Re: [RBW] Re: Tubeless Maintenance

[Bill M.]

Tubeless ain't easier, just more flat-proof and a little nicer riding.  I 
have two bikes set tubeless and like how they ride, but I'm fine with 
trading effort up front in the garage to avoid fixing flats on the road 
later on.  If you don't flat much that effort and the cost of sealant may 
not pay off for you.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 7:53:29 AM UTC-8, William! wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking about converting to tubeless as well (both my rims and 
> tires are compatible) but have been scared away by their new-fangledness 
> and reputation for being fussy. I already have pretty good luck with my 
> tubes, very rarely a puncture flat but I have had pinch flats when running 
> lower pressure on trails. I have zero interest in performance, weight, 
> rolling resistance etc. 
>
>
> Will tubeless save me hassle or create it? Anyone tried tubeless and not 
> found it easier? Do you have to pump up your tires more often than with 
> tubed? Other gotchas or hidden maintenance costs I should consider?

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[RBW] Re: Not ugly quill to threadless: Can it be done?

[Bill M.]

Frankly, I think that's uglier than the VO adapter / VO stem combo.  I used 
the VO setup on my old Riv Road and found it to be very convenient and 
adjustable, and actually lighter than a traditional Nitto stem.

Another option would be to use a different bar, like a SOMA Hwy 1, that 
doesn't require a 31.8 mm stem clamp.

Bill
Sockton, CA

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 1:41:41 PM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> https://alexscycle.com/products/nitto-clamp-on-ui-13
>
> Nitto UI12. 
>
> -J
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Bill M.]

Correct, mine are paired with SRAM brifters.

Bill

On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 1:27:21 PM UTC-8, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
> I just looked them up again (Yokozuna Motoko brakes) and realized they are 
> in fact "road" disc calipers and appear to use short pull levers, not long 
> pull/v brake levers.  Didn't realize this initially but thought I'd mention 
> it here for clarification.
>
> On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 3:38:33 PM UTC-5, Bill M. wrote:
>>
>> I just set up my first disc-braked bike using these brakes.  Mine  are 
>> branded Juin Tech (Yokozuna rebrands the calipers includes a set of their 
>> own cables, otherwise the same). 
>>
>> On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 8:18:23 AM UTC-8, Coal Bee Rye Anne 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Anyone here have any experience using the Yokozuna cable actuated 
>>> hydraulic disc calipers?  If I understand correctly these have a sealed 
>>> hydraulic system contained within the caliper only and use standard long 
>>> pull brake cables/levers.  These were mentioned to me by the owner of a 
>>> local shop during a visit a few months ago but I have not yet seen them in 
>>> person. 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Bill M.]

I just set up my first disc-braked bike using these brakes.  Mine  are 
branded Juin Tech (Yokozuna rebrands the calipers includes a set of their 
own cables, otherwise the same).  They are dead simple to set up and adjust 
- attach the calipers loosely, install the cable, then tighten the caliper 
bolts while firmly holding the brake lever to align the caliper to the 
disc.  Spin the wheel and tighten the adjusting knob until the pads start 
to contact the disc, then back it off until they don't.  Done.  Further pad 
adjustments are manual but as simple as can be.  

I have not taken the bike down any significant hills but the lever effort 
is low and they provide plenty of stopping power.  No complaints there at 
all.  Far better than any canti's I have owned.

Longevity is still an open question, I have under 200 dry miles on them so 
far.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, December 28, 2017 at 8:18:23 AM UTC-8, Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:
>
> Anyone here have any experience using the Yokozuna cable actuated 
> hydraulic disc calipers?  If I understand correctly these have a sealed 
> hydraulic system contained within the caliper only and use standard long 
> pull brake cables/levers.  These were mentioned to me by the owner of a 
> local shop during a visit a few months ago but I have not yet seen them in 
> person. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Banana Sax Pics?

[Bill M.]

I have the 'original' version of the Banana bag, which hung from the saddle 
rails.  It looks like the new one is for saddles with loops only?  That 
would be a deal breaker for me, which is too bad because the blue might go 
nicely with my next bike (custom, lugged but non-Riv).  The toggles, 
reflective strip, inside pocket and blinkie loop are all nice improvements, 
though.

The mounting in the photos looks messy, I always run the buckles inside the 
bag, with just small loops of leather outside snugged up to the saddle.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, December 21, 2017 at 6:44:12 PM UTC-8, Christopher Murray 
wrote:
>
> I am trying to decide between the Sackville small and the Banana sax. Does 
> anyone have pics and/or comments about the banana sax? 
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
>

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[RBW] Re: A question about frame bags

[Bill M.]

I have read that Tour Divide riders found that racks inevitably failed due 
to fatigue or damage from crashes, so they dodge that potential failure by 
just lashing everything to the frame, fork, handlebar or seatpost.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Sunday, October 29, 2017 at 7:01:56 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> This is from the uninitiated. I've only seen them in photos, so no 
> experience at all. The question: Why? It seems like they couldn't hold much 
> (compared to saddle bags or panniers) without being stuffed to the point 
> where they would interfere with pedaling. 
>
> The upsides I see would be that they don't increase the width of the bike 
> like panniers do, and maybe the weight would not affect handling as much as 
> a saddlebag. 
>
> Just curious. 
>
>
> Tim "who has bikes with saddlebags, panniers, and handlebar bags" Kirch
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Is tube patching a permanent, reliable fix?

[Bill M.]

I use the plastic patch kit box as the 'anvil', and the rounded end of a 
tire lever to apply the pressure to make sure the patch seals well to the 
tube.  

Also, I leave the clear plastic on the patch if I'm reinstalling 
immediately.  That makes sure I don't pull the patch free.  If using the 
patched tube as a spare, I'll remove the plastic after the patch has had a 
suitably long time to cure.  Bending the patched area a bit will often open 
up a split in the plastic, so it can be peeled off center-to-edge.  

Bill
Stockton, CA  


On Wednesday, October 4, 2017 at 1:35:39 PM UTC-7, Jon Spangler wrote:
>
>
>
> 2) Rolling over the patch once it is applied to the tube- 
>
>  
>
> a) place the tube on a wide, flat, and hard surface, then
>
>  
>
> b) use a frame or floor pump barrel like a rolling pin and roll across the 
> patch in different directions. 
>
>
>  Rolling the patch like a pie crust helps cement the patch completely, 
> IMHO. Not sure where I learned this step but it seems to help.
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rosco Bubbe step through now configured for winter

[Bill M.]

Probably a Norwegian.  Or a Finn.

Bill
Half Finnish in Stockton, CA 
(where it snows even less than in San Francisco)

On Sunday, October 8, 2017 at 8:11:18 AM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> I wanna know who was the first person to winter in Minn. and then looked 
> around and thought to himself, "Yeah. This'll be a great place to settle.".

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[RBW] Re: Wildlife; rain; load

[Bill M.]

And it didn't come back, no re-egrets.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Friday, September 29, 2017 at 1:31:24 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> My greatest egret was the one that flew away!
>
> With grinning abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, September 28, 2017 at 1:03:29 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Three separate and very minor incidents, but worth a brief account.
>>
>> 1. (a) White heron, flapping up from the acequia ditch as I rode back 
>> south the other day on the ditch road on (Riv content) the '03 Curt. We've 
>> plenty of blue/gray herons, attracted over the last 5-6 years, I daresay, 
>> by the City-built wetlands reserves, but this is the very first pure white 
>> one I've seen. Majestic!
>>
>> (b) Coyote -- as I turned north this morning at 11 am on my (Riv content) 
>> '03 Curt, a big western one, *right smack dab in the middle *of the busy 
>> access road that runs N/S between my little bosque infill neighborhood and 
>> the shopping center fronting Coors Blvd. They''ve been very close this 
>> year; our little neighborhood (40 houses, mostly semidetached, as the 
>> British say) backs up against the bosque, and this year you can hear them 
>> in the evening howling right up into the commons area. 
>>
>> I am going to buy a slingshot; I walk my dogs -- craven 7 year old 
>> Chihuahua, Nico, and hyper 2 year old mutt Perry -- along that road, and 
>> where 1 coyote will appear singly just to look around, a pack may appear if 
>> there is likely prey. 
>>
>> These are big western coyotes; the size of a malnourished German Shepherd.
>>
>> 2. I actually got to wear my Campmore rain cape yesterday! Hurrah! I 
>> didn't get to use the new rain hat (not Grundens; this is a much cheaper 
>> one, but a brand name and very well made; about $25 IIRC), 'cause it wasn't 
>> raining that hard, but as I took a 10 mile detour yestiddy to pick up the 
>> car from the mechanic's, it started doing more than spitting, and I was 
>> able to enjoy the cape for a good 5-6 miles. When your side of town gets an 
>> average of less than 9" a year, you take your pleasure where you can.
>>
>> ABQ's monsoon has shifted north from late June thru August to late July 
>> thru late September -- very long and heavy (for us) rain over the last 
>> couple of days; 7/10" last night, which is, around here, practically Noah's 
>> flood. More predicted today and tomorrow, but on today's ride, tho' I took 
>> cape and hat, it was sunny.
>>
>> 3. Load, again, '03 Curt. 55 lb back from the walking distance 
>> Albertson's, in front Sports Packers and rear Roller Packers; included a 
>> 12-pack of IPA , gal milk, and a $20 lb special of 8 lb of various 
>> industrially grown MEATS ($2.50/lb overall). My biggest load previously, in 
>> rears only, was 45 lb, and I grunted that up a very steep, 4/10 mile long 
>> hill in a 67" gear at 20 rpm on that Motobecane.
>>
>> BTW: this is a good read:
>>
>> https://orionmagazine.org/article/the-agrarian-standard/
>>
>> And while I think of books: Not quite "Just Ride," but I checked out 
>> (Kindle) a very well written book, "Half Man, Half Bike ..." by The 
>> Guardian's cycling columnis, Will Fotheringham. *Very* well written, and 
>> a good read even if, as I, you have never raced.
>>
>> The Brits just write better than we Americans. (Another is "Gironimo", by 
>> another British journalist, his account of resurrecting a more or less 
>> period machine and riding, with many a travail and much retrospective 
>> humor, the extensive and often obliterated route of the 1914. Giro d'Italia.
>>
>> Both, and many other interesting cycling books, available for Kindle on 
>> Amazon.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
>> *
>> ***
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: First generation Rosco Bubbe Mixte for sale (bump, new pictures)

[Bill M.]

I'd be interested in the rack if you would be willing to sell it 
separately.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 at 5:26:37 PM UTC-7, Orc wrote:
>
> I've got a never-used-as-anything-except-a-fitting-template first 
> generation Rosco Bubbe mixte taking up space in my bike mess that I'd love 
> to pass on.I comped it when I smudged the fork while building a rack 
> for it (I was able to buff the smudge out so it's not noticeable) but it's 
> not my size.
>
>
> What I'm selling is the frame, the fork, the headset, an ancient kalloy 
> stem (used, circa 1989), a shimano BB (used; un26, I think?), a 600ex 
> crankset (used; 6206, but fitted as a compact double), seatpost, a Brooks 
> Flyer (used & broken in), and a custom 10x8 front rack as shown.
>
>
> Does $1100 + shipping seem like a good price?
>
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
> -david parsons
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for GPS computers?

[Bill M.]

I use a Garmin Vivoactive HR to integrate HRM, speed/time/distance/climb 
and route tracking.  Sometimes I wear it on my wrist, sometimes strap it to 
the handlebar and use a 'bra strap' HR belt.  My wife likes that the Live 
Track feature of the Garmin software (running on my phone) can show my 
location to her during the ride.  She worries about that kind of thing, 
having had to pick me up once on a ride when I was having what turned out 
to be a heart attack.  I use the HRM to make sure I don't over-stress my 
ticker on those days when I feel strong.
  
Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, August 24, 2017 at 2:44:03 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Next in the series (
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/what$20do$20rivendell$20riders%7Csort:relevance
> ):
>
> What do you all use for gps units on your bikes?
>
> I am looking for minimal features:
>
> total distance
> trip distance
> climbing feet
>
>
> That is all I need. Nuttin' fancy.
> I don't care about speed, in fact i don't even want or need to see it.
>
>
> *In fact, the only reason I want a GPS is to not have wireless sensors on 
> my bike.*
>
> I know that Sigma makes a minimal one. Was wondering if anyone knows of 
> other makers besides Garmin, Sigma, Cateye.
>

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[RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Bill M.]

This may have to do with some dealings with the Tolkien estate.  IIRC Grant 
agreed to stop using middle-Earthian related names for any new products but 
was allowed to keep the company name.  So, customs under the Rivendell name 
and the Legolas are grandfathered, but new products get names like Clem and 
Homer.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 5:29:21 AM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
>
> Riv is the only bike company I know where the stock bike model names get 
> first billing on the down tube. 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 200 miles on 10 bikes, an essentially pointless self-challenge

[Bill M.]

Bill,

How does the Niner handle with a small load in the rando bag?  

Bill
Stockton, CA


On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:54:30 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> A couple weeks back I posted a photo of my Hillborne at the top of Grizzly 
> Peak in the Berkeley Hills, overlooking the East Bay, but you can't see 
> anything because the fog had covered everything.  Yesterday, it was so 
> foggy that it was raining HARD under every tree, there was so much water in 
> the air.  Today, the fog was on it's way to burning off.  You still can't 
> see the East Bay below, but you can see that the sky is blue:
>
>
> 
>
>
> As you can see I have my front detachable lowriders attached along with a 
> pair of Ostrich Panniers.  There are still very few carbon forks that can 
> take a pannier rack, and that's one of the reasons I bought this Niner. 
>  Today I brought the panniers because I need to clean out my locker and 
> take a few other things home with me, since this is my last day of work 
> ahead of a six week sabbatical.  I intend to do the full 40 mile ride back 
> home tonight.  This will get me up to ~800 miles total.  With some 
> determination, I can spend the last few days of August rounding out my 
> first 1000 mile calendar month maybe ever.  
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
>  Anyway, here's Sam, on my morning 40 mile commute through the East Bay 
>> Hills, with Fog-gust in full effect. 
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: New Clem L

[Bill M.]

Joe,

I have a 27.2 seatpost in my Clem, with an aluminum shim.  Works perfectly. 
 Shims are only a few bucks, if you have a nice standard post around you 
might go that way. 

Bill
Stockton, CA


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Re: [RBW] Re: Boulder Tips

[Bill M.]

Whiskey is beer concentrate, a much more portable potable.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 4:26:22 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Ha! To make whiskey, make beer, then distill it. Thus, prepubescent 
> whiskey is beer.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 5:15:03 PM UTC-6, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On 08/15/2017 07:13 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote: 
>> > Colorado is microbrew haven for the prepubescent whisky. Enjoy! If you 
>> > find yourself down Colorado Springs' way, holler! 
>>
>> Now that doesn't mean moonshine, does it? 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Mustache/ Albastache on a clem

[Bill M.]

'Staches would not be a good fit IMO.  Even on a bike with a 'normal' TT 
length they require a short stem.  This is why there's a choco bar - not as 
much rise or sweep as a Bosco, but much more pull-back than a moustache.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Friday, August 11, 2017 at 2:01:23 PM UTC-7, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> Anyone riding with this set up? As I ride my clem more I find its quite a 
> bit quicker than you expect. I dont think drops would be a good move but 
> maybe some stachios.
>

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[RBW] Re: How do you guys do it, buying a bike sight unseen

[Bill M.]

All I can say is, you do your diligence, take your best educated shot at a 
bike that will work, and accept that if it doesn't work out you will either 
have to live with it or sell it along and take some financial loss.  I 
think of it as the fee for the education I've gotten by riding the bike - 
if I didn't like it, I have at least learned why and won't buy that again.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, August 10, 2017 at 2:08:54 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> I hopped right on the Roadini.  Since it's a pre-order with a wait, a 
> tinge of worry has creeped in. I've never bought a bike before taking a 
> spin on it let alone not being able to touch it or a pre-order.  Will I 
> like it, will parts selection be a pain in the butt, what if it rides like 
> my drop bar touring bike, look at that shiny titanium thing over 
> thereblah blah blah
>
> Should've grabbed that $1600 minty choco-bar orange Sam...nah I wanted 
> something roadieish
>

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[RBW] Re: To shim or not to shim?

[Bill M.]

I have no problems using a shim.  0.010" brass shim stock is a perfect 
thickness to mate 25.4 bars to a 26.0 stem.  I got a piece at my local 
hardware store.  It's soft and malleable enough to open up and slip over 
the bar easily.  I round the corners to make sure there are no sharp edges 
to scratch the bar or the mechanic.  Once the shim is cut and rolled the 
tie difference in installing or removing the bars is negligible.  Don't let 
the need for a shim drive your bar decision, get the right bar and shim if 
needed.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Monday, May 29, 2017 at 8:16:19 AM UTC-7, Sheldon Rothenberg wrote:
>
> I seek  wisdom on the mysteries of shims. I get that shims are a device 
> that enable one to use different dimensioned handlebars for your bike. Does 
> using one compromise safety or integrity? Would using one make it harder 
> for a klutzy non-mechanic to remove handlebars for shipping and reinstall 
> as in packing a bike for shipment and unpacking for the ride?
>
> The context is my preparing for an overseas bike camping trip. The 
> moustache handlebars (handlbar mustache shaped)that are on my Rivendell 
> All-Rounder are not very compatible with my Ortlieb handlebar bag. In 
> looking for alternative handlebars that would give more clearance and  have 
> slight drops  in-between road and mountain bars, I  found different but 
> suitable bars from two sources. A Nitto model sold by Rivendell would 
> require a shim. A one sold and made by Velo-Orange would not. In other 
> words, should I make shim or non-shim a deciding factor or is it irrelevant 
> in ease of packing and unpacking?
>
>
> Shelley
>

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[RBW] Re: Fenders - worth the safety risks? Rethinking my fender use.

[Bill M.]

I remember Bike Snob posting something about riding in NYC like "Fenders, 
because if you're lucky it's only urine".

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Friday, May 26, 2017 at 7:37:53 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> I run full metal fenders on my AHH and installed Portland Design Works 
> safety tabs on the front and the rear. Thankfully, so far I have not needed 
> them! Before you go fenderless remember that riding in rural areas puts you 
> in contact with manure...add a bit of rain and look out!
>
> When I used to commute into Philadelphia full time, I once was forced to 
> follow a leaky, smelly, garbage truck for a couple of blocks. It was 
> August, mid 90's and high humidity. You get the picture.  Due to traffic I 
> could not avoid the stream of foul, brown liquid leaking on the road way. 
> The bike smelled awful but a quick wash and it was all good. I can only 
> imagine having that spray on to me, my clothes, the rest of my bike! 
> I have not owned a fenderless road bike since and never will.
>
>
> On Friday, May 26, 2017 at 10:06:05 AM UTC-4, Alex Wirth- Owner, Yellow 
> Haus Bicycles wrote:
>
>> With regard to the sweating, my tongue in cheek answer is buy a rain cape 
>> and ride below your sweat threshold (slow).  I understand that isn't 
>> everybody's gig though.  I vote to keep the fenders and maybe get some 
>> safety tabs to keep your mind at ease.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: OT: Japanese Woodworking

[Bill M.]

It all comes down to two joints, dovetail and mortise and tenon.  If you 
can attain reasonable mastery of those you will be ready for most anything. 
 Much more easily said than done.

As for books, search Amazon for Japanese Joinery and you'll find many 
choices.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 4:03:43 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> My general approach has become far more clear. There is plenty of 
> information available on Japanese tools, but not much on joinery specifics. 
> Thus my plan is:
>
> -- use Japanese tools because they are designed for using on the floor 
> (angles, cutting on the pull rather than push, etc).
> -- use standard western joinery that I can find easily as I learn Japanese 
> joinery as I find it.
>
> This is likely a good thing as just looking as some of those Japanese 
> joints boggles me poor wee brain. Sardonic grin.
>
> Eric, the place in Maine no longer Japanese joinery.
>
> Takashi -- I'd imagine you grew up with "floor living"? (and likely just 
> considered it "living).
>
> Garth. Ha! Aye, all cultures floor lived, until their royalty sat in 
> chairs and other emulated it. Grin.
>
> Mike -- thanks! Fascinating looking book.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 5:34:08 AM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>
>> Thank you, gents! Update: I've talked with both Hida Tool (excellent 
>> resource and my choice for tools). They suggested I talk with the guy who 
>> only comes in Saturdays, so I will. and Japanese Wood Worker (now owned by 
>> Wood Craft, so kind of like getting help on timber framing at Home Depot). 
>> Eric, I'll check out woodworking Magazine and the Center for Furniture 
>> Craftsmanship in Maine. I've also made contact with Jay van Arsdale and Hap 
>> Stanley (of shapton.com sharpeners), so we'll see where that goes.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 12:12:19 PM UTC-6, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>>>
>>> Does anyone know good books or online resources or someone willing to 
>>> share the craft via video conference? If so, could you please email me off 
>>> group (lamontglen [at} mac dot com)?
>>>
>>> Since we floor live it’s hard to find furniture. Since I’ve been able to 
>>> work in my own bike shop, we’ve wondered if this is the next step of brain 
>>> therapy.
>>>
>>> Thanks! We now return you to your Riv Bunch programing... 
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> www.CredoFamily.org
>>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: SF Bay Trail Question

[Bill M.]

I looked at the satellite view.  That last curve in the trail follows the 
edge of a parking lot, access to Maritime would be through the lot.  Should 
be no problem.

Bill

On Saturday, April 15, 2017 at 9:30:41 AM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:
>
> As you head up the SF Bay Trail going to the Bay Bridge (not quite on the 
> bridge yet), there is a divergent path that peels off and heads towards 
> Maritime St. Google maps shows the path ending just before Maritime st. 
> Does anyone know if you can continue to Maritime St. or is it a dead end no 
> way to get to Maritime St.?
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: book of possible interest to Rivendell riders

[Bill M.]

Long time audio geek here, but not so much with the tubes and vinyl these 
days.  I my case, it's CD's ripped to a hard drive, streamed to a 
Squeezebox, digits delivered to a 4-way digital crossover feeding multiple 
amps, horn tweeters and high-efficiency woofers and a couple of subs. 
 Lately I've been exploring the headphone world and enjoying them quite a 
bit more than I had in the past.

The comment about audio and bikes rings true with me, the folks I knew back 
in my college years were into both.  The third hobby in that cluster was 
tropical fish.  All of my aquaria are gone, no good place for one in my 
current home.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, March 30, 2017 at 7:29:46 AM UTC-7, Jim S. wrote:
>
> I have been reading a new book that might be of interest to group members: 
> *The 
> Revenge of Analog *by David Sax. So far, the author has discussed the 
> revival of vinyl records just when it appeared that the MP3 had conquered 
> vinyl forever. I think he's going to take it to other areas as well.
>
> I see parallels between a preference for vinyl records and a preference 
> for friction shifting, among other things. (It could be that I just spend 
> too much time thinking about bikes.)
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: N = ? or How do you decide how many bikes to own?

[Bill M.]

Currently in the stable are three that get ridden regularly, two that don't:

Rawland Nordavinden - the current 'gosortafast' bike for weekend group 
rides, 2x10, 32 mm tires.  I have a custom frame on order that will replace 
this one, due this fall.  

Rawland rSogn - randoish build, front bag, 3x8 with a narrow range 
cassette, Hetres - I use this one for solo rides with minimal baggage.

Riv Clem - fat tires, rack, panniers - errand runner / grocery getter / 
occasional fire road cruiser.  

1984 Miyata 1000 - owned since new, will eventually wind up at the family 
homestead in Mendocino county to encourage me to get up there more often.
>
>
Burley Django recumbent - sitting in the shed unridden for several years 
now, I really should sell it.

Bill
Stockton, CA

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Re: [RBW] Re: To each his own

[Bill M.]

This being California, that really should be an S42O.

Bill
What, April 2 already?

On Saturday, April 1, 2017 at 11:45:53 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> Finally! This will be just what I need for my Dead & 
> Co./Riv-visit-ride-Mt. Diablo trip in June! I love it when someone invents 
> something you didn't know you needed but now can't live without. But be 
> careful, that S24O may turn into a S96O...

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[RBW] Re: Clem L (low bar) for longer rides?

[Bill M.]

As a Clem owner, it's not the bike I'd choose for longer, sportier rides on 
pavement.  It's more of a beast of burden.  Have you considered:

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/framesets/products/rosco-bubbe-frameset-51cm

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Monday, March 20, 2017 at 5:09:19 PM UTC-7, Roberta wrote:
>
> For those of you who own this, how do you feel about Clem for longer 
> "exercise" rides--40-50 miles-- that is NOT touring.That is, I won't 
> load the bike with anything other than what I need on a one day 
> jaunt--lunch, flat kit, water, windbreaker, etc.  I don't want a slog of a 
> bike. (yes, I do realize that the "engine" is most important, but this 
> engine has two bikes and I go faster on one vs. the other.)  Most of the 
> area is flat, but in the city park and in some of the suburbs, it is hilly.
>
> I did consider a used Cheviot, but didn't get the sense that it was a 
> "long ride" bike-- a bit too upright.  I could be wrong.
>
> I'm considering a Clem L so I can do (and want to do more often) longer 
> exercise rides.   My minimum ride is 12.5 miles (1 hour) , but I like to go 
> 25 miles (2 hours) each weekend day.  Once or twice a month I'd like to do 
> a longer ride. 
>
> Thanks,
> Roberta, PBH 82.5, 57 YO, trying to get into better health
>

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Bill M.]

I have two Campy Record Triple cranks that I run without outer rings to 
create ultra-compact doubles.  135 mm TA and Stronglight chainrings are 
available from XX Cycle in France.  Bottom brackets are pretty scarce, 
though.  The inner is a standard 74 mm ring.

Many iBOB's will shudder at the thought of a slightly wider q factor than 
they would like.  In my case, my toes point out quite a bit, and the Campy 
arms offer good ankle bone clearance so they fit me well.  

Bill

On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 10:58:28 AM UTC-8, stevef wrote:
>
> Which cranks and rings were those, Bill--I'd like to set up my all road 
> bike with a 44t big/28-32t small crankset and 10 speed shimano road mechs, 
> but I'm having trouble finding a crank that'll work. 
>
> Steve
>
> On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 12:29:31 AM UTC-5, Bill M. wrote:
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:14:48 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>> On 03/08/2017 04:21 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>>
>>> For my next bike, I'm planning on going etap "wireless" with mid-cage 
>>> RD. I want to run 11-32 in the rear with a sub-compact double like a 46x30 
>>> or 46x28.  Since I don't "tour" or carry a load, a 30x32 or 28x32 should be 
>>> more than enough to get me up the hills around here! Of course, YMMV!  Good 
>>> Luck!
>>>
>>> You can help that luck by making sure your frame has a round seat tube 
>>> and uses a clamp on front derailleur.  Which pretty much means a titanium 
>>> frame.
>>>
>>
>> Or a Calfee.  Which, come to think of it, Brewster already owns.
>>
>> I have had no problems mixing SRAM road and mountain 10 speed derailleurs 
>> and shifters with 44/28 and 42/26 cranks and 11/32 or 12/28 cassettes. 
>>  Even on my Calfee, now sadly sold.
>>
>> Bill 
>> Stockton, CA
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Bill M.]

On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:14:48 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 03/08/2017 04:21 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
> For my next bike, I'm planning on going etap "wireless" with mid-cage RD. 
> I want to run 11-32 in the rear with a sub-compact double like a 46x30 or 
> 46x28.  Since I don't "tour" or carry a load, a 30x32 or 28x32 should be 
> more than enough to get me up the hills around here! Of course, YMMV!  Good 
> Luck!
>
> You can help that luck by making sure your frame has a round seat tube and 
> uses a clamp on front derailleur.  Which pretty much means a titanium frame.
>

Or a Calfee.  Which, come to think of it, Brewster already owns.

I have had no problems mixing SRAM road and mountain 10 speed derailleurs 
and shifters with 44/28 and 42/26 cranks and 11/32 or 12/28 cassettes. 
 Even on my Calfee, now sadly sold.

Bill 
Stockton, CA

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[RBW] Re: Vintage Expedition vs. AHH and Atlantis

[Bill M.]

I have a sister to your Expedition, an '84 Miyata 1000.  I'm the original 
owner.  AFAIK Miyata built the Expedition's for Spec.  The geo differs just 
a bit, mostly in the steeper ST angle of the Spec.  The actual geo of my 
Miyata is very close to that of an AHH in the same size.  I have not ridden 
the AHH, but I am sure the Miyata is MUCH stiffer.  I was told BITD that 
the DT was 1.2 mm / 1.0 mm / 1.2 mm with the other tubes in proportion. 
 Not 'planing' territory by any means.  It rides a bit like a brick 
unloaded, but gets pleasantly more lively with a rear load.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, March 2, 2017 at 8:54:55 AM UTC-8, Kevin Lindsey wrote:
>
> Greetings.
> I'm in the process of building up a 1983 Specialized Expedition (which is 
> a really lovely bike).  From a distance, the frame looks to have more or 
> less the same geometry as the AHH or, possibly, the Atlantis.  Does anyone 
> have experience with the vintage Expeditions such that he or she could 
> compare its ride to one of the Rivs? 
> Thanks,
> Kevin Lindsey
> Alexandria, VA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 1997 57cm Rivendell Road, Waterford-built; $1500 OBO

[Bill M.]

On my Road Std., 28 mm Roly Poly's were a tight fit with plastic fenders, 
and 32's were a tight fit without fenders.  Short reach brakes are pretty 
limiting.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 9:26:48 AM UTC-8, Todd Fahrner wrote:
>
> Eh, looking again, I think 32 with fender may be *too* tight unless a 
> funky bridge-interruptor type fender. So 28 is the largest I'd say OK with, 
> say, VO hammered fenders.
>
> -- 
> todd
>
> On Friday, February 10, 2017 at 11:31:25 AM UTC-8, Todd Fahrner wrote:
>>
>> Thank you, Tim, for providing detailed geometry. I confirm this is a 57cm 
>> Road Standard. Prior to actually fitting said tires and fenders, it's hard 
>> to say for sure what will fit, but my good-faith guess is that it will fit 
>> 35s without fender, 32 with fender (tight) and 28 with fenders no problem. 
>> Yes, there are eyelets.
>>
>> Owning a bike shop, can fit these in advance to confirm: you specify 
>> tire/fender; will charge wholesale. It's got 32 Paselas on there now. 
>>
>> -- 
>> todd
>>
>> On Friday, February 10, 2017 at 6:18:00 AM UTC-8, Tim Gavin wrote:
>>>
>>> Here's the geometry sheets for the 1st generation Rivendell frames, 
>>> including the Road Standard.  
>>> http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/gen1/#catalog5 
>>> 
>>>
>>> Tire clearance is supposed to be up to a 700 x 35, but there seems to be 
>>> some variation on this.  My '97 Road Standard 59 cm, for example, has very 
>>> tight tire clearance.  A 700 x 28 barely fits, anything larger will rub.  I 
>>> like it on 650 x 38 wheels, though that results in a very low BB.
>>>
>>> Todd, I'm curious about the tire clearance as well.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> On Fri, Feb 10, 2017 at 7:42 AM, Belopsky  wrote:
>>>
 Can you provide some measurements? What's the biggest tire this will 
 fit? Fender mounts?

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>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Awesome new bars on Blue Lug Blog.

[Bill M.]

That silver bar is a Scott DH, an 80's vintage triathlon aerobar.  IIRC 
"DH" was for the inspiration, the aero tuck of a downhill ski racer. 
 Here's how it should look complete with armrests and bridge piece.  The 
bends were supposed to provide hand positions like conventional tops and 
drops as well as a laid out aero position.  

My friend had one on his Mercian for years.  I hated the thing myself.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 at 5:22:12 PM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote:
>
> I'm talking about this thing and the open ended silver one above which is 
> even more funky. What is it?
>
> [image: Inline image 1]
>
> On Wed, Feb 8, 2017 at 4:43 PM, iamkeith 
> > wrote:
>
>> I'm assuming you're talking about the ones that look like moustache bars 
>> with a lot of extra forward reach in the curves, and that fit mtb style 
>> levers? Interesting for sure.  
>>
>> I have never ordered from them but I think that, if you're in the States, 
>>  it is easier to do from the fairweather site.
>>
>> Here's food for thought, though:
>>
>> I was just recently wanting something like that - a moustache with the 
>> primary position being the one at rear part of the bar.   I'd like to try 
>> chocos, but can't afford them at the moment, and  am kind of concerned 
>> about how narrow they are.   Those blue lug bars don't look much, if any, 
>> wider ... and they have the unfortunate 31.8 clamp area.  
>>
>> I happened to have an extra Surly Open 40mm rise bar.  I turned it upside 
>> down and installed it, and I think it is going to be AWESOME.  (won't know 
>> for sure until the snow melts.)   It looks a LOT like that bar.  It has all 
>> the grip positions of a moustache/albastache bar. takes mountain bike brake 
>> levers, AND is actually wide enough for a change, at 666mm!  And probably 
>> cheaper, too.   It's not silver, but it will be wrapped with handlebar tape 
>> anyway. 
>>
>> Going off-topic now but, when Riv finishes up securing and finalizing 
>> their range of proprietary handlebar designs, this is what I hope they end 
>> up doing:  adding multiple, especially wider,  versions of each.   If it 
>> makes sense to have different widths of noodles and boscos,  then it makes 
>> sense to have different widths of albatross(ish), chocos and albastaches 
>> too, right?  
>>  
>> On Wednesday, February 8, 2017 at 9:47:12 AM UTC-7, Richard Rios wrote:
>>>
>>> Looks like Blue Lug has Riv's new bars or something very close to them 
>>> on sale.  I am thinking about ordering a pair they look great! Anyone order 
>>> from them before?
>>>
>>> https://bluelug.com/blog/kamiuma/84384/
>>>
>>> https://store.bluelug.com/nitto-b356-m-s-bar-black-13739.html
>>>
>>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Off topic question: portable cd players

[Bill M.]

How small do you really need?  Any DVD player will play audio CD's and some 
of them are pretty compact.  Google says you should be able to pick one up 
at Target or Walmart in the $30 range.  I'd rather use a player designed 
for domestic use than a portable, if only for the remote control.

These days I rip all of my CD's, store the files on a small laptop and 
stream them to the stereo via wifi.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Sunday, January 15, 2017 at 2:13:58 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I want a cheap and simple and very small device to plug into my Harman 
> Kardon amplifier/speakers to play Bach and Grateful Dead, but not at the 
> same time. I need it to do nothing except that it play standard music CDs 
> reliably while sitting on top of my cabinet next to the speakers; I don't 
> need bass booster or skip protection. Can anyone recommend something like 
> this?
>
> What about this one? At least, it has a good Fakespot rating.
>
> Thanks. Better reply offlist to bert...@gmail.com .
>
> Riv content: I have most of Dylan's albums ("Albums". There's a term from 
> the 78 rpm past!) but Jerry Garcia at his post psychedelic best ought to be 
> criterion enough.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VADPHY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza 
> 
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYUtTuxf5LU&list=RD7AbF26nldtQ&index=4
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Front Low-rider Panniers on Rambouillet?

[Bill M.]

Nordavinden has much LESS trail due to the 70 mm fork offset, down around 
31 mm.  It's not designed to carry much of a load, just a front rando-style 
bag.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Saturday, December 31, 2016 at 8:00:13 AM UTC-8, Dick Denning wrote:
>
> Kieran: 
>
> I went on a 5 day fully loaded tour on my orange 58cm Rambouillet back in 
> September.  It was the tenth annual fall tour I take every year with a few 
> riding buddies.  Had a Jandd hooped low rider rack held onto the stock fork 
> blades with P-clamps.  I used full sized rear panniers on each side of the 
> rack and had 15-17lbs in each pannier.  Also had a VO rack that held and 
> supported my Sackville handlebar bag.  Used an old Adam (Rivendell bag) in 
> combo with a Bagman off my saddle and carried my tent in the bag.  Used 
> Gran Bois Cerf (28mm - but measure more like 30mm) tires with VO Fluted 
> fenders.
>
> I was very happy with the way the way the bike rode and with the weight 
> low didn't get an annoying amount of wheel flop.  
> Not tons of clearance between the tires and the fenders, but enough to get 
> by.  This was the first time I rode the Ramb for camping, much less with a 
> front load.  I've camped with other front load setups and very much prefer 
> it to a rear load bias.  I thought the Ramb rode great and will 
> absolutely use the same set up for future tours.  I weight about 160lbs.  
>
> Like you, I've thought about having my Ramb modified with a different fork 
> (a bit more trail, room for more tire, mid stay eyelets..), having the rear 
> brake bridge raised, etc., but haven't gotten to it.
>
> For comparison, I rode a 57cm Nordavinden on the prior year's tour with 
> the same set up (less tire b/c the Norda had even less clearance than the 
> Ramb) and didn't care for it as much as the Ramb.  The ride was too noodly, 
> there wasn't  enough tire width under me, and maybe it had too much(?) 
> trail as the Norda's have a lot of fork offset (70mm?). 
>
> Kai from Brooklyn is right.  Side to side balance is what matters.  I had 
> a total of 40-45lbs of stuff on this years tour and had all but maybe 10lbs 
> on the front end between the panniers and my h-bar bag.
>
> Hope this helps. 
>
> Dick
>
>  
>
> On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 at 4:24:49 PM UTC-5, Kieran J wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Hope everyone is having a nice holiday season!
>>
>> I'm curious about how the Rambouillet handles with different configs of a 
>> front load. I've only ever really used a small Swift Bandito up on the 
>> handlebar, but never anything more substantial. 
>>
>> Have any Ram owners ever: 
>>
>>- somehow run low-rider panniers on the stock fork?
>>- run low-rider panniers and an additional front bag on the stock 
>>fork?
>>- had success with an aftermarket fork with a different trail figure?
>>
>> Long story, I'm thinking of having a couple mods done to my Ram and new 
>> powder done (the Creamsicle is cool, but doesn't match anything - 
>> especially not all the red clothing I have). I would consider adding 
>> mid-fork eyelets if running front low-riders appears to work well for the 
>> bike.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Kieran
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 46-30 crank on an unloaded road bike

[Bill M.]

What about the 50/34 does not suit your needs?

For me, a 50/34 left me riding cross-chained too often.  I have since used 
46/30, 44/28 and 42/26 combinations that let me run on the big ring in the 
middle of the cassette most of the time, with the small ring as a bail out 
when I have to climb something steepish.  That works much better for me.  

My rule of thumb: IIRC Eddie Merckx rode a 52 x 14 gear to set his hour 
record - 100 inches spinning 100 RPM for 30 MPH. My current 'sportiest' 
bike runs 44/28 x 12-28 for a 99 inch top gear.  Your proposed 46 x 11 = 
113 inches is probably plenty (!) for most "casual" rides.  

Top gear doesn't matter much to me.  When I was able to ride much more 
aggressively, I had a Calfee with Campy, and to get a low enough bottom 
gear for our steepest hills I was stuck with 50/34 x 13-29 gearing (didn't 
want to spend the $ to go to 11 speed just to get a 12 on top).  I did spin 
out of that 104 inch top gear once in a while on descents, but at that 
speed I would just tuck and coast and didn't really lose ground on the 
group.  I hated the 50/34 combo on the flats.

Bill

On Sunday, January 1, 2017 at 6:27:35 AM UTC-8, Call Me Jay wrote:
>
> It looks like 46-30 cranks are a favorable of RBW owners (I've reviewed 
> the group archive).  I'm interested in getting the insight of folks that 
> are using them in moderately hilly terrain on an unloaded road bike.  I 
> live in northern Connecticut and occasionally
> do mixed surface rides but bike isn't a "gravel bike"---second hand short 
> reach custom road with 11-30 cassette and 700x30 tires.  Is it worth a swap 
> from a 50-34?  Should I just toughen up and join Zwift? While most of my 
> road riding is solo or with my young kids, will I be under geared on casual 
> club rides?  Will the less aggressive gearing be too much overlap with 
> other bikes in my Riv stash---Homer with a triple; Legolas on order that 
> I'm planning on specing with a 46-28 as a pure dirt road/CX bike?
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem / long CS CROW PIE!

[Bill M.]

Apparently the Big One / S One are already gone, replaced by the G-One 
Speed and G-One Allround.  Not sure what has changed besides the names...

Bill
Riding 60-584 Big Ones on a Clem in Stockton,CA

On Thursday, December 29, 2016 at 7:20:10 PM UTC-8, franklyn wrote:
>
> 26" tires are plentiful, but 650b/27.5 tires, especially dirt ones, are no 
> longer a scarcity. All the major tire makers have multiple lines for 
> multiple uses. I was on a online retailer's website and there was more than 
> 150 different options. And they don't make some newer fancy tires in 26" 
> anymore. For example, schwalbe's new Big One/S One tires, which are either 
> 60 or 70mm wide, weighs less than 600g per, and have low rolling 
> resistance, are only available in 29" and 27.5. 
>
> Just saying
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar suggestions for the Hunq

[Bill M.]

Moustache is a no, won't fix your issues and besides it doesn't take the 
MTB parts.  Alba is nice for a grocery getter, I wouldn't like it on 
rocky/rooty trails.  I had a Jones Loop, the angle was just wrong for me 
and I didn't use most of the theoretical hand positions.  I like the On-One 
Mary, which is similar to some of the other bars mentioned.  Fairly 
inexpensive as an experiment, and will fit a standard stem.  I started off 
with the Mary on my Clem.  I'm currently using it strictly in town and 
swapped to an Alba, but should I get the chance to get it dirty next summer 
I'll likely swap back to Mary. 

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Friday, December 23, 2016 at 2:32:53 PM UTC-8, Tim wrote:
>
> I have 150mm Nitto Bullmoose bars on the 58cm Hunqapillar. They are level 
> with the saddle (at the max extension), bar-ends mounted to thumbies, cork 
> grips. They don't work for me. Hand numbness ensues in a very, very short 
> time. I have now and again numbness with my noodle bars on my three other 
> bikes (all with bars at saddle height), that goes away easily with a 
> different hand position. So I have a set of the old-type Riv/Nitto 
> Moustache (not Albastache) bars, or some Albatross bars (which I'm swapping 
> for Noodles on the GFs Sam). Or I could choose the Bosco or Choco. I'll use 
> the Hunq for some rocky/rooty, kind of technical singletrack, hauling 
> groceries, maybe a few days on the Katy Trail, you get the picture. I will 
> ditch the cork grips but would like to keep the thumbies and MTB brakes. 
> Which way would you go? 

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[Bill M.]

It's fine if I click on it to display it in another window.

Bill

On Wednesday, December 7, 2016 at 10:56:19 AM UTC-8, ian m wrote:
>
> I just realized the picture I posted is strangely squished, don't know how 
> that happened. Still not sure how that would equate to thinking it was 
> stretched beyond the tension bolt

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[RBW] Re: Affordable Roadeo?--Blue Rosco-Road Frameset!

[Bill M.]

I wonder how much this foreshadows the Roadini?

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Monday, December 5, 2016 at 12:13:44 PM UTC-8, ttoshi wrote:
>
> I was at RBW HQ the other day and rode the Blue Rosco-Road Frameset.  My 
> PBH is too small for the bike, but Grant wanted me to try a bike with 
> longer chainstays and wow, was that bike awesome!
>
> It was super stable with the long chainstays, but really responsive to 
> weight shifts and steering.  It's a wonderful color too; so for that price, 
> if that bike fits, and you are looking for a road Riv, then you should buy 
> it!
>
> This is coming from a Roadeo/AHH/Rambouillet rider.
>
> Best,
> Toshi
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Holiday Saddle question

[Bill M.]

John,

I own and have ridden B17's, a Rivet Pearl Ti and an 
first-year-of-production SA.  They are quite different, and for me suit 
different purposes .  

The Rivet is narrow through the waist and nose, which eliminates a lot of 
thigh rub, but also makes it ride like a narrower saddle than the others 
though they measure the same at the widest point.  For me, that was great 
for my road/sport bike with bars a bit below the saddle, but doesn't work 
for me at all on a bike with something like Albatross bars and an upright 
position.  I rode the Pearl happily for several years though I'm trying 
something very different right now on the road bike (an SMP).

On the road bike the wider nose of a B17 gets in my way, but sitting more 
upright that becomes less of a problem.  I have one on my Clem (actually a 
Flyer at the moment) and it's pretty comfortable there.  I also slot the 
center of my Brookses and lace the skirts in tight, I can't ride one 
unmodified.

As delivered the SA was horrible for thigh rub, so it didn't take long for 
me to drill and lace mine.  It's made to fit like a hammock, so I can't 
ride it at all on the road bike, too much nose pressure.  Sitting very 
upright it became very comfortable for me.  The leather stretched a lot but 
finally stabilized.  Unfortunately I set it too far back on a seatpost with 
a short clamp, and the result was bent rails.  After bending the rails back 
twice I have now retired the saddle.  The are supposed to have improved the 
rails since mine was made, I can't vouch for that personally.

So, IMO, choose carefully based on your use and position on the bike - 
forward lean and pelvis rolled forward => Rivet, upright => SA.  Either way 
don't be afraid to carve or lace to suit.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Monday, December 5, 2016 at 8:46:51 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the feedback everyone.  I'm glad I asked.  Between the 
> lukewarm to bad reports on the SA and the glowing reviews I found in 
> previous posts about Rivet, I think I'll hold off and spend the extra money 
> for the Rivet.  I was leaning that way anyway since I had met the woman who 
> runs Rivet at NAHBS and she was really great.  The whole company seemed 
> similar to Riv in their values.  Guess I should have followed that instinct 
> instead of getting cheap about something so crucial to a positive biking 
> experience.  Get what you pay for and all that...
>
> Thanks again.
> John
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2016 at 10:22:48 PM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>>
>> I received an email from Selle Anatomica that all their saddles were on 
>> sale for $99 during the holidays.  I had thought about the X-series in the 
>> past to replace my B17.  The goal was to get a saddle with a cutout. 
>>  Others I had been considering were the Brooks C17 Carved and the Rivet 
>> Pearl.  I like the Rivet and don't know much about the C17 carved but was 
>> wondering if the SA was worth trying while it is $50-60 less.  I've read 
>> people raving about the Rivet saddles here but also thought I remember some 
>> people complaining about the SA saddles sagging pretty quickly.  Any 
>> thoughts comparing these 3 choices?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Poster post

[Bill M.]

A local winery took their name and used this image in their labeling:




IIRC they took pride in their wines having been barred from sale somewhere 
in the south (Alabama?) due to the label.  The tasting room was a stop on 
our fall cycling / wine tasting tour, the Giro di Vino.

Bill
Stockton, CA (just south of the Lodi / Woodbridge appelation)

On Friday, November 18, 2016 at 11:27:45 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I picked this one up at Goodwill some 10 years ago, already framed. It has 
> hung in my garage ever since. 
>
> (I conscientiously assured the other shoppers and the checkout clerk that 
> I was interested in the *bicycle.*)
>
> [image: Inline image 1] 
>
> Does anyone know where I can get these:
>
>
> http://www.nzoactive.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Gino-Bartali-Tour-de-France-1948-winner-Legnano-bike-Campagnolo-Cambia-Corsa-groupset.jpg
>
>
> http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ERxywogDj9Y/TKdA-IQdrPI/Anw/JGG0CNp-H6I/s1600/CCE2.jpg
>
>
> On Friday, November 18, 2016 at 12:06:01 PM UTC-5, MartyG wrote:
>
>  > Finally had a chance to frame a poster I picked up from a book shop 
> near Chicago when Grant was on his book tour. They were going to pitch it, 
> and I was happy to save it from that fate. I thought it would be cool to 
> see what posters you have hanging around. Post your posters here!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Road Standard - spreading the stays?

[Bill M.]

My 1995 Road Standard was built to 128 mm spacing to accommodate either 126 
or 130 mm hubs.  I believe they were all that way.  Double check your 
spacing with an accurate caliper, if it's 128 I would just install a 130 
wheel and be happy.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Saturday, November 12, 2016 at 4:36:10 PM UTC-8, Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> I have a Rivendell Road Standard that I really like, but I am disappointed 
> with the current wheelset.  The stays are currently spaced at 126 and 
> normally I wouldn't hesitate to spread them to 130mm to open up more 
> options,  but I fear what I have read about 753 tubing.  On the other hand, 
> I have read that the Road Standard used thicker tubing than most 753 
> frames, so I wonder if this makes it more suitable to spreading...or less 
> so.  In short, has anyone here spread their R.S. stays and used them 
> without failure?
>
> Thanks,
> Matt B.
> Oswego, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr with Alternate Handlebars? - Choco-moose

[Bill M.]

I'm currently using Alba's on my 52 cm Clem, but have also used On-One 
Mary's for a little more forward position.  I like the Alba's in town, but 
would probably use the Mary's if I spent more miles on fire roads or 
unpaved trails.  I have only test-ridden the Boscos at Riv, as I bought 
mine as a frameset, but they were a bit too high and close for me.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 at 6:48:02 PM UTC-7, mike smith wrote:
>
> Has anyone changed handlebars on the CSJ?  I like the current bars but I'm 
> too upright? 59cm Frame.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: B17 Flyer on drop bar Atlantis

[Bill M.]

For me, bounce is the operative word.  Over bigger bumps the Flyer will 
bounce enough to launch my butt off of the saddle.  That's what happens 
when you have springs with no damping.  Kind of useless off-pavement IMO, 
but it does add some comfort on reasonably paved roads.  I put mine into 
service every so often (it's on my Clem right now) but eventually decide 
it's not worth the extra weight and off it comes again.

Bill

On Friday, October 21, 2016 at 6:15:51 PM UTC-7, René wrote:
>
> This might seem like a dumb question, but I've only seen sprung saddles, 
> such as the B-17 Flyer or the B-67 on upright bikes like the Cheviot, and 
> in fact I really like the B67 I installed on it. 
>
> However, I'm wondering if anyone uses the B-17 Flyer on a dropbar touring 
> bike where the bars are level or 1" higher than the saddle.
>
> Enlighten me!
>
> René 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Berthoud Saddles

[Bill M.]

Don,

Why don't you take my custom-carved B17 out for a spin?  Cutting out the 
middle makes a huge difference, there's no material there to create a hump. 
 In any case, I'll have it out of service for now ( I'll be trying 
something quite different on my Rawland, an SMP Hybrid is due to arrive on 
Thursday) so it won't be a problem for me.  For that matter, I have an 
Imperial available, too.  It's not like I'm far away!  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 12:42:55 PM UTC-7, Don Compton wrote:
>
> I've been a Rivendell fan for years having owned 4 different bikes. I used 
> B-17 saddles for years, but with wear, as the area under my sit bones would 
> settle, the hump in the saddle( running for-aft) would cause extreme 
> discomfort. I just had to give up on Brooks. I have been using a Secialized 
> Phenom for about a year, but it's not so great on longer rides like I 
> remember my Brooks in the early years of ownership. Has anyone with issues 
> similar to mine switched over to a Berthoud saddle and felt some 
> improvement?
>

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[RBW] Re: Which bikes should Rivendell keep selling?

[Bill M.]

Sorry, can't agree.  The Roadeo is set up to maximize clearance with a 
standard reach caliper.  Stretching it to bigger rubber would mean 
different brakes, and basically make it a slightly lighter Hilsen.  Too 
much overlap there.  IMO 28 - 33 mm is a sweet spot for a fast, 
comfortable, paved road, club-sport-not-quite-a-racing bike.  

I've been thinking about having a custom frame built.  Every time I take a 
stab at the geometry I'd want, then nudge it back to what can actually be 
built without running into clearance problems, I wind up with something 
that might as well be a Roadeo.

As for what Riv should keep, IMO the core is:
Roadeo
Atlantis
Homer
Sam
Anything else could rotate in and out of the batting order.  Can one bike 
sit in the middle of the Hunq/Joe/Clem/Cheviot space as an affordable rough 
stuff / commuter / shopper / budget tourer / lowered top tube bike?

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, September 14, 2016 at 7:33:58 PM UTC-7, Will wrote:
>
>  If any bike in the line-up needs an update, it's Roadeo. Tires options 
> are much better these days. It would be nice if Roadeo was configured to 
> take more rubber.   
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Fantasyland Daydream: Ti "Riv"

[Bill M.]

" My friend Dustin had it made from the ‘cross model with touring geometry 
– made to mimic the geometry of the Rivendell Atlantis", so there you go. 
 Nice bike!

On Saturday, August 27, 2016 at 10:54:05 PM UTC-7, Esteban wrote:
>
> You mean like this? Custom Black Sheep - clearance for 2.1, can it posts, 
> bars even with saddle...
>
> https://flic.kr/p/bEWNqd
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Thinking of a Riv

[Bill M.]

Just a side note - one thing I like about SRAM is that their road and 
mountain parts play nicely with each other.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 7:38:33 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> I've been thinking of getting a Rivendell bicycle for a long time.  I 
> first joined this group to lurk back in 2010 and have been a member and 
> sometimes lurker since then.  But, I had not made the commitment and 
> purchased a Riv.  The closest I came was getting a Velo-Orange Rando.  That 
> was sort of rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157624827193423
>
> Being in the suburbs of Chicago near O'Hare airport limited my comfort 
> using it the way it should have been.  That bike was sold before I left 
> Chicago to live full-time in an RV.  Once we decided to settle in 
> Anacortes, WA (still in the RV), I purchased a Specialized AWOL Comp, 
> definitely not rivish.  
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/timbutterfield/sets/72157644371355428
>
> It's a nice bike, but I now want something more rivish, this time, the 
> real thing.  I'm thinking of getting either the Roadeo or the A Homer 
> Hilsen.  I like the idea of the liveliness and sportiness of the Roadeo, 
> but like the bit of extra versatility of the AHH also.  With my weight at 
> 200+ (PBH 33" or 83.8cm, age 51), I'm leaning towards the AHH instead of 
> the Roadeo.  I can start more roadish with the AHH and, as I build my 
> abilities further, expand the bike to fit new and/or different tasks 
> without having to change frames.
>
> So, I'm fairly settled on getting my first Riv, one of the two mentioned. 
>  My pondering now is mostly on how to appoint it.  My Rando was more modern 
> with the 105 setup.  The AWOL was definitely modern with discs and SRAM 
> setup.  But, I'm not tied to that.  Though I haven't used it much, I like 
> the looks of a quill stem, drop bars, and downtube shifters.  It looks 
> clean and simple.  I'm just not sure what it's like to live with.  I expect 
> that, like many things, it is a matter of adapting to it.  But, using DT 
> shifters or bar ends does set a direction as neither would work with an 
> 11-speed I could have instead.  I'm trying to consider the pros and cons of 
> each.
>
> With my AWOL, I leave it locked to the cabana just outside my RV.  Some 
> RVs have sufficient inside storage for a bike.  Mine doesn't.
>
> My questions to the group are these:  As I am not yet doing longer 
> distances, are there still benefits to the more traditional setups?  If I 
> pick either one, what might I later miss the other may have provided?  Are 
> there likely to be any weather related or other wear issues leaving a Riv 
> locked to the RV park cabana like I do my AWOL?  I'm doubtful of that, but 
> don't want to mistreat it either.  Any thing else I should consider?
>
> Thanks for any advice you have.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Big One on Appaloosa

[Bill M.]

I ran them on a Rawland rSogn, but they will next be mounted on a Clem.  I 
took delivery of a green 52 frameset a couple of weeks ago, pictures to 
come one of these days.  

Bill

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 11:26:16 PM UTC-7, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Bill in Stockton, what model of bike are you running them on? 
>
> David, does the Clem have similar clearance to the Appaloosa? 
>
> Ray 
> Vallejo Ca

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Big One on Appaloosa

[Bill M.]

BIg Ones are made for a very defined purpose - beach racing.  I would not 
expect Schwalbe to make a narrower version, that does not fit the intent of 
the tire.  Those of us running them on the street are like doctors 
prescribing drugs off-label, it may work but it's not the intended use.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 1:48:54 AM UTC-7, William R. wrote:
>
> I often wonder about these too. And Super Moto's. As it is I am running 54 
> Thunderburts on my Joe. A heavily used (stretched out) one on the stock 
> build rim measures 52.3mm and doesn't have a ton of clearance. Enough. But 
> I am thinking Big Ones or SMs would be tight indeed. I still wonder what 
> the nominal width of these tires on these rims is. Also wonder about the 
> size gap in Schwalbes high performance slick/semi slick tire lines. Why not 
> 48 and 54 Kojaks, Motos and/or Big Ones? Just one of those in those sizes 
> would be awesome!
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Olympic Bike Racing, Cobbles, and tire width

[Bill M.]

Both badminton and rugby are played professionally, though not so much in 
the US.  Same for team handball and table tennis.

Trivia:  The US has never medaled in only three current Olympic events - 
table tennis, team handball and badminton.  We took golds in rugby back in 
the 1920's.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 3:56:02 PM UTC-7, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> probably the only true amateur sports are like badminton or maybe 
> rugby. Basically, any sport that is even semi-commercial are going to have 
> pro athletes. Good Luck! 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: If you were going to design a poor man's faux Riv "just ride" bicycle ....

[Bill M.]

Not sure that it qualifies as 'cheap' simply because of limited 
availability, but I'd just grab a bike I already own - a 1984 Miyata 1000. 
 I bought the frame new in 1983 so it has long since been amortized.  The 
geometry is surprisingly close to that of an AHH (with a higher bottom 
bracket) and the joints are lugged so it qualifies as Rivvish in my book. 
 The current build includes a 90's vintage Shimano triple crank, 80's 
Suntour XCD derailleurs, Shimano barcons, Suntour XC cantis and seatpost,a 
B17 Imperial and drop bars.  I use a well-worn Carradice Nelson Longflap 
for luggage, and a Blackburn rack to support it.  Wheels are in transition, 
but will be a Suntour XC 9000 front / Specialized FW rear, 7 speed 14-28, 
32 spokes, Sun CR18 rims and Conti Speed Ride tires (nominally 42's, really 
a bit under 40mm) once I finish building them.  No fenders needed around 
here, if I needed them I'd use plastic.  For the stated purpose I'd swap to 
an Albatross (or similar) and cheap MTB levers.  And yes, Patrick, I have 
ridden that bike with a fixed cog, so that could be done too.

If that all sounds too fancy for the purpose, it's a result of small 
purchases over many years so I haven't noticed the expense.  The frame 
could wear most any parts that fit and all the function would be there.  

OTOH, I *can* afford a Clem, and there's a 52 cm. green frameset waiting 
for me to pick it up at Riv WHQ on Saturday.  That will be a rather 
different build, details to come.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 8:19:29 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Let's say that you've decided your stable has a niche for  "just ride" 
> bicycle, one that *encourages* slow meandering rides, with sit up and beg 
> position, street shoe pedals, and comfortable tires. But you can't afford a 
> Clem, and yet want something less ponderous and ungainly than, say, a 
> Raleigh Sports. Since this is a "spur of the moment, get on and ride for 10 
> to 30 minutes" kind of bike, you won't need fenders; but you might want a 
> rack or bag for light loads -- say taking a ride to the nearby Open Space 
> park to do some work on your laptop.
>
> What would you build up? For example, would you choose an old chromo road 
> frame and 650B it, or would you choose a nice old rigid mtb (not pre-NORBA; 
> I don't like the old ones) and shoe it with Rat Trap Passes?
>
> Bar? Saddle? Pedals? 
>
> Describe the saddle and build kit and gearing -- me, I'd be inclined to 
> make it fixed or, at least, ss -- keep it simple = just get on and ride, in 
> my opinion. Platforms or clips 'n' straps?
>
> First criterion: easy no-thought, no-prep riding; second, stability; 
> third, comfort and efficiency -- no g-d iron tires; fourth, cheap.
>
> The Dahon is somewhat of this quality, but it's a bit too twitchy to be 
> ideal for this purpose. Perhaps I should look into replacing the 35 mm 
> Kojaks with 55 mm Big Apples ...
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the contours of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 10-30 minute rides

[Bill M.]

According to my cardiologist 30 minutes of moderate exercise daily (e.g. a 
brisk half hour walk) is all that is needed for cardiovascular fitness, and 
more that that can actually be detrimental if one's criterion is longevity. 
 I do find that's rather short to achieve the mental benefits of cycling, 
he would say that's just an addiction to endorphins.

Bill 
Stockton, CA

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 3:56:40 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> I presume your choice of mental health over bone health means you don't 
> have bone health issues.  That's great, bone health issues are really 
> not good.  But I really can't see 10 minutes of riding being anything 
> more than a way to get from here to 2 miles farther down the road; fun 
> and mental heath benefits probably don't start accruing for a trip that 
> short.   30 minutes, definitely more like it. 
>
>
> On 07/29/2016 06:24 PM, Joe Bernard wrote: 
> > Steve, you're never gonna sell me on a 10-minute ride being "a waste of 
> time." Frankly, that's a bizarre statement on this forum. I'd be better off 
> physically with a 10-minute walk? Don't care, I don't go for walks..I'm on 
> my feet all day as it is. I'll take the ride and the mental health it 
> brings every time. That said, I usually go for at least 30, although I just 
> did 15. 
> > 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Chronicles

[Bill M.]

Know your memes:

Put a bird on it. 

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 2:15:08 PM UTC-7, David Person wrote:
>
> Portland Design Works Bird Cage.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Water-Bottle/dp/B009F9ZOXK/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1469826883&sr=1-1&keywords=portland+design+works
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 12:31:50 PM UTC-7, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>
>> Wow...I love that birdcage bottle cage...that's a really unique touch on 
>> a very nice bike! Wherever did you find that?
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Jones on the trade/sale block so I can get a Riv

[Bill M.]

Seconded.

On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 10:09:40 AM UTC-7, ian m wrote:
>
> I am interested in pics and price
>
> On Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 7:28:11 AM UTC-4, Andrew Huston wrote:
>>
>> I totally understand if this is against the rules but since it involves a 
>> Riv, maybe its ok?
>> I am trying to sell my Jones Diamond to fund the purchase of a 
>> Hunq/Atlantis/Joe App and thought I'd see if anyone is in the market to buy 
>> or swap. Local market is crummy. 
>> Full XT build facilitated by conversation with Jeff.  My PBH is 84 and 
>> set up accordingly however the frame is versatile to a variety of rider 
>> sizes.  I am looking for a 51 Hunq/Joe App or 54.5 /56 Atlantis.  May be a 
>> long shot but, eh.  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Mark's/M18 failures?

[Bill M.]

I agree that the diving board is the weak point of the M18.  I used my M18 
for a while on the rear of a bike as a support for a Carradice Camper.  It 
was actually a great fit, but the diving board eventually bent under a load 
of groceries and allowed the rack to start rubbing the tire.  A little 
force bent it back enough to get me home.  I now use panniers on a Tubus 
Ergo low-rider to carry heavier loads on that bike.  My Camper is sitting 
idle for lack of a better support solution. 

I'm not sure that I would trust the Mark's rack to work better for that 
application, but in that case I might expect the mounting bolts to rotate 
under load rather than the struts bending.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Saturday, June 27, 2015 at 7:31:56 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> How has your Marks or M18 front rack held up over the years? Do the tang 
> bolts loosen, or has everything stayed put for you?
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts on tubeless?

[Bill M.]

I'm running 650b Big Ones on Pacenti SL23 rims, which are designed for 
tubeless tires, and Stan's tape.  The tires seated up perfectly on the 
first try, and held air decently even without sealant.  With a couple of 
ounces of Orange Seal they have been flat-free and trouble-free, and roll 
very nicely.  I would not be confident that the Dyads would work as well. 
 I'd try them with tubes, at least at first.  

Bill

On Monday, May 9, 2016 at 6:43:22 PM UTC-7, Reed Kennedy wrote:
>
> I've been loving my new-to-me Hunqapillar, but I gotta say it does feel a 
> bit sluggish at times with 2.15" Schwalbe Big Bens on there. 
>
> I'm going to give the lighter Schwalbe Big Ones a shot. It looks like the 
> ones I've ordered are tubeless-compatible, so I was thinking of giving that 
> a shot. Anyone who's tried it willing to share their thoughts?
>
> Also, is Stans No Tubes the way to go, or is there a better option?
>
>
> Best,
> Reed
>

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[RBW] Re: Getting the message out.

[Bill M.]

My commute to my old job was about 12 miles each way.  I didn't race to 
work by any means, but was fully warmed up once I got there.  Had I not had 
a shower available I would have been sweaty, itchy, uncomfortable and 
probably not pleasant to be next to through my work day.  So, I dressed for 
comfort on the bike (often before dawn and chilly in the AM, and warm and 
sunny in the PM) and carried clothes to be comfortable in the office. 
 Nothing wrong with that.  A shorter commute in daylight would have been 
different.  YMMV.

Bill

On Wednesday, April 20, 2016 at 11:50:29 PM UTC-7, Utah wrote:
>
> I was going to make a reply on Julian's post on unwanted criticism coming 
> from others, but I decided to start my own.
>
> I used to sign up for rides and train for them and ride with a group with 
> a common kit and all that.  As I had kids and life got in the way I also 
> got burned out on the racing grind.  Then one day while listening to NPR 
> driving to work this guy came on talking about bikes.  I generally love 
> bikes (like most of us do in this community) so I tuned in intently.  It 
> was Grant and he was making some really great points.  My favorite was 
> about how we are the only place in the world that people dress for racing 
> to ride to work.  I was hooked!
>
> I am now an advocate for the Unracer, just ride movement.  As Grant says, 
> I'm not anti-racer, I am just not trying to be a racer or imitating racers, 
> I just like to ride my bike.
>
> So I had a dilbert moment at work recently.  I am the chair of our Site 
> Planning Committee at work.  The wellness committee came to us looking for 
> better bike parking next to showers and lockers for people who like to 
> shower and change clothes after their commute.  I helped them with the 
> requests and we got some proposals and estimates together and presented 
> them to the executive sponsors of the committee for their support.  I am 
> known for being a bike commuter so one of the people on the committee asked 
> me, "you ride your bike to work, are you going to use the new parking 
> area?".  I just smiled and said "no".   Of course they didn't understand 
> how I could be a bike commuter and not use new bike parking convenient to 
> showers and lockers (but not my desk).  My answer "because I don't need 
> take a shower or change my clothes because I don't race to work, I just 
> ride ride my bike."
>
> I do think it is important to recognize that we are the wierd ones... and 
> that is okay.
>

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[RBW] Re: New CLEM pic, short review

[Bill M.]

Is that the Kalloy / Dajia butterfly bar that VO and Wallbike sell?  I've 
been interested in how it would compare to an Alba.

Bill

On Wednesday, March 30, 2016 at 8:03:27 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Got 'er set up now with butterfly bars, Pletscher rack, and a strange mix 
> of rear 8-speed RapidFire clickers and cheapo SunRace front friction 
> shifters. It's weird but it works!
>
> Eventually she'll get fat tires and fenders, but I'm happy with this setup 
> for now. Have I mentioned what an amazing bike the CLEM is? It rides like a 
> Gold Wing and corners like a Ducati, two things which shouldn't be possible 
> in one frame. I could ride up a dirt trail, sail down the twisty paved way, 
> then tour across country on it tomorrow with no changes save for maybe a 
> slightly meatier tire for the dirt part. Rivendell makes more expensive 
> frames with fancier details (and I love them), but I challenge anybody to 
> present that you actually need more bike than this. CLEM is a fabulous 
> bicycle!
>
> Joe Bernard
> Vallejo, CA.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Could the end be near? Spring and happy Phil pawls

[Bill M.]

I love my silver WI hubs.  MUSA, light, pretty, smooth, reasonably quiet 
(not silent, but nothing like a Chris King) and easy to service.  I'd only 
be a little hesitant if heavy mud was a part of your riding, that might 
make getting to the little setscrews to open the hub for service a little 
harder.  My bikes stay pretty dry so I've never had a problem.

Bill

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 1:45:49 PM UTC-8, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> yeah...I lied $515 on Riv site. But I like White industries because I also 
> have their ENO SS freewheel on my PX-10 and I love it...got it because the 
> inexpensive SS freewheels  were noisy and felt sloppy and it seems like 
> it's ready to survive the apocalypse. And I like nice hubs, and the WI's 
>  in silver will be pretty I think.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Could the end be near? Spring and happy Phil pawls

[Bill M.]

At temperatures that low, the pour point of the lubricant would start to 
matter.  Phil Tenacious Oil is probably molasses at -40.  I can't find 
detailed specs for Tri Flow, but the MSDS says its flash point is pretty 
low (170 degrees), indicating a fair portion of it is pretty light oil so 
it probably does flow at a low temperature.  Sewing machine oils or 
3-in-One would perform similarly.  

I'm not a huge fan of using motor oil outside of engines, but you could go 
to a 0W-20 synthetic motor oil to get a very low pour point.  Synthetic 
oils have an inherently high viscosity index, which means they don't change 
viscosity with temperature as much as mineral oils.  That same property 
would help maintain lubrication film strength when the weather warms up.  

If you stick with Tri Flow, consider using it as a winter-only oil, and 
relubricating with something a bit heavier for the warm months.  No sense 
wearing out an expensive hub prematurely. 

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 1:05:09 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> Good question! I did a quick Google and it seems they have their own brand 
> of 'all season' oil, but I didn't find anything else. 
>
> I've tried Phil pawl lube, tenacious oil, 10w40 motor oil, various chain 
> lubes, etc. Triflow is the only thing I've found to work consistently below 
> -10C. Even -5C was getting my 10w40 lube sticking a bit, which I found 
> surprising. 
>
> Strangely enough, my older 3-pawl phil wood road hub has never skipped in 
> any temperatures, ever. But this new and 'improved' 4-pawl design Phil came 
> out with a year or two ago has been brutal. This is my third freehub and my 
> first time since getting the Atlantis that I've been able to ride in the 
> cold without it skipping. 
>
> I got the minimal and ultra light lube idea from some riders up in Alaska 
> who used a few drops of Singer sewing machine oil. It's pretty similar to 
> TriFlow. TriFlow is supposed to be good to -60C. I've had the 'pleasure' of 
> trying it down to -40C and it's been working well. 
>
> A friend of mine just bought a Rohloff, I'll ask him about its low temp 
> performance. 
>
> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 2:50:47 PM UTC-6, dougP wrote:
>>
>> What lube is used in Rohloff hubs?  That would seem to be a tricky 
>> problem, given all the whirling bits.  And the Germans deal with real 
>> winter.  Maybe ATF?
>>
>> dougP
>>
>> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 12:18:04 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick 
>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Amazing how our mitochondria adapt to the seasons so swiftly, helping us 
>>> generate heat more than go in the winter and go more than heat in the 
>>> winter. perhaps poor Phil's pawls need a mitochondria lube? Grin.
>>>
>>> Love your pictures as always!
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at 12:37:51 PM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

 After sitting in the deep freeze so long, my body is all out of wack 
 and was feeling quite happy to ride for a few hours in nothing but a wool 
 jersey and jeans. It's funny, because come October I would be freezing 
 cold 
 in warmer temperatures with more clothes!

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Segwaying from Garbage Pail Bike thread: pros and cons of CF and Steel?

[Bill M.]

You've gotta work within the limits of the material.  My Calfee does have a 
carbon post (Easton) that came with the frame, but I would never consider a 
carbon bar or stem and it does not carry a saddle bag.  

Bill

On Wednesday, January 20, 2016 at 6:04:29 AM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> After many cycle tours, I have come to prefer using a single large bag up 
> front on a porteur style rack and if the need is there a saddle bag.  
>
> Despite reading many claims that CF is as good or better than steel so far 
> not aware of any CF fork or seat post recommended for this sort of set up.
>
> And yes, I have asked custom builders who recommended I instead go with a 
> steel fork.  Certainly not claiming it cannot be done.  But interesting no 
> one wants to do it.
>

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[RBW] Re: Segwaying from Garbage Pail Bike thread: pros and cons of CF and Steel?

[Bill M.]

Calfee can provide such a bike as well.  

Double the price?  Maybe, maybe not.  I have owned a Rivendell Road and 
still own a Calfee Tetra.  A Calfee Tetra Pro frame with fork runs $3670 - 
$3895, though options can push that higher.  Certainly not double the price 
of a custom Riv ($3500), not quite double the price of a Roadeo ($2200). 
 Both are hand built frames.  The Riv is prettier, the Calfee is lighter. 
 Both handle well.  The Calfee is, dare I say it, faster in a sprint or up 
a hill.  Neither one ever let me down.  Either one could be repaired should 
it be damaged, but I suspect fixing the steel bike would be more expensive 
(the Calfee has no paint, so no repaint needed after mending).  Different 
horses for different courses.  There's room for both in the world.

Now I'll put on my nomex and fix a bowl of popcorn.

Bill

On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 4:23:36 PM UTC-8, Scott G. wrote:
>
> Call Nick Crumpton, say you want a lifetime road bike that will fit 33mm 
> tires.
> I think you'll be very pleased with your carbon bike.
>
> Downside of carbon is that costs near double a same quality steel bike.
>
> Steel vs. Carbon, is the cycling nutters version of the Arian heresy.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Big One(s) on Clem.

[Bill M.]

Some sources in Europe:

http://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;navigation=1;product=143272;page=14;menu=1000,2,103,317;mid=0;pgc=0;orderby=4

http://www.xxcycle.com/schwalbe-big-one-hs472-evolution-line-275-x-235-gravel-tire-f,,en.php

https://r2-bike.com/SCHWALBE-Tire-Big-ONE-275-650B-x-235-OneStar-EVO-SnakeSkin-TL-Easy

I wonder if the heavier Snakeskin casings (the only ones available in 650b) 
will run a bit narrower than the Liteskins?  

Bill


On Monday, January 18, 2016 at 12:16:37 PM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:
>
> Sounds perfect! Where'd you get the 27.5s? I've been waiting on those 
> too...

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[RBW] Re: What is the *real* purpose of a rear brake?

[Bill M.]

On a long descent using the rear brake lets the rear wheel share some of 
the heat load.  A good thing on any bike, even more vital on a tandem or 
when running tubulars to avoid softening the glue.

Redundant brakes are good thing, too.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, January 14, 2016 at 9:44:51 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I just reinstalled the rear brake on the '03 Curt, because I wanted to use 
> the 18 t (66") freewheel on the flip side of the rear hub. This is 
> annoying, to me, because I have become so used to the ease of fender 
> installation and wheel installation and removal that you have without a 
> rear caliper messing things up (damned modern complications).
>
> I'm very used to having only a front brake (operated with a right-side 
> lever, of course; what else would you use???) and only install a rear with 
> a freewheel, since I've been told I shall *die* if I don't have a backup 
> brake.
>
> So, is the principal use of a rear brake merely as a backup should your 
> front one fail? Are there other uses? I guess if one is accustomed to 
> taking corners at the fastest speed possible, a rear brake for small, 
> precise speed adjustments without unduly loading the front tire, might make 
> sense; but does this make sense in fact?
>
> My first bike had a freewheel and no brake except my right Ked shoved onto 
> the front tire between the fork blades -- and I rode this thing on steep, 
> winding downhills and in heavy urban traffic. (OK, I was 15.) So a good, 
> solid front brake seems -- dare I say it? -- sufficient. Tell me why I am 
> wrong.
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivet Saddles

[Bill M.]

The SA, Rivet Pearl and Brooks B17 are all about 170 mm wide at the widest 
point.  

That's not the whole story, though.  Measured at the midpoint of their 
length, the Rivet is nearly 3 cm narrower than the SA (based on my SA, 
which is laced in and so narrower than stock).  The Brooks is in between. 
 The narrow nose of the Rivet works well for me, the wider nose of a Brooks 
rubs my anatomy in less-than-pleasant ways.  The SA is fine with a very 
upright position, if I lean forward it is much less comfortable.  

Bill

On Wednesday, October 28, 2015 at 6:13:11 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Width wise, does anyone know which Rivet has similar sit bone measurements 
> to the SAs?
>
> On Wednesday, October 28, 2015 at 8:55:12 PM UTC-4, Bill M. wrote:
>>
>> I was an early adopter, having bought a brown Pearl Ti from Deb at their 
>> debut at NAHBS in Sacramento a few years ago.  It has been in continuous 
>> use since then and I like it a lot.  It fits me better than a Brooks (of 
>> which I own five of various models and vintages, none of them being used 
>> right now) due to being wide enough at the sit bones but narrow in the nose 
>> so I don't get thigh rub.  The Rivet leather is quite hard, mine has hardly 
>> stretched at all and seems like it will last a very long time.  The comfort 
>> is all from the shape, don't expect much cush.  
>>
>> The SA is quite different.  You can't expect it to keep a flat shape like 
>> a Brooks or Rivet, it's meant to be a hammock and tensioning it flat will 
>> just stretch it to death as many have found.  My SA lives on a bike with a 
>> fairly upright position and it works well enough for me like that.  I can't 
>> really ride on the SA in any kind of tuck.  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 1:20:04 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>>>
>>> Anybody have any experience with them? Thoughts? 
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> D.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rivet Saddles

[Bill M.]

I was an early adopter, having bought a brown Pearl Ti from Deb at their 
debut at NAHBS in Sacramento a few years ago.  It has been in continuous 
use since then and I like it a lot.  It fits me better than a Brooks (of 
which I own five of various models and vintages, none of them being used 
right now) due to being wide enough at the sit bones but narrow in the nose 
so I don't get thigh rub.  The Rivet leather is quite hard, mine has hardly 
stretched at all and seems like it will last a very long time.  The comfort 
is all from the shape, don't expect much cush.  

The SA is quite different.  You can't expect it to keep a flat shape like a 
Brooks or Rivet, it's meant to be a hammock and tensioning it flat will 
just stretch it to death as many have found.  My SA lives on a bike with a 
fairly upright position and it works well enough for me like that.  I can't 
really ride on the SA in any kind of tuck.  

Bill

On Saturday, October 24, 2015 at 1:20:04 PM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Anybody have any experience with them? Thoughts? 
>
> Thanks,
> D.
>

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[RBW] Re: How to get out Brooks sit bone divets sop the rear frame down;t dig into my rear end.

[Bill M.]

If the leather has truly stretched to the point where you have a distinct 
center ridge and two deep "cheek pockets", just tensioning the saddle won't 
help.  It will just make the ridge all the more prominent, and you won't be 
any more comfortable.  

When you are ready for drastic measures:

Soak the saddle in water.  Really soak it, like submerged for a week in a 
tub, with the tension bolt fully slack.  That will soften the leather 
enough that it can be reshaped.  Reshape it by hand, massaging the ridge 
down and the dents back to something that looks like a new saddle.  Stuff 
something waterproof into the saddle and truss it up to hold that shape, 
than let it dry thoroughly.  Give it time.  

Once it's dry, polish it as best you can with Proofide (or your favorite 
balm).  The surface won't be as shiny smooth looking as a new saddle, but 
it was unrideable anyway, right?  DON'T apply a bunch of Proofide to the 
bottom, that will soften up the leather again and you don't want that. 
 Just polish the top like it was a pair of dress shoes.  

Before riding the saddle, put a bit of tension back on the leather.  Don't 
overdo it, but as you ride it do add a bit of tension as needed to help 
retain the shape.  To that end, two more things to do.  One, lace the 
skirts.  That will help the top stay flatter.  Two, if you're brave enough 
to go this far, cut out the center of the saddle a la Imperial / Anatomica. 
 Fancy shaping not needed, just a nice oval cutout.  If there's no material 
in the center, there is no way for a ridge to reform.  I have posted on 
that topic before.

I have soaked, reshaped and cut out a B17 (granted, a late-90's vintage one 
with very good leather) and it made the saddle much nicer.  These days I 
prefer my Rivet, but the hacking the otherwise-useless B17 gave it a new 
life.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Sunday, August 30, 2015 at 8:57:34 AM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> So I have only had this saddle for 10 months and I have divots where the 
> sit bones sit to the point of feeling the rear of the frame dig into my 
> rear end when I ride now.
>
> People say these saddles last for 20 years or so. But mine is becoming 
> unrideable at this point.
>
> Any advice?
>
> It is a sprung Flyer, so I am not sure if tension bolt tightening will 
> help. Wondering if the springs will just rise with the tensioning, making 
> the saddle more concave and the rear frame piece more pronounced.
>
> Anyone have experience with this? Any solutions?
>

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[RBW] Re: hatchets

[Bill M.]

I use one for splitting firewood and making kindling when we go camping. 
 Wouldn't normally carry one on a bike, though, that's strictly car camping.

Bill

On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 8:38:12 PM UTC-7, Don Compton wrote:
>
> I am not a gun control guy. But what is the deal with hatchets?
>

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[RBW] Re: 650b Rim: Dyad or A23

[Bill M.]

I have Dyads as they were about the only thing available when I bought 
them.  I'd certainly go with A23's (or something from Pacenti) if I was 
building new wheels.  I like the tighter fit of tires on a rim with 
definite shoulders for the bead to rest on.  The Dyads are better than the 
Synergies were, but tires can still be a bit 'lumpy' on them.  Current 
tubeless-ready rims should just plain fit better.

Note that if you're riding a Redwood you're probably a much bigger guy than 
I am.  Only you can tell how hard you are on rims, and that may influence 
your decision.  I would think a 32 spoke A23 with a decently wide tire 
would be fine but YMMV.

Bill

On Thursday, June 11, 2015 at 4:10:18 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> I was at my LBS hoping to order a 650b Dyad as they're a Velocity dealer. 
> Looks like Rivendell gets all of them, as an exclusive, and Velocity itself 
> has none in stock. As much as I'd like to order from Riv, there's a $20 
> shipping fee on rims and all I really need is 1.
> LBS said it could get 650b A23, which is a little lighter, 1mm narrower, 
> basically same profile as Dyad, and is tubeless ready should I decide to 
> try that.
> This will go on my 650b-converted Redwood which will be setup as my road 
> bike with a small wedge and handlebar-mounted bag.
>
> Any thoughts on either rim? Experience with either?
>
> Thanks,
> David
> Chicago
>

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[RBW] Re: Cut Brooks

[Bill M.]

A vegetable peeler works well, with less chance for major error than a 
Dremel.  I start with a power drill and a large bit to rough out the slot, 
clean up with an X-Acto, then trim with the peeler until the undesired 
contact / pinching has been relieved.  I wind up with an oval slot that's a 
bit wider than that of a factory Imperial.  Lacing the skirts in tightly 
helps the saddle keep its shape after slotting.

Bill

On Friday, March 8, 2013 at 11:34:56 AM UTC-8, doc wrote:
>
> Careful... a thin slot has the potential for pinching.  Someone suggested 
> a dremel tool with a sanding disk for cleaning and beveling the slot.  I 
> think that would work rather well.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New bicycle brand from Merry Sales = New Albion

[Bill M.]

Ahem.

I don't see Rivendell as the inspiration for the New Albion head badge, and 
the name is hardly original.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Albion_Brewing_Company
The New Albion Brewing Company was founded in 1976 in Sonoma, CA, and was 
the first modern American microbrewery.  
Any guesses what their label looked like?


The name is now owned by the folks that make Sam Adams, and apparently the 
brand has been re-introduced with essentially the same graphics.  

I can't quite believe that the head badge was designed with no 
foreknowledge of the beer brand labels, especially given the beer reference 
on the bikes' home page, and a model called Homebrew.  It feels a little 
disingenuous to me.  I'd feel better about it if Merry Sales and KE would 
acknowledge the connection overtly, but that might run them into some 
copyright issues with the folks that own the name in the brewing world.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Monday, February 17, 2014 at 12:28:35 PM UTC-8, grant wrote:
>
> I swear to God, Allah, Buddha, the Dalai Llama, Bob Dylan, and 
> Nebuchadnezzar that I had nothing to do with it. Jim from Merry Sales DID 
> email me early art of the badge, and I said hmmm, really...? Was a little 
> bummed, but more surprised than bummed, I also know a nd like the badge 
> designer, talked to him about it, have made peace with all, and at no point 
> did things get even close to ugly. After Jim assured me it was not 
> functionally like the Atlantis, no problem. The first one was the red road 
> bike. Next, this Betty Foy-ish colored mixte. It's all fine, but Nope, I 
> had nothing to do with it.
>
> We may come out with our own boodjay bike in a year, but --- that's just a 
> rumor at this point.
>
> On Friday, February 14, 2014 7:40:06 PM UTC-8, eflayer wrote:
>>
>> http://newalbioncycles.com/
>>  
>> Makes me wonder if, or the degree to which, Grant Peterson may be 
>> associated with these bikes. Not sure how they are differentiated from 
>> Soma, but some nice stuff coming.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Ram/Roadeo/Hilsen Frame (ready to take the Riv plunge!)

[Bill M.]

Scroll down, there's a very nice 59 cm Roadeo listed on the board right 
now...

On Thursday, January 8, 2015 at 8:14:13 AM UTC-8, Nick Ybarra wrote:
>
> Howdy all,
>
> About a year ago, I bought a 650b Miyata 912 conversion off this list from 
> Bill Lindsay (thanks, Bill!).  Since then I've ridden the heck out of the 
> bike and really love it for commuting and bike camping.  See here for some 
> good action shots of the bike:  
>
>
> http://theradavist.com/2014/12/escaping-black-friday-bicycle-camping-bourbon-black-coffee/#
>  
> 
> 34
>
> http://theradavist.com/2014/11/skipping-town-halloween-go-bicycle-camping/#24
>
> So, after a year, I'm fully drinking the Riv-style Kool-Aid.  I think I'm 
> ready for my first Riv for faster, lighter road riding.  I'm looking for a 
> 60cm Ram or Hilsen or a 59cm Roadeo.  I'd prefer a frame/fork/headset since 
> I have nice Campy 10 speed parts ready for a build, but would also consider 
> a complete bike.  Anywho, just let me know if anyone has anything 
> available.  Cheers!
>
> -Nick 
>

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[RBW] Re: 59cm Roadeo for sale

[Bill M.]

I know this bike well, you won't find one that has been better cared for. 
 Too big for me...

Bill

On Tuesday, January 6, 2015 1:36:40 PM UTC-8, Don Compton wrote:
>
> I have a 59cm Roadeo, light metallic blue, Campy shifters and deraillers, 
> Tekro brakes, Nitto Noodles, Tallux stem, Crystal seatpost. The wheels are 
> Record hubs with Velocity Aerohead rims in silver and Rolly Polly tires. I 
> am the first owner and live in Lodi, California. The bike has rarely seen 
> rain and has a few scratches, but no dents. $1600 plus shipping, paypal.
> If interested please respond and I will e-mail pictures.
> Don
>

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[RBW] Re: Issue with Phil cassette hub

[Bill M.]

For that price I'd live with it.  Before I'd spend money on the Phil I'd 
drop an extra $50 and start over with a White Industries hub, save a bunch 
of weight, and have a hub that doesn't have excessive drag while coasting.  

I have a Phil cassette hub that is many years old and well broken-in.  If I 
give the rear wheel a spin with the bike in the repair stand, the drag in 
the hub drives the cranks around rather than letting the cassette 
freewheel.  Coasting on the road at speed it tries to drive the chain 
forward, causing the chain to go slack on the top run.  This has not 
changed since the hub was new.  The mechanic at the local shop has seen 
this before and regards it as a flaw in Phil's design.  The WI I have on 
another bike does not do this, nor do any other hubs I have owned.  

Bill

On Thursday, December 11, 2014 7:49:35 PM UTC-8, David wrote:
>
> Evening, group.  Anyone here (1) run a Phil cassette hub on their Riv, and 
> (2) come to find the cassette does not release or install onto the hub body 
> without significant force/wrangling/finagling involved?  It's really 
> bizarre. I have a Phil cassette hub on my Hilsen and I have this issue. 
>  Called Phil today.  I'm told that I have an older generation cassette hub 
> that has 4 pawls instead of the new 5 pawl hub body.  So, Phil wants $266 
> from me (plus shipping both ways) to install the current gen cassette hub 
> and ratchet ring.  No warranty on Phil parts, apparently.  Riv installed 
> the cassette hub on my Hilsen in 2010, and I'd very much assume the guys 
> who built my Hilsen up would've noticed a fussy fit between the cassette 
> and the hub body.  But how did this happen?
>
> Does this scenario speak to anyone here?  If so, do you know of another 
> workaround, as an alternative to dealing with Phil. 
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> David
> Sacramento, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Biking with the future wifey.

[Bill M.]

You think weddings are expensive?  Try divorce!  

No, I really don't recommend that YOU try divorce, just take my word for 
it.  It's expensive.  Better to get it right the first time.

Mazeltov!

Bill
Much happier the second time around in Stockton, CA


On Saturday, November 8, 2014 6:43:02 PM UTC-8, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
>
> Manny "Weddings are expensive" Acosta
>

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[RBW] Re: Has anyone gone from drops to Albas and regretted it?

[Bill M.]

I have an Alba, and have used it off and on.  I have used them to let me 
ride through a couple of periods when the only way I could pedal was bolt 
upright due to injury or infirmity.  Once healed, I always wind up wanting 
to lean forward a bit more than the Alba's will allow, and I find the grips 
to be too close to parallel with the top tube.  Right now I'm finding the 
On-One Mary to be a pretty good compromise - not as much pull back as an 
Alba, and a pretty natural grip angle that still lets me stand to climb 
when I need to.  Standing with either Alba's or straight MTB bars never 
worked for me.  

The Alba might be a better choice (for me, anyway) on a bike with too long 
a top tube to use anything else.

Bill
On Friday, February 7, 2014 7:37:45 AM UTC-8, Tonester wrote:
>
> I've got noodles on my Atlantis and like them fine, but curiosity..
>

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Saddle tension lesson

[Bill M.]

Don'try to tension an SA to imitate a Brooks.  They are made to have some 
hammock effect.  Keep it taut enough to stay off of the seat post clamp, but 
not too much tighter.  Mine sagged quite a bit at first, but it finally 
stabilized with a bit of bolt left.  Getting the tilt right is very important.

Bill

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Re: [RBW] Is the Velocity Synergy the only 650b rim being sold for use with rim brakes?

[Bill M.]

Campy only guarantees their wheels to 180 lb.  I the world of racing 
cyclists, more than that = Clyde!

Bill (180 lb. and holding...)

On Friday, December 28, 2012 1:15:12 PM UTC-8, Skenry wrote:
>
> No help on the rim, but when the h%ll did 200plus really become clydesdale?
> Seriously, I'm at least 225 pounds and at 6 foot I just seem to be normal 
> around my parts.
>  
> Scott "I can still get by with low spoke wheels too" Henry
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 27, 2012 at 4:00 PM, Iron Rider <100...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> The building of my A.H.H.  seems to be stalling out over rim selection. 
>> Is the Velocity Synergy the only 650b rim being sold for use with rim 
>> brakes? And a related question, has anyone built up one of these for use by 
>> a Clydesdale?  I am well over 200lbs and am looking for a strong reliable 
>> wheel. Thanks for your thoughts and helpful comments.
>>
>> Nigel
>> -- 
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Forget Noodles: here's the bar for you

[Bill M.]

Inverted Lauterwasser!

On Saturday, December 1, 2012 1:49:47 PM UTC-8, BSWP wrote:
>
> Courtesy of BikeSnob NYC, these sweet bars:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/33350670@N08/4227575870/
>
> - Andrew, Berkeley
>

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[RBW] Re: Are Brooks Saddle Worth the Money?

[Bill M.]

Matt,

If you look at an SA, a B17 and a Rivet Pearl from above, you'll see that 
they are all about the same width at the widest part.  The SA is nearly 
triangular from nose to tail, the skirts are wide and flared but relatively 
soft.  The designer INTENDED for them to contact your inner thighs (per an 
e-mail exchange I had with him before his untimely passing).  The Brooks 
has a little more 'shape' to it, the nose stays narrower longer than on the 
SA.  The skirts are more vertical, but there's still some contact there.  

The Rivet's nose stays narrow much longer than that of the Brooks, then it 
flares much more rapidly to the wider section.  This is achieved by the 
skirts being pulled together under the saddle and riveted together with a 
small metal reinforcing plate.  The result is that the Rivet eliminates 
(for me) the contact point between the inside of the thigh and the corner 
of the saddle.  That makes a real difference in comfort, IMO.  Also, the 
Rivet leather is very stiff, so it supports the sit bones well.  The more 
you sink into the saddle, the more that contact point becomes significant. 
 It takes some real mileage for the Rivet to break in, so you can't judge 
one on the first ride.

I have the skirts of my B17 Imperial laced in tight, and have also laced 
the skirts of my SA and pulled them in tight, but compared to the Rivet 
those are only partially successful in eliminating that inner thigh 
contact.  My B17 Special is not laced (yet), but I have cut a fairly large 
slot into the center of the saddle to relieve pressure from the 'hump' that 
can develop in a Brooks over the years.   I also have a Brooks Flyer that's 
both cut out and laced, but it''s not currently in use.  The SA, Imperial 
and Rivet all come with cutouts.  There's a pattern here!

Hope that helps,

Bill Mennuti


On Friday, November 30, 2012 11:36:27 AM UTC-8, hangtownmatt wrote:
>
> Bill, or anyone else for that matter,
>
> Would you please explain how the Rivet Pearl is different for your 
> anatomy?  I ask because I've put 3,000 miles on a Brooks B17 over the last 
> 7 months and have suffered horribly from saddle sores where the back of my 
> thigh meets my buttocks. I'm not sure if it is the shape of the Brooks B17 
> or its skirt that is causing me issues, but I finally gave up last week and 
> robbed Peter (vintage Bianchi) to pay Paul (Sam Hillborne).  Sam is now 
> sporting a Specialized Romin Evo and the saddle sore issue is going away.  
> I'll stick with it if I have to, because it works, but I'd rather have a 
> Rivet, Berthoud or another Brooks model.  I was supposed to test ride a 
> Pearl today but PNW weather is preventing that.
>
> I sure wish there we more online reviews of the Rivet products.
>
> Matt
>
>
>
> On Thursday, November 29, 2012 6:31:59 PM UTC-8, Bill M. wrote:
>>
>>
>> The Rivet has not been mentioned here yet, and they are certainly not 
>> cheap, but I have to say the shape of the Pearl is far better for my 
>> anatomy than any Brooks I have ridden.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Thursday, November 22, 2012 8:47:06 PM UTC-8, Christopher Murray wrote:
>>>
>>> I had not bought a new Brooks in a few years and was shocked at the 
>>> prices. I think they are great saddles but starting at $120 for a standard 
>>> B17 is insane. You could get them for a fraction of that just a few years 
>>> ago. WIth all the other saddles out there, do you think they are worth this 
>>> much money? Especially with some great new brands and re-intro of some 
>>> classics (Regal, Contour, Regal, etc). Has anyone tried any of these 
>>> re-intros or have a Brooks alternative they like?
>>>
>>> Cheers!
>>> cm
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Are Brooks Saddle Worth the Money?

[Bill M.]

$120 for a saddle is not exactly cheap, but look around.  Selle SMP makes a 
few cheap saddles, but their main line stuff runs $250 and up.  Selle 
Italia has saddles that run into the $350 - 450 range.  In comparison, a 
Brooks looks like a moderately priced, comfortable but heavy touring saddle.

I have an old B17, a recent Imperial, a Selle Anatomica, and my current 
favorite saddle a Rivet Pearl Ti on various bikes.  None were exactly 
cheap, but I don't regard any of them as money poorly spent.

The Rivet has not been mentioned here yet, and they are certainly not 
cheap, but I have to say the shape of the Pearl is far better for my 
anatomy than any Brooks I have ridden.  It's quite stiff when new and is 
taking a while to break in (maybe 800 miles so far), but I think it's a 
terrific saddle.  I know a couple of other Rivet owners that seem to agree.

Bill

On Thursday, November 22, 2012 8:47:06 PM UTC-8, Christopher Murray wrote:
>
> I had not bought a new Brooks in a few years and was shocked at the 
> prices. I think they are great saddles but starting at $120 for a standard 
> B17 is insane. You could get them for a fraction of that just a few years 
> ago. WIth all the other saddles out there, do you think they are worth this 
> much money? Especially with some great new brands and re-intro of some 
> classics (Regal, Contour, Regal, etc). Has anyone tried any of these 
> re-intros or have a Brooks alternative they like?
>
> Cheers!
> cm
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell owners and Jefferson Airplane...

[Bill M.]

On the Deadhead side, I believe Bobby Weir is also a cyclist.

Not a huge Airplane fan, maybe because of what the band eventually morphed 
into (Starship).  Hot Tuna, though, is the real thing.  And Jorma Kaukonen 
is surely the only Finnish American guitar hero, which counts for something 
in my book as I'm half Finnish myself.

Bill
A second generation Bay Area native


On Wednesday, October 24, 2012 9:02:06 AM UTC-7, Phil Brown wrote:
>
> Believe it or not there's a cycling connection. Jack was-or is-a 
> cyclist. I remember him riding fixed on the street 30 years ago. 
> Many more cycling/music connections. 
> Phil Brown 
>
> On Oct 23, 9:13 pm, lungimsam  wrote: 
> > Are you both a Rivendell owner and Jefferson Airplane fan? 
> > 
> > Was wondering about the SanFran cultural/possible generational link. 
> > 
> > I am a Marylander. But a Rivendell owner and Jefferson Airplane fan. 
> > Listening to "You're my Best Friend" while cycling on quiet roads in the 
> > Spring is such a nice feeling. 
> > 
> > There is a Rivendell/Mac question on Jim's site. Though more obscure, 
> > thought I would ask this one because of the SF area focus of the two, 
> and 
> > I'm a fan of both. 
> > 
> > Moderator, feel free to remove if this question is not approporiate to 
> the 
> > forum, with my apologies... 
>

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[RBW] Re: FT: Rivet Pearl for B17 Special

[Bill M.]

Give it more time and more miles.  My Pearl Ti took 4-500 miles to start 
really getting good, and with over 600 it's still improving.  

Bill

On Friday, October 19, 2012 1:07:06 AM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:
>
> I've got a nearly new (under 200 miles) Rivet Pearl saddle that I'm not 
> coming to grips with, and since I shouldn't fix what's not broken, I'd like 
> to trade it for a B17 Special in Antique Brown or Honey.  I'd take one with 
> less than 1000 miles if you have one.  The Rivet is a nice saddle, just a 
> bit stiffer than I like.  More like the Berthoud with a cutout.  Recent pic 
> (the one in the middle) is here: http://flic.kr/p/cJB4Y9 
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA
>

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[RBW] Re: Speaking of luggage: Camper longflap versus Sackville medium

[Bill M.]

SJS advertises the Camper, but they don't have any stock.  Neither does 
Wiggle, and when I tried to order one last year the delivery date just got 
pushed out further and further.  I finally decided to stick with my ancient 
Nelson Longflap.  Of course the Saddlesacks are also out of stock so it's 
kind of academic.  

Bill

On Tuesday, October 9, 2012 12:16:45 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Those of you who have used both, which is better? I am inclined toward 
> the Carradice (24 liters versus SM at 23+ when "stuffed") since SJS 
> has it for GBL 55. 
>
> Anyone? 
>
> -- 
> Vote early, vote often, vote Rhinoceros! 
> http://tinyurl.com/d7muj2t 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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[RBW] Re: Opinions on Nitto 177 Noodle vs. Nitto B-135/136 Randonneur?

[Bill M.]

I've had both Noodles (42 cm) and 135 Rando's for many years.  Be aware 
that the width of the 135's is measured at the ends of the drops.  They 
measure 38 cm at the brake levers.  My Noodles are 42 at the levers, 43 at 
the drops.  If you like the 46 Noodles, you'll likely find the Rando's way 
too narrow.  

That said, the 135's ramps and drops are both very comfortable.  I think 
they are at their best when set high enough that the drops are viable for 
long distance cruising and short, sharp climbs.  I have the Rando's on my 
commuter, and find the narrow hoods to be fine, but I find anything over a 
42 cm drop bar to be too wide.  

If you want to try a bar with a bit more flare, consider the Salsa Cowbell. 
 It only comes in 31.8 mm and black, but It has a very nice flare to the 
drops. 

Bill

On Saturday, October 6, 2012 6:45:36 PM UTC-7, rw1911 wrote:
>
> Somewhat related, but without hijacking the below "Drop Bar 
> Suggestions" thread... 
>
> I have 46cm Noodles on two bikes.  I like them fine but wonder if 
> there is something to the flaring on the Randonneur.  (hand 
> position(s) and long ride comfort) 
>
> If you stand relaxed with your eyes closed and place your arms in 
> front of you, you'll notice that your hands are angled in a bit. (at 
> least mine are)  With this, it would seem that the flaring of the 
> Randonneur would provide a more natural hand position.  I wonder if 
> this is true in real life? 
>
> B-177 Noddle (46, 26.0) reach of 95 mm C-C and drop of 140 mm C-C 
> B-135 Rando (45, 25.4)  reach of 105 mm C-C and a drop of 120 mm C-C 
> B-136 Rando (44, 26.0) reach of 110 mm C-C and a drop of 125 C-C. 
> While 1 cm narrower than the B-135, the specs I'm looking at show that 
> the hoods would be 1 cm wider than the B-135, indicating more flare? 
>
> Can anyone comment with their real-world experience using both (all 
> three) bars? 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Which bike next....?

[Bill M.]

If what you want is a Roadeo-ish light, quick, comfortable road bike that 
wil accept 32+ mm tires, the Nordavinden is up your alley.  I have really 
been enjoying mine.  

The Black Mountain is probably also a great buy, but I have no personal 
experience with that one.  Here's a link with fewer motors:

http://www.blackmtncycles.com/p/welcome.html

Bill

On Sunday, September 23, 2012 6:09:44 AM UTC-7, LyleBogart{AT}gmail.com 
wrote:
>
> Or, just to put out another possibility, how about a Nordavinden or 
> Drakkar2 from Rawland? I have an earlier Drakkar (fixed gear) and am always 
> delighted to ride it.
>
> http://rawlandcycles.blogspot.com/
>
>
> https://plus.google.com/photos/108961230290044866302/albums/5391146948986199089?authkey=CJWL1IOdg72Mew
>
> The 2nd link is my Drakkar (without fenders. . . )
>
> Cheers!
>
> lyle
>
>
>
> On 23 September 2012 08:38, > wrote:
>
>> Or the Bruce Gordon BLT
>>
>> http://www.bgcycles.com/blt.html 
>>
>> Dave Nawrocki
>> Fort Collins, CO
>>
>> --
>> *From: *"Joe Bernard" >
>> *To: *rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Sent: *Saturday, September 22, 2012 5:57:48 PM
>> *Subject: *Re: [RBW] Re: Which bike next?
>>
>> How's about a San Marcos?
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>> Vallejo, CA.
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>>
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>> .
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>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> lyle f bogart dpt
>
> 156 bradford rd
> wiscasset, me 04578
> 207.882.6494
> 206.794.6937
>
>  

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[RBW] Re: Tubing Thicknesses on Rivs

[Bill M.]

On Friday, September 7, 2012 5:02:56 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:
>
> AND, there ya go   Straight from Grant  Cool!
>
> (I'm assuming everyone gets the RBW emails?)
>
> -L
>

Grant says:
"Talk of frame tubing and stiffness always leads to this: Two tubes of 
identical diameter and wall thicknesses will be equally stiff regardless of 
the tensile strength of the tube. Heat-treating doesn’t affect stiffness, 
and neither does tensile strength. This is what is said. Metallurgists have 
locked it in. I’ve been deep into bikes for 37 years and I’ve read it a 
hundred times, written it fifteen, and said it right around eighty, but I 
don’t believe it anymore.

My Pal Jeff is an ironworker, and about ten years he was talking about how 
rebar comes in different diameters and strengths, and if you were bending a 
dozen or more lengths of rebar of a given strength and diameter, and then a 
stronger one of the same diameter sneaked into the pile without you knowing 
it, it took twice the force to bend it.

This was disturbing to hear because it violated what I had locked in and 
told to others. I’ve thought a lot about it a lot but it didn’t seem 
scientific enough to repeat, and then about a year ago I read a sciency 
source saying something like hey, maybe tubes and rods of identical 
dimensions bend differently after all, and that’s what it took to switch me 
over.

 Some metallurgists will squawk at the suggestion that strength affects 
stiffness, but when the rebar bender with (in some cases) an eighth-grade 
education and twenty years of experience on thousands of rods picks up a 
rogue lookalike and says darn, Jeff, I can’t bend this son-of-a-gun, he is 
doesn’t have a reputation to defend, has nothing to lose one way or the 
other and doesn’t give a hoot, so you should listen….and try for yourself, 
and you’ll see it’s the same."


Sorry, gotta rant a little:

The conclusion Grant reaches here is not correct. Metallurgists do know 
what they are talking about. His example only proves how easy it is to 
confuse stiffness with strength.  Using the example of *bending* a piece of 
steel is irrelevant and misleading.   We don't bend steel frames by riding 
them.   Tubes used in a bike frame are sized so that they never reach the 
yield point.  Under all normal riding loads  they spring back, they do not 
permanently deform like the rebar Pal Jeff was bending.  

The stiffness of the two pieces of rebar (the 'regular' and the 'stronger') 
are the same *up to the point at which they begin to permanently deform*. 
 For the regular rebar, it takes relatively little force to reach that 
point.  Once the metal starts to deform, the force it takes to continue 
bending it does not go up, and at some point it actually decreases.  That 
makes it feel soft.  The stronger bar isn't any stiffer, but its higher 
yield strength means it can be bent a lot further before it starts to 
deform.  It takes a lot more force to bend that bar far enough to yield.  *That 
does not mean it is stiffer, that means it is stronger!  *

The coil springs in an auto suspension are made from steel that's roughly 
as thick as rebar, but they can bend a long way and spring back.  That's 
because they are made from much higher strength steel.  Rebar would make a 
lousy spring, it would compress once and not spring back.  Again, that's 
due to strength, not stiffness.  Our steel bike frames are built more like 
springs than they are rebar.

I think Grant has undermined his point, that given reasonable metallurgy 
(CR-MO steel or an equivalent), and in tubing gauges that will make a bike 
ride well, ultimate strength is not usually a factor.  It can start to 
matter if the tubes get really thin walled, but Grant doesn't tend to build 
that way.  A plain gauge tube can be perfectly good if the goal is to 
increase the stiffness of the tube (which a thicker middle section will do) 
and the thickness at the joint is sufficient for strength.  Butting is 
needed when the tube belly is too thin to make a strong joint.  That's all 
fine and sensible.  There's no need to ignore scientific facts to get there.

Rant over.

Bill Mennuti
Stockton, CA

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[RBW] Re: What Is Your Moustache Attitude?

[Bill M.]

After years of trying M-bars off and on without real success, I finally 
sold them.  I was never totally comfortable on them, I think mostly due to 
the lack of a position like the tops of a drop bar.  The best setup for me 
was quite high, on a bike with too short a top tube so they were very 
close.  They made a bike that was too small somewhat ridable, in the way 
that albatross bars can make a too-long frame ridable.  Still, I never 
found them to be preferable to a proper fit with a drop bar.

These days I'm running various flavors of short reach, shallow drop bars 
(3T Ergosum, SOMA Hwy 1, Salsa Cowbell) and find all of them preferable to 
the moustache.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Thursday, September 6, 2012 10:32:35 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> Seeing Manny's panda photo has prompted me to wonder: What is the attitude 
> (tilt) of your mustache bars? 
>
> I'm on my second mustache-equipped bike, and having the same problem 
> finding a comfortable tilt that I had on the first (which I long ago 
> switched over to standard drop bars). So I ask of those of you who have 
> M-bars and like them: how do you have them set up? Parallel to the ground? 
> Tilted? 
>
> Any help the group can offer to find a way to set up the bars so they're 
> comfortable for more than an hour's ride would be much appreciated. 
>
> --Eric "Love the Look, Hate the Feel" Norris 
>

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[RBW] Re: V brakes vs cantis (Was: Lance Armstrong Stripped of Tour de France Title)

[Bill M.]

You do mean IRD canti's, right Patrick?

Bill

On Monday, August 27, 2012 1:46:06 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Vs are very nice but I found the IRC wide profile cantis that Riv 
> installed on my former Sam Hill to be just as powerful with no more 
> lever pressure required, and they modulated noticeably better -- not 
> that the modulation issue is a huge issue for me; just that the IRCs 
> may well have been the nicest feeling hand brakes I've used. Since 
> I've never been able to set up cantis and drop levers and get them to 
> work right, I can't say what makes the difference; given that the old, 
> wide-profile XTs on the Trike also worked very nicely (not as nicely 
> as the IRCs, though), perhaps it is simply a wide profile thing. Oh, 
> nope: the Mafac cantis on the Herse -- both the shorter armed regulars 
> and the wider armed tandems, were useless dogs, even with modern aero 
> lever, decent housing stop hardware and housing and salmon pads. Beats 
> me. 
>
> Just brought the Novara Fusion home; Tektro mechanical disks. *Very* 
> nice -- better than the BB7s on the Fargo -- tho' the Tektros of 
> course are pulled with tourist bar levers, not drop levers. Still, 
> smoother, grippier, easier to modulate. Wonder what the difference is 
> if it's not the levers? 
>
> On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 12:28 PM, dougP > 
> wrote: 
> > I really like V-brakes on my Atlantis, with over 800 touring miles 
> > this summer, after using Tektro 720 cantis for a few years.  The 
> > ultimate stopping power is comparable BUT the Vs requiring far less 
> > force at the lever.  On long downhills, the cantis leave my forearms 
> > numb, especially with a load.  The only fussy bit about the Vs is the 
> > pad/rim clearance but it's no big deal. 
> > 
> > Based on the title, I almost skipped this thread.  Thankfully we'll 
> > always have brakes to discuss...and 2TT...and luggage...and racks... 
> > 
> > dougP 
> > 
> > On Aug 25, 12:11 am, Tom Harrop  wrote: 
> >> I'm with you Brewster, I just switched from cantis to Vs and I'm never 
> >> going back! All with the stock Shimano pads that came with the 
> V-brakes, 
> >> too. My problems were most likely caused by my inability to set the 
> cantis 
> >> up properly, but the squeal and shudder is gone and I have 100× better 
> >> stopping power. NB this is on a 68 cm Bombadil so the enormous head 
> tube 
> >> could also have been part of the problem. 
> > 
> > -- 
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>
>
>
> -- 
> "Believe nothing until it has been officially denied." 
>-- Claude Cockburn 
>
> - 
> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA 
> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW 
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html 
> - 
>

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[RBW] Re: What's your Rivendell story?

[Bill M.]

I owned a 1991 BR-1.  Lost that bike to a theft, but didn't lose track of 
Bridgestone.  I was on the iBOB list back then, until the traffic got too 
be too much to follow.

Somewhere in 1994 I saw an ad announcing that Grant had started up 
Rivendell.  I subscribed to the Reader starting with the 'green' issue.  In 
April of 1995 I had saved up enough money to order a Road Standard, though 
I was sweating over whether to spend the extra $50 for the contrasting head 
tube.  When I called Riv to place the order and chat about colors, they had 
me call their guy at Waterford.  Turned out someone had ordered a 56 (my 
size) in Sherwood Forest Green, single color, then changed his mind about 
the size.  The 56 was hanging there waiting for me!  That made the color 
decision easy.

I still have that frame:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/15750548@N04/5469420091/
The paint is original, but many different sets of parts have been on the 
frame.  It's now temporarily out of service, to be reborn into it's second 
round of fixed-gear duty.  Maybe with the S3X 3-speed fixed hub.

A couple of years later during one of Riv's periodic cash crunches they had 
a few prototypes to sell off.  The deal was, tell us your size and what you 
might want, and we'll call you if we have something that matches.  They 
called and offered me the Mountain/Expedition frame that had been the 
catalog model.  For $500, how could I refuse?  It replaced an MB-1 that I 
had bought and had only had for a few weeks.

I had the M/E for years but never rode it enough, and finally decided the 
top tube was too long for me and sold it to someone on this list.  

Bill

On Tuesday, August 21, 2012 8:06:10 AM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> So how did you originally find out about them, and why/where/how did you 
> get your first Rivendell bike?
>

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Re: [RBW] Opinions on Paul Racers or side pulls

[Bill M.]

I also have both Phil (cassette) and White Ind. hubs.  The Whites are a 
bunch lighter, cost less, and have less coasting drag.  Spin the rear Phil 
wheel with the bike in the workstand, and the cranks go around with the 
wheel from the drag in the freehub section.  I'd go for the WI's in a 
heartbeat.

Bill

On Monday, August 27, 2012 12:10:09 PM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> Having both Phil Woof and White Industries hubs, both with Velocity 
> wheels, I recommend the White Industries. They seem freer rolling to me. 
> Both look good.
>
> On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 4:33 PM, blakcloud 
> > wrote:
>
>> I am starting to think about buying my dream build which will be a A. 
>> Homer Hilsen. tentatively these are the components I would like.
>>
>> 650b wheel set built on Phil Wood hubs.
>>
>>
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wisdom or Cowardice, how fast to go downhill?

[Bill M.]

On a truly long and steep descent, trying to come down too slowly has its 
own peril - overheated rims and blown tires.  Letting the bike roll out 
some allows some energy to be dissipated by the wind, sparing the brakes 
for when they are really needed.  It can be a fine line between 
over-braking and under-braking.  At some point wisdom would have you stop 
to let the rims cool.  

Bill
Stockton, CA


On Friday, July 13, 2012 7:53:40 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm not a particularly anxious person, although I do get anxious when 
> someone compliments my courage!  I regularly downhill at 40+ mph and have 
> hit 50 on good pavement and reasonably straight mountain descents without 
> too much anxiety, but one hill this year has me spooked.
>
> One of my favorite routes is a 23 mile ride with 1400 feet of climbing 
> that is equally divided among lightly traveled & good dirt roads, mostly 
> descent chip & seal town roads, and a third of moderately traveled state 
> roads.  It provides beautiful pastoral scenery, a good view of the whole of 
> the Mt. Mansfield ridge line, and a stretch along the Lamoille River, 
> including the impressive Fairfax Falls. In the past I have always ridden it 
> counter clockwise, which includes a beast of a 3K climb, including a K of 
> 20%+ grade right in the middle.  This year I reversed direction and have 
> been riding it clockwise on my Rambouillet, with a very nice set of Grand 
> Bois Cerf tires.  The first time down it I discovered the pavement on the 
> steepest section was not in good condition, no pot holes or heaves, just 
> lots of broken chip and seal.  The bumping was quite dramatic and I felt 
> like one good hole could toss me over the handle bars.  Garmin was showing 
> 47.5 when I lightly squeezed the rear brake.  Fortunately the Paul's Racers 
> have excellent modulation and I safely slowed enough to feel OK.
>
> But when I got to the bottom I asked myself why I chickened out, since I 
> was just fine, and thought that the next time I would lay off the brakes. 
>  But this hasn't happened.  Instead each time I have gone down it, I have 
> gone slower and slower.  Today I took out my Trek, which has 32 mm TServes 
> to see if I would feel more comfortable at higher speeds with the softer 
> tire.  But when I got to the top of the hill I realized I had no real taste 
> for the experiment.  I went down at 25, until I could see the good pavement 
> at the bottom and then I let it roll out to 39.
>
> So I ask myself, is this wisdom, or just yielding to irrational anxiety.
>
> Michael
> Westford, VT
>

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[RBW] Re: My favorite bike invention!

[Bill M.]

The combination of comfortably shaped brake levers (Tektro, Campy, SRAM) 
and compact (short, shallow, non-anatomic bend) drop bars with flat ramps.

Clipless pedals are right up there too.

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Monday, July 2, 2012 9:43:13 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> OK, admittedly a bit, ok a lot, off topic... but Riv people have a 
> nuanced relationship with technological biking "advancements."  So 
> consider this a philosophical inquiry. (Perhaps even GP will be interested 
> in this unscientific survey) Yesterday as I was out for a very pleasant 
> couple of hours riding in the Green Mountains on my Ram, I had a certain 
> insight into what has added the most to my cycling pleasure during the last 
> 35 years.  It was clear.  The "compact crank"!  
>
> When I took up cycling, as an adult, with full Campy equipment,typical 
> gearing was a 52/42 mated to a 13-23.  Even then being wimpy I used a 13-26 
> and discovered that despite Campy's claims my NR derailler would handle a 
> 28.  Still big hills, let alone mountain passes, were agonizing.  Now with 
> a 44/30 & 11/28, I can cruise up 8% grades in a near 1 to 1 ratio, and 
> manage the occasional  10-14% ramp without distress even though I am 30 
> years older.  Of course longer 10+% mountain climbs want lower gears.  I 
> believe that the compact crank has also driven both front and rear 
> derailler development, yielding crisp shifting over just enough wider range 
>  to make a go-fast set up appropriate for  tackling lots of hills.
>
> Of course, learning the speed and joy are independent variables has also 
> helped a lot.  But pain and joy are not.
>
> S what bicycle development has added the most to your enjoyment 
> during your cycling career? 
>
> Michael  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Rivendell road-style bike for 82 PBH. Rambouillet, Road, Homer, Roadeo, Bleriot, etc.

[Bill M.]

My '95 Road Standard is a 56 measured center to top (about 54 center to 
center), and has a 57 top tube.  This frame is maybe 2 cm smaller, the head 
lugs nearly touch and there's no room for a pump peg, so I'd say 54 center 
to top.   My head tube is 14 cm, but the one in the listing lacks the 
extension above the upper head lug, so an 11 cm head tube adds up.   It has 
enough headset spacers to make up for the missing extension.  If the top 
tube is really 57, it may have been a custom geometry.  Or it got changed 
when the frame was rebuilt.

I think it's unlikely that the replacement front end has the original 753 
tubing.  Riv's 753 tubes were drawn to Grant's specifications with thicker 
walls and longer butts than a standard 753 set, and by 2003 even standard 
753 was obsolete.  It could have 853 tubes, or True Temper.  Fork blades, 
probably whatever Waterford was using at the time, probably not 531.  At 
least it still has the pretty lugs and head badge.

Picky detail - note that in picture 21, the Simplex binder bolt is not 
installed correctly.  The flats should be vertical, so the nut sits fully 
inside the lug.  

Bill

On Saturday, June 23, 2012 4:19:52 PM UTC-7, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>
> That's a really nice frame too. I wonder about the accuracy of the 
> seller's description. A 57 cm top tube on a 54 frame doesn't compute to me. 
> But I could be wrong.
>
> I have a PBH similar to the original poster's and a 57 top tube would be 
> way too long for me.
>
> On Saturday, June 23, 2012 4:07:37 PM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>>
>> Perhaps this 54 might work?
>>
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200779652699&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 5:03 PM, Brian Campbell 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Mis-read. Sorry! Still a sweet bike. It is my size, that is why I keep 
>>> thinking about it!
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 23, 2012 6:02:03 PM UTC-4, Aaron Thomas wrote:

 That's a sweet looking Road Standard. But a 59cm is way too big for an 
 82 cm PBH. For 82, you're talking about a frame in the 53-55 cm range.

 O

>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Please recommend 650b puncture resisitant tires.

[Bill M.]

Those Gatorskins come in 650c (23-571), not 650b (which would be 23-584 if 
it existed).  

If you have 650b wheels, there aren't many tires as narrow as 32 mm, and 
none narrower that I know of.  The 33 mm Nifty Swifty is basically a Jack 
Brown Blue in 650b size, and that's probably the only 650b tire that narrow 
that has any pretense of flat resistance.  Otherwise there are 32 mm or so 
Grand Bois and Hutchinson tires but they are more in the light and speedy 
category.  

If you're actually on 650c's, good luck finding anything as wide as 28 mm. 
 That size seems reserved for skinny racing tires.

Bill 

On Friday, June 22, 2012 5:18:04 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> What do y'all use? My favorite Continental Gatorskins only come in 650bx 
> 23c size.
> Thanks for any recommendations.
> I would use 28-32 tires.
>

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[RBW] Binder bolt for an old Riv Road?

[Bill M.]

After 17 years and innumerable adjustments, the seatpost binder bolt on my 
1995 Riv Road Standard finally snapped.  The seat lug is built for a 
Simplex binder, which is a pretty rare item these days.  Keyed binders 
won't fit properly, and I believe the Campy is too long to fit.

McMaster-Carr can provide a stainless steel M6 shoulder bolt that looks 
like it would work with the Simplex nut, but shipping for a single bolt 
would get silly in a hurry.   Before I bite that bullet, has anyone 
identified an easily available substitute ? 

Thanks,

Bill Mennuti

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[RBW] Re: Bosco Bars

[Bill M.]

I doubt many Boscos have been installed with a torque wrench.  Does anyone 
have a torque spec for a Nitto stem bolt anyway?  What is the 'proper' 
torque?

A little friction paste (aka assembly paste or carbon paste) might be all 
that's needed to keep the Boscos in place.  If they are so loose as to need 
a shim then they are truly off-spec and should be recalled.  I doubt that's 
the case.

Bill


On Tuesday, June 19, 2012 4:15:45 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
>
> My opinion, one should not need to resort to "extra torque" in order to 
> get the bar to stay in place ! Proper torque is one thing, extra is not 
> better ! 
>
> If the bar is slipping from not being the proper diameter , ie some 
> "defect" , if one uses a stem with a open face 2 or 4 bolt design, this 
> issue is moot as these stems are not dependent on a perfectly fitting bar.  
> Yes, I know many are attached to their traditional stems, but it is an 
> option. I for one was a "traditionalist", but got over that and love using 
> stems with open faces. I've used my Albatross bars with a 26.0 stem and 
> zero issues for years. Like the Bosco, these can produce a lot of leverage. 
>
> Or, try shimming your current stem with some aluminium can shims. 
>
> So, if your bars are slipping, don't just excuse a possible defect in the 
> bar and rationalise it by thinking your making it slip. Proper bar and stem 
> fits do not slip. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet/etc owners fat tire advice

[Bill M.]

My Road Standard currently wears nominal 32 mm Vittoria Randonneur Hypers.  
On Velocity A23 rims they measure a good 34 mm wide.  They shouldn't fit 
under short reach brakes, but they do.  I weigh about 180, and don't carry 
significant loads on that bike.  I can run as low as 60 front, 70 rear 
which is  what I used yesterday and today.  Lower than that starts to feel 
too squishy and vague.  Optimum for me might be 65/75.

The bike does handle a bit better with 28's, and after the next bike 
shuffle it will wind up going back to 28 mm Rubino's.

Bill

On Thursday, June 7, 2012 4:09:18 PM UTC-7, JL wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I might just be the kind of person that finds a happy mid zone in the 
> 700x28c tire as I can't seem to enjoy riding my rambouillet with anything 
> larger.  I do like supple, large volume, tires.  I ride big plush 650b 
> tires or round 559 slicks on other bikes.  On the Ram a 32mm or larger tire 
> feels too bouncy/springy.  I looked into information about tire pressure 
> but it was confusing.  Jan Heine's chart about 15% deformation and load 
> distribution claims that at my weight (175lbs with the bike) I should ride 
> pressures in the 30s for 32mm tires - that seems very low.
>
> Right now I ride various 28mm tires at about 80psi front and 90psi rear.
>
> What setup (psi tires etc) are people enjoying on their 700c road bikes 
> (in riv terms that is: RS, LL, Ram, Rom, Leg, AHH, Rodeo, Customs)? 
>
> Is personal size as much of an issue and I am expecting it to be?  I am 
> 5'8" and 150lbs if I round up.  I expect that tire sizes would feel 
> different for someone who is 6'3" and proportionally heavier.  
>
> Why change my setup if it isn't broken?  Just to try new options and 
> experiment with bike fit.
>
> Thanks
> JL
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: SF Randonneur Pt Reyes Populaire 115k this Saturday?

[Bill M.]

Someday I'll get to do an SFR ride, but so far somehting has always nixed 
the idea.  This time it was a crash last Saturday, that left my mcrb 
unscathed but my aging body with three broken ribs.  No significant riding 
for me  this month.

Bill

On Friday, June 1, 2012 11:52:22 AM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> Anyone riding this Saturday? If I finish early I might head to Rivendell 
> afterwords. 
> -Manny
>

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[RBW] Re: New 650B conversion of a 1984 Miyata 912, and a foray into tubeless

[Bill M.]

To me, road tubeless has most of the disadvantages of both clinchers and 
tubulars, without enough benefits.  Clinchers with tubes are easy to 
service, easily available at many price points, and come in a wide range of 
widths and casings.  Tubulars aren't cheap and take some time and care to 
glue up, but allow for lighter wheels, including carbon rims with a much 
greater safety margin than carbon clinchers, ride more comfortably for a 
given width, and don't pinch flat easily.  Road tubeless requires tires 
that are not easily available locally for most of us, aren't cheap, have 
few choices, require clincher rims that aren't as light as tubulars, can be 
a pain to get mounted and sealed, are a mess to deal with if a repair is 
needed on the road, and won't quite ride like tubulars.  

If I had the cash to spend, I'd rather ride some light carbon tubular 
wheels (ideally with disc brakes), use Tufo tape for mounting, and carry a 
little bottle of sealant than mess with tubeless.  I don't, so alloy rims, 
clinchers and tubes are where I plan on being for quite a while to come.

Bill

On Wednesday, May 23, 2012 11:08:11 AM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote:
>
> On May 23, 12:38 pm, PATRICK MOORE  wrote: 
>
> >I'd also be curious to see how road tubeless improve on the speed and 
> >"feel" of racing tires, but as someone pointed out, these are for now 
> >all 700c. 
>
> what kind of racing tires?  i have a friend who rides a Hutchinson 
> road tubeless wheelset and he likes it quite a bit.  not far from a 
> tubular in terms of feel, but definitely stiffer casings.  it's too 
> bad that "road" tubeless hasn't really taken off - granted, it's not 
> as user-friendly and "low-pressure performance" is still kind of 
> anathema with the roadie set.  And a lot of racers have already 
> invested in tubular wheelsets (sealant works in tubulars too).  still, 
> it'd be nice to see a smattering of road UST type options.

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[RBW] Re: New build and grease

[Bill M.]

You can use Phil for everything and be just fine.  If you want to get 
obsessive, read on...

I particularly like boat trailer wheel bearing grease (the tacky blue 
stuff) for headsets.  Rolling friction isn't an issue there, so a thick, 
tacky grease that resists water washout is appropriate. If I lived in 
Seattle I'd use it in hubs too.  

For those few loose-ball hubs I have left in the fleet I'm currently trying 
out some Mobil 1 automotive grease, which has a synthetic base (should 
resist oxidation well, for long life without turning into a tacky varnish), 
and a nice smooth consistency that I think gives a bit less friction in 
rolling bearings.  Probably not measurable, but what the heck.  I haven't 
seen any negative results so far, and anything from the auto parts store is 
cheaper than the alternative from a bike shop.  I'm pretty sure I wouldn't 
want to use the tacky blue grease in a Phil or White Industries freehub.  
(Yes, I have one of each and while the bearings are sealed the freewheel 
ratchets do need to be cleaned and lubed occasionally).  I think it would 
be too thick to let the ratchet pawls to work properly.  The Mobil 1 grease 
seems to work fine for those.  Phil Tenacious Oil would probably work, too.

Any grease is probably OK for stems and seatposts, but in theory anti-seize 
compound should be better than grease at keeping those non-moving parts 
from welding together.

Whatever you use, it's best not to mix greases in any application.  If you 
are converting to a different grease, clean out all of the old stuff before 
introducing the new.  Different thickeners and additive packages can react 
chemically and cause big problems.  

One more thing, I wouldn't use motor oil for lubricating anything that's 
not a motor (like a bike chain).  Wrong additive package entirely.  A gear 
oil with EP additives is a far more appropriate choice.  My oil can has 
Mobil 1 75W-90 in it (left over from my Miata's transmission).  I use tiny 
drops of that on brake pivots and such.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Tuesday, May 22, 2012 3:44:15 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:
>
> I'm doing my first ever new build this weekend. I have a new blue 52cm 
> Sam coming on Wednesday and all the parts and am building it up for my 
> girlfriend. So what kind of grease do you guys think is best? And do 
> you use the same grease for everything, BBs, stems, seatposts, cranks, 
> etc.? I was reading some of the old Peeking Through the  Knothole and 
> Grant likes the blue, Sta-Lube marine grease. Has anyone tried that. 
> BTW, my girlfriend is not an avid rider like me, so I doubt that the 
> new Sam will be ridden in the rain and muck, etc., but still, I want 
> the good goop, since I only have just your everyday, any ol' grease 
> right now. Also any other suggestions for my first build would be 
> great. I have had every part of a bike off and on at some time or 
> another except deraillers. Thanks all.

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