digital: Infrared
 
 
 Someone on the rec.photo.digital newsgroup just posted asking 
 if a digital camera can do infrared photography. I'm pretty 
 sure current ones can't and wonder if it would ever be 
 possible (even if it's possible technically, it probably 
 would require a special CCD, for which there wouldn't be 
 enough demand to justify producing).
 
 So perhaps I should start shooting infrared to show those 
 smartass digicam owners what old fashioned film can do?
 
 -- 
 Mark Roberts
 www.robertstech.com
 
 
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RE: ZX-5 vs MZ-S use this past weekend.

2001-08-21 Thread Ed Mathews

Yes, a major complaint of mine.  Dim LEDs, bad placement, and glare on
the eyepiece.

Thanks,
Ed


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of 
 Matamoros, Cesar A.

Snip.
  At first when I 
 switched to it (ZX5) I was complaining about not being able to read 
 the viewfinder information.  
Snip.

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RE: ZX-5 vs MZ-S use this past weekend.

2001-08-21 Thread Ed Mathews

I've tried that, and it helps, but still it's a problem.  In bright sun,
I actually end up shielding my right eye and glasses with most of my
hand, leaving just my pinky to press the shutter release.  Sometimes I
feel like the only good solution for me would be a black cloth, like a
view camera.  A bit inconvenient for 35mm.

Thanks,
Ed


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of dick graham
 Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 5:12 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: RE: ZX-5 vs MZ-S use this past weekend.
 
 
 I have found that moving my right thumb up on the right side 
 of the eye cup 
 of the viewfinder I have solved the problem of back lit glare in the 
 viewfinder.
 
 DG
 
 
 
 At 04:29 PM 8/21/01 -0400, you wrote:
 Yes, a major complaint of mine.  Dim LEDs, bad placement, 
 and glare on 
 the eyepiece.
 
 Thanks,
 Ed
 
 
   -Original Message-
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of 
 Matamoros, Cesar 
   A.
 
 Snip.
At first when I
   switched to it (ZX5) I was complaining about not being 
 able to read 
   the viewfinder information.
 Snip.
 
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RE: August PUG - Bill Casselberry

2001-08-14 Thread Ed Mathews

I don't think there's any IR sensor in the ZX5N.  I've used it
extensively for infrared and there has never been a problem, and I
recall Pentax saying at some point that there was no IR sensor in that
camera.

Thanks,
Ed

Tom said:
Snip..
 However, other MZ bodies have a sensor as well, and don't. 
 I've tested this with the ZX-5n.
Snip..

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Re: More RE: Amateur Photographer MZ-S review

2001-07-25 Thread Ed Mathews

Jaroslaw wrote:

 EOS-3 and Nikon F100 are labelled as high-end cameras - whatever it 
 means. Quite distinct from their pro: models you say? Not very much 
 so: EOS-3 build quality is similar to the old EOS-1N (shutter 
 durability, sealing and gasketing against the elements, the chassis 
 etc.) and definitely above EOS amateur models.

Just to set the record straight, the F100 brochure clearly says
Professional in big letter on the cover, and references it many times
inside.

As far as ISO settings with it, if you manually change the ISO, and then
insert the same type of file again and again, it remembers the manually
set ISO rating and continues with that rating.  If you change to a
different type of film, it goes back to setting it via the DX coding.

Thanks,
Ed

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E-film details

2001-07-22 Thread Ed Mathews

Maybe this has been posted, but I just found it, so I'll share.  It
explains the e-film principals pretty well.  I still don't know if it's
really actually available.
http://www.e-insite.net/ednmag/index.asp?layout=articlearticleId=CA9076
1

Thanks,
Ed

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RE: ZX-5N?

2001-07-09 Thread Ed Mathews



And the Nikon F3, and the Nikon F100, and the Pentax Super 
Program, and even the K-1000.

  From: petit miam 
  Subject: RE: ZX-5N? 
  Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2001 02:30:32 -0700 

And the Spotmatic :)

 On Mon, 9 Jul 2001 11:03:10 +1000, John Coyle wrote:
 
 I have the ZX5, which I'm reasonably certain is not
 much different to the 5n in 
 viewfinder construction.  I find it easy enough to
 shade the eyepiece with one 
 hand to check the exposure information in bright
 sunlight.  Are you aware of 
 _any_ SLR camera that will not have this problem in
 the same conditions 
 (particularly if you wear glasses)?
 
 Sure, the Pentax LX :-)
 
 Regards, JvW

Thanks,Ed


Re: OT (sort of) Ilfospeed Deluxe paper

2001-06-04 Thread Ed Mathews

Thanks to those who replied to this.  I'm not going into all the details
about why I think I would prefer a graded paper, but suffice to say I've
been printing for a while.  I've arrived at and have been using graded Fiber
with cold light for some time now, and I want to extend that preference to
my quicker RC prints.  The response about Ilfospeed was all positive, so I
ordered a pack of grade 2 and a pack of grade 3.  Thanks for the input,
gang.  Most the time, I do better when I have less choices.  Less choices
leads to less confusion and better familiarity for my simple mind.

Thanks,
Ed
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OT (sort of) Ilfospeed Deluxe paper

2001-06-03 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi,
 I'm in search of a graded RC paper to use with my cold light head.
About the only I see out there in stock is Ilfospeed Deluxe.  Has anybody on
the list used this stuff?  I've use Ilford Multicontrast RC quite a lot.  Is
it similar?

Thanks,
Ed

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June Pop Photo: 24-90 overpriced?

2001-05-19 Thread Ed Mathews

Peter wrote:
Keppler's SLR column...snip..but the Pentax at $600 stands out like
a sore thumb.  It is the most expensive of the bunch, with the shortest zoom
range. ..snip

Yeah, when I tried out the MZ-S with that lens, the local rep told me that
he thought the lens cost way too much for what it was, and he was afraid
they had priced it too high.

Thanks,
Ed
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Pentax stuff for sale

2001-05-06 Thread Ed Mathews

Hello,
 In an effort to clean out some of my never or seldom used camera items,
I have the following things to offer the list before I head elsewhere with
them:

*  Super Program
*  Pentax 135 F3.5 M
* Tamron FA 28-105 F4-5.6 AF
*  Pentax FA 28-70 F4 AF
*  Pentax F 80-200 F4.7-5.6 AF

 Condition of all is excellent and prices are very attractive.  See more
details at:
http://www.komkon.org/~itsed/Temp/lens.htm
 E-mail me privately if interested in anything.

Thanks,
Ed

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Re: Pentax stuff for sale

2001-05-06 Thread Ed Mathews

I didn't check new prices, only used prices at KEH.  If it's too high then
someone can either make me an offer or I'll take it to E-Bay.  I would take
less if necessary.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: Gary L. Murphy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ed Mathews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Pentax stuff for sale


 On Sun, 6 May 2001 08:32:03 -0400, Ed Mathews wrote:

 *  Pentax FA 28-70 F4 AF

 Ed,

 Isn't $120 a bit steep? BH sells them for $149. :-)




 Later,
 Gary




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New Kodak/Nikon 6MP camera

2001-03-22 Thread Ed Mathews

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0103/01032206kodakdcs760.asp

Thanks,
Ed

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Re: ZX-5N AF again (was Re: ZX-5n - Good price at BH photo: A Question to All....)

2001-03-17 Thread Ed Mathews

Skip said:

I don't understand what you're saying here Ed, about the ZX-5n. Isn't
locking on a subject and staying focused with it exactly what is supposed to
happen in the Spot Focus mode?

My comments:

What I meant was that the camera has no continuous focus mode, so it tends
to lock on to subjects and remain focused at that point, rather than follow
them.  It's supposed to follow moving subjects, using "predictive AF", but
you can't depend on that happening all the time.  It depends on the subject,
and how fast it's moving.  You have no control over "predictive AF", it's up
to the camera to decide whether to kick it in or not.

Skip said:

And what happens then when you switch over to the Six Segment AF mode?
And what do you mean by "no continuous focus mode"? Doesn't this camera have
something called Predictive AF, which is supposed to be one step ahead of a
moving object[s] in order to keep in focus??

My comments:

I explained precdictive AF above.  You have no control over it, and it works
sometimes and sometimes not.  I find it works less often than not.  And
there is no such thing as "six-segment AF mode".  I don't know where you
ever head of that, but I can assure you - the ZX5N has nothing like it.

Skip said:

Can you please explain more? Are you using all of the AF modes, or maybe
just sticking with one?
Or does this camera simply not really do what's claimed for it?

My comments:

The ZX5N has no user controlable AF modes.  It simply tries to achieve focus
and lock at that point, or it makes up it's own mind that a subject is
moving and tries to follow it by itself.  The only aspect controlable by the
user is whether you choose to use just the center AF bracket, or all three
at once in the viewfinder, in which case the camera again makes up it's own
mind about which one to use to achieve focus

Skip said:

Plus, if you look at the Pentax AF codes, the PZ1[p] uses something called
Safox 1, while the ZX-5n uses Safox IV. Are you saying Pentax's AF systems
have gotten worse as they've updated them???

My comments:

Over the years, of the many people that have owned both cameras, many people
have said the the PZ1P AF seems better to them.  Others say the ZX5N AF is
better.  I don't know which is better.  But, what you can be assured of is
this:
1.  The difference is probably not that great, or there would be no arguing
about which is better.
2.  The PZ1P has a "stronger" AF motor.
3.  The PZ1P has a continuous AF mode that the ZX5N does not have, allowing
it to keep changing it's focus with a moving subject.
So that's why I said what I did.  Ultimately, for moving subjects, the best
Pentax camera is the MS-S in continuous focus mode.  But if you can't afford
that, then the PZ1P might be a better choice than the ZX5N because although
it's AF system is outdated, at least it has a continuous AF mode that no
other current Pentax has.

Thanks,
Ed

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Re: MZ-S Test Drive results (long)h

2001-03-05 Thread Ed Mathews

I did not check the eyepiece to see if it was glass or plastic, but it's
dished like the ZX5N, and so similar, that I would bet it's the same.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Alan Chan" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: MZ-S Test Drive results (long)h


 Hi Ed,  I think this is the least interested question, but I have decided
to
 ask anyway. Was the eyepiece made of glass, or still plastic (if it was
 uncoated, it's usually plastic)? It's the most hatred part on my Z-1p, and
I
 hope the one on MZ-S is not plastic anymore. 8-(

 regards,
 Alan Chan

 _
 Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.

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Re: Pentax FA 35 mm f2.0 AL vs Stylus Epic

2001-03-02 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi Peter,
 I really enjoyed your page on AF testing.  Confirms the same thing I've
found with the ZX5N, although I've also found a decent amount of error at
infinity with some lenses too.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Peter Spiro" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: Pentax FA 35 mm f2.0 AL vs Stylus Epic


 The Stylus Epic has a great lens for the price, and generally gives very
 nice results.  I have actually done comparison shots between it and my
 Pentax 40mm f/2.8, both at about f/5.6, and the Pentax was noticeably
 sharper in the details (e.g., small letters on a sign).

 Probably the most significant problem with the Stylus is the perverse
 program that's built into it, which is very much biased toward fast action
 (or photographers with really shaky hands).  Until the light is enough to
 give you a shutter speed over 1/200th, it shoots with the lens wide open
at
 f/2.8.  This gives you very limited depth of field, and no lens is at its
 best wide open.  So you need to use ASA 400 or 800 film with it unless you
 are always going to be in bright sunshine.

 I do like its tiny size, and I use it for travelling when an SLR is just
too
 bulky (or I'm using the SLR for slides and the Stylus for prints).  A few
 shots I've taken with it can be found at
 http://ca.geocities.com/spirope/photopage.htm

 _
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Grace

2001-03-02 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi Shel,
 I received your print of grace today.  It's beautiful and so is she.
It says so much.  I thank you, and I will proudly display it.  Let me know
if I can reciprocate sometime.

Thanks,
Ed
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Fw: Grace

2001-03-02 Thread Ed Mathews

Sorry Shel, and list folks.  This was obviously meant to be private.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Ed Mathews" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 2:54 PM
Subject: Grace


 Hi Shel,
  I received your print of grace today.  It's beautiful and so is she.
 It says so much.  I thank you, and I will proudly display it.  Let me know
 if I can reciprocate sometime.

 Thanks,
 Ed

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Re: Another question about ...(was Re: FA 24-90)

2001-02-28 Thread Ed Mathews

No, the front element does not rotate on the 24-90. :)

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 1:44 AM
Subject: Another question about ...(was Re: FA 24-90)


 I Can't remember if this has been mentioned before,
 but does the front element rotate when focussing? i.e.
 for polarizer use

 This is the one nasty thing that I can't stand about
 the 28-70 F4... other than that I love the lens...

 Cheers,
 Brian



 On 27 Feb 2001, at 18:32, Ed Mathews wrote:

  I cannot be certain, but I believe it does.  It looks and feels a lot
like
  the 28-70 F4.  It's not very heavy, and it's very compact but well
built.
  The hood is very nice with a built-in removable door for being able to
  use/rotate polorizers.  The hood also reverses for storage (as you would
  expect).  The rep said he shot a roll of film with it and was amazed by
the
  sharpness and lack of distortionat both ends, but of course, you would
  expect him to say that.  He also said he and the other U.S. reps think
it's
  overpriced against the competition, but there's nothing they can do
about
  that.

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Re: The Tri-X Chronicles: Heifitz, Highlights, French Tea

2001-02-28 Thread Ed Mathews

Shel,
 I've found the same thing.  IDII is a little higher energy than D76.
But if you compensate for the higher energy and reduce the development time,
the results are similar.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Shel Belinkoff" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Pentax List" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 2:15 AM
Subject: The Tri-X Chronicles: Heifitz, Highlights,  French Tea


 This evening I ran a roll of TX through Ilford's ID-11, and
 another roll through Kodak's venerable D-76, gently rolling the
 tanks while enjoying Heifitz playing the music of Saint-Sans
 and sipping a warming cup of Casablanca blend tea from Mariage
 Frres.

 Tonight's exploration into the qualities of Tri-X and ID-11
 centered around Anchell's comments that, since ID-11 and D-76
 are, for all intents and purposes, identical formulations,
 development times for each developer should be the same. Of
 course, the formulation and packaging of the two developers are
 not precisely identical, and, therefore, using the time-temp
 chart from one or the other developer may not give identical
 results.  This is what I wanted to determine.

 The last couple of rolls of TX that I souped in ID-11 seemed to
 indicate that Anchell was wrong in his assertion.  The contrast
 range of the negatives seemed a little greater than what I'd
 been getting when using D-76. Today I shot a few frames of the
 same subject on two rolls of film, using the same camera and
 lens to minimize any exposure differences caused by equipment,
 in order to more directly compare the results of TX in each
 developer.

 Each roll was processed separately in 600cc of developer mixed
 1:1, using, of course, the same time, temperature, and agitation
 routine for each roll.  As suspected, the results showed that
 ID-11 produced a negative with somewhat greater highlight
 density than the negs produced using D-76.  The difference was
 observed by viewing the negatives side-by-side through a 5.5X
 Pentax loupe on a light box with a 5000-degree K light.  The
 subjects were a BW teddy bear, the exposure of which was
 determined by measuring a Kodak grey card, and the grey card,
 which was also included in the scene.

 So, for accurate and precise results, run your own tests and
 don't consider ID-11 and D-76 to be interchangeable.

 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 There are no rules for good photographs,
 there are only good photographs.
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Re: MZ-S focus point selection

2001-02-28 Thread Ed Mathews

Comments interspersed:

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Erwin Vereecken" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 5:04 AM
Subject: MZ-S focus point selection


 Hi,

 Reading the reports saying you have to use your left hand for the switch
to
 enable focus point selection, I thought the following:

 Can't you operate this switch with the tip of the middle finger of the
right
 hand? That is, WITHOUTH removing your right hand from the grip.

You would have to have a really, really long, and dexterous middle finger.
:)


 I thought that was the most logical way of doing it, and is how I usually
do
 it with my MZ5n. You don't even have to take your finger from the shutter
 button, which was probably the idea to start with, and the reason why it
is
 so hard to reach with the index finger.

The MZ5N has the wide or spot position switch there, and I don't find that
at all easy to move repeatedly with my middle finger.  Since it's against
the lens mount and not the camera body, are you using the back of your
finger where your fingernail is for it?  If not, are you somehow able to
twist your middle finger into position while not affecting your shutter
finger?


 And for the focus point selection you only have to hold it up against a
 spring load, instead of clicking it into a position, so that should be
even
 easier.

Well, so far, nobody who has handled the camera has found it easy to do with
the right hand, while keeping a finger on the shutter, and simultaneously
using the thumb or another finger to turn the right side command dial to
select the focus point.


 Erwin.



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Re: MZ-S focus point selection

2001-02-28 Thread Ed Mathews

Hi Erwin,
 I see how it works for you.  Unfortunately for me, I almost exclusively
use aperture priority mode, so I am always forced to support a good chunk of
the camera's weight with my right hand.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Erwin Vereecken" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: MZ-S focus point selection


 Hi Ed,

 It was just an idea from my side based on my experience with the MZ5n. So
 the following story is most based on that ofcourse, and explains why I
 'think' it would work for me.

 First I would like to say it took me a long time (a year) before I knew
how
 to use my MZ5n properly, ergonomically speaking.

 I was very unhappy with it's ergonomics, I have big hands, found no room
to
 place my fingers, my index finger was halfway over the shutter button, the
 neck strap was always in the way, and I got cramps if I held it for a long
 time.
 And also relating to the MZ-S subject, the AF selector switch was a
 nightmare to use.

 I didn't like the idea of adding a battery grip either, the MZ5n is
already
 roughly the size of a K1000, I don't need AA because I don't shoot that
many
 rolls as an amateur, and I often use a tripod, so I don't like the idea of
 putting a battery pack inbetween.

 So I much preferred to use my SFX, with it's big and comfortable grip.

 However, not to long ago I noticed that when I was handholding the MZ5n
with
 my F*300 f4.5, the ergonomics all of a sudden started to fit.

 So I studied why, and to put it in short, the MZ5n is a left hand camera,
 not a right hand camera like the SFX.

 With this I mean you have to take it to your eye with your left hand, and
 add your right hand when the camera is between chest and eye height. When
 the F*300 was on it, I did this naturally, because of the size and weight
of
 the lens. But with smaller lenses, I tried to hold and handle it as my
SFX,
 and that caused all the problems.

 Just try this:
 Bring the camera to upper chest height, quite close to the chest, with the
 left hand only (holding it more or less like you were adjusting the
aperture
 ring)
 Now add the right hand. Because the position the camera is in, your right
 hand should now come from a  front/ below direction, with the palm of the
 hand turned in a 90 corner with your chest.
 Now take the camera to your eye, but keep roughly 90% of the weight
 supported by the left hand, and keep a relatively loose grip with the
right
 hand.

 Now I don't know what this will do for you, but for me it's just perfect.
 The index finger drops right over the shutter, the thumb fits nicely, and
to
 come back to the subject, the back of the fingernail of my middle finger
 rests against the AF switch.

 Now in this position you can't really hold the full weight of camera and
 lens properly with the right hand, but it makes more sense anyway to do
this
 with the left arm, which, cradled to the chest, gives more stability. And
 that's why I say the MZ5n is a left hand camera.

 Asfar as reach is concerned to operate the AF switch, my middle finger is
 almost complety turned inwards when the nail rests again the switch, when
I
 stretch it out, withouth changing the position of my hand, it reaches the
 middle of the lens, just in front of the top of the aperure ring.
 So this should work also for smaller hands. And the MZ-S grip is only
 deeper, and does not make the camera wider, so this reach should be the
 same.

 Asfar a dexterity is concerned, flipping the switch up and down with the
 fingernail is quite easy for me, and especially flipping it up with the
back
 of the nail is really easy. And in case of selecting focussing points with
 the MZ-S, all that's needed could be a slight pressure with the back of
the
 fingernail.


 And you said:
 "Well, so far, nobody who has handled the camera has found it easy to do
 with
 the right hand, while keeping a finger on the shutter, and simultaneously
 using the thumb or another finger to turn the right side command dial to
 select the focus point"

 Because I use the right hand only "loosely" with my present MZ5n
technique,
 I don't see much problems in using thumb and middle finger at the same
time.
 I do tighten the right hand grip slightly when
 focussing manually (but we are talking about AF), and adjusting the
aperture
 ring (but my brain couldn't handle that much actions simultaniously), but
 only then.

 So based on this experience, I suspect it could work for me, but that
 doesn't mean it would work for everybody, and I would have to try it first
 ofcourse.

 So sofar it's just an idea, but I thought it was worth mentioning, because
 it would make the AF system more suitable for fast action, espescially
with
 big lens/monopod/tripod combo's, where you don't want your left hand
 reaching underneath the camera.

 Erwin


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Re: Test-Driving the MZ-S

2001-02-27 Thread Ed Mathews

Smartass.  You're gonna get me in trouble. :)

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message - 
From: "tom" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Test-Driving the MZ-S


 Ed, could you unscrew the bottom plate, and tell us what color the
 wiring is?
 
 Also, pop the RTF 3 or 4 hundred times. I'm curious to see how well it
 holds up.
 
 Thanks.
 
 tv
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MZ-S Test Drive results (long)h

2001-02-27 Thread Ed Mathews

 First, thanks to the Pentax rep who let me handle the camera.  I spent
about 45 minutes with it and the new 24-90 lens.  I'm going to ramble here,
and I know I did not get to everything everyone wants to know, but I found
out about what was important to me, and tried to find out other things for
some people.  Bear in mind that the rep has not had the camera very long,
has only run 1 roll of film through it, and received no instruction manual
with it.  U.S. arrival is expected in May, and the MAP will be about
$999.00.  You might want to open 4 browsers to all these images as you read
this:

http://digilander.iol.it/aohc/pma2001/mzs01.jpg
http://digilander.iol.it/aohc/pma2001/mzs02.jpg
http://digilander.iol.it/aohc/pma2001/mzs03.jpg
http://digilander.iol.it/aohc/pma2001/mzs04.jpg

 Ergonomically, the camera handles much like a ZX/MZ anything, and it
weighs not much more.  The grip is more substantial and it feels more solid.
And the sound of the shutter is much more metallic.  The command dial on the
right side woks well and is equally and easily accessible to either the
right index finger from the front, or the right thumb from behind.  The DOF
preview is a spring activated additional notch beyond the on switch, and is
very easy use and to get used to.  The focus bracket selection switch is
located on the right side near the lens release mounting tab where you would
normally find the DOF preview.  You need to push it while turning the right
control dial to select focus points.  I found it very awkward or near
impossible to get to with the right hand, and the rep told me it's better to
get with the left hand by reaching around under the lens barrel as you
cradle the lens.  That way indeed works well, but I wonder how comfortable
that would be with a heavy lens because it requires you cradle the lens near
the camera body.  The AF lock button on the back can be programmed to either
just lock AF or lock AF and AE.  I found this to be placed a little too
close to the center of the camera, causing my thumb to almost push my eye
away from the viewfinder, but not quite.  I also found that you needed to
push that button in pretty far before it activates, which might be a problem
for people with larger, less "pointy" thumbs.  The button with the green dot
on the right front of the camera is like an "idiot button".  It returns all
the custom functions to factory presets, and puts you back in auto modes
automatically, in case you get lost.  The command dial on the left side has
an inner and outer dial which both rotate.  The outer dial rotates easily,
but the inner one is not easy to grasp with just three little ridges for
grip.  It would be impossible to turn with gloves on or if your fingers were
real cold.  The hold button on the back right side is used for holding the
camera in a program mode, or whatever mode you have it in, and keeps you
from changing modes electronically.  I'm sure there must be more to this, as
this does not make much sense to me, but again, the rep had no manual.  The
24-90 lens is very sweet, but the aperture ring is a little hard to grasp
because of the thickness of the lens barrel close to the camera body.  I'm
told this lens will sell for about $500.00 U.S.  Aesthetically, the camera
looks great, but my chrome limited lenses didn't look so good on it.  The
rep shared that Pentax brought out the chrome lenses for an upcoming
range-finder camera that ended up getting shelved.  As far as future chrome
lenses - nobody knows right now.
 Functions:  The fast shutter sync is 1/180 except for the new flash
unit, which can sync at all speeds.  The rep did not know if the data
imprinting slows winding.  There is no flash compensation on the body for an
external flash, but the rep said it was there for the built-in flash by
using the exposure compensation dials.  Personally, I doubt this can be used
just for flash, but suspect it's for the entire exposure.  Exposure comp is
set in either full or  stops, and as expected, you can combine that with
auto bracketing.  AV mode involves turning the aperture ring - unlike the
PZ1P, there is no way to control it otherwise in that mode.
 Viewfinder:  The eyepoint is about the same as my ZX5N, which I took
with me, but not having to move the eye all the way to the side to see the
information really helps.  The information along the bottom is sharp and
unobtrusive, yet easy to see.  It did not look real bright, but I was only
able to try the camera in the store and out the front door.  I had no
problems seeing it, but it might be a little difficult in very bright
light - I would wonder.  The scale on the right is not activated unless
needed for exposure comp, or manual mode, so that's nice.  The AF brackets
indicator is to the left of the shutter speed and aperture readouts, and a
mini view of the viewfinder and works well enough.  The viewfinder eyepiece
external glass has the same dished curve to it that my ZX5N has, which is a
pool for 

Re: MZ-S worth

2001-02-26 Thread Ed Mathews

The MZ-S will have a minimum advertised price (MAP) in the U.S.  I don't
feel I'm at liberty (as of yet) to announce what that is, because I have not
asked permission, but tomorrow I will and I don't anticipate it being a
problem.  But I post this now in response to the wild speculation we've seen
so far about pricing in the U.S.  I can tell you it competes squarely with
the F100.  So relax, no big surprises.

Thanks,
Ed
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Re: Updated web site

2001-02-25 Thread Ed Mathews

Nice work, Juan.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message - 
From: "Juan J. Buhler" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 6:44 PM
Subject: Updated web site


 
 Hi List,
 
 I have just finished updating my web pages. I added a few galleries
 with new pictures, reorganized the thing a little bit, etc.
 
 Check it out, link is in my .sig.
 
 Comments, especially negative ones, are welcome.
 
 j
 
 --
 -
  Juan J. Buhler | FX Animator @ PDI | http://www.crosswinds.net/~jbuhler
 -
 
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Re: Rinsing BW

2001-02-25 Thread Ed Mathews

Shel,
 Permawash is cheap, relatively speaking, and it saves even more water
and time.  I use a variation on Ilford's method, where I fill and invert 5
times, then use a 2 minute soak in Permawash, and then fill and invert
another 5 times.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Shel Belinkoff" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Pentax List" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 3:42 AM
Subject: Rinsing BW


 Recently I began using Ilford's method of rinsing BW film.
 That's where you fill the tank, make five inversions, empty the
 tank, refill it, make ten inversions, and then repeat for twenty
 inversions.  I then give the film another rinse just for good
 measure.   Does anyone else use the Ilford method?  I like it
 because it saves water and time.  Any comments on its efficiency
 compared to a running water rinse for ten or twenty minutes?
 --
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 There are no rules for good photographs,
 there are only good photographs.
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Re: Hey, darkroom junkies

2001-02-24 Thread Ed Mathews

Cold light is diffused and from a tube that does not generate heat, like a
standard condenser enlarger head does.  The advantage is very even
illumination (unlike condensers, which yield a hot spot in the center) and
no heat means no negative warping and popping during exposures.  Diffused
light of any nature will render many dust particles and small scratches on
negatives invisible on prints, unlike condenser light, which tends to really
exaggerate dust problems and minor scratches.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Collin Brendemuehl" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: Hey, darkroom junkies


 So tell me about "cold light".

 At 08:34 PM 2/23/01 -0500, you wrote:
 Print with cold light or diffusion.  It makes a world of difference.  If
you
 still have problems and you're using diffusion, then you, sir, are simply
a
 dirty person.
 
 Thanks,
 Ed


 ***

 "The accumulation of all powers legislative,
 executive and judiciary in the same hands . . .
 may justly be pronounced the very definition of tyranny."

 --James Madison, Federalist 47

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Re: Cutting Foam

2001-02-24 Thread Ed Mathews

Use an electric knife, like the kind used to filet fish or cut meat.  It
works great.

Thanks,
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "Bill Kane" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 10:32 AM
Subject: Cutting Foam


 Hey guys,

 Well, this is somewhat on topic . . .

 I recently bought myself a nice new 4 inch telescope by Celstrong
(NexStar
 4) . . . I also bought a padded case with closed cell foam.  I know this
was
 discussed before on the OLD list, but What is the best method of cutting
 closed cell foam?

To keep this on topic, the case is rather nice and big.  I should have
 enough room to cut in a space for my MX and it's T-adapter to hook it up
to
 the scope.  I'll have pics soon, I hope.

 THANKS!!
 Illinois Bill

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