[RBW] Re: Olympic Bike Racing, Cobbles, and tire width

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 4:25:42 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Dolphin's don't have thighs?:p  The olympics have been open to pros for a 
> while.  Rosters for tennis, basketball, golf, and soccer are full of pros.  
>

Don't forget gymnastics, track and swimming too!  With all the 
endorsements, appearance fees, stipends, honorarium (sp?) or whatever you 
want to call it, the top names can earn millions!  Ask Michael Phelps or 
Usain Bolt or any gold metal gymnastprobably the only true amateur 
sports are like badminton or maybe rugby. Basically, any sport that is even 
semi-commercial are going to have pro athletes. Good Luck! 

 

> On Wednesday, August 10, 2016 at 2:38:35 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> I saw some of the men's time trials today while chowing down at the sushi 
>> buffet with the wife.
>>
>> Those guys have dolphin thighs. No wonder I am such a weak rider. Gotta 
>> have respect for them. They earned the dolphion thighs and they sure do get 
>> to enjoy going fast.
>>
>> But I wondered about the pro racers. I thought Olympics was for amateurs, 
>> not pros.
>>
>> Perhaps the pros that were racing aren't currently under contract and 
>> that technically makes them amateurs?
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 10-30 minute rides

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 2:20:10 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 07/29/2016 05:13 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 10:06:51 AM UTC-7, peec...@yahoo.com wrote: 
>>
>> As ANT bicycles said once upon a time: "transport, not sport".  There is 
>> great value in riding for commutes, errands, and slow rides ridden just for 
>> the sake of enjoyment.  Exercise is a happy byproduct.  Tim Petersen
>>
>
> That's kind of a weird saying?!  Why not sport?  Yes, during the 
> week, "transportation riding" is great. We see lots of people commuting to 
> and from work here in SF. Hey, lots of people have *electric bikes* and 
> commute with their children/groceries, etc. It sure beats driving a 
> minivan! (ask me how I know!)  
>
> But on weekend, why not ride for sport (fun)?!  My buddies and I like to 
> go for nice 40 miles with lots of hills (I ride in the SF bay area and 
> hills are a way of life) and when we have the time, as much as 80 miles!  
> It is fun and we get tons of exercise. I have one friend who in the last 4 
> years got into cycling (from golf!) and has lost like 30+ pounds! He now 
> flies up the hill and really enjoys it!  Btw, he's got the latest carbon 
> Trek with di2 and loves it. Hey, if it gets him out and riding, I'm all for 
> it.
>
> Further, ANT sells a touring bike. Wouldn't riding out in the country or 
> going on a tour be a form of "sport?"  Seems more sporty than 
> transportation. 
>
>
> We don't really know the context in which "transport, not sport" was 
> said.  Perhaps they were referring to a purely transportation-oriented 
> bicycle, which - let's face it - isn't necessarily the sportiest thing out 
> there to ride.  Bike share bikes are a fine example.
>
>
>
> Capital bikeshare is a splendid addition to Metro DC's public 
> transportation system.  It's a brilliant idea.  It seems as though the 
> bikes are entirely indestructible.  But certainly not my idea of "sporty," 
> and I can hardly imagine doing a 60-80 mile ride on one of them...
>

Got it!  In SF, we got the same bikes, just a different color:

<http://sacbike.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Bay-Area-Bike-Share-on-Market-St..jpg>



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[RBW] Re: 10-30 minute rides

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 10:06:51 AM UTC-7, peec...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> As ANT bicycles said once upon a time: "transport, not sport".  There is 
> great value in riding for commutes, errands, and slow rides ridden just for 
> the sake of enjoyment.  Exercise is a happy byproduct.  Tim Petersen
>

That's kind of a weird saying?!  Why not sport?  Yes, during the 
week, "transportation riding" is great. We see lots of people commuting to 
and from work here in SF. Hey, lots of people have *electric bikes* and 
commute with their children/groceries, etc. It sure beats driving a 
minivan! (ask me how I know!)  

But on weekend, why not ride for sport (fun)?!  My buddies and I like to go 
for nice 40 miles with lots of hills (I ride in the SF bay area and hills 
are a way of life) and when we have the time, as much as 80 miles!  It is 
fun and we get tons of exercise. I have one friend who in the last 4 years 
got into cycling (from golf!) and has lost like 30+ pounds! He now flies up 
the hill and really enjoys it!  Btw, he's got the latest carbon Trek with 
di2 and loves it. Hey, if it gets him out and riding, I'm all for it.

Further, ANT sells a touring bike. Wouldn't riding out in the country or 
going on a tour be a form of "sport?"  Seems more sporty than 
transportation. 

Good Luck!


> On Thursday, July 28, 2016 at 5:55:25 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Grant mentioned this to me a few weeks ago and I thought I'd pass it 
>> along: "A 10 to 30 minute ride is always a good idea." I really appreciated 
>> this because - although I'm not trying to bust out metric centuries anymore 
>> - I still have a tendency to think short rides don't count as a "real 
>> ride." Of course that's silly, but apparently I needed to be reminded. 
>> Today I had exactly 30 minutes available before work started, so I grabbed 
>> my Bobbin mini velo (Choco-Moose bars) and hit the road. It was fabulous. 
>>
>> He also said, "You should never do a ride you wouldn't want to do every 
>> day. Well maybe 4 times a year, 5 tops." I love that.
>>
>> Joe "just (a short) ride" Bernard
>> Vallejo, CA.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 10-30 minute rides

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, July 29, 2016 at 1:12:44 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On Thursday, July 28, 2016 at 4:55:25 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote: 
>
> Grant mentioned this to me a few weeks ago and I thought I'd pass it 
>> along: "A 10 to 30 minute ride is always a good idea." I really appreciated 
>> this because - although I'm not trying to bust out metric centuries anymore 
>> - I still have a tendency to think short rides don't count as a "real 
>> ride." Of course that's silly, but apparently I needed to be reminded. 
>> Today I had exactly 30 minutes available before work started, so I grabbed 
>> my Bobbin mini velo (Choco-Moose bars) and hit the road. It was fabulous. 
>>
>> He also said, "You should never do a ride you wouldn't want to do every 
>> day. Well maybe 4 times a year, 5 tops." I love that.
>>
>>
>
> In many ways a 10 minute ride is a waste of time and a waste of an 
> opportunity.  All those people who have potential issues with bone 
> density/osteo-whatever, would be much better off walking the two miles, 
> thereby strengthening their bones, than riding, which does nothing for them 
> other than sheer transportation.  It's not long enough to even act as 
> exercise.  And at this time of year (the entire country being in the midst 
> of a continent-wide sweltering heat dome) it's too short to make it worth 
> while to change into comfortable clothing, and in uncomfortable clothing, 
> even a mere paltry 10 minutes of effort will make you so uncomfortable 
> you'll give up on the entire idea.
>
> A half hour is more like it: you can get much farther in that time than 
> you can walking, and 30 minutes of cycling is actually enough to do you 
> some good in terms of exercise, even though it's not long enough to really 
> enjoy yourself.  An hour is better than a half hour; two hours is better 
> still, and three hours is even better.   But for real fun, 5-8 hours is 
> more like it.
>

I agree with Steve. I live in SF and on a hill.  During the week, I have a 
10 mile round trip commute. It takes about 20 minutes to get to work, but 
it is mostly downhill and flat. Nice easy warm up that I almost never sweat 
as its usually too cold (foggy and cold morning with heavy mist today!)  
Going home is a different story. It takes about 45 minutes to get home and 
it is mostly uphill. The last mile or so is a climb. I love it! By the time 
I get home I have a nice sweat and just change or shower.

On the weekends, I'm all for the long ride. I usually do a 40 or so mile 
loop with 4000ft of climbing. But this year, I seem to have more time and 
have done several 60-80 mile rides with as much as 6000 ft of climbing that 
last from 5-7 hours!  We actually have to stop off and eat to get some 
energy for the ride home. Note to self - no ice cold IPA beer and sausages 
at the 1/2 pointmakes the ride home really, really difficult of 
course, YMMV! Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Getting the message out.

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, June 2, 2016 at 9:53:51 AM UTC-7, Evan Baird wrote:
>
> Peter, that's already happening. The problem is that the traditional LBS 
> model is failing, and moat comminities don't have access to coop 
> workspaces. As a "veteran" shop rat, I have a dewp affection for the LBS 
> and the culture surrounding it, but I've also seen first hand how the 
> chevanism, zenophobia and elitism that people encounter in many shops can 
> turn them away from the "sport". Those of us who are deciples of Sheldon 
> will get along regardless, but the average dealer isn't going to be able to 
> compete with ecommerce. If the industry insists of pushing products that 
> are increasingly not user servicable we're going to see a lot more Circut 
> Cities and Comp USAs in the bike world. Shops need to be welcoming 
> community spaces. There'sno room for mediocre service in this economy.


This is really good advice. However, things are going to get worst and/or 
harder for the LBS. OK, people here aren't into the "racing" bike 
thing. But, many shops who cater to those folks  are about to get a rude 
awakening as another new business model is going to be launched!  

*Canyon * bikes, established in 
2001 and headquartered in Koblenz, Germany. has  adopted an internet based 
direct sales strategy, effectively cutting out the ‘middle man’, allowing 
Canyon to build bikes that represent exceptionally good value.  I have at 
least one friend who has the latest in bikes - 2016 Trek Domane SLR with 
Sram Etap wireless shifting - can't get any fancier than that! - is 
drooling over the soon to be Sram Etap wireless with hydraulic brakes and 
has already stated that his new bike will be a Canyon SLX with Sram Etap 
hydro disc brakes!  

In his case, he has a nephew who is a "Trek U" trained mechanic who 
services his bikes. He basically ignores LBSs, even thou we have some very 
good ones in the SF Bay Area and only orders things online. For him, the 
Canyon is the most logical and really only way to go.  

Now, you may say, yeah that's one guy. But there are literally hundreds, if 
not thousands of guys like this. 

Personally, I prefer to give my business to my LBS. He is fine with me 
bringing in my own parts and only charges me labor for his time spent on my 
bikes. He's been in business for over 40 years. He's had his shares of ups 
and downs and more than once has said his accountant told him that he could 
make much more money doing anything else. But his love for cycling is 
second to none and he just happens to be one of the best mechanics 
around. If I'm not doing the work myself, I go to him or another one-man 
shop to help keep these guys in business. I also recommend my LBS to 
everyone  especially for fitting. It's hard to be a LBSGood Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Tire wear question. When to replace?

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 1:57:27 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Or, you could do as Saint Sheldon recommended, and put the new tire on 
> the front and rotate the front tire to the back.  


Don't forget the rest of it, take the rear tire and throw it out when it is 
worn!  
 

> It's important to have 
> a good tire on the front.  This insures the best one's on the front, and 
> -- as with other versions of rotation schemes -- prolongs the life of 
> the tire. 
>

I agree that the best tire should always be in front. That is why - new 
front, old front to rear and throw out the rear when it is worn.

Good Luck! 

>
> On 05/27/2016 04:23 PM, ian m wrote: 
> > Rotate your tires, you should get less wear on the front than the rear 
> and can possibly prolong the life of the tire. Good to do this semi 
> regularly so you don't end up with one tire much more worn than the other 
> > 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Chainrings...when to replace?

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 9:42:53 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> http://www.wiggle.com/ta-110-pcd-zephyr-middle-road-chainring-34-39t-1/
>

Interesting, when you call the ring "inner" ring instead of "middle" ring, 
you get the 33t included, but no 39t:

 http://www.wiggle.com/ta-110-pcd-zephyr-inner-road-chainring/

Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 2:03:46 PM UTC-7, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> You may remember my past thread about needing a good bike for my 7 year 
> old child. The List graciously pointed me to Islabikes. The Portland dealer 
> was lovely; the rep asked what I ride, and was very complimentary upon 
> hearing it is a Rivendell. Islabikes create bikes that just make good sense 
> - ergonomics aside, they have provisions for racks and panniers and 
> fenders, good stuff. I began to think of them as "Riv-ish." 
>
> Imagine my dismay today when I saw the unveiling of their new "pro line" 
> of bikes. Carbon forks! In children's bikes! Lighter carbon than their 
> competitors, even! Oh, let's not even tell Grant. Not after yesterday's 
> BLUG post...
> http://www.islabikes.com/pro-research-and-development/
>

I don't get this post. According to their website, Islabikes still offers a 
wide range of aluminum bikes with what steel forks for children:

http://www.islabikes.com/product-category/bikes/

So what if they are expanding into carbon?   I don't think a carbon bike by 
itself is going to cause all the death and destruction that many people 
fear. Instead, I think it taps into a market that may be missing, i.e., 
those who kids want to get in to cross or mtb racing.  Since Redline has 
removed itself from the cross market, there is an opening for someone like 
Islabikes to get in.  Good Luck!


 

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Brewster Fong]

Thanks. I learned about the fork mount cable stop after I picked up the 
mini-v brake. I think that would have made a difference. Unfortunately, I 
no longer have that bike, so I'll never know if it would have made a 
difference.

However, I am in the market for a cross bike, unless I break down and buy 
the latest Trek carbon with etapI've borrowed a friend's Black Mtn 
Cycles (BMC) cross bike and it is a very nice bike so far. It has Paul 
mini-vs and so far, very nice.  Not a big fan of tig-welded frames, so I 
may considering a Della Santa as he's builds a nice bike at a very 
reasonable price.

Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 11:24:04 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:

>
>  Definitely not the XC pro brakes Brewster.  I find them very easy to 
> setup and adjust, and the for the bikes I have owned or used the best 
> performing brake. As with everything bike, one person's bliss is another's 
> hell and no one can explain it so don't bother ;)  No biggie. I have found 
> some bikes just don't go well with certain brakes, and there is always 
> another brake to try. Glad you found something that worked for you !  And 
> this is the essence of this entire subject, there's many brakes(and 
> whatever) to choose from, none of them in themselves superior or inferior 
> to the other, just another kind of brake. 
>
>One thing that may have helped you Brewster is to use a fork crown 
> mounted Tektro cable stop, so your cable and housing go directly to it 
> instead of the one long from the headset. The cable drop then is very short 
> and I noticed a difference right away in using it. 
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 12:30:11 PM UTC-4, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Agree, on my bike I was using a Campy ergo lever with a crappy front 
>> suntour xc pro canti brake, and kool stop salmon pads, I would get it 
>> working nicely for a couple of rides, then it would revert back to 
>> the shuddering and chattering that I hated when braking! Then I put on a 
>> cheapie tektro 926al front mini-v  and lo and behold, no more 
>> chattering/shuddering/squealing!  It just worked!  I'll admit to being a 
>> crappy mechanic and believe that the suntour is either a terrible front 
>> brake or a very difficult one to adjust. Interestingly, I had the suntour 
>> on the rear and had zero problems with it. So, I left it on. But, mini-v 
>> brakes are my choice for a front brake. Of course, you excellent mechanics 
>> can make anything work, so YMMV!  Good Luck! 
>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 24, 2016 at 3:53:00 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> From what I see on the forums, it's the cyclocross bikes that seem to 
> have the worst time with brake shudder.  The "impossible to adjust" is, 
> in my opinion, down to incompetent mechanics.  Hard, sure; impossible, 
> nonsense. 
>

Agree, on my bike I was using a Campy ergo lever with a crappy front 
suntour xc pro canti brake, and kool stop salmon pads, I would get it 
working nicely for a couple of rides, then it would revert back to 
the shuddering and chattering that I hated when braking! Then I put on a 
cheapie tektro 926al front mini-v  and lo and behold, no more 
chattering/shuddering/squealing!  It just worked!  I'll admit to being a 
crappy mechanic and believe that the suntour is either a terrible front 
brake or a very difficult one to adjust. Interestingly, I had the suntour 
on the rear and had zero problems with it. So, I left it on. But, mini-v 
brakes are my choice for a front brake. Of course, you excellent mechanics 
can make anything work, so YMMV!  Good Luck! 

>
> On 05/24/2016 05:03 AM, Matt B. wrote: 
> > For the life of me I can't understand the bad rap cantilever brakes 
> > get in these discussions.  I've had them on most of my bikes, from old 
> > mafac or dia compe style to newer shimano style, and have never had a 
> > difficult time adjusting them or maintaining them, or using them in 
> > the rain, or snowy weather (provided you know what to expect from 
> > them, you can account for it in your riding). I ride daily year round 
> > and am sticking with cantilevers, but have also used and would be fine 
> > with old weinmann centerpulls, sidepulls, or u-brakes. 
> > 
> > The horrible reputation cantilevers (and now all rim brakes in some 
> > cases) have, when these kinds of 'this or that' argument come up, 
> > tends to make me mistrust similar sentiments about other technology 
> > with which I don't have any experience. I get the feeling issues just 
> > get blown way the hell out of proportion. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 1:15:21 PM UTC-7, Mike in WA wrote:
>
> The only maintenance I've had to do on Avid BB7's in a year of running 
> them is adjusting the calipers every so often with then turn of a screw and 
> changing the pads. I do not miss having to try to conjure devil magic (or 
> relying on LBS) to adjust V-brakes to reduce squealing or (worse) cantis to 
> work properly at all. 
>

That's good to know. But Avid BB7s are mechanical brakes, not hydraulic. I 
believe my friend had Shimano hydraulic on his bike. I will agree that 
trying to reduce squealing and chattering on cantis is crazy. I hate 
cantis! However, I had no problems getting Tektro mini v-brakes to work 
properly!  I bought the cheapie Tektro 926al to replace my crappy Suntour 
xc pro canti brake and it was like night and day. No more adjustments, 
squealing or shuddering!  For $20 or less if you buy on line, it is a real 
bargain! 

Good Luck! 

>
> On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 1:04:30 PM UTC-7, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 12:27:38 PM UTC-7, Peter White wrote:
>>>
>>> Replacing a warped disc is a lot cheaper than rebuilding a wheel. A 
>>> customer brought in his tandem wheel a few weeks ago. It had a slightly 
>>> dented rim. If the tandem had rim brakes he would have needed the rim 
>>> replaced. But since it is disc, all it needed was a bit of truing. The dent 
>>> isn't bad enough to affect the ride or the seating of the tire.
>>>
>>
>> Agree. The flip side is disc brakes can be difficult to maintenance, 
>> especially if it has hydraulic disc brakes. One of my friends with a C'dale 
>> cross had a really hard time bleeding his brakes. He brought in a mobile 
>> mechanic who couldn't do it. But, the mechanic was able to contact the 
>> mfr and they found a problem with the caliper, which was replaced under 
>> warranty! So far, so good!
>>
>>  With rim brakes, changing pads is a piece of cake and he would have 
>> never had any problems. Of course, YMMV!  Good Luck!
>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 12:23 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com> 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I think Rich may be on to something. But is this really a problem or is 
>>>> it theoretical?  There are probably 100s of thousands, if not million of 
>>>> bikes out there with disc brakes!  Yes, it's new for road bikes, but there 
>>>> have been disc brake mtbs and cross bikes for at least what 5, if not 10 
>>>> years.  But a broken spoke is fairly minor and usually can be easily fixed 
>>>> at most LBSs.  Further, a broken spoke could be from something else or it 
>>>> may be from this poor dish, but everyone thinks its from something else.
>>>>
>>>> So, it doesn't seem like that big a problem. Maybe a survey of shops is 
>>>> needed to see how many disc-brake equipped bikes come in with broken 
>>>> spokes 
>>>> that require only a few dollars and minutes to fix.
>>>>
>>>> So far, my two or three friends with disc brakes love it and haven't 
>>>> broken any spokes yet! 
>>>>
>>>> Good Luck! 
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 1:55:43 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Well, I've personally built several disk wheels & a couple of those 
>>>>> were fronts and will be building 2 or 3 more shortly. (On top of that I 
>>>>> have probably built a couple dozen non disk wheels) No disrespect to Rich 
>>>>> but the front disk hubs I have used required no dish at all! Typically, 
>>>>> (from what little I've seen) the manufacturers relocate the non braking 
>>>>> side flange further inboard so that no dishing of the wheel is needed and 
>>>>> while I prefer not having any dish in the wheel I am not sure whether I 
>>>>> wouldn't prefer it to the loss of triangulation that results from moving 
>>>>> the flanges in to compensate for the disk.
>>>>> I used the term sprung weight mearly as a counterpoint to the rolling 
>>>>> weight and because a better term did not come to mind. It was not the 
>>>>> significant point of the topic anywayz. The main point that you obviously 
>>>>> missed was that less rotating mass is preferable to less weight in the 
>>>>> frame. AND not to be argumentative or go into too much pointless 
>>>>> explanation, but a bicycle frame on spoked wheels would be considered 
>>>>> sprung weight! 
>>>>> Your

Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 12:27:38 PM UTC-7, Peter White wrote:
>
> Replacing a warped disc is a lot cheaper than rebuilding a wheel. A 
> customer brought in his tandem wheel a few weeks ago. It had a slightly 
> dented rim. If the tandem had rim brakes he would have needed the rim 
> replaced. But since it is disc, all it needed was a bit of truing. The dent 
> isn't bad enough to affect the ride or the seating of the tire.
>

Agree. The flip side is disc brakes can be difficult to maintenance, 
especially if it has hydraulic disc brakes. One of my friends with a C'dale 
cross had a really hard time bleeding his brakes. He brought in a mobile 
mechanic who couldn't do it. But, the mechanic was able to contact the 
mfr and they found a problem with the caliper, which was replaced under 
warranty! So far, so good!

 With rim brakes, changing pads is a piece of cake and he would have never 
had any problems. Of course, YMMV!  Good Luck!

>
> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 12:23 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> I think Rich may be on to something. But is this really a problem or is 
>> it theoretical?  There are probably 100s of thousands, if not million of 
>> bikes out there with disc brakes!  Yes, it's new for road bikes, but there 
>> have been disc brake mtbs and cross bikes for at least what 5, if not 10 
>> years.  But a broken spoke is fairly minor and usually can be easily fixed 
>> at most LBSs.  Further, a broken spoke could be from something else or it 
>> may be from this poor dish, but everyone thinks its from something else.
>>
>> So, it doesn't seem like that big a problem. Maybe a survey of shops is 
>> needed to see how many disc-brake equipped bikes come in with broken spokes 
>> that require only a few dollars and minutes to fix.
>>
>> So far, my two or three friends with disc brakes love it and haven't 
>> broken any spokes yet! 
>>
>> Good Luck! 
>>
>> On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 1:55:43 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>>
>>> Well, I've personally built several disk wheels & a couple of those were 
>>> fronts and will be building 2 or 3 more shortly. (On top of that I have 
>>> probably built a couple dozen non disk wheels) No disrespect to Rich but 
>>> the front disk hubs I have used required no dish at all! Typically, (from 
>>> what little I've seen) the manufacturers relocate the non braking side 
>>> flange further inboard so that no dishing of the wheel is needed and while 
>>> I prefer not having any dish in the wheel I am not sure whether I wouldn't 
>>> prefer it to the loss of triangulation that results from moving the flanges 
>>> in to compensate for the disk.
>>> I used the term sprung weight mearly as a counterpoint to the rolling 
>>> weight and because a better term did not come to mind. It was not the 
>>> significant point of the topic anywayz. The main point that you obviously 
>>> missed was that less rotating mass is preferable to less weight in the 
>>> frame. AND not to be argumentative or go into too much pointless 
>>> explanation, but a bicycle frame on spoked wheels would be considered 
>>> sprung weight! 
>>> Your friends Trek probably just got a bum wheel, my XO-1s front wheel 
>>> broke several spokes when I first got it, tore it down rebuilt it, no 
>>> further problems. 
>>> The average rider probably doesn't break too many spokes regardless of 
>>> configuration, which was part of the point of what I was making. If you 
>>> break a lot of spokes you need a new wheel builder.
>>>
>>> My experience with trying to straighten pieces of metal like brake 
>>> rotors is that typically you do more harm then good. The tolerances on 
>>> disks are so small that a wobble of less then a millimeter effects whether 
>>> it will rub or not and by extension how good it will work. I have seen 
>>> people "shrink" metal, using a torch/heat, but again I might cause more 
>>> harm then good.
>>>
>> -- 
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>
>
>
> -- 
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>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Brewster Fong]

I think Rich may be on to something. But is this really a problem or is it 
theoretical?  There are probably 100s of thousands, if not million of bikes 
out there with disc brakes!  Yes, it's new for road bikes, but there have 
been disc brake mtbs and cross bikes for at least what 5, if not 10 years.  
But a broken spoke is fairly minor and usually can be easily fixed at most 
LBSs.  Further, a broken spoke could be from something else or it may be 
from this poor dish, but everyone thinks its from something else.

So, it doesn't seem like that big a problem. Maybe a survey of shops is 
needed to see how many disc-brake equipped bikes come in with broken spokes 
that require only a few dollars and minutes to fix.

So far, my two or three friends with disc brakes love it and haven't broken 
any spokes yet! 

Good Luck! 

On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 1:55:43 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:

> Well, I've personally built several disk wheels & a couple of those were 
> fronts and will be building 2 or 3 more shortly. (On top of that I have 
> probably built a couple dozen non disk wheels) No disrespect to Rich but 
> the front disk hubs I have used required no dish at all! Typically, (from 
> what little I've seen) the manufacturers relocate the non braking side 
> flange further inboard so that no dishing of the wheel is needed and while 
> I prefer not having any dish in the wheel I am not sure whether I wouldn't 
> prefer it to the loss of triangulation that results from moving the flanges 
> in to compensate for the disk.
> I used the term sprung weight mearly as a counterpoint to the rolling 
> weight and because a better term did not come to mind. It was not the 
> significant point of the topic anywayz. The main point that you obviously 
> missed was that less rotating mass is preferable to less weight in the 
> frame. AND not to be argumentative or go into too much pointless 
> explanation, but a bicycle frame on spoked wheels would be considered 
> sprung weight! 
> Your friends Trek probably just got a bum wheel, my XO-1s front wheel 
> broke several spokes when I first got it, tore it down rebuilt it, no 
> further problems. 
> The average rider probably doesn't break too many spokes regardless of 
> configuration, which was part of the point of what I was making. If you 
> break a lot of spokes you need a new wheel builder.
>
> My experience with trying to straighten pieces of metal like brake rotors 
> is that typically you do more harm then good. The tolerances on disks are 
> so small that a wobble of less then a millimeter effects whether it will 
> rub or not and by extension how good it will work. I have seen people 
> "shrink" metal, using a torch/heat, but again I might cause more harm then 
> good.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Brewster Fong]

Agree! I'm considering having a cross bike built and will probably go with 
Paul mini-moto v-brakes. I was talking to one of my friends and he said I'm 
building a "period piece!" Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, May 17, 2016 at 10:52:01 AM UTC-7, reynoldslugs wrote:
>
>
> Well, this has been enlightening. 
>
> It was a pretty good blug post.  I like the non-technical part: "This is 
> just a BLUG, not a stone tablet."
>
> Many of these posts have been pretty thoughtful, and I enjoyed the 
> discussion.  Of my 30-odd bikes, none are disk-, I mean disc-braked. So, I 
> think I'll have one built and see if i like it.
>
> on that note, I'm going for a ride.
>
> Max in Sunny Sonoma County
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 3, 2016 at 12:23:33 PM UTC-7, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 3, 2016 at 7:52:55 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>
>> My vote for the best value-for-money crank/bb bearing assembly type is 
>> the Ashtabula; I wonder if these could be refined and lightened? Carbon 
>> fiber? But, in any event, they seem indestructible, even after riding 
>> through streams and watching muddy water flow out upon emerging.
>>
>
> Patrick,
>
> Where have you been?! Yes, Look has its one-piece, carbon fiber (what 
> else?!) Ashtabula-type crank on the market since about 2011:
>
> Zed 2 crankset:
>
>
> http://branfordbike.com/images/library/features/look_zed2crank_small_11_f.jpg
>
>
> http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Praxis-Works-OEM-Chainrings-Look-Crankset-2.jpg
>
> Zed 3 crankset:
>
>
> http://www.lookcycle.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/560x374/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/z/3/z3_03.jpg
>
>
> http://www.lookcycle.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/560x374/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/z/3/z3_02.jpg
>
>
> I think you have to find a Look dealer to get more info.  
>
> I did find Glory Cycles has the Zed 2 for $1250:
>
> http://glorycycles.com/look-zed-2-crankset/
>
> So it's not cheap! 
>
> Good Luck! 
>
> Patrick, never mind!  It appears the Look Zed cranksets are only 
compatible with frames that have a 65mm bottom bracket shell?!  It is my 
understand that even Look only offers one frame that fits this crank?! 

http://www.lookcycle.com/en/us/route/velos/695-light-bike.html

But I did find one shop that has this frameset and crankset "on sale" for 
$4550!

https://www.racycles.com/road/look/look-695-aerolight-premium-ipack-3051

Calfee is the only other builder I found who offers a frame for this crank, 
but is a package deal, but it is only for its Manta Pro frameset module 
that retails for $6095, and includes; Chris King Inset 7, Enve/Whisky fork, 
Look ZED2 crankset and Praxis Works chainrings.  That's a lot of 
moneyGood Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 3, 2016 at 7:52:55 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>
> My vote for the best value-for-money crank/bb bearing assembly type is the 
> Ashtabula; I wonder if these could be refined and lightened? Carbon fiber? 
> But, in any event, they seem indestructible, even after riding through 
> streams and watching muddy water flow out upon emerging.
>

Patrick,

Where have you been?! Yes, Look has its one-piece, carbon fiber (what 
else?!) Ashtabula-type crank on the market since about 2011:

Zed 2 crankset:

http://branfordbike.com/images/library/features/look_zed2crank_small_11_f.jpg

http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Praxis-Works-OEM-Chainrings-Look-Crankset-2.jpg

Zed 3 crankset:

http://www.lookcycle.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/560x374/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/z/3/z3_03.jpg

http://www.lookcycle.com/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/560x374/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/z/3/z3_02.jpg


I think you have to find a Look dealer to get more info.  

I did find Glory Cycles has the Zed 2 for $1250:

http://glorycycles.com/look-zed-2-crankset/

So it's not cheap! 

Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Segwaying from Garbage Pail Bike thread: pros and cons of CF and Steel?

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 4:34:00 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Nice, and with 10-year guarantee. 33s + fenders, please. $5,300 -- could 
> be worse, but although I expect that CF is (in itself) an excellent 
> material for some bicycle parts and for frames, I expect that, for my 
> riding, the 52% premium over top of line steel isn't worth the savings in 
> weight and (possible) improvement in strength.
>
 
I think the problem is you're not comparing apples to apples.  
Yes, a Crumpton will cost $5300 for a frame. But he is considered one of 
the top carbon frame builders in the US and maybe the world. Yes, you can 
get a "premium" steel frame for less, maybe even 52% less. But, if you 
really want to compare a Crumpton, then you should compare it to what the 
top steel frame builders charge.
 
Since there are 100s of steel frame builders in the US, one way to compare 
is to look at wait list. Richard Sachs and Sasha White/Vanilla have 
arguably the longest wait list for steel builders that has people waiting 5 
to 6 YEARS?!  If that makes them the "top" steel frame builders, then the 
price of a custom Sachs or Vanilla is around $5000 or about the same as a 
Crumpton. 
 
Further, Brent Steelman is asking $4850 for a custom lug frame and others 
like Bruce Gordon and Mark DiNucci are in the $4000+ range. In contrast, a 
custom Riv is "only" $3500 and I last I heard, their wait list is about two 
years?! 
 
Of course, you can find quality steel builders for less, i.e., Della Santa 
or Paul Sadoff/Rock Lobster, but if you want to compare apples to apples, 
you look at the builders with the longest wait list first. Or at least, 
that is one criteria.
 
Good Luck!

>
> I do have to say that, IMO, in the "pretty" and the "cool" categories, 
> steel wins hands down. ("Cool" since steel has all that "Coppi rode it and 
> so did the ungainly, brutal, peasant-stock hardmen of steel back to 1903*" 
> history.)
>
> *1st Tour. I know that it was used before 1903.
>
> Scott: do you own a Crumpton?
>
> On Tue, Jan 19, 2016 at 5:23 PM, Scott G.  > wrote:
>
>> Call Nick Crumpton, say you want a lifetime road bike that will fit 33mm 
>> tires.
>> I think you'll be very pleased with your carbon bike.
>>
>> Downside of carbon is that costs near double a same quality steel bike.
>>
>> Steel vs. Carbon, is the cycling nutters version of the Arian heresy.
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on which all conditions, distinctions, and individualities 
> revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Stat crux dum volvitur orbis.* *(The cross stands motionless while the 
> world revolves.) *Carthusian motto
>
> *It is *we *who change; *He* remains the same.* Eckhart
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon.* (*It moves [all things] as the beloved.) *Aristotle
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Garbage Pail Riv sighted in Berkeley

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 7:18:13 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 01/19/2016 10:01 AM, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> *"I have never been forced to accept compromises but I have willingly 
> accepted constraints."*  - Charles Eames 
>
> I am also an Industrial Designer and teacher of future designers.  Carbon 
> fiber is the choice of many young designers because, like any plastic 
> material, it seductively can be any shape you want it to be reducing or 
> eliminating constraints of materials and manufacturing processes.  It 
> continues to be a staple in the bike industry because (1) the public was 
> led to believe it is better and (2) to go back to steel would reveal the 
> flaws in carbon.  
>
>
> Well, also it's lighter.  It's debatable how significant that is for 
> recreational riders, but at some point in competition when all else is 
> equal it does become very significant: 2 seconds slower on a climb and you 
> get dropped from the pace line, and then it's game over.  Total BS for most 
> of us, especially those who don't ever ride in pace lines, but for racing 
> it's a big deal.
>
I agree that the "lighter" factor is huge and the biggest seller of why 
carbon is better than other material. The general thinking, at least 
according to my friends, is that ever little bit helps. Therefore, if I'm 
getting a bike that is lighter, i.e., 15-16lb carbon bikes with standard 
parts like Sram Red, DA or Record/Chorus, why get steel or any other 
material?!  So if they can get a bike that is 3-5lbs lighter, it will help 
them get up the hill, even if it is only "2 seconds faster."

>
>
> This is why the resurgence we've witnessed in steel bikes has been driven 
> primarily by small manufacturers rather than larger ones.  Those same 
> smaller manufacturers such as Surly, have gained popularity only to get 
> bought by larger companies (such as QBP) so they can produce steel bikes 
> without tarnishing the rep of their brands who produce carbon ones. 
>  
> Unfortunately, many younger designers haven't witnessed the cost cutting 
> that has gone on the past few decades so they aren't as aware of the 
> shortcuts companies take in order to hit a certain price point in the 
> market.  We build with cheaper materials, ship those materials to the 
> manufacturing vendor who offers the most for the least money and we don't 
> oversee what goes on in their plants as tightly as we should (which is why 
> Apple's manufacturer of choice, Foxconn is now under such scrutiny for 
> problems at their plants).  Consumers and company shareholders shoulder a 
> large portion of the blame with consumers demanding more and more cheap 
> goods and shareholders demanding higher profits fueling this race to the 
> bottom.  We like stuff.  I bought a Riv (as well as many other products I 
> own) because they make great bikes that make me happy and I believe in 
> Grant's relationships with their manufacturers, his choice of materials and 
> processes and ability to create magic within those constraints.  That 
> authenticity costs a great deal more than the cost-reduced products 
> generated by a large percentage of the companies today (Giant being one of 
> them).  You get what you pay for and sometimes even less.  I wouldn't be 
> surprised if that Giant frame probably cost $20-50 bucks to build. 
>  Granted, you get a great deal on the parts because they are swinging such 
> mass quantity discounts with Shimano (who are also shortcutting their 
> processes to make their profits).  The rest of that $1999 he mentioned 
> covers the assembly, marketing and Giant's massive overhead costs (which 
> were reduced a bit by offloading manufacturing overheads to vendors in 
> China).  This doesn't even allow for much expense allocated to "clean 
> manufacturing" which is why China (and previously Mexico) is suffering so 
> badly from manufacturing generated pollution.  Paul Hawkin's "Ecology of 
> Commerce" is a good read that starts to get at some of the issues related 
> to the real costs of goods, at least from a sustainability angle.
>
> That blog writer/designer's treasure will be trash long before a 
> Rivendell, or any of those vintage, lugged steel project bikes we refurbish 
> because they were so well designed and manufactured in long lasting 
> materials with methods intended to withstand the test of time.
>
>
> Two of my main rides, one steel and one titanium, were made in 1991, and 
> one of my bikes dates to the mid-80s.  I don't think of any of them as 
> "vintage" partly because they either were initially built for, or have been 
> modified to accommodate 130mm OLD indexed 8 or 9 speed drive trains rather 
> than 120mm 5 speed friction-shifting.  
>
 
Agree. A couple of years ago I bought an old litespeed classic ti frame. It 
was only $400 and that included a Serotta ti head tube extender (heads 
up!).  A great deal. I bought a carbon fork (Columbus Minimal 1" fork) and 
put on a mix of campy and shimano and it 

Re: [RBW] Re: Garbage Pail Riv sighted in Berkeley

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 11:35:25 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 01/19/2016 01:41 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 19, 2016 at 7:18:13 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 
>  
>
>> I can't imagine seeing any 25-30 year old carbon bikes in regular use.  
>> Of course, partly that's because there were few to begin with, and the old 
>> ones are badly obsolete now; but also because I doubt carbon bikes hold up 
>> that well over time.  It's not quite so bad as "dispose of the frame when 
>> the chain wears out," but I don't think anyone expects them to be in 
>> service as long as we expect for steel and titanium.
>>
>  
> I have to disagree in part with this point. My 1994 Calfee that I bought 
> used is considered a dinosaur compared to the lightweight carbon coming out 
> of Taiwan these days. The calfee is build like a tank compared to the newer 
> carbon stuff.  Nevertheless, I bought it used in 1997 and it is still going 
> strong today. Since it is over 20 years old, wow has it been that long?!, 
> it is still in great shape and I expect it to easily last another 20 
> years.  Further, if it gets damaged, I can always drive down to Santa Cruz, 
> about an hour or so south of SF, to have it repaired.  Good Luck! 
>
>
> Fair polnt: I wasn't thinking of a Calfee when I wrote that, but rather 
> production carbon bikes.   Of course, the people who like modern carbon 
> frames probably wouldn't be attracted to a Calfee in the first place, as it 
> looks "all wrong" and doesn't have that "modern" swoopy appearance.
>
 
Agree. Interestingly, for a "production carbon bike," Trek has the Emonda 
which when built up with Sram Red weighs in at 10.25lb for the complete 
bike!  
 
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road/performance-race/%C3%A9monda/%C3%A9monda-slr-10/p/1479200-2016
 
This bike supposedly has a rider weight limit of 275lb!  Now, if I had an 
extra $15k laying around, I think it would be a very interesting bike to 
check outGood Luck!  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul brakes recommendation

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, January 4, 2016 at 1:32:52 PM UTC-8, Matthew J wrote:
>
> > The Paul brakes were all set up on road bikes, using road bike levers. 
> The V brakes are using V-brake specific levers. 
>
> I have had good luck matching the Paul Min-Vs with Campagnolo Record MTB 
> Flat Bar levers which I believe were made for a year or two in the early 
> '90s.  The modern MTB levers I tried did not work well.
>
 
Yes, mini-v brakes, which were originally designed for BMX bikes, work 
great with road levers!  On my cross bike, I used a cheapie Tektro 926al 
mini-v brake (under $20) with my Campy ergo levers and it was far superior 
to the crappy Suntour xc pro canti brake that I had on there. It was like 
night and day! No more squealing, shuddering or vibration of any sort. 
 
I heard from a friend who writes for a cx rag that the Paul minimoto mini-v 
brake is arguably the best non-disc brake in dry conditions. Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] PSA: Eroica California early registration

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 12:39:16 PM UTC-8, Justin August wrote:
>
> So - just so I understand, for mostly academic reasons, not that I'm going 
> to enter, but maybe?
> I could use my Saluki _if_ I used
> - non-aero levers
> - Downtime shifters
> - Shallow rims ala the Pacenti PL23 in 32 spoke or more
> - Pedals with clips and straps
>
> Is that all?
>
 
The rules specifically states:  
 
Vintage-Looking Bikes with steel frame from new or recent construction with 
vintage look and characteristics may be used only if they are *road racing 
bikes* assembled using vintage components or replicated parts similar to 
the original as described above. In particular if the bikes are inspired by 
the design of *road racing bicycles of the 1970’s and 1980’s*, they must 
comply with rules a), b), and c) above, regarding shift levers, toe clips 
and straps, and brake cables. (emphasis added).
 
So the question is whether your Saluki would fit in as a "road racing 
bicycle of the 70s and 80s?!" Good Luck! 

>
> -J
>
> On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 12:32:38 PM UTC-8, Justin August wrote:
>>
>> You can get some from SOMA right now for 20% off!
>> -J
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 30, 2015 at 12:29:59 PM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:
>>>
>>> 6.1(a) and 6.1(c) might be hard for many Rivendell owners to meet, 
>>> that being, downtube shifters required and brake cables that go over 
>>> the handlebars.  I don't recall Rivendell selling brake levers with 
>>> the traditional out-the-top cable arrangement in recent years. 
>>>
>>> But otherwise, it sounds like an awesome event. 
>>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 30, 2015 at 1:29 PM, Jim M.  wrote: 
>>> > I know some of you listers did this ride last year because I saw you 
>>> there. 
>>> > Early, discounted registration for the 2016 ride ends tomorrow. 
>>> > 
>>> > http://www.eroicacalifornia.com/ 
>>> > 
>>> > I will be there with my Eisentraut, sitting on my Riv/BOB-ish Brooks 
>>> saddle 
>>> > and rolling on 30mm tubulars. 
>>> > 
>>> > I'm just posting this as a reminder, and not trying to start a 
>>> polemic. But 
>>> > I know some of you can't resist whining about the rules or caviling in 
>>> > general, so let the kvetching begin. 
>>> > 
>>> > Winter cheers! 
>>> > jim m 
>>> > wc ca 
>>> > 
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>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do you ever find yourself tempted by brifters?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, December 10, 2015 at 6:08:28 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> "Brifter" is a mashup of BRake lever and shIFTER. I'm pretty sure it was 
> invented by Grant, and not intended to be a denigrating label. It's simply 
> a way to call them something without using "STI" or a long phrase like 
> "integrated brake/shift lever."

 
 Sheldon Brown's glossary names the person who coined the term:
 
A combination brake/shift lever, such as a *Campagnolo* 
 *Ergo* 
 or *Shimano* 
 *S.T.I.* 
 unit. This term was coined by 
Bruce Frech.

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[RBW] Re: Polished Sugino Crankset

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, November 24, 2015 at 4:02:01 PM UTC-8, LBleriot wrote:
>
> Thanks Mark. I found a Zephyr 36T inner but am having trouble locating a 
> 48t outer. I may have to bite the bullet and shell out the $ to Harris 
>  Cycles to get that mirror finish.

 
Wiggle sells TA chainrings for about $57. Unfortunately, it appears they 
are out of 48t, but have 47t and 49t in silver. They do have 48t in black, 
but that's not what you want.
 
 http://www.wiggle.com/ta-110-pcd-zephyr-mtb-outer-chainring/
 
Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: soma san marcos?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 1:59:43 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I believe it's still available from SOMA, plus there always seems to be a 
> few on Ebay. I suspect the Ebay underpricing situation is why Riv stopped 
> selling it..Grant mentioned it about a year ago on the Blug.

 
Interestingly, Soma's website show a sale on the pearl blue 59/63cm SM 
framesets at about $850 (while supply lasts):
 
 http://store.somafab.com/sosanmadotof.html
 
But if you don't mind the tiburon blue color, its available in all sizes at 
the regular $930 price:
 
http://store.somafab.com/sosanmafr20.html
 
Soma's website explains the changes for 2015:
 
*CHANGES for 2015:* The 47 thru 57cm (57cm is a new addition) are designed 
for 650b wheels and 55-75mm reach road brakes. Max. tire fit: 38mm
The 59cm and 63cm are designed for 700c wheels and 55-75mm reach road 
brakes. Max. tire fit: 35mm
The 59 and 63cm have that Rivendell double top tube to restore the 
triangulation lost with the tall top tube.
 
Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Almost OT, Mini Moto vs Neo Retro

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 3:12:02 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 09/01/2015 06:09 PM, Michael Hechmer wrote: 
> > I have ver little experience with V brakes, but as long as they don't 
> > crowd the fender I can't see why they wouldn't work as well as 
> > traditional cantis. 
>
> Don't most V brakes have a cable pull incompatibility with road bike 
> brake levers and integrated brake/shift levers like SIS, DoubleTap & Ergo? 
>
 
Yes, "regular v-brakes" (i.e., 90mm or more length arms) are designed to 
work with levers that have a longer pull. However, the "mini-v" (i.e., 84mm 
or so length arms) works works well with integrated shifters.  On my old 
cross bike, I had a pair of crappy Suntour xc pro canti brakes with Campy 
ergo shifters. No matter what I did, I just couldn't keep the front brake 
from shuddering, squealing and vibrating. It was so bad that I could easy 
see my fork vibrating as I was braking, it was terrible!  Even when 
adjusted, it would last like a day or so and then back to the racket!  
 
Then I tried a cheapie $20 Tektro 926al mini-v on just the front and wow, 
night and day!  No more shuddering, squealing or vibrating!  
The braking was as good as my road bikes that have single pivot brakes.  
I gave away the suntour and am now a big believer in mini-v brakes for road 
levers.  
 
Good Luck! 
 

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[RBW] Re: Purple for a Riv?

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, September 1, 2015 at 11:51:36 AM UTC-7, RJM wrote:
>
> As soon as I sell a bunch of stuff I'm ordering another Roadeo...(yes, 
> that will make two. I hav big plans ;)  ). I'm debating in my head about 
> the color choice. My current one is a Rambouillet orange and it is sweet 
> looking. I was thinking of some shade of purple for the next one but really 
> have never seen a riv with a purple paint job, something like a deep purple 
> and not too flashy. What do you all think about that color?   
> Now that I bring it up, what are your favorite colors for Rivs?
>
 
Not a Riv, but this 25th Anniv Della Santa is purple and very nice looking:
 
 https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!topic/internet-bob/HN4s9Ja_ZII
 
At $850 for the bike and $500 for the frameset, I'm suffering because it is 
just my size!  But, I need to resist as I have too many road bikes and need 
a cross.Good Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Does Science Now Support ... Just Ride ?

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, July 31, 2015 at 1:50:50 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:



 On 07/31/2015 04:41 PM, Liesl wrote:

 Aaach this one hit home.  My sister died at age 51 of tachycardia and her 
 daughter struggles with it as well.  As I was reading the article, I found 
 out someone I knew died within the past hour of a heart attack. My dad had 
 three heart attacks in a week and died from the third at age 58.  At 56, my 
 doc says my ticker takes after my mom's side, which is good news.

 The article was really good and thoughtful.  I think there's a paradigm 
 shift that needs to happen; Just Ride is part of it.

 I always feel a bit of a slacker when I read about all the centuries 
 here.  Today I'm good with just riding.



 But centuries *are* just riding -- unless you go out of your way to 
 make them competitive.

 
Agree. In the SF Bay Area, it seems like the hottest centuries are the gran 
fondos. I asked a friend who loves them what is the difference between 
the gf and the rides put on by the various bicycle clubs.   He told me that 
at a gf, you get a racer like Levi or the latest one Jensie (Jens Voigt) 
riding AND there's a clock as the ride is timed! So I said there must 
not be any rest stops if everyone is riding for time. He said No, there are 
lots of rest stops with food, water, etc. He also said he stops at each one 
too. I didn't ask, but I thought, if you're stopping at the rest stop, 
what's the purpose of the clock?Good Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: ...whereby a stone became caught up in his wheel

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, July 28, 2015 at 6:34:50 AM UTC-7, stevef wrote:


 And swapping bikes due to a mechanical is one thing but when they swap one 
 working bike for another, say lighter one, for a climbing section, that 
 seems a bit much...

 
I wonder if that was really the reason for the switch. After all, the UCI 
has a weight limit of like 6.8 or 6.9kg (14.99lbs), so how much lighter 
wouldthe new bike be?!  I suppose he could have had a heavier, more 
aero bike, but they had just had to go up the HC Col de Fur prior to 
climbing alpe d'huez, so why not have the lightest bike throughout 
the entire race, like everyone else?  Good Luck! 
 


 Steve


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Re: [RBW] Re: The Silver Hubs

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 11:23:24 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Novatec, probably.

 
Yup, looks very similar to these, but in the nicer silver color!

http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Novatec-Ultra-Light-Rear-Hub---For-Shimano-SRAM-F482SB/m-18345.aspx
 
silver hubs:
 
 
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hu-1.htm
 
Good Luck!
 

 On Jul 17, 2015 1:20 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: wrote:

 I was wondering the same thing about the bearings.  A few years ago I had 
 Rich build me a set of 700c wheels and he described the hubs as no brand 
 but made by a Taiwanese company that he ID'd by two or three letters.  I'm 
 betting they are from the same company as the Silver hubs.  Mine are 
 definately cartridge bearing and you can see the seals of the cartridges.  
 So far, they have been flawless and still spin like a brand new set.  



 On Friday, July 17, 2015 at 12:46:39 PM UTC-5, Ginz wrote:

 What do y'all think of the new Silver hubs?  Are they cartridge 
 bearing'd?  It looks that way in the photo but I'm not certain.

 I've been thinking of building up a rear mtb wheel for the Hunq using 
 Shimano XT.  This would be better, I think.


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[RBW] Re: Clementine Believer

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 2:34:19 PM UTC-7, Wayne Naha wrote:

 I really like the black Clemintine, the one pictured on the Blug is 
 luscious.  But I admit, I am scared of the swoop down top tube.  It just 
 seems so mechanically not well thought out.  A mixte has a much better 
 design for dealing with frame stresses, that seems like a reasonable frame. 
  But this Clemintine, could it do a loaded tour?  Could one do a century on 
 such a bike?  It does seem great for around town, short trips and such. 
  But I can't see doing trails on it.  Wouldn't it be too flexy?  I was 
 trying to convince my wife to get one when I realized that I wanted one. 
  But the frame design worries at me.

For cruising, the clemintine should be fine. A few years ago, I bought my 
daughter a Schwinn step-thru comfort bike. For cruising around, and doing 
short trips, it works fine. Our schwinn looks very similar to the 
clemintine without the fancy lugs. Check it out:
 
http://www.sears.com/schwinn-women-s-suburban-cs-26inch-comfort-bike/p-00630016000P?prdNo=11blockNo=11blockType=G11\
 
At about $250, it was actually a good deal and my daughter actually likes 
it!  Of course, YMMV! Good Luck!
 


 On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 9:57:43 AM UTC-4, A. L Young wrote:




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Re: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 18, 2015 at 11:03:00 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 05/18/2015 01:24 PM, Mike Schiller wrote: 
  ...of course we all must realize  that the most well researched, 
  carefully chosen, and costly bike/stroller may not be the best choice 
  for a person/use.  The person on their $5000+ carbon bike most likely 
  feels that they made an informed decision even though they would be 
  more comfortable on an upright bike with proper gearing and a 
  comfortable seat ( where have I heard that before?). 

 Why are we all assuming the person who bought the $5000 carbon road bike 
 made a bad choice?  Simply because you saw them riding on the MUP with 
 it?  It may be their only bike, and although it might be sub-optimal for 
 a MUP they may do most of their riding on roads and in groups where such 
 a bike is a perfectly appropriate choice. What's more, because you are 
 more comfortable on an upright bike, why assume they would be?  Not 
 everyone finds road bikes uncomfortable, and not everyone finds upright 
 bikes comfortable. And, of course, everyone's idea of a comfortable seat 
 is different. 

 
Of course, now a days, a lot of $5000 carbon bikes are designed with 
upright seating position for more comfort!  For example, last year my 
buddy, who just got in cycling, went into a Trek store and bought that $5k 
carbon bike! Electronic di2 shifting, tubeless ready wheels (I was able to 
talk him into 700x25 tires!), 600 series carbon frames, integrated garmin 
sensors Well, he also got the H2 fitting position! This is the one 
that has a sloping top tube and a higher head tube for, guess 
what?.waityup, to get that handlebar higher!  Not only is my buddy 
comfortable, he ended up losing 30+lbs and is now one of the fastest guys 
up the hill!   What's not to like?! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: BQ to publish study of pedal retention usefulness in Summer issue

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 18, 2015 at 1:51:41 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 05/18/2015 04:42 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
  

 On Monday, May 18, 2015 at 11:03:00 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: 

 On 05/18/2015 01:24 PM, Mike Schiller wrote: 
  ...of course we all must realize  that the most well researched, 
  carefully chosen, and costly bike/stroller may not be the best choice 
  for a person/use.  The person on their $5000+ carbon bike most likely 
  feels that they made an informed decision even though they would be 
  more comfortable on an upright bike with proper gearing and a 
  comfortable seat ( where have I heard that before?). 

 Why are we all assuming the person who bought the $5000 carbon road bike 
 made a bad choice?  Simply because you saw them riding on the MUP with 
 it?  It may be their only bike, and although it might be sub-optimal for 
 a MUP they may do most of their riding on roads and in groups where such 
 a bike is a perfectly appropriate choice. What's more, because you are 
 more comfortable on an upright bike, why assume they would be?  Not 
 everyone finds road bikes uncomfortable, and not everyone finds upright 
 bikes comfortable. And, of course, everyone's idea of a comfortable seat 
 is different. 

  
 Of course, now a days, a lot of $5000 carbon bikes are designed with 
 upright seating position for more comfort!  For example, last year my 
 buddy, who just got in cycling, went into a Trek store and bought that $5k 
 carbon bike! Electronic di2 shifting, tubeless ready wheels (I was able to 
 talk him into 700x25 tires!), 600 series carbon frames, integrated garmin 
 sensors Well, he also got the H2 fitting position! This is the one 
 that has a sloping top tube and a higher head tube for, guess 
 what?.waityup, to get that handlebar higher!  Not only is my buddy 
 comfortable, he ended up losing 30+lbs and is now one of the fastest guys 
 up the hill!   What's not to like?!
  

 The Trek H2 is a far cry from upright.   For most riders other than 
 racers, it's far more appropriate than the H1, though.

 
I don't know, the shop gave him quite a bit of spacers and the bar was 
actually pretty high. Maybe not Nitto technomic high, but his bars were 
definitely pointed up! In fact, once he loss weight, I hate him, he 
actually flipped the stem because he was able to get lower!  I just 
laughed. But as long as he's comfortable, that is what matters! Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Racers want fatter tires

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 11:02:08 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Somewhere out there i remember seeing a slow-mo video of tires rolling 
 over the cobbles at Paris Roubaix. There was a lot of 'straight to the rim' 
 impact happening. I think the tubular choice has more to do with avoiding 
 flats and reducing rotational weight than anything. 

 I ride FMB cx tubulars, 33mm, and I can definitely say they are like 
 riding on a cloud, but that is significantly more volume!

 
At least for the classics, it appears most teams are now going to 26-28mm 
wide tires and some want wider like 30mm!  Further, they using bigger gears 
ranging from 11-27 to 11-32! 
 
 
http://www.cyclingnews.com/news/tour-of-flanders-tech-wider-tires-bigger-cogs-the-norm
 
Good Luck!


 On Mon, Apr 6, 2015 at 12:24 PM, Brewster Fong bfd...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:


 On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 7:22:55 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

  It's absolute madness to me that some guys run 23/25s!

  
 I don't know. Most of the racers ride on tubular tires. If you listen to 
 all the tubular fanatics, nothing rides more smoothly than tubulars and 
 even at 23/25mm width, they're way more comfortable than the average 
 clincher tire. So, would a 700x25 tubular tire at say 80-90 psi be as 
 comfortable?  Of course, the 30mm dugast tires that Specialized and others 
 used in PR are tubulars, so they would be even more comfortable! Good Luck! 
  


 On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 1:22:31 AM UTC-5, Paul G wrote:

 Race mechanic, Rob Geysen, wishes his team's race bikes had clearance 
 for tires wider than 28mm at today's Tour Of Flanders. Will race bikes be 
 designed for fat tires (again) in the future? 

 http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/wider-is-better-
 at-flanders-43995/

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[RBW] Re: Racers want fatter tires

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 7:22:55 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

  It's absolute madness to me that some guys run 23/25s!

 
I don't know. Most of the racers ride on tubular tires. If you listen to 
all the tubular fanatics, nothing rides more smoothly than tubulars and 
even at 23/25mm width, they're way more comfortable than the average 
clincher tire. So, would a 700x25 tubular tire at say 80-90 psi be as 
comfortable?  Of course, the 30mm dugast tires that Specialized and others 
used in PR are tubulars, so they would be even more comfortable! Good Luck! 
 


 On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 1:22:31 AM UTC-5, Paul G wrote:

 Race mechanic, Rob Geysen, wishes his team's race bikes had clearance for 
 tires wider than 28mm at today's Tour Of Flanders. Will race bikes be 
 designed for fat tires (again) in the future? 


 http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/wider-is-better-at-flanders-43995/



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[RBW] Re: New bicycle brand from Merry Sales = New Albion

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, March 23, 2015 at 8:06:05 PM UTC-7, Bill M. wrote:

 Ahem.

  
 The New Albion Brewing Company was founded in 1976 in Sonoma, CA, and was 
 the first modern American microbrewery.  

 
Actually, it is debatable whether Albion was the *first* modern American 
microbrewery!  Anchor Brewery which started in 1849, came out with its 
Anchor Steam Beer in 1971!
 
 http://www.anchorbrewing.com/brewery/our_history
 
 

 Any guesses what their label looked like?

 http://www.beerinfo.com/2012Winter/NewAlbionBottle.jpg
 The name is now owned by the folks that make Sam Adams, and apparently the 
 brand has been re-introduced with essentially the same graphics.  

 I can't quite believe that the head badge was designed with no 
 foreknowledge of the beer brand labels, especially given the beer reference 
 on the bikes' home page, and a model called Homebrew.  It feels a little 
 disingenuous to me.  I'd feel better about it if Merry Sales and KE would 
 acknowledge the connection overtly, but that might run them into some 
 copyright issues with the folks that own the name in the brewing world.

 Bill
 Stockton, CA

 On Monday, February 17, 2014 at 12:28:35 PM UTC-8, grant wrote:

 I swear to God, Allah, Buddha, the Dalai Llama, Bob Dylan, and 
 Nebuchadnezzar that I had nothing to do with it. Jim from Merry Sales DID 
 email me early art of the badge, and I said hmmm, really...? Was a little 
 bummed, but more surprised than bummed, I also know a nd like the badge 
 designer, talked to him about it, have made peace with all, and at no point 
 did things get even close to ugly. After Jim assured me it was not 
 functionally like the Atlantis, no problem. The first one was the red road 
 bike. Next, this Betty Foy-ish colored mixte. It's all fine, but Nope, I 
 had nothing to do with it.

 We may come out with our own boodjay bike in a year, but --- that's just 
 a rumor at this point.

 On Friday, February 14, 2014 7:40:06 PM UTC-8, eflayer wrote:

 http://newalbioncycles.com/
  
 Makes me wonder if, or the degree to which, Grant Peterson may be 
 associated with these bikes. Not sure how they are differentiated from 
 Soma, but some nice stuff coming.



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[RBW] Re: brake advice

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 1:31:54 PM UTC-7, dougP wrote:

 I also put the TRP CX8.4s on my wife's Atlantis with 26 x 1.5 tires.  No 
 fenders  plenty of clearance.  I liked it so much I considered doing the 
 same thing to my old MTB with 26 x 2 Schwalbes.  The wire would have just 
 touched the tire, and would not have worked with knobs or fenders.  It came 
 with cantis so I suspect the canti post location differs between the 2 
 bikes, with Rivendell locating theirs for maximum clearance.  

You may already know, but if you need more clearance, TRP does offer a CX9 
that has 90mm of arm length instead of the 84mm on your CX8.4.  However, 
the CX 8.4 is designed to work with Campy Ergo/Sram double tap/Shimano STI 
if you use them. Not sure how well the CX9 would work with integrated 
shifters.  Good Luck! 


 dougP

 On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 7:37:18 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

 For what it's worth, I have TRP CX8.4's and they just brely clear 
 continental 35mm file-treads with some planet bike fenders. The brake cable 
 actually touches the fender. They are 8.4cm tall. Thinking I'll sell them 
 because they have such limited fender clearance. 

 Not to derail this... but I keep hearing talk about these new fat Compass 
 tires... but I can't find ANY details... are there going to be wider 700c 
 tires?? I know there is talk of fat 26ers.

 On Tuesday, March 17, 2015 at 8:24:23 AM UTC-5, Will wrote:

 To share some information, since I suspect as the new Compass fat tires 
 get adopted, folks will have brake questions... My initial concern was 
 clearing P65 fenders. 

 I emailed Riv and Paul Industries. Brian at Riv, reco'd Shimano CX 70s. 
 Says he has them on 3 cycles. Paul Price was kind enough to respond as 
 well. He reco'd Motolites. 

 Will




 On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 1:22:01 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 the fattest tires I've ever seen MiniMotis get around were 700x45.  I 
 think 26x2.00 plus fenders is too much for MiniMotos

 On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 9:02:16 AM UTC-7, Will wrote:

 Thanks. That's a good question. At the moment the bike has Continental 
 Touring tires. I'm guessing they are 40s or thereabouts. But I am pretty 
 sure the end game for this Atlantis will be one of the Compass 26 
 fatties. 
 So big clearance is the main concern.

 Took the bike out for an early am spin. I continue to be hugely 
 impressed. 

 Will

 On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 3:00:39 AM UTC-5, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Hey Will,

 It will probably depend on the tyres and stud placement to some 
 degree. My guess, without actually knowing your setup, is that any tyres 
 that require 65 mm fender are going to be too big for a 'cyclocross' 
 mini 
 V-brake. I tried full-size V-brakes with 60 mm Big Apples and 60 mm 
 Berthoud fenders on my Bombadil, and they didn't work—this was Shimano 
 XT 
 brakes, which have longer arms than Paul Motolites (which of course have 
 longer arms than mini V-brakes).

 Maybe if you tell us your tyre size someone will have already tried 
 it on an Atlantis?

 Good luck,

 Tom



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[RBW] Re: thoughts on wheels.....

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, March 16, 2015 at 7:43:25 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:

 Good post except I wish the blogger were more clear on what he means by 
 freewheel hubs making less robust wheel.  

 Most likely the reference is that most multi-speed freewheel hubs on the 
 market today are lower budget.  There are many a wheel built with freewheel 
 hubs from the day by the likes of Phil Wood and MaxiCar with many years and 
 tens of thousands of miles on them.

 
I think the problem is that most users rarely used PW or Maxicar freewheel 
hubs. In fact, I don't recall Maxicar ever having much of a presence here 
in the US back in the late 80s/early 90s.  I know we use to drool over 
Campy and Mavic hubs.  For touring, PW was the one people wanted.  I 
believe the key with PW and Maxicar hubs were the oversized axles. 
 
As Sheldon stated, Shimano solved the issue of broken or bent axles by 
putting bearings further out on its cassette freehub.  Campy still has 
bearings inboard, but solved the broken or bent axle by using an oversized 
axle.  


 And for those looking to do single speed touring, I know for a fact Rich 
 Lesnik will recommend White Industries Eno freewheel hubs.  

 
White Industries build great hubs. For a single speed, the Eno is hard to 
beat. Then again, for a cassette hub, the latest T11 is one of the best on 
the market! Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant sets them straight with letter to editor

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 3:15:16 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 02/25/2015 05:39 PM, Brewster Fong wrote: 
  Now, this is nothing but anedotal and just one example, but for my 
  buddy, the right tool got him going! I don't care what it was made out 
  of, but the supposedly stiff, uncomfortable aluminum frame road bike 
  got him hooked and we love it! 

 Some of those Alu Specialized road bikes have riding positions very 
 similar to what GP was advocating back in 2002.  I know quite a few 
 people who have them and like them a lot.  I think the Zerts inserts are 
 pure placebo and the bikes would be better off with something wider than 
 a 25mm tire, but for something you can just walk into a LBS and get for 
 (by modern standards) relatively cheap money, there are lots worse bikes 
 people could buy. 

 Yes, it is not just Specialized, but all the biggies - Trek, C'dale and 
Giant to name a few - now offer more upright riding position for all 
their bikes.  For example, Trek sells its carbon bikes with a H1 fit. 
That's the standard racing fit with low, low bars and super high saddles.  
BUT, they also sell the same frames/bikes with a H2 fit that has higher 
bars and a more upright riding position. In fact, this is how the 
new 10.25lb Trek Emondo, or whatever it is called,  is being offered. Then 
again, if you're really going to spend $15k for a bike, it better be 
available in any position that you want! 
 
I believe the credit for this positioning goes to Grant and his famous 
raise dat stem article that came out in the late 90s?!  Now, if we can 
only do something about G's fetish with double top tubes (on a 56cm frame!) 
and carbon bashing, we might have somethingGood Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant sets them straight with letter to editor

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, February 26, 2015 at 11:13:15 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 I own a 56cm Rivendell with a second top tube.  Brewster Fong thinks my 
 bicycle is stupid and worthy of ridicule.  I think my bicycle is beautiful 
 and I love riding it.  

 My Bomba 
 https://www.flickr.com/photos/45758191@N04/8474652710/in/set-72157632769612752

 Brewster Fong thinks it is wrong for Grant to insult carbon fiber, but he 
 doesn't mind insulting my bike.  I get it!  Brewster Fong says whatever 
 gets you riding!, but obviously doesn't really mean it.  I really mean it. 
  If you love your bike, 

 
You're right Bill. I should have clarified, I wasn't talking about the 
looks of double top tubes, but the *need* for it, especially on a 56cm 
bike?  Maybe you can tell us how wonderful it rides compared to a single 
top tube. Personally, I never ridden a bike with two tts, but think it 
would stiffen the bike. Wrong?  Hey, since my foot is in my mouth, maybe 
the double tt helps the bike plane!  Further, the double tt is not 
limited to Rivendell, there's a guy at my work who rides a Sycip with 2 tt:
 
http://sycip.com/project/cruiser-town-bikes/
 
Btw, I have a 18 year old carbon bike that many people find ugly! It's a 
Calfee with the gussets (webbing). There are many, many people out there 
who think its one of the ugliest bikes made. I agree, its not the 
prettiest, but man, it is so comfortable to ride!  Oh yeah, and very 
durable too! 
 
Nevertheless, I still think its wrong for Grant to insult carbon. Hey, he 
makes a good product and should be proclaiming the virtues about steel and 
his bikes. After all, doesn't he have like a 3 year wait list for one of 
his customs?  
 
So go enjoy your bike! Since it doesn't rain here any more, that means more 
time to ride! Good Luck! 
 
 

 that's awesome!  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Thursday, February 26, 2015 at 9:46:43 AM UTC-8, Brewster Fong wrote:


 On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 3:15:16 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar 
 wrote:

 On 02/25/2015 05:39 PM, Brewster Fong wrote: 
  Now, this is nothing but anedotal and just one example, but for my 
  buddy, the right tool got him going! I don't care what it was made out 
  of, but the supposedly stiff, uncomfortable aluminum frame road bike 
  got him hooked and we love it! 

 Some of those Alu Specialized road bikes have riding positions very 
 similar to what GP was advocating back in 2002.  I know quite a few 
 people who have them and like them a lot.  I think the Zerts inserts are 
 pure placebo and the bikes would be better off with something wider than 
 a 25mm tire, but for something you can just walk into a LBS and get for 
 (by modern standards) relatively cheap money, there are lots worse bikes 
 people could buy. 

 Yes, it is not just Specialized, but all the biggies - Trek, C'dale and 
 Giant to name a few - now offer more upright riding position for all 
 their bikes.  For example, Trek sells its carbon bikes with a H1 fit. 
 That's the standard racing fit with low, low bars and super high saddles.  
 BUT, they also sell the same frames/bikes with a H2 fit that has higher 
 bars and a more upright riding position. In fact, this is how the 
 new 10.25lb Trek Emondo, or whatever it is called,  is being offered. Then 
 again, if you're really going to spend $15k for a bike, it better be 
 available in any position that you want! 
  
 I believe the credit for this positioning goes to Grant and his famous 
 raise dat stem article that came out in the late 90s?!  Now, if we can 
 only do something about G's fetish with double top tubes (on a 56cm frame!) 
 and carbon bashing, we might have somethingGood Luck! 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant sets them straight with letter to editor

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 1:42:01 PM UTC-8, ascpgh wrote:

 The right tool for the job, and the humbleness to recognize when such are 
 necessary.

 Folks really do take themselves too seriously. 

 
Agree! I love these types of threads! You see all sides. I'm from the camp 
that if CF bikes, lycra gets people riding, well go for it! I have a buddy 
who for over 20+ years, we've been trying to get him out and riding with 
us. For 20+ years, he says naw, all I need is my old  is my old mtb. He 
hated dt shifters and thought the positioning on a road bike was too 
painful.  
 
Then about 4 years ago, he wanted a new bike and went into a Specialized 
dealer. They put him on an aluminum road bike, but one designed for higher 
bars with a wider seat and BAM, he was hooked! Not only did he buy the bike 
and wanted to ride, he actually upgraded to the carbon model within 2 
weeks!! Further, and I'm not done yet, two years later he started talking 
to us about getting a new bike?! The next thing you know he walks into a 
Trek dealer and drops $5K+ on a Madone with the latest ultegra di2!  
Moreover, and you all will love this, this guy, who was 5'11 190, got so 
into riding that he DROPPED 30 POUNDS Yup, all of a sudden, he has the 
latest clothing (lycra jersey, shorts, the whole 9 yards) and is killing 
everyone blasting up the hill?!!  Now, this is nothing but anedotal and 
just one example, but for my buddy, the right tool got him going! I don't 
care what it was made out of, but the supposedly stiff, uncomfortable 
aluminum frame road bike got him hooked and we love it! 
 
Btw, for all you paleo lovers, you'll hate this guy! While dropping 30lbs, 
he still eats like a pig and that includes massive amounts of noodles, rice 
and bread (hey, a guy's got to carbo load!)
 
In the meantime, I'm just the opposite and can't drop an ounce. Maybe I 
need to do that paleo thingGood Luck!


 Andy Cheatham
 Pittsburgh


 On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 9:53:57 AM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On 02/25/2015 09:41 AM, Will wrote: 
  Why do you need to wear special clothes to ride? Not arguing, just 
  curious. I've been riding for about 50 years. Newspaper bikes as a 
  before teenage years, then Raleigh racers in college. Shorts and tee 
  shirt have always worked for me. What's the advantage of bike shop 
  attire? 

 I will never forget the first time I tried to ride a century.  It was 
 1973, and I had a P15 Paramount.  I was wearing a T shirt, BVDs, cut off 
 denim jeans for shorts, some kind of sneakers and no gloves.  By the end 
 of the ride I had branded into my memory the true meaning of the Johnny 
 Cash song Ring of Fire -- blazing lines of pain on my backside from 
 the seams on both underwear and denim shorts, parallel grooves of pain 
 in my feet where the edges of the pedals had transmitted their pressure 
 through the soles of my sneakers.  My hands felt as though they were on 
 fire as well.  Every 10 miles or so I'd stop and lie down on the ground 
 and try to will the agony away, but by mile 75 I realized I'd been 
 wishing a dog would run out in front of me so I could crash and just lay 
 down on the pavement.  At that point I stopped and waited for the SAG 
 wagon.  It's the only time I've ever SAGged back from a century. 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant sets them straight with letter to editor

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 6:21:59 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Guilty as charged.  In fact I am definitely not an adherent to Grant's 
 thoughts on cycling attire.  I'm wearing plum-smuggling cycling shorts 
 every time I ride, unless it's a very, very short ride.

 But unlike some folks, I don't feel any pressure to conform to the Unracer 
 philosophy.  It's just more ideas about how to make cycling more enjoyable 
 and accessible to all

 
Agree. When I ride recreationally with the boys on the weekend and 
ride between 40-60 miles, I prefer lyrca and jerseys.  I also like riding 
my carbon bike as its very comfortable! :) However, I live in SF And when I 
commute, it is in street clothes. Since the ride is only 10 miles rt, but 
with hills coming home, its not too bad. Further, while commuting it seems 
that most people are in street clothes. You occasionally see a rider in a 
kit, but mainly it seems like most people commute in street clothes.
 
What's funny is one time, while commuting, I saw a friend stopped at a 
light in her car. She waved at me as I rode pass. Later, I get an email 
from her specifically commenting on why I wasn't in spandex (I later 
corrected her that the proper term is lycra)? I told her that for long 
rides, spandex works for me. However, for my short commute, street 
clothes works too and is actually preferable as most people who commute do 
so in street clothes! 
 
Also, on any given Saturday or Sunday morning at the Golden Gate Bridge, 
the meeting spot for most groups, you see a wide assortment of lycra!  
Almost everyone is in lycra and riding a CF bike!  You do see the what I 
call Rivendell guys out there too. But they actually kind of stand out 
dress like bums in their baggy shorts, searsucker shirts, etc.  Further, 
their bikes always look well used with racks and big tires, at least 
compared to the CF riders.  Still, you can tell they're having fun, just 
like the CF guys.  OK, maybe the Riv guys seem to have more fun than the CF 
guys, as the latter are more serious and ready to get down to 
business!  
 
We just laugh and go at our own speed! Good Luck!


 On Wed, Feb 25, 2015 at 7:39 AM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 Every day, there are frightful sights in lycra on every bike path

 On Wednesday, February 25, 2015 at 2:18:24 AM UTC-6, Peter M wrote:

 Every runner knows those Damn walkers are just in the way [image: ] 
 Must be winter. 
 On Feb 25, 2015 2:50 AM, 'pb' via RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owne...@
 googlegroups.com wrote:



 On Tuesday, February 24, 2015 at 8:18:22 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:

 pb,

 Hmmm...I'm glad that you found a few good LBS's, 


 No, I called three, and got three answers.  I made three calls.  I got 
 three answers.  I chose the three because they were representative of 
 three 
 major corporate entities.
  

 but have you read a mainstream bicycle magazine recently? I see all 
 sorts of articles and advertisements glorifying racing and bikes so 
 lightweight that they are completely impractical for normal use. I see 
 VERY 
 few articles and advertisements featuring practical and reliable bikes or 
 articles that espouse using a bike for transportation rather than for 
 only 
 racing or exercise. Transportation? What's that? A fun ride that isn't a 
 race? What's that?


 Do you read Vogue to find articles on dungarees or Harris tweed?  Do 
 you read GQ to find out what to wear when gardening?  I don't even 
 know what the mainstream bicycle magazines are any more. I do know 
 that Bicycling (does it still exist?) didn't offer a new article, 
 or cover, in twenty years.  They just recycled the old ones on a regular 
 basis (Climb better in 30 days!  Get faster in 30 days!  Prepare for a 
 century in 30 days!  Get leaner in 30 days!).  I hope you don't pay to 
 read 
 it.  Doug, are you confusing magazines with actual journalism?  Magazines 
 exist to make money, and they'll print whatever they think will sell 
 copies.  Apparently what you think is interesting isn't what they think 
 will sell copies.  Does that prove something about your local bicycle 
 shop, 
 or does it just indicate that maybe you're looking at the wrong magazine, 
 which you knew before you picked it up.   
  

 I don't think that Grant just invented this issue. The phenomena is 
 quite real. Grant's message resonates with many because the racing 
 phenomena IS real.


 No, Grant didn't invent the issue, but he has fed the flames, and kept 
 it alive, and he has perpetuated a stereotype, and he has offended folks 
 along the way.  For no reason.  And I assure you that it has affected his 
 bottom line by marginalizing him.  Canonize him for that if you wish.  


  And yes, I do (quite often) encounter smug racers in their spandex 
 uniforms who disparage practical cyclists. They are mostly wannabe's and 
 not real racers, of course. But they are numerous and annoying just the 
 same.


 Oh come on.  There are rude 

[RBW] Re: Paul Brakes -- Wow!

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 10:26:03 AM UTC-8, Clayton wrote:

 I have to jump in here.. I have always been taught and discovered on my 
 own, that the straddle cable should be as close to perpendicular, or at 90 
 degrees, to the center of the brake pad lever *when it hits the rim*. 
 You can do this experiment on your own. Get a stick. Tie a string to it. 
 Lay the stick on the ground and lift the string. Lift perpendicularly and 
 then from different acute angles, inline with the stick. If you lift from 
 acute angles, the stick slides, which is energy wasted. If you set up your 
 brakes with a too short straddle cable, you lose feel and the leverage 
 forces change as you apply the brakes. Starts out soft and weak, and 
 increases as you apply the brakes because the angle gets closer to 90 
 degrees. Over 90 degrees, and you get weak brakes. The brake arm is just a 
 lever. It works best, like all levers if you lift from the end at 90 
 degrees. The brake arm pivot placement is basic too. Long arm on the 
 straddle cable side, shorter arm on the rim side. It does not matter at all 
 when it comes to straddle cable length. The only lever the straddle cable 
 acts on is the long side. The distance between the pivot and rim, and pivot 
 and straddle cable angle is fixed and you can't change it. After 20 years 
 plus of running cantilevers and being a mechanic for YETI cycles back in 
 the heyday, a shop manager and mechanic, I finally gave up.  I run V-brakes 
 now, which are much more powerful, especially with long Cool Stop salmon 
 pads. Braking is at near disc power. I can easily do a nose wheelie, using 
 brake power alone. The feel is so good, I can anti-lock brake the front. 
 Apply, feel it start to slide, let loose and rebrake. The only thing I 
 don't like and it is very minor, is the hood shape on the Cane Creek Road 
 V-brake levers.  There is far more clearance with panniers and I don't poke 
 my calf anymore. Everyone here loves their cantilevers. They are prettier 
 and match the aesthetic of Rivendell. I get that, but for me the 
 superiority of V-brakes has become beautiful in itself. 


Agree! I too tried cantis (Suntour xc pro) and hated them in the front. 
Tried koolstop salmon pad and no difference. My fork shudder, the brakes 
squealed and if my Campy ergo levers weren't adjusted just right, the lever 
would bottom out. 

Switched out the front Suntour xc pro canti brake for a cheapie Tektro 
926al v-brake, an under $20 brake, and voila, fantastic braking! No more 
squealing, shuddering or bottoming out!!! Made me like riding my cross bike 
again!  So, my next cross bike will be getting canti and I'm leaning 
towards Paul minimotos.  But, if money was an issue, I wouldn't hesitate to 
put on a set of cheapie tektro v-brake!  Good Luck!

 


 On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 7:33:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:

 Deacon,

 The thing is, that definitely does not increase the leverage. 

 The the vertical component of the tension in the straddle cable is equal 
 to the tension in the brake cable (well half on each side).
 Lengthening the straddle cable reduces the tension in it as well as 
 changing the angle at which it meets the brake arm. The vertical component 
 of the tension stays the same, and the horizontal component is decreased.
 The net result is less torque around the brake post for a given force on 
 the brake lever.
 For a wide profile brake like the 720, where the end of the arm is barely 
 above the pivot, the decrease in leverage is relatively small. But it is a 
 decrease, not an increase. To get an increase in leverage by lengthening 
 the straddle cable the end of the brake arm would have to be below the 
 pivot.

 Again I'm not claiming that the longer straddle cable didn't work better 
 for you, just that the cause of the better can't have been increased 
 leverage.


 On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 6:56:40 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Kellie, I went with touring in the back because I got them used and 
 that's the set up that was available. It's a set up common to folks who 
 want the most power for the front brake, and clearance for panniers in the 
 rear.

 Ted, lengthening the saddle cable make the angle of the brake cable to 
 the brake arm closer to 90˚, and that definitely increased leverage. Here's 
 what it looked like:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07/14450777149/in/set-72157645649878184

 With abandon,
 Patrick



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[RBW] Re: Ambrosio Zenith hubs - any good?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, January 15, 2015 at 9:34:40 AM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I got in on a post-Christmas sale and bought a pair of Pacenti SL23 
 650B 32h rims for half price.  They are a more-triangulated rim 
 somewhat like the Deep V (but wider) which for whatever reason I seem 
 to have better luck with not breaking spokes and so forth, probably 
 because they can take higher spoke tension to begin with.  These 
 particular rims are rated for 125kgf max. 

 I was wanting to get an SP Dynohub for the front build, which I will 
 buy from Rivendell because they have a good price and I like 
 supporting them.  For the rear, I was perusing the Interwebs for a NOS 
 Ultegra 6600 or 6700 rear hub (before settling for a 105 hub) when I 
 came across these Ambrosio Zenith hubs.  They come in a fairly shiny 
 silver, which was attractive to me because I have been programmed by 
 RBW to love shiny silver things. 

 Ambrosio doesn't appear to have resellers in the USA but I found one 
 on a UK site for $63.53 USD with $12.20 Royal Mail shipping, so a 
 little less than $76 shipped to my door.  This compares favorably with 
 the costs of a NOS Ultegra hub that I was seeking out, and the hub is 
 much nicer looking than the Ultegra hub to boot. 

 There aren't that many opinions about these hubs out there, but they 
 generally seem positive.  Doing further research, these Ambrosio hubs 
 are actually made by Novatec, who makes hubs for a lot of different 
 companies that sell bike parts.  Including even the Grand Bois hubs 
 apparently, and those are over $100 more. 

 Opinions on Novatec hubs seem to vary on the quality of bearings that 
 were used in the first place in manufacturing for the particular 
 variant.  I have no doubt that Jan specifies very high quality 
 bearings for his Grand Bois hubs, for example. 

 Of course if I buy this I am hoping that Ambrosio specs the good 
 stuff, but, I could always replace the sealed bearings with something 
 better. 

 Thoughts? 

 
Good solid hubs for the money. Jan Heine use to sell these as the Grand 
Bois hubs:
 
 http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/GBHubMR.JPG
 
He raved about them how good they were and for under $76, it's pretty much 
the best hub you can get new! Good Luck! 


 -Jim 


 P.S: if Novatec builds so many hubs for 3rd parties to OEM, why 
 doesn't Rivendell get in on the action?  I could see a Silver branded 
 hub in beautiful polished silver.  Maybe the required minimum order 
 for a branded hub is more than Riv could commit to? 



 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: FRAME..PUMP?

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 11:27:51 AM UTC-8, Ojiisan wrote:

 What do you folks recommend for an under top tube mount frame pump  why? 
 Is there another emergency pump other than under top tube mount I should 
 consider? I hope everyone is having a great start to 2015! Ojii

 
I like full size frame pumps and mount mine along the left chainstay. I 
really like blackburn, but they discontinued it - errr!  I've tried the 
Topeak full frame pump and it works great, until it doesn't.  Water gets 
inside the handle and rusts out the spring. Not pretty. Never used a Zefal, 
but apparently, it is the one to get based on how others have responded. 
 
Good Luck!  

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[RBW] Re: Paul Jono Hub?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 11:22:16 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 For me the big risk is that nobody makes a good freewheel.  For good 
 freewheels, you are stuck trolling the NOS market, for the most part, or 
 accepting the Shimanopore quality level.  

 
That's interesting. What about the Interloc Racing (IRD)'s freewheels:
 
http://store.interlocracing.com/cl5fr.html
 
I thought Riv was selling them, but looking at their website I don't see it.
 


 The secondary risk is that when freewheel hubs first stretched to 130mm 
 people had more problems with axles bending and breaking.  Paul probably 
 has addressed that with his beefy aluminum axle, so I wouldn't worry too 
 much about that.  

 This is just an assumption, but to my eye the left flange seems WY far 
 to the left.  The math of spoke tension guarantees that those spokes will 
 be really loose.  I'd be a little worried about those really loose spokes 
 wanting to loosen themselves up.  I would want to talk with a trusted 
 wheelbuilder that has used that hub before I did anything with it.  My 
 first contact would be Mike Varley, who likes Paul a lot and is a trusted 
 wheelbuilder to me.  If he told me it's fine, I trust it would be fine.  

 
Is the left flange further out then a flange found  on a standard Shimano 
8/9/10 or even 11 speed cassette hub? which place the bearings outboard of 
the freehub.  Or what about a Campy cassette rear hub that has the bearing 
inside of the freehub body, but uses a very large oversized axle?






 On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 10:38:08 AM UTC-8, drew beckmeyer wrote:

 yeah, this is really interesting. i dont need a wheel built or anything, 
 but this hub seems like something nice to have around in case. i dont know 
 anything about this sort of adjustable axle.  can anyone testify to 
 potential downsides of this design?  

 On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 4:23:26 AM UTC-8, Tony DeFilippo wrote:

 I know Paul Components is thought of well around here, I love the brakes 
 and levers I have for sure.  One of their niche hubs just went on sale, the 
 Jono... anyone have any experience w/ them?  It's got an incredibly 
 adjustable axle allowing you to build it up as anywhere from 120-135mm OLD 
 and use a multi-speed freewheel.  I happen to have a '70s ish era frame w/ 
 narrow spacing around that is right now limited to single speed/fixie use 
 b/c I don't have a narrower multispeed hub so it's pretty compelling at 
 $105 new from Paul.  I'd been stalking a couple vintage used hubsets on the 
 auction site but hadn't pulled the trigger.  I figure I can't go wrong w/ a 
 Paul hub but I figured I'd check in with the group!

 http://www.paulcomp.com/jonohub.html



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Re: [RBW] Re: OT (grant-related, not Riv-related): lo-carb, high fat protein, ketosis, c.

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, November 10, 2014 1:44:50 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 11/10/2014 02:09 PM, Daniel M wrote:
  
 My friend, who is an anthropologist, has a rather different take on the 
 barefoot running / paleo diet thinking, which I will not get into now, 
 except to share this comic just inside the suggested noon cutoff. I copied 
 and pasted it into this window so my fingers are crossed that it is 
 viewable to everybody else.


 Those 20th-century guys were really on to something, no? In the paleo - 
 times that we look upon wistfully, the expected lifespan was something like 
 35 years! 
  


 How long is 100 inches in caveman years, anyway?

 As for expected lifespan: I was reading a very interesting book not long 
 ago called War: What Is It Good For?  The author contends that in 
 primitive societies the death rate due to murder and violence is very high, 
 many times higher than in more highly organized societies.  (War being good 
 for conquest creating larger societies, in which rulers in order to make it 
 easier to maintain control and to extract wealth in the form of taxation 
 suppress private violence, thereby driving death rates from violence and 
 private murder down dramatically.)

 We also know from archaeological evidence that in those primitive 
 societies with those short average lifespans, there were significant 
 numbers of very elderly being cared for by the group.  

 Kicking average lifespan around as though you could point to assumed 
 dietary differences as the major factor explanation without considering the 
 effect of war and private murder seems rather silly: it hardly matters how 
 healthy your diet may or not be when somebody is bashing your head in with 
 a big rock.

 
Agree, I also read another theory that the caveman/paleo lifespan was 
actually much longer than the 25-35 years that some people believe. The 
short lifespan included many who died at birth or by the time they were 
like 5 years old from disease or malnuitrition. If you eliminate that 
segment, it was speculated that the caveman could have a lifespan of about 
65-70 years. Now, this is still shorter than the current average for modern 
man which I recently heard was something like 78.1 years, but not 
substantial like the common misperception of 25-35 years of age. Good Luck! 
 

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[RBW] Re: Clem on the Blug

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, October 10, 2014 9:26:24 AM UTC-7, blakcloud wrote:

 I also like no bottle bosses, I think they ruin the aesthetic of the bike. 
 I know I am a minority in this regard. 

OK, I'll bite, so how do you carry your water bottles? Or, are you like 
Jobst Brandt and don't bother! Instead, Jobst liked to ride without water 
bottles and stop at a store or some place for a drink. Thanks!  

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[RBW] Re: SILVER crankset!!!!

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 6:34:19 AM UTC-7, Shoji Takahashi wrote:

 A prototype is on the 50cm Cheviot Complete:
 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/wsf106.htm

 
Thanks! If you read the description it states: The crankset (40/26)  hubs 
are really good S!lver prototype stuff which you may or may not be seeing 
on a future project we may or may not do.
 
I don't know who uses a 40/26 - seems awfully small - but if the rings are 
that small, it probablyis one  of those 110bcd for the big ring and a 
smaller 74mm bcd for the inner. I would have thought that since Grant likes 
triples, he would be offering a 110/74 triple?!  Good Luck! 

 It's 5-bolt (non-hidden bolt), looks 110/74 to me, which would go with 
 S!LVER rings. Finish is certainly not final with the prototype. 

 shoji



 On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 9:24:11 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:


  I do believe it was 4-5 years ago that their own crank was coming . .  . 
 . .  lol !  

 It'll be a 110/74 BCD crank though , it's simply the most versatile 
 overall .



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[RBW] Re: Favorite new rumors from the industry, Interbike-ish stuff

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, September 22, 2014 12:37:07 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 My cousin manages a largish shop in Southern California.  My brother in 
 law is close friends with the owner of Jenson USA.  I saw my cousin and my 
 brother in law this weekend, and got two juicy rumors from Interbike.  

 1.  Paul is making Disc brake calipers, called the Klamper.

 
Saw some criticizm of them already:
 
Too small. Not enough heat absorption/dissipation. Well, that is unless 
they are designed to continue to work when they are red hot.
 
Also, compared to Avid bb7(?) with critcizm of those disc: 
The most common overheating issue with BB7 brakes is that the plastic 
adjusting knobs melt.

Being a mechanism with close fitting moving parts, differing rates of 
thermal expansion have to be considered in the design of a mechanical 
caliper. If not designed properly, the mechanism could jam when overheated. 
The BB7 probably benefits from the ball bearing mechanism, which is 
probably tolerant of some mis-match in thermal expansion. I hope the 
designers of the *Paul* brake have also accounted for this. 
 
Yeah CTE mismatch is usually a major problem with a mechanical assembly 
that involves heat. Ideally, all the components in an assembly are made of 
a similar material to minimize various thermal expansion rates. You will 
have stress build up on an assembly just sitting around by heating and 
cooling it let alone having it functioning. With that said, thermal 
expansion and heat sinking are two different things and must be addressed 
separately. 
 
Moreover, being Paul, you know its going to be pricey!  Nevertheless, 
people like Paul and they'll probably sell all the make! Good Luck!
 

 2.  Phil Wood showed a 13 speed cassette hub.  

 I don't know if the hub thing is a joke, like Sheldons ultra microdrive 
 thing.  I'm curious about disc brakes, but have never felt the need to have 
 them.  Paul getting in the game is interesting.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Rise of the Halo Bicycle

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, August 22, 2014 1:17:08 PM UTC-7, shawn m. wrote:

 Even the regular EVT dishing tool is pretty spendy, and also a joy to use 
 (have used, don't own either!). While this is certainly an expensive tool, 
 it's not really forehead-slapping, beyond the pale stuff. Professional 
 tools are just plain pricey to begin with!

 
If you want something from EVT and have a Silca pump, check out their 
urethane washer. I believe it is the same one that the new Silca is now 
selling for $9:
 
http://www.efficientvelo.com/product/urethane-pump-washer/
 
I bought a few and just waiting for my old rubber washer to wear out! Good 
Luck! 
 


 On Friday, August 22, 2014 11:52:47 AM UTC-7, Christopher Chen wrote:

 And then there's this:

 http://www.efficientvelo.com/product/trigger-wheel-dishing-tool/

 Hey you always wanted a dishing tool made from columbus tubing, right?

 It's actually a joy to use (I don't own one), but man


 On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 11:48 AM, KB bicyc...@gmail.com wrote:

 Now it isn't just Halo Bikes. Now there are Halo Pumps! The new 
 Silca Super Pista Ultimate isn't even a pump -- it's an Inflation Tool 
 and sells for $445. Holy Cow!


 http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-ultimate-inflation-tool.html

 Kyle Brooks
 Akron, OH


 On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Goshen Peter uscpet...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 370k for an LFA is a screaming deal. Just dip into your spare money, 
 haha. 


 On Fri, Aug 22, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Steven Frederick stl...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 Yep.  Certainly at least any that wasn't hand made with equal care!


 On Thu, Aug 21, 2014 at 7:28 AM, Steve Palincsar pali...@his.com 
 wrote:



 But the idea that a carbon frame -- anybody's carbon frame -- could 
 be worth twice the price of a Peter Weigle frame is both absurd and 
 obscene.



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 -- 
 I want the kind of six pack you can't drink. -- Micah 



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[RBW] Re: Rise of the Halo Bicycle

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, August 21, 2014 8:54:10 PM UTC-7, Christopher Murray wrote:

 Halo products are not about sales- they are about marketing. The company 
 knows it isn't going to sell very many (if any) of the product to actual 
 consumers. Pros and shop employees will buy it for a HEAVILY discounted 
 price ($0 in some cases). The purpose is to establish the brand as the 
 market leader. 

 A rep for a very high end outdoor gear company laughed when I asked him 
 how many of a specific pack they sold each year. His quote was something 
 like I'd be surprised if we sold any- nobody buys that thing. It was 
 $600. But EVERYBODY knew about it and asked about it when they came into 
 the store.


Bingo! That's exactly right. I think of these high end offerings like a 
Corvette. Very few buy one, but they're in the showroom for people to drool 
over. Then they get over it and buy what they really need!  That happened 
to me! I went in to a Toyota dealer and they had a $370K (on sale!) Lexus 
LFA in the showroom!  Drool, only a few hundred of those made. I looked at 
it and made a few jokes, then went about picking up my PriusI know, 
kind of sad. But the Prius has a hatchback and will transport my bike. 
That's something that $400k Lexus couldn't do! 

I also find it funny that this WSJ article, written in August 2014, doesn't 
mention the latest hot bike from Trek, the $15K Emonda (sp?) with Sram Red! 
At 10.25lb with a 680g frame that supposedly has a 275lb weight limit, it 
is the lightest production bike on the market!  But, with the latest 
lightweight groups like Sram Red, just about every bike mfr has a sub-12lb 
bike.  Heck, put a Sram Red group on a Riv custom and I bet it could get 
down to 16-17lb?  :) Good Luck! 

 Cheers!
 Chris 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Un-racer compact crankset question.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, August 17, 2014 1:12:40 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:

 Actually TA do make a 33t. I think it would be great if RBW would add a 
 110 33t option to the collection of SILVER rings. 


Silver rings are made by Vuelta who also makes rings under a variety of 
other brand names - Salsa, Dimension, Willow, Engagement, etc.  However, 
the 33t is only made by TA. I talked to Vuelta a few years ago and there is 
no demand for a 33t by any mfr, so they're not interested in making one. TA 
is your only source. The best place to get one is Peter White Cycles. Good 
Luck! 


 On Saturday, August 16, 2014 6:41:25 PM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:

 Simple bashtype guard:

 https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chrg.htm

 Also, I've been running the XD2 without the small ring, but I think 
 couldn't get down below a 34T inner ring for the 110 circle.

 - J / cyclofiend.com



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Re: [RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 12:39:54 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 IIRC, my errand custom fixie is ~23 lb without fenders but with rack, dyno 
 lights, cages. The gofast is 17 3/4 lb. The Fargo IIRC is ~30 lb: it may be 
 28 or it may be 31, I forget. Again, all ready to ride with all bolt on 
 parts except fenders but no bags or bottles. 

  
Ha, you guys are a bunch of weight weenies!  :)  On Sunday, both buddy and 
I were riding our carbon bikes climbing out of Sausalito towards the 
bridge. His bike is the latest 2014 Trek Madone with ultegra di2, probably 
weighs about 16 or so pounds. I'm on my tank calfee that weighs in at 
18+lbs. As we were cruising up the first hill out of Sausalito, this guy 
on a Hillborne blows past us. He had massive amounts of tattoos on both is 
legs and arm and had a big Nelson type saddle bag. He was flying up the 
hill pass us and I couldn't see anything else on his bike like whether it 
had a double toptube or not. Needless to say, his bike was probably heavier 
than both our bikes, but that in no way stopped him from flying up the 
hill! 

 And my bars are 3 cm below saddle for the Maes Paralells (shallow drop), 
 perhaps 2 1/2 cm for the Noodles; 2 cm above for the Fargo.


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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Silver Gruppo

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, July 2, 2014 10:03:35 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:

 Been reading about Campagnolo and his history in the new BQ mag.
 Very interesting.
 I think the idea of groupsets is really cool, especially if RBW had a 
 Silver groupset to sell one day.

 I don't think that will ever happen because they seem to like a patchwork 
 of parts for their bikes, *which makes total sense*, so you can build it 
 as functionally as possible with no restrictions to the parts you want for 
 your needs.

 But it would be cool to have everything on the bike matching Silver!

 So far you can patch together a Silver 4-piece group: sidepull brakes, 
 BE/DT shifter levers, chainrings, and a Hupe.

 Top it off with one of those Rivendell Rider Brooks saddles if you can 
 find one!

 
But Campy makes an entire silver colored group! If you're not too uppity 
to *need* Record/Chorus, you can get an entire Veloce 10speed group in 
silver:
 
pic: http://www.velomine.com/images/12veloce1.jpg
 
link: 
http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=86_162_258_260products_id=1694
 
Need 11 speed? No problem, there's an Athena group:
 
http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=86_162_258_259products_id=1369
 
What, you want 11 speed AND triple? Here ya go:
 
http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=86_162_258_259products_id=2155
 
 
http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_infocPath=86_162_258_260products_id=1364
 
Unfortunately, Campy no longer makes silver hubs. Too bad, I have couple of 
pairs of silver Chorus rear hubs and find them to be some of the smoothest 
hubs ever build. Nevertheless, if you need matching silver hubs, White hubs 
are excellent and would match any of the above groups. Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] New Trek 10lb. Road Bike with lifetime warranty.

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, July 1, 2014 6:22:08 PM UTC-7, Liesl wrote:

 The fit was developed for athletes with extraordinary range of pelvic 
 rotation, superior core stability, and the desire to get low and aero.  I 
 can't think of any description that would be more not me.  


That's the description for Trek's race fit. I'm actually surprised that 
this frame is not offered in the more relax H2 fit -  H2 features a 
slightly higher head tube to put less strain on your back and neck. It's 
the right way to get most riders, including many of our Pro Team riders, in 
the right place. With no need for high-rise stems or spacer stacks, the 
look is nothing but pro.

Interestingly, the H2 fit actually gets the bar up nice and high! My 
buddies who have recently bought Madones all have H2 fitting. I'm actually 
surprised Trek doesn't offer this fit for this frame as the price point is 
aimed at those who have money to burn and are more likely to go with the H2 
fit. Good Luck!




 

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Re: [RBW] Overheard at a bike shop

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, June 30, 2014 10:00:05 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:


 I agree Bobby ,

   I'm all for the support of a LBS.  Yet am I based on own prejudices , 
 going to interfere with their business ?   This seems hypocritical .  Yes, 
 saying my bike or riding my-way-is-thee-way is my own pre-judging 
 my-way-is-thee-way as thee-best-way.

 
Agree, a shop is in the business of selling bikes. If it is that narrow 
minded to put on a buyer on the wrong bike, then I doubt that bike shop is 
going to be in business for very long. My LBS has been around since 
1975. The owner is one of the best fitters in the SF Bay Area. But he sells 
all types of bikes. He has the latest carbon Time, Looks, Bianchis and 
Giants. He also sells the new Albion and other steel bikes from 
custom (formerly US distributor for Ron Cooper to Della Santa to the latest 
from the new Masi, Soma and Waterford).  He also has a wall full of 
Colnagos including steel and carbon. 
 
But, the key is to put you on the type of bike that you will ride! If it 
means putting you the latest 14lb carbon wonder bike with your bar dropped 
6 inches below the saddle and 11-23 11speed cassette, done. If you want a 
steel bike with bars higher than your saddle and 13-34 gearing with a 
triple, done!  If you're a fat guy, like me (e.g., 200lb) and want carbon, 
no problem. But he's give you a compact crank (50/34) and low gearing 
(11-28; 12-30)  to help you get up the hill. He will also raise dat bar 
when needed!  Whatever works to get you on the road and enjoying your bike! 
 Good Luck! 


 Is it really ?  Compared to who ?  My choices work for me, if someone 
 wishes to emulate that in some way, great. If not, great .

 Would I like if I had business selling bikes, have customers discouraging 
 potential customers from buying my bikes ? . .  . I think not ! 


 There are many facets to the Golden Rule ! The shop owner qualifies as 
 someone whom I wish well for also , not just a customer I think is being 
 taken advantage of. Vengeance and self-righteousness can be very subtle , 
 like a calm sea masking the tsumani within it. 

 All THAT said . ..  lol .  . .  there is no absolute right or wrong 
 answer, just infinite ways of answering .  This, is Life. 



 On Monday, June 30, 2014 11:42:05 AM UTC-4, Montclair BobbyB wrote:Caveat 
 emptor... I personally wouldn't interfere with a conversation between a 
 bike shop employee and a potential customer, even if I'm cringing (unless 
 explicitly asked for my opinion)... It's entirely the choice of the buyer 
 to seek advice from the bike shop and for the buyer to decide based on 
 whatever he/she feels is right for them (whether right or wrong in my 
 mind). It's not my place to intercede.

 While I gain personal satisfaction knowing I have 'converted' several 
 people's thinking towards the Rivish bikestyle, I try not to impose my 
 beliefs too strongly, I simply demonstrate by example.  Those who scoff at 
 my bike preferences (as being different from their own), well that's 
 entirely their choice, and more power to them.  I have a good friend who 
 rides a beautiful Dario Pegoretti road bike (and only rarely, 
 unfortunately), and every time I show him a new bike I'm working on, the 
 first things he ALWAYS does is lift it and shake his head. (In my mind he 
 just doesn't get it, whereas I'm sure he thinks I'm nuts)... Suum cuique
 ...

 BB




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Re: [RBW] Overheard at a bike shop

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, June 27, 2014 8:54:29 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Unlike you, I did say a word when I stood next to a young man who was at 
 least 6'3 tall (he was taller than my 6'2 brother) to whom the clerk was 
 trying to sell a 56 cm frame. I threw a wrench into the spokes of that sale!

 With modern compact frames, roughly what heights would ride a 56 -- not 
 sure if this means c-c or c-t nowadays.


With modern compact bikes, I believe the key is to look at the top tube 
length, especially if the bikes come in Small, Medium, Large, etc. 
Nevertheless, I think that anyone 6'3 is probably going to need a bike 
bigger than 56cm. 

  


 OTOH, I've noticed many very high bars on carbon fiber road bikes; they 
 look odd what with the short wheelbase and compact frames. The bars are 
 often tilted so that the points of the weirdly long brake/shift levers are 
 pointed upward at a dramatic angle.


In fairness to the large bike mfrs, some do  offer frames with different 
front ends that get the bars high. For example, Trek sells it Trek Madones 
with H1 and H2 fit. H1 is for those who are racers and want low bars. H2 
features 
a slightly higher head tube to put less strain on your back and neck. It's 
the right way to get most riders, including many of our Pro Team riders, in 
the right place. With no need for high-rise stems or spacer stacks, the 
look is nothing but pro. Several of my friends have Trek Madone with H2 
fit  Add in that two of them have the latest di2 e-shifting and well, it 
gets them out there and riding!  Good Luck!



 On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Anne Paulson anne.p...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:

 On my recent Sierra to the Sea tour, I stopped off at a bike shop that 
 catered to the more racey crowd. It appeared to sell only carbon fiber 
 bikes. And I think maybe the employees were not always keeping their 
 customer's actual needs in mind.

 As I was waiting for a riding companion to get his issue dealt with, I 
 listened to a young, fit employee who was apparently selling one of those 
 carbon bikes to an older guy, maybe in his 50s. The customer was a tall 
 fellow with a substantial beer keg of a belly, and judging by the 
 conversation he was a new rider.

 The employee was earnestly telling him that he really needed to use 
 padded bike shorts, and they had to be tight. The employee further 
 explained that the only bike shorts that were truly appropriate were bib 
 shorts, and the bib shorts should be so tight that it would be 
 uncomfortable to stand upright in them, but that would be all right because 
 with the low handlebars and the low riding position, the bibs would work. 
 The bike shop guy's attitude about the bibs was about the same as my and 
 your attitude about, say, carrying a patch kit when riding: they were 
 utterly necessary.

 It was unclear to me how the rider would be able to ride those low 
 handlebars, given his round belly.

 I didn't say a word. 

 -- 
 -- Anne Paulson

 It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride. 

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 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

 *
   * Where you come from is gone, where you thought you were going to 
 never was there, and where you are is no good unless you can get away from 
 it. Where is there a place for you to be? No place.*
 * Nothing outside you can give you any place, he said. You needn't to 
 look at the sky because it's not going to open up and show no place behind 
 it. You needn't to search for any hole in the ground to look through into 
 somewhere else. You can't go neither forwards nor backwards into your 
 daddy's time nor your children's if you have them. In yourself right now is 
 all the place you've got. If there was any Fall, look there, if there was 
 any Redemption, look there, and if you expect any Judgment, look there, 
 because they all three will have to be in your time and your body and where 
 in your time and your body can they be?*
 *  Where in your time and your body has Jesus redeemed you? he cried. 
 Show me where because I don't see the place. If there was a place where 
 Jesus had redeemed you that would be the place for you to be, but which of 
 you can find it?” -- Flannery O'Connor, Wise Blood  *
  

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Re: [RBW] Reynolds 531 hubub?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, June 18, 2014 7:42:44 PM UTC-7, Tim McNamara wrote:


 On Jun 18, 2014, at 5:22 PM, Michael john1...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote: 

  So why is 531 so great? 
  Seems like alotta people really like these frames. 
  Special blend? Or the tube wall thickness? 

 The perfect combination of material and design.  It was for 50 years the 
 standard by which bike tubing was judged (and still is for me).


Completely agree! I also love the 531 decal history:

 http://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/reynolds/Reynolds-transfers.jpg

The newer Reynolds tubing may be lighter, stronger and better, but the 
decals just don't have that same je ne sais quoi

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ce5PLsE4Eiw/Ur-BpGe2hrI/BI0/B4uNPyaDHEE/s1600/Slide1.jpg

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[RBW] Re: IRD super compact double now (nearly) available 94mm BCD

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, June 2, 2014 3:22:18 PM UTC-7, dave campbell wrote:

 Have a link to find these?  I do not see on their website.  Ideally I want 
 to try a 48/32  94mm BCD setup with my 11/32.

Probably the reason nobody has them is because the cranks haven't arrived 
yet.  The only place that seems to have these available as a pre-order is 
Mike Kone's Boulder Bicycles, but he only seems to be offering the 46/30:
 
http://www.renehersestore.com/servlet/the-1305/Pre-dsh-Order--dsh--Assorted-lengths/Detail
 
Too bad the chainrings are not very pretty. I wonder if they will sell it 
as crankarms only? Good Luck! 
 


 On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 2:15:50 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Those of us who like 46/30 will be happy at this:

 IRD is making a new model of their Defiant crankset on the old standard 
 94mm BCD.  It comes with 46/30 rings and is fairly affordable.  

 http://www.renehersestore.com/catalog/IRD%20Compact%2094%20double.JPG


 Boulder is doing a presale for $159.  It's great to have another option.  



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[RBW] Re: It looks like now Rivendell stocks the Soma Grand Randonneur tires

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, May 30, 2014 3:56:07 PM UTC-7, Evan Baird wrote:

 Just for comparison.


 http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/challenge-grifo-xs-33-tubular-cyclocross-tire


Yeah, but there are other sources that you can get that tire alot cheaper:

 
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-track-bike/tyres-cross-folding-challenge-open-chicane-xs-33-cross-tyre/chaltyrf309

Good Luck!



 On Friday, May 30, 2014 3:54:11 PM UTC-7, Evan Baird wrote:

 Hoping to make a 66tpi version at some point and bring the price down. 
 Still, you don't get a 300g tire without some special sauce.

 On Thursday, May 29, 2014 12:03:25 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 EXTRA STOUT http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/t106-10140.htm

 svelte and s-word http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/t106-10141.htm

 I need to wear out some tires so I can try some of these out.  Since 
 they are Somas, it means your local bike shop can sell them to you as 
 well.  



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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 1:50:38 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:



In hindsight , I am quite thankful now that I got one of the last 531 
 ST tube sets when I had my Franklin frame built in 1999.   The ST sets 
 stood for super tourist, basically slightly heavier gauge tubes .  Mine 
 is sport touring geometry as it was called back then, which is similar to 
 many Riv's these days except the BB isn't as low, which makes no difference 
 to me as it handles and feels wonderfully (At both high and super slow 
 speeds)  .I also specified 18 chain stays and a long top , 62cm. top 
 tube , head tube extension, and a 135mm rear .  Love this bike !!

 I has a Gitane racing bike in the 80's that used 531C , and it was sweet 
 too, but it got damaged in a crash .   It was too small for me for anyways 
 . . .   Always love classic Reynolds Tubes . 

 Everyone should love this link :
 http://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/reynolds/constructorstubeguide.htm
 http://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/

 
Thanks! I forgot about that site. Actually, the link I always liked is this 
one:
 
 http://www.equusbicycle.com/bike/reynolds/Reynolds-transfers.jpg
 
I have an old Mercian with Reynolds 531cs tubing. It was a great riding 
bike until it got damaged in a crash. Still have it with a bent down and 
top tube and maybe one day I'll get it fixedGood Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Square taper spindle bolt torque

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 27, 2014 10:59:23 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 Grease. Didn't Jan just discuss this in typically thorough fashion 
 somewhere? Per him, the grease is needed for a good fit.

 Also  I've read --Jobst? -- that you torque it properly, with grease, and 
 leave it alone forever (unless you need to remove it, of course) since 
 repeated tightening will enlarge the hole and ruin it.

 
There's a FAQ:
 
 http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html
 
Good Luck! 


 Patrick Moore
 iPhone

 On May 27, 2014, at 10:33 AM, 'hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: wrote:

 My Sugino non-drive side crank arm came loose also.  I've had to re-torque 
 it several times since (approx. 5,000 miles) and will need to replace it 
 when I run out of spindle real estate (i.e. soon).  Here's a question for 
 the group:  When you install a crank arm do you put a little grease on the 
 bottom bracket spindle or do you install it dry?  I used grease.  I was 
 taught a long time ago to use a small amount of grease to prevent 
 creaking.  I've never had a problem before, but am wondering if this may be 
 the reason it  came loose.

 Matt

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 12:11:34 AM UTC-7, Scot Brooks wrote:

 I ride a LOT of classic steel, some good, some boring, some incredible. At 
 my shop, fixing up classic steel frames while retaining their flavor is our 
 entire business model. My Sam feels good but not at the level of some bikes 
 that roll through our shop; an old Atala, a dumpster find Windsor, a 
 Medici. Not to say they were made by people who care about what they do 
 more than the people who made my Sam but they FELT incredible. Better in 
 fact. Love my Sam but, man, the past had some nice stuff.


This is good info from someone in the know! Question, have you tried any of 
today's frames with the really lightweight tubing like True Temper S3, 
Reynolds 953 or the Columbus or Dedacci(sp?) equivalent?  Thanks! 

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[RBW] Re: Your pre-80's steel vs. today's steel bikes.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, May 25, 2014 8:04:22 AM UTC-7, ascpgh wrote:

 A friend was just telling me about some conversations he was having at the 
 Cirque du Cyclism the other weekend that ran along the same lines. 

 He's had a Della Santa frame that he has held as precious for years and 
 finally got it all together only to find it just not right. He went to a 
 fitting and discovered that it has too long a top tube in its basic 
 geometry that apparently moves him beyond the envelope of the original 
 design expectation when he tried to adjust by stem extension or seat 
 position/seat post options.

Is this the builder's fault? It sounds like your friend bought a bike that 
was too big for him. Who fitted him initially? Unless your friend's fit 
changed over those years he had the frame but didn't built up, the fitter 
should have known that the top tube and basic geometry, whatever that 
means, was right for him!
 

 What seems to be the thread common to Mertz, DiNucci and some of the other 
 old builders present was workmanship presumed of all frames. The attention 
 to detail let on that whoever filed a lug cared deeply, perhaps beyond the 
 quantification of monetary value  of their obsessive expense of time on 
 such. Today we are able to crunch numbers so easily, to enumerate the 
 exchange necessary for costs that we've moved beyond the intrinsic value of 
 craftsmanship to heel to the MBAs and finance departments who seek parody 
 of gain for expenses quantifiable. So perhaps today it is business modeling 
 that limits the obsession able to be administered to make even a well 
 designed steel frame still seem less special than one from the '60s or 
 '70s, back when everything took more time and that spendthrift filing lugs 
 may have been well spent while waiting for the phone to ring or the mail to 
 arrive.

I'm confused by who you are talking about?! Yes, some mfrs build bikes that 
are designed to be mass-marketed and are not as finely tuned as frames 
from years back. But today's custom frame builders are putting out some of 
the best designed and made frames. Go look at frames by any custom builder 
like Bruce Gordon, Roland Della Santa, Brent Steelman, Mark Nobilette, 
Sasha White/Vanilla, Richard Sachs to name a few  and you will see frames 
are that equal to or many cases better than those made in the 60s and 70s!
 

 My friend saw a very early Tom Ritchey that was made for one of those 
 builder's wife which he said was breathtaking in such details.

Yes, if you're lucky enough to get a frame actually build by Tom, it will 
be well done. But that shouldn't be compared to any of his production 
frames made in Taiwan/China. Different markets, different price range and 
different qualities! Good Luck! 

 Andy Cheatham
 Pittsburgh



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[RBW] Re: 650b knobby coming soon.

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 20, 2014 1:06:22 PM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:

 Here's the details.

 http://somafab.blogspot.com/2014/05/the-other-cazadero-tire.html?m=1

 
Interesting, and here I thought there were plenty of 27.5 knobby tires on 
the market 


 ~Hugh


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Re: [RBW] re: tires - I could be imagining things, but...I am thinking Cypres is good

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 12, 2014 10:37:43 AM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:

 Grand Bois changed their tire design significantly based on our tire 
 tests. At first, they used a casing that was similar to the Rolly-Poly/Jack 
 Brown/Maxy-Fasty. After our tests, they went back to the drawing board and 
 improved the design. The latest step in that direction are the Extra Léger 
 tires.

 The wire-bead version was the original version. History has shown that 
 they could be – and have been – improved.

 Disclosure: It's probably well-known by now that Bicycle Quarterly's 
 sister company, Compass Bicycles Ltd., imports Grand Bois tires...

 
Jan,
 
Are you planning on coming out with a tubular tire? I ask because several 
of my friends are into these new lightweight carbon tubular wheelsets 
(e.g., 1100 tp 1200 grams for the wheelset) and a set of super fast tires 
based on your finding might make them even faster! And, let's face it, who 
doesn't like light, fast wheels?! :)  Let us know. Thanks! 
 
 


 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/

 On Monday, May 12, 2014 9:16:54 AM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:

 I have been running Cypres on my Riv Road for a few years and like them a 
 lot. The kevlar bead ones. There was also a steel bead at one time that I 
 tried and did not like.



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Re: [RBW] re: tires - I could be imagining things, but...I am thinking Cypres is good

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 12, 2014 11:22:09 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 05/12/2014 02:16 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
  

 On Monday, May 12, 2014 10:37:43 AM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote: 

 Grand Bois changed their tire design significantly based on our tire 
 tests. At first, they used a casing that was similar to the Rolly-Poly/Jack 
 Brown/Maxy-Fasty. After our tests, they went back to the drawing board and 
 improved the design. The latest step in that direction are the Extra Léger 
 tires.

 The wire-bead version was the original version. History has shown that 
 they could be – and have been – improved.

 Disclosure: It's probably well-known by now that Bicycle Quarterly's 
 sister company, Compass Bicycles Ltd., imports Grand Bois tires...
  
  
 Jan,
  
 Are you planning on coming out with a tubular tire? I ask because several 
 of my friends are into these new lightweight carbon tubular wheelsets 
 (e.g., 1100 tp 1200 grams for the wheelset) and a set of super fast tires 
 based on your finding might make them even faster! And, let's face it, who 
 doesn't like light, fast wheels?! :)  Let us know. Thanks!
  

 How could Compass improve upon the FMB?

 
Good question! However, Jan makes his GB tires sounds so much faster 
than any clincher out there that I'm thinking he could work his magic on 
tubulars too! May be another question is whether FMB makes a clincher tire 
and if so, how does it compare to the GB?! Good Luck!  

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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the advantage of expensive hubs?

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, May 9, 2014 1:43:05 PM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Forgive the minor thread hijack, but actually I'd love to hear some more 
 opinions on XT vs LX hubs. I couldn't work out which are 'better' because 
 there are (of course) different criteria for different purposes. For my 
 purposes, weight is completely irrelevant. I want the better sealed, more 
 durable hub that will be able to take my considerable weight when ridden 
 off-road. Does anyone know if one is better than the other in this case?


 Alex Wetmore warned of the problems with the XT (M770) hubs that have 
aluminum axles:
 

There is one major problem with the LHT wheels. *They are using the
FH-M770 rear hub, which has smaller bearings (3/16) than standard
Shimano rear hubs (1/4) and uses aluminum axles with easy to strip
threads.

I knew about the smaller bearings, but just learned about the aluminum
axle this weekend with a friend visited with a broken one. *When he
took it apart in my shop he discovered that the end cap had stripped
the threads in the axle. *I took a photo which you can find here:

http://alexandchristine.smugmug.com/Bicycles/Shimano-XT-Aluminum-Axle/10997988_eTAGA#768940509_7GQHt

The axle in the rear is a standard 10mm steel Shimano hub axle. *You
can see that the thread pitch and the height of the threads is the
same on each.  He had not adjusted the bearings from the Shimano
factory before having this failure. *I personally think that this is a
silly place to save weight on a touring bike and would recommend LX
hubs over XT ones for touring and commuting wheelsets. *Since the end
cap is also used to preload the bearings it will not be fully threaded
onto the axle. *In this case it looks like it was being held on with only 
two or three
threads.  I was disappointed to see this development.

*XT has almost always been light in smart ways, so that it ends up a
little lighter than LX without giving up any durability. *Now it looks
like LX is the durable group and My heavy duty city/tour wheelset is
built on plain Deores. The bearing feel is phenomenal compared to even
five years ago. The seals are magnificent. They just need a little
touch of the cone wrench out of the box.

On the other hand, there are several shop owners out there, who see alot 
more XT hubs than Alex or myself and will swear that the XT hub is 
reliable. Do you homework and decide. Good Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: What is the advantage of expensive hubs?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 5, 2014 9:05:58 AM UTC-7, eflayer wrote:

 the law of diminishing returns does set in at some point:
  
 The law of diminishing returns is a classic economic concept that states 
 that as more investment in an area is made, overall return on that 
 investment increases at a declining rate, assuming that all variables 
 remain fixed. To continue to make an investment after a certain point 
 (which varies from context to context) is to receive a decreasing return on 
 that input.
  
 You might consider moving up a notch, but not all the way to bling. Maybe 
 cartridge bearings and lower weight would be fun to play with, and...

 
I don't know, for the biggest bang for the buck, it is hard to beat 
Shimano. Yes, they have loose ball bearings that require periodic 
maintenance and Shimano hubs are not the lightest. But for durability and 
quietness, nothing beats them.  I usually get Dura Ace or Ultegra hubs, but 
that is because I *think* their cups and cones and better polished and 
should last longer. Further, if you buy from one of the UK retailers, 
DA/ultegra hubs are substantially cheaper than most of the boutiques like 
King,Phi, White, DT, etc. Good Luck! 

  
 The bikehubstore.com seems to have a fine reputation for selling good 
 stuff and providing good service. All that said, if you don't care about 
 weight and mostly about utility, then I think you won't experience any 
 level of disappointment with nearly anything from Shimanoand they are 
 famous for not making that aggravating pawl click noise found in even the 
 most expensive.
  
 http://www.bikehubstore.com/category-s/144.htm

 

 On Monday, May 5, 2014 8:14:15 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Pricing out parts for my build, the cost difference in hubs between the 
 bling hubs and say Shimano hubs are pretty noticable.  A Chris King, Phil 
 Wood, et. al, are quite expensive, $350ish in the case of the Chris King, 
 $400+ in the case of the Phil.

 On the other hand, I found Tiagra 4600 rear hubs for as little as $24.45 
 online, and 105 5700 rear hubs for $43.45.  Now we all know that Shimano 
 hubs are loose ball bearing hubs, but in practice what is the functional 
 deficiency if the bearing preload is properly adjusted?  Some people seem 
 to think the 105 hub is better sealed than the Tiagra and if so would be 
 worth $19 to me.  But if not...?  Rivendell sells 105 5500 hubs on their 
 site, so they must not be that bad.

 To give some more background, I have a Chris King hub on a frame I was 
 planning on selling.  The plan was to re-use the CK hub on my new build. 
  Different wheel size, so I would need to start over with new rims and 
 spokes either way.  But if I could sell the CK for $200 or more, and 
 replace it with say a 105 or even a Deore hub, that would help me get my 
 build together faster.  The new frame is spaced 132.5 so can take 130 or 
 135.

 I also don't love the fact that the CK hub needs to be taken apart and 
 re-lubed yearly.  I had an issue before with the lube drying out and 
 causing the hub to be sticky on transition from pedaling to coasting when 
 my service interval was too long.  That being said, the polished silver CK 
 is a bit more aesthetically pleasing than the dull silver Shimano hubs.

 My main criteria is that the hub is sealed well against water intrusion 
 and rolls down the road easily.  Low maintenance is a plus.  A difference 
 in weight of 100 grams is not meaningful to me.  Bling is nice, but my 
 priority is function over form.  It does need to be silver, of course.

 Replacing the CK with a mid-priced cartridge bearing hub might be another 
 option.  The Velo Orange hubs look pretty nice.  I'm guessing they would 
 probably would require less maintenance than the CK hubs and if the 
 cartridge bearings are of good quality they would probably be well sealed.

 -Jim

 -- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: What is the advantage of expensive hubs?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, May 5, 2014 3:16:36 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I do have some Campy rear hubs sitting around but I have made the decision 
 not to use Campy stuff if I can avoid it because Campy parts are expensive. 
  I can buy two or three Shimano cassettes for the cost of a Campy cassette, 
 for example.  

 
I agree that if you buy Campy cassettes, they can be very expensive, 
especially anything with ti cogs!  However, since cassettes are 
consumables, I don't need anything ti and I found that Centaur/Veloce level 
cassettes ordered thru the UK dealers to not be too bad. For example, I 
still run 9 speed and a Campy Veloce 9 spd 13-28 cassette is about $49. In 
contrast, they also sell an off-brand called BBB and its 9 speed 12-27 
cassette sells for $36. Not too bad.
 

 There's also the fact that Campy 9/10/11 hubs have more offset and build a 
 weaker wheel.  Not good for a 270 lb rider. 

 
The offset doesn't build that weak a wheel, but I agree that if you're 
270lb, it is best not to chance it! 


 Of course, if someone made a Shimano freehub body that fit on a Campy hub, 
 it might be a consideration...I have a brand new early 2000s Chorus hub 
 just sitting in my parts bin.  Also have a used Record hub of about the 
 same vintage, the rim it was laced to got too out of whack to ride anymore.

 
I would be interested in either hub if you want to sell! Email me off-list 
if you do. Thanks!  



 On Mon, May 5, 2014 at 4:07 PM, Philip Williamson 
 philip.w...@gmail.comjavascript:
  wrote:

 Engagement is the only issue I find between Shimano hubs and boutique 
 hubs, but my experience of cassette hubs is pretty limited, due to a 
 long-lasting fixed gear obsession. 

 My Bontrager/King hubs have only been serviced once, about 10 years ago, 
 but the ring drive engagement is a real joy compared to the Shimano Deore 
 hub that I've put a lot of miles on. I don't consider the Deore hub to be a 
 mountain bike hub at all, and I'm not considering Shimano hubs for my 
 'dream' wheelset for the New Gravel Roadster. I want White, King, or Hope 
 hubs for that, a choice that comes down to have a connection to vs have 
 the money for. 

 But... I just bought a $75 CL wheelset with Concept hubs, so expedience 
 wins. 

 Philip
 www.biketinker.com

 On Monday, May 5, 2014 8:14:15 AM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 Pricing out parts for my build, the cost difference in hubs between the 
 bling hubs and say Shimano hubs are pretty noticable.  A Chris King, Phil 
 Wood, et. al, are quite expensive, $350ish in the case of the Chris King, 
 $400+ in the case of the Phil.

 On the other hand, I found Tiagra 4600 rear hubs for as little as $24.45 
 online, and 105 5700 rear hubs for $43.45.  Now we all know that Shimano 
 hubs are loose ball bearing hubs, but in practice what is the functional 
 deficiency if the bearing preload is properly adjusted?  Some people seem 
 to think the 105 hub is better sealed than the Tiagra and if so would be 
 worth $19 to me.  But if not...?  Rivendell sells 105 5500 hubs on their 
 site, so they must not be that bad.

 To give some more background, I have a Chris King hub on a frame I was 
 planning on selling.  The plan was to re-use the CK hub on my new build. 
  Different wheel size, so I would need to start over with new rims and 
 spokes either way.  But if I could sell the CK for $200 or more, and 
 replace it with say a 105 or even a Deore hub, that would help me get my 
 build together faster.  The new frame is spaced 132.5 so can take 130 or 
 135.

 I also don't love the fact that the CK hub needs to be taken apart and 
 re-lubed yearly.  I had an issue before with the lube drying out and 
 causing the hub to be sticky on transition from pedaling to coasting when 
 my service interval was too long.  That being said, the polished silver CK 
 is a bit more aesthetically pleasing than the dull silver Shimano hubs.

 My main criteria is that the hub is sealed well against water intrusion 
 and rolls down the road easily.  Low maintenance is a plus.  A difference 
 in weight of 100 grams is not meaningful to me.  Bling is nice, but my 
 priority is function over form.  It does need to be silver, of course.

 Replacing the CK with a mid-priced cartridge bearing hub might be 
 another option.  The Velo Orange hubs look pretty nice.  I'm guessing they 
 would probably would require less maintenance than the CK hubs and if the 
 cartridge bearings are of good quality they would probably be well sealed.

 -Jim

 -- 
 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, April 24, 2014 7:08:43 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:

  Yeah, if we are talking custom, e.g., custom geometry, then that 
 really changes things as most CF frames coming out of Taiwan or elsewhere 
 are pretty much stock production sizes.  For custom
  carbon, you're looking at a handful of very expensive builders - Calfee, 
 Parlee and Crumpton top the list. However, their custom frames start at 
 about $3500 (Calfee tetra-custom) and go way up. 

 In this case my reference to custom and carbon is that there are few (and 
 in fact I have never seen one) off the shelf road CF frames that 
 accommodate much over a 25 tire.  It is almost necessary to go custom if 
 you want a road CF with the new smooth rolling wide tires.

 
I think the limiting factor isn't the frame, but the fork! For example, if 
you look at the latest Trek Madones, they can fit basically anything as 
there isn't a brake bridge:
 
 http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/TrekBicycleProducts/91948?
 
The hardest part is finding a carbon fork that will have clearance for 
anything wider than 25mm. When I was looking for a 1 fork, I found that 
Columbus is the only mfr that still makes a carbon fork in this size that 
offers a carbon steerer tube. Luckily, it has enough clearance to fit my 
700x25 Michelin tires AND Crud fenders. It is tight, but fits. 
 
There may be a few carbon forks out there that can fit 25mm tires or wider, 
but you will need to look for it. 


 As I say above, I paid $3.3k for my lugged steel Spectrum frame and fork, 
 built by Tom Kellogg and Jeff Duser, two of the most respected custom bike 
 people out there.  

 
Yes, Spectrum frameset is very nice! Tom Kellogg and Jeff Duser 
are definitely on the list of top tier builders!   


 Along with the CF builders you mention, Argonaut is also doing amazing 
 work.  For whatever reason though, CF customs are very pricey.  

 
Not familar wtih Argonaut, but the ones I mentioned are all US builders who 
charge more. It is also supply and demand, I'm not aware of any Taiwanese 
CF builders who offer frames with custom geometry.  Therefore, no 
competition. Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 12:21:49 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 They didn't publish the frame weight in BQ.  Calfees site has a page for 
 the adventure series, and says the complete bike pictured weighs 16.5lb 
 without fenders, and would retail for ~$6300 complete (SRAM Force).  It is 
 pictured without pedals.  

 I assume we could spec that Roadeo with the same parts, and we'd probably 
 be 2 to 3 pounds heavier and about $1500-$2000 less expensive?  Somewhere 
 in there.  

 
This is correct! Riv list a 55cm Roadeo with I believe Sram Force at 18lbs 
w/o pedals or saddle:

 

Built up with Mark's choice of lightish clubby parts, his 55cm weighs 
(minus saddle and pedals) 18 pounds.

link: http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-roadeo.htm

Further, Riv doesn't specify parts, but they do say: we're able to price 
the Roadeo at $4,200 (or so), several hundred to several thousand dollars 
less than similarly equipped MCRBs. Assuming again that is for a Sram Force 
group, the Roadeo bike will weigh about 2lbs more but cost $2100 less than 
a similarly equipped Calfee! 

However, the new carbon frames coming out of Taiwan are even lighter and in 
some cases cheaper!  One friend recently bought new Taiwanese-made bike 
with Sram Red and it cost him a little over $5000, the bike weighs 15lbs. 
I've seen last year's C'dale Evo with Sram Red sell for about $3300!  
That bike weighed in at a little over 15lbs, but when a few friends test 
road it, they said that bike was very, very stiff to the point of being 
uncomfortable!  Looking at that bike, I could see that it had 700x23 tires, 
probably pumped up to 120psi, and it would be very difficult to get a 25 in 
there. I'll passGood Luck! 


 If both bikes had the same tires, I bet they'd both be awesome.  

 On Tuesday, April 22, 2014 12:12:08 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

 For that matter, does anyone recall the frame + fork weight (bare frame 
 and fork) of that Calfee randoneur reveiwed in BQ?


 On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 1:10 PM, Patrick Moore bert...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you were to build the same, sport-touring frame and fork (we can take 
 the Roadeo as a well known to all example of the design I mean) with 
 similar clearances, similar braze-ons, and with similar long-term 
 durability, out of top quality steel and out of carbon fiber, how much 
 weight would you save with the carbon fiber?

 I'm not concerned in this discussion with the catastrophic fail rate of 
 CF versus steel; I'm interested in a CF frameset that under the same normal 
 use as the Roadeo would last as long as the Roadeo.

 Nor am I concerned about building into the steel frameset any extra 
 measure of safety; just your typical top quality steel sport-tourer type of 
 frame.

 That is to say: no stupid light gauge or design on either frameset, nor 
 any scrupulous over building. I know that you can buy a CF racing frame 
 that weighs less than 2 lb in a small size, but I want to compare a carbon 
 fiber frame and fork that are as durable and have as much clearance as 
 their steel counterparts.

 Use whatever strength-to-weight tweaking tricks you can; just have the 
 CF frameset be as long-term-reliable as the steel one made from top quality 
 tubing. Again, how much weight difference?

 So much of our discussions about CF versus steel seem to be comparing 
 apples to kumkwats.
  



 -- 
 Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, and letters that get interviews.
 By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
 Other professional writing services.
 http://www.resumespecialties.com/
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, Nouvelle Mexique, Etats Unis

  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, April 23, 2014 9:53:18 AM UTC-7, Matthew J wrote:

  That bike weighed in at a little over 15lbs, but when a few friends test 
 road it, they said that bike was very, very stiff to the point of being 
 uncomfortable!  Looking at that bike, I could see that it had 700x23 tires, 
 probably pumped up to 120psi, and it would be very difficult to get a 25 
 in there. I'll passGood Luck!

 It is not that it cannot be done off the shelf, but it seems that if you 
 want a CF frame that takes wider tires you have to go custom.  And for 
 whatever reason, custom CF run a lot more than similar custom steel from 
 very respectable builders.

 This, to me anyway, seems a significant difference between CF and steel as 
 material for bikes.

 
Yeah, if we are talking custom, e.g., custom geometry, then that 
really changes things as most CF frames coming out of Taiwan or elsewhere 
are pretty much stock production sizes.  For custom carbon, you're looking 
at a handful of very expensive builders - Calfee, Parlee and Crumpton top 
the list. However, their custom frames start at about $3500 (Calfee 
tetra-custom) and go way up.
 
In contrast, custom steel frames can  be expensive depending on the 
builder. If you're looking top tier like a Richard Sachs or Sasha 
White/Vanilla, both of whom have like 5+ year wait list, expect to pay 
$4000+ for a frameset (frame and fork), Bruce Gordon is in that same range 
and I think Brent Steelman is the highest with a starting price of 
something like $5500!  Even Riv customs are $3500.  Of course, there are 
builders who are cheaper like Roland Della Santa and Steve Rex who 
I believe *only* charges between $2000-2500.  
 
Lots of good stuff out there, it all depends on what you want! Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, April 23, 2014 11:09:05 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Looking at that bike, I could see that it had 700x23 tires, probably 
 pumped up to 120psi, and it would be very difficult to get a 25 in there. 
 I'll passGood Luck!

 Exactly correct!  It is impressive to see a 15lb bike when it's on the 
 scale, but some of us actually like to ride.  Furthermore some of us like 
 to ride fast.  A 15lb bike that forces you into slower, less comfortable 
 tires is not appealing.  That's the only reason I was comparing the 
 Adventure Calfee to the Roadeo.  When there's bargain carbon frameset that 
 takes 30mm tires or wider, that will be interesting.  

 
It is already here and more are coming! They're called cross bikes!  The 
big 3 all have cross bikes with carbon frames, disc brakes, mechanical or 
electronic shifting and 30mm+ tires! With everything going to 11 speed, the 
10 speed versions are all being discounted! My buddy recently bought a 
slightly used (read: floor model) C'dale cross with Sram Red and 
mechanical disc brakes! Regular price is like $6000, he paid like $2700!  
Good Luck!   

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Re: [RBW] Re: Starting to wonder if all this frame stuff really matters.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, April 20, 2014 7:40:19 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:

  
 I personally sneer, and do so with great glee and spite, at stupid light 
 racing frames sold to fat middle aged men who buy them because they want to 
 pretend they are pro racers, or because they are too ignorant to know 
 better, or because they want to show off how expensive a bike they can buy. 
 (Well, I try not to be spiteful toward ignorance.) 

 
Well, I guess you would be sneering at me! Yes, I'm a fat, overweight 
middle aged guy who has a carbon bike! I love it! Now I don't profess to be 
a racer, I try not to be ignorant and definitely don't have enough 
money to show off. But, one reason alot of people get carbon *racing* bikes 
is pyschological. I know everyone here says that doesn't matter and are 
happy to ride their 20+ lb bike up that big hill. 
 
But, for the majority of my friends, getting carbon is the way to get up 
that big hill faster! Yes, we all know it is still the engine. 
Nevertheless, IF my friends *think* that riding a 15-17lb bike is going to 
get them up the hill faster, guess what, it will! 
 
If you look at the latest carbon wonder bikes coming out of Taiwan, they 
are light and so far appear durable! I have an older Calfee (bought used in 
97 and have been riding it ever since) with 9 speed Campy and it weighs in 
at a whopping 18lbs!  In comparison, several of my buddies have bought the 
latest carbon from Taiwan - Willier (15lbs with Sram Red), one guy with a 
Time (OK, its made in France) with Sram Red that weighs about 16lb and 
couple of Trek Madones with Ultegra di2 that weigh in at about 16lbs. Their 
owners are riding faster than ever. In fact, my one friend, who just 
purchased the Trek with di2, is new to riding, has lost 15lbs and is 
climbing like a monster! He says its the bike. We all know its the 15lb 
weight loss. Nevertheless, it motivated him and isn't what really matters?  
 
So, if carbon gets people on bikes and out and riding, what's the 
problems?! Good Luck! 
 
 

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[RBW] Re: Handlebar Dilemma Solved

[Brewster Fong]

On Saturday, April 19, 2014 6:39:31 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:


 https://www.flickr.com/photos/rick_bergstrom/13932180295/in/pool-bicycleasart
 Grin.

 Ha, Calfee did that back in 2006:

http://www.bikingbis.com/_photos/calfee1.sized.jpg

He also did another version with what appears to be cowhorn fork:

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/sonomapinot/2265879481/

With abandon,
 Patrick

 *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org http://www.MindYourHeadCoop.org*
 *www.OurHolyConception.org http://www.OurHolyConception.org*
  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Latest in Fenders!

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, March 30, 2014 4:08:38 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:

 75g is light  - the Zefal stainless water bottle cage weighs that much


Hey, the Crud mk2 full fenders on my bike are listed as 205g for the 
pair! Thus, for one fender, is 104g or about 29g heavier  than this thing. 
But my Cruds cover the entire wheel and actually works pretty good. I'll 
take my Crud fenders any day over this contraption. Good Luck! 


 On Saturday, March 29, 2014 2:00:10 PM UTC-5, Brewster Fong wrote:



 On Saturday, March 29, 2014 11:07:04 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 If I am reading correctly you only get the arm for 80,then you have to 
 attach your own fender.

 The ad states: *The carbon fiber strut and ABS plastic fender blade*make 
 for a total fender weight of just 75 grams with hardware. Fenders are 
 sold individually.  (emphasis added).

 For $80 you get one carbon fiber strut AND ABS plastic fender blade with 
 hardware. Each fender is sold separately! Hey, the total weight is only 
 75gs, so you know that's the biggest selling point! Good Luck! 


  

  On Mar 29, 2014 12:13 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com wrote:

 cool idea, great for skunk stripe, but there's more to fenders than 
 skunk stripe.  

 On Saturday, March 29, 2014 10:49:15 AM UTC-5, Brewster Fong wrote:

 Like someone said on another board, charge enough and you can get 
 cyclists to buy just about anything...

 Check out this fender for $80!

 http://mikesbikes.com/m/product/bikesmart-tangent-sl-8900.htm

 Better yet, watch the video of how it worksmake sure you look for 
 the droplets.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=DcwE967IOGo

 I expect Riv to stock these next weekGood Luck!

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[RBW] Latest in Fenders!

[Brewster Fong]

Like someone said on another board, charge enough and you can get cyclists 
to buy just about anything...

Check out this fender for $80!

http://mikesbikes.com/m/product/bikesmart-tangent-sl-8900.htm

Better yet, watch the video of how it worksmake sure you look for the 
droplets.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=DcwE967IOGo

I expect Riv to stock these next weekGood Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Latest in Fenders!

[Brewster Fong]

On Saturday, March 29, 2014 11:07:04 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:

 If I am reading correctly you only get the arm for 80,then you have to 
 attach your own fender.

The ad states: *The carbon fiber strut and ABS plastic fender blade* make 
for a total fender weight of just 75 grams with hardware. Fenders are sold 
individually.  (emphasis added).

For $80 you get one carbon fiber strut AND ABS plastic fender blade with 
hardware. Each fender is sold separately! Hey, the total weight is only 
75gs, so you know that's the biggest selling point! Good Luck! 


 

  On Mar 29, 2014 12:13 PM, Ron Mc bulld...@gmail.com javascript: 
 wrote:

 cool idea, great for skunk stripe, but there's more to fenders than skunk 
 stripe.  

 On Saturday, March 29, 2014 10:49:15 AM UTC-5, Brewster Fong wrote:

 Like someone said on another board, charge enough and you can get 
 cyclists to buy just about anything...

 Check out this fender for $80!

 http://mikesbikes.com/m/product/bikesmart-tangent-sl-8900.htm

 Better yet, watch the video of how it worksmake sure you look for 
 the droplets.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=DcwE967IOGo

 I expect Riv to stock these next weekGood Luck!

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[RBW] Re: 1975 Eisentraut A series touring - rivvy build

[Brewster Fong]

Jim,
 
Nice frameset! 

On Thursday, March 27, 2014 2:57:49 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 I have an old Eisentraut that is in fairly good condition that's been 
 hanging on my wall for way too long.  I'd like to build it up in a 
 Rivendell-esque sort of way.  I'd like to use as many of the parts I have 
 hanging around as possible.  

 The frame has been cold set 130 at some point, so I plan to use the 700c 
 wheelset that I took off of my Rivendell, which is Campy Chorus 9 on the 
 back.  I have a 9 speed silver Campy Record double crankset that would look 
 real nice on it, 53/39 is definitely non-ideal, but it's just for now 
 anyway.  I've got some vintage brakes and levers, as well as some Campy 
 bar-end shifters.

 
So are you running this as friction or are the bar-ends indexed for 9 
speed? Either way, you shouldn't have any shifting problems!  


 But I also have many questions.

 Did this bike originally come with 27 or 700c?  That will help with 
 trying to figure out what kind of brakes I will need with the 700c.  If 
 it's a conversion from 27 I would assume that the nutted Tektro 559 would 
 probably be necessary, or some sort of centerpull with long reach.  If it 
 was 700c originally then I could probably use the retro Campy brakes that I 
 have lying around.

 
As others have stated, put in a 700c and see if it fits! Otherwise, long 
reach brakes are available or use a drop-bolt!  


 The headset - it's got some Zeus 2000 headset on it now that feels 
 pretty rough.  Is this something can can be salvaged or that needs to be 
 replaced?  If it needs to be replaced, can it use something modern, or is 
 it going to be some oddball vintage NOS part?  What were the standards in 
 the 70s?

 
Any threaded headset should work. If you want something modern, get 
one with angular cartridge bearings! Way superior to the old ball bearings 
ones like Campy or your Zeus. Shimano, Cane Creek and of course, CK can be 
used!  


 The bottom bracket.  It has one in there, which I have no intention of 
 re-using, but what threads does it have most likely?  And will I need to 
 run a tap on the threads?

 
Should be english thread. If you have a bb cup laying around try it!  Or 
take it down to a bike shop so they can fit it.


 Seatpost - what was most common in the 70s?  I haven't the slightest 
 inkling of what size it takes.  I'd rather not go buy one and have to take 
 it back or send it back.


If you're unsure, take it down to  a bike shop. Most shops will have 
seatpost sizing rods and can give you the exact measurement:
 
http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=4231251825d=singlec=Toolssc=Measuringtc=Seatpost-Sizersitem_id=SN-SR
 
 

 Threaded stem - safe to assume I can use a Tallux that I have sitting 
 around, or not?

 
You should unless its been damaged. 


 Any other thoughts?

 
You may want to consider spraying the innards with Boeing T-9 or framesaver 
to preserve the inside from rusting!  Otherwise, put it together and get it 
out on the road! Enjoy!  


 -Jim

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 Keep the metal side up and the rubber side down! 


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[RBW] Re: IRD super compact double now (nearly) available 94mm BCD

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 2:19:48 PM UTC-7, Mike Schiller wrote:

 I wish that big ring wan't so fat looking.  I'd like to get the 
 crankarms without rings if possible.


Agree, that has to be one of the ugliest designs ever! When I heard IRD was 
coming out with a 94mm bcd crank, I was already to get one. However, after 
seeing this, I am very disappointed. I may end up getting one and replacing 
the big ring, but what a wasteGood Luck!

 


 ~mike




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[RBW] Re: IRD super compact double now (nearly) available 94mm BCD

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, March 20, 2014 3:31:26 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 On Thursday, March 20, 2014 9:18:39 AM UTC-7, Brewster Fong wrote:



 Agree, that has to be one of the ugliest designs ever! When I heard IRD 
 was coming out with a 94mm bcd crank, I was already to get one. However, 
 after seeing this, I am very disappointed. I may end up getting one and 
 replacing the big ring, but what a wasteGood Luck!


 Yeah, the 110BCD version looks like this:

 http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-3773699254952_2268_48769916

 but the 94BCD version looks like this:

 http://www.renehersestore.com/catalog/IRD%20Compact%2094%20double.JPG

 I can see why people might be disappointed.  #eyeroll


 Yup, the big chainring on the 110 bcd is just as ugly as the one on the 
94bcd! ;) 

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[RBW] Re: New Albion on SF CL?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 10:31:25 PM UTC-7, Evan Baird wrote:

 Overall not a bad looking build. I can't get into the mini-v brakes though.

 
Why not? when I had a cross bike with Campy ergo shifter and tried using a 
pair of NOS Suntour XC Pro canti brakes with it the results were 
awful.  Could never get them to work properly. I tried KS salmon pads, and 
adjusted it for what seemed like forever. All I got was brake squeal and/or 
shudder. Terrible.  
 
On advice of a friend, I put on a cheapie Tektro 926al mini-v brake in the 
front  and wham - it was like night and day! The brake stop perfectly with 
no squeal or shudder. And this was with the stock black pads that came with 
the brake. Also, had no problem working with the Campy ergo lever. 
 
Now, some could argue that what I really needed was a fork mounted brake 
cable hanger instead of the one that hanged off the top of the headset. 
That may be true, but at that time I didn't know about this hanger, so the 
mini-v was the solution. At about $20 (or less if you go on the internet), 
it was well worth the cost and far superior to the lousy Suntour canti 
brake. 
 
Of course, YMMVGood Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: Grant's Overseas Trip - What do you want?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, March 13, 2014 4:24:14 PM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:

 I'd like to see the Sugino cranks offered with a black or hard anodizing. 


But Sugino cranks can be found in black! Here's the Alpine 800d in black:

https://www.benscycle.com/p-909-sugino-alpina-800d-crankset.aspx?

Unfortunately, those cranks will only take an Octalink bbGood Luck! 



 

 Next I'd like to see the big front rack with a small tomb stone to 
 accommodate a rando bag. Yes I'm aware of the other version Campee rack 
 with detachable low riders but the top rack isn't as sturdy 
 and detachable parts have a way of being misplaced and I'm lazy and don't 
 want to take them on  off. My 2 cents.

 ~Hugh

 On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 1:53:30 PM UTC-7, Larry H wrote:

 So what cool bike parts does everyone want Grant to bring back from 
 Japan/Taiwan/wherever else he was going?



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[RBW] Re: New Albion on SF CL?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 7:34:56 PM UTC-7, eflayer wrote:

 I think he might do bike builds for people he knows. Not sure if he does 
 this as a favor or he is paid to do it...or both.


Yeah, this guy is on the Paceline (formerly Serotta) forum and lives in SF. 
He's talked about this build and seems to like the frameset. Good Luck! 

  
 Think he built it to check it out, not so much to make it a daily driver. 
 Apparently, it is not destined to be in his collection.
 On Wednesday, March 12, 2014 4:50:59 PM UTC-7, hsmitham wrote:

 Didn't these just come out? And here we have a brand new one up for sale 
 already on SF CL. Like to know the story behind this quick turn around.

 ~Hugh



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[RBW] Re: Brifters on a country bike

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 9:55:48 AM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Haha.  I've always been a huge fan of the build.  As such, some of my 
 favorite memories about road racing history is the nuances and 
 idiosyncrasies of some riders' builds.  Lance's dual levers was only one. 
  Some others, in no particular order:

 1.  Alexi Grewal had a thing for the weird Dura Ace AX crankset.  He 
 stockpiled them and ran them on every bike of his, even long after they 
 went out of production.  He's running them on his Olympic Gold Medal 
 Pinarello.  In addition, he's running a very eclectic mix of parts.  Going 
 just from memory, a Hi-E front hub, Diacompe AGC brakes.  Suntour 
 derailers.  
 2.  Harvey Nitz would modify lots of his own parts in the machine shop. 
  He had a name for his builds.  He called it The Equalizer
 3.  Merckx was maniacally detail oriented.  One little known detail was 
 that he sometimes ran a 13,14,14,15,16 freewheel so he could have perfect 
 chainline with a 14T cog in either the big or small chainring
 4.  Lemond/Hinault's Renault Elf Gitane team was unusual for the mid 
 1980s.  They didn't care a whole bunch about bike weight.  One quote I read 
 stated Greg's time trial bike weighs more than Sean Kellys standard road 
 bike.  They ran much lower tire pressure than other teams.  95psi for most 
 riders.  Many of them also ran super long crankarms.  Greg pushed 180s.  

 
A couple of other interesting memories:
 
5. In 2004/05, Lance used Shimano AX centerpull brakes on his TT bike 
6. While his team used Look pedals, Lance preferred the old 
Shimano/Look  PD-7401 until his last year (2010) when he used the latest 
7801 pedals
 
I always loved it when guys would say, Well Eddy didn't need the latest 
widget to set his records!  Really? Like you said, Eddy Merckx was 
manically detail oriented and always fiddling with his bikes!  If he had 
the latest carbon/wonder bike and equipment we have today, you can be sure 
he would be using it!  
 
Good Luck! 
 


 Please forgive me if I'm not 100% accurate on the above.  This is the way 
 I remember things.  

 Bill revisionist history Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Tuesday, March 11, 2014 3:45:42 AM UTC-7, ascpgh wrote:

 Thanks for the photo Bill, I have told others story about his early 
 preference who've said I was batty. I didn't know if his preference got 
 past the amateur days. His obsessiveness regarding weight may well have 
 overridden the sanity-promoting match-matchy for the hoods and the desire 
 of component sponsors to showcase intact groups.

 Andy Cheatham
 Pittsburgh

 On Monday, March 10, 2014 7:50:11 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:

 Lance on his way to batty, running two different levers.  ;-)

 http://www.vosizneias.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/h_50493197.jpg


 On Monday, March 10, 2014 4:33:10 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:

 I think unmatched levers would drive me batty. The bike I have thats 
 currently dt front / ergo rear is that way now because I broke the front 
 shift paddle and was too cheep to replace it. I just gutted the shift 
 parts 
 out of the lever, stuck a dt shifter on the boss, and everything works 
 fine.

 On Monday, March 10, 2014 5:32:14 AM UTC-7, ascpgh wrote:

 A pro racer, now fallen from grace, raced that set up prior to 
 sponsorship and commitment to riding a full STI component group. He 
 preferred free trim of the FD cage (Ergo does win that comparison) and 
 the 
 ability to gear for an event or one's riding, not the limitations of the 
 preset trim architecture of the group. Our event was an example of how 
 cookie cutter gearing choices didn't fit the bill. I may even have a 
 photo 
 of him riding the Sunday morning criterium event of the stage race my 
 shop 
 promoted. 

 A hill climb time trial, a mountainous road race, and a criterium all 
 on one bike. While racing may not be of interest or concern for many, I 
 thought that when go-fast bikes (and their riders) were made for this 
 kind 
 of stuff they were more comely than the four-or five digit-priced, overly 
 specialized, narrow use offerings defining the market now. I imagined 
 Eddy 
 Merckx heading out with a couple pieces of cobbler wrapped in paper 
 shoved 
 in his jersey pockets, bouncing along the cobbles of Belgium, floating 
 slightly off the saddle with his pedaling effort, on a smooth and 
 comfortable ride that he would keep up all day as a result.
  
 If a mix of controls seems agreeable to you, built it and ride it! I 
 had a tough time on the unmatched hoods of Ergo/STI and a standard brake 
 lever. Symmetry in my hands cut the mental noise on long rides, tangibly 
 saving energy so I went to all bar ends.  

 Andy Cheatham
 Pittsburgh

 On Sunday, March 9, 2014 9:52:14 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:

 At the risk of stating the obvious, if you like brifters for your 
 rear derailer but not the front, you can always put a down tube or bar 
 end 
 shifter on the left and just use the brifter for the rear mech. 

 On 

[RBW] Re: Brifters on a country bike

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, March 9, 2014 10:48:58 PM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 You might want to get a different bar to go with your brifters. The older 
 style drop bars like the Nitto noodle, etc, have broad front bends that can 
 interfere with braking since the shift levers are between the brake lever 
 and the bar. Not saying you can't do it with a noodle, just that it will be 
 less than ideal. Civia makes a drop bar that has a lot of good comfort 
 points and a sharper front bend that works better with brifters.

 
That's interesting. When you say brifter are you referring to Shimano STI 
levers? I run Nitto Noodle bars with Campy ergo shifters and love it! 
In fact, I picked up another noodle bar to put on my go-fast which also 
has Campy ergo shifters.  Note, a couple of other brifters out there - the 
previously mentioned retro-shift, microshift and of course, Sram. These may 
or may not work with older style drop bars like the noodle. Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] New Albion Privateer - not the best face yet, but getting there

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, February 27, 2014 6:00:08 PM UTC-8, Evan Baird wrote:

 Just posted another build up here.

 http://newalbioncycles.blogspot.com/2014/02/privateer-build-for-gravelbikecom.html?m=1

 In all honesty, the Privateer is identical to the Pake C'mute, with a few 
 little tweaks that make it more versatile, and lighter tubing. I actually 
 owen a C'mute, and its a fine bike, but I think most would agree these look 
 nicer.

Dropped into one of my LBSs, American Cyclery, and they had an Albion on 
this display:
 
 
http://americancyclery.com/collections/frontpage/products/new-albion-homebrew
 
I was surprised by the use of dt shifters and asked if he sold alot of 
them. He said that integrated shifters will add at least another $100 to 
the price tag (current retail is $900), so yes, there are people who want a 
nice bike and don't mind dt shifters to save a few dollars.
 
Seems like a pretty good deal for $900! Good Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using the RBW Yokozuna salmon pads?

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, February 9, 2014 9:57:33 AM UTC-8, Coconutbill wrote:

 First upgraded (IMO) the front brake pads to KoolStops. Noticeable 
 improvement.
 Recently did the same to the rear and noticed even better stopping power.


Are these yokozuna the same as the koostop salmon pads? Both are 
rust/salmon color? I run koolstop salmons and really like them. They work 
as advertise and are easy on the rims. Of course, standard disclaimer - 
YMMV! Good Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: Anyone using the RBW Yokozuna salmon pads?

[Brewster Fong]

Thanks! It is interesting that yokozuna chooses to copy the kool stop 
salmon pad. Perhaps yokozuna purchases them from koolstop?

What I really like about yokozuna are their cables! One of the local LBSs 
sells single strands of yokozuna der cables for $3. That's the best deal 
around for a very well made cable. The LBS, who is an authorized Campy Pro 
shop, thinks the yokozuna cable is the best in the business and better than 
Campy! That's saying something! Good Luck!


On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:45:11 PM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:

 I believe the salmon compound on Kool Stop or Yokozuna is the same as the 
 original Matthauser.  

 On Sunday, February 9, 2014 4:21:01 PM UTC-6, Brewster Fong wrote:



 On Sunday, February 9, 2014 9:57:33 AM UTC-8, Coconutbill wrote:

 First upgraded (IMO) the front brake pads to KoolStops. Noticeable 
 improvement.
 Recently did the same to the rear and noticed even better stopping power.


 Are these yokozuna the same as the koostop salmon pads? Both are 
 rust/salmon color? I run koolstop salmons and really like them. They work 
 as advertise and are easy on the rims. Of course, standard disclaimer - 
 YMMV! Good Luck! 



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[RBW] Re: School me on wool...

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 8:36:21 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote: 

  These days, cycling specific wool garment prices are astronomical.

 Goodwill has wool tops that are non cycling specific. Sometimes they have 
 100% Merino wool sweaters, like Gap, etc.

 Itch-and -fine-ness-factors aside, will these do just as well layering to 
 keep warm and dry in the winter, and the t-shirts in the summer to keep 
 cool and dry?
 Or does one have to use cycling specific wool to get the desired effects?

 
I agree with others that wool is wool!  For things like wool socks, I buy 
whatever has at least 60% or more merino wool content.  I do have a couple 
of pairs of woolie boolies, which are bicycle specific, but those just 
happened to be on sale.  However, for wool arm and leg warmers, I only buy 
bicycle specific ones from Kucharik. Made in the US of 100% merino wool 
(they also sell a blend), its not cheap, but very warm and comfortable.  
Further, I find that it holds up well and doesn't slip.  Good Luck! 
 

  
 I did have an Ibex score at Goodwill last year. 3 bucks and change for an 
 Ibex t-shirt!


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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for tire pumps on the road?

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:32:19 AM UTC-8, Michael wrote: 

  Guessing almost everyone here uses high volume tires (33.mm and up 
 tire widths).
 I have a 5 year old tiny mini pump that would probably take hundreds of 
 strokes to get a Hetre or Marathon inflated to 50psi.

 *Was wondering what you all like to use on the road.* Frame pumps? Minis? 
 Any minis you find work good on high volume tires?

 
I've been using a full frame pump forever.  Never cared for the small 
mini-pump. I have used Silca and more recently Topeak Master Blaster full 
frame pump and Blackburn Framepump.  I liked the Topeak, but for whatever 
reason, it kept breaking down. I had two and got replacement parts from 
Topeak. 
 
Then I tried the Blackburn and wow, great pump!  The Blackburn has a handle 
that rotates out and pumps really smoothly. It came in both a silver 
aluminum barrel and with a fancy carbon barrel.  Note, I have one of each 
and the fancy carbon version is just plastic over aluminum. It also 
feels heavier than the aluminium barrel too!  Unfortunately, Blackburn 
has discontinued the full size Framepump. What's available is probably NOS 
and of course, no replacement parts, errr!

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 7:20:28 AM UTC-8, James Warren wrote: 

  
 The one time my TaiwanColnago-riding friend was intrigued by wider tires, 
 he got some new 700x25's right before our ride, and 1 minute after putting 
 them on, he found that they cleared the seatstay bridge by about 0.2 mm! 
 But he otherwise likes his bike and likes to be fast and connects the 
 fastness to the bike frame and components, and so much for caring about 
 wider tires.

 
Yeah, I've been riding 700x25s at about 80-85psi for about 5 years now and 
love it! At first, I actually got alot of grief from my buddies for riding 
such *fat* tires! When you compared them to others who were on 700x20-23, 
my tires did look fat. Interestingly, I noticed no loss in performance and 
routinely coast by in my aero tuck pass my skinny buddies on the downhills 
as they furiously try to pedal to go faster. 
 
Unfortunately, like most people with carbon forks, 700x25 and crud fenders 
is the fattest tire I can fit. I suppose I could try a 700x28, but don't 
want to give up the fenders. Good Luck! 

  

  On Jan 2, 2014, at 6:56 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:

  So far no one I have ridden with has been intrigued about wider tires. 
  Maybe I need to find people with more curiosity!  :-)

 Your blog mentions the shorter contact patch of wider tires.  A decade or 
 so ago, one of the participants on rec.bicycles.tech made images of the 
 contact patches of various width tires.  What was striking was that he 
 showed little difference in the shape or size of the contact patch, 
 although perhaps his range of tire sizes was too small.  It would be 
 interesting to repeat this with good scientific rigor.

 Many wider tires, of course, do roll slower compared to skinny tires. 
  Tire manufacturers tend to put thicker rubber on wider tires for some 
 reason, perhaps marketing assumptions about the buyers of wider tires, 
 which increases hysteresis; casings for wider tires tend to be made with 
 heavier thread for reasons due to physics, which may increase hysteresis; 
 and of course wider tires with heavier casings and thicker tread will weigh 
 more and may affect the responsiveness of the bike to rider input.  High 
 quality performance oriented wide tires, such as the ones Jan promotes, are 
 a much different product.  Even my wide-ish mid-level 26 x 1.25 Paselas 
 roll very well compared to my 700 x 25s.

 P.S.-  my wife gave me the Rene Herse book for Christmas.  I am 100 pages 
 in and enjoying it very much, although perhaps the title should have been 
 Rene Herse and most of the history of French cyclotourisme.  I have 
 always enjoyed the historical articles in BQ and this book has that in 
 spades.  It is big enough that reading it in bed is self-limiting!

 Tim

 On Jan 2, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Jan Heine hei...@earthlink.net javascript: 
 wrote:

  Even though most RBW folks may not care all that much about going fast, 
 it's still nice to know that a wider tire doesn't roll any slower. We 
 summarized the data in our blog here:

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2014/01/01/tires-how-wide-is-too-wide/

 If anything, it may help persuade those we meet on our rides, who look at 
 our bikes and are intrigued by the idea of a more comfortable bike with 
 wider tires, but are afraid they won't be able to keep up with their 
 friends if they add 5 or 10 mm to their tire width.

 Happy New Year!

 Jan Heine
 Editor
 Bicycle Quarterly
 www.bikequarterly.com

 Follow our blog at www.janheine.wordpress.com

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   James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net javascript:

 - 700x55







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[RBW] Re: My Bleriot's Resale value diminished because of this?

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, December 29, 2013 7:28:02 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 October 2012, I got hit in the side by a slow moving car that entered into 
 the traffic circle I was travelling through.
 More like the car pushed me over than hit me.

 I took the bike to two LBS's to have it checked out before the insurance 
 settlement.
 Both shops said that the frame was perfect. Alignment A-OK.

 Only damage on the bike was the rear rim, which was replaced. I didn;t 
 even find any scratches from the accident, except the ones on me.

 Does the fact that it was in a accident devalue the bike, even though the 
 frame is perfecto and the components, too?


Are you selling the bike? If not, why are you worried about the value of 
your bike? If both LBS give it the green like and the only damage has 
been repaired/replaced, then I wouldn't worry about it and just ride!  Good 
Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Dancing Around the Lugged Steel Maypole

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 3:20:23 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 

 We're seeing a lot of broken right hand shift cables these days: there's 
 some sort of 
 fatigue point inside many Shimano STI units. But when the cable breaks, 
 it's always at the shifter.  

 
Yup, it appears that ever since Shimano decided to put their cabling under 
the handlebar tape, there's been problems with the head of the shifter 
cable breaking inside the STI lever:
 
http://jimlangley.blogspot.com/2007/09/q-cable-stuck-inside-shimano-sti.html
 
This didn't seem to happen when Shimano had their STI cables outside of the 
handlebar tape.
 

 That leaves lots of perfectly good cable 
 attached to the rear derailleur. 

 So unscrew the bolts on a water bottle cage.  With your thumb push the 
 rear derailleur in so that the chain lines up with a sprocket that will 
 give you a couple of usable gears on your two chain rings, and put 
 tension on the derailleur cable to hold it in place.  Catch the cable 
 under the water bottle cage and screw the bolts back down to hold the 
 tension. 

 
Great advice! Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: New RBW Silver brand chainrings available!

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, December 16, 2013 10:32:45 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote: 

  Very cool.
  Wouldn't it be cool if they had a whole line of Silver branded 
 components?
 Could deck out the whole frameset with complete Silver build.

 Wonder if they will only sell these rings from now on at RBW?
 Glad to know there is a place where I can buy rings for my favoritest 
 Sugino XD2 triple crankset whenever I will need them!

 http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chr2.htmhttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rivbike.com%2Fproduct-p%2Fchr2.htmsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNFNXhm90wMn0SxzQjfLIR7g2z-ylQ

  
What's interesting is the weird tooth counts being offered - 45, 43, 35?!  
They're made in the USA, they're probably made by Vuelta using the Silver 
(or S!lver brand name).  For the  110bcd, if they wanted to be different, 
Riv should have had one made in 33t like TA!  Good Luck! 
 

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[RBW] Re: Dancing Around the Lugged Steel Maypole

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:56:56 PM UTC-8, Doug Williams wrote:

 I'm weaving flowers into my beard right now and looking for a lugged steel 
 maypole. Care to join me? From SRAM and the Bike Snob New York:

 Doug


 *It has recently come to our attention that during last weekend’s 
 Cyclocross racing in the US, in sub freezing temperatures, several failures 
 were reported. In these conditions the master cylinder seals failed to hold 
 pressure resulting in abrupt loss of brake power, and an inability to stop 
 the bike. These failures are related to product that is outside the 
 originally stated date code range and unrelated to the original failure 
 mode. No injuries have been reported to date.*

 *As a result of this new finding, SRAM requests that anyone who has a bike 
 equipped with SRAM Hydraulic Disc or Hydraulic Rim Brakes stop using the 
 bike immediately. All products shipped to date, and currently in the market 
 or in inventory will be recalled.*

 Upon reading this, retrogrouches around the world wove flowers into their 
 beards and danced arm-in-arm around the lugged steel maypole, reveling in 
 the irony that the very conditions in which hydrolic dick breaks are 
 supposed to excel were instead their undoing.  Meanwhile, the experts at 
 SRAM have been working around the clock to find a new way to convince 
 people that you need hydraulic braking for slow bicycle races that last 
 only 45 minutes to an hour in which you have access to a spare bicycle 
 roughly every five minutes.

 As for the hydraulic rim brakes, all SRAM has to say about that is that if 
 you actually bought those then the joke's on you. 


Its actually worse, this is going to be very expensive for Sram:

 
http://www.bicycleretailer.com/recalls/2013/12/17/sram-says-brake-recall-disruptive-and-painful#.UrEgovRDuSo

I can see the lawyers lining up now.

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[RBW] Re: What deals they were!

[Brewster Fong]

Agree, a custom Riv is currently at $3500. When you look at other custom 
builders, that's pretty much in the middle. On the high end, you can  wait 
5+ years and get yourself a Vanilla or Richard Sachs and pay whatever the 
going rate is at the time your name is called, I believe right now they're 
both in the $5K to $5.5k range. There are other high end builders like 
Brent Steelman who is charging about the same. A little lower, you can find 
Bruce Gordon at about $4k, Tom Kellogg at about $3k-$4k depending on model 
and material. On the low end, Roland Della Santa is still at about $2k or 
so. Quite a bargain if that's what you want!
 
Similarly, you can get custom carbon in the same price range from Crumpton, 
Parlee and Calfee. I believe all three offer an adventure version that 
allows fatter tires (700x32/35 or even 650b) and fenders!
 
However, the thing with getting a custom Rivendell is you're buying not 
just a beautiful custom steel frame, but their philosophy.  You're getting 
a Grant-designed bike with his specific geometry for YOU. Yes, others can 
make a sport-touring bike, but it won't necessarily ride like a 
custom Riv. If you want a custom Riv, then that's what you get! Good Luck!
 

On Monday, December 16, 2013 7:51:39 AM UTC-8, Ryan wrote:

  Considering that Carbon race bikes with top-of-the line SRAM or Campy or 
 Shimano can tip 5 figures (Gulp!) in Canada (Specialized, 
 Cervelo,Scott...etc) , Rivs are still a bargain
  
 for comparison, though:
 1997 Riv all-rounder $1325 w cream headtube and my name + Phil BB and 
 Tange Rollerball installed  - a tick over $1500 US
 2001 Riv road custom - $2100 (which included the Chris King no-logo 
 headset...I just missed the $1800 former price when I ordered the bike in 
 Aug 2000)...so 2.2K or so with the installed Phil BB
 Glad I got them when I did. 
 I don't think that their current prices are excessive considering their 
 durability and classic good looks
  
 Ryan in Winnipeg
 On Saturday, December 14, 2013 8:28:15 AM UTC-6, Fullylugged wrote:

 I was using the time between sets of push ups (too yucky out to pedal 
 today) and cruising the RBW web site this morning. Looking at the 
 framesets, I see where Atlantis is now 2,300 F.O.B. origin. When I 
 bought my Ram in late 2006, it was 1,350 and the Atlantis was only 
 $1,400.  Using the AIER cost of living calculator, 1400 in 2006 is worth 
 1,618 today, so frames have gone up significantly more than the prices 
 of everyday goods as a whole. This is not to say they cost too much now, 
 just a realization that those of us who were fortunate enough to get RBW 
 bikes back then got really good deals on really good bikes. 

 Bruce 



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[RBW] Re: POLL: You like Gray or black housing for your Rivendell? Ferrules?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, October 31, 2013 4:09:54 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote: 

  1. You like gray or black on your Rivendell?
 2. You like silver, or brass colored ferrules like Riv does?
  
 Noticed that Riv builds have gray housing with brass ferrules. Was 
 wondering why they use that combo.
 Seems like it stands out less on a bike than black housing does. What a 
 cool idea. Don't know if they really do it for that reason.
  
 So was wondering what everyone's preference was for their Rivendells.
  
 My answers:
 1. Gray
 2. Brass.

 
If you like brass ferrules, you may also like brass cable adjusters too:
 
http://www.kirkframeworks.com/accessories_photos/barrel_adj.jpg
 
Reasonably priced too at $10/pair:
 
http://www.kirkframeworks.com/accessories.htm
 
Good Luck! 

   
 I hope to put gray on my Bleriot soon. it has black now. I like the gray 
 on my Sam.


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[RBW] Re: Nitto love and more box origami

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, October 31, 2013 12:54:16 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote: 

 I got a Riv Box yesterday.  My order was Steel Albatross bars, tektro 
 brakelevers, a bar of grampa's pine tar soap, a black and white bandanna, 
 and some goldy brassy ferrules.   

 1.  The box was so small that I was 100% CERTAIN that one of three things 
 had happened:  
   A. they forgot to ship the handlebars
   B. they shipped the wrong bars
   C. the box was a tardis--bigger on the inside than the outside

 Turns out it must have been C, because the steel Albatross bars were in 
 there.  Amazing such a big bar fit in what looked like such a little box

 2.  Getting a new Nitto Part is always really gratifying for me.  I think 
 Nitto is really nice

 
Agree, I have a Nitto Noodle bar on my litespeed and love it! Yes, its 
heavy, at least compared to alot of bars these days, but the shape is so 
perfect that I don't care. In fact, I recently purchased another Noodle bar 
from an LBS and am going to put it on my Calfee! Haha, that ought to get my 
weightweenie friends up in arm when they find out I'm *adding weight* to my 
bike?! 

  
 3.  I love my bandanna collection.  I recommend adding a $3 bandanna to 
 every Riv order.  I'm becoming a bit of a bandanna hoarder.  

 4.  I really like how classy my builds look with brassy ferrules.  I used 
 to ask Mark A personally for a handful when I needed them.  I'm glad they 
 sell them in those $5 baggies now.  

 
Nice. If you like brassy ferrules, you may want to consider getting a pair 
of matching brass derailleur cable adjusters like these:
 
pic: http://www.kirkframeworks.com/accessories_photos/barrel_adj.jpg
 
link: http://www.kirkframeworks.com/accessories.htm
 
Good Luck! 
 
 

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