[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Nick Payne]

My 61cm Bleriot kitted out with Hetres, mudguards, B17 saddle, Nitto rack, 
Carradice Camper longflap, frame pump, and two full 750ml waterbottles 
weighs 17kg (37.5lbs). It would have weighed rather more in this photo as I 
had the Carradice filled with enough gear for a short tour in the Victorian 
Alps:




Nick

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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[stevef]

I enjoy my Rambouillet too much to weight it.


On Sunday, August 3, 2014 at 4:04:20 PM UTC-4, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Since there has been curiosity about peoples' complete bikes' and/or 
> frames' weights, I figured it would be fun to reveal how much our Rivbikes 
> weigh.
>  
> Would be informative to know:
> 1. Model
> 2. Framesize
> 3. Weight of complete build, or your frameset. 
> (Including fenders/bottlecages/racks/lights/bells is ok since 
> dismantle-ization would be unfair to expect of a complete build. But no 
> bags/bottles on board, please).
> 4. Build list, if you feel up to all that typing. Would be fun to see what 
> everyone is hanging on their Rivs anyway. But that is a lot to ask and not 
> expected.
>  
> I would start, but I have to go home and weight the bikes first.
> So I will try to report back soon with my Sam and Bleriot weights.
>  
> And if you guys feel strongly about this being inappropriate for 
> Riv-culture, please delete the thread, but don't run me outta the forum on 
> a rail. This is all intended in good fun and info-purposes.
>  
>

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[RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two cranksets 
currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of, that is. I’d 
love to hear of others if you know of any. 



   1. White Industries VBC.  


This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I 
may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker. 



   1. DaVinci.  


I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s US 
made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something 
different for the Roadeo, though. 


TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO 
cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice 
NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is. 
First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a 
11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some 
somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular, 
weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would 
be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400 
range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as 
robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t? 


Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance 
for all of your advice. 

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Steve Palincsar]

Why have you ruled out the Rene Herse crank?

On 10/25/18 8:23 AM, David Wadstrup wrote:


I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two 
cranksets currently in production that I’m considering. That I know 
of, that is. I’d love to hear of others if you know of any.



 1. White Industries VBC.


This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in 
black. I may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker.



 2. DaVinci.


I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that 
it’s US made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like 
something different for the Roadeo, though.



TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass 
of VO cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I 
thought a nice NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure 
how smart this is. First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be 
the best choice for a 11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? 
Also, I read some somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and 
aluminum in particular, weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing 
the vintage crank I’d buy would be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve 
seen a couple for sale in the $400 range, but am nervous about 
investing so much in a set that might not be as robust as I’d want it. 
Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t?



Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in 
advance for all of your advice.




--
Steve Palincsar
Alexandria, Virginia
USA

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Lum Gim Fong]

Rene Herse - reported flex complaints and price keep me away.

I guess think about what gearing you want. Start from there.
You want 53-39 race gearing? (alot available)
40/26 wide /low? (get Sugino or Silver wide low cranksets)
Double or Triple?
I personally would not buy vintage as I would fear metal failures, as you 
mentioned.

Even NITTO says you have to toss your aluminum bars at a certain age (I 
think 10 years I read?).

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

Hi Steve. 

I’ve mostly written it off because I feel its aesthetic speaks to a different 
era than the one guiding me in this build. Also, and admittedly I have no real 
knowledge to base this on, I feel like a 5 bolt pattern is preferable to the 3 
bolt pattern that the RH uses.

  

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Bill Schairer]

Personally, I’d go vintage and choose chainrings using a gear chart.  I don’t 
undersand the concept of “stock” chainrings but it seems people buy whole new 
cranks to change gearing.  Of course, I friction shift and maybe that’s the 
difference but a big reason I prefer friction is because of the flexibility.  
If aluminum weakens with age, I suspect this is one of those 
theoretical/marketing arguments of no real consequence in real life on a 
bicycle.  I might consider a Herse crank if you could get odd numbered teeth 
for them but you can’t so I’m not interested.  For that kind of money, I can 
spring for vintage rings with odd tooth counts for my vintage cranks to really 
dial in the gearing I want.

Bill

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Shoji Takahashi]

Have you considered the Sugino OX series? Or Sugino Mighty Tour? 

Available in silver, 110/74 BCD, many crank-arm lengths. I think they're 
available 11-sp compatible.

OX is available at different price points depending on the level of finish.

Good luck!
shoji



On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 8:23:53 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two 
> cranksets currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of, 
> that is. I’d love to hear of others if you know of any. 
>
>
>
>1. White Industries VBC.  
>
>
> This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I 
> may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker. 
>
>
>
>1. DaVinci.  
>
>
> I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s 
> US made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something 
> different for the Roadeo, though. 
>
>
> TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
> DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO 
> cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice 
> NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is. 
> First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a 
> 11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some 
> somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular, 
> weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would 
> be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400 
> range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as 
> robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t? 
>
>
> Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance 
> for all of your advice. 
>

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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Lum Gim Fong]

Don't be scared.
I bet it is under 28lbs. without bags on it.

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Lum Gim Fong]

Just as a reference point, Sugino XD2 double 110bcd 34/43 rings weighs 677g.
That includes rings, arms, bolts.

For a Rivbuild that isn't going to be vintage looking I think the Sugino 
stuff is great. All silver, doesn't look olde tymie and doesn't look 
transformer new like new cranksets ny Shimano/SRAM

>  
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[RichS]

My 2014 Atlantis (size 53) has 46cm chain stays.

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 8:12:37 PM UTC-4, dougP wrote:
>
> Tim:
>
> Is that the interim version with the slightly longer chainstays?  
> Waterford made some for Rivendell with chainstays longer than the Toyo and 
> shorter than the current LWB model.  IIRC, they were only a couple of 
> centimeters longer.  I rode one of those & the improvement in ride quality 
> was noticeable from my 58 cm Atlantis (45.5 cm).  
>
> dougP
>
> On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 12:41:35 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> I didn't want to do this, but the Atlantis Waterford demo I purchased 
>> earlier this year is up for sale.
>> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6731696265.html
>>
>> I'm a an hour and a half to two hours north of Seattle in Anacortes.
>>
>> I would prefer to sell it local as I have never packed nor shipped a 
>> bike.  But, if someone wants it shipped, that might still be possible.  I'm 
>> not sure which LBS might be okay for doing this.  If you can find and make 
>> arrangements with one of them, I can drop it off there.  I'm just not 
>> comfortable being responsible for that myself.
>>
>> If you have any questions, please let me know.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[RichS]

Doug, thanks for that heads up. I'm definitely interested. Original Silver 
shifters don't quite do it for me as thumbies. Love 'em as bar ends and 
down tubers.

Best,
Rich in ATL

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:20:15 AM UTC-4, dougP wrote:
>
> Grant posted a brief update that the Silver 2 thumb shifter project is 
> still alive.  So if you've been waiting for these, as I have, you can renew 
> your hope.  No delivery date for the consumer product, but at least the 
> project carries on.
>
> dougP
>

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Ginz]

Has anyone seen a spy photo or drawing of the Silver 2 concept?

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Kieran J]

Some info about your desired gearing would probably help with suggestions. 
Are you thinking traditional road, like 53/39t? "Compact", as in 50/34t? 
Sub-compact?
Personally, I like a 44/28t ring combo and farily low-Q on my road bike, 
which really narrows down the options. 

KJ


On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 5:23:53 AM UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two 
> cranksets currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of, 
> that is. I’d love to hear of others if you know of any. 
>
>
>
>1. White Industries VBC.  
>
>
> This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I 
> may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker. 
>
>
>
>1. DaVinci.  
>
>
> I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s 
> US made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something 
> different for the Roadeo, though. 
>
>
> TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
> DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO 
> cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice 
> NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is. 
> First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a 
> 11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some 
> somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular, 
> weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would 
> be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400 
> range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as 
> robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t? 
>
>
> Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance 
> for all of your advice. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[ascpgh]

Being interested in DaVinci and White VBC would make me believe David's 
cranks of consideration must be for square taper BBs, so the Sugino OX 
would be out. I had a Mavic crank (on my MB-0) that cracked from a CNC 
machined edge at the point where the base of the arm formed a web as its 
contour splayed out to a proximate finger. Makes me hesitant of non-forged 
arms.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 9:19:45 AM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Have you considered the Sugino OX series? Or Sugino Mighty Tour? 
>
> Available in silver, 110/74 BCD, many crank-arm lengths. I think they're 
> available 11-sp compatible.
>
> OX is available at different price points depending on the level of finish.
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
>
>
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 8:23:53 AM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>> I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two 
>> cranksets currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of, 
>> that is. I’d love to hear of others if you know of any. 
>>
>>
>>
>>1. White Industries VBC.  
>>
>>
>> This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I 
>> may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker. 
>>
>>
>>
>>1. DaVinci.  
>>
>>
>> I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s 
>> US made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something 
>> different for the Roadeo, though. 
>>
>>
>> TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
>> DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO 
>> cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice 
>> NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is. 
>> First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a 
>> 11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some 
>> somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular, 
>> weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would 
>> be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400 
>> range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as 
>> robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t? 
>>
>>
>> Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance 
>> for all of your advice. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

I actually forgot all about Sugino! Thanks for the reminder. I don’t think I’d 
use the XD2, but will check out their road cranks later this evening. 

Gearing is something I’m not sure about. I’d love some advice. I have triples 
on other bikes and love them, but want a double for sure on the Roadeo. I won’t 
race, per se, but wouldn’t mind a racy “training” set up. I’m in good shape and 
weigh 165lb. Also something good for serious climbing. Maybe good racing and 
good hill climbing ratios are mutually exclusive? I don’t know enough to say. 
But if they are, I’d lean more towards the good hill climber over a real high 
end sprinter. Does this make sense? What would you recommend up front? And in 
back on the cassette for that matter?

Thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter

[John G.]

Another takeaway from the Nor'Easter. The Cheviot is a REALLY versatile 
bike. I was left open-mouthed at the way the Cheviots performed on this 
ride. If I wasn't so far over my bike limit, I'd get one in a heartbeat.

On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 4:28:30 PM UTC-4, A. Nostuh wrote:
>
> “Carriage roads” are the new “gravel road”. 
>
> To be on the bleeding edge of bike trends you must now have a carriage 
> road bike in the stable. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter

[lambbo]

GO Cheviots! :)

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:22:38 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> Another takeaway from the Nor'Easter. The Cheviot is a REALLY versatile 
> bike. I was left open-mouthed at the way the Cheviots performed on this 
> ride. If I wasn't so far over my bike limit, I'd get one in a heartbeat.
>
> On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 4:28:30 PM UTC-4, A. Nostuh wrote:
>>
>> “Carriage roads” are the new “gravel road”. 
>>
>> To be on the bleeding edge of bike trends you must now have a carriage 
>> road bike in the stable. 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Tim Gavin]

David-

If you like triples, then you probably want a drivetrain with a wide range
and some good, low gears.

*Compact Double:*
You can get that combination easily with a wide-range rear cassette (for
example, 11-34t) and a standard "compact double" crankset (110 bcd, 50/34
rings).  The 34:34 is a 1:1 low gear, which is lowest for most non-touring
bikes.

You can get lower than that with MTB cassettes (for example, 11-40t).  But
remember that any cassette larger than 28t usually requires an MTB
derailleur, and anything larger than 36t usually requires a new (aka ugly)
MTB derailleur and/or a Wolftooth Goat/Roadlink adapter.

*Subcompact Double:*
Or, you can get lower than that with "subcompact" crankset, often using a
110/74 bcd (aka the inner two rings of a triple).  Others use a smaller
bcd, or a direct-mount (like the White VBC) to fit smaller rings.

With a "subcompact" crankset (Sugino 40/26 is popular around here), you can
use a smaller cassette (11-26t would still give you a 1:1 low gear) which
is lighter and uses standard "road" derailleurs.

I owned a Roadeo for a short time, and set it up this way with a VO
Cyclotouriste 46/30 crankset and 11-28t cassette (with vintage
Sachs/Campagnolo Ergopower drivetrain).  My only complaint with the gearing
was the jump between 46/30 seemed pretty large, and usually required a rear
shift at the same time to find a sensible gear progression.



There are options to use a very-wide-range rear cassette and a single front
chainring (called "1x" aka "1 by").  But I believe that this gearing is OK
off-road but leaves too many gaps in the gearing mostly used on the road.

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 11:22 AM David Wadstrup 
wrote:

> I actually forgot all about Sugino! Thanks for the reminder. I don’t think
> I’d use the XD2, but will check out their road cranks later this evening.
>
> Gearing is something I’m not sure about. I’d love some advice. I have
> triples on other bikes and love them, but want a double for sure on the
> Roadeo. I won’t race, per se, but wouldn’t mind a racy “training” set up.
> I’m in good shape and weigh 165lb. Also something good for serious
> climbing. Maybe good racing and good hill climbing ratios are mutually
> exclusive? I don’t know enough to say. But if they are, I’d lean more
> towards the good hill climber over a real high end sprinter. Does this make
> sense? What would you recommend up front? And in back on the cassette for
> that matter?
>
> Thanks!
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Tim Gavin]

> But remember that any cassette larger than 28t usually requires an MTB
> derailleur
>



> (or longer-cage road derailleur, aka Shimano GS or SRAM Wi-Fli)
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Lum Gim Fong]

You could do a 26/42 up front.
Make sure the big ring is geared with rear cassette so you can handle 95% 
of your riding so you can stay in that ring.

Like, use a 11-32 Shimano HG50 8-speed cassette on the rear with an SRAM 
PC850 chain and you are all set.
Dump to the granny for anything over 8% slope. Everything else should be 
good on the big ring so you don't have to shift much at all up front. 
Unless you live in a really hilly area.


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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Daniel M]

> Has anyone seen a spy photo or drawing of the Silver 2 concept?

>From the BLUG some time ago, assuming it displays correctly:

Daniel "I think I just bottom-posted" M
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Daniel M]

I'm also around 165lbs and the steep hills around here keep me in shape. Almost 
all of my miles these days are on a pair of Rohloff bikes and a fixie, but I'm 
in the habit of maintaining and modifying derailer bikes for my wife and a few 
friends, plus I have a few beloved derailer bikes in the collection. Here is my 
current thinking on derailer setups:

110/74 double or triple with bash guard in place of outer ring, 46/30 or 44/28.
8-speed cassette, 12-34

Reasoning: 6/7/8 speed use the same chain. They are cheap, reliable, and 
available with a master link.
8/9/10 use the same hub spacing. So 8-speed is the magic overlap of 
availability, simplicity, and affordability.

Shimano 8-speed bar-end shifters are still available and have a friction 
bailout. I like indexed bar-ends for drop bar bikes where I really want the 
shift to be right the first time. For upright bikes, you can mount the Shimano 
bar-end shifters on Thumbies at great expense, but these days I've been combing 
the local bike collective for 80's friction thumbshifters. I put the classic 
Suntours on my wife's bike plus a friends, and I just picked up the Shimano 
equivalent for another friend's city bike. For an upright bar where the 
shifters are always easily accessible from the grip, I'm fine with friction - 
especially on spouse's and friends' bikes for which I would otherwise be 
responsible for keeping the indexing adjusted!

It looks like 10-speed will be available for a good long time, so you can 
always update the cassette if 8-speed goes the way of the Dodo. AND: weirdly 
enough, Sunrace's 10-speed bar-end shifters have a friction option! (The 
8-speeds don't for some reason.) So 2x10 remains palatable in the future if 
8-speed becomes a parts-hunting endeavor.

All of my favorite crank options (besides Rene Herse) are on Soma's web store 
under Touring Cranks: https://store.somafab.com/touringcranks.html 

If I were buying a crankset new and it had to be square taper, I'd probably go 
with the IRD Defiant and its 94bcd, which might limit you to 30t granny. But 
30-34 is a nice low climbing gear for a road bike! I actually really like 
external BB (Hollowtech) cranksets because they are so easy to remove for 
travel. So if I were building a road bike right now, I'd probably put the IRD 
Lobo on it. 110/74 double, which gives you all the options, and I think it's 
slightly cheaper and slightly better-looking than the Sugino OX cranks.

Finally, 11-tooth cogs are one tooth too small for me. 12-tooth wears out fast 
enough! As goes your cog, so goes your chain, so if you skip the 11-tooth your 
cassette and chain should both last longer - on the order of 10%.

This might not be everybody's cup of tea, but I think you end up with a nice 
wide-range cassette and an all-around ring with a granny bailout, using 
durable, reliable parts that are inexpensive to replace when you wear them out.

Daniel M
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter

[A. Nostuh]

I don't know about you Anton, but I'm really considering adding some canti 
posts to my Chevvy for more clearance.

That would be my ideal Carriage Bike™

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[phil k]

David, I use the Rivendell Silver cranks which have a high end of 44 and 
low of 26. I never really need too low. I think a 44/30 would be good. I 
use a 11-32 cassette.

If I were you, I'd check out the Carmina cranks. They look very good, 
silver, and have a wide range of chainring options. 

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:22:41 PM UTC-4, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> I actually forgot all about Sugino! Thanks for the reminder. I don’t think 
> I’d use the XD2, but will check out their road cranks later this evening. 
>
> Gearing is something I’m not sure about. I’d love some advice. I have 
> triples on other bikes and love them, but want a double for sure on the 
> Roadeo. I won’t race, per se, but wouldn’t mind a racy “training” set up. 
> I’m in good shape and weigh 165lb. Also something good for serious 
> climbing. Maybe good racing and good hill climbing ratios are mutually 
> exclusive? I don’t know enough to say. But if they are, I’d lean more 
> towards the good hill climber over a real high end sprinter. Does this make 
> sense? What would you recommend up front? And in back on the cassette for 
> that matter? 
>
> Thanks!

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[RBW] One-thousand mile ride report on my Rosco Bubbe Road

[Ian A]

Bill,

Once again a deeply inspiring and interesting post. The Rosco looks great 
dressed like that.

Out of curiousity, how challenging is the commute in terms of climbing, winds 
etc.? 

And if you had to choose only one bike as your commuter, which bike would it 
be? 

IanA Alberta Canada where we've already had snow and freezing temperatures and 
I had to drag out the winter bike with spikes, but currently it's very pleasant 
outside. I'm jealous of all you West Coasters.

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Ginz]

Thanks. I get a "Not Found" error.  Does it work for anyone else?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Ginz]

Daniel,

Now, if someone would just make a quality, indexed 8 speed thumbie, we'd be 
in business.

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[RBW] One-thousand mile ride report on my Rosco Bubbe Road

[Lum Gim Fong]

After 1,000 miles does the given bike feel like home and the next one wierd 
until you adjust?

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[RBW] Re: One-thousand mile ride report on my Rosco Bubbe Road

[Bill Lindsay]

Ian asked about how challenging my commute is.  It's 18.5 miles each way.  
Towards work has about 500 feet of climbing and towards home has about 1000 
feet of climbing.  The afternoon winds kick up somewhat and I have to punch 
through that on the way home.  i treat the ride into work as a morning 
meditation.  I get a cup of coffee in Berkeley and drink it while I ride.  
I'm not hammering.  I'm wearing my work clothes.  I don't know if that 
answers your question.

Ian followed up with a 'if you could only commute on one bike, which bike 
would it be?'.  I'm not sure how to answer that, because it seems you are 
after something specific, but I'm not sure what that something is.  I think 
of 'commuter' as a build concept.  I could execute a commuter build concept 
around any number of my bikes.  It just so happens that the Rosco Bubbe is 
a commuter build concept.  It's got an undeniably awesome feature for 
anybody who rides BART, the Lift-a-tube.  Other bikes feel positively 
primitive now that I've lived with a Liftatube.  There are very VERY few 
bikes in the world that would not be made marginally better with the 
inclusion of a lift-a-tube.  Only bikes that need to be feather light, and 
are never lifted would be worse off with a lift-a-tube.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA



On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 11:31:27 AM UTC-7, Ian A wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Once again a deeply inspiring and interesting post. The Rosco looks great 
> dressed like that.
>
> Out of curiousity, how challenging is the commute in terms of climbing, 
> winds etc.? 
>
> And if you had to choose only one bike as your commuter, which bike would 
> it be? 
>
> IanA Alberta Canada where we've already had snow and freezing temperatures 
> and I had to drag out the winter bike with spikes, but currently it's very 
> pleasant outside. I'm jealous of all you West Coasters.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Patrick Moore]

"Also, I read some somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum
in particular, weaken significantly with age."

I'd like to see the article and review the evidence. I myself have heard
nothing said about age as such making metals generally, or aluminum in
particular, less strong. Repeated bending, corrosion, yes, but not age
alone. Anyone?

Come to think of it, Jan in all his riding of vintage machines from 40s and
50s has said nothing about their period cranks being dangerous.

Patrick Moore, who rides old aluminum cranks (and very old aluminum cranks!
8 sp Logic, 5 sp Pro 5 Vis, Viscount/Lambert -- the one with the tapered
socket) and doesn't want to switch.

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Joe Bernard]

Yep. Sign out of Google and back in, it's a problem lately. 

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[RBW] Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Erik Wright]

Bill's post about his Roscoe commuter and praise of the bike's lift-a-tube 
for that type of build got me thinking about alternatives. My commute is 
~11 miles each way with a *big* climb at the end (roughly 6,000 ft*), and I 
have 3 different routes to get up the hill; two on main roads, and one on 
back roads that includes climbing up 100 steps to cut out much of the climb.

When I climb the steps I shoulder the bike, and depending on which bike I'm 
riding that day/what I'm carrying, the comfort level varies.

I've been thinking recently what could make climbing those steps 
easier/more comfortable; one idea is a lift-a-tube, another is some kind of 
shoulder pad thing. I feel like I've seen products and also DIY methods of 
achieving these, but wanted to pick y'alls brain about what's out there/how 
to make something.

1. Thoughts on a DIY lift-a-tube or links to existing products?
2. Thoughts on a DIY shoulder strap/pad or links to existing products?

Erik, Philly


*this is an exaggeration, but holy heck does that climb feel like a doozie 
on some mornings. Great to come down after work, though.

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[RBW] Re: Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Bill Lindsay]

Here are two links:

ETSY store for a nice individual who makes pretty liftatubes by hand and 
sells them 


and:

LINK to a very overwrought review of the utility of a Liftatube 


Bill

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:16:53 PM UTC-7, Erik Wright wrote:
>
> Bill's post about his Roscoe commuter and praise of the bike's lift-a-tube 
> for that type of build got me thinking about alternatives. My commute is 
> ~11 miles each way with a *big* climb at the end (roughly 6,000 ft*), and 
> I have 3 different routes to get up the hill; two on main roads, and one on 
> back roads that includes climbing up 100 steps to cut out much of the climb.
>
> When I climb the steps I shoulder the bike, and depending on which bike 
> I'm riding that day/what I'm carrying, the comfort level varies.
>
> I've been thinking recently what could make climbing those steps 
> easier/more comfortable; one idea is a lift-a-tube, another is some kind of 
> shoulder pad thing. I feel like I've seen products and also DIY methods of 
> achieving these, but wanted to pick y'alls brain about what's out there/how 
> to make something.
>
> 1. Thoughts on a DIY lift-a-tube or links to existing products?
> 2. Thoughts on a DIY shoulder strap/pad or links to existing products?
>
> Erik, Philly
>
>
> *this is an exaggeration, but holy heck does that climb feel like a doozie 
> on some mornings. Great to come down after work, though.
>

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[RBW] WANTED TO BUY SR Apex Crankset

[Charlie]

WANTED TO BUY  SR Apex Touring Crankset - 86BCD 170 arm length  

also wanted SR Apex Left crank arm 170 arm length

WITH OR WITHOUT CHAINRINGS

Charlie Petry
JENNERSVILLE  PA

contact off list : charliepedal (at) verizon (dot) net

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[RBW] Re: One-thousand mile ride report on my Rosco Bubbe Road

[Bill Lindsay]

The artist formerly known as Michael and currently known as Lum Gim Fong 
asked:

"After 1,000 miles does the given bike feel like home and the next one 
wierd until you adjust?"

Nope. My stable is dialed. Each bike has its role and all are dialed for 
me. Every one of them is grab and go. I'm capable of wearing a few 
different pairs of pants and sweaters as well.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 11:57:53 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> After 1,000 miles does the given bike feel like home and the next one 
> wierd until you adjust?

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Bill Lindsay]

Somebody claimed to have read somewhere that aluminum weakens over time.

Patrick Moore asked for more details, and sounds skeptical.

I took my materials science classes a fairly long time ago, but you are 
right to be skeptical, Patrick Moore.  Aluminum most certainly does NOT 
change material properties with just time.  Aluminum does weaken with USE 
(repeated cyclical loading).  You do not need to throw away your 20 year 
old cranks just because they are old.  You have to throw them away because 
you ride an ENORMOUS number of miles and apply MASSIVE torque to them.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:07:57 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> "Also, I read some somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum 
> in particular, weaken significantly with age."
>
> I'd like to see the article and review the evidence. I myself have heard 
> nothing said about age as such making metals generally, or aluminum in 
> particular, less strong. Repeated bending, corrosion, yes, but not age 
> alone. Anyone?
>
> Come to think of it, Jan in all his riding of vintage machines from 40s 
> and 50s has said nothing about their period cranks being dangerous.
>
> Patrick Moore, who rides old aluminum cranks (and very old aluminum 
> cranks! 8 sp Logic, 5 sp Pro 5 Vis, Viscount/Lambert -- the one with the 
> tapered socket) and doesn't want to switch.
>

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[RBW] Re: Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Erik Wright]

Woof, shoulda used the search function. Thanks Bill.

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 3:35:18 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Here are two links:
>
> ETSY store for a nice individual who makes pretty liftatubes by hand and 
> sells them 
> 
>
> and:
>
> LINK to a very overwrought review of the utility of a Liftatube 
> 
>
> Bill
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:16:53 PM UTC-7, Erik Wright wrote:
>>
>> Bill's post about his Roscoe commuter and praise of the bike's 
>> lift-a-tube for that type of build got me thinking about alternatives. My 
>> commute is ~11 miles each way with a *big* climb at the end (roughly 
>> 6,000 ft*), and I have 3 different routes to get up the hill; two on main 
>> roads, and one on back roads that includes climbing up 100 steps to cut out 
>> much of the climb.
>>
>> When I climb the steps I shoulder the bike, and depending on which bike 
>> I'm riding that day/what I'm carrying, the comfort level varies.
>>
>> I've been thinking recently what could make climbing those steps 
>> easier/more comfortable; one idea is a lift-a-tube, another is some kind of 
>> shoulder pad thing. I feel like I've seen products and also DIY methods of 
>> achieving these, but wanted to pick y'alls brain about what's out there/how 
>> to make something.
>>
>> 1. Thoughts on a DIY lift-a-tube or links to existing products?
>> 2. Thoughts on a DIY shoulder strap/pad or links to existing products?
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>>
>>
>> *this is an exaggeration, but holy heck does that climb feel like a 
>> doozie on some mornings. Great to come down after work, though.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter

[Kainalu V.]

I've got a hot torch in Brooklyn! Cantis all around...
Not that owning a torch qualifies me to be adding canti posts, but what I 
lack in experience, I lack in experience!
If my Rosco didn't already have them, it would soon, and I'd have 
experience.
-Kai
BKNY


On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 2:14:44 PM UTC-4, A. Nostuh wrote:
>
> I don't know about you Anton, but I'm really considering adding some canti 
> posts to my Chevvy for more clearance. 
>
> That would be my ideal Carriage Bike™

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Kainalu V.]

I can't see the picture either, and I'm getting tired of signing out and in 
again, but what struck me from what I've seen in the past is that the 
shifter mount might allow for some rotation. This would be a great 
ergonomic leap for bikekind. The Sturmey-Archer mounts do it to an extent, 
but they kinda stink outside of that.
Hope that happens
-Kai
BKNY

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 1:12:04 PM UTC-4, Daniel M wrote:
>
> > Has anyone seen a spy photo or drawing of the Silver 2 concept?
>
> From the BLUG some time ago, assuming it displays correctly:
>
> Daniel "I think I just bottom-posted" M
> Berkeley, CA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Justin, Oakland]

Well if your legs are as heavy as Jan says then you’ll have to get new cranks 
soon Billl!

-J

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Bill Lindsay]

I carry spare crank arms in my jersey pockets* .  

Bill "thunder-thighs" Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

*I do not actually carry spare crank arms in my jersey pockets, or anywhere 
else for that matter

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 2:26:26 PM UTC-7, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> Well if your legs are as heavy as Jan says then you’ll have to get new 
> cranks soon Billl! 
>
> -J

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Garth]

   There's these custom made cranks from High Sierra Cycle Center. These 
guys make the custom cranks for Zinn. 

http://www.hscycle.com/Pages/customcrankset.html

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Bill Lindsay]

I advise you rethink this. The Compass Rene Herse is the best crankset for 
your build, in my opinion.  

Another important distinction you did not make in this thread, but you did 
make elsewhere is that this build will be 11-speed Shimano and your Front 
Shifting will be STI.  That totally eliminates most vintage choices.  If 
you expect your front shifting to be "perfect", or even "very good", you 
will want a crankset that was made with 11-speed front indexing in mind.  
No Sugino XD2, no vintage anything.  I think the latest White Industries 
VBC models are good with 11-speed front indexing.  Compass Rene Herse 
definitely are.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

[disclaimer] - I seriously dislike front index shifting in all forms.   

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:03:04 AM UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> Hi Steve. 
>
> I’ve mostly written it off because I feel its aesthetic speaks to a 
> different era than the one guiding me in this build. Also, and admittedly I 
> have no real knowledge to base this on, I feel like a 5 bolt pattern is 
> preferable to the 3 bolt pattern that the RH uses. 
>
>   

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[Ginz]

When using the full sized silver shifter, is it too long and create too much 
leverage? A shorter lever is best for thumbs? For some reason that surprises 
me. 

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'll share my thoughts on the White Industries VBC, of which I have two 
pairs.

The pros: Pretty, not crazy expensive, seems strong and stiff enough for 
mortals like me (i.e., doesn't rub the front D cage when hoofing it), MUSA 
(if important).
The cons: uses proprietary lockring and chainrings, polished finish 
requires upkeep or it'll tarnish with sweat.
The funny: one of the flat polished surfaces, of which this crank has many, 
once caught the sun just right that I was flashed with each revolution. 
Unfortunately, this was on a long multi-mile straight so I couldn't escape 
it for a bit. Yeah, you probably won't encounter this too much…

Given the chance, I'll purchase it again. The proprietary lockring isn't 
too expensive, and is a one-time cost. The proprietary chainrings seem to 
wear excellently, and are noticeably more durable than the Sugino 
chainrings that came on my XD-600 (granted, the WI chainrings cost as much 
a complete XD-600 crank). I also did not suffer from any runout issues that 
were reported for the Compass cranks, even if the chainrings are mounted in 
such a way that wobble is magnified.

Given your directive of building up your Roadeo as a go-fast bike, you 
should really first consider what kind of gearing you'll like. A lot of 
nice cranks are 130mm or 110mm BCD only, and this will limit your lower 
chainring size to 39T and 34T respectively. Since it's a go-fast, and 
presumably, you may want a cassette with fairly small jumps, the choice of 
crank can come into play. Furthermore, I would also try to go with a double 
front, as that will simplify shifting, especially for a Shimano STI.

Good luck with your build!


On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 5:23:53 AM UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
>
> I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two 
> cranksets currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of, 
> that is. I’d love to hear of others if you know of any. 
>
>
>
>1. White Industries VBC.  
>
>
> This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I 
> may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker. 
>
>
>
>1. DaVinci.  
>
>
> I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s 
> US made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something 
> different for the Roadeo, though. 
>
>
> TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the 
> DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO 
> cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice 
> NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is. 
> First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a 
> 11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some 
> somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular, 
> weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would 
> be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400 
> range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as 
> robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t? 
>
>
> Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance 
> for all of your advice. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Patrick Moore]

One option, should you (David) set your eye on a pretty 130 bcd crank: you
can always customize your cassette to get the gearing you want. When I
owned my Ram, I first set it up with a 44/30 (old aluminum crank!!) and
something like a 14-23 7 speed; then I fell in love with and had a brief
but glorious affair with a Dura Ace 7410 crank, which I accommodated with a
52/38 X 16-26 or so 9 speed, giving much the same gaps and range. Of
course, you can tailor the gaps and range to your taste.

Miche sells outer cogs that fit on Shimano hubs as big as 16 t.

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 4:20 PM Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
wrote:

> I'll share my thoughts on the White Industries VBC, of which I have two
> pairs.
>
> The pros: Pretty, not crazy expensive, seems strong and stiff enough for
> mortals like me (i.e., doesn't rub the front D cage when hoofing it), MUSA
> (if important).
> The cons: uses proprietary lockring and chainrings, polished finish
> requires upkeep or it'll tarnish with sweat.
> The funny: one of the flat polished surfaces, of which this crank has
> many, once caught the sun just right that I was flashed with each
> revolution. Unfortunately, this was on a long multi-mile straight so I
> couldn't escape it for a bit. Yeah, you probably won't encounter this too
> much…
>
> Given the chance, I'll purchase it again. The proprietary lockring isn't
> too expensive, and is a one-time cost. The proprietary chainrings seem to
> wear excellently, and are noticeably more durable than the Sugino
> chainrings that came on my XD-600 (granted, the WI chainrings cost as much
> a complete XD-600 crank). I also did not suffer from any runout issues that
> were reported for the Compass cranks, even if the chainrings are mounted in
> such a way that wobble is magnified.
>
> Given your directive of building up your Roadeo as a go-fast bike, you
> should really first consider what kind of gearing you'll like. A lot of
> nice cranks are 130mm or 110mm BCD only, and this will limit your lower
> chainring size to 39T and 34T respectively. Since it's a go-fast, and
> presumably, you may want a cassette with fairly small jumps, the choice of
> crank can come into play. Furthermore, I would also try to go with a double
> front, as that will simplify shifting, especially for a Shimano STI.
>
> Good luck with your build!
>
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 5:23:53 AM UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
>>
>> I’m really unsure about this component choice. There are only two
>> cranksets currently in production that I’m considering. That I know of,
>> that is. I’d love to hear of others if you know of any.
>>
>>
>>
>>1. White Industries VBC.
>>
>>
>> This is the one I’d like to choose, but their rings only come in black. I
>> may change my mind, but this is probably a deal breaker.
>>
>>
>>
>>1. DaVinci.
>>
>>
>> I have this crank on another bike. I really like its looks and that it’s
>> US made. I’ve mounted French made TA rings to it. I would like something
>> different for the Roadeo, though.
>>
>>
>> TA makes a couple of good looking cranks, but none I’d choose over the
>> DaVinci, I don’t think. And I’m not really interested in the Compass of VO
>> cranks. So I’m hoping someone might have another idea. I thought a nice
>> NOS Dura Ave crank would look great, but I’m not sure how smart this is.
>> First, I would imagine the stock rings would not be the best choice for a
>> 11sp drivetrain. Am I correct in this thinking? Also, I read some
>> somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and aluminum in particular,
>> weaken significantly with age. I’m guessing the vintage crank I’d buy would
>> be from the 80’s? Maybe 90’s? I’ve seen a couple for sale in the $400
>> range, but am nervous about investing so much in a set that might not be as
>> robust as I’d want it. Am I worrying about something I shouldn’t?
>>
>>
>> Again, thanks so much for helping with this build. And thanks in advance
>> for all of your advice.
>>
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[RBW] Re: Stronglight Fenders

[jandrews]

Hi Cody
No, I haven't pulled the trigger yet on the Stronglight fenders,.
You first!
Jason

On Tuesday, October 23, 2018 at 10:34:56 PM UTC-4, Cody Bartz wrote:
>
> Jandrews did you ever end up purchasing the Stronglight fenders? I am 
> really leaning on getting them for my Atlantis. If so, what is your 
> experience and thoughts on them?
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Protovelo - complete bike 57.5cm

[jandrews]

Hello bunch, 
After receiving email interest and inquiries, I still have not sold the 
Protovelo.
I'm dropping the price $100 to $1400 including shipping (in 48 states)  
Thank you
Jason

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018 at 6:41:12 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> That there is one cute bike.  APPROVE.  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Wednesday, October 17, 2018 at 10:32:34 AM UTC-7, jandrews wrote:
>>
>> Hello Group…
>>
>> I’m reposting this Protovelo for sale after happily not selling it last 
>> year.  It was a terrific performer this summer but I still would like to 
>> sell it.  I’m moving into a new place and majorly need to downsize plus my 
>> riding is less and less roady. 
>>
>>
>> 57.5cm Protovelo road bike for sale:
>>
>>
>> [image: PV26.JPG]
>>
>>
>>
>> This is a fun, light and nimble bike looking for a new home. 
>>
>>
>> The frame is somewhat of an odd duck. I am not sure what exactly this 
>> frame was a prototype for, although a current Riv employee suggested it 
>> could've been geometry testing for the San Marcos with thinner tubing.
>>
>>
>> I purchased it from Kevin at Riv in about 2012.  I was interested in 
>> buying a Roadeo at the time and they posted this frameset and I purchased 
>> it instead. 
>>
>>
>> I believe that it has a Roadeo fork from Toyo in JP.   It’s a slender, 
>> nicely curved fork with cream dropouts and no mounting bosses mid-fork.  
>> (the seat stays have typical Riv bosses, 2 at the dropouts and one mid-stay 
>> and one by the seat cluster)
>>
>> This frameset has Hilborne headtube lugs and a Homer bottom bracket 
>> shell.  Also, odd-duckishly, the front fork takes a medium-reach caliper 
>> and the rear brake is a long-reach.  I believe the frame was U.S. made.  
>> Also, I believe the color is "RBW Blue".
>>
>> The sizing was listed as 57.5cm and that’s the measurement for both the 
>> seat tube and the top tube.
>>
>> Rear spacing is 130mm.
>>
>>
>> My PBH is 84.5 and this bike was just a smidge big for me but never ever 
>> a real issue.  When I'm standing with feet firmly on the ground the top 
>> tube is right up there but workable.
>>
>> The reach on this bike is great compared to my too-long top tube 
>> first-generation Hillborne which is 56/59.
>>
>>
>> I built this bike up as a go-fast road bike and while it served that 
>> purpose very well, that’s not the type of riding I really do.  I ride my 
>> much heavier Hillborne more or my off-road singlespeed.
>>
>>
>> The wheels are very nice, built by Anthony King.  - White Industries T11 
>> polished 28h laced to IRD “Cadence” lightweight rims..  Rear is “VSR” or 
>> offset.  Both have wheelsmith spokes. (42 Wheelsmith XL14 2.0/1.5/2.0 
>>  Silver Spoke w/  Brass Nipples & 14 Wheelsmith DB14 2.0/1.7/2.0 Silver 
>> Spoke w/ Silver Brass Nipples)
>>
>>
>> Tires are Jack Brown Greens with plenty of life left
>>
>>
>> Cream longboard fenders
>>
>>
>> SRAM Apex mini-group - Front and Rear Derailleurs as well as a SRAM 
>> cassette (11-32 10spd) & chain and Apex “double tap” shifter/levers
>>
>>
>> Crankset - NOS (*when I installed it*) - 170mm Sugino AT with 
>> Specialities TA “Syrius” 50/34 10 speed chainrings  {122.5 UN52 bb)
>>
>>
>> Bars are Mark’s “Dream Bar” in heat treated 46cm by Nitto.
>>
>> Stem is 9cm or 10cm Tech Deluxe...I'll check.
>>
>> Wrapped in black Newbaums.
>>
>>
>> Headset is FSA that Riv uses.
>>
>>
>> Brakes - Rear Tektro R559, Front Tektro R538
>>
>>
>> Seatpost - Thomson “Elite” , black - no offset.
>>
>>
>> CLEARANCE: The bike is running JB greens with longboard fenders.  I think 
>> it would probably run Barlow Pass 38's without a problem, but I haven't 
>> tested that.  After doing some research by the numbers, I believe that 
>> Paul Racers (not M's) would handle the difference of the long reach in the 
>> back and med reach in the front and allow for a little more clearance 
>> ...but I haven't personally tested that.
>>
>>
>> Issues:  {pics attached for all this}
>>
>> There are few small chips in the paint. , the most offensive being on the 
>> downtube just below the water bottle cage.  There is also a small one on 
>> the top tube as well as a couple small ones on the inside of the non-drive 
>> side chain stay and some rash along drive-side seat stay.  Most of this was 
>> received from being in my Thule car bike carrier and being rubbed my 
>> friends bike next to it.
>>
>> I've detailed these chips in the photo gallery 
>>
>>
>> Selling the bike for $1500 including Bike Flights shipping
>>
>> I'm in the Hudson Valley of Upstate New York but can easily meet in NYC 
>> with the bike.
>>
>> will discount slightly for a local sale.
>>
>>
>> Please know that when I say "I believe", I'm giving you my honest 
>> thought process based on speaking to employees at RBW and being a good 
>> steward of the bike for the past 6 or so years, but I can't confirm those 
>> statements 100% and I may be mistaken.
>>
>>
>> Many detailed photos can be seen at this link:  Sorry for poor 
>> photography

Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Patrick Moore]

That indeed would be the theoretical reason; not age. Good point.

Next question: is there any useful and accurate *practical* guidance --
rules of thumb -- for retiring aluminum cranks, seatposts, bars, stems, and
so forth?

Bills' reply reminds me of Grant's long-ago and wonderful metaphor:
"Dolphin-like thighs" -- in contrast to sylph-like arms.

Patrick Moore, who very strangely didn't think for a minute about the
danger of riding his (What? I myself have owned them at least 15 years, and
I got them ... 2nd hand? 3d hand? 4th or 5th hand? Pro 5 Vis cranks) during
this afternoon's very pleasant fall ride.

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 1:48 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Somebody claimed to have read somewhere that aluminum weakens over time.
>
> Patrick Moore asked for more details, and sounds skeptical.
>
> I took my materials science classes a fairly long time ago, but you are
> right to be skeptical, Patrick Moore.  Aluminum most certainly does NOT
> change material properties with just time.  Aluminum does weaken with USE
> (repeated cyclical loading).  You do not need to throw away your 20 year
> old cranks just because they are old.  You have to throw them away because
> you ride an ENORMOUS number of miles and apply MASSIVE torque to them.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:07:57 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> "Also, I read some somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and
>> aluminum in particular, weaken significantly with age."
>>
>> I'd like to see the article and review the evidence. I myself have heard
>> nothing said about age as such making metals generally, or aluminum in
>> particular, less strong. Repeated bending, corrosion, yes, but not age
>> alone. Anyone?
>>
>> Come to think of it, Jan in all his riding of vintage machines from 40s
>> and 50s has said nothing about their period cranks being dangerous.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who rides old aluminum cranks (and very old aluminum
>> cranks! 8 sp Logic, 5 sp Pro 5 Vis, Viscount/Lambert -- the one with the
>> tapered socket) and doesn't want to switch.
>>
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[RBW] Re: One-thousand mile ride report on my Rosco Bubbe Road

[Ian A]

Thanks for the response Bill and the extra info about the commute. Again, 
inspiring stuff. My question regarding choosing only one bike was meant to 
pertain to the bikes in your current fleet, but I feel you answered that 
question within your answer.

Keep the ride reports coming!

IanA 

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[RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter

[lambbo]

I mean, my Paul center pulls work SO well, but...it would be super fun to go 
canti...listen:

I have a spare Cheviot fork - it's a LITTLE bent, barely noticeable but it 
knocked my brake pads into the rubber of my tire (popped the tire) so it's 
functional but not with center pulls. 
Should we do an experiment?  Kai, want to try it? Sounds really good to me. 

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[RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

['Eamon Nordquist' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Damn, that's a proper looking Atlantis. Luckily, it's too small for me!

Eamon

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[RBW] Re: Blahg Post Ethiopian Shoes

[Ash]

Congrats Ed!  

Pics?

Lace is the only nitpick I had with my shoes. Replaced them the second day.



On Wednesday, 24 October 2018 17:51:40 UTC-7, Ed Carolipio wrote:
>
> Adding another data point: I got mine today (10/24) after ordering on 
> 7/31, which gives credence to the 10-12 weeks-rather-than-days theory.
>
> I got an UrbanRunner in my typical size. I usually wear "W" or "E" and 
> these fit fine so maybe not meant for those with narrower feet. Very cushy 
> out of the box - doesn't feel like it needs a break in period - and 
> definitely has lots of personality for a casual shoe. The rubber band laces 
> are weird, though, so I'll probably swap those out for traditional laces.
>
> --Ed C.
>
> On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 3:05:28 AM UTC-7, Jay LePree wrote:
>>
>> Hi all:
>>
>> My shoes are due to ship October 10.  I truly believe that there was a 
>> typo in order receipt notification.  The 10 to 12 days was meant to say 10 
>> to 12 weeks.  If they are making the shoes from the basics, including 
>> spinning the material to create them, 10 to 12 days seems unrealistic.  
>> Looking at the time frames of delivery, 10 to 12 weeks seems more 
>> realistic.  I hope everyone enjoys their shoes.  
>>
>> Jay "Shoe man" LePree
>> Demarest, NJ
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[David Wadstrup]

This is all so much to think about thank you everyone.  I'm 
particularly appreciative of the run down on gearing.  You're right, this 
is something the could determine crank choice, and so is something I should 
think about a little more deeply before pulling the trigger.

I really wish I could remember where I read that bit about aluminum 
weakening over age.  I feel like it had to be a RR issue somewhere in the 
mid-20s.  Regardless, sounds like it's not something to fret over.  But it 
also sounds like going vintage would contradict my desire for a 11sp STI 
drivetrain.  Unless, that is, I was to swap out the rings it came with.

I've never heard of the High Sierra cranks.  They look great.  Thanks for 
the link.

Sounds like the WI VBC might be the way to go should I find myself able to 
deal with the black rings.  





On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:28:50 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That indeed would be the theoretical reason; not age. Good point.
>
> Next question: is there any useful and accurate *practical* guidance -- 
> rules of thumb -- for retiring aluminum cranks, seatposts, bars, stems, and 
> so forth?
>
> Bills' reply reminds me of Grant's long-ago and wonderful metaphor: 
> "Dolphin-like thighs" -- in contrast to sylph-like arms.
>
> Patrick Moore, who very strangely didn't think for a minute about the 
> danger of riding his (What? I myself have owned them at least 15 years, and 
> I got them ... 2nd hand? 3d hand? 4th or 5th hand? Pro 5 Vis cranks) during 
> this afternoon's very pleasant fall ride.
>
> On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 1:48 PM Bill Lindsay  > wrote:
>
>> Somebody claimed to have read somewhere that aluminum weakens over time.
>>
>> Patrick Moore asked for more details, and sounds skeptical.
>>
>> I took my materials science classes a fairly long time ago, but you are 
>> right to be skeptical, Patrick Moore.  Aluminum most certainly does NOT 
>> change material properties with just time.  Aluminum does weaken with USE 
>> (repeated cyclical loading).  You do not need to throw away your 20 year 
>> old cranks just because they are old.  You have to throw them away because 
>> you ride an ENORMOUS number of miles and apply MASSIVE torque to them.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 12:07:57 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> "Also, I read some somewhere(maybe a Riv Reader) that metals, and 
>>> aluminum in particular, weaken significantly with age."
>>>
>>> I'd like to see the article and review the evidence. I myself have heard 
>>> nothing said about age as such making metals generally, or aluminum in 
>>> particular, less strong. Repeated bending, corrosion, yes, but not age 
>>> alone. Anyone?
>>>
>>> Come to think of it, Jan in all his riding of vintage machines from 40s 
>>> and 50s has said nothing about their period cranks being dangerous.
>>>
>>> Patrick Moore, who rides old aluminum cranks (and very old aluminum 
>>> cranks! 8 sp Logic, 5 sp Pro 5 Vis, Viscount/Lambert -- the one with the 
>>> tapered socket) and doesn't want to switch.
>>>
>> -- 
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>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Alternatives to lift-a-tube

[Surlyprof]

These are very nicely made by a nice little company in Oregon.
https://walnutstudiolo.com/collections/bicycle-accessories/products/bicycle-frame-handle-the-little-lifter

They also have a portage strap but I haven’t used it.
https://walnutstudiolo.com/collections/bicycle-accessories/products/portage-strap-bicycle-carrying-strap


John

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[dougP]

Tim:

That looks right.  My '03 58 cm. 700c wheels, is listed at 45.5 cm, & 
that's what it measures.  The old 56 cm, 26" wheels, is listed at 44, so 
yours appears to be an interim design.  I'm guessing they were playing 
around with extending chainstays but didn't want to make a big deal out of 
it.  I have a recollection that Roman told me the 56 cm (650B) that I test 
rode had several improvements and longer chainstays was perhaps one of 
them.  I remember the bike had a more plush ride than my 58, and it had 
some tires that were nothing special (Kenda maybe?), so it wasn't the 
tires.  

Your slightly longer chainstays plus those cushy tires should make for a 
super plush ride.  The person who snags this one is going to a happy 
camper.  There were a few people who were put off by the LWB look.  Here's 
a chance to get a Waterford built Atlantis at a MIT price.  

Just saw this disclaimer at the bottom of the Sizing & Geometry page (bold 
added by me):

*This table only applies to current models in May 2018. *Models changed 
over the years, so if your older frame doesn't match this chart, that's 
why. It's not off-spec,* it's just an older style. Don't get hung up on the 
numbers though. Go ride your bike!

dougP

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 1:47:22 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> Here's a pic of a tape along the chainstay of my 2014 56cm Atlantis.
> [image: image.png]
> I'm not sure if I'm measuring that right, but 18" converts to 45.72cm.
>
> Tim
>
> On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 7:15 AM RichS > 
> wrote:
>
>> My 2014 Atlantis (size 53) has 46cm chain stays.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 8:12:37 PM UTC-4, dougP wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim:
>>>
>>> Is that the interim version with the slightly longer chainstays?  
>>> Waterford made some for Rivendell with chainstays longer than the Toyo and 
>>> shorter than the current LWB model.  IIRC, they were only a couple of 
>>> centimeters longer.  I rode one of those & the improvement in ride quality 
>>> was noticeable from my 58 cm Atlantis (45.5 cm).  
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 24, 2018 at 12:41:35 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield 
>>> wrote:

 I didn't want to do this, but the Atlantis Waterford demo I purchased 
 earlier this year is up for sale.
 https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6731696265.html

 I'm a an hour and a half to two hours north of Seattle in Anacortes.

 I would prefer to sell it local as I have never packed nor shipped a 
 bike.  But, if someone wants it shipped, that might still be possible.  
 I'm 
 not sure which LBS might be okay for doing this.  If you can find and make 
 arrangements with one of them, I can drop it off there.  I'm just not 
 comfortable being responsible for that myself.

 If you have any questions, please let me know.

 Thanks.

 Tim

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[RBW] Re: Silver 2 thumb shifters on the Blahg

[dougP]

I think Rivendell posted something about rotation.  These are quite similar 
to an old Suntour MTB shifter but updated.  I have some old Suntours, not 
as elegant looking as this, that can be rotated to several positions.  It's 
quite useful. I can see that with the variety of handlebars that feature 
could help set-up.  

Plus these look very cool.

dougP

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 2:16:52 PM UTC-7, Kainalu V. wrote:
>
> I can't see the picture either, and I'm getting tired of signing out and 
> in again, but what struck me from what I've seen in the past is that the 
> shifter mount might allow for some rotation. This would be a great 
> ergonomic leap for bikekind. The Sturmey-Archer mounts do it to an extent, 
> but they kinda stink outside of that.
> Hope that happens
> -Kai
> BKNY
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 1:12:04 PM UTC-4, Daniel M wrote:
>>
>> > Has anyone seen a spy photo or drawing of the Silver 2 concept?
>>
>> From the BLUG some time ago, assuming it displays correctly:
>>
>> Daniel "I think I just bottom-posted" M
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

['Tony McG' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I tore the bike down to the frame for a thorough cleaning and a Frame Saver 
treatment. I removed the kickstand because I was tired of the bike falling 
over all of the time. I then swapped the Sugino triple and Microshift FD 
for an IRD Lobo 46/30 with a Shimano CX-70 FD, and replaced the Noodle with 
a 46 cm Soba bar that was on my Atlantis. It now weighs 24.5 lbs. without 
the pump and seat bag.

Soma San Marcos
59
26.5# with kickstand, frame pump, and Brand V seat bag
Sugino triple crankset
9-speed
Tektro side-pull brakes
Cane Creek levers
Shimano bar-ends
Selle Anatomico Titantico-X
Noodle bars
Nitto stem
Nitto seatpost
Shimano XT spd pedals
Velocity Synergy rims 32-spoke
Shimano 105 hubs
Jack Brown Blue 
King SS bottle cages
bell, Garmin mount, and Newbaum's cloth tape


On Sunday, August 3, 2014 at 3:04:20 PM UTC-5, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Since there has been curiosity about peoples' complete bikes' and/or 
> frames' weights, I figured it would be fun to reveal how much our Rivbikes 
> weigh.
>  
> Would be informative to know:
> 1. Model
> 2. Framesize
> 3. Weight of complete build, or your frameset. 
> (Including fenders/bottlecages/racks/lights/bells is ok since 
> dismantle-ization would be unfair to expect of a complete build. But no 
> bags/bottles on board, please).
> 4. Build list, if you feel up to all that typing. Would be fun to see what 
> everyone is hanging on their Rivs anyway. But that is a lot to ask and not 
> expected.
>  
> I would start, but I have to go home and weight the bikes first.
> So I will try to report back soon with my Sam and Bleriot weights.
>  
> And if you guys feel strongly about this being inappropriate for 
> Riv-culture, please delete the thread, but don't run me outta the forum on 
> a rail. This is all intended in good fun and info-purposes.
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Ride Bikes, Shoot Film

[James Davis]

“I’m looking to scratch a pair of itches on this trip:

Do more creative work with my hands.
Make photographs that have a distinct, old look and feel to them.”


Yes, I really agree with this thought of his in the article. What A
wonderful way to slow down. I celebrated you sharing this article by
stopping a bunch on my commute today to shoot 35mm film and phone photos.
It increased my enjoyment of riding exponentially! Thanks!

James

On Wed, Oct 24, 2018 at 7:43 AM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Here’s someone who has taken ride bikes/shoot film to the next level,
> shooting hand-cut film in an old Speed Graphic with a homemade(!) lens:
>
> http://bicycletimesmag.com/ride-slow-take-photos/
>
> My hat is off to him ...
>
> --Eric N
>
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[RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Max S]

Tim, a friend may be interested. What’s the standover with those tires? 

- Max “danger, Will Robinson, danger” in A2

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Re: [RBW] Re: My Big Green Tractor

[tc]

Wow, that is usefulness defined!  My son is gunning for a sunfish, which can be 
hauled by a cute little trailer.  How I wish I didn’t have highways to traverse 
to get to the lake nearby!

Thanks,
Tom

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Re: [RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Max S]

Thanks, Tim. My friend - he’s about 5’10”, short legs long torso type (I’m 
probably the opposite), so 32” SO might be cutting it close... 

- Max “doc, this is for a friend” in A2

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Re: [RBW] Finally a Rivendell Rider, Roadini done!

[David Hays]

Very nice build.
So did you get a motorcycle as well?

> On Oct 25, 2018, at 8:28 PM, Daniel D.  wrote:
> 
> When I was waiting on the initial Roadini pre-order, got interested in 
> motorcycles.  Roadini frame came, had all the parts and my interests were 
> elsewhere for the past ~year.  But finally got around to it.  Rode around the 
> neighborhood, seems to be exactly what I was seeking when I ordered.  
> In-between my touring tank, a Novara Randonee, and my twitchy road bike , a 
> scott S30.  My first build from a frame...
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Build List
> Electrical tape for chainstay protector, forgot to order...
> 
> Rivendell S!lver  170mm wide/low crankset 
> Ultegra CX70 front derailleur
> M952 xt rear derailleur   
> KMC 9 Speed Chain 
> XT M770 9 Speed 11-34 MTB Cassette
> 
> Microshift  2/3-9 speed bar end shifters
> 
> Trp RRL SL brake levers 
> TRP - RG957 brake calipers
>   
> Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX Tire 700x33
> Fulcrum Cross Wheelset I had lying around
> 
> nitto B-132 randonneur handlebars
> Nitto NTC-DX Technomic Deluxe Stem 100mm  
> NITTO NJ-SP72 Jaguar seatpost, no seatpost included for me :>(
> 
> Brooks B17 Select
> 
> Yokozuna reaction cable and housing set
> Fizik Superlight Classic Bar Tape metallic blue, 
> 
> to be installed after I weigh it :p
> King Iris cages
> crane e-ne copper bell
> 
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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Brian Campbell]

Here is a picture. I have taken the rear rack off and am now running 35mm 
Compass EL tires vs. the 38mm in the pcture




On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 12:55:24 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> My 61cm AHH 26.2lbs (hanging digital scale)
>
> 61cm Frame
> 32/32 Ultegra Hub/ Open Pro Wheel set
> 12-30 10 speed cassette
> Ultegra Long cage RD
> Shimano FX70 FD
> IRD Bar end Shifters w/ riv pods
> 46cm Noodle Bars 
> 9cm Nitto Pearl stem
> Thomson Elite seatpost
> Brooks Ti b17 special
> Late 80's Shinano XT crankset w/TA rings 46/36/26
> Compass Barlow Pass Tires EL
> VO 50mm snakeskin fenders
> Schmidt Edelux headlight
> Velo Lumino tailight
>
>

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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Brian Campbell]

This custom from 2001 (62cm) weighs in at 22l lbs.



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Re: [RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[dougP]

Max:

Have your friend do the PBH measurement & check it out on the fit chart.  
I'm 5'10" with a PBH of 85 & ride a 58 cm.  

dougP, 
(encouraging Atlantis riders since 2011)

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:17:40 PM UTC-7, Max S wrote:
>
> Thanks, Tim. My friend - he’s about 5’10”, short legs long torso type (I’m 
> probably the opposite), so 32” SO might be cutting it close... 
>
> - Max “doc, this is for a friend” in A2

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Re: [RBW] Finally a Rivendell Rider, Roadini done!

[Daniel D.]

Yup about a year ago.  Loving it...

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:46:44 PM UTC-7, David Hays wrote:
>
> Very nice build.
> So did you get a motorcycle as well?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Tim Butterfield]

I’m 5’ 10” also.

Tim

On Thu, Oct 25, 2018 at 7:19 PM dougP  wrote:

> Max:
>
> Have your friend do the PBH measurement & check it out on the fit chart.
> I'm 5'10" with a PBH of 85 & ride a 58 cm.
>
> dougP,
> (encouraging Atlantis riders since 2011)
>
> On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 6:17:40 PM UTC-7, Max S wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, Tim. My friend - he’s about 5’10”, short legs long torso type
>> (I’m probably the opposite), so 32” SO might be cutting it close...
>>
>> - Max “doc, this is for a friend” in A2
>
> --
Sent from my IDevice

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[RBW] WTB: Clem Smith L 52 Grilver

[Doug H.]

Let me know if you have one to sell. Thanks. 
Doug in Athens, GA

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Re: [RBW] FS: 2014 Atlantis 56cm demo

[Drw]

Also 5’10, ride a 56 and could go 58 pretty easily.  I wouldnt worry about that 
stand over at all. 

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[RBW] Re: Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[ascpgh]

I still have an XC-Pro 7 speed right (rear) thumb shifter, NOS, that has 
that ghost 8th position and will operate Shimano 8 speed. Not a set, but 
dreams can come true.

Andy Cheatham 
Pittsburgh

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 2:47:08 PM UTC-4, Ginz wrote:
>
> Daniel,
>
> Now, if someone would just make a quality, indexed 8 speed thumbie, we'd 
> be in business.
>
>

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[RBW] FS: 54cm Rambouillet - $1,300

[Mike K.]

Pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fJcLeXudQ5gKt4Ad9

$1,300 plus shipping. I’ll have a shop in town pack it and set up delivery via 
bike flights. Should be about $150ish for CONUS. 

Size/ ST: 54cm
TT: 55cm
Crank: Ultegra 6503 triple, 172.5, 52-42-30
FD: Ultegra 6503
RD: Deore M591 9sp rd
11-32 9sp cassette 
Tektro R539 sidepull brakes
Shimano bar ends. Indexing works well. 
Nitto dirt drop stem
Gary 2 bars with shimano hood levers and Tektro interrupters to brake from the 
flats. 
Front wheel is shimano hub with Sunrim CR18 36h
Rear is Deore hub to Mavic A319 36h
Seat post is a Cambio Rino from an old Medici
No seat or pedals included

Been a good ride the last few years. Just time to move on and expand my cycling 
horizons. Let me know if you have any questions!

- Mike in ATX

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Re: [RBW] Finally a Rivendell Rider, Roadini done!

[Joe Bernard]

Nice Roadini, I love mine. 
We need to see the motorcycle!

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[RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter

[Kainalu V.]

Absolutely! I'll track down some posts. And once that's done...

..it's on to the Roadini!

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, October 25, 2018 at 4:00:19 PM UTC-7, David Wadstrup wrote:
 

> Sounds like the WI VBC might be the way to go should I find myself able to 
> deal with the black rings.  
>

Black chainrings aren't all bad. They mask the chain grease and make filthy 
drivetrains look presentable. :)

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Re: [RBW] Help me build my Roadeo, Part 2, CRANKSET

[Bill Schairer]

I know that people do break cranks but I have never ever understood how?  It 
just seems like there lots of other things that should fail before the crank 
would assuming everything is operating at all less than totally frozen.  In any 
case, I’m pretty darn sure that I don’t have the strenght to break a crank 
under any circumstances so it is not something I worry about.  Handlebars I can 
imagine but I’m still riding with 40 year old bars.

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