[RBW] Re: PSA: 56cm Rambouillet on Los Angeles Craigslist

[Hugh Smitham]

And I'd need a 58cm saved by a couple of centimetres. 

~Hugh
   Los Angeles, CA

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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[Hugh Smitham]

So they copied the pic and used it to create a bogus listing. Someone is 
messing with folks. Like a troll.

~Hugh

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 56cm Rambouillet on Los Angeles Craigslist

[Lungimsam]

I'd need a 54 size in a Rambouillet.

Which one of yous guys bought theirs from Alex and  is it still authentic?

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[RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[Esteban]

Bill - this is terrific, as usual with your bikes. Hope to see it and you 
someday soon.

Esteban
San Diego, Calif.

On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 7:55:20 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> Super beautiful build. 
> I haven't been paying as close attention to the new Riv bikes as perhaps I 
> should. That looks great; cockpit, color, basket. The whole brisket.
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>

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Re: [RBW] Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[Steven Sweedler]

I always thought the quote "Hoopless is Hopeless"   referring to front
Lowriders was from Gary Helfrich. Someone either here or on the Bob list
attributed this to Bruce Gordon recently. Steve

On Friday, March 11, 2016, blakcloud  wrote:

> Pass and Stow were at NAHBS and while I was there the infamous Gary
> Helfrich came by and bought a rack. That to me is a ringing endorsement to
> the quality and build of Pass and Stow.
>
>
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Plymouth, New Hampshiret

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[RBW] Re: FS Spring Bike Cleaning

[Hugh Smitham]

Well this is what's left for now till I start looking in other boxes :) 
Pretty glad the activity has slowed done I've been a regular at the local 
PO. Hit me up if anything interests you.


*Parts for sale:*
>>
>>   Shimano XT FD-M781-D Triple (Down Swing & no clamp) D-type. $10 OBO 
>> plus shipping
>>
>>  Sram Apex Front Derailleur with 28.6mm shim. $10 plus shipping
>>
>>  Bontrager Carbon Water Bottle cages pair. $20 plus shipping
>>
>>  Blackburn Small Saddle Bag. $5 plus shipping
>>
>>  Chris King “2 nut” 1” threaded red anodized Headset. $75 OBO plus 
>> shipping
>>
>>  RavX bar mount. $5 plus shipping
>>
>>  Serfas Tri Gel Saddle $10 plus shipping
>>
>>  Nitto Tallux 9cm stem 225mm quill 26.0mm bar clamp $50 plus shipping
>>
>>  Thanks for looking, 
>>
>> ~Hugh
>>
> Los Angeles, CA
>>
>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] WTB: 60cm Quickbeam or Simpleone Frameset

['frank_a' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Looking for a 60cm Quickbeam or Simpleone Frameset.
 Thanks,
 - Frank

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[RBW] Re: MIESHA HAS LEFT RIVENDELL

[Karen Yuen]

I can still see Miesha's face when I look at my Betty Foy head badge :)

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[RBW] Re: Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[blakcloud]

 Pass and Stow were at NAHBS and while I was there the infamous Gary 
Helfrich came by and bought a rack. That to me is a ringing endorsement to 
the quality and build of Pass and Stow. 


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[RBW] Re: Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[blakcloud]

Pass and Stow were at NAHBS and while I was there the infamous Gary Helrich 
came by and bought a rack. That to me is a ringing endorsement to the 
quality and build of Pass and Stow. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[Patrick Moore]

Mike -- do you have the source for the test or tests showing this? I know
that my Kojaks felt much better without tubes than with tubes.

On Fri, Mar 11, 2016 at 5:11 PM, Mike Shaljian 
wrote:

> You should consider just based on the fact that going tubeless reduces
> rolling resistance by 20%. It makes a huge difference.
>
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[RBW] Re: Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

['Mojo' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Yes, Jeff does talk fleetingly about chainstay length. The Plus has 19 inch 
chainstays. The longish chainstay make steep climbing a pleasure, exactly 
opposite of what I assumed.

I have a review of the Jones Plus on the IBOB list from last July if anyone is 
interested. I find the bike to be everything that Jeff claims and is my 
favorite bike.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[Richard Rios]

I contacted the seller a day after bike was posted. Received a txt back that 
the bike had been sold. I figured at that price made sense. Asked what size it 
was just out of curiousity and got a response 62 fwiw.

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[RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[Mike Shaljian]

You should consider just based on the fact that going tubeless reduces rolling 
resistance by 20%. It makes a huge difference. 

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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[Jack Doran]

Wow, good catch on the reverse image search. This is some super shady 
business. I wonder what the advantage would be with a scam like this.

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[iamkeith]

oops - forgot to add the photo:




On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 4:50:45 PM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote:
>
> Not to hijack Bill's thread, but I thought this was interesting.  Same B65 
> fenders on my Clem. 
>
> First of all, I hadn't noticed or considered it until reading this 
> discussion, but sure enough - the chain did in fact rub on the fender in 
> the lowest two gears.   What's interesting is that I was able to fix it by 
> adding just a small notch.   The *rest* of the fender could be retained 
> because it fits easily  between the longer stays,  at its full width.   And 
> look how much more spacer the Clem requires, compared to the Appaloosa!  I 
> strongly suspect that its just a matter of time before long chainstays, 
> like those on the Appalossa, look completely normal to all of us.   After 
> staring at the Clem all winter, I already think traditional short 
> chainstays look kind of funny.  And that's without even having ridden the 
> Clem yet...
>
> On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 11:06:31 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Pics prove my morning coffee run has a nice view, and proves that I can 
>> dremel plastic
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Detail of the drive side rear B65 fender.  On the non-drive side I had to 
>> cutaway just the section for the chainstay.  On the driveside that cutout 
>> extends much higher to provide chain clearance for when I'm in the small 
>> chainring.  
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Joe Appaloosa

[iamkeith]

Not to hijack Bill's thread, but I thought this was interesting.  Same B65 
fenders on my Clem. 

First of all, I hadn't noticed or considered it until reading this 
discussion, but sure enough - the chain did in fact rub on the fender in 
the lowest two gears.   What's interesting is that I was able to fix it by 
adding just a small notch.   The *rest* of the fender could be retained 
because it fits easily  between the longer stays,  at its full width.   And 
look how much more spacer the Clem requires, compared to the Appaloosa!  I 
strongly suspect that its just a matter of time before long chainstays, 
like those on the Appalossa, look completely normal to all of us.   After 
staring at the Clem all winter, I already think traditional short 
chainstays look kind of funny.  And that's without even having ridden the 
Clem yet...

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 11:06:31 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Pics prove my morning coffee run has a nice view, and proves that I can 
> dremel plastic
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Detail of the drive side rear B65 fender.  On the non-drive side I had to 
> cutaway just the section for the chainstay.  On the driveside that cutout 
> extends much higher to provide chain clearance for when I'm in the small 
> chainring.  
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[Jack Doran]

Mark,

I had to keep coming back to this thread because of the curious damage to 
your saddle, but I'm so glad it all got worked out. Three cheers for your 
LBS!

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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[Joe Bernard]

Maybe I should tell them that the item appears in excellent conditions, and my 
courier will send payment shortly as I am out of the country. Please send bank 
number tank you.

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[René Sterental]

+1 for the Cambium!

On Friday, March 11, 2016, Metin Uz  wrote:

> Nice of Brooks to stand behind their product.
>
> On a somewhat related note, I have noticed that the leather is
> significantly softer on the recent Brooks saddles. I have a 15 year old B17
> that has seen at least 40,000 miles (on my commute bike). The surface was
> getting rough, so I replaced it with a B17 Select a year ago. The new
> saddle already has more established dimples (at the sit bones). I doubt I
> will get more than 5 years out of it.
>
> --Metin
>
> On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 1:33:58 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> Very good news!
>>
>> My LBS contacted their Brooks supplier on my behalf. Initially I went to
>> the Brooks website and contacted their warranty department. I was told my
>> saddle needed new leather and to send it in for a $110USD replacement
>> service. I didn't feel that was appropriate, asked the shop if they could
>> help. They received an immediate warranty replacement, and lucky for me,
>> they had a B17 special on the shelf already, and I walked out with a new
>> saddle AND my old saddle this afternoon.
>>
>> It can be difficult to justify purchasing local with bike components when
>> there are so many sites now that offer the stuff I want at a huge discount.
>> But these experiences remind me that service and a good relationship with
>> your shop are often worth paying a bit more for.
>>
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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[Bruce Smitham]

I tried the same. They responded via text but very strange and just felt 
like a scam. I stayed away

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 3:17:51 PM UTC-8, sameness wrote:
>
> I've tried to contact the seller for more details via all modern means of 
> communication, to no avail. 
>
> I'm not saying that isn't the actual bike for sale, but the photo is from a 
> blog in Seattle 
> .
>  
>
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>
> On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 3:05:03 PM UTC-8, Sky Coulter wrote:
>>
>> https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5447882677.html
>>
>> Stumbled across this.  If legit, seems like an outstanding deal.
>>
>> Sky in New West
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[Metin Uz]

Nice of Brooks to stand behind their product.

On a somewhat related note, I have noticed that the leather is 
significantly softer on the recent Brooks saddles. I have a 15 year old B17 
that has seen at least 40,000 miles (on my commute bike). The surface was 
getting rough, so I replaced it with a B17 Select a year ago. The new 
saddle already has more established dimples (at the sit bones). I doubt I 
will get more than 5 years out of it.

--Metin

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 1:33:58 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Very good news!
>
> My LBS contacted their Brooks supplier on my behalf. Initially I went to 
> the Brooks website and contacted their warranty department. I was told my 
> saddle needed new leather and to send it in for a $110USD replacement 
> service. I didn't feel that was appropriate, asked the shop if they could 
> help. They received an immediate warranty replacement, and lucky for me, 
> they had a B17 special on the shelf already, and I walked out with a new 
> saddle AND my old saddle this afternoon. 
>
> It can be difficult to justify purchasing local with bike components when 
> there are so many sites now that offer the stuff I want at a huge discount. 
> But these experiences remind me that service and a good relationship with 
> your shop are often worth paying a bit more for. 
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[sameness]

I've tried to contact the seller for more details via all modern means of 
communication, to no avail. 

I'm not saying that isn't the actual bike for sale, but the photo is from a 
blog in Seattle 
.
 


Jeff Hagedorn
Los Angeles, CA USA

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 3:05:03 PM UTC-8, Sky Coulter wrote:
>
> https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5447882677.html
>
> Stumbled across this.  If legit, seems like an outstanding deal.
>
> Sky in New West
>

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[Lungimsam]

Thats cool you could keep the old saddle.
You could hang it on the wall as a decoration. A badge of honor.

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[Lungimsam]

Have you tried a Cambium?
That would eliminate leather issues.
I am thinking of trying their sprung Cambium if it comes out this year.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anybody switched from 58 to 62 Hunq?

[René Sterental]

RBW put me on a 61 Homer with an 8cm stem and Noodles and I couldn't
tolerate the extension after a while. Then put me on a 60 Bombadil (my
fault for thinking I wanted 700c wheels so I could swap them between my
bikes - in hindsight should have gone one size smaller with 659b tires but
didn't realize it). Put Noodles with dirt drop stem on Bombadil and again,
even though the bars were higher I felt too stretched. Was suggested I put
Albas to address the longer reach, but since the standover clearance felt
too tight for dirt riding, I opted to swap it for the 58 Hunqapillar which
felt perfect. Never used Noodles on the Hunqapillar, just all variations of
Bullmoose bars, Bosco, etc. got my Atlantis sometime after getting the
Hunqapillar, cannot remember how I rationalized it, but got a 61 instead of
trying the 58. Same issues with horizontal reach, so tried multiple bars
until I found the so far perfect Elysees bar that I'm currently riding.

With the weight loss and improved fitness, managed to ride the Homer again
with the Compass Randonneur drop bars made possible by "discovering" Nitto
had a 5cm stem. Unhappy with, but so far not a terrible issue, the toe
overlap. Yes, you can get used to it. Yes, it always makes me curse when it
happens.

Rationalized getting a Betty shortly thereafter by saying it was for my
daughters. They've never ridden it. Keven wants to out me on a 60 but I
insisted on getting a 58 650b. Amazing fit, never put Noodles and tested
several bars successfully before settling on the MAP bars. Could have used
the Elysees as well, but wanted a different look. No issues whatsoever with
toe overlap even though I have fenders.

So, would the reach have been better on the smaller Atlantis or Homer?
Probably yes. Would the toe overlap been worse? Don't know, never tried
those sizes... Low trail fork took care of the toe overlap on the Atlantis
and customized its ride to my preferences.

Lessons learned:
- what you think is correct today will change in the future, so don't be
stubborn.
- reach is more important than height. Err on safe reach even if more seat
post will be shown. Long quill stems add even more flexibility to the
vertical adjustment as long as reach is ok.
- toe overlap can mess up the whole system if you don't tolerate it.
- with the weight loss (still 40+ lbs to go), I can lean forward just a bit
more and found myself also lowering the handlebars a bit. Roughly at or
slightly above seat level for now.
- review lesson #1, I'm sure I'll think differently in a few years.
- go with what you think is true today and/or try to experiment.

René

On Friday, March 11, 2016, Justin August  wrote:

> It seems as if Riv tends towards a 1-sizing-fits-all situations sizing
> philosophy on their frames regardless of intended application. I think it
> behooves the rider to make some choices about their own preferences and
> keep those in mind when seeking counsel from Riv. While I love my Saluki at
> 58cm (I think...I'm bad with memory) - I get a little worried about
> dismounting when off-road and would not buy a purpose-built off-road bike
> with that limited amount of standover.
>
> -Justin
>
> On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 7:52:47 AM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>
>> For reference, I have a 58cm Atlantis and Riv put me on a 61,and said I
>> could maybe even get away with a 63. I'm very happy on my 58. With 2"-plus
>> tires, I have very little standover height at all. Ultimately I decided on
>> a 58cm because it let me use a stem length I prefer. I'm running a 110cm
>> stem with Noodles and everything feels 'right'. So I've got an extra
>> centimetre of seatpost showing...who cares. It still doesn't look
>> undersized and definitely feels great.
>>
>> I think there's definitely some room to move between sizes with Riv, to a
>> point. If I only did paved touring, I'd probably prefer the bigger frame
>> size. For a more all-rounder style, I prefer the slightly undersized frame
>> with more room for me to move.
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 7:24:11 PM UTC-6, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>>
>>> The short of it is: the 58 is working very well.
>>>
>>> My body is a bit odd, I believe. I'm 6'3" with a 905 mm PBH. Shorter
>>> than average legs attached to a longer than average torso (or maybe my neck
>>> is just long). Initially, I thought this would mean that the top tube would
>>> fall short and I'd desperately hope for extra reach. But this has not been
>>> the case with the setup that I prefer: albastache bars on an 8 cm dirt
>>> drop; bars just below saddle height. I think this has to mean that my neck
>>> is long...
>>>
>>> My recommendation for those on the cusp between sizes that want to buy
>>> new now or used: if you're running drops or an alternative bar with a bit
>>> more reach like the albastache, go with the 58; if you're running
>>> albatross, chocos, boscos, etc., go with the 62.
>>>
>>> But my real recommendation is: wait a couple more months for the new

[RBW] PSA: A. Homer Hilsen for cheap

[Sky Coulter]

https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5447882677.html

Stumbled across this.  If legit, seems like an outstanding deal.

Sky in New West

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[RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

['Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Ha! I came back home to KC and just took a ride on my Roadeo with standard 
sidewall Stampede Pass. I checked the tire pressure with my thumb and 
forefinger gauge. They felt soft (I haven't been on that bike in a couple of 
months) but maybe rideable so thinking about this thread I figured I'd give it 
a go. I hit the wonderful bike path we have here. There are lots of good curves 
and bends and on the first one my tires rolled out from under me, then on a 
subsequent corner I had to go off in the grass because there was an oncoming 
rider and with proper pressure I could have easily stayed on my side but not 
today. The bike felt great on the straightaways though. I checked the pressure 
when I got home and it was 40 rear and 35 front. I normally ride those tires at 
around 80 and 70 with no issues. So I pumped them to 60 and 55 and I'll see how 
they are tomorrow. 

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[RBW] Re: Anybody switched from 58 to 62 Hunq?

[Justin August]

It seems as if Riv tends towards a 1-sizing-fits-all situations sizing 
philosophy on their frames regardless of intended application. I think it 
behooves the rider to make some choices about their own preferences and 
keep those in mind when seeking counsel from Riv. While I love my Saluki at 
58cm (I think...I'm bad with memory) - I get a little worried about 
dismounting when off-road and would not buy a purpose-built off-road bike 
with that limited amount of standover.

-Justin

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 7:52:47 AM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> For reference, I have a 58cm Atlantis and Riv put me on a 61,and said I 
> could maybe even get away with a 63. I'm very happy on my 58. With 2"-plus 
> tires, I have very little standover height at all. Ultimately I decided on 
> a 58cm because it let me use a stem length I prefer. I'm running a 110cm 
> stem with Noodles and everything feels 'right'. So I've got an extra 
> centimetre of seatpost showing...who cares. It still doesn't look 
> undersized and definitely feels great. 
>
> I think there's definitely some room to move between sizes with Riv, to a 
> point. If I only did paved touring, I'd probably prefer the bigger frame 
> size. For a more all-rounder style, I prefer the slightly undersized frame 
> with more room for me to move. 
>
> On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 7:24:11 PM UTC-6, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>
>> The short of it is: the 58 is working very well. 
>>
>> My body is a bit odd, I believe. I'm 6'3" with a 905 mm PBH. Shorter than 
>> average legs attached to a longer than average torso (or maybe my neck is 
>> just long). Initially, I thought this would mean that the top tube would 
>> fall short and I'd desperately hope for extra reach. But this has not been 
>> the case with the setup that I prefer: albastache bars on an 8 cm dirt 
>> drop; bars just below saddle height. I think this has to mean that my neck 
>> is long...
>>
>> My recommendation for those on the cusp between sizes that want to buy 
>> new now or used: if you're running drops or an alternative bar with a bit 
>> more reach like the albastache, go with the 58; if you're running 
>> albatross, chocos, boscos, etc., go with the 62. 
>>
>> But my real recommendation is: wait a couple more months for the new Hunq 
>> to come out. Rumor has it there will be a size 60 in the lineup with even 
>> greater tire clearances than the current iteration.
>>
>> Hope this helps someone out there. 
>>
>> Best,
>> D. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 8:35:23 PM UTC-5, Keith Muller wrote:
>>>
>>> Daniel,
>>>
>>> What bar/stem combo are you going to run with your Hunqapillar?  I have 
>>> a 62 Hunq and run it with a bullmoose bar.  I have a 98.5cm PBH, I'm 
>>> 6'2"ish and the bike fits me like a glove.  If you are a 90cm PBH and are 
>>> running a bullmoose bar, a 58 will probably feel great.  If you a running 
>>> an Albatrose bar, you would be fine in the 62 as well.   Just my two cents.
>>>
>>> Keith
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 8, 2015 at 6:48:50 PM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:

 If so, what were your reasons, was it the right choice, and what is 
 your PBH and height?

 Thanks folks. 

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[Howard Hatten]

Mark,
Glad to hear Brooks stood tall on your saddle. After reading your post I gave 
my b17 special an inspection and I notice that nose piece is starting to leave 
a witness mark on mine too. I tensioned the leather and it seems to help. I 
think tomorrow I'm going to punch some holes & lace the skirt up. 

Howard
Livonia Mi. 

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Re: [RBW] Pass & Stow Porteur Rack Experiences.

[Kieran J]

The CETMA racks are, unfortunately, garbage. I have an older generation 
Half-Rack and the workmanship is very poor - I almost thought about trying 
to return it when I got it, I was so dismayed. 

The P seems miles better in terms of quality. I intended to get one 
before going all in on a custom one.

KJ

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 2:55:02 PM UTC-5, Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>
>
>
> P.S.  Not that it matters in this instance, but the CETMA Half Rack is 
> also pannier compatible...
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[masmojo]

Interesting, but in lengthening the bike he only focuses on the top tube length 
and headtube/seat tube angles nothing on chain stay length.  Not necessarily 
wrong, but . . .

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Re: [RBW] Curious Brooks damage

[Hugh Smitham]

Glad this worked out Mark.

These saddles aren't inexpensive and going through the warranty process
with online retailers is a pain. I try to support my LBS' s as best I can.
If I buy online I really need to scrutinize whether this is the right part?

Now all you need to do is start the breaking in process all over again.

FWIW I have been told that one should only use proofhide once a season.

Tail Winds,

~Hugh
On Mar 11, 2016 1:34 PM, "Mark Reimer"  wrote:

> Very good news!
>
> My LBS contacted their Brooks supplier on my behalf. Initially I went to
> the Brooks website and contacted their warranty department. I was told my
> saddle needed new leather and to send it in for a $110USD replacement
> service. I didn't feel that was appropriate, asked the shop if they could
> help. They received an immediate warranty replacement, and lucky for me,
> they had a B17 special on the shelf already, and I walked out with a new
> saddle AND my old saddle this afternoon.
>
> It can be difficult to justify purchasing local with bike components when
> there are so many sites now that offer the stuff I want at a huge discount.
> But these experiences remind me that service and a good relationship with
> your shop are often worth paying a bit more for.
>
>
> 
>
>
> On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 10:45:10 AM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On 03/10/2016 11:16 AM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>> > "I do not have steel balls. But I do agree that there is a defect
>> here."
>> >
>> > Perhaps you should be more specific than "here"? Sardonic grin.
>> >
>>
>> http://www.petitionbuzz.com/petitions/trumpshowusyourpenis
>>
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[RBW] Re: Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[Ryan Ray]

Thanks for sharing this. Very interesting. I'd love one of these from Kone 
and one from Grant.

I want a Chef's Table (GREAT docuseries on Netflix) but for bike design.

- Ryan




On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 6:08:55 AM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> ICYMI, good Jeff Jones YourrTube discussion on advantages of longer 
> wheelbase.  GP has said a lot of similar stuff. 
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMkQ7z9Gi7c=youtu.be
>

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[RBW] Midwest Appaloos!

[Christopher Wiggins]

Just got word from Will that our Joe Apps shipped today.  Should have them 
by the end of next week.  Can't wait to get my hands on one!

A1 Cyclery
Bicycles for the way YOU ride.  
Since 1967


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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv Nitto Bullmoose and Nitto 34f Front Rack

[Michael Ullmer]

Bars now sold as well, thanks all!

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 11:57:55 AM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:
>
> Rack is sold!
>
> On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 9:37:20 AM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>
>> I've been doing a massive purge of extra parts in my bin before my wife 
>> and I move across town. These are some of the last items I have for sale. 
>> Ignore the price in the CL ads:
>>
>> Nitto Bullmoose Bars - $85 shipped CONUS. The protective coating that I 
>> sprayed on, but is coming off in some places. There is also some surface 
>> rust. If you can remove the surface rust and what remains of the protective 
>> coating they would look really great. I did treat the insides with frame 
>> saver.
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5479972591.html
>>
>> Nitto 34f Front Rack - $130 shipped CONUS. Only the rack is included, no 
>> hardware. I bought this from a list member about a year ago and used it off 
>> and on for my commuting bike. 
>> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5454031538.html
>>
>> PM me off list if interested. Paypal preferred, friends/family.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[masmojo]

I haven't tried tubeless yet, because of that my test fir tire pressure is if 
when I pop the front wheel over a curb when the rear make contact with said 
curb does the tire compress to the point that I need to worry about snake bite 
flats!? If not I let a little air out,  if it looks like SB could be a problem 
I put air in, until on that bike with those tires I know the pressures I need. 
With the Hetres on my Rawland I am running about 60 rear 50 front. On the 
Clementine with Big Bens I am running about 50 front & rear. Me? 250lbs

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[RBW] Re: Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[dougP]

A common assumption is that companies pull out of markets because they have 
failed.  Even large companies such as Bridgestone have limits to their 
resources.  It's entirely possible that the US bicycle business was simply 
not their best use of resources.  I have no direct knowledge but it's one 
possible explanation.  Pretty academic at this point.

To the point of this thread, Jeff Jones presents a compelling case for his 
thinking.  Now that there are some LWB Rivendells out there we'll anxiously 
await to hear how they handle off-road.  Of course, the Jones videos look 
like a lot more aggressive type of riding.  Maybe Jay Ritchey can be 
enticed to test & offer his comments on the Appaloosa.  

dougP

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 6:08:55 AM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> ICYMI, good Jeff Jones YourrTube discussion on advantages of longer 
> wheelbase.  GP has said a lot of similar stuff. 
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMkQ7z9Gi7c=youtu.be
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Riv Nitto Bullmoose and Nitto 34f Front Rack

[Michael Ullmer]

Rack is sold!

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 9:37:20 AM UTC-8, Michael Ullmer wrote:
>
> I've been doing a massive purge of extra parts in my bin before my wife 
> and I move across town. These are some of the last items I have for sale. 
> Ignore the price in the CL ads:
>
> Nitto Bullmoose Bars - $85 shipped CONUS. The protective coating that I 
> sprayed on, but is coming off in some places. There is also some surface 
> rust. If you can remove the surface rust and what remains of the protective 
> coating they would look really great. I did treat the insides with frame 
> saver.
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5479972591.html
>
> Nitto 34f Front Rack - $130 shipped CONUS. Only the rack is included, no 
> hardware. I bought this from a list member about a year ago and used it off 
> and on for my commuting bike. 
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5454031538.html
>
> PM me off list if interested. Paypal preferred, friends/family.
>

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[RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[Marc40a]

My pressures have crept up to where they are from readings of 50 front, 55 
back about a year ago.

Reviewing my notes (kept on my phone), I'm seeing:

 "56/64 seems perfect"

   to "65/59 feels mushy in front using the handlebar bag" 


Just goes to show, this search may never end. ;o) 



On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 11:50:58 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> I'm running Barlows on an upright, 210 lbs of me, and I run 60 psi rear, 
> 40 psi front
>
>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 56cm Rambouillet on Los Angeles Craigslist

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

My size, though thankfully not my city (even if it's in my state). Dodged 
another bullet.

Actually, for those who are thinking about a Ram, and especially a new one, 
Alex Cycle in Japan apparently has a few left. They list 50, 52 and 56cm 
blue ones, and 50 and 52cm green ones. Not even $1600 shipped to the US.

Must be strong. Must not hit "Submit My Order"...



On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 4:18:19 PM UTC-8, drew wrote:
>
> uggghhh. my size, my city.  i hate this group sometimes. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[Matthew J]

Interesting link.

I see in the comments some clueless knucklehead insists 'everyone' knows 
Bridgestone tanked due to GP's designs.  


>

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Re: [RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[NickBull]

On a recent ride in to work, I had a plushy Grand Bois Cypres tire in back 
but a less-plushy Panracer Pasela in front.  I was riding on a bike I 
haven't ridden for a while that has a somewhat more flexy fork.  I remember 
thinking "This Pasela seems unusually plushy on this bike, it's really 
nice."  Then I went to make a gentle "bear left" turn and discovered 
why--flat tire.  I coasted down and within 30 feet was riding on the rims.  
It took several days before I felt comfortable turning again, that "Holy 
Crap, what just happened?" feeling hangs on for awhile.

Nick

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 11:11:48 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 03/10/2016 10:59 AM, René Sterental wrote: 
> > Dumb question, but how do you know your tires are collapsing under 
> > hard cornering? What does it feel like? I guess you can't see them, so 
> > I'm wondering what the signs are. 
>
> I can tell you what excessively low front tire pressure feels like when 
> you make a tight turn: the front end seems to roll out from under you 
> and you get a "Holy Crap! What just happened???" feeling.   I've found 
> with 32mm and above you can have a slow leak that can get pretty far 
> down and not notice anything as long as you're going in a straight line, 
> but when you go to make a 90 degree turn the feeling is so unexpected 
> and so unusual it really gets your attention. 
>

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[RBW] FS: Trek 650b'd 330 Frameset F/F/HS - $250 plus shipping

[David Banzer]

My forthcoming BMC Monster Cross will make this bike unneeded, so selling 
frameset.

1987 Trek 330 Frameset
I had a local framebuilder add cantilever brake studs for 650b wheels, then 
I rattlecanned the area. 
Frame could be repainted as there is wear to the original paint, or just 
ride it as it is.
63.5cm seattube center-center.
Front end geometry is 73degree headtube, 45mm fork rake. I road it with a 
large saddlebag and it handled great.
I picked this frame to have canti's added to as it checked off a lot of 
boxes for a nice 650b road bike:
Reynolds 531db main tubes, downtube brake bosses, 2 water bottle cages, and 
a pump peg.
Original geometry specs here: 
http://vintage-trek.com/images/trek/1987/87Trek23.jpg - mine's the 25.5" 
size
I ran it mainly with 38mm tires and fenders would fit. I recall fitting it 
with Fatty Rumpkins and fenders at some point. I test fitted some 42mm Pari 
Motos (mine are 40mm actual) and clearances are kind of tight at fork crown 
and chainstays (wheel slid to the back of dropouts) but are acceptable if 
paved roads are mainly what would be ridden. Fenders would fit as well.
This bike 'planed' very nicely for me.

$250 plus shipping.
Paypal for payment, please. I'll cover PP fees.

Older photos here (meaning some paint chips occurred at some point during 
use, not reflected in these photos): 
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz136/dabanzer/E24B372C-21E3-4BB9-A15E-9586BCD86C66-6351-066096CFE8C2_zpse2ac3877.jpg
Contact offlist if you're interested.
Thanks,
David
Chicago

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[RBW] FS: Riv Nitto Bullmoose and Nitto 34f Front Rack

[Michael Ullmer]

I've been doing a massive purge of extra parts in my bin before my wife and 
I move across town. These are some of the last items I have for sale. 
Ignore the price in the CL ads:

Nitto Bullmoose Bars - $85 shipped CONUS. The protective coating that I 
sprayed on, but is coming off in some places. There is also some surface 
rust. If you can remove the surface rust and what remains of the protective 
coating they would look really great. I did treat the insides with frame 
saver.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5479972591.html

Nitto 34f Front Rack - $130 shipped CONUS. Only the rack is included, no 
hardware. I bought this from a list member about a year ago and used it off 
and on for my commuting bike. 
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bop/5454031538.html

PM me off list if interested. Paypal preferred, friends/family.

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[RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[Ron Mc]

I'm running Barlows on an upright, 210 lbs of me, and I run 60 psi rear, 40 
psi front


> Yikes. That seems awfully low for the Barlows, they're so supple. I run 
> mine at 62 front 69 rear and I just bumped that up from 60 /68. Granted, 
> I'm probably 240-250, all in, with bodyweight, bike, and gear. 
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB: Acorn Handlebar bag

[drew]

looking for one of the older style acorn handlebar bags. not boxy rando 
style. the one like THIS 

 with 
the 2 pockets on the back.  preferably in green or tan or not black. 

i have some things i can trade or some money i can send. 
thanks. 

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[RBW] FS: VP Vice - Riv Gray - $55 shipped

[David Banzer]

I went pedal crazy apparently, and have an extra, new set of VP Vice pedals 
in Riv gray, never taken out of the original box.
$55 shipped. 
Paypal personal payment please.
Contact offlist if interested.
Thanks,
David
Chicago

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[RBW] Re: Anybody switched from 58 to 62 Hunq?

[Mark Reimer]

For reference, I have a 58cm Atlantis and Riv put me on a 61,and said I 
could maybe even get away with a 63. I'm very happy on my 58. With 2"-plus 
tires, I have very little standover height at all. Ultimately I decided on 
a 58cm because it let me use a stem length I prefer. I'm running a 110cm 
stem with Noodles and everything feels 'right'. So I've got an extra 
centimetre of seatpost showing...who cares. It still doesn't look 
undersized and definitely feels great. 

I think there's definitely some room to move between sizes with Riv, to a 
point. If I only did paved touring, I'd probably prefer the bigger frame 
size. For a more all-rounder style, I prefer the slightly undersized frame 
with more room for me to move. 

On Wednesday, March 9, 2016 at 7:24:11 PM UTC-6, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> The short of it is: the 58 is working very well. 
>
> My body is a bit odd, I believe. I'm 6'3" with a 905 mm PBH. Shorter than 
> average legs attached to a longer than average torso (or maybe my neck is 
> just long). Initially, I thought this would mean that the top tube would 
> fall short and I'd desperately hope for extra reach. But this has not been 
> the case with the setup that I prefer: albastache bars on an 8 cm dirt 
> drop; bars just below saddle height. I think this has to mean that my neck 
> is long...
>
> My recommendation for those on the cusp between sizes that want to buy new 
> now or used: if you're running drops or an alternative bar with a bit more 
> reach like the albastache, go with the 58; if you're running albatross, 
> chocos, boscos, etc., go with the 62. 
>
> But my real recommendation is: wait a couple more months for the new Hunq 
> to come out. Rumor has it there will be a size 60 in the lineup with even 
> greater tire clearances than the current iteration.
>
> Hope this helps someone out there. 
>
> Best,
> D. 
>
> On Tuesday, March 8, 2016 at 8:35:23 PM UTC-5, Keith Muller wrote:
>>
>> Daniel,
>>
>> What bar/stem combo are you going to run with your Hunqapillar?  I have a 
>> 62 Hunq and run it with a bullmoose bar.  I have a 98.5cm PBH, I'm 6'2"ish 
>> and the bike fits me like a glove.  If you are a 90cm PBH and are running a 
>> bullmoose bar, a 58 will probably feel great.  If you a running an 
>> Albatrose bar, you would be fine in the 62 as well.   Just my two cents.
>>
>> Keith
>>
>> On Sunday, November 8, 2015 at 6:48:50 PM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>>
>>> If so, what were your reasons, was it the right choice, and what is your 
>>> PBH and height?
>>>
>>> Thanks folks. 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Science of the Country Road Washboard

[Mark Reimer]

I get a lot of really bad washboard up here. The worst kind in your 
description. Even in a car it's brutal to drive over. I would say the 
difference between the top of the 'ridge' and the bottom of the 'trough' is 
probably around...maybe two inches or so. I've found that in that kind of 
vibration, the best thing I can do is to ride just off the saddle (maybe 
half an inch or so, just enough to save my backside from the vibration), 
and to also maintain as light a grip as possible on the bars. Often I'm not 
actually squeezing the bars at all, just resting my hands on the tops of 
the bars and allowing them to bounce around underneath. The benefit of this 
style is that the only thing attached to your bike are your feet, so your 
whole body can act as a shock absorber. You are also allowing the bike to 
bounce around under you freely, rather than take your body with it. 

The bad part is that it's quite exhausting. staying off both the saddle and 
the bars is a leg workout for sure. Sometimes I'll have to do this for a 
mile or so at a time but usually I'll come across a smoother section, 
shoulder of the road, or something where I have some relief. 

Also I fully agree that the fatter your tires and lower the pressure, the 
better.

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 10:51:08 AM UTC-6, jeffrey kane wrote:
>
> I was out on one of my usual paved routes this morning and was dismayed to 
> find a portion of road covered in salt! Like, from a spreader truck that 
> clearly made a mistake and dumped an inch or so of the stuff for the better 
> part of a mile. What was interesting is that (I suppose) after being driven 
> over a bunch the loose salt on a paved surface had formed into washboard 
> patterns ... 
>
> On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 11:01:30 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Washboard is a frequent reality of country roads and this being my 
>> country road riding season (as the trails haven’t melted yet), it is a 
>> reality of my late winter, early spring rides. Some observations that 
>> perhaps your experience can contribute to so we can collectively learn how 
>> to more effectively ride these corrugated beasties.
>>
>> — Washboard is nothing but a frequency wave, the cumulative result of 
>> traffic, weight, speed, and likely others.
>> — Randomly rough/rocky roads are easier to ride and smoother than equally 
>> rough washboard because of the regularity of the washboard.
>> — Like on a river in the rapids, there is oft a ridge where the “waves” 
>> cancel each other out. Ride the ridge!
>> — supple tires make a HUGE difference in smoothing out washboard, until 
>> the wave “frequency” gets too large.
>> — Small range frequency washboard (tires absorb it, regardless of speed) 
>> has a much larger range when riding supple tires that stiff walled and flat 
>> protected tires.
>> — Medium range frequency washboard (greater than tires absorb, less than 
>> requires significant slowing) is significantly smoothed out by riding it 
>> faster so the bike skims along the top.
>> — Large range frequency washboard (too large for speed to “skim” over the 
>> top) requires knees and elbows bent, seat off the saddle, and I’ve yet to 
>> find a way to make it pleasant to ride. Fortunately, it is rare to find a 
>> road that has greater than short stretches fully covered in width by this 
>> range. But those quarter mile sections that do have it — UGH!
>> — Riding with speed into a section I thought (hoped, prayed) was medium 
>> frequency but rapidly reveals it is large frequency, tests one’s ability to 
>> grip the bar with three fingers and brake quickly with one. Factors that 
>> contribute to this deception include cloud cover, angle of the sun, tree 
>> cover, etc.
>> — Climbing up medium or large frequency washboard is one of the most 
>> challenging types of riding I’ve experienced, requiring a mostly-unweighted 
>> cranking on the pedals, with significant knee bend even at full extention 
>> to allow room for the bike is flowing up and down beneath me. Fully in the 
>> saddle and the full effect of the waves is maximized, full standing and the 
>> effect of the waves is often magnified. As it is, every pedal stroke is 
>> unpredictable, depending on if each wheel is heading down into the trough 
>> or up out of the trough.
>>
>> Your experience and learnings?
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.OurHolyConception.org 
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org 
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: My newish Roadeo and paint touchup tips

[Jim C]

Chad-

The bike looks lovely and he Brooks Cambium seems so right for the style. 
Regarding the touch-up, I would advise clearcoat afterwards. All auto 
touch-up sticks come with clear coat and you will get colour change and 
oxidation without. Hard to think of that lovely paint job getting chipped.

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 12:26:12 PM UTC-5, Chad wrote:
>
> So I'm enjoying the 53cm demo Roadeo I recently bought from Riv, though I 
> haven't had the chance to get very many rides in.  It is in remarkable 
> shape, the only obvious blemish being several chainstay chips that really 
> standout on the white. I ordered a bottle of touchup paint from Waterford.  
> I've had varied success touching up bike paint in the past.  I'm attaching 
> a pic of the Waterford touchup instructions.  The only thing that does not 
> make sense to me is using nail polish remover to thin the paint.  Wouldn't 
> I better off using model paint thinner or thinner from the auto parts 
> store.  Should I apply clearcoat over the white.  In the past, I've just 
> used the Dupicolor automotive touchup kit with as close to a match as I 
> could find.  The auto kit included a small sanding tip to clean out the 
> chip and clearcoat.  Any tips?  I'm sure I'm overthinking this!
>

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[RBW] Re: How to Determine the "Correct" Tire Pressure?

[Marc40a]

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 10:32:39 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Thank you, Jan. This is great! This matches my experience of riding by 
> feel, in which I've settled on:
>
> 30 psi Barlow Pass on Quickbeam and loaded Thunder Burt Hunqapillar
> 20 psi day ride TB Hunqapillar (and even with some 60 pound grocery loads, 
> but those are pushing it a bit.)
>
> Even our "smooth" roads are usually chip seal, so lots of wee bumps to 
> absorb. Grin. Of course, I don't track speed, time, or distance, so I've no 
> real idea of the effect of such low pressures other than the ride is 
> smoother. Wonderful to see there isn't much if any price in speed -- smooth 
> is fast. Grin.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>


Yikes. That seems awfully low for the Barlows, they're so supple. I run 
mine at 62 front 69 rear and I just bumped that up from 60 /68. Granted, 
I'm probably 240-250, all in, with bodyweight, bike, and gear. 

>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Compass Barlow Pass 700x38 Tires, Pair, New

[Minh]

Quickly sold, thanks!

On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 9:44:54 AM UTC-5, Minh wrote:
>
> All prices below are paypal, and shipping is included.  if you buy more 
> then one item then i will combine shipping as best as i can, there is a 
> photoset here -> https://goo.gl/photos/9NfCPWYZ6BJEL13f6
>
> Thought these were sold, but then the buyer measured his frame!  These are 
> big so make sure you can accommodate 38s!
>
> Compass Barlow Pass Tires (700x38mm), $100
>
> These are the regular casing, tan sidewall, 2 tires.  I picked these up 
> off the list in a fit of tire-upgraditis but never mounted them, been in a 
> closet for about a year.  They look new/unmounted with the whiskers still 
> attached, however they are not in packaging.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My newish Roadeo and paint touchup tips

[eflayer]

to do it right requires patience and a steady hand:

http://guidetodetailing.com/damage-repair/how-to-repair-paint-chips-deep-scratches/

On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 9:26:12 AM UTC-8, Chad wrote:
>
> So I'm enjoying the 53cm demo Roadeo I recently bought from Riv, though I 
> haven't had the chance to get very many rides in.  It is in remarkable 
> shape, the only obvious blemish being several chainstay chips that really 
> standout on the white. I ordered a bottle of touchup paint from Waterford.  
> I've had varied success touching up bike paint in the past.  I'm attaching 
> a pic of the Waterford touchup instructions.  The only thing that does not 
> make sense to me is using nail polish remover to thin the paint.  Wouldn't 
> I better off using model paint thinner or thinner from the auto parts 
> store.  Should I apply clearcoat over the white.  In the past, I've just 
> used the Dupicolor automotive touchup kit with as close to a match as I 
> could find.  The auto kit included a small sanding tip to clean out the 
> chip and clearcoat.  Any tips?  I'm sure I'm overthinking this!
>

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[RBW] FS: Compass Barlow Pass 700x38 Tires, Pair, New

[Minh]

All prices below are paypal, and shipping is included.  if you buy more 
then one item then i will combine shipping as best as i can, there is a 
photoset here -> https://goo.gl/photos/9NfCPWYZ6BJEL13f6

Thought these were sold, but then the buyer measured his frame!  These are 
big so make sure you can accommodate 38s!

Compass Barlow Pass Tires (700x38mm), $100

These are the regular casing, tan sidewall, 2 tires.  I picked these up off 
the list in a fit of tire-upgraditis but never mounted them, been in a 
closet for about a year.  They look new/unmounted with the whiskers still 
attached, however they are not in packaging.

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[RBW] FS: IRD Cafam Canti Brakes V1 (old style)

[Minh]

All prices below are paypal, and shipping is included.  if you buy more 
then one item then i will combine shipping as best as i can, there is a 
photoset here -> https://goo.gl/photos/9NfCPWYZ6BJEL13f6

Buyer backed out so these are back up for sale!  To avoid confusion this is 
the older model Cafam, IRD recently updated these. 

V1 (these brakes) look like this -> https://flic.kr/p/9RtMR1 
V2 (new version) look like this -> https://flic.kr/p/D5JQgP

To put it in Paul's Brake terms, the V1 are like the Touring and the V2 are 
like the Neo-Retro.  As an owner of the Paul's brakes the IRD V1 and V2 
have similar plus or minuses, e.g. setup, straddle cable, heel clearance 
etc so make sure to do your homework!


IRD Cafam Canti Brakes (old model), $45

The older model of these brakes, i don’t have a good read on the mileage so 
please take a look at the pics for the pad wear.  The black tape on the 
pivots was to keep all the parts together!  One of the cable straddles is 
missing the IRD sticker.  This is for 1 pair--so 1 bikes worth.

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Re: [RBW] Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[James Warren]

Totally fun to receive that link the same morning as this one:

http://www.bikerumor.com/2016/03/10/tpe16-iconic-brand-bridgestone-cycles-makes-a-strong-push-to-put-branded-bikes-back-on-the-market/


Absorbing the two in the same morning underscores to me how my own interests 
have evolved in the last 22 years.

 
On Mar 11, 2016, at 6:08 AM, Matthew J wrote:

> ICYMI, good Jeff Jones YourrTube discussion on advantages of longer 
> wheelbase.  GP has said a lot of similar stuff. 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMkQ7z9Gi7c=youtu.be
> 
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[RBW] Jeff Jones in depth on longer wheelbase

[Matthew J]

ICYMI, good Jeff Jones YourrTube discussion on advantages of longer 
wheelbase.  GP has said a lot of similar stuff. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMkQ7z9Gi7c=youtu.be

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[RBW] Re: MIESHA HAS LEFT RIVENDELL

[Ron Mc]

I hope she left her cork grips, because I really like them.  

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[RBW] My newish Roadeo and paint touchup tips

[islaysteve]

Nail polish remover used to contain acetone, but no longer does.  You can get 
acetone at the hardware store, I would guess this is what WF was trying yo 
recommend.  You can also get lacquer thinner, which may work.  

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[RBW] Re: My newish Roadeo and paint touchup tips

[islaysteve]

I wouldn't use paint thinner either, if WF is recommending nail polish remover. 
I would guess they might want acetone, which used to in polish remover. Or you 
could get automotive paint thinner, which might be a bit pricey.

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[RBW] Re: My newish Roadeo and paint touchup tips

[Michael Hechmer]

I have always wondered why hi end bike makers, especially custom frames, 
don't supply an exact paint mfg & color, or better yet, a bottle of touch 
up paint.  It is easy to identify every other part of the bike, why not the 
paint?
Michael


On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 12:26:12 PM UTC-5, Chad wrote:
>
> So I'm enjoying the 53cm demo Roadeo I recently bought from Riv, though I 
> haven't had the chance to get very many rides in.  It is in remarkable 
> shape, the only obvious blemish being several chainstay chips that really 
> standout on the white. I ordered a bottle of touchup paint from Waterford.  
> I've had varied success touching up bike paint in the past.  I'm attaching 
> a pic of the Waterford touchup instructions.  The only thing that does not 
> make sense to me is using nail polish remover to thin the paint.  Wouldn't 
> I better off using model paint thinner or thinner from the auto parts 
> store.  Should I apply clearcoat over the white.  In the past, I've just 
> used the Dupicolor automotive touchup kit with as close to a match as I 
> could find.  The auto kit included a small sanding tip to clean out the 
> chip and clearcoat.  Any tips?  I'm sure I'm overthinking this!
>

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Re: [RBW] Strada Rossa March 19th... you all are invited!

[cyclotourist]

It seems to be the popular thing to do!!!

On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 10:48 PM, Evan E.  wrote:

> David,
>
> Ouch! I broke my left collarbone on January 2. It's healed now. Wishing
> you a speedy and full recovery.
>
> Evan
>
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-- 
Cheers,
David

Member, Supreme Council of Cyberspace

"it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal

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