[RBW] A small step forward?

2011-05-07 Thread Big Paulie
http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/05/bikes-and-tech/ask-nick-fat-tire-fun-and-mavic-race-support_171343

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[RBW] Re: Lawyer Lips?

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
I have them on my Quickbeam, but not Bombadil. While I agree with
the gist of the article in the RR, about the tragedy of fool-proofing
everything in sight, the LLs on the QB do not really bother me.I
rarely remove the front wheel to fix a flat (schwalbe!) and when I do,
I'm not usually in a hurry. And even if I were, I can dial out the
QR to clear the lips and then dial it back in pretty fast.Now, the
articles on the Idaho Stop and helmet laws...  with thoose I agree
down to the marrow.   :D

-Matt



On May 6, 8:43 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
 :(

 Darn, I loved the convenience of a quick flip, and even more the ease of
 reinstallation... Oh well, can't blame them.
 On May 6, 2011 5:42 PM, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:

  My new Waterford-built Bombadil has'm. I plan to use Pitlocks, so no
  big deal.

  On May 6, 4:49 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
  I just read the RR article about proper quick release usage.  It's
  unfortunate to see that Grant was dragged into a lawsuit over an
 improperly
  installed wheel -- I really hope that he prevails!  While I understand
 the
  need for some sort of retention device on low end bikes (**), it seems
 silly
  to put them on high end bikes.

  This got me to thinking... I didn't look closely at the fork dropouts on
 the
  bikes when I was test riding:  Will I find lawyer lips on my Waterford
 built
  AHH that's due to arrive in the new few weeks?

  Looking on Flickr I found some pictures that seem to indicate that I
  won't...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/boxdogbikes/5061605656/

  I surely hope not, though I'd understand if it were to happen.

  (**) A few months ago, while driving, I saw a teenage boy riding a
  department store bike with a floppy QR skewer on the sidewalk.  I pulled
 off
  into a parking lot and intercepted the rider to fix it for him, worried
 that
  he'd go off a curb and lose the front wheel.  I asked him if he knew how
 it
  worked, and he had no clue.

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[RBW] Re: bars for a simpleone?

2011-05-07 Thread Michael Rivers
I went with drops, and as this was my first Riv (QB Silver 60 cm) I asked 
the folks at Walnut creek what size bars I should get.  I was drinking the 
kool aid about a larger frame than I had ever ridden, and I went with the 48 
cm Noodles they recommended.  I am 6'1 with a PBH of 86.5, and have a long 
torso and arms.  The 10cm stem doesn't push the bars out too far, and it was 
the most comfortable bike I had ridden to date.  I now have a RAM (60 cm) 
and an 80's Bianchi Vittoria (61 cm) with 48 cm Noodles also.  There is 
something about my hands being that far apart that is relaxing!  I have 
changed a lot of things on my Quickbeam, but love the bars.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrivers/sets/72157618452191962/with/5154208506/

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[RBW] Re: NYC Bike Shops

2011-05-07 Thread Will M
Howdy -- a NYC shop I've been wanting to visit is Brooklyn's new
www.bespoke-bicycles.com.  Learned about them when the founder posted
this on EcoVelo: http://bit.ly/hkvbwf ... Rivish?

In Manhattan, has anyone found anything more Rivish than Bicycle
Habitat (244  250 Lafayette Street)?

I've been having fun taking my Ram to my LBS (Sids on W 19th St) which
caters to racers and urban hipsters and is decidedly non-Rivish.  I
say fun because every time I swing by with the bike, I educate the
employees a little about how bikes should be designed.  (The bike gets
a lot of attention from customers and employees alike when in their
shop.  What is that?  Cool bike, man.  How old is that bike,
dude? Why do you have such a huge frame?)  For a while they had a
mechanic from SF who knew all about Bridgestone and Riv, but he went
back home.

I second the vote for rivbike.com and roadtrips to Harris in W.
Newton, MA.

Will



On May 5, 2:56 pm, Cycletex clifwrightpho...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Anyone have NYC bike shop suggestions that a Riv lover shouldn't miss
 out on?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stem Strength

2011-05-07 Thread Ken Freeman
Ok, so the steel stem has a larger OD AND a stiffer modulus.  Staying on the
back of an envelope, the ratio of 31.6^2 to 22.2^2 is about 2.  In which
case your calc requires the ratio of moduli to be about 5.  For steel it's
about 30,000 ksi and for aluminum it's about 10,000 ksi.

Not bad, for the back of an envelope, and no finite element work!!

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 1:15 AM, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:

 Hey,
 My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will
 deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal
 extensions lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm
 diameter extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension.
 The extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not
 significant here.
 By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
 If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter.
 And steel too.
 And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the
 stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the
 bigger diameter overcame this.
 Cheers!
 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



 On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:

  When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
  stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
  more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
  much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
  steerer.
 
  Philip
 
 
  On May 6, 9:24 am, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
  Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
  standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
  had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
  cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
  stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
  the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.
 
  That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
  typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
  stems.
 
  Bill
 
  On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
  various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
  There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
  years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
  did trigger this question from me.
 
  My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
  he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
  stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
  experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
  imagination.
 
  Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
  stem?
 
  michael
 
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-- 
Ken Freeman
Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Low q factor, IT bands, and pedals

2011-05-07 Thread Justin August
I know this has been gone over and over but I'm looking for some first
hand experiences. I've noticed in the past few weeks that my leg hurts
substantially more after riding my Bleriot with Ritchey/Sugino triple
and RMX sneaker pedals than on my fixed Motobecane with a Sugino RD
crank and MKS sylvans. Given that folks seem to correlate higher q
factor (to a point) with lowered IT band pain I'm looking for
solutions.

Can I overcome this replacement spindles for the MKS pedals or would I
be advised to get a crankset with a higher q factor for the Bleriot to
alleviate my pain?

-Justin

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stem Strength

2011-05-07 Thread James Valiensi
Actual, the polar moment of inertia is to the 4th power: PI()(D^4-d^4)/32.
Cheers!
James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On May 7, 2011, at 5:29 AM, Ken Freeman wrote:

 Ok, so the steel stem has a larger OD AND a stiffer modulus.  Staying on the 
 back of an envelope, the ratio of 31.6^2 to 22.2^2 is about 2.  In which case 
 your calc requires the ratio of moduli to be about 5.  For steel it's about 
 30,000 ksi and for aluminum it's about 10,000 ksi.
 
 Not bad, for the back of an envelope, and no finite element work!!
 
 On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 1:15 AM, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hey,
 My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will 
 deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal extensions 
 lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm diameter 
 extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension. The 
 extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not 
 significant here.
 By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
 If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter. And 
 steel too.
 And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the 
 stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the 
 bigger diameter overcame this.
 Cheers!
 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
 
 
 
 On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:
 
  When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
  stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
  more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
  much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
  steerer.
 
  Philip
 
 
  On May 6, 9:24 am, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
  Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
  standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
  had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
  cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
  stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
  the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.
 
  That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
  typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
  stems.
 
  Bill
 
  On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
  various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
  There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
  years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
  did trigger this question from me.
 
  My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
  he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
  stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
  experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
  imagination.
 
  Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
  stem?
 
  michael
 
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 -- 
 Ken Freeman
 Ann Arbor, MI USA
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: bars for a simpleone?

2011-05-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I generally dislike wide bars -- I use 42s on my road bikes and the
new Herse came with Belleri drop bars 38 or 39 cm at the hoods -- but
I do like the 46 cm Noodles on the Fargo, where I have them
considerably higher than on the road bikes. Part of this is because
they give me a much wider flat, useful for unweighting the front wheel
in sand while still maintaining control, but I also find them
comfortable in the hooks (with the very high bars -- 8 cm or so above
saddle -- the hooks are my standard pavement and firm dirt riding
position). But I didn't like the same bars when they were positioned
lower. 5'10 with Asian build.

FWIW, I've tried most of the short and wide dirt drop type bars out
there and find the Noodles better for off road.

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 5:40 AM, Michael Rivers mriver...@gmail.com wrote:
 I went with drops, and as this was my first Riv (QB Silver 60 cm) I asked
 the folks at Walnut creek what size bars I should get.  I was drinking the
 kool aid about a larger frame than I had ever ridden, and I went with the 48
 cm Noodles they recommended.  I am 6'1 with a PBH of 86.5, and have a long
 torso and arms.  The 10cm stem doesn't push the bars out too far, and it was
 the most comfortable bike I had ridden to date.  I now have a RAM (60 cm)
 and an 80's Bianchi Vittoria (61 cm) with 48 cm Noodles also.  There is
 something about my hands being that far apart that is relaxing!  I have
 changed a lot of things on my Quickbeam, but love the bars.
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrivers/sets/72157618452191962/with/5154208506/

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: Stem Strength

2011-05-07 Thread Bill M.
I suspect that the introduction of carbon fiber bars had something to
do with the introduction of 31.8 mm bars as well.

Bill


On May 6, 10:15 pm, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hey,
 My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will 
 deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal extensions 
 lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm diameter 
 extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension. The 
 extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not 
 significant here.
 By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
 If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter. And 
 steel too.
 And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the 
 stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the 
 bigger diameter overcame this.
 Cheers!
 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796

 On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:



  When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
  stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
  more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
  much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
  steerer.

  Philip

  On May 6, 9:24 am, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
  Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
  standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
  had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
  cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
  stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
  the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.

  That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
  typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
  stems.

  Bill

  On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

  The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
  various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
  There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
  years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
  did trigger this question from me.

  My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
  he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
  stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
  experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
  imagination.

  Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
  stem?

  michael

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Re: [RBW] Low q factor, IT bands, and pedals

2011-05-07 Thread cyclotourist
Justin, I had severe ITB pain that took me off the bike for several months.
When the inflammation finally receded, I was limited to 10 miles for a
while before it cropped back up.

I still have it, and probably will forever, but it's greatly reduced to the
point I can pretty much ride as long as I want.  There will be little
twinges here and there, but not the debilitating pain that it was.

So, that said, my fit solution consisted of lowering my saddle ~5mm and
going exclusively to SPD pedals.  I canted my heel INBOARD as far as I could
(angled toe out), and pushed the cleats OUTBOARD as far as possible to widen
the Q factor.  Now the cleats don't have a ton of adjustability, so that
widening wasn't huge, *maybe *5mm or so each side, for a total 1cm wider Q.


I can't isolate the one change that benefited me the most, but I would put
my money on keeping my heel in with the SPDs.

I also bought a foam roller and did some stretches, but haven't done those
in a while.  I'm slowly raising my saddles back up a bit.

From what I've researched and talked to people, there isn't a single fix.
It's a VERY individualized causation and therefore solution.  All my good
bookmarks have been deleted in the great crash of '11, but I'll try to dig
through some gmail and forward you what I can find.



On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 5:56 AM, Justin August justinaug...@gmail.comwrote:

 I know this has been gone over and over but I'm looking for some first
 hand experiences. I've noticed in the past few weeks that my leg hurts
 substantially more after riding my Bleriot with Ritchey/Sugino triple
 and RMX sneaker pedals than on my fixed Motobecane with a Sugino RD
 crank and MKS sylvans. Given that folks seem to correlate higher q
 factor (to a point) with lowered IT band pain I'm looking for
 solutions.

 Can I overcome this replacement spindles for the MKS pedals or would I
 be advised to get a crankset with a higher q factor for the Bleriot to
 alleviate my pain?

 -Justin

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-- 
Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lawyer Lips?

2011-05-07 Thread cyclotourist
I had them on my Qucikbeam, and hated them.  More in principle than in
practice as I didn't take the wheel off much.  I love them on my Karate
Monkey though.  The forces of the disc brake and all the hits that bike gets
makes me glad to have an extra retention system.  It's a pain when putting
it on the roof racks, but the extra 10 sec. doesn't bother me.

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 3:12 AM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have them on my Quickbeam, but not Bombadil. While I agree with
 the gist of the article in the RR, about the tragedy of fool-proofing
 everything in sight, the LLs on the QB do not really bother me.I
 rarely remove the front wheel to fix a flat (schwalbe!) and when I do,
 I'm not usually in a hurry. And even if I were, I can dial out the
 QR to clear the lips and then dial it back in pretty fast.Now, the
 articles on the Idaho Stop and helmet laws...  with thoose I agree
 down to the marrow.   :D

 -Matt



 On May 6, 8:43 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
  :(
 
  Darn, I loved the convenience of a quick flip, and even more the ease of
  reinstallation... Oh well, can't blame them.
  On May 6, 2011 5:42 PM, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:
 
   My new Waterford-built Bombadil has'm. I plan to use Pitlocks, so no
   big deal.
 
   On May 6, 4:49 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
   I just read the RR article about proper quick release usage.  It's
   unfortunate to see that Grant was dragged into a lawsuit over an
  improperly
   installed wheel -- I really hope that he prevails!  While I understand
  the
   need for some sort of retention device on low end bikes (**), it seems
  silly
   to put them on high end bikes.
 
   This got me to thinking... I didn't look closely at the fork dropouts
 on
  the
   bikes when I was test riding:  Will I find lawyer lips on my Waterford
  built
   AHH that's due to arrive in the new few weeks?
 
   Looking on Flickr I found some pictures that seem to indicate that I
   won't...
 
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/boxdogbikes/5061605656/
 
   I surely hope not, though I'd understand if it were to happen.
 
   (**) A few months ago, while driving, I saw a teenage boy riding a
   department store bike with a floppy QR skewer on the sidewalk.  I
 pulled
  off
   into a parking lot and intercepted the rider to fix it for him,
 worried
  that
   he'd go off a curb and lose the front wheel.  I asked him if he knew
 how
  it
   worked, and he had no clue.
 
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 Groups
 
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Redlands, CA

*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] A small step forward?

2011-05-07 Thread cyclotourist
Vindication!!!


On Fri, May 6, 2011 at 10:59 PM, Big Paulie pauldgr...@yahoo.com wrote:


 http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/05/bikes-and-tech/ask-nick-fat-tire-fun-and-mavic-race-support_171343

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*...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would
probably benefit more from
improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Re: Stem Strength

2011-05-07 Thread James Valiensi
With carbon fiber, all the old standards are thrown out!
James Valiensi, PE
Northridge, CA
H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



On May 7, 2011, at 7:01 AM, Bill M. wrote:

 I suspect that the introduction of carbon fiber bars had something to
 do with the introduction of 31.8 mm bars as well.
 
 Bill
 
 
 On May 6, 10:15 pm, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hey,
 My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will 
 deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal 
 extensions lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm 
 diameter extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension. 
 The extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not 
 significant here.
 By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
 If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter. 
 And steel too.
 And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the 
 stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the 
 bigger diameter overcame this.
 Cheers!
 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796
 
 On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:
 
 
 
 When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
 stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
 more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
 much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
 steerer.
 
 Philip
 
 On May 6, 9:24 am, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
 Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
 standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
 had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
 cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
 stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
 the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.
 
 That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
 typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
 stems.
 
 Bill
 
 On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
 various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
 There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
 years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
 did trigger this question from me.
 
 My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
 he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
 stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
 experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
 imagination.
 
 Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
 stem?
 
 michael
 
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[RBW] Re: NYC Bike Shops

2011-05-07 Thread Melanie
Do visit Bespoke!  They're great and definitely the most Rivish shop
in NYC. Quite small, though.

Melanie

On May 7, 8:10 am, Will M wpm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Howdy -- a NYC shop I've been wanting to visit is Brooklyn's 
 ne.bespoke-bicycles.com.  Learned about them when the founder posted
 this on EcoVelo:http://bit.ly/hkvbwf... Rivish?

 In Manhattan, has anyone found anything more Rivish than Bicycle
 Habitat (244  250 Lafayette Street)?

 I've been having fun taking my Ram to my LBS (Sids on W 19th St) which
 caters to racers and urban hipsters and is decidedly non-Rivish.  I
 say fun because every time I swing by with the bike, I educate the
 employees a little about how bikes should be designed.  (The bike gets
 a lot of attention from customers and employees alike when in their
 shop.  What is that?  Cool bike, man.  How old is that bike,
 dude? Why do you have such a huge frame?)  For a while they had a
 mechanic from SF who knew all about Bridgestone and Riv, but he went
 back home.

 I second the vote for rivbike.com and roadtrips to Harris in W.
 Newton, MA.

 Will

 On May 5, 2:56 pm, Cycletex clifwrightpho...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Anyone have NYC bike shop suggestions that a Riv lover shouldn't miss
  out on?

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[RBW] Re: Low q factor, IT bands, and pedals

2011-05-07 Thread Earl Grey
I had tight IT bands that made my patelas feel strange when pushing
bigger gears (because the kneecaps were being pulled off-center),
which made me worry about my knees. Not exactly your symptoms, but
probably the same underlying problem, and 3 or 4 trips to the sports
medicine clinic at Cornell to have my IT bands stretched solved this
problem completely with no recurrence in about 5 years. They also gave
me a roller to stretch on and some other exercises, but the exercises
were painful enough that I preferred to have someone else stretch my
IT bands for me, and it worked great. (Btw, I am a not averse to
stretching generally, being a yoga teacher, but those ITB stretches
were unpleasant.)

Hope this helps,

Gernot


On May 7, 9:29 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Justin, I had severe ITB pain that took me off the bike for several months.
 When the inflammation finally receded, I was limited to 10 miles for a
 while before it cropped back up.

 I still have it, and probably will forever, but it's greatly reduced to the
 point I can pretty much ride as long as I want.  There will be little
 twinges here and there, but not the debilitating pain that it was.

 So, that said, my fit solution consisted of lowering my saddle ~5mm and
 going exclusively to SPD pedals.  I canted my heel INBOARD as far as I could
 (angled toe out), and pushed the cleats OUTBOARD as far as possible to widen
 the Q factor.  Now the cleats don't have a ton of adjustability, so that
 widening wasn't huge, *maybe *5mm or so each side, for a total 1cm wider Q.

 I can't isolate the one change that benefited me the most, but I would put
 my money on keeping my heel in with the SPDs.

 I also bought a foam roller and did some stretches, but haven't done those
 in a while.  I'm slowly raising my saddles back up a bit.

 From what I've researched and talked to people, there isn't a single fix.
 It's a VERY individualized causation and therefore solution.  All my good
 bookmarks have been deleted in the great crash of '11, but I'll try to dig
 through some gmail and forward you what I can find.

 On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 5:56 AM, Justin August justinaug...@gmail.comwrote:





  I know this has been gone over and over but I'm looking for some first
  hand experiences. I've noticed in the past few weeks that my leg hurts
  substantially more after riding my Bleriot with Ritchey/Sugino triple
  and RMX sneaker pedals than on my fixed Motobecane with a Sugino RD
  crank and MKS sylvans. Given that folks seem to correlate higher q
  factor (to a point) with lowered IT band pain I'm looking for
  solutions.

  Can I overcome this replacement spindles for the MKS pedals or would I
  be advised to get a crankset with a higher q factor for the Bleriot to
  alleviate my pain?

  -Justin

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 Redlands, CA

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 probably benefit more from
 improving their taste than from improving their performance.* - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Lawyer Lips?

2011-05-07 Thread Earl Grey
I could be wrong, but I think this is a Waterford stipulation, not a
Riv one. My 2009 Taiwanese Sam does not have lawyers lips, nor any
other lawyer parts.

Gernot


On May 7, 7:43 am, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
 :(

 Darn, I loved the convenience of a quick flip, and even more the ease of
 reinstallation... Oh well, can't blame them.
 On May 6, 2011 5:42 PM, Marty mgie...@mac.com wrote:



  My new Waterford-built Bombadil has'm. I plan to use Pitlocks, so no
  big deal.

  On May 6, 4:49 pm, Rex Kerr rexk...@gmail.com wrote:
  I just read the RR article about proper quick release usage.  It's
  unfortunate to see that Grant was dragged into a lawsuit over an
 improperly
  installed wheel -- I really hope that he prevails!  While I understand
 the
  need for some sort of retention device on low end bikes (**), it seems
 silly
  to put them on high end bikes.

  This got me to thinking... I didn't look closely at the fork dropouts on
 the
  bikes when I was test riding:  Will I find lawyer lips on my Waterford
 built
  AHH that's due to arrive in the new few weeks?

  Looking on Flickr I found some pictures that seem to indicate that I
  won't...

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/boxdogbikes/5061605656/

  I surely hope not, though I'd understand if it were to happen.

  (**) A few months ago, while driving, I saw a teenage boy riding a
  department store bike with a floppy QR skewer on the sidewalk.  I pulled
 off
  into a parking lot and intercepted the rider to fix it for him, worried
 that
  he'd go off a curb and lose the front wheel.  I asked him if he knew how
 it
  worked, and he had no clue.

  --
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Re: [RBW] Low q factor, IT bands, and pedals

2011-05-07 Thread Tim McNamara

On May 7, 2011, at 7:56 AM, Justin August wrote:

 I know this has been gone over and over but I'm looking for some first
 hand experiences. I've noticed in the past few weeks that my leg hurts
 substantially more after riding my Bleriot with Ritchey/Sugino triple
 and RMX sneaker pedals than on my fixed Motobecane with a Sugino RD
 crank and MKS sylvans. Given that folks seem to correlate higher q
 factor (to a point) with lowered IT band pain I'm looking for
 solutions.
 
 Can I overcome this replacement spindles for the MKS pedals or would I
 be advised to get a crankset with a higher q factor for the Bleriot to
 alleviate my pain?

There are multiple possibilities.  

Generally (not not necessarily), if the pain is on the outside of your knee, 
the Q factor is too low.  If the pain is on the inside of your knee, the Q 
factor is too wide.  If the pain is on the front of your knee, the saddle is 
too low.  If the pain is behind your knee the saddle is too high.

You may be able to address the problem by adjusting your saddle height or 
fore-aft placement.  If the pain is on the outside of your knee below the joint 
line, as happened to me on PBP in 2003, you may be able to obtain relief by 
lowering your saddle just a few mm (about 3 mm, it's a tiny adjustment).  
That's counterintuitive but is what is recommended by Andy Pruitt.  Basically 
this just changes the range of motion slightly and avoids the irritated area.

Back in 2003-2005 I had recurrent problems with left knee pain, which turned 
out to be a torn medial meniscus (old martial arts injury, I think) which ended 
up needing arthroscopic surgery.  So there is some possibility it's not the 
bike.

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[RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread grant
It could have been worse: Toys. To my way of thinking, toys is
actualy better---but it's kind of the same. Toys are playthings and
both are for fun. Tools are for work, which can be satisfying, but
often isn't fun. I think, at some level we find it easier to justify
spending more on tools for serious work than on toys for playful
fun...but there's too much serious work going on in many of our lives,
and not enough playful fun, so...shift more toward the fun stuff...and
to me (and I woulds guess most of you, and certainly for my comrade in
fun Patrick Moore), bikes are fun toys! But it's all just labels, I
guess, and as long as the playful element is there, I guess it doesn't
matter how you describe them.

B,

Grant I sell expensive toys Petersen

On May 6, 7:36 am, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com wrote:
 u...did Grant really call bikes playthings in the new reader?

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[RBW] sickdogeye

2011-05-07 Thread Paul Scherlie
http://mini-app.ismywi.com/redir.html

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[RBW] FS: Bike Parts

2011-05-07 Thread Joe Bartoe

Hi everyone,

I have a few things for sale:

(i) mini Campy 10 gruppo, which includes: Chorus 10s Ergo Shifter (Aluminum 
Blades), Silver Chorus brakes (dual pivot front, single pivot rear), Chorus FD 
(31.8 clamp), and Record RD 10s part (has a bit of carbon but rest aluminum). 
Mechanically, this group is sound. There are some scratches and scuffs here and 
there and some surface rust. It'd definitely a rider group, not a showcase 
group. Tons of like left in this group. Just don't have a bike to put them on.

$300 for the package; I'd like to sell as a set before parting out.

(ii) Wheelset: Silver Open Pros 32h built of Hugi 240 hubs (Silver) with Campy 
cassette body (should work for 10 or 11 speed cassette as well as the later 
9s). These were built by Joe Young of Joe Young wheels. Great shape. The rims 
do show wear typical of a used rim. I'm guessing you could get at least a few 
more years of use out of them. No skewers.

I'd like $300 for the wheelset, which is less than the hubs would cost brand 
new and these hubs last forever.

I prefer paypal. 

Thanks,

Joe

Joe Bartoe

Synaptic Cycles Bicycle Rentals, Inc.
email: j...@synapticcycles.com
website: www.synapticcycles.com
Twitter: @synapticcycles

phone: 949-374-6079

  

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RE: [RBW] duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Yup.  New SA Duomatic coaster brake hub waiting for frame. 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of jandrews_nyc
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 8:13 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] duomatic

Anyone planning to go new or n.o.s. 2 speed kickback hub on their new Simpleone?

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[RBW] Re: duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread jandrews_nyc
interesting...
I'm considering the freewheel version.  This is available I think.
Does anyone have experience with the newer SA ones?  Comments of their
quality would be very helpful.
I imagine it could get a little expensive having a wheel built up
around one of these instead of buying a budget single speed wheelset
from Riv...so, I want to know what I'm getting into.
I do love the idea of kicking back to engage a 2nd gear, but something
about it seems precarious / tricky.

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[RBW] Re: Lawyer Lips?

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike


On May 7, 12:53 pm, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote:
 I could be wrong, but I think this is a Waterford stipulation, not a
 Riv one. My 2009 Taiwanese Sam does not have lawyers lips, nor any
 other lawyer parts.

 Gernot


If it is a stipulation, it must not be a consistent one.I have a
waterford tourer that doesn't have 'em, and waterford bombadil doesn't
have them, but a Panasonic quickbeam that does have them.

 Maybe it has more to do with whatever dropouts the builder has laying
around at the time...   :D


Matt

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[RBW] Re: duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
I've heard good things about these and am intrigued by the shifting
mechanism, but don't think I'd be that into the coaster brake. I'm
just hoping Rivendell is bringing back the Q/R Suzue hubs-they,
uh, shift pretty reliably too heh heh.


Matt


On May 7, 2:31 pm, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 interesting...
 I'm considering the freewheel version.  This is available I think.
 Does anyone have experience with the newer SA ones?  Comments of their
 quality would be very helpful.
 I imagine it could get a little expensive having a wheel built up
 around one of these instead of buying a budget single speed wheelset
 from Riv...so, I want to know what I'm getting into.
 I do love the idea of kicking back to engage a 2nd gear, but something
 about it seems precarious / tricky.

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RE: [RBW] Re: duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
Yeah, if I had it to do over again, I'd go for the f/w version, too.  I was 
thinking you could build a really clean-looking bike (no brake calipers or 
levers, no derailleurs (obviously) or shifters), but now I'm thinking I don't 
want to rely solely on a coaster brake, so I'll probably have a Neo-Retro on 
the front. 

-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of newenglandbike
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 2:42 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: duomatic

I've heard good things about these and am intrigued by the shifting
mechanism, but don't think I'd be that into the coaster brake. I'm
just hoping Rivendell is bringing back the Q/R Suzue hubs-they,
uh, shift pretty reliably too heh heh.


Matt


On May 7, 2:31 pm, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 interesting...
 I'm considering the freewheel version.  This is available I think.
 Does anyone have experience with the newer SA ones?  Comments of their 
 quality would be very helpful.
 I imagine it could get a little expensive having a wheel built up 
 around one of these instead of buying a budget single speed wheelset 
 from Riv...so, I want to know what I'm getting into.
 I do love the idea of kicking back to engage a 2nd gear, but something 
 about it seems precarious / tricky.

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RE: [RBW] Re: duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
I'm using an 8 speed SA hub with a drum brake (on an '80s Fuji mountain bike), 
and it seems to be well built, no problems so far. Haven't built the Duomatic 
wheel yet, but the level of finish seems comparable to the 8 speed. Bobby 
Birmingham, who posts frequently to this group, seems to have extensive 
experience with modern SA hubs.  montclairbob...@gmail.com


-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of jandrews_nyc
Sent: Saturday, May 07, 2011 2:31 PM
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Subject: [RBW] Re: duomatic

interesting...
I'm considering the freewheel version.  This is available I think.
Does anyone have experience with the newer SA ones?  Comments of their quality 
would be very helpful.
I imagine it could get a little expensive having a wheel built up around one of 
these instead of buying a budget single speed wheelset from Riv...so, I want to 
know what I'm getting into.
I do love the idea of kicking back to engage a 2nd gear, but something about it 
seems precarious / tricky.

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or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) promoting, marketing or 
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Re: [RBW] A small step forward?

2011-05-07 Thread Stuart Fletcher
In a short video linked to from the Velo News piece that starts this
thread there's some really cool looking high speed / slow-mo close up
footage of bicycle tires deforming over the cobblestones.  I've never
seen anything like it  found it very interesting (or maybe mostly
cool looking...)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QSpuhIQg1A

I found the footage compelling enough that I thought others might like
to see it too.  (Apologies if this has made the rounds.)

Stuart Fletcher
Seattle, WA

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 07:46, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
 Vindication!!!


 On Fri, May 6, 2011 at 10:59 PM, Big Paulie pauldgr...@yahoo.com wrote:


 http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/05/bikes-and-tech/ask-nick-fat-tire-fun-and-mavic-race-support_171343

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 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 ...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably
 benefit more from
 improving their taste than from improving their performance. - RTMS

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[RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
Well I guess I'd rather it be called a toy than a fashion accessory,
which is what many peoples' cars amount to.   Not that my bikes aren't
actually fashion accessories, which of course they are.   *carefully
coiffes hair*

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[RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread charlie
They really are unnecessary devices for the most part. I suppose if
you use your bicycle as a commuter and a general way of getting around
it becomes more of a tool but it soon takes on that grungy look of
your 1992 Suzuki automobile sitting in the driveway.  I find the
maintenance issues that surround real high mileage riding quickly turn
bicycling into something less than fun..for me. I like riding a
pretty bicycle on a sunny day and I have no guilt about it.life is
too short not to enjoy it now. Three cheers for expensive toys !!!
I'm leaving mine to whomever can appreciate them.

On May 7, 10:32 am, grant grant...@gmail.com wrote:
 It could have been worse: Toys. To my way of thinking, toys is
 actualy better---but it's kind of the same. Toys are playthings and
 both are for fun. Tools are for work, which can be satisfying, but
 often isn't fun. I think, at some level we find it easier to justify
 spending more on tools for serious work than on toys for playful
 fun...but there's too much serious work going on in many of our lives,
 and not enough playful fun, so...shift more toward the fun stuff...and
 to me (and I woulds guess most of you, and certainly for my comrade in
 fun Patrick Moore), bikes are fun toys! But it's all just labels, I
 guess, and as long as the playful element is there, I guess it doesn't
 matter how you describe them.

 B,

 Grant I sell expensive toys Petersen

 On May 6, 7:36 am, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com wrote:







  u...did Grant really call bikes playthings in the new reader?

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[RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
On May 7, 3:29 pm, charlie charles_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
 They really are unnecessary devices for the most part. I suppose if
 you use your bicycle as a commuter and a general way of getting around
 it becomes more of a tool but it soon takes on that grungy look of
 your 1992 Suzuki automobile sitting in the driveway.  

The USA really is a unique place, and our treatment of bicycles is no
exception.  Yet in some parts of the world, to some people, a
bicycle is about as unnecessary as a plow.And that may be selling
it short.

This is from Energy and Equity, by Ivan Illich:

Man, unaided by any tool, gets around quite efficiently. He carries
one gram of his weight over a kilometer in ten minutes by expending
0.75 calories. Man on his feet is thermodynamically more efficient
than any motorized vehicle and most animals. For his weight, he
performs more work in locomotion than rats or oxen, less than horses
or sturgeon. At this rate of efficiency man settled the world and made
its history.

Man on a bicycle can go three or four times faster than the
pedestrian, but uses five times less energy in the process. He carries
one gram of his weight over a kilometer of flat road at an expense of
only 0.15 calories. The bicycle is the perfect transducer to match
man's metabolic energy to the impedance of locomotion. Equipped with
this tool, man outstrips the efficiency of not only all machines but
all other animals as well.

The invention of the ball-bearing... created an option between more
freedom in equity and more speed.The bearing is an equally
fundamental ingredient of two new types of locomotion, respectively
symbolized by the bicycle and the car.   The bicycle lifted man's
automobility to a new order, beyond which progress is theoretically
not possible.

Bicycles are not only thermodynamically efficient, they are also
cheap. With his much lower salary, the Chinese acquires his durable
bicycle in a fraction of the working hours an American devotes to the
purchase of his obsolescent car. The cost of public utilities needed
to facilitate bicycle traffic versus the price of an infrastructure
tailored to high speeds is proportionately even less than the price
differential of the vehicles used in the two systems. In the bicycle
system, engineered roads are necessary only at certain points of dense
traffic, and people who live far from the surfaced path are not
thereby automatically isolated as they would be if they depended on
cars or trains. The bicycle has extended man's radius without shunting
him onto roads he cannot walk. Where he cannot ride his bike, he can
usually push it.

The bicycle also uses little space. Eighteen bikes can be parked in
the place of one car, thirty of them can move along in the space
devoured by a single automobile. It takes three lanes of a given size
to move 40,000 people across a bridge in one hour by using automated
trains, four to move them on buses, twelve to move them in their cars,
and only two lanes for them to pedal across on bicycles. Of all these
vehicles, only the bicycle really allows people to go from door to
door without walking. The cyclist can reach new destinations of his
choice without his tool creating new locations from which he is
barred. 



Now if you'll excuse me, I have some errands to run.*hops on pogo-
stick and bounces over horizon*

Matt

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Re: [RBW] duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
How is the braking, and the non-braking drag, with those 2-speeds?
I've been tempted to build up a backup wheel for one or both of my Riv
fixed gears using these hubs because they would allow, in addition to
a climbing gear, coasting with the safety of a rear brake while not
requiring me to install rear calipers.

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 12:03 PM, Allingham II, Thomas J
thomas.alling...@skadden.com wrote:
 Yup.  New SA Duomatic coaster brake hub waiting for frame.

 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
 [mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of jandrews_nyc
 Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 8:13 PM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] duomatic

 Anyone planning to go new or n.o.s. 2 speed kickback hub on their new 
 Simpleone?

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 To ensure compliance with Treasury Department regulations, we advise you 
 that, unless otherwise expressly indicated, any federal tax advice contained 
 in this message was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, 
 for the purpose of (i) avoiding tax-related penalties under the Internal 
 Revenue Code or applicable state or local tax law provisions or (ii) 
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 addressed herein.
 
 

 This email (and any attachments thereto) is intended only for use by the 
 addressee(s) named herein and may contain legally privileged and/or 
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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Re: duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread Philip Williamson
I've been happy with the S3X from Sturmey Archer. I think the quality
is good. I'm still considering the S2 (non-coaster brake) kickback,
and I have a vintage Sachs Automatic (like the kickback but no
kicking) that I enjoyed on my Quickbeam.

I think you could build an extremely cheap wheel around the S2 hub. ~
$100, using cheap wheel parts from Iro Cycles.

IRO cycles has $15 rims (non-eyeletted), and might have spokes for
cheap, as well. Tony said to call him about the spokes a couple weeks
ago, but I didn't. The size I bought from him before were perfect for
the S3X and Cold Fusion rim he sells, which may or may not be an
unbranded Velocity Fusion. He also has $20 hubs, but the colors might
not appeal to everyone.

My ideal (non-fixed) wheelset would be a Shimano dynamo hub and S/A
S2.
Built with Iro's rims and spokes, it would be a fantastic value.
  $30 :: Rims $15 x 2
  $32 :: Spokes $16 for 32 (?? could be double this)
  $68 :: S2 hub
$120 :: Shimano dyno hub.
$8 :: Rim tape
_
$258 for a generator wheel and kickback hub. And there are cheaper
dyno hubs.

 Philip

 Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com

On May 7, 11:31 am, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.com wrote:
 interesting...
 I'm considering the freewheel version.  This is available I think.
 Does anyone have experience with the newer SA ones?  Comments of their
 quality would be very helpful.
 I imagine it could get a little expensive having a wheel built up
 around one of these instead of buying a budget single speed wheelset
 from Riv...so, I want to know what I'm getting into.
 I do love the idea of kicking back to engage a 2nd gear, but something
 about it seems precarious / tricky.

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[RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
The USA really is a unique place, and our treatment of bicycles is no
exception.  Yet in some parts of the world, to some people, a
bicycle is about as unnecessary as a plow.And that may be selling
it short.

This is from Energy and Equity, by Ivan Illich:

Man, unaided by any tool, gets around quite efficiently. He carries
one gram of his weight over a kilometer in ten minutes by expending
0.75 calories. Man on his feet is thermodynamically more efficient
than any motorized vehicle and most animals. For his weight, he
performs more work in locomotion than rats or oxen, less than horses
or sturgeon. At this rate of efficiency man settled the world and made
its history.

Man on a bicycle can go three or four times faster than the
pedestrian, but uses five times less energy in the process. He carries
one gram of his weight over a kilometer of flat road at an expense of
only 0.15 calories. The bicycle is the perfect transducer to match
man's metabolic energy to the impedance of locomotion. Equipped with
this tool, man outstrips the efficiency of not only all machines but
all other animals as well.

The invention of the ball-bearing... created an option between more
freedom in equity and more speed.The bearing is an equally
fundamental ingredient of two new types of locomotion, respectively
symbolized by the bicycle and the car.   The bicycle lifted man's
automobility to a new order, beyond which progress is theoretically
not possible.

Bicycles are not only thermodynamically efficient, they are also
cheap. With his much lower salary, the Chinese acquires his durable
bicycle in a fraction of the working hours an American devotes to the
purchase of his obsolescent car. The cost of public utilities needed
to facilitate bicycle traffic versus the price of an infrastructure
tailored to high speeds is proportionately even less than the price
differential of the vehicles used in the two systems. In the bicycle
system, engineered roads are necessary only at certain points of dense
traffic, and people who live far from the surfaced path are not
thereby automatically isolated as they would be if they depended on
cars or trains. The bicycle has extended man's radius without shunting
him onto roads he cannot walk. Where he cannot ride his bike, he can
usually push it.

The bicycle also uses little space. Eighteen bikes can be parked in
the place of one car, thirty of them can move along in the space
devoured by a single automobile. It takes three lanes of a given size
to move 40,000 people across a bridge in one hour by using automated
trains, four to move them on buses, twelve to move them in their cars,
and only two lanes for them to pedal across on bicycles. Of all these
vehicles, only the bicycle really allows people to go from door to
door without walking. The cyclist can reach new destinations of his
choice without his tool creating new locations from which he is
barred. 

Now if you'll excuse me, I have some errands to run.*hops on pogo-
stick and bounces over horizon*

Matt

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[RBW] FS - 64cm Trek TX500 Custom, NOS Sugino AT, Phil BB, Nitto Dirt Drop

2011-05-07 Thread Marty
Spring cleaning time - and saving for a Simpleone.  I've dropped the
price on my beautifully restored Trek TX500, with custom Blackburn
Rando rack (a rear rack adapted for use up front) and Honjo Fenders.
Chris Bishop of Bishop Bikes (winner of best steel bike at this years'
NAHBS) did the framework - adding studs for Paul Racers, fender
eyelets etc. Perfect paint by Circle A, and they added the frame-
matching stripe to the Honjos. Also have a NOS 175mm Sugino AT
crankset (no rings) that would look great on this vintage ride, and
Phil BB with no use (115mm) and a used Nitto Dirt Drop stem with 26mm
clamp from another past build. (Most scratches below the MAX mark) The
bike was shown at last years' Cirque Du Cyclisme, and not ridden.

Frameset, fenders and rack = $700 and I'll split shipping.
AT Crankset = $75 + $5 shipping
Phil BB = $75 + $5 shipping
Dirt Drop Stem = $30 + $5 shipping

If anyone wants it all, it's yours for $825 and I'll split shipping 
throw in the matching vintage Silca floor pump that I had Circle A do
at the time they painted the frame  fenders, and is shown in the last
photo of the Flickr set below. It has the same Trek decals on it - so
if you buy the frame - you GOTTA get this! If you only want the frame,
or if other things sell first, I'll negotiate a fair price for the
pump.

Fist come. first served! PayPal preferred. Shipping on the frame will
have to wait until May 23ish due to travel. Other things can be sent
immediately. Reply offline - thanks.

http://tinyurl.com/3ru8myv

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[RBW] SimpleOne and Double/Double

2011-05-07 Thread andrew hill
Has anyone run a White Industries Double/Double drivetrain setup on their 
Quickbeam?
Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?

Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and front of 
either 38/35 or 34/31.

They suggest the 38/35 for a 26 mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a 29'er... but it 
seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly on-road riding bike.

Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be better than 31/19 
and 34/16...

Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be a great idea? 
:)

Best,
andrew

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne and Double/Double

2011-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
It is a cool concept, made even cooler, IMHO, by the copious length of
the QB dropout.   It's about 2. So, whereas with the WI 'double/
double', you get to choose between front rings 3-teeth apart, the
extra length of the Rivendell dropout gives you a mind-boggling span
of 8 teeth to play with on the front rings-- and with the 16/19 in the
rear, you can make that up to 11 teeth diff up front.Dang.

So basically, you can run a 16/19 in the rear, and a 40/32 double up
front, which comes stock with the new Simple One I believe.   Then you
put a 22t ACS f/w on the other side, and suddenly derailleurs start to
look quaint.*

-Matt



*OK not really




On May 7, 4:50 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone run a White Industries Double/Double drivetrain setup on their 
 Quickbeam?
 Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?

 Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and front of 
 either 38/35 or 34/31.

 They suggest the 38/35 for a 26 mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a 29'er... but 
 it seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly on-road riding 
 bike.

 Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be better than 
 31/19 and 34/16...

 Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be a great 
 idea? :)

 Best,
 andrew

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Re: [RBW] Stem Strength

2011-05-07 Thread Ken Freeman
OHH!  I knew that, once upon a time!

Cheers, back!

On Saturday, May 7, 2011, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Actual, the polar moment of inertia is to the 4th power: 
 PI()(D^4-d^4)/32.Cheers!

 James Valiensi, PENorthridge, CAH818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



 On May 7, 2011, at 5:29 AM, Ken Freeman wrote:
 Ok, so the steel stem has a larger OD AND a stiffer modulus.  Staying on the 
 back of an envelope, the ratio of 31.6^2 to 22.2^2 is about 2.  In which case 
 your calc requires the ratio of moduli to be about 5.  For steel it's about 
 30,000 ksi and for aluminum it's about 10,000 ksi.

 Not bad, for the back of an envelope, and no finite element work!!

 On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 1:15 AM, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
 Hey,
 My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will 
 deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal extensions 
 lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm diameter 
 extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension. The 
 extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not 
 significant here.
 By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
 If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter. And 
 steel too.
 And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the 
 stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the 
 bigger diameter overcame this.
 Cheers!
 James Valiensi, PE
 Northridge, CA
 H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796



 On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:

 When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
 stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
 more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
 much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
 steerer.

 Philip


 On May 6, 9:24 am, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
 Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
 standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
 had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
 cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
 stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
 the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.

 That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
 typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
 stems.

 Bill

 On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:







 The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
 various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
 There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
 years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
 did trigger this question from me.

 My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
 he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
 stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
 experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
 imagination.

 Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
 stem?

 michael

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Ann Arbor, MI USA

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[RBW] Rivendell Trailer Guy

2011-05-07 Thread Don Genovese
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46647848@N02/5697428318/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/46647848@N02/5697427126/

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[RBW] Re: Stem Strength

2011-05-07 Thread Michael_S
I was out riding today and thinking about this issue. Now  today I
had  the lugged Nitto steel stem on my Rando bike , about 7cm of quill
showing. If there is some flex, I sure can't tell. But, similarly on
the Ram with a Nitto Pearl and about 6cm to center of stem there was
still Nothing.  As I was climbing out of the saddle, I was analyzing
my technique. I learned a long time ago that you let the bike move and
you keep your body steady. That way there is little force on the stem
and bars to make them deflect.

~mike

On May 7, 2:06 pm, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.com wrote:
 OHH!  I knew that, once upon a time!

 Cheers, back!





 On Saturday, May 7, 2011, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
  Actual, the polar moment of inertia is to the 4th power: 
  PI()(D^4-d^4)/32.Cheers!

  James Valiensi, PENorthridge, CAH818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796

  On May 7, 2011, at 5:29 AM, Ken Freeman wrote:
  Ok, so the steel stem has a larger OD AND a stiffer modulus.  Staying on 
  the back of an envelope, the ratio of 31.6^2 to 22.2^2 is about 2.  In 
  which case your calc requires the ratio of moduli to be about 5.  For steel 
  it's about 30,000 ksi and for aluminum it's about 10,000 ksi.

  Not bad, for the back of an envelope, and no finite element work!!

  On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 1:15 AM, James Valiensi valie...@mac.com wrote:
  Hey,
  My back of the envelope calc's indicate a standard aluminum quill stem will 
  deflect about ten times more than a steel stem. This is with equal 
  extensions lengths and loads, and the aluminum stem has a solid 22.2mm 
  diameter extension, and the steel stem is 31.8mm OD w/ 25.4mm ID extension. 
  The extension into the fork vs. clamping on the outside of the fork are not 
  significant here.
  By the way, neither stem deflects that much.
  If you really want a stiff stem, use a short extension, and big diameter. 
  And steel too.
  And you know why they went to 31.8mm diameter handle bars? Because of the 
  stinking cable grooves. The grooves make the bar section too flexible, the 
  bigger diameter overcame this.
  Cheers!
  James Valiensi, PE
  Northridge, CA
  H818.775.1847 M.818.585.1796

  On May 6, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Philip Williamson wrote:

  When I got my Quickbeam, I tried a couple of stems, including the
  stock Technomic Deluxe and the Nitto Dirt Drop. Both flexed noticeably
  more than the Salsa welded stem I ended up with. The Dirt Drop not as
  much as the Technomic Deluxe, but the quill was bottomed out in the
  steerer.

  Philip

  On May 6, 9:24 am, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
  Back in 1991 I bought a Cannondale (very stiff frame) that came with a
  standard quill stem.  I swapped it out for a hollow, welded stem that
  had a much larger diameter extension.  The first time I stood up and
  cranked the bike up a short steep rise I was astonished at how much
  stiffer the front end of the bike felt.  The quill stem was allowing
  the bars to twist, the new one wasn't.

  That may or may not be seen as a good thing, but I have no doubt that
  typical threadless stems are stiffer in torsion than traditional quill
  stems.

  Bill

  On May 6, 3:58 am, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote:

  The new RR contains an article by GP outlining his believes about
  various aspects of  bike strength, comfort, weight, and comfort.
  There wasn't much new there for anyone who has followed him for a few
  years, including why he prefers threaded headsets and stems, but it
  did trigger this question from me.

  My son, who is 39 years old and a very muscular 170 lbs claims that
  he experiences stem flex while climbing with a traditional quill
  stem.  I am always disinclined to challenge people's subjective
  experience but I have never experienced this and suspect it is in his
  imagination.

  Has anyone here felt their stem flex and has anyone ever broken a
  stem?

  michael

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne and Double/Double

2011-05-07 Thread charlie
I have the 16/19 freewheel and use common road 36 and 39 tooth chain
rings in a double/double set up. I get a 51 and 66 inch gear out of
that with no movement in the dropout. I have this on an old 80's
Raleigh USA frame with somewhat short dropouts and the extra is used
just for chain wear. On my soon to be new Simple One (actually five) I
plan on the 16/19 and probably the 40/32 and a 22 tooth flip side
freewheel. I live in a hilly area so I have no need for higher flat
land gearing. This combo should give me all the range I really need on
my normal solo rides. On my geared bike I have a Mountain crank with
12-32 cassette and I get a real crawler out of that but admit I could
just as well dismount and walk using different muscles and at the same
time give my crotch a rest. Its not unlike the old TDF guys used to do
back in the 20's or whenever before derailleur gearing caught on and
they had to repair all their own machines.  I once tried a local hilly
15 mile road ride with just my 51 inch gear and it wasn't any slower
by much. My energy was used in the climbing. I coasted on the down
hills and spun, spun coasted on the flats. It was actually fairly
relaxing. I wouldn't allow myself to shift to the higher gear on the
flats and I could easily pedal 10-12 mph with that low gear. I see
kids riding their BMX bikes this way all the time using the spin, spin
coast approach.only difference is, I have a saddle at the proper
height. I think the new Simple One will be a fun bike to ride.

On May 7, 1:50 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone run a White Industries Double/Double drivetrain setup on their 
 Quickbeam?
 Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?

 Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and front of 
 either 38/35 or 34/31.

 They suggest the 38/35 for a 26 mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a 29'er... but 
 it seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly on-road riding 
 bike.

 Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be better than 
 31/19 and 34/16...

 Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be a great 
 idea? :)

 Best,
 andrew

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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne and Double/Double

2011-05-07 Thread charlie
Don't forget on a 26 inch wheel you get a lower gear due to wheel
diameter. The 38/35 with the 16/19 should be fine on a 700c road
machine with perhaps a higher fixed cog on the flip side if you are a
flat lander or instead a larger freewheel if you ride in the mountains
as I do.

On May 7, 1:50 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone run a White Industries Double/Double drivetrain setup on their 
 Quickbeam?
 Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?

 Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and front of 
 either 38/35 or 34/31.

 They suggest the 38/35 for a 26 mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a 29'er... but 
 it seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly on-road riding 
 bike.

 Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be better than 
 31/19 and 34/16...

 Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be a great 
 idea? :)

 Best,
 andrew

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[RBW] Atlantis setup help

2011-05-07 Thread JL
Hello all,

I am looking for some advice with setting up a new to me Atlantis.
The problem I am having is that the saddle feels so low compared to
the front end.  Almost like I am riding a chopper-bike.  It is the
strangest thing and I want help to fix the situation.  I tried
lowering the bars - that didn't help. I moved my saddle slightly
forward from how I would normally ride it and switched to a seat post
with less setback -that helped some.  Could the tire compression in
the rear add that much into the mix (26x1.75)?  I am accustomed to big
soft tires (hetres) and the Atlantis has a steeper seat tube than
other bikes I am comfortable on.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis setup help

2011-05-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Can you post photos? What sort of bars and what sort of stem?

Do you feel as if you are sitting so upright that you can't generate
adequate power on the pedals?

Just possibly your saddle needs to go back on the rails. I've found
that a rearward saddle position works well -- that is, gives me a
comfortable back, moderates the weight on shoulders, arms and hands,
and gives me the most power for a given effort -- with bars of
surprisingly different altitudes, from 5 cm below to 8 cm above the
saddle. There seems to be, for me, a certain angle of torso to
hips/legs that I need for said comfort and power, and if that angle is
too shallow, it doesn't matter how high or low the bars, all feels
awkward.

You might take a look at Peter Jon White's site on bike setup,
particularly the part on fore-and-aft saddle position. (PJW's site is
wordy and rather hard to navigate, but the content is worth the
effort.)

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 4:54 PM, JL subfas...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello all,

 I am looking for some advice with setting up a new to me Atlantis.
 The problem I am having is that the saddle feels so low compared to
 the front end.  Almost like I am riding a chopper-bike.  It is the
 strangest thing and I want help to fix the situation.  I tried
 lowering the bars - that didn't help. I moved my saddle slightly
 forward from how I would normally ride it and switched to a seat post
 with less setback -that helped some.  Could the tire compression in
 the rear add that much into the mix (26x1.75)?  I am accustomed to big
 soft tires (hetres) and the Atlantis has a steeper seat tube than
 other bikes I am comfortable on.

 Does anyone have any suggestions?

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-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis setup help

2011-05-07 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I forgot to add that the remarks below apply, in my case, even to my
Fargo with 65 mm wide tires that I run as low as 12 front/16 rear for
our local sand -- no, it's not a question of tire pressure.

On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 5:27 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can you post photos? What sort of bars and what sort of stem?

 Do you feel as if you are sitting so upright that you can't generate
 adequate power on the pedals?

 Just possibly your saddle needs to go back on the rails. I've found
 that a rearward saddle position works well -- that is, gives me a
 comfortable back, moderates the weight on shoulders, arms and hands,
 and gives me the most power for a given effort -- with bars of
 surprisingly different altitudes, from 5 cm below to 8 cm above the
 saddle. There seems to be, for me, a certain angle of torso to
 hips/legs that I need for said comfort and power, and if that angle is
 too shallow, it doesn't matter how high or low the bars, all feels
 awkward.

 You might take a look at Peter Jon White's site on bike setup,
 particularly the part on fore-and-aft saddle position. (PJW's site is
 wordy and rather hard to navigate, but the content is worth the
 effort.)

 On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 4:54 PM, JL subfas...@gmail.com wrote:
 Hello all,

 I am looking for some advice with setting up a new to me Atlantis.
 The problem I am having is that the saddle feels so low compared to
 the front end.  Almost like I am riding a chopper-bike.  It is the
 strangest thing and I want help to fix the situation.  I tried
 lowering the bars - that didn't help. I moved my saddle slightly
 forward from how I would normally ride it and switched to a seat post
 with less setback -that helped some.  Could the tire compression in
 the rear add that much into the mix (26x1.75)?  I am accustomed to big
 soft tires (hetres) and the Atlantis has a steeper seat tube than
 other bikes I am comfortable on.

 Does anyone have any suggestions?

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 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW
 patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.
 (Rilke, Buddha in Glory)




-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com

A billion stars go spinning through the night
Blazing high above your head;
But in you is the Presence that will be
When all the stars are dead.
(Rilke, Buddha in Glory)

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[RBW] Pannier Anchor for Nitto R-15

2011-05-07 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
Hi!

I really like my Nitto R-15 rack. It's basically an R-14 with pannier supports:

http://db.tt/q5cZmYx

But what it doesn't have is pannier anchors for the bottom. And though I know 
that aren't absolutely essential, I do like using my TourSacks' bungee ball 
lower attachments for stabilization.

So now I have this:

http://db.tt/Nqvjvt6

Those are just the Nitto band clamps that RBW sells. And though the whole area 
looks a little busy there, the clamps thenselves don't look too bad.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: A small step forward?

2011-05-07 Thread EricP
Okay, I'll admit to being surprised.  Didn't think there were any race
type bikes out there besides the Roadeo that took anything other than
superskinny tires.  Well, except for customs and one-offs for races
like Paris Roubaix.

Am now to the point where I think even 35mm is skinny.  To each their
own.

Eric Platt
St Paul, MN

On May 7, 2:02 pm, Stuart Fletcher stuart.fletc...@gmail.com wrote:
 In a short video linked to from the Velo News piece that starts this
 thread there's some really cool looking high speed / slow-mo close up
 footage of bicycle tires deforming over the cobblestones.  I've never
 seen anything like it  found it very interesting (or maybe mostly
 cool looking...)

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QSpuhIQg1A

 I found the footage compelling enough that I thought others might like
 to see it too.  (Apologies if this has made the rounds.)

 Stuart Fletcher
 Seattle, WA



 On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 07:46, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
  Vindication!!!

  On Fri, May 6, 2011 at 10:59 PM, Big Paulie pauldgr...@yahoo.com wrote:

 http://velonews.competitor.com/2011/05/bikes-and-tech/ask-nick-fat-ti...

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  Cheers,
  David
  Redlands, CA

  ...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would probably
  benefit more from
  improving their taste than from improving their performance. - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Re: SimpleOne and Double/Double

2011-05-07 Thread Robert Harrison
My QB has a 40/32 in front and the 16/19 in the rear. It also has a solo 22 
back the which does come in handy when laden down with camping gear and facing 
a couple of hills around here. In town I tend to run 40/19 because I can get 
off the line faster in traffic. Once out on the open road it's back to 40/16. 

Not thinking about what gear I'm in is great. During the week I'm in commuter 
mode, on weekend it's open road mode and maybe once a quarter I camp.

Aloha,

Bob

Sent from my iPad

On May 7, 2011, at 11:00 AM, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:

 It is a cool concept, made even cooler, IMHO, by the copious length of
 the QB dropout.   It's about 2. So, whereas with the WI 'double/
 double', you get to choose between front rings 3-teeth apart, the
 extra length of the Rivendell dropout gives you a mind-boggling span
 of 8 teeth to play with on the front rings-- and with the 16/19 in the
 rear, you can make that up to 11 teeth diff up front.Dang.
 
 So basically, you can run a 16/19 in the rear, and a 40/32 double up
 front, which comes stock with the new Simple One I believe.   Then you
 put a 22t ACS f/w on the other side, and suddenly derailleurs start to
 look quaint.*
 
 -Matt
 
 
 
 *OK not really
 
 
 
 
 On May 7, 4:50 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote:
 Has anyone run a White Industries Double/Double drivetrain setup on their 
 Quickbeam?
 Or maybe has plans to on their SimpleOne?
 
 Seems like a nice combination - rear Duo freewheel of 16/19, and front of 
 either 38/35 or 34/31.
 
 They suggest the 38/35 for a 26 mtn bike, and the 38/35 for a 29'er... but 
 it seems to me that the 38/35 would be best for a 700c mostly on-road riding 
 bike.
 
 Am I confused?  e.g. 38/16 and 35/19 seem like they would be better than 
 31/19 and 34/16...
 
 Anyone try this yet, or have a thought as to why this wouldn't be a great 
 idea? :)
 
 Best,
 andrew
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread Bill Gibson (III)
It's the pesky vehicular cycling meme. Bikes aren't toys they're
vehicles!!! I am guilty. But, I am a lover of bicycles like most people are
lovers of cars. They make me smile big, even those of the POS brand that
have always been around, no matter where made or assembled...
-- 
Bill Gibson
Tempe, Arizona, USA

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[RBW] Riv Rally East Pics!!!

2011-05-07 Thread Montclair BobbyB
Today Riv Rally East kicked off with a stellar ride through the
beautiful Pine Creek Gorge in North Central Pennsylvania.  Our group
numbered 8, with folks coming from as far away as Cleveland and
Washington DC.

The weather started out perfect, and remained so for the first half of
the ride.   But eventually the clouds rolled in and we got our first
10-minute rain shower, followed by more gorgeous weather.  Then the
BIG clouds rolled in, and we got a nice dousing of heavy rain, wind
and lightning... NOW WE HAD OURSELVES A RIDE!!!

The rain only lasted 30 minutes or so, but we were compelled to seek
shelter after getting soaked for only 10 minutes.  Then the weather
turned gorgeous once again... such is spring in the wilds of Central
PA.

It was a beautiful ride through some beautiful country... Our group
enjoyed today's ride; tomorrow we'll choose a slightly shorter route.
By all accounts, Riv Rally East has been a success so far... There is
definite interest in a Riv Rally 2012.

Here are a few pics... http://tinyurl.com/66re7ty

Peace,
BB

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[RBW] Re: Riv Rally East Pics!!!

2011-05-07 Thread Pondero
Excellent.  The whole wade-across-the-river thing is an awful nice
touch.

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Re: [RBW] duomatic

2011-05-07 Thread Reed Kennedy
After breaking my first Sturmey S3X three speed fix hub I was super excited
by the prospect of replacing it with a S2c duomatic kick shift hub. I went
out to Mission Bicycles here in San Francisco where they even had a
S2-hubed-bike (the one without the coaster brake) in stock.

They were happy to let me try it out, but they warned it was not the most
user friendly of things. Hard to shift, and hard to know if you shifted,
they said.

Pah! I said. I'm sure an old hand like myself will have no troubles! And off
I went.

Indeed, by the time I got back (a couple miles later) I could shift reliably
50-75% of the time. I was feeling quite accomplished.

Then I thought: How much do I really want a heavy, inefficient, difficult to
operate, potentially fragile hub that only gives a 38% range?

No Duomatics for me, thanks. I'll stick with either a true single speed or a
bigger range, like a Sturmey 5 or a Alfine 8.

(Or, if you are looking for something silly, a S3X. My second one now has 30
miles on it and is doing fine so far.)


Best,
Reed

On Fri, May 6, 2011 at 5:12 PM, jandrews_nyc jasonaschwa...@gmail.comwrote:

 Anyone planning to go new or n.o.s. 2 speed kickback hub on their new
 Simpleone?

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[RBW] Re: Riv reader, playthings?

2011-05-07 Thread archangel
words. i think playthings works well... personally, i've used
therapists, spirit guides, low-tech transporters, environmentalists,
creative muses, etc. to describe RBW's bikes.  who doesn't like fun
though. and more than anything, my AHH with 40cm noodles and 40mm
schwalbes is FUN!

On May 6, 9:36 am, Bike Hermit bikeher...@biketouringnews.com wrote:
 u...did Grant really call bikes playthings in the new reader?

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[RBW] Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

2011-05-07 Thread BCDrums
My bike has a Shimano XT front derailer from 1990. It has given good
service, but I'd like to change it out. Rivendell and Harris Cyclery
sell the IRD for this setup. I have read raves about the Campy Racing
T, but it seems to be gone. I am not sure which Shimano is the
appropriate replacement.

I read somewhere that the IRD is a copy of an Ultegra, is that the
case?

I shift with Shimano bar-ends, and my bike has 1.25 tubes. Since I
only change front ders every 20 years, I'd like to get a great one and
be done with it. Any recommendations appreciated!

BC

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[RBW] Re: NYC Bike Shops

2011-05-07 Thread Alex
I have been to Bespoke Bicycles a few times. Small, charming, and the
people who work there are sort of down with the whole Riv point of
view. They have copies of BQ in a rack by the cash register and stock
VO parts and accessories. They don't actually sell any Riv products,
to my knowledge.




On May 7, 8:10 am, Will M wpm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Howdy -- a NYC shop I've been wanting to visit is Brooklyn's 
 ne.bespoke-bicycles.com.  Learned about them when the founder posted
 this on EcoVelo:http://bit.ly/hkvbwf... Rivish?

 In Manhattan, has anyone found anything more Rivish than Bicycle
 Habitat (244  250 Lafayette Street)?

 I've been having fun taking my Ram to my LBS (Sids on W 19th St) which
 caters to racers and urban hipsters and is decidedly non-Rivish.  I
 say fun because every time I swing by with the bike, I educate the
 employees a little about how bikes should be designed.  (The bike gets
 a lot of attention from customers and employees alike when in their
 shop.  What is that?  Cool bike, man.  How old is that bike,
 dude? Why do you have such a huge frame?)  For a while they had a
 mechanic from SF who knew all about Bridgestone and Riv, but he went
 back home.

 I second the vote for rivbike.com and roadtrips to Harris in W.
 Newton, MA.

 Will

 On May 5, 2:56 pm, Cycletex clifwrightpho...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Anyone have NYC bike shop suggestions that a Riv lover shouldn't miss
  out on?

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[RBW] Re: NYC Bike Shops

2011-05-07 Thread Peter F
Hudson Urban Bikes might be more Riv-ish than Bike Habitat - or a
least more commuter and cargo bike oriented.

But BH is a pretty decent place.  I took a 6 week bicycle mechanics
class at Bike Habitat that was very educational. And whenever I stop
by there with my Atlantis with moustache bars, it's gets admired in an
appreciative way. They serve a broad constituency, but it's a decent
LBS. And they'll generally do quick fixes and tweaks on the spot while
you wait, whereas a lot of places in the city will want you to leave
the bike for a couple days until they get to it. And BH's lead
mechanic, Hal, is something of a local superstar in the NYC bicycling
world. Always entertaining to talk with him.



On May 7, 8:10 am, Will M wpm...@gmail.com wrote:
 Howdy -- a NYC shop I've been wanting to visit is Brooklyn's 
 ne.bespoke-bicycles.com.  Learned about them when the founder posted
 this on EcoVelo:http://bit.ly/hkvbwf... Rivish?

 In Manhattan, has anyone found anything more Rivish than Bicycle
 Habitat (244  250 Lafayette Street)?

 I've been having fun taking my Ram to my LBS (Sids on W 19th St) which
 caters to racers and urban hipsters and is decidedly non-Rivish.  I
 say fun because every time I swing by with the bike, I educate the
 employees a little about how bikes should be designed.  (The bike gets
 a lot of attention from customers and employees alike when in their
 shop.  What is that?  Cool bike, man.  How old is that bike,
 dude? Why do you have such a huge frame?)  For a while they had a
 mechanic from SF who knew all about Bridgestone and Riv, but he went
 back home.

 I second the vote for rivbike.com and roadtrips to Harris in W.
 Newton, MA.

 Will

 On May 5, 2:56 pm, Cycletex clifwrightpho...@yahoo.com wrote:



  Anyone have NYC bike shop suggestions that a Riv lover shouldn't miss
  out on?

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Acorn Boxy Rando bag

2011-05-07 Thread Zaelia
Hi Ryan:

Looks very nice. Mind me asking what your setup is and how long it
took to receive your Swift Ozette after placing your order? Is that a
Velo Orange decaleur kit? Would you be willing to write a little
something outlining the setup process?

Thanks

On May 6, 5:26 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
 I just got one.  
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/30684316@N08/5682342304/in/photostream

 Ryan

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