[RBW] WTB 170mm Cranks triple 110/74 bcd

2012-05-31 Thread Michael Williams
Hey group,   just wondering if anyone has a set of older cranks( with
or without chainrings) for sale.Looking for 170mm arm,  triple
with 5 bolt 110/74 bcd,   older MTB/touring,   maybe forged
Condition is not important so long as they are funtional.   looking to
spen 40ish including shipping.thanks in advance!-Mike

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Re: [RBW] Re: 56cm Homer Hilsen for Sale-Orange

2012-05-31 Thread Peter Morgano
Chris,  I got alot of compliments out riding already,  people love the
color, but no offers yet which is a bit surprising.  I need to sell
somewhat fast or my wife will pretty much kill me so how about $1050
shipped and I will include the Kool stop pads?  Just looking to make room
for new to me Atlantis but it is almost time to pay for summer camp so
pressure is on me to sell fast.  Thanks all.

Peter
On May 31, 2012 10:45 PM, "Pondero"  wrote:

> Hey, there's ol' faithful!
>
> Peter, I'm sorry to hear that it didn't solve your fit concerns.
>  Hopefully, someone in this group can give it a good home and post the the
> occasional photo so I can remember the good times.
>
> I submitted multiple bikoo entries for Grant's contest about this
> frameset.  Here's a just couple...
>
> out of winter’s fog
>
> into the sun he surges
>
> Homer’s pilot soars
>
>
> and
>
>
>
> over windblown heights
>
> through spooky shady valleys
>
> Homer never fails
>
>
> I'm guessing the judges are still trying to decide which of these two is
> the winner.
>
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[RBW] Re: Bosco Rubbe Nubar on my Hunqapillar... first test

2012-05-31 Thread René Sterental
Tested the Bosco bars on the dirt today and my previous assessment was
proven correct. Perfectly comfortable, great maneuverability, no issues
climbing or descending. Great handling on singletrack. I came home with no
hand, neck or shoulder pain at all.

Ordered a second set today to test on the Betty or the Atlantis so will be
putting a slightly used set of regular 150mm Bullmoose bars for sale
shortly.

Verdict: possibly the best bars for me.

René

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Re: [RBW] Re: S240 Ride Report- Diablo/TOC 2012

2012-05-31 Thread Jim M.
On Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:18:49 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>
> And I remember the cool, humid summer air around San Francisco -- I 
> guess that you get the same around Walnut Creek? 
>
>
Ha! It was 90 today in the Creek, and dry, though not as dry as New Mexico. 
We were probably 25 degrees warmer than SF. It's a very different climate 
here, but I agree about the beauty. Here and New Mexico are my 2 favorite 
places. 

jim m
wc ca

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Jim M.
I use one for my mountain bike riding, which is an upright position, and 
it's the most convenient way to carry enough water for a long wilderness 
ride. For a road biking position, however, I don't find the pack 
comfortable; it becomes much more obvious when I'm bent over more. I'd say 
just carry another bottle, especially if you have a clamp on cage already.

jim m
wc ca

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:10:26 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water 
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I 
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the 
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water. 
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've 
> never used one. 
>
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term) 
> on your back on a hot day? 
>
> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold? 
>
> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any? 
>
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared 
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax" 
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I 
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back. 
>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket? 
>
> -- 
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you." 
>
> Flannery O'Connor 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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[RBW] Re: Cleaning Rims?

2012-05-31 Thread Zack
'twas indeed embedded metal, there was a ton of it.  i have no idea how 
that happened, brake pads are like three weeks old.  

On Saturday, May 12, 2012 6:11:14 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:
>
> Any protips for cleaning rims?
>
> i have seen people talk about using super light grade sandpaper, 
> simplegreen, rubbing alcohol, soap and water, etc.
>
> what do you guys do to clean up your rims? 
>
> I currently have some dirty rims, and i can hear the dirt on the front 
> wheel when i am braking, so i am pretty sure i need to clean the pads and 
> the rim up, wondering what is best method to do it!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bosco bars have arrived...

2012-05-31 Thread Thomas Lynn Skean
The Bosco has arrived (non-'moose)! Tomorrow I build it up and incorporate it 
into the cockpit rotation. Wood grips, stem shifters, love levers, nekkid bar 
(for now; probably shellacked Newbaum's later). Pictures will come forth.

Yours,
Thomas Lynn Skean

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[RBW] Re: 56cm Homer Hilsen for Sale-Orange

2012-05-31 Thread Pondero
Hey, there's ol' faithful!

Peter, I'm sorry to hear that it didn't solve your fit concerns. 
 Hopefully, someone in this group can give it a good home and post the the 
occasional photo so I can remember the good times.

I submitted multiple bikoo entries for Grant's contest about this frameset. 
 Here's a just couple...

out of winter’s fog

into the sun he surges

Homer’s pilot soars


and

 

over windblown heights

through spooky shady valleys

Homer never fails


I'm guessing the judges are still trying to decide which of these two is 
the winner.

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[RBW] Grant/Harris book signing June 1 (time?)

2012-05-31 Thread mikel66...@juno.com
i thought the original posting said from 5-6pm but the Harris blog mentions 
6-7pm. can someone confirm the correct time of the book signing?
mike goldman
warwick,r.i.

5 Diet Pills that Work
2012's Top 5 Weight Loss Pills. Updated Consumer Ratings. Free Report.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4fc8289fc51d32263942st06duc

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Brewster Fong


On Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:57:38 PM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:
>
> White makes wonderful stuff.  
>
> If you absolutely need to have whisper quiet high end hubs, check out 
> Royce.  Not sure what they do differently than White, King or Phil, but 
> their hubs are very quiet and roll very smooth.  
>

If you want quiet, smooth and cheap hubs get Shimano. I have two pair of DA 
hub wheels and they are so smooth and quiet. I have friends with ultegra 
hubs and they're quiet too. Compare to alot of boutique hubs, these are the 
best.

>
> Royce are pricey little devils though.  As far as I know, the only way to 
> get them is to go to one of the high end UK on line shops.
>

At Total Cycling, Royce rear hub sells for about $255. Still cheaper than 
say CK and a bit less than a White Ind.hub. Good luck!
 

>
>
> Yeah, they're quieter than Chris Kings--more along the lines of Campy, and 
>> they have a very precision-instrument, high-quality ratchet sound.  Quite 
>> nice.  I resisted Boutique hubs for a long time, in favor of good ol' 
>> Shimano.  But I'd have a hard time not spec'ing WI for my next wheel 
>> build.  Quite impressed with them.
>>
>> Steve  
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Matthew J
White makes wonderful stuff.  

If you absolutely need to have whisper quiet high end hubs, check out 
Royce.  Not sure what they do differently than White, King or Phil, but 
their hubs are very quiet and roll very smooth.  

Royce are pricey little devils though.  As far as I know, the only way to 
get them is to go to one of the high end UK on line shops.


Yeah, they're quieter than Chris Kings--more along the lines of Campy, and 
> they have a very precision-instrument, high-quality ratchet sound.  Quite 
> nice.  I resisted Boutique hubs for a long time, in favor of good ol' 
> Shimano.  But I'd have a hard time not spec'ing WI for my next wheel 
> build.  Quite impressed with them.
>
> Steve  
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Michael Hechmer
I have noticed that a lot of people swap frames out with great rapidity. 
 Over the course of my life I have not done this and so my current 
collection of frames, all purchased new include, an '84 Trek, an 88 
Marinoni, a "99 Surly, a 2004 Rambouilet,a 
2008 Ebisu, and a 2009 Bilenky Tandem.  My wife rides an '84 Specialized 
Sequoia, purchased used, and my daughter is still riding the '85 Bianchi I 
purchased new for her brother.  Not having swapped frames around has 
allowed us to continually upgrade the wheels and components.  I have easily 
been able to add PW BB, White Hubs & cranks, Paul's brakes, Cane Creek 
levers, Alpina & White cranks and Nitto bling.  No regrets about buying the 
best components I could get.  I just may go for the Rene Herse Cranks on 
the Trek,  just because I don't like the looks or that awful hidden bolt on 
the Sugino.  At m my age a 44/34/24 is starting to have some appeal!

Michael   


On Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:05:12 PM UTC-4, Kelly wrote:
>
> Jan,
>
> It was my impression that 105 would actually out last ultra and dura-ace. 
>  It was heavier and was the best choice for touring bikes and such.  The 
> advantages of the Dura-Ace was weight and shifting ramps .. especially for 
> the sprinters.   For everyday riding the heavier gage material was stouter 
> and lasted longer.  My impression only no facts to back it up.  
> I did just retire a tour bike to loaner status that has been on the road 
> for  me since 2002 and still on the same group. (105)  
>
> Just because it's better for racing and cost more doesn't mean it's 
> "better" or will last longer.. shimano anyway.  My opinion only.. 
>
> Kelly
>
> On Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:04:50 AM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>>
>> I agree Jan,  but still have a hard time convincing my wife of this fact, 
>> Haha. 
>> On May 31, 2012 11:48 AM, "Jan Heine"  wrote:
>>
>>> On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote:
>>> > It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's 
>>> of
>>> > Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, 
>>> Sugino
>>> > cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with 
>>> CK
>>> > headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."
>>>
>>> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more
>>> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000
>>> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or
>>> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower
>>> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable
>>> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank
>>> with soft chainrings.
>>>
>>> I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being
>>> the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding
>>> seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I
>>> switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost
>>> three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the
>>> same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win
>>> situation, once you get over the sticker shock.
>>>
>>> Jan Heine
>>> Editor
>>> Bicycle Quarterly
>>> http://www.bikequarterly.com
>>>
>>> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
>>>  

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Michael Hechmer
A couple of years ago I bought a camel back for my wife, because she was 
uncomfortable reaching for a wb.  On our first ride with it we stopped for 
lunch at a small cafe, which had a large cooler of what turned out to be 
the foulest water imaginable.  It took a lot of baking soda and airing to 
get the smell out.  Even though we succeeded my wife has never been willing 
to use it again.  However, I use it on the tandem because she gets nervous 
when I let go of the HBs.

I would suggest a second WB, even if it required drilling threads into the 
DT.

Bottoms up laddie,
Michael

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 3:10:26 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water 
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I 
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the 
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water. 
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've 
> never used one. 
>
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term) 
> on your back on a hot day? 
>
> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold? 
>
> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any? 
>
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared 
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax" 
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I 
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back. 
>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket? 
>
> -- 
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you." 
>
> Flannery O'Connor 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Brian Hanson
True, but I'm used to zooms, and it was time to start working with primes
(for me).  I'll suffer through it - probably end up with a zoom soon :)

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 17:18 -0700, Brian Hanson wrote:
> > I almost went with an LX5/S100, but got a GF3 with a pancake lens so I
> > could get on the replaceable lens format while still keeping the body
> > very small.  There was a killer deal on it a few weeks back, so I took
> > the plunge.  So far, it seems to be nearly as easy to use while riding
> > as my old Elph.  Just need to nail a good harness...
>
> But that leaves you with just the one focal length (or needing to carry
> multiple lenses to get multiple focal lengths).  That might not be much
> of a big deal for "ordinary photography," but when you're taking photos
> on a bike ride you often don't have the time to get off the bike and
> walk around to get close enough.
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Bruce Herbitter
After years of resisting the idea of a back pack, I bought a Kelty last
year on sale at Academy Sport for $29.99 w/70 oz bladder. It has a screw on
cap like a Camelbak. A local buddy gave me an extra US Army issue Camelbak
bladder with insulated drink tube, and I bought a Hydra-sak bladder on sale
at Blue Sky Cycling.

I found that the weight on my back is no big deal. In Summer, it shields
from direct Sun. I wash it with the rest of my cycling clothes. The added
space in the pack is nice for a rain jacket, cell phone, food, etc that I
may not want to carry elsewhere, or have bag space for. The Hydra-sak is my
favorite. It has a fold and slide closure, which is easy to operate when
you are beat up from long hours on a hard ride. It disassembles easier and
cleans up well. Plain water or no calorie Propel/Power Options are what I
put in it, and I rinse it out after each use. You can buy cleaning
solutions, but (shh. Don't tell) some diluted bleach works wonders. Rinse
well after of course.

They look dorky though. No escaping that.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 6:10 PM, Lynne Fitz  wrote:

> I used to use one, but they did a very fine job of putting my
> shoulders into spasms.  I miss the easily available water, but I've
> adapted.
>
> Lynne F
>
> On May 31, 2:54 pm, Kelly  wrote:
> > I just don't like things on my back.  I have a camelback I've used on the
> > mountain bike.   On the other bikes I just put an extra bottle in the
> seat
> > bag.  If it's really hot I can add two or three.  I just stop and switch
> > out bottles.
> >
> > Kelly
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:10:26 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
> >
> > > I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
> > > bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
> > > forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
> > > halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
> > > So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
> > > never used one.
> >
> > > My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> > > on your back on a hot day?
> >
> > > 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?
> >
> > > 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?
> >
> > > Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
> > > to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
> > > fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
> > > can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.
> >
> > > Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?
> >
> > > --
> > > "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."
> >
> > > Flannery O'Connor
> >
> > > -
> > > Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
> > > For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> > >http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> > > -
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 17:18 -0700, Brian Hanson wrote:
> I almost went with an LX5/S100, but got a GF3 with a pancake lens so I
> could get on the replaceable lens format while still keeping the body
> very small.  There was a killer deal on it a few weeks back, so I took
> the plunge.  So far, it seems to be nearly as easy to use while riding
> as my old Elph.  Just need to nail a good harness...

But that leaves you with just the one focal length (or needing to carry
multiple lenses to get multiple focal lengths).  That might not be much
of a big deal for "ordinary photography," but when you're taking photos
on a bike ride you often don't have the time to get off the bike and
walk around to get close enough. 



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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Brian Hanson
I almost went with an LX5/S100, but got a GF3 with a pancake lens so I
could get on the replaceable lens format while still keeping the body very
small.  There was a killer deal on it a few weeks back, so I took the
plunge.  So far, it seems to be nearly as easy to use while riding as my
old Elph.  Just need to nail a good harness...

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 1:02 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:

> On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 12:57 -0700, Philip Williamson wrote:
> > I can also recommend the Canon S95 as a small, high-quality digital
> > camera. I like the idea of using the Revelate feed bag - I'll look
> > into that.
>
> and its current replacement, the S100.  There's a lot to like about
> cameras of that size and capability, especially as cycling tools.
>
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Lynne Fitz
I used to use one, but they did a very fine job of putting my
shoulders into spasms.  I miss the easily available water, but I've
adapted.

Lynne F

On May 31, 2:54 pm, Kelly  wrote:
> I just don't like things on my back.  I have a camelback I've used on the
> mountain bike.   On the other bikes I just put an extra bottle in the seat
> bag.  If it's really hot I can add two or three.  I just stop and switch
> out bottles.
>
> Kelly
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:10:26 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> > I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
> > bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
> > forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
> > halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
> > So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
> > never used one.
>
> > My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> > on your back on a hot day?
>
> > 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?
>
> > 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?
>
> > Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
> > to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
> > fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
> > can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.
>
> > Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?
>
> > --
> > "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."
>
> > Flannery O'Connor
>
> > -
> > Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
> > For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> >http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> > -

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Kelly
Jan,

It was my impression that 105 would actually out last ultra and dura-ace. 
 It was heavier and was the best choice for touring bikes and such.  The 
advantages of the Dura-Ace was weight and shifting ramps .. especially for 
the sprinters.   For everyday riding the heavier gage material was stouter 
and lasted longer.  My impression only no facts to back it up.  
I did just retire a tour bike to loaner status that has been on the road 
for  me since 2002 and still on the same group. (105)  

Just because it's better for racing and cost more doesn't mean it's 
"better" or will last longer.. shimano anyway.  My opinion only.. 

Kelly

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:04:50 AM UTC-5, Peter M wrote:
>
> I agree Jan,  but still have a hard time convincing my wife of this fact, 
> Haha. 
> On May 31, 2012 11:48 AM, "Jan Heine"  wrote:
>
>> On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote:
>> > It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's 
>> of
>> > Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, 
>> Sugino
>> > cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK
>> > headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."
>>
>> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more
>> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000
>> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or
>> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower
>> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable
>> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank
>> with soft chainrings.
>>
>> I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being
>> the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding
>> seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I
>> switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost
>> three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the
>> same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win
>> situation, once you get over the sticker shock.
>>
>> Jan Heine
>> Editor
>> Bicycle Quarterly
>> http://www.bikequarterly.com
>>
>> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
>>
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>>  

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[RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Jan Heine
On May 31, 9:46 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
> With all due respect, Jan, that is a highly dubious assertion that 105
> cranks will cost less per mile than Ultegra cranks.

Sorry I wasn't clear - I was NOT referring to the cranks in
particular, but the 105 components in general. It appears that
especially the lower-grade brake-shift-levers wear out with alarming
frequency. Hub bearings are another issue where extra money spent
usually is well-spent.

I agree with you that more money doesn't always buy you better
quality, but in the bicycle world, the correlation still holds to a
large degree. Better designs, better bearings, better seals, higher-
grade materials all bring more longevity.

Just as an example, after having gone through two sets of Shimano PD-
A520 pedals in four years, I hope that the new "Ultegra-level" PD-A600
pedals will last a lot longer, and be less expensive per mile, not
counting the aggravation of having to replace parts on my bike.

It is true, however, that for many parts, extra money doesn't buy you
better performance or durability. Just to quote a simple example,
inexpensive seatposts may be ugly, but most work just fine. I also
suspect that 105 brakes will stop as well as more expensive ones
(assuming they use similar pads), and last as long. And of course, the
ultimate in bargain basement parts, the old Mafac Racers, in fact are
great brakes, especially if you equip them with modern pads.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread René Sterental
I believe what the OP is looking for is something like this:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/39643-REG/OP_TECH_USA_5301002_Stabilizer_Strap.html

Assuming sweating is no issue, this chest stabilizer would improve on just
using the camera strapped as a sling. For situations where one wouldn't
want to hold the camera on one's body, then some sort of
quick-release/handlebar clamp solution could be considered for quick access
to the camera, or even taking photos/videos while riding. Some combination
of parts/providers may be needed.

René

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Kelly
I just don't like things on my back.  I have a camelback I've used on the 
mountain bike.   On the other bikes I just put an extra bottle in the seat 
bag.  If it's really hot I can add two or three.  I just stop and switch 
out bottles.  

Kelly

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 2:10:26 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water 
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I 
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the 
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water. 
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've 
> never used one. 
>
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term) 
> on your back on a hot day? 
>
> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold? 
>
> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any? 
>
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared 
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax" 
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I 
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back. 
>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket? 
>
> -- 
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you." 
>
> Flannery O'Connor 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread dailyrandonneur
I've been using various Camelbaks for my randonneur and century rides
for more than a decade, year-round.

I like not running out of water and not having to drink from bottles,
especially during rainy and very hot rides.

I add ice if the temperature is over 90 degrees and always use a tube
insulator. The cold water really helps in hot conditions and can last
for two hours or more. In winter, the water does not freeze if I tuck
the tube into my jacket.

My favorites have been the light-duty 70-oz. models. Currently I'm
using the Rogue. If it has a waist strap, it's probably too big.

I only use water and save sports drinks for my bottles. Draining the
bladder and wiping out with a small towel, and removing the
mouthpiece, keeps the mold away.

You'll know soon enough if you don't like the feel on your back. I
never notice it. The nicer Camelbaks have ventilated backs if you want
more airflow.

If in doubt, buy from REI and take advantage of their return policy.

Ed






On May 31, 3:10 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
> never used one.
>
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> on your back on a hot day?
>
> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?
>
> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?
>
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.
>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?
>
> --
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."
>
> Flannery O'Connor
>
> -
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, 
> ACRWhttp://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> -

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne show bike

2012-05-31 Thread Earl Grey
I run 40mm tires (Kenda Kwick Roller EZ Ride) under 52mm VO Zeppelin
fenders on a 56cm Sam. Plenty of room under the fenders.

Gernot

On May 30, 11:46 am, Andy Smitty Schmidt <54ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
> If you want to ruffle the feathers of fashion and get some awesome
> short-ish pants in the deal, try the MUSA Knickers.
>
> Would love to see pics of the diamond/harlequin wrapped bar when you do it.
> I've been thinking to try it but haven't gotten around to it.
>
> FWIW... I had to up-size my fenders (to 50mm... I think) to get adequate
> clearance under my Supremes.
>
> --Andy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 9:27:45 PM UTC-7, charlie wrote:
>
> > Just acquired some lime green cloth bar tape which I hope to weave
> > into a diamond pattern (along with blue tape) on the new green
> > Hillborne's mustache bars. Ordered a set of 700x35 creme colored tires
> > since I tried my Schwalbe Supremes (38mm actual) and they wouldn't fit
> > under fenders with enough clearance to suit me. I'm hoping to ride
> > this in an up and coming 'family style' ride put on by the county park
> > department in my area. I'm also enjoying my new MUSA shorts and blue
> > suspenders (nothing like plumbers crack to spoil a fellow riders view)
> > The fit is nice and I plan to buy another pair along with some long
> > pants now that I know they fit.
> > Not sure if the Creme tires are long lasting (UV / rubber wise) but
> > I've seen a few bicycles fitted with them and they look kind of
> > vintage. Its a groovin bicycle and I'm glad I purchased it. If any of
> > you are on the fence regarding the purchase of a Hillborne it is a
> > fine riding bicycle. Not a tank and not a flyweight just a solid ride
> > that handles predictably. When price is a consideration, I don't think
> > you could purchase a nicer riding Rivendell.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of switching handlebars on my AHH

2012-05-31 Thread Garth
Hi Joe,
  
 What I really love about bar end levers is I can activate the brakes 
anywhere my hands are on the bar very easily, weather I'm back or forward 
on the bars, something I could never do with a standard lever. I can use 
them with just my pinkie if needed.  I have no desire to ever use standard 
mtb levers again !  The standard levers more/less limit you into one way to 
use them .. while these offer more leeway.  I think the only reason more 
people don't use it is they get used to the "standard" way or they prefer 
bar-end shifters. 
---

On Saturday, May 26, 2012 11:47:06 PM UTC-4, joe b. wrote:
>
> On Sat, May 26, 2012 at 7:00 PM, wrote:
>
>>
>> I thought of the Bosco bars for a minute, until I realised they had zero 
>> forward reach, unlike the Albatross. I use bar end brake levers and thumb 
>> shifters so I get TONS of room for my hands to move around.
>
>
> How do the reverse brake levers work for you, especially off pavement? 
> Neat setup. For quite a while, I ran bar end shifters with MTB levers out 
> on the front curve. I really loved all the room to roam but missed being 
> able to brake with my weight back.
>
> Best,
> joe broach
> portland, or
>


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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 08:48 -0700, Jan Heine wrote:
> 
> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more
> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000
> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or
> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower
> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable
> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank
> with soft chainrings.

I'm not convinced Ultegra or Dura Ace derailleurs or brakes last longer
than 105.  For some components, the extra price brings you a nicer
finish and possibly some less weight, but not necessarily greater
durability.



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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Eric Norris
My preference in biking cameras stress ease of use (for instance, can you turn 
the camera on and use the controls while wearing full-finger gloves) and low 
cost (in case I drop it and it breaks). At the moment, my biking camera of 
choice is a Canon SD780. It's reasonably cheap (I found a refurbished camera 
online for about $100) and the controls are easy to use even with cold-numbed 
fingers. It also takes great HD video, accessible via a simple switch on the 
back.

I've owned a Canon S90, and while it took great photos I was always hesitant to 
carry it on the bike for fear of having it hit the pavement.

P.S. My Canon SD780 was soaked with rainwater on the first night at last year's 
PBP, to the point where the rear display basically became useless. However, it 
kept taking photos, and once I finished the ride and had time to dry it out, 
the display came back. It's a trouper!

--Eric N

On May 31, 2012, at 1:53 PM, Kevin Mulcahy  wrote:

> 
> I used the Canon 300hs on my last tour. I think it's a great cycling camera 
> for a couple reasons. It's small enough to fit in a shirt pocket or the 
> little pocket on your handlebar bag. It had a tough anodized aluminum finish 
> that makes it easy to grab one-handed while riding. It has a wonderful 
> autofocus and take great photos while riding and also only take 2 second to 
> turn on and take your first photo. 
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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Kevin Mulcahy

I used the Canon 300hs on my last tour. I think it's a great cycling camera 
for a couple reasons. It's small enough to fit in a shirt pocket or the 
little pocket on your handlebar bag. It had a tough anodized aluminum 
finish that makes it easy to grab one-handed while riding. It has a 
wonderful autofocus and take great photos while riding and also only take 2 
second to turn on and take your first photo. 

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[RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Brewster Fong

On Sunday, May 27, 2012 12:36:06 AM UTC-7, stonehog wrote: 
>
> I've been commuting for the past few weeks with one of the new Rene Herse 
> cranks on my AHH.  http://www.compasscycle.com/cranks_bb.html  I haven't 
> seen any reviews on this yet, so I figured I would share a few 
> thoughts/opinions with the group.  I'm not really a crankoholic, and have 
> mainly ridden wider Q mountain cranks.  I mainly wanted to upgrade the bike 
> a bit, and thought a well built crankset would be a nice add.  Something 
> that would last as long as the frame, perhaps.   
>
> I've never had any experience with a narrow tread road bike, and was a bit 
> worried that having a narrow Q would be a problem.  So far that has not 
> worked out to be the case.  I find it comfortable, and natural.  The length 
> of these are 171mm, which is close to what I'm finding to be ideal for me.  
> I tend to lately favor the 170mm cranks I have on another bike over the 
> 175mm I've been using for the past 20 years.  
>
> The finish and feel of these cranks is indeed very nice, and every bit as 
> good as it has been billed.  The chainrings are nice and thick, but 
> elegant.  To me, these cranks feel more solid than the others I've used 
> lately including Sugino XD, Suntour XC Pro, and modern Shimano Deore and XT 
> cranks, as well as a Race Face outboard bearing set I have on my mtb.   
> They are very nice to look at, as well, with a highly polished finish, and 
> simple, clean and classy lines that go really well with the Rivendell 
> frame.  
>
> It was recommended by Jan that I use a 110mm bottom bracket, so I ordered 
> one, but decided to try the cranks with a 107mm that I had on already.  
> They went on easily, and the arms have at least 3-5mm clearance with the 
> chainstays.  The chainline is adequate, as well.  I got 44/28 rings to go 
> with an 11-32 cassette.  This gives me plenty of range for the hilly riding 
> I do in the area.  Bottom line - I highly recommend these.  Love em!
>
> Pics:
>
> http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzzumnw
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread RJM
I had the first version, the Panasonic LX-1 I believe.  I thought it was an 
excellent camera for biking and loved the whole layout.  Too bad I left it 
on my bumper when leaving a trailhead one time and just completely 
destroyed it.  I would imagine the LX-5 would be a great substitute.
 

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 5:57:30 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

> On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 05:30 -0500, Eric Platt wrote: 
> > Except for certain film cameras, wouldn't try it myself.  I just sweat 
> > way too much on rides.  Would probably destroy a modern digital camera 
> > in a ride or two.   It has sort of forced me to focus on smaller point 
> > and shoot digital cameras, which are easier to put in handlebar bags. 
> > Eventually should spring for a Leica X1 or Fuji X100 or similar.  Just 
> > can't warm up to the idea of spending a large sum of money on 
> > something that is more a toy to me than a tool.  And will probably be 
> > obsolete or broken in a year or three. 
>
> Let me suggest the Panasonic LX-5.  Plenty small enough to carry in a 
> handlebar bag, smaller and cheaper than the Leica or Fuji, zoom lens 
> that gives you equivalent focal lengths 24-90mm, plenty of manual 
> control and a lot more than a "toy".  Excellent image quality for a 
> small sensor camera, too.  Take a look at the photos I've been taking 
> with it, most on bike rides: 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/ 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
I don't have mold problems but only use mine once a month or less and dry 
it out thoroughly after that use (put a regular bike bottle in it to hold 
it open, then hang it). I find that I drink significantly more water when 
I'm wearing one. 

I also like the Camelbak Mule. Great capacity, but not in the way if you 
don't need it.

An alternative is a Platypus bag  you 
can fill and carry in a regular bike bag/pannier/trunksack/etc.. They have 
one and two liter models. Folds up to nothing when not in use.

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:10:26 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water 
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I 
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the 
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water. 
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've 
> never used one. 
>
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term) 
> on your back on a hot day? 
>
> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold? 
>
> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any? 
>
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared 
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax" 
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I 
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back. 
>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket? 
>
> -- 
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you." 
>
> Flannery O'Connor 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Tim McNamara
On May 31, 2012, at 2:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
> never used one.
> 
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> on your back on a hot day?

Yes.  IMHO, YMMV.

> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

Yes.  Cleaning kits are available which include a disinfectant and a plastic 
doohickey that goes into the bladder to expand it to air dry.

> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?
> 
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.
> 
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?

IMHO yes.  Or, as I prefer, two water bottles on the bike.  Better to have the 
bike carry a load.

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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Dave

I've have three Camels and had a different brand prior to that.

"Camelbacks" (the term has become ubiquitous for all hydration packs) 
all have several characteristics that are somewhat independent of one 
another, yet all demand consideration.


How much water do you go through when you ride (and you must consider 
how you react to heat), and is that really enough?  I drink WAY more 
water using a pack than I do with bottles.  That's probably a good thing.


and...

Is dehydration something you tolerate better that the compromise of 
putting up with more heat, weight and sweat on your back?  Frankly, I 
use the packs for hiking or mtn biking, but I use bottles on the road 
bike.  You don't feel as hot or sweaty in a more upright position, 
probably due to either taking it off more frequently (hiking) or less 
pressure and contact (mtn biking).


On a road ride on really hot days (100+) I will often forgo comfort for 
safety by bucking-up and taking a 100 oz pack with ice cubes and water 
in it.  On a solid ride you will drain it in no time and be very happy 
you don't start hallucinating from the heat.  But maybe that's just me.  
On cooler, shorter rides bottles are usually fine.


Just know what your body needs and will tolerate, then don't deny it.


On 5/31/2012 12:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water.
bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
never used one.

My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
on your back on a hot day?

2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?

Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.

Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?



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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 12:57 -0700, Philip Williamson wrote:
> I can also recommend the Canon S95 as a small, high-quality digital
> camera. I like the idea of using the Revelate feed bag - I'll look
> into that.

and its current replacement, the S100.  There's a lot to like about
cameras of that size and capability, especially as cycling tools.



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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Joe Broach
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
> bottle

That's a lot of water, but everyone's needs are different. When I
lived in dry, hot (though likely not ABQ hot) Missoula, I'd drink half
a bottle, do a 17-mile evening loop, and then have the other half on
the porch when I got back. I carried the half bottle, but only in case
a mechanical or something delayed me. I never much felt like drinking
on a short, hard ride like that. I should mention that was a flat
course. Didn't mean that as admonishing you for drinking, just
thinking back to similar rides.

> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> on your back on a hot day?

If you start with ice in the bladder, it feels marvelous for the first
10 miles or so. I eventually added some closed cell foam for longer
rides so I wasn't heating up my water supply. I used a really light
combo: REI Flash 18 pack + 2L (I think, or is it 2.5L?) MSR
Cloudliner. It carried well enough that I forgot it after a while. The
nice thing is it gets lighter as you drink.

> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

Mine never did in two years of continuous use. I just rinsed, drained,
and hung it up with the cap off. Always tasted better than bike bottle
water. Again, that was in a dry climate. I haven't used it much since
moving to Oregon.

> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?

I liked the combo I had, although to be honest I just grabbed both off
the "scratch and dent" table at REI. The combo is only a pound and the
pack is useful for unexpected roadside produce and such. Camelbacks
I've handled seemed way overbuilt for road biking to me.

> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.

I ended up loving the little Flash pack with and without the bladder.
I'd pay full price to replace with the same when mine finally gives
out.

> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?

Probably, but the bladder is different and kind of fun. It's also come
in handy on a couple of bike camping trips when I've wanted to load up
on water before a dry stretch to camp. I wouldn't have tried it except
for the good deal (think it was $30 total), but now I think they have
their place. Still not sure I'd want one for an evening fun road ride,
though.

Best,
joe broach
portland, or

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[RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Philip Williamson
I can also recommend the Canon S95 as a small, high-quality digital camera. 
I like the idea of using the Revelate feed bag - I'll look into that.

 Philip

Philip Williamson
www.biketinker.com 

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 8:32:22 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:
>
> A Revelate mountain feed bag carries my camera, usually. I have a Canon 
> G10.
>
> On Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:18:35 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>>
>> I'm curious of those who bring a small SLR or mirrorless camera on trips, 
>> have you found a good way to carry it so you have it ready quickly?  I've 
>> always used a small point & shoot kept in a pocket or the small pocket in 
>> my acorn boxy rando bag.  I'm looking for a way to have a larger camera 
>> ready to photograph the scenes I'm biking by on longer rides.  I seem to 
>> recall Grant talking about some kind of harness a few years back?
>>
>> Brian
>> Seattle, WA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 56cm Homer Hilsen for Sale-Orange

2012-05-31 Thread rcnute
After having passed on this before I can't help but think this is a
sign from above that this bike is for me--off to think...

Ryan

On May 31, 10:04 am, Peter M  wrote:
> Ok, here we go again. I recently worked out a deal to pick up an
> Atlantis so per my wonderful wife the Homer has to go. I recently
> picked it up from Chris Jonhson and it is in great condtion. Color is
> techincally school bus yellow but it is more like creamsicle orange in
> real life. Looking to sell Frame, Fork and Headset for what I paid,
> $1100 shipped. No dents, dings or chainsuck, has VO leather chainstay
> protector I just installed but can be removed easily enough with a
> hair dryer. Bike has one small scuff in seat tube decal but it doesnt
> show up in pictures and is very small but thought I should mention it,
> the rest of the paint is outstanding.   I will include the dia-compe
> center pull brakes but I am keeping the kool stop pads for myself
> since they are pretty much brand new. I am also looking to sell the
> wheelset here. 650b Wheels, front is a Rich built synergy with deore
> hub, rear is Alfine 8 Speed internal with synergy wheel, handbuilt for
> me at Harris Cyclery.  I paid over $800 with the hetres for this setup
> so was looking to get around $450.  Wheels have less than 300 miles on
> them, hub shifts super smooth, no grinding or anything like that, will
> include brand new shifter/small parts setup and 57mm VO fenders to
> buyer.  Here are some recent pics of the bike, email me with any
> questions/concerns. Thanks everyone.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/67889635@N06/

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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Scott Henry
Patrick,
I use a Camelback MULE on long rides and on day hikes.   Just like
everything else in life, it is going to have pluses and minuses.

The bladder and hose can mold, either store it full or put something inside
to hold it open so air flows inside.  A cleaning brush helps for the tube,
it looks like a flexible bore brush for a rifle.  Its going to take some
getting used to, its alot of weight on your back and it will definitely add
to whatever sweating that you do.  I like them, but like I said, only on
longer rides.  Having 100 ounces of water is nice, I find that I end up
drinking more.   Also, because I don't enjoy cleaning it out, no sports
drinks or anything other than water ever goes in mine.

Scott




On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 3:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
> bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
> forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
> halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
> So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
> never used one.
>
> My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> on your back on a hot day?
>
> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?
>
> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?
>
> Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
> to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
> fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
> can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.
>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?
>
> --
> "Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."
>
> Flannery O'Connor
>
> -
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> -
>
> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Thinking of switching handlebars on my AHH

2012-05-31 Thread Rex Kerr
On Sat, May 26, 2012 at 11:47 PM, charlie  wrote:

> Oh ! forgot, its a Albatross bar mounted upside down..
>

Ah... that was my guess, but I was looking and looking wonder what exactly
you were trying to show. :-)

I actually noticed something... after posting those two pictures I got to
looking at them and saw that the bar angle was different on the AHH than it
had been on the Schwinn.  I rotated the bar (tips down) on a ride the other
day and have been much happier and might even rotate a bit more.  I do
find, though, that I'm sliding forward on the saddle, so reach is still an
issue and I may consider something like you've done.

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Re: [RBW] Re: S240 Ride Report- Diablo/TOC 2012

2012-05-31 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Beautiful photos; thanks for posting them.

California must be the most beautiful state in the contiguous 48. NM
is beautiful for its light, sapphire skies and distant vistas, but I
have to admit that CA, No or So, beats it. The combination of western
vistas (compared to the tiny valleys and hills of New England or the
short views of wooded Georgia) and greenery is unbeatable.

And I remember the cool, humid summer air around San Francisco -- I
guess that you get the same around Walnut Creek?

The only thing that NM has in advantage is the unsurpassed quality of
the light thanks to the altitude (mean elevation 5,700 feet) and low
humidity (20% today: high; yesterday: 4%). West LA looks "dim" when I
visit. Wish I could visit W Creek.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 10:50 AM, Manuel Acosta
 wrote:
> Ha! Thanks for the photos Bill. They look great!
>
> On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 4:37:41 PM UTC-7, William wrote:
>>
>> My photos are up.  They aren't in a set yet.  Here's a couple of turkeys:
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/7274165030/in/photostream
>>
>> and here's a couple of turkeys
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/7274162804/in/photostream/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, May 19, 2012 8:06:36 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>>>
>>> One picture to colierate Tommy's first post on the form.
>>> Tommy himself riding up Diablo on his new touring bike!
>>> http://flic.kr/p/c1uJEd
>>>
>>>
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-- 
"Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."

Flannery O'Connor

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Horace
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 12:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:

> (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
> on your back on a hot day?

Yes. Okay in cooler weather.

> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

Yes. Prevention is to take it apart to clean, and to store it in the freezer.

> 3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?

If you just want capacity, I'd recommend bottles of water in a pannier
or trunk rack as a better alternative.

Horace.

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Re: [RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread Kenneth Stagg
On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 2:10 PM, PATRICK MOORE  wrote:
>
> My main concerns are,

> (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term) on your back on a hot day?

YMMV but I hated it.

> 2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

I didn't have a mold problem but the water coming out of it always
tasted foul.  Note that this was a Camelback and I've heard some of
the other bladders don't impart so much nasty taste.

>
> Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?

Handlebar mount cages :)  I actually end up throwing extras in the
side pockets of my saddlebag since I love my handlebar bag too much to
ditch it even for the convenience of handlebar mount waterbottles.

-Ken

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[RBW] Advice on Camelbacks

2012-05-31 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I made the mistake of setting out just now with just one 28 oz water
bottle (my Joe has only one set of braze ons -- a big regret -- and I
forgot the nifty Minoura clamp-on cage mount thingie) and by the
halfway point (only 22 m rt) I was wishing I had twice as much water.
So, a few questions about Camelbacks or whatever they are called. I've
never used one.

My main concerns are, (1) do they feel icky (that's a technical term)
on your back on a hot day?

2). Do they mold up? How do you clean them to prevent mold?

3) What brand and model do y'all recommend, if any?

Gnashbar has several on sale (tho' they're damn'd expensive compared
to water bottles). Is the cheapest, at $40, the "Camelback Fairfax"
fer God's sake, 50 oz, decent? Or the (gad) "Blowfish" 70 oz at $60? I
can't see carrying more than half a gallon on my back.

Or am I just better off putting a second bottle in my rear pocket?

-- 
"Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."

Flannery O'Connor

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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[RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread RJM
I do agree that spending the cash up front is better off in the long run, 
especially if you are putting quite a few miles on the bike.  My Roadeo 
that I am ordering will be using the new RH crankset, I do hope they live 
up to their hype. I suspect they will.

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[RBW] 56cm Homer Hilsen for Sale-Orange

2012-05-31 Thread Peter M
Ok, here we go again. I recently worked out a deal to pick up an
Atlantis so per my wonderful wife the Homer has to go. I recently
picked it up from Chris Jonhson and it is in great condtion. Color is
techincally school bus yellow but it is more like creamsicle orange in
real life. Looking to sell Frame, Fork and Headset for what I paid,
$1100 shipped. No dents, dings or chainsuck, has VO leather chainstay
protector I just installed but can be removed easily enough with a
hair dryer. Bike has one small scuff in seat tube decal but it doesnt
show up in pictures and is very small but thought I should mention it,
the rest of the paint is outstanding.   I will include the dia-compe
center pull brakes but I am keeping the kool stop pads for myself
since they are pretty much brand new. I am also looking to sell the
wheelset here. 650b Wheels, front is a Rich built synergy with deore
hub, rear is Alfine 8 Speed internal with synergy wheel, handbuilt for
me at Harris Cyclery.  I paid over $800 with the hetres for this setup
so was looking to get around $450.  Wheels have less than 300 miles on
them, hub shifts super smooth, no grinding or anything like that, will
include brand new shifter/small parts setup and 57mm VO fenders to
buyer.  Here are some recent pics of the bike, email me with any
questions/concerns. Thanks everyone.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/67889635@N06/


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[RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
I use TA chainrings for this exact reason. They last a mighty long time!

I'm always a bit hesitant about proprietary parts. Nothing wrong with them 
at all, but I would invest in an extra set of rings. If they're only 
available from one source in the whole world, even with good intentions, 
that source could dry up at some point. And I'd have something to pass on 
to my heirs! :-)

On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 8:11:38 AM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> On May 28, 8:43 am, cyclotourist  wrote: 
>
> > For me, the proprietary chainrings would be a bigger concern over time. 
> > Sort of thing to stock up on IMHO. The old adage of if you find 
> something 
> > you really like, buy a life-time supply as they'll quit making it at 
> some 
> > point. 
>
> The new René Herse chainrings are made from 7075 aluminum. They should 
> last much, much longer than most other rings. I used to get about 
> 25-30,000 miles of racing out of Campagnolo chainrings, and these are 
> designed to last as long. We optimized the tooth profile of the small 
> rings for long wear. (The big rings are optimized for easier 
> upshifts.) So a lifetime supply of chainrings may well be one set of 
> rings for many riders. 
>
> Furthermore, we don't have plans to change designs for the sake of 
> changing, so we'll offer the rings as long as we remain in business, 
> which hopefully will be a long time. In fact, our new rings even fit 
> on classic René Herse cranks made since the 1960s. I suspect it will 
> be much harder to find the special chainrings for Campagnolo compact 
> or Shimano's high-end cranks in a decade or two. And quality 110 mm 
> rings always have been thin on the ground. (Sugino's rings are not 
> quite as soft as butter, but I rarely got more than 5000 miles out of 
> them.) 
>
> Jan Heine 
> Compass Bicycles Ltd. 
> http://www.compasscycle.com 
>
> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] FS: Brooks Swift Black, Thomson Elite 27.2 seatpost

2012-05-31 Thread Blindrobert
Black Brooks Swift saddle with Chrome rails and copper hammered
rivets, very faint signs of use, well-cared for, never wet, has been
Proofide treated.  Years of life left in it: $120 delivered in the
USA.

Thomson Elite silver seatpost 27.2 x 250mm, a few light marks BELOW
the minimun insertion line, so it will look just about new on your
bike.  $60 delivered in the USA.

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[RBW] Re: S240 Ride Report- Diablo/TOC 2012

2012-05-31 Thread Manuel Acosta
Ha! Thanks for the photos Bill. They look great!

On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 4:37:41 PM UTC-7, William wrote:
>
> My photos are up.  They aren't in a set yet.  Here's a couple of turkeys:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/7274165030/in/photostream 
>
> and here's a couple of turkeys
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/7274162804/in/photostream/ 
>
>
>
> On Saturday, May 19, 2012 8:06:36 PM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>>
>> One picture to colierate Tommy's first post on the form. 
>> Tommy himself riding up Diablo on his new touring bike!
>> http://flic.kr/p/c1uJEd
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread newenglandbike
For those who are using Sugino cranks: I've been using the Surly steel 
110bcd chainrings on my Sugino XD and AT cranksets for a while now, because 
of the softness issue with the Sugino rings-  they just wear out way too 
fast.  Definitely no issues with the steel rings.   they are great. 

I like the gearing flexibility that new RH cranks offer, and agree with 
previous posters, that the price is still a small part of the cost of a 
good bike.


-Matt

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[RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
With all due respect, Jan, that is a highly dubious assertion that 105 
cranks will cost less per mile than Ultegra cranks. The MSRP difference in 
the crank is $100 ($360 for Ultegra and $260 for 105), If you assume the 
chainrings to be the primary wear item, you could buy the 105 crank and 
spend the extra $100 on some new (supposedly more durable) Ultegra rings to 
use when the 105 rings wear out. Now we're at the same price, and we've got 
two sets of chainrings for the less costly crank. That to me sounds like 
the 105 crank will give more miles for the same dollars. Of course, there's 
the probability that the cranks themselves could break, but that 
probability is slim with either model. How to compare two very small 
probabilities and translate it usefully to dollars/mile?

That an old Peugeot was costly to maintain is not too surprising. Those 
things are money pits. Would an equivalently priced, say, Miyata with Sun 
Tour parts, of the same vintage, have been less costly to maintain? I think 
yes, all else being equal, and barring crashes, and other mishaps. I can 
point at numerous Schwinn Varsities and similar machines that have been 
abused in many ways by many people for 40 years, and they're still on the 
road. Arguably, the Varsity is cheap for other reasons, but durability 
isn't one of them.

Anyway, I suspect the dollars to durability correlation to be a weak 
correlation at best, and impossible to discern in the real world. This is 
the kind of overly simplistic thing you read in an article in Bicycling 
that attempts to give first-timers some basic knowledge to buy a first road 
bike. But even Bicycling doesn't have the audacity to make a definitive 
claim in terms of dollars per mile. 

I agree that a crummy bike will be less enjoyable and will need repairs, 
but 105 parts are far from crummy.



On Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:48:49 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote: 
> > It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's 
> of 
> > Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, 
> Sugino 
> > cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK 
> > headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling." 
>
> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more 
> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000 
> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or 
> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower 
> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable 
> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank 
> with soft chainrings. 
>
> I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being 
> the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding 
> seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I 
> switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost 
> three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the 
> same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win 
> situation, once you get over the sticker shock. 
>
> Jan Heine 
> Editor 
> Bicycle Quarterly 
> http://www.bikequarterly.com 
>
> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/ 
>

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:48:49 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote: 
> > It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's 
> of 
> > Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, 
> Sugino 
> > cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK 
> > headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling." 
>
> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more 
> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000 
> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or 
> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower 
> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable 
> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank 
> with soft chainrings. 
>
> I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being 
> the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding 
> seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I 
> switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost 
> three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the 
> same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win 
> situation, once you get over the sticker shock. 
>
> Jan Heine 
> Editor 
> Bicycle Quarterly 
> http://www.bikequarterly.com 
>
> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/ 
>

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:48:49 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote: 
> > It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's 
> of 
> > 

Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread PATRICK MOORE
I have a hard time believing that 105 will wear significantly faster
at a cost-affecting rate at ~2K miles/year. Certainly the comparison
with the sorts of components on a cheap, '70s or '80s 10 speed is
inapt. (At least, the 105 that I am familiar with which is the stuff
from 15 or more years ago; has it gotten hugely worse?) Doubtless with
the kind of miles that Jan and some others put on -- as a fellow
Albuquerquian rider once said to me, "Nine thousand miles last year --
it was a bad year" -- but for most of us mortals doing 3K miles a
year, it's really a non-issue -- especially if you swap out bikes a
lot, as many on this list seem to do.

I put thousands of miles on Alvits and Simplex Prestige, not to
mention P* O* S* components on Indian made roadsters and sure, they
needed more upkeep than the Dura Ace I know, but not *that* much more!

FWIW, the old-stock Cyclotourist chainrings I use on my Rivs, which I
think were pre-modern-hardened alloy, show almost no wear after
thousands of miles; granted, little rain; but much dust.

That said, I would have no problem justifying a R Herse crankset for a
good bike, just for the looks, bling and low Q, not to mention that
it's one of the few reasonably priced cranksets that will give you a
wide range double with a sub-33 inner. Compared to Dura Ace, high-end
SRAM and Campy, they're cheap and they certainly look better.

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 9:48 AM, Jan Heine  wrote:
>
> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more
> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000
> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or
> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower
> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable
> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank
> with soft chainrings.
>
> I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being
> the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding
> seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I
> switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost
> three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the
> same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win
> situation, once you get over the sticker shock.
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
> http://www.bikequarterly.com
>
> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
>
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>



-- 
"Push back against the age as hard as it pushes against you."

Flannery O'Connor

-
Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
-

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[RBW] Re: Another waste of time DIY project. A <$10 handlebar bag

2012-05-31 Thread William
LMAO.  Bobby, be careful encouraging Bubba.  He's bad enough without the 
encouragement.  

For the somebody who asked.  The box weighs 15.9 ounces complete as you see 
it according to the office postal scale.  That's with map case and velcro 
and the Berthoud decaleur bits, but otherwise empty.  

On Thursday, May 31, 2012 7:14:08 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> I think the Bubba Box is ready for expanded use and accessorizing... 
> may I offer a few ideas: 
>
> - Insulated insert (the Bubba Brew Box) for cold beverages 
> - Padded pet insert (the Bubba Beast Box) for your favorite critter 
> - Skins (the "My Bubba Box" line of colored and patterned overlays) 
>
> Quit your job, Bill... take the biking world by storm Carpe Diem, 
> amigo... 
>
> Peace, 
> B (Bobby "Bubba-Box Believer" Birmingham) 
>
>
> On May 30, 7:08 pm, William  wrote: 
> > Ha!  Confirmed.  I did an SFR 200k permanent on Monday, the Jittery 
> Jaunt. 
> >  White's hill was on the menu to be sure. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Wednesday, May 30, 2012 3:52:06 PM UTC-7, EastBayGuy wrote: 
> > 
> > > I saw that Bag on Sir Frances Drake Blvd coming down Whites Hill on 
> Monday 
> > > if I was not mistaken... 
> > 
> > > Dustin G 
> > 
> > > Walnut Creek Ca

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Peter Morgano
I agree Jan,  but still have a hard time convincing my wife of this fact,
Haha.
On May 31, 2012 11:48 AM, "Jan Heine"  wrote:

> On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote:
> > It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's of
> > Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, Sugino
> > cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK
> > headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."
>
> I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more
> expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000
> miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or
> improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower
> tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable
> and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank
> with soft chainrings.
>
> I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being
> the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding
> seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I
> switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost
> three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the
> same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win
> situation, once you get over the sticker shock.
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor
> Bicycle Quarterly
> http://www.bikequarterly.com
>
> Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Jan Heine
On May 31, 6:03 am, Steven Frederick  wrote:
> It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's of
> Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, Sugino
> cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK
> headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."

I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more
expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000
miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or
improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower
tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable
and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank
with soft chainrings.

I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being
the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding
seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I
switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost
three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the
same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win
situation, once you get over the sticker shock.

Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
http://www.bikequarterly.com

Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

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[RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
A Revelate mountain feed bag carries my camera, usually. I have a Canon G10.

On Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:18:35 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
>
> I'm curious of those who bring a small SLR or mirrorless camera on trips, 
> have you found a good way to carry it so you have it ready quickly?  I've 
> always used a small point & shoot kept in a pocket or the small pocket in 
> my acorn boxy rando bag.  I'm looking for a way to have a larger camera 
> ready to photograph the scenes I'm biking by on longer rides.  I seem to 
> recall Grant talking about some kind of harness a few years back?
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA
>

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[RBW] Re: Another waste of time DIY project. A <$10 handlebar bag

2012-05-31 Thread Montclair BobbyB
I think the Bubba Box is ready for expanded use and accessorizing...
may I offer a few ideas:

- Insulated insert (the Bubba Brew Box) for cold beverages
- Padded pet insert (the Bubba Beast Box) for your favorite critter
- Skins (the "My Bubba Box" line of colored and patterned overlays)

Quit your job, Bill... take the biking world by storm Carpe Diem,
amigo...

Peace,
B (Bobby "Bubba-Box Believer" Birmingham)


On May 30, 7:08 pm, William  wrote:
> Ha!  Confirmed.  I did an SFR 200k permanent on Monday, the Jittery Jaunt.
>  White's hill was on the menu to be sure.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 30, 2012 3:52:06 PM UTC-7, EastBayGuy wrote:
>
> > I saw that Bag on Sir Frances Drake Blvd coming down Whites Hill on Monday
> > if I was not mistaken...
>
> > Dustin G
>
> > Walnut Creek Ca

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto Mark's Front Rack, Carradice Nelson

2012-05-31 Thread Blindrobert
EVERYTHING IS SOLD NOW.

On May 27, 10:27 am, Blindrobert  wrote:
> Carradice Nelson saddlebag and Bagman Expedition QR support are still
> available!
>
> On May 26, 10:26 am, Blindrobert  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Marks Front 
> > Rack:http://www.flickr.com/photos/blindrobert/7273623618/in/photostream/
> > This has been sitting around for a while.  It should get some use.
> > Includes everything shown in the picture - you will have to supply
> > screws for your braze-ons or P-clamps if you need them.
>
> > $80 delivered.
>
> > Carradice Nelson Saddle Bag and Bagman (QR) Expedition support 
> > loop:http://www.flickr.com/photos/blindrobert/7273648344/in/photostreamhtt...
>
> > Y'all probably know what this is: bag was only used a few times and
> > looks like a new bag with a few days of use.  Never rained on.
> > Leather straps show only light signs of use.  No holes, no tears, no
> > problems.  The rack looks even better.
>
> > Please note that this isn't the "Longflap" version of the Nelson bag -
> > it has the regular length flap, which is plenty long enough to cover
> > the opening, even when fully loaded.
>
> > $120 for the set, delivered.

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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Frederick
It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's of
Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, Sugino
cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK
headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."I suppose with a Riv
the frame IS the bling.  Eh, whatever works!

Steve

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 8:26 PM, Eric Platt  wrote:

> Maybe a race to the bottom bracket.
>
> Can understand why folks would pay the premium for a low Q nicely made
> crankset.  Not all of us need low Q, though.  Have no problems with Sugino
> XD2 on a 110 bottom bracket on my Sam Hillborne.  But that would have a
> huge Q factor for many.  For my use, it's more comfortable.
>
> (Was going to compare it to 650B, but am not going there again.)
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 6:01 PM, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
>
>> Is this a race to the bottom?
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread Steven Frederick
Yeah, they're quieter than Chris Kings--more along the lines of Campy, and
they have a very precision-instrument, high-quality ratchet sound.  Quite
nice.  I resisted Boutique hubs for a long time, in favor of good ol'
Shimano.  But I'd have a hard time not spec'ing WI for my next wheel
build.  Quite impressed with them.

Steve

On Sun, May 27, 2012 at 7:36 PM, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

> My White Hubs sound noisy in the shop, but on the road, above 15mph the
> sound is hardly noticeable, and in any case is a white noise kind of hum,
> not a click or rattle.
>
> Michael
>
> On Sunday, May 27, 2012 6:34:25 PM UTC-4, GeorgeS wrote:
>>
>> I'm curious about the White Industries hub.  Is that the one that is
>> said to be so noisy?  What is your experience?
>>
>> GeorgeS
>> New Orleans
>>
>> On May 27, 3:36 am, Brian Hanson  wrote:
>> > I've been commuting for the past few weeks with one of the new Rene
>> Herse
>> > cranks on my AHH.  
>> > http://www.compasscycle.com/**cranks_bb.html
>> >  I
>> haven't
>> > seen any reviews on this yet, so I figured I would share a few
>> > thoughts/opinions with the group.  I'm not really a crankoholic, and
>> have
>> > mainly ridden wider Q mountain cranks.  I mainly wanted to upgrade the
>> bike
>> > a bit, and thought a well built crankset would be a nice add.
>>  Something
>> > that would last as long as the frame, perhaps.
>> >
>> > I've never had any experience with a narrow tread road bike, and was a
>> bit
>> > worried that having a narrow Q would be a problem.  So far that has not
>> > worked out to be the case.  I find it comfortable, and natural.  The
>> length
>> > of these are 171mm, which is close to what I'm finding to be ideal for
>> me.
>> > I tend to lately favor the 170mm cranks I have on another bike over the
>> > 175mm I've been using for the past 20 years.
>> >
>> > The finish and feel of these cranks is indeed very nice, and every bit
>> as
>> > good as it has been billed.  The chainrings are nice and thick, but
>> > elegant.  To me, these cranks feel more solid than the others I've used
>> > lately including Sugino XD, Suntour XC Pro, and modern Shimano Deore
>> and XT
>> > cranks, as well as a Race Face outboard bearing set I have on my mtb.
>> > They are very nice to look at, as well, with a highly polished finish,
>> and
>> > simple, clean and classy lines that go really well with the Rivendell
>> > frame.
>> >
>> > It was recommended by Jan that I use a 110mm bottom bracket, so I
>> ordered
>> > one, but decided to try the cranks with a 107mm that I had on already.
>> > They went on easily, and the arms have at least 3-5mm clearance with
>> the
>> > chainstays.  The chainline is adequate, as well.  I got 44/28 rings to
>> go
>> > with an 11-32 cassette.  This gives me plenty of range for the hilly
>> riding
>> > I do in the area.  Bottom line - I highly recommend these.  Love em!
>> >
>> > Pics:
>> >
>> > http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzzumnw
>> >
>> > Brian
>> > Seattle, WA
>
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[RBW] Re: FS: XTR Rapid Rise RD & Chopped Brooks B17

2012-05-31 Thread Kris
Saddle is sold.  XTR rear derailleur is still available.
 

On Monday, May 28, 2012 5:45:07 PM UTC-4, Kris wrote:

> 1. Shimano XTR Rapid Rise RD-M960 - some scratches, lots of life left in 
> the pulleys, 100% functional - $45 shipped in US 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/7770282@N04/7289996308/
>
> 2. Brooks B17 'Chopped' - <500 miles w/ <100 after it was chopped, some 
> minor scuffs, and dirt from one trail ride. - $50 shipped in US.
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/7770282@N04/729268/
>
> Paypal only please.  Thanks!
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Steve Palincsar
On Thu, 2012-05-31 at 05:30 -0500, Eric Platt wrote:
> Except for certain film cameras, wouldn't try it myself.  I just sweat
> way too much on rides.  Would probably destroy a modern digital camera
> in a ride or two.   It has sort of forced me to focus on smaller point
> and shoot digital cameras, which are easier to put in handlebar bags.
> Eventually should spring for a Leica X1 or Fuji X100 or similar.  Just
> can't warm up to the idea of spending a large sum of money on
> something that is more a toy to me than a tool.  And will probably be
> obsolete or broken in a year or three.

Let me suggest the Panasonic LX-5.  Plenty small enough to carry in a
handlebar bag, smaller and cheaper than the Leica or Fuji, zoom lens
that gives you equivalent focal lengths 24-90mm, plenty of manual
control and a lot more than a "toy".  Excellent image quality for a
small sensor camera, too.  Take a look at the photos I've been taking
with it, most on bike rides:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/



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Re: [RBW] Re: cameras and biking

2012-05-31 Thread Eric Platt
Except for certain film cameras, wouldn't try it myself.  I just sweat way
too much on rides.  Would probably destroy a modern digital camera in a
ride or two.

It has sort of forced me to focus on smaller point and shoot digital
cameras, which are easier to put in handlebar bags.  Eventually
should spring for a Leica X1 or Fuji X100 or similar.  Just can't warm up
to the idea of spending a large sum of money on something that is more a
toy to me than a tool.  And will probably be obsolete or broken in a year
or three.

This does remind me, need to get a film camera ready for this weekend's
ride.

Eric Platt
St. Paul, MN

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 11:55 PM, Andy Smitty Schmidt <54ca...@gmail.com>wrote:

> try bandolier style but put it "further back". Like too far back. I find
> with the right riding position there's a sweet spot where the camera is
> more sitting on my upper back rather than hanging from the strap. It'll
> comfortably ride there for a long time without moving or getting in the
> way. Probably doesn't work as well off road.
>
> I've contemplated making some sort of handlebar/stem holster for my camera
> but it hasn't happened yet. If you come up with a solution, would love to
> see some pics.
>
> --Andy
>
>
>
>

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