Re: [RBW] Deer-bike collision

[Nick Payne]

Here it's the kangaroos you have to worry about: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eC0UF-hDKGw.

Whenever I see a kangaroo anywhere near while out riding - I usually see 
them several times a week - I go absolutely dead slow until I'm sure the 
kangaroo is a reasonable distance away and heading in the other direction. 
Several of my friends have been taken out by kangaroos or wallabies while 
out riding. They (the animals, that is) are pretty erratic, and can turn 
very sharply - the engineers from Volvo in charge of their animal collision 
avoidance system spent quite a while at the local Tidbinbilla Nature 
Reserve a few years ago analysing kangaroos, but AFAIK they have not 
managed to adapt their software that works with moose, cows, etc to 
successfully cope with kangaroos: 
https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2017/07/engineers-testing-volvo-s-driverless-technology-have-hit-a-problem-kangaroos/
.

Nick Payne
Canberra

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Re: [RBW] Deer-bike collision

[DavidP]

Wow - close call! Glad to hear you didn't go down! (And I can't help but 
wonder if something can't be said for the stability of the Roadini.)

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 5:17:46 PM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm pretty sure the deer that hit me weighs less than a car. Hopefully I 
> won't be a disaster tomorrow.
>
> On Sun, Apr 30, 2023, 13:45 Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> I'm glad your wheels stayed down and hope that you are not too sore in a 
>> day or two. I was knocked over by a right-turning car at slow speed over 15 
>> years ago and after getting a few lacerations stitched up felt pretty good, 
>> and thought, "Well, I can ride in tomorrow." Nope, I spent a week stiff and 
>> sore. But you didn't hit the ground so perhaps you'll fare better.
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 30, 2023 at 2:25 PM Piaw Na  wrote:
>>
>>> I think I used up all my luck for the next few years: 
>>> https://www.strava.com/activities/8984851311. Coming down Prospect road 
>>> on my Roadini, a deer tried to cross the road as I came around the corner. 
>>> He swerved, I swerved, but we collided, and bounced. I saw my vision go up 
>>> and down and thought it was all over. Fortunately, there was no traffic on 
>>> the road and I didn't crash. The bike seems undamaged as it was my arms and 
>>> legs that made contact. I kept riding home and the deer ran off into the 
>>> bushes by the side of the road. I'm going to be so sore tomorrow. The whole 
>>> thing was over in 2 seconds. I remember Terry Shaw once telling me about 
>>> his days of racing in the velodrome where sprints would physically muscle 
>>> each other while riding. I definitely felt muscled by something that 
>>> outweighed me significantly!
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Deer-bike collision

[藍俊彪]

I'm pretty sure the deer that hit me weighs less than a car. Hopefully I
won't be a disaster tomorrow.

On Sun, Apr 30, 2023, 13:45 Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I'm glad your wheels stayed down and hope that you are not too sore in a
> day or two. I was knocked over by a right-turning car at slow speed over 15
> years ago and after getting a few lacerations stitched up felt pretty good,
> and thought, "Well, I can ride in tomorrow." Nope, I spent a week stiff and
> sore. But you didn't hit the ground so perhaps you'll fare better.
>
> On Sun, Apr 30, 2023 at 2:25 PM Piaw Na  wrote:
>
>> I think I used up all my luck for the next few years:
>> https://www.strava.com/activities/8984851311. Coming down Prospect road
>> on my Roadini, a deer tried to cross the road as I came around the corner.
>> He swerved, I swerved, but we collided, and bounced. I saw my vision go up
>> and down and thought it was all over. Fortunately, there was no traffic on
>> the road and I didn't crash. The bike seems undamaged as it was my arms and
>> legs that made contact. I kept riding home and the deer ran off into the
>> bushes by the side of the road. I'm going to be so sore tomorrow. The whole
>> thing was over in 2 seconds. I remember Terry Shaw once telling me about
>> his days of racing in the velodrome where sprints would physically muscle
>> each other while riding. I definitely felt muscled by something that
>> outweighed me significantly!
>>
>> --
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Deer-bike collision

[Patrick Moore]

I'm glad your wheels stayed down and hope that you are not too sore in a
day or two. I was knocked over by a right-turning car at slow speed over 15
years ago and after getting a few lacerations stitched up felt pretty good,
and thought, "Well, I can ride in tomorrow." Nope, I spent a week stiff and
sore. But you didn't hit the ground so perhaps you'll fare better.

On Sun, Apr 30, 2023 at 2:25 PM Piaw Na  wrote:

> I think I used up all my luck for the next few years:
> https://www.strava.com/activities/8984851311. Coming down Prospect road
> on my Roadini, a deer tried to cross the road as I came around the corner.
> He swerved, I swerved, but we collided, and bounced. I saw my vision go up
> and down and thought it was all over. Fortunately, there was no traffic on
> the road and I didn't crash. The bike seems undamaged as it was my arms and
> legs that made contact. I kept riding home and the deer ran off into the
> bushes by the side of the road. I'm going to be so sore tomorrow. The whole
> thing was over in 2 seconds. I remember Terry Shaw once telling me about
> his days of racing in the velodrome where sprints would physically muscle
> each other while riding. I definitely felt muscled by something that
> outweighed me significantly!
>
> --
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> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> 
> .
>


-- 

---
Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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[RBW] Deer-bike collision

[Piaw Na]

I think I used up all my luck for the next few years: 
https://www.strava.com/activities/8984851311. Coming down Prospect road on 
my Roadini, a deer tried to cross the road as I came around the corner. He 
swerved, I swerved, but we collided, and bounced. I saw my vision go up and 
down and thought it was all over. Fortunately, there was no traffic on the 
road and I didn't crash. The bike seems undamaged as it was my arms and 
legs that made contact. I kept riding home and the deer ran off into the 
bushes by the side of the road. I'm going to be so sore tomorrow. The whole 
thing was over in 2 seconds. I remember Terry Shaw once telling me about 
his days of racing in the velodrome where sprints would physically muscle 
each other while riding. I definitely felt muscled by something that 
outweighed me significantly!

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Re: [RBW] WTB 650b conversion parts for Riv Road Standard

[Joe Bernard]

Custom is good. Whatever you have is working!  (excellent color, too)

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:04:14 PM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:

> Joe,
> I was just going with what the original owner told me as far as Riv Road, 
> it may well be a custom. Luckily for me, I had a set of 559's AND a 650b 
> wheelset sitting on a Bleriot frame. I tested fit prior to putting my 
> requests out there. 42's fit with fenders, though I will dimple the 
> chainstays for additional peace of mind, and the 559's have plenty of reach 
> for this specific instance. 
>
> I feel that I am extremely lucky in that this (road, longlow, custom?) 
> bike works in ways others have not/do not. 
>
> Best,
> Eric
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:10:20 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>>
>> The Road Standard was the original Waterford model with short-reach 
>> brakes, a Joe Starck is getting into custom territory. I could be wrong but 
>> your current brakes look like the Shimano mid-reachers that Riv later put 
>> on Rambouillet and Romulus. If this is accurate you may not get the results 
>> you need with 559s, the reach for them works on 650B when replacing 
>> short-reach for long. Going from mid-reach to way-longer-reach may put the 
>> pads below the new rims. 
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:02:03 AM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:
>>
>>> Doug,
>>> The reasons I am saying it's a Road Standard vs. LongLow are no 
>>> guarantee, but the original purchaser/orderer of the frame said it was a 
>>> Road Standard, it has sidepulls (vs. cantilever on many LL's), chainstay 
>>> length seems to match RS's and it fits a 35, but w/ no room for fenders and 
>>> doesn't fit 38's (might be doable if you don't like clearance at the fork, 
>>> but not doable in the rear where a 38 rubs width-wise). Maybe there was a 
>>> bit of overlap in customization, I'm not sure, this was just JS's 14th bike 
>>> for Riv... Happy to entertain this bike being anything, it rides 
>>> wonderfully, looks beautiful and has lots of life left for a well ridden 
>>> 25+ year old frame. I'm excited no matter the name!
>>>
>>> PS- I've found wheels & brakes and I appreciate everyone's interest in 
>>> helping out!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 9:43:26 PM UTC-4 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>>>
 Are you sure this isn’t a Long Low?  I have a ‘99 JS Road Std, also 
 with short reach brakes (that probably maxes out between 32 and 35mm) and 
 I 
 don’t recall the Road Std having any other brake option…

 Doug


 On Fri, Apr 28, 2023 at 2:03 PM Jim Bronson  wrote:

> I also have a Joe Starck Road Standard from that era, but mine has 
> short reach brakes.  It barely fits a 700c 30mm under the brakes, I'm 
> surprised you got a 35 in there.  Yours must have been built with more 
> brake clearance than mine.   I also converted mine to 650B and have 
> ridden 
> it 10,000 kilometers of brevets that way and lots of other rides.  I'm 
> not 
> so sure you'll be able to fit a 42 in there though, the chainstay width 
> and 
> fork width is the limiting factor on my bike.  I'm pretty sure a 42mm 
> would 
> rub.  However, if you can make it work then more power to you.  I'm happy 
> with my 38s and cream longboards I got from Rivendell.
>
> I want to also convert my Redwood, and I'm hoping it will fit 
> 650Bx48.  I do have the parts to do it, but you would not like the rims I 
> have anyway, I'm 6'7" 300+ and I've destroyed too many lightweight rims 
> to 
> buy any more, it gets expensive.  600-650 grams is where I shoot for now. 
>  
> I've gotten good service from Velocity Atlas 650B, to name one in 
> particular.  Eventually though they all crack around the spoke bed and I 
> have to get another wheel built.  I need to get back down to my 
> pre-parenthood weight, more in the 240-260 range, that was easier on bike 
> parts.
>
> Anyway good luck with your older Rivendell!  I love mine!
>
> Jim
> Austin suburbs
>


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Re: [RBW] WTB 650b conversion parts for Riv Road Standard

[EGNolan]

Joe,
I was just going with what the original owner told me as far as Riv Road, 
it may well be a custom. Luckily for me, I had a set of 559's AND a 650b 
wheelset sitting on a Bleriot frame. I tested fit prior to putting my 
requests out there. 42's fit with fenders, though I will dimple the 
chainstays for additional peace of mind, and the 559's have plenty of reach 
for this specific instance. 

I feel that I am extremely lucky in that this (road, longlow, custom?) bike 
works in ways others have not/do not. 

Best,
Eric

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:10:20 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

>
> The Road Standard was the original Waterford model with short-reach 
> brakes, a Joe Starck is getting into custom territory. I could be wrong but 
> your current brakes look like the Shimano mid-reachers that Riv later put 
> on Rambouillet and Romulus. If this is accurate you may not get the results 
> you need with 559s, the reach for them works on 650B when replacing 
> short-reach for long. Going from mid-reach to way-longer-reach may put the 
> pads below the new rims. 
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:02:03 AM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:
>
>> Doug,
>> The reasons I am saying it's a Road Standard vs. LongLow are no 
>> guarantee, but the original purchaser/orderer of the frame said it was a 
>> Road Standard, it has sidepulls (vs. cantilever on many LL's), chainstay 
>> length seems to match RS's and it fits a 35, but w/ no room for fenders and 
>> doesn't fit 38's (might be doable if you don't like clearance at the fork, 
>> but not doable in the rear where a 38 rubs width-wise). Maybe there was a 
>> bit of overlap in customization, I'm not sure, this was just JS's 14th bike 
>> for Riv... Happy to entertain this bike being anything, it rides 
>> wonderfully, looks beautiful and has lots of life left for a well ridden 
>> 25+ year old frame. I'm excited no matter the name!
>>
>> PS- I've found wheels & brakes and I appreciate everyone's interest in 
>> helping out!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 9:43:26 PM UTC-4 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>>
>>> Are you sure this isn’t a Long Low?  I have a ‘99 JS Road Std, also with 
>>> short reach brakes (that probably maxes out between 32 and 35mm) and I 
>>> don’t recall the Road Std having any other brake option…
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 28, 2023 at 2:03 PM Jim Bronson  wrote:
>>>
 I also have a Joe Starck Road Standard from that era, but mine has 
 short reach brakes.  It barely fits a 700c 30mm under the brakes, I'm 
 surprised you got a 35 in there.  Yours must have been built with more 
 brake clearance than mine.   I also converted mine to 650B and have ridden 
 it 10,000 kilometers of brevets that way and lots of other rides.  I'm not 
 so sure you'll be able to fit a 42 in there though, the chainstay width 
 and 
 fork width is the limiting factor on my bike.  I'm pretty sure a 42mm 
 would 
 rub.  However, if you can make it work then more power to you.  I'm happy 
 with my 38s and cream longboards I got from Rivendell.

 I want to also convert my Redwood, and I'm hoping it will fit 650Bx48.  
 I do have the parts to do it, but you would not like the rims I have 
 anyway, I'm 6'7" 300+ and I've destroyed too many lightweight rims to buy 
 any more, it gets expensive.  600-650 grams is where I shoot for now.  
 I've 
 gotten good service from Velocity Atlas 650B, to name one in particular.  
 Eventually though they all crack around the spoke bed and I have to get 
 another wheel built.  I need to get back down to my pre-parenthood weight, 
 more in the 240-260 range, that was easier on bike parts.

 Anyway good luck with your older Rivendell!  I love mine!

 Jim
 Austin suburbs

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Double 1x

[Joe Bernard]

I should add - I didn't realize my aside about it needing a little work 
would be so noticeable - that my front shifting works good enough most of 
the time now. My intent was to show how a narrow range double could work 
with one of those huge cassettes people use for 1x's. 

On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 11:31:52 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> That may be the next move but I suspect it's a spindle length issue. This 
> FD was designed to run with an MTB double with a wide Q and 10-spd 
> chainrings closer together, it's not quite snapping over hard enough to the 
> small ring before running out of travel (limit screw all the way out). I 
> don't want to put in a longer bottom bracket so I may need to pick up an 
> older FD like Riv used to put on most of their bikes.*
>
> *This is the part of the story where I remember why I gave up front 
> derailers. 
>
> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 11:17:01 PM UTC-7 Hetchins52 wrote:
>
>> Looks like you can lower the new derailleur a tad. Have you tried that 
>> and run into interference?
>>
>> David Lipsky
>> Berkeley, CA
>> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 10:04:45 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
>>> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
>>> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>>>
>>> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
>>> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
>>> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
>>> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>>>
>>> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
>>> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
>>> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
>>> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
>>> works! 
>>>
>>> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
>>> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
>>> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
>>> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
>>> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
>>> as an expanded 1x. 
>>>
>>> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
>>> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
>>> this! 
>>>
>>> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer 
>>> again" Bernard
>>>
>>> [image: Screenshot_20230429_211431.jpg][image: 
>>> Screenshot_20230429_211411.jpg]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Adam]

Thanks everyone,

I managed to make time to sort it out (can't stand not to have things 
riding shape) and the case is closed for now.

It came off with a bit of a struggle. There were a few bits of aluminum, 
which I cleaned off. Everything looks fine, so I re-greased, re-installed 
and took it a little easier on the tightening. All seems good to ride.

Thanks all!

Adam

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 12:34:11 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Agreed with Ian, when it comes to reinstalling my procress is to give it a 
> good extra tug after the clattering "it's tight" sounds start and call it a 
> day. I've tried removing the way-too-tight ones and it ain't pretty! 
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:26:50 AM UTC-7 Ian A wrote:
>
>> I'd be inclined to unscrew the lockring now, while the grease is fresh. 
>> I've always erred on the side of not tight enough with lockrings because if 
>> they do unscrew in use the only thing that has happened for me is the 
>> shifting has gone weird.  
>>
>> When you unscrew it, just be careful the removal tool is firmly seated. 
>> If needed and just to get it broken loose, you could use a QR and a couple 
>> of washers to make sure it can't slip and strip the female splines on the 
>> lockring.
>>
>> IanA
>>
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:06:35 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>>
>>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>>
>>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>>
>>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>>
>>> THANKS!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Joe Bernard]

Agreed with Ian, when it comes to reinstalling my procress is to give it a 
good extra tug after the clattering "it's tight" sounds start and call it a 
day. I've tried removing the way-too-tight ones and it ain't pretty! 

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:26:50 AM UTC-7 Ian A wrote:

> I'd be inclined to unscrew the lockring now, while the grease is fresh. 
> I've always erred on the side of not tight enough with lockrings because if 
> they do unscrew in use the only thing that has happened for me is the 
> shifting has gone weird.  
>
> When you unscrew it, just be careful the removal tool is firmly seated. If 
> needed and just to get it broken loose, you could use a QR and a couple of 
> washers to make sure it can't slip and strip the female splines on the 
> lockring.
>
> IanA
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:06:35 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>
>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>
>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>
>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>
>> THANKS!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Mr. Ray]

Looks like your lockring is "lightweight" aluminum.  The shards are likely 
aluminum as the cassette cog is steel.  You don't say what your freehub 
body is.  I would remove and inspect the lockring (replace or re-use) and 
re-tighten to correct torque.

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 11:27:34 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:

>
> 
>
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts, here's a quick pic. 
> 
>
> I don't have time to take the wheel off for a better image at the moment 
> (running out the door), but here's a sense of the bite into the cassette. 
> I'm wondering if I missed the thin washer that's supposed to be there.
>
> Any other thoughts, I'm happy to hear. (esp if it means I can wait to deal 
> with this!)
>
> If anyone has advice on a low-budget torque wrench let me know.
>
> THANKS
>
> Adam
>
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:37:45 AM UTC-5 Tony Lockhart wrote:
>
>> Hi Adam, 
>>
>> Sorry to hear about the complications. I’m curious to see close-up 
>> pictures of the damage.
>>
>> Depending on how much risk you’re comfortable with I think you could take 
>> progressively longer rides to make sure everything is OK. In this situation 
>> I would remove the parts, inspect, reinstall, and torque to the proper 
>> spec…. Followed by a number of rides that increasing distance. This might 
>> be a good teachable moment for you, and I don’t think being cautious could 
>> hurt you.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> Tony
>>
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:06:35 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>>
>>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>>
>>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>>
>>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>>
>>> THANKS!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] WTB 650b conversion parts for Riv Road Standard

[Joe Bernard]

The Road Standard was the original Waterford model with short-reach brakes, 
a Joe Starck is getting into custom territory. I could be wrong but your 
current brakes look like the Shimano mid-reachers that Riv later put on 
Rambouillet and Romulus. If this is accurate you may not get the results 
you need with 559s, the reach for them works on 650B when replacing 
short-reach for long. Going from mid-reach to way-longer-reach may put the 
pads below the new rims. 
On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:02:03 AM UTC-7 EGNolan wrote:

> Doug,
> The reasons I am saying it's a Road Standard vs. LongLow are no guarantee, 
> but the original purchaser/orderer of the frame said it was a Road 
> Standard, it has sidepulls (vs. cantilever on many LL's), chainstay length 
> seems to match RS's and it fits a 35, but w/ no room for fenders and 
> doesn't fit 38's (might be doable if you don't like clearance at the fork, 
> but not doable in the rear where a 38 rubs width-wise). Maybe there was a 
> bit of overlap in customization, I'm not sure, this was just JS's 14th bike 
> for Riv... Happy to entertain this bike being anything, it rides 
> wonderfully, looks beautiful and has lots of life left for a well ridden 
> 25+ year old frame. I'm excited no matter the name!
>
> PS- I've found wheels & brakes and I appreciate everyone's interest in 
> helping out!
>
> Eric
>
> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 9:43:26 PM UTC-4 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>
>> Are you sure this isn’t a Long Low?  I have a ‘99 JS Road Std, also with 
>> short reach brakes (that probably maxes out between 32 and 35mm) and I 
>> don’t recall the Road Std having any other brake option…
>>
>> Doug
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 28, 2023 at 2:03 PM Jim Bronson  wrote:
>>
>>> I also have a Joe Starck Road Standard from that era, but mine has short 
>>> reach brakes.  It barely fits a 700c 30mm under the brakes, I'm surprised 
>>> you got a 35 in there.  Yours must have been built with more brake 
>>> clearance than mine.   I also converted mine to 650B and have ridden it 
>>> 10,000 kilometers of brevets that way and lots of other rides.  I'm not so 
>>> sure you'll be able to fit a 42 in there though, the chainstay width and 
>>> fork width is the limiting factor on my bike.  I'm pretty sure a 42mm would 
>>> rub.  However, if you can make it work then more power to you.  I'm happy 
>>> with my 38s and cream longboards I got from Rivendell.
>>>
>>> I want to also convert my Redwood, and I'm hoping it will fit 650Bx48.  
>>> I do have the parts to do it, but you would not like the rims I have 
>>> anyway, I'm 6'7" 300+ and I've destroyed too many lightweight rims to buy 
>>> any more, it gets expensive.  600-650 grams is where I shoot for now.  I've 
>>> gotten good service from Velocity Atlas 650B, to name one in particular.  
>>> Eventually though they all crack around the spoke bed and I have to get 
>>> another wheel built.  I need to get back down to my pre-parenthood weight, 
>>> more in the 240-260 range, that was easier on bike parts.
>>>
>>> Anyway good luck with your older Rivendell!  I love mine!
>>>
>>> Jim
>>> Austin suburbs
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Double 1x

[iamkeith]

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 6:46:46 AM UTC-6 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

I was just writing elsewhere that (so far) my 2 x 7 drivetrain I installed 
on my Gus is like having two 1x7 drivetrain’s. That’s the magic of the 
Silver wide/low crank with 38/24 rings. On road/gravel rides I’ve yet to 
use the 24 & I’ve not spun out in the top end. On local quite hilly 
singletrack I just put it on the 24 & leave it there.:)



Agree.  But I actually think the magic lies in the long chainstays of the 
Clem.  You can stay on any chainring and still have use of the full range 
of the cassette, without worrying about cross-chaining issues like 
excessive chain wear or rubbing  on shift cages or adjacent cogs.  Much 
different than old short chainstay bikes where you HAD to move the move the 
chain through the front rings as you moved across the rear cassette, and 
ended up with far fewer usable gear combos than the numbers would suggest.  
In turn (and to address Joe's issue)  it becomes much less important if the 
front shifts are super smooth or reliable.  The jump can (and might as 
well) be bigger, too.  If you think of it as two 1× drivetrains and only 
shift the front on occasion, and if you can live with some idiosycracies 
(read:  theft deterrent), it saves alot of stress of being a perfectionist.

 

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 30, 2023, at 1:04 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:

I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
mashed some parts together and this is the result. 


Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 

Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I can't 
use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a little 
and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano Deore 
(DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
works! 

Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
as an expanded 1x. 

Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
this! 

Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer again" 
Bernard




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.



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[RBW] FS: Silver 26.8 Seatpost - Stock Rivendell Kind

[Johnny Alien]

My effort to not stockpile anymore is continuing. I replaced my stock 26.8 
seatpost on my protogallop and now it can go to a new home. These are very 
nice seatpost actually. There is a decent amount of setback and they look 
great. Not Nitto great but they aren't Nitto priced either. Velo Orange 
sells them under the Daija name. This one is essentially like new. Very 
good shape. All I want is $20 to cover the shipping costs to you. I wish it 
was cheaper but with the longer box and higher shipping costs it is what it 
is. But hey...Its a great seatpost that fits Rivendells weird size and it's 
only $20. Here is a link to the Velo Orange page for them.

https://velo-orange.com/collections/seatposts/products/dajia-one-bolt-post?variant=50647477959

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Adam]

Thanks for the thoughts, here's a quick pic. 


I don't have time to take the wheel off for a better image at the moment 
(running out the door), but here's a sense of the bite into the cassette. 
I'm wondering if I missed the thin washer that's supposed to be there.

Any other thoughts, I'm happy to hear. (esp if it means I can wait to deal 
with this!)

If anyone has advice on a low-budget torque wrench let me know.

THANKS

Adam


On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:37:45 AM UTC-5 Tony Lockhart wrote:

> Hi Adam, 
>
> Sorry to hear about the complications. I’m curious to see close-up 
> pictures of the damage.
>
> Depending on how much risk you’re comfortable with I think you could take 
> progressively longer rides to make sure everything is OK. In this situation 
> I would remove the parts, inspect, reinstall, and torque to the proper 
> spec…. Followed by a number of rides that increasing distance. This might 
> be a good teachable moment for you, and I don’t think being cautious could 
> hurt you.
>
> Good luck!
> Tony
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:06:35 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>
>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>
>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>
>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>
>> THANKS!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Ian A]

I'd be inclined to unscrew the lockring now, while the grease is fresh. 
I've always erred on the side of not tight enough with lockrings because if 
they do unscrew in use the only thing that has happened for me is the 
shifting has gone weird.  

When you unscrew it, just be careful the removal tool is firmly seated. If 
needed and just to get it broken loose, you could use a QR and a couple of 
washers to make sure it can't slip and strip the female splines on the 
lockring.

IanA

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:06:35 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>
> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>
> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen and 
> re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me in a 
> year or two when I change the cassette again?
>
> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>
> THANKS!
>
> Adam
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Double 1x

[Eric Daume]

CUES has a 2x option.

Eric
who doesn't miss the front derailleur at all

On Sun, Apr 30, 2023 at 8:22 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> Somewhere in the last two days I read something roughly this: "I tried to
> ditch front derailleurs on my road bike but they just work so well."
> Perhaps from one of the bike topic digest emails I get daily but oh so
> true. I solved my FD needs on my newest 2x bike with an NOS SunTour Superbe
> Pro from the mid '80s. Fit and worked better than all of the current FDs
> from three makers.
>
> When I see the size of those cassettes and necessity for expensive
> materials to keep their weight appropriate, RDs requiring clutches and
> reduced compatibility of shifters, it rekindles the thought that my 2x road
> drivetrains are pretty good. They are simple, elegant and yet
> sophisticated, durable and light. Above all I am not perplexed by their
> operation, adjustment or maintenance. i'm not going change what works for
> me, the struggle to reach that point had many lessons both near and far
> from home or a sag call.
>
> What seems simple (1x) sometimes comes with great complexity once details
> start being ironed out. I'm not a fan of the complete component group
> drivetrain sales to volume manufacturers targeting new or newer cyclists
> being the driving standard. They are telling the experienced cyclist that
> they don't matter to them.
>
> Shimano sales were down 17% in 2022, forecast to be down 22% in 2023.
> How's that model working out for them? CUES is their response. Hope they
> start considering the dedicated,, experienced cyclists a bit more.
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
>
>
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:04:45 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills
>> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so
>> mashed some parts together and this is the result.
>>
>> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the
>> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and
>> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex
>> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring.
>>
>> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I
>> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a
>> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano
>> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It
>> works!
>>
>> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small
>> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall
>> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing
>> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the
>> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it
>> as an expanded 1x.
>>
>> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old
>> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like
>> this!
>>
>> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer
>> again" Bernard
>>
>> [image: Screenshot_20230429_211431.jpg][image:
>> Screenshot_20230429_211411.jpg]
>>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] WTB 650b conversion parts for Riv Road Standard

[EGNolan]

Doug,
The reasons I am saying it's a Road Standard vs. LongLow are no guarantee, 
but the original purchaser/orderer of the frame said it was a Road 
Standard, it has sidepulls (vs. cantilever on many LL's), chainstay length 
seems to match RS's and it fits a 35, but w/ no room for fenders and 
doesn't fit 38's (might be doable if you don't like clearance at the fork, 
but not doable in the rear where a 38 rubs width-wise). Maybe there was a 
bit of overlap in customization, I'm not sure, this was just JS's 14th bike 
for Riv... Happy to entertain this bike being anything, it rides 
wonderfully, looks beautiful and has lots of life left for a well ridden 
25+ year old frame. I'm excited no matter the name!

PS- I've found wheels & brakes and I appreciate everyone's interest in 
helping out!

Eric

On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 9:43:26 PM UTC-4 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Are you sure this isn’t a Long Low?  I have a ‘99 JS Road Std, also with 
> short reach brakes (that probably maxes out between 32 and 35mm) and I 
> don’t recall the Road Std having any other brake option…
>
> Doug
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 28, 2023 at 2:03 PM Jim Bronson  wrote:
>
>> I also have a Joe Starck Road Standard from that era, but mine has short 
>> reach brakes.  It barely fits a 700c 30mm under the brakes, I'm surprised 
>> you got a 35 in there.  Yours must have been built with more brake 
>> clearance than mine.   I also converted mine to 650B and have ridden it 
>> 10,000 kilometers of brevets that way and lots of other rides.  I'm not so 
>> sure you'll be able to fit a 42 in there though, the chainstay width and 
>> fork width is the limiting factor on my bike.  I'm pretty sure a 42mm would 
>> rub.  However, if you can make it work then more power to you.  I'm happy 
>> with my 38s and cream longboards I got from Rivendell.
>>
>> I want to also convert my Redwood, and I'm hoping it will fit 650Bx48.  I 
>> do have the parts to do it, but you would not like the rims I have anyway, 
>> I'm 6'7" 300+ and I've destroyed too many lightweight rims to buy any more, 
>> it gets expensive.  600-650 grams is where I shoot for now.  I've gotten 
>> good service from Velocity Atlas 650B, to name one in particular.  
>> Eventually though they all crack around the spoke bed and I have to get 
>> another wheel built.  I need to get back down to my pre-parenthood weight, 
>> more in the 240-260 range, that was easier on bike parts.
>>
>> Anyway good luck with your older Rivendell!  I love mine!
>>
>> Jim
>> Austin suburbs
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Tony Lockhart]

Hi Adam, 

Sorry to hear about the complications. I’m curious to see close-up pictures 
of the damage.

Depending on how much risk you’re comfortable with I think you could take 
progressively longer rides to make sure everything is OK. In this situation 
I would remove the parts, inspect, reinstall, and torque to the proper 
spec…. Followed by a number of rides that increasing distance. This might 
be a good teachable moment for you, and I don’t think being cautious could 
hurt you.

Good luck!
Tony

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:06:35 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>
> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>
> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen and 
> re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me in a 
> year or two when I change the cassette again?
>
> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>
> THANKS!
>
> Adam
>

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[RBW] lock ring too tight

[Adam]

Hi all,

Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.

I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)

The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen and 
re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me in a 
year or two when I change the cassette again?

I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .

THANKS!

Adam

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Re: [RBW] Brooks B17 repair

[Pam Bikes]

Simon is the guy.  He's repaired my saddle several times - I think twice 
but then said it was like the "ship of epheseus"there's another guy 
that you check with:  https://www.rhmsaddles.com/contact
I have one like that as well so let me know what you decide.  Mine may not 
be worth saving.  It's really old and has thin rails.  If anyone wants it, 
let me know if you want to see some pictures.

On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 1:41:18 AM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:

> Firth & Wilson
> (215) 644-8124
> si...@transportcycle.com 
> Philadelphia, PA. 19148-2386
> These people are fast and reasonably priced.
> Jon
>
> On Thu, Apr 27, 2023, 6:20 PM dougP  wrote:
>
>> After years of good service, my Brooks B17 blew out the leather at the 
>> nose. Is there a North American source for repair? Any idea what this costs?
>>
>> Doug Peterson
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Lighter than your Platypus

[Garth]

Hah hah ... no one has been harmed or could be harmed in the telling of 
this story/tale.  It's like opening a book and in the reading of it taking 
offense to the reading of it. Well that reminds me of a Ventriloquist who 
takes offense when the "dummie" speaks.

"How dare you, I mean me, say that !"   
Ahahahahahaahah !!!
Hilarity and laughter ensues :-))


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Re: [RBW] Double 1x

[DavidP]

You can also do double 1x with two chainrings and skip the front derailleur 
and shifter - manually shift the front when desired (usually while stopped 
but down shifts can be done while riding easily enough using your foot to 
nudge the chain).

-Dave

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:46:46 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> I was just writing elsewhere that (so far) my 2 x 7 drivetrain I installed 
> on my Gus is like having two 1x7 drivetrain’s. That’s the magic of the 
> Silver wide/low crank with 38/24 rings. On road/gravel rides I’ve yet to 
> use the 24 & I’ve not spun out in the top end. On local quite hilly 
> singletrack I just put it on the 24 & leave it there.:)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 30, 2023, at 1:04 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>
>
> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>
> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
> works! 
>
> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
> as an expanded 1x. 
>
> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
> this! 
>
> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer again" 
> Bernard
>
> 
> 
>
> -- 
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>  
> 
> .
> 
> 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Double 1x

[Richard Rose]

I was just writing elsewhere that (so far) my 2 x 7 drivetrain I installed on my Gus is like having two 1x7 drivetrain’s. That’s the magic of the Silver wide/low crank with 38/24 rings. On road/gravel rides I’ve yet to use the 24 & I’ve not spun out in the top end. On local quite hilly singletrack I just put it on the 24 & leave it there.:)Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 30, 2023, at 1:04 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so mashed some parts together and this is the result. Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It works! Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it as an expanded 1x. Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like this! Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer again" Bernard



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[RBW] Re: Double 1x

[ascpgh]

Somewhere in the last two days I read something roughly this: "I tried to 
ditch front derailleurs on my road bike but they just work so well." 
Perhaps from one of the bike topic digest emails I get daily but oh so 
true. I solved my FD needs on my newest 2x bike with an NOS SunTour Superbe 
Pro from the mid '80s. Fit and worked better than all of the current FDs 
from three makers. 

When I see the size of those cassettes and necessity for expensive 
materials to keep their weight appropriate, RDs requiring clutches and 
reduced compatibility of shifters, it rekindles the thought that my 2x road 
drivetrains are pretty good. They are simple, elegant and yet 
sophisticated, durable and light. Above all I am not perplexed by their 
operation, adjustment or maintenance. i'm not going change what works for 
me, the struggle to reach that point had many lessons both near and far 
from home or a sag call.

What seems simple (1x) sometimes comes with great complexity once details 
start being ironed out. I'm not a fan of the complete component group 
drivetrain sales to volume manufacturers targeting new or newer cyclists 
being the driving standard. They are telling the experienced cyclist that 
they don't matter to them.

Shimano sales were down 17% in 2022, forecast to be down 22% in 2023. How's 
that model working out for them? CUES is their response. Hope they start 
considering the dedicated,, experienced cyclists a bit more.

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh




On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 1:04:45 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>
> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>
> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
> works! 
>
> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
> as an expanded 1x. 
>
> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
> this! 
>
> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer again" 
> Bernard
>
> [image: Screenshot_20230429_211431.jpg][image: 
> Screenshot_20230429_211411.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Heck, even my Monocog is lighter than your Platypus. [Monocog with Specialized Hover bar]

[Garth]

Ahahahahahaahahahahahaahaha   !!!  

Very good Leah :-) 





On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 4:36:11 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

It’s about to get sillier. I made a video in response to Patrick’s thread. 
I’m attaching it as a link here, since it’s too big to include in the text. 
I changed my Instagram to public for this, but I’ll switch it back to 
private soon, so watch it before I do!

I’m on a roll over there with taking classic, classy Rivendells and putting 
them to tacky hit music. 5 years ago you long-time Riv fans would have 
thrown me out of here, but I think I’ve worn you down enough that you will 
find this palatable. Or not!

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[RBW] Re: Double 1x

[Joe Bernard]

That may be the next move but I suspect it's a spindle length issue. This 
FD was designed to run with an MTB double with a wide Q and 10-spd 
chainrings closer together, it's not quite snapping over hard enough to the 
small ring before running out of travel (limit screw all the way out). I 
don't want to put in a longer bottom bracket so I may need to pick up an 
older FD like Riv used to put on most of their bikes.*

*This is the part of the story where I remember why I gave up front 
derailers. 

On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 11:17:01 PM UTC-7 Hetchins52 wrote:

> Looks like you can lower the new derailleur a tad. Have you tried that and 
> run into interference?
>
> David Lipsky
> Berkeley, CA
> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 10:04:45 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
>> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
>> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>>
>> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
>> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
>> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
>> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>>
>> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
>> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
>> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
>> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
>> works! 
>>
>> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
>> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
>> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
>> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
>> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
>> as an expanded 1x. 
>>
>> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
>> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
>> this! 
>>
>> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer 
>> again" Bernard
>>
>> [image: Screenshot_20230429_211431.jpg][image: 
>> Screenshot_20230429_211411.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Double 1x

['Hetchins52' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Looks like you can lower the new derailleur a tad. Have you tried that and 
run into interference?

David Lipsky
Berkeley, CA
On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 10:04:45 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>
> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>
> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
> works! 
>
> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
> as an expanded 1x. 
>
> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
> this! 
>
> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer again" 
> Bernard
>
> [image: Screenshot_20230429_211431.jpg][image: 
> Screenshot_20230429_211411.jpg]
>

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