[RBW] WTB: 1 Roll-y Pol-y tire with black sidewalls

[EasyRider]

I have one of these already, and am looking for a second -- new or used.

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Rivendell has the almost perfect crankset for me

[EasyRider]

Joel, what about the 48/36/26 Sugino XD600 triple? It comes in a 165mm length 
and it’s what Rivendell sold before developing the Silver cranks.

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[EasyRider]

I think it'd look like a Rosco Bubbe Road, except 650b in the smaller sizes 
because it won't have been designed around leftover SimpleOne forks.

On Monday, September 23, 2019 at 9:11:29 AM UTC-4, Timothy Hurley wrote:
>
> “Mix of Roadinni and Clem” sounds very interesting. What do you all think 
> that would look like? Something like a rim brake Crust Bombora? 

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[EasyRider]

Yes, I think insta-ready all-road bikes have been *en vogue* for several 
years, and a 28mm-tired bike called "Roadini" isn't that, even if 
UltraRomance rides one.

On Wednesday, September 18, 2019 at 11:31:57 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> Yeah, I was disheartened to hear that the Roadini didn't sell very well. I 
> think everyone should have zippy but comfy 32mm tire road bike in their 
> stable, and the Roadini seems to fit the bill. I wonder if people talked 
> themselves out of buying because of the sloping top tube or the perceived 
> stoutness of the tubing. I can't fault anyone for preferring different 
> aesthetics--after all, that's one of things that drove my to Rivendell. But 
> it's too bad when aesthetic preferences get in the way of a great, 
> affordable bike.
>
> I do hope they take another crack at a "more affordable than a Roadeo" 
> road bike in the future. I love my Roadeo, but I understand the price puts 
> it out of reach for some.
>
> On Wednesday, September 18, 2019 at 12:28:47 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> Rob Kristoff asked:
>>
>> Wasn't the Roadini meant to be the road version of a Clem?
>>
>>
>> Yes, it was meant to be the road version of a Clem and it successfully 
>> was that, in my opinion and experience. I think Rivendell miscalculated 
>> what many people want. Many people want a cheap racing bike. The Roadini 
>> was a smart civilized affordable road bike. Many people want to buy a bike 
>> that looks like a racing bike, and those people in general didn't think the 
>> Leo Roadini looked enough like a bike intended for racing. Who cares if it 
>> is just as fast and more comfortable? The roadies on my club ride make fun 
>> of it because it looks weird.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[EasyRider]

Cyclocross bike, with a Legolas/Quickbeam/Rosco Road geometry.

On Wednesday, September 11, 2019 at 8:18:23 PM UTC-4, John G. wrote:
>
> The September email update teases a new bike: the Charlie H Gallop. 
> PREDICTIONS! GO!
>
> Mine: MIT lugged road-ish bike with Cantis. 650B even at the largest size. 
> Level top tube, but fewer size options.
>

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Re: [RBW] Recommend a film camera

[EasyRider]

I've been using OMs and Electro 35s for a long time and both are fine 
cameras. 

What really sets the OM-1 apart is that is it noticeably more compact than 
similar vintage Nikons, but still has a large viewfinder that is just plain 
nice to look through. It's way better than most DSLRs, and more pleasant to 
use than film point and shoot viewfinders. It makes me want to use the 
camera and the small size makes it practical to do so. The Electro is 
pretty hefty, has a nice (fixed) lens, and for me, the viewfinder isn't as 
pleasant to use. But a nice to hold camera nonetheless.

Pete
Arlington, VA


On Sunday, August 18, 2019 at 9:47:26 PM UTC-4, tc wrote:

> Another vote for the Yashica T4, if you're looking for a film 
> point-n-shoot.  I got a T4 Super eons ago, and it's def the best 
> point-n-shoot film camera I've had.  Sweet Zeiss glass.  When not in use, 
> the lens retracts, and a handy auto lens cover slides over to protect 
> it...making the front face of the camera flat, which helps with storage and 
> pocket-ability.
>
> Tom
>

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[RBW] Re: advice on 26x2.0 tires

[EasyRider]

Continental DoubleFighter IIIs might fit the bill. I was looking for a tire 
under $40 a few years ago and got a pair for $60. Riv is out of Continental 
Race King Sports but those are lighter than the DoubleFighters and have a 
knobbier tread.

Echoing others I also like the ThunderBurts and Big Bens. On my mostly 
asphalt commuter I use a TB up front and a Big Ben in the back.

Pete
Arlington, VA

On Monday, May 20, 2019 at 8:03:56 PM UTC-4, jandrews wrote:
>
> Greetings Bunch
>
> I'm looking for some new commuting / touring / gravelish tires for my 
> wife's Bruce Gordon BLT.
>
> She currently has the older Compass tires that had the pasela looking 
> tread.  They are 26x1.75
>
> [image: compass26x1-75.jpg]
>
>
> We've recently had the bike overhauled a little after about 10 years of 
> pretty hard use and the existing stainless steel fenders will allow some 
> slightly bigger rubber.
>
> She's starting to commute to work which is on a farm.  It's about a 6 mile 
> commute and there is about a mile and and a half of pretty large gravel.
>
> Any suggestions on a nice riding, somewhat supple, somewhat protective 
> tire (for Tubes) that would fit the bill.  something in 26x2.0 or 2.1 max 
> that is also not going to break the bank?
>
> She commutes and we do a couple of week long tours per year.  Ride plenty 
> of gravel and hard pack.  Not much mud.
>
> Thanks 
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[EasyRider]

Another benefit of the Altus cantis is that they will work with older forks 
that have narrower post spacing. The Bridgestone RB-T, for example.

On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 3:21:58 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>
>
>  I too find that price in no guarantees anything more than the expenditure 
> itself. For me the best canti per given frame is the one that works. Oh I 
> know how that sounds, but from the all the bikes I have/had with canti 
> brakes, no 2 are ever alike. For one there is no standard spacing 
> vertically or horizontally due to limitless frame designs and constructor 
> sensibilities. It's part of the canti "mystique" I suppose.
> For every "this *whatever* is best" ... I ask for just whom would that be 
> best for, and it seems best for none other than the claim itself, which is 
> nobody ! 
>
> What's the canti best brake ?. 
> *Whaddaya got, let's try it  ! *
>
>
> Shimano BR-MC70's, M73x series , Suntour XC Pro and Tektro CR710 all have 
> worked well for me. The CR720 ...not so far... maybe on some other bike 
> they'll work. Kool Stop Salmon or black pads both work fine. I only use the 
> basic straddle carriers, the rest are good for taking up storage space it 
> seems.  I prefer posted pads too , especially in the front to clear the 
> fork. KS pads can easily be shortened with a pair of snips and a file. The 
> pads internal frame only goes back to the last notch in the rubber, 
> allowing the easy mod. Pads used to be centered in the 80's so clearance 
> was never an issue. I find not one thing beneficial about offset or even 
> longer pads than road sized.
>
> Thanks for the heads up about the Altus canti James, I may get a set.  
> It's funny how "low end" parts can be overlooked, when they're often quite 
> fine. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: What're the best cantilever brakes out there?

[EasyRider]

Erik, 

If I understand you, what you want is a brake that will allow you to run 
wider tires than you have now, and remove your wheels without deflating 
your tires. Everyone has their favorite brake, but if it doesn't open up 
far enough to do those things, it won't be your favorite brake, right?

In other words, not every brake/tire combo may suit your purpose. For 
example, the Riv product page for the Dia-Compe 980s says, "Compared to the 
Shimano CX-50? The CX-50 is a less attractive brake, but works great and 
opens up further to let out a fatter tire easier--which is why we recommend 
this Dia-Compe for tires up to 45mm only."


Pete
Arlington, VA


On Sunday, April 14, 2019 at 8:00:01 PM UTC-4, Erik Wright wrote

> I'm thinking about getting canti posts brazed onto my sidepull Sam 
> Hillborne to fit a wider tire / make wide tire installation easier. Canti 
> brakes would be replacing Paul Racers.
>
> If I go this route, what are the best options out there? I figure top of 
> the line is Paul, but what's a more affordable brake? I see a lot of 
> chatter around Shimano CX70, but hear they're discontinued. Is there a 
> comparable option available now, or does it make sense to hunt down a used 
> set of CX70s? If I splurge on Neo Retros, am I gaining anything 
> functionally over other options?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Erik, Philly
>

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[RBW] Re: Grant's Waterford SS FS

[EasyRider]

 Me too. Would love to see more pictures of that bike. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: Balance Bikes for Bouncing Babies

[EasyRider]

Also went with a Stampede balance bike around age 3. The appeal to me was a 
hand brake and fat tires. It needed about 30 minutes of tune up out of the 
box. Got a Woom 3 for 5th birthday and was riding it within 10 minutes. 
Every kid is different but I think balance bike with a hand brake was 
really helpful to him. It was one less thing to learn when he was trying to 
figure out how to ride a pedal bike. Unfortunately, I think the business is 
no longer, so you might try finding one used. It was at a price point 
between Woom and the less-featured balance bikes. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Red Bubbes?

[EasyRider]

When I bought my bronze R. Bubbe two years ago, I seriously considered the 
red one, which is nearly identical except for a longer TT intended for 
swept-back bars. I think I've only seen ONE picture of a built-up red R. 
Bubbe. Anyone want to show theirs off?

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Re: [RBW] Winter wool baselayer rec needed

[EasyRider]

Brynnar, yes, I've been wearing the Costco stuff for several years and I 
think it's hard to beat for the price. The tops are 1/4 zip synthetics with 
a small percentage of merino in them for comfort. The tops are branded 
"Paradox". I was at an REI yesterday and determined they are about a 150 
weight. The bottoms I use are branded "32 degree heat" tights, no fly, and 
are shockingly warm for their weight. I wear them over breathable synthetic 
boxer briefs and under shorts or knickers.

The shirts are starting to wear out, so that is why I started the thread, 
to see what I might do instead of buying more of the same. I'm pretty sold 
on using long leg boxer briefs and cheapo tights, but I'm going to give the 
Wiggys fishnet shirt and liner jacket suggestions a try. 

On Monday, November 12, 2018 at 8:09:24 AM UTC-5, ctifusion wrote:
>
> Is the the Costco brand? I bought a couple tops and bottoms at Costco last 
> year, part wool part poly, and they are great and cheap! Like 20% the cost 
> of smartwool. And work just as well IMO. I haven't checked what they are 
> carrying this year but I'll be on the lookout.
>
> brynnar
> indy
>
> On Sunday, November 11, 2018 at 8:41:33 AM UTC-5, Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>
>> Since the demise of Ibex and especially their fall sale, I have been 
>> enjoying   -33   as long as you like the color black, their long underwear 
>> bottoms are excellent, cycled in them yesterday.   Steve
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 11, 2018 at 8:38 AM EasyRider  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks all. It sounds like the 150 weight might be what I want.
>>>
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>> -- 
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Winter wool baselayer rec needed

[EasyRider]

Thanks for the suggestion, Will. The vest version of the liner jacket is 
appealing to me. I would prefer a standup collar but as you point out, a neck 
gaiter serves the purpose. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Winter wool baselayer rec needed

[EasyRider]

Thanks all. It sounds like the 150 weight might be what I want.

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[RBW] Winter wool baselayer rec needed

[EasyRider]

I'm looking for a half or quarter zip merino pullover and could use some recs, 
especially with regard to weight/warmth.

For the past several winters daily commutes (15 miles round trip, most days the 
temp is with 10 degrees of freezing) I've been wearing a very light poly-merino 
blend pullovers, a cheapo poly half zip pullover over that (a general all 
purpose "jogging" and whatnot), and a vest or windbreaker over that. That's 
about right warmth for these parts. But all those poly baselayers means a lot 
of laundry because it picks up a stink, and quick. I'd like to get one high 
quality merino baselayer and wash once a week. But, I'm uncertain what the 
right weight to get is.

I THINK I want something "midweight" but I'm not sure what that means in terms 
of spec or labeling to look for. I want something I could wear alone under a 
fleece vest most days, and maybe add a packable windbreaker over top, or a 
softshell jacket on very cold days. The other requirement is a zip up collar, 
not a crew neck.

I checked Riv for options and didn't see any, so what would you recommend?

Pete
Arlington, VA

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Re: [RBW] Surprise New Bike Day

[EasyRider]

What a neat bike. Speaking of fixed gear, is that a fixed cog I see on the 
non-driveside of the rear wheel?

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini on Brevet--SFR Del Puerto Canyon 200k ride report

[EasyRider]

Nicely done Bill. With writing like this, pictures are unnecessary; they're 
in my head.

Reading your report made me want to take my bronze Rosco Road on a long 
ride. Do you think you'd notice much difference between your Roadini and 
your blue Rosco Road on a ride like this, if both bikes were set up 
similarly? My "Roadini" is a '94 RB-T with standard diameter tubes and 32mm 
tires. It's less versatile than my Rosco but appealing in its own ways for 
longer rides.

Pete
Arlington, VA


On Sunday, November 4, 2018 at 10:32:05 AM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Yesterday was the Del Puerto Canyon 200k brevet, hosted by San Francisco 
> Randonneurs. Luckily for me the day remained conflict-free and I was able 
> to do it.  It was the 26th RUSA event of my career of 200k or greater, and 
> I logged my best time ever: 8 hours 18 minutes.  
>
> I woke up a little earlier than I needed to, at 4:45AM.  I was able to 
> pack light because of the amazing weather forecast.  The Del Puerto Canyon 
> 200k starts and finishes in Pleasanton, CA, just south of Mount Diablo.  
> The ride goes out and over the hills that make up the Altamont 
> Pass,meanders through the flat farm roads around Tracy and Wesley, and then 
> returns out and over the same hills via Del Puerto Canyon.  The forecast 
> called for temps in the low 50s to start and venturing into the high 70s in 
> some places.  So I wore bib-shorts, a light base layer, short sleeve 
> jersey, arm warmers and a reflective vest.  The ride started at 8AM, which 
> would be light enough to not require any lighting.  Sunset would come at 
> about 6PM, so I did bring lights just in case I went over 10 hours.  I 
> carried a little Cygolite Dart (from Riv), a battery taillight, and two 
> elastic head lamps that could serve as backup head or tail lights. I also 
> carried a USB battery stick in case I needed to boost my phone, Wahoo, or 
> headlight.  In my Ruthworks rackless Brevet bag went those lighting bits, a 
> few bars, and a travel size sunscreen for when the armwarmers came off and 
> the guns came out.  I made coffee and breakfast, got lubed up and dressed 
> and I was a good 25 minutes ahead of schedule.  I had planned to catch the 
> 6:20AM Bart train, and it's a 5-minute bomb down the hill to get to the 
> Bart station.  I went ahead and decided to grab the 6:00AM train instead 
> and left early, and still had to wait on the platform for several minutes.  
> The Fremont Train takes me down past Oakland to the transfer station at Bay 
> Fair, where I transfer to a Pleasanton train to head over the hills in 
> Castro Valley out to the start. There was a delay due to track repair, and 
> a chilly wait for my Pleasanton train, but I was still at the start with my 
> card in plenty of time.  
>
> The turnout for this event was huge; the biggest ever for this event which 
> was first run in 2011.  ~150 randos had signed up, partially because of the 
> great weather forecast, partially because there is always an uptick in 
> participation the year before a PBP year, and partially because this is 
> SFRs flattest 200k, with "only" 5300 ft of climbing. It was a huge bunch 
> that started off. I didn't want to get sucked up with any of the 'too fast' 
> groups, so I looked for familiar SFR riders who I knew were in my time-zone 
> and hung with them for the first ~15 miles through the urban streets of 
> Pleasanton and Livermore before the first climb began. That first climb was 
> around 1200ft, with a gradually increasing grade all along its length, 
> topping off at around 10% at the peak. This did a good job of stretching 
> out the riders, and there was essentially no traffic so it was a great time 
> to move up. I was feeling good, so I left the familiar group behind and 
> passed a lot of slower riders. I was aiming for a decent time, and one way 
> to make a good time is to not waste a lot of time at controls. The first 
> control threatened to be a time sink if you arrive within a few minutes of 
> a lot of other riders, because there would be only one volunteer to stamp 
> your card, while a second volunteer checks your name on the roster. I was 
> motivated to move up if I could, and I found a great rhythm on Leo. 
> Checking my Strava, the majority of the climb is captured in the "Tesla 
> Topper" segment. That 8.24 mile segment climbs 981ft, and I averaged 
> 13.3mph for that segment. If I could average >20kph on one of the few 
> climbs, a sub-10-hour ride and finishing before dark was looking good. 
>
> I found a partner to paceline with on the fast descent, who noted "we 
> should get the miles in NOW, while we have a tailwind". The descent and the 
> flat farm roads on the valley floor felt like cheating, we were moving 
> really fast. I found another group of strong riders to work with on the 
> farm roads, which were thankfully quite smooth and almost car-free. I 
> noticed another rider up the road a bit, so I pushed harder to bridge up to 
> 

[RBW] Washington, D.C. Rides/Recommendations.

[EasyRider]

David, 

You might try a nighttime tour of the mall and monuments using capital bike 
share. It will probably still be crisp and not near cold by Chicago standards. 
Just start where ever is closest to your hotel and make a circle of the 
reflecting pool. You'll see the following:

Lincoln memorial
Vietnam veterans memorial
Korean War memorial
WWI and WWII memorials
Smithosonian buildings, including the new African American history museum,
The us capitol and arboretum,
The Washington monument, and more.

Once you've seen those, you could walk or ride around the tidal basin and see 
the Jefferson, FDR, and MLK memorials.

At night the memorials are a bit different and the crowds more sparse. 
Bikeshare bikes have lights but you may want to bring a cygolite or similar if 
you have one.

Several of the bridges crossing the Potomac are being repaired at the moment, 
so some crossing  may be easier than others. The Arlington loop is a fine 
choice for a longer ride, but I would suggest an short afternoon ride to 
gravelly point instead. It's simply a spot on the Virginia side of the river 
next to DCA where one can watch planes takeoff and land, a la Wayne's World. 
Also some nice views of dc across the Potomac. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: The origins of bar-end shifters and other mysteries

[EasyRider]

I'm no racer, but I've wanted to replace the downtube shifter controlling 
my front derailleur with a bar-end because I lack the coordination to shift 
crisply with my left hand. I like the downtube shifter for my RD just fine.

I think I've seen some Riv staff bikes set up opposite, with the 
FD/left-hand bar-end replaced with downtube shifter, so that when the bike 
is shouldered it the shifter doesn't poke anyone.

On Wednesday, September 12, 2018 at 2:18:43 PM UTC-4, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> Many of us love bar-end shifters, but little is known about the history of 
> these handy little things.
>
> On the blog today, we're looking at one of those fascinating mysteries of 
> cycling history: Why did 22 racers switch to bar-end shifters DURING the 
> 1949 Tour de France? And why did they use only one bar-end shifter, to 
> control the front derailleur, but kept their downtube lever to operate the 
> rear derailleur?
>
> Aldo Ross dove into his collection of sepia-tone magazines, we scoured the 
> *Bicycle 
> Quarterly* archives, and we solved this mystery as much as it can be 
> solved almost 70 years after the fact. Head to the blog to read about this 
> and other mysteries from cycling's rich history.
>
>
> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/09/12/international-mysteries-of-cycling-history/
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Jan Heine
> Editor-in-Chief
> Bicycle Quarterly
> Seattle, WA, USA
> www.bikequarterly.com
>

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[RBW] Front vs. rear loads for AHH

[EasyRider]

I really like the sackville trunksack small. It carries a lot more than I 
would've thought, but it's hard to make it heavy, even full. I use mine to 
carry life's doodads ... snacks, wallet, keys, phone, tools, hardware store 
errands, camera, all that stuff at the same time. I pair it with a small 
carradice saddle bag if I'm commuting and need to take a change of clothes. It 
comes on and off a small front rack very easily but it is also the most secure 
front bag I've ever used.

I also use and enjoy the swift ozette on a low trail bike, and a basket and 
medium shopsack on another. Those bags are better for commutes that include a 
beer run, but the trunksack is better for traveling light or when the handlebar 
situation makes a basket or randonneur bag difficult to fit. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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Re: [RBW] Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[EasyRider]

Thanks Patrick, that's great to hear. I'll give it a try.

Pete

 

On Thursday, August 30, 2018 at 11:19:12 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> With a 10 speed chains, I've only used Sugino and Vuelta, and there is no 
> difference in their performance. 
>
> Note, I use a 42 in the middle position and a 28 in the granny/inside 
> position; no outer (there's a guard there instead). But no problems 
> shifting between the inner 2 rings with 10 speed chains.
>
> On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 8:11 AM, EasyRider  > wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone. 
>>
>> Patrick, have you found some chainrings better than others on on your 
>> Logic crank? Somewhere -- either here on or iBob -- I read that TA's rings 
>> might work best. I don't have the 42t ring I need so I figure it can't hurt 
>> to get one from Peter White. On the other hand, he indicates that TA's 
>> granny rings might not work with the Sugino XD:
>>
>> *Some triple cranksets have fixed studs to mount the innermost chainring. 
>> For example, Sugino sells quite a few triple cranksets with 110mm x 74mm 
>> bolt circles. A casual glance at the cranks and TA chainrings in those bolt 
>> circles might lead you to think that TA rings will work, but in most cases 
>> they don't, because the fixed mounting studs for the inner 74mm bolt circle 
>> chainring places the ring too far to the inside for use with TA chainrings.*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 29, 2018 at 2:02:28 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> IME, you might well be lucky and have no problem running 10 speeds with 
>>> old cranks. I'm happily using a 10 speed chain with a 8-speed era Logic 
>>> crank; no problems.
>>>
>>> Friction front shifting, btw.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:58 AM, EasyRider  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others 
>>>> have said it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 
>>>> 10 speed setups (either the narrower chain falls into the gap between 
>>>> rings 
>>>> or an indexed FD doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift, 
>>>> or both.)
>>>>
>>>> If I wanted to run the xd2 as a compact double (42/28), do you think 
>>>> using thin washers to shim the middle ring in closer to the granny ring 
>>>> would prevent those 10 speed compatibility issues? I'd leave the outer 
>>>> ring 
>>>> off or get a chain guard.
>>>>
>>>> I ask because I have a bike with 10 speed indexing in need of a new 
>>>> crank and I just found a pair of xd2s in the coop parts bin for $10.
>>>>
>>>> Pete
>>>> Arlington, VA
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>>> Other professional writing services.
>>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>>> *
>>> ***
>>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
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> Other professional writing services.
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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Re: [RBW] Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[EasyRider]

Thanks everyone. 

Patrick, have you found some chainrings better than others on on your Logic 
crank? Somewhere -- either here on or iBob -- I read that TA's rings might 
work best. I don't have the 42t ring I need so I figure it can't hurt to 
get one from Peter White. On the other hand, he indicates that TA's granny 
rings might not work with the Sugino XD:

*Some triple cranksets have fixed studs to mount the innermost chainring. 
For example, Sugino sells quite a few triple cranksets with 110mm x 74mm 
bolt circles. A casual glance at the cranks and TA chainrings in those bolt 
circles might lead you to think that TA rings will work, but in most cases 
they don't, because the fixed mounting studs for the inner 74mm bolt circle 
chainring places the ring too far to the inside for use with TA chainrings.*





On Wednesday, August 29, 2018 at 2:02:28 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> IME, you might well be lucky and have no problem running 10 speeds with 
> old cranks. I'm happily using a 10 speed chain with a 8-speed era Logic 
> crank; no problems.
>
> Friction front shifting, btw.
>
> On Wed, Aug 29, 2018 at 7:58 AM, EasyRider  > wrote:
>
>> Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have 
>> said it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10 
>> speed setups (either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or 
>> an indexed FD doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift, or 
>> both.)
>>
>> If I wanted to run the xd2 as a compact double (42/28), do you think 
>> using thin washers to shim the middle ring in closer to the granny ring 
>> would prevent those 10 speed compatibility issues? I'd leave the outer ring 
>> off or get a chain guard.
>>
>> I ask because I have a bike with 10 speed indexing in need of a new crank 
>> and I just found a pair of xd2s in the coop parts bin for $10.
>>
>> Pete
>> Arlington, VA
>>
>> -- 
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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[RBW] Shimming middle chainring of sugino XD2 for 10 speed chain?

[EasyRider]

Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have said 
it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10 speed setups 
(either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or an indexed FD 
doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift, or both.)

If I wanted to run the xd2 as a compact double (42/28), do you think using thin 
washers to shim the middle ring in closer to the granny ring would prevent 
those 10 speed compatibility issues? I'd leave the outer ring off or get a 
chain guard.

I ask because I have a bike with 10 speed indexing in need of a new crank and I 
just found a pair of xd2s in the coop parts bin for $10.

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Full brimmed hat recommendations

[EasyRider]

I have an Ex Oficio boonie hat that is just ok. On re plus side, it's shaped a 
little diff than a boonie to give more neck coverage, and it's very light, 
unlike a surplus store boonie, which just traps heat. The downside is the 
sizing is coarse and the brim is not really shapeable. I think here are better 
hats out there.

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[EasyRider]

Yep, I think that might be part of the problem. Nitto knows best so if they say 
it's because the rack is getting overloaded, ok. But unlike the Marks and 32f 
mini, the level of the m12 platform is not adjustable unless some part gets 
bent. (Those other racks have fork brackets or p clamps for adjustability). 

That pic makes it looks Iike people might be compromising the m12, or cracking 
the fork crown bolt on installation: First bolting it to the fork crown and 
then using the platform for leverage to bend the rack level, or so the canti 
struts line up. Are they bending it at a weld? 

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[RBW] Re: Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[EasyRider]

I predict HIGH demand for such a rack. 

I've used and broken the cheapo Sunlite front rack. Dunno if the design has 
changed since, but the diving board was very cheap and broke suddenly. It was 
not overloaded; I think it was actually empty when it failed. It didn't fall 
forward onto the wheel, bending at the canti mounts, but I imagine 10lbs of 
cargo would have easily done it.

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[RBW] Grant is asking us to not run baskets on Nitto Racks

[EasyRider]

Bill, you make a good point about Nitto's conservative weight ratings can make 
it seem like other manufacturers racks, of similar design, are stronger, when 
in reality they're designed for the same purpose and should probably be treated 
as equals from safety perspective. 

I use a different front rack on each of my bikes the nitto 32f mini, the 
rawland rando, the vo one that uses canti mounts, and one slightly larger one 
made by racktime, a sub-brand of Tubus. The racktime one is probably the 
beefiest but I treat it no differently than the others, and in probably most 
confident in the nitto.

These racks are meant to carry odds and ends, conveniently. The most I ask of 
any of mine is to carry a six pack of cans on the way home, not a stack of 
newspapers or a full camping load. Those are jobs for cetmas, and the sadly 
discontinued haulin' Colin porteur rack. 

Maybe this would be a good time to being back the hobo bag?

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[RBW] Re: MIT Homer pre-order

[EasyRider]

I have an NFE and a Roscoe Road, which is not unlike the MIT Homer, I imagine. 
I love them both and they feel quite different to me. The BB drop of the Riv is 
very noticeable when I get underway and then the bike disappears under me. The 
NFE doesn't toodle as well as the roscoe. It seems to give back what I put into 
it. Both bikes are a lot of fun. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Re: Kids Stuff - What child seat fits what bike?

[EasyRider]

Paul, I think you're wise to borrow one first. These front seats tend to 
work best with large frames/top tubes. If you are about my size (PBH ~79), 
you may decide to wait for the Rosco Bebe or to get that trailer a little 
sooner. 

I can only speak to the iBert, but after installing one on my Trek 950, 
which I think has a top tube around 57-58cm, there was hardly any room left 
between the nose of the saddle and the backside of the iBert. (It wasn't a 
"tight squeeze" it was a "there's no way I could ever fit in there" kind of 
space, and I'm a trim 155 lbs.) I'd have needed to lower my saddle way down 
so that I could safely straddle the bike and plop my dude in the seat and 
buckle him in. And then I'd be riding around with knees splayed and legs 
never fully extended. This the problem that the Rosco Bebe would address by 
having a "legendarily long top tube" and swept back bars.

Pete
Arlington, VA

On Tuesday, July 24, 2018 at 11:19:55 AM UTC-4, Paul Clifton wrote:
>
> I know this topic comes up frequently. I've learned a lot from reading 
> previous threads, but with the impending BOSCO BEBE and an eight month old 
> who's anxious to get on a bike, I've got some decisions to make, and I'd 
> love some input.
>
> I'm pretty set on a front seat. It just seems like more fun. I'd love to 
> test a few seats out (front and back) before I buy anything, but I'm not 
> sure I have that option. Does anyone in the Atlanta area have a baby seat 
> or two I can test fit/test ride on a few different bikes? I'd really like 
> to test one of the Yepp models, but any seat I could try out would be 
> really helpful.
>
> My big question is, given my stable and the BOSCO BEBE, should I buy the 
> best seat for one of my current bikes, even if it's not the one I want, or 
> should I buy the seat I think I want, Yepp, mount it on a less than ideal 
> bike. Then shuffle the stable and the checkbook around till I get a bike 
> that works with the seat.
>
> I know the normal people answer is buy a seat for your current bike and 
> just ride, but I'm hoping to take lots of great rides over the next 2-3 
> years, so I can justify a dedicated bike/baby seat combo. I'm just not sure 
> what I want that to look like yet.
>
> Here's the bikes I've got that will work with a seat. Has anyone used a 
> front seat on any similar bikes? How'd it work out?
>
> 1. MTBUBBE - appears that the long head tube makes front seats less than 
> ideal. I'm not sure about the handling with an extra 20 lbs towards the 
> front.
>
> 2. 1984 Trek 720 - The frame is relatively light, but it rides well with a 
> load. The clamp spot for a front seat seems more reasonable, but it might 
> still be tight and the top tube is completely horizontal. I could try it 
> with riser bars instead of drops.
>
> 3. 1985 or so Peugeot MTB (Crazy Horse) - It's an 80s MTB. Super fun to 
> ride. No idea how the seat would fit and how it would handle. Any thoughts?
>
> 4. 90s Cannondale MTB - Pretty similar to the Peugeot, but nicer, newer 
> parts and a threadless stem.
>
> I'm not really interested in trailers right now, even though it's likely 
> that I'll use one eventually.
>
> Maybe a rear seat is the way to go?
> Does anyone have any tips on how to determine whether a front seat will 
> work well on a particular bike?
>
> My guess is that in the end this is all pretty child-dependent, and I 
> shouldn't sink to much time and money into this until I know that my child 
> like to ride bikes. So maybe I just need to experiment a little bit. How 
> would y'all solve this "problem".
>
> Paul in ATL
>
> P.S. Anyone selling a used child seat in good condition? I'm your market. 
> DM me.
>

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Re: [RBW] Ever tossed a tire because you couldn't find the culprit?

[EasyRider]

Thanks everyone. The stumper is that I do line up my valves and tire labels to 
better identify flats. It's just that the leak is incredibly slow And I just 
can't find it via submersion to help direct my search of the tire for the 
offending object. I do know that neither the originally punctured tube nor the 
replacement tube that went soft has a valve leak. That was my first guess and I 
stared at both valves under water for 5 minutes! That's when I thought, maybe 
there is a better way to spend my time ...

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[RBW] Ever tossed a tire because you couldn't find the culprit?

[EasyRider]

Got a slow leak in a Big Ben yesterday (1st in ~4,000 miles on this tire) and 
went about fixing it. Flats are rare for me so I take my time finding the 
cause. I thought I had - a tiny wire on the inside of the tire, which I plucked 
and then finished checking for any others. I used a new tube and remounted. But 
today it was soft again so the wire I pulled was likely only a decoy! Rim tape 
and wheel and valve hole had no signs of pokies, so submerged the tube. No 
apparent leak, so the hole must be very small. The culprit must be an embedded 
wire, I think, but I cannot find it. I ride on city streets so it's not a 
goathead. The Big Ben is pretty thick, so it could be wire that reveals itself 
like a cat's claw.

I'll try soaping the tube to find the hole and that should help narrow my 
search of the tire. But I'm tempted to just toss the tire and tube, since I've 
gotten my money's worth.

So, toss it or look harder? 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[EasyRider]

I see thought behind Crust designs. A (relatively) low q-factor fat bike? An 
aftermarket cargo fork  for 1" threaded steerers? These are unique, interesting 
products. 

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[RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[EasyRider]

Even if the bike isn't plus-tired if it's in the stepthru bubbe-Roadini price 
range I'll be tempted.

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[RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[EasyRider]

I missed the new rim hints! So I will stand by my original prediction of a plus 
tired capable 27.5 MB-1ish bike with a high by riv standards BB and longish 
chainstays.

And a suspension stem :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[EasyRider]

Good point about the rim availability. Just thinking about what would make for 
a "dedicated" mtb on Riv's terms. Perhaps it will simply be a MIT Hunq with 
longer chainstays. Isn't that a Clem, though? Maybe a threadless stem option, 
like the Roadeo? Seems doubtful.

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[RBW] Re: MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[EasyRider]

I'm probably reading too much into one word, but did I hear Grant use the 
phrase, "dedicated mountain bike"? it's intriguing to think of how such a bike 
would differ from a Hunq or a Clem. Maybe clearance for 650b plus tires - which 
aren't necessary or imho desirable for pavement riding -- would be the 
distinguishing feature. 

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Clicking noise -- About to lose my mind.

[EasyRider]

Anything can make a bike go click but for me it's usually one thing: the bottom 
bracket isn't snug enough. Grant mentioned this already and I concur. 

Almost every bike I've owned this has popped up, and usually right after I've 
installed the BB. I've even used a bit of teflon tape on really stubborn cases. 
A breaker bar helps to install snugly. Not so you can gorilla it, but so you 
can apply more force in a controlled manner.

The giveaway that's it's the bb is that the creak is intermittent and usually 
prompted by standing, either to mash up a hill or get underway from a stop. It 
goes away under easy pedaling/less torque. A loose crank arm is similar but it 
makes a creaking noise instead of a click.

Pete
Arlington, VA

 

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[RBW] MTB hints in yesterday's Blahg?

[EasyRider]

My guess is a MIT 1x MB-1ish 27.5 plus Riv. A slightly higher bb. Grant has 
said that if you need bigger than 2 inch tire to get a pugsley and a dozen 
years the reader mentioned that bike favorably. Hard to imagine a Riv fatbike 
though ... discs and all.

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[RBW] Re: Cycling around Downtown Washington DC...

[EasyRider]

René, I'm local and work downtown. I'd suggest you ride the length of the 
national mall one morning (both sides), and around the Tidal Basin and East 
Potomac Park another. An out and back trip to Chain Bridge might make a 
good third trip if you have a little more time and bring your bike. Head 
down to the Lincoln Memorial and then go past the Kennedy Center and 
Watergate complex. You'll then pass through Georgetown Waterfront park and 
and beyond that is the C Canal towpath. Take that up to Chain Bridge and 
take the ramp up to the path along the sidewalk  -- it's a very scenic 
setting, just a couple miles from the city.

Pete
Arlington, VA

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 12:14:57 PM UTC-4, René wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm going to go to Washington DC for 5 days next week for a meeting, and 
> was wondering if it's worth bringing my Bike Friday with me to get some 
> nice early morning rides. I'll be staying at the Renaissance Hotel 
> Downtown, and all rides would have to start/finish at the hotel, although I 
> could get an Uber to go somewhere and put the bike in the trunk as an 
> option as well.
>
> What do the locals recommend? Any nice rides, not in the middle of traffic 
> that would be worth doing? Any riding trails in the area worth exploring? 
> Most of my potential rides would likely be 60-90 minutes long at most.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions and recommendations,
>
> René 
>

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[RBW] Quickbeam vs Roadeo/Legolas

[EasyRider]

Your description of the similarities between the Quickbeam and Atlantis makes 
me wonder if my Bubbe road is in the same neighborhood, as it was designed 
around a SmpleOne fork and prob has stouter tubing than the Quickbeam. It's 
Quickbeam genes were a major reason I bought it. It's not "lively" but it's not 
a slug at all!

Pete
Arlington, VA

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[RBW] Seen on My Instagram: My new 57cm Legolas Frameset

[EasyRider]

The coral and amethyst smoke colors of these two bikes are great together! 
Which one is Tubbs and which one is Crockett?

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[RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[EasyRider]

This horror?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horror_vacui

On Tuesday, March 27, 2018 at 6:02:53 PM UTC-4, Reid Ewing wrote:
>
> With the rear wheel spacing seen in Grant's photo, looks like the Riv 
> traditional wine cork fender spacer is not going to work. Horrors! What 
> will we do?
>
> Reid
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[EasyRider]

Is that common with tandems or cargo bikes?

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[RBW] Re: Lower price Atlantis!

[EasyRider]

So, about these long chainstays ... I kinda like the kinda long ones on my 
Bubbe road. They feel good. Somewhere on the Blug talks about how they make 
smaller bikes ride like medium sized bikes.

Maybe one of the reasons they're getting longer is weight distribution -- 
because more and more Rivs are set up with swept back bars and designed for a 
more upright riding position? I'm curious about TT lengths for the new Atlantis 
... still suited for drops, or longer like the Appaloosa?

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[RBW] David Lance Goines Riv Bike Poster

[EasyRider]

04

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[RBW] Re: PSA: crust 1in threaded disc forks

[EasyRider]

I'm interested in this fork for my old Trek 950 and any future Riv that 
might join the stable, but the Crust fork has a 220mm steerer tube, and my 
Trek's headtube, like me, is pretty short. Are there "rules" for how long 
is too long a steerer?

FWIW, I don't think I'd go to the trouble of cutting it down and having new 
threads cut, since that'd get me close to a custom fork in price.

On Thursday, March 15, 2018 at 9:07:42 PM UTC-4, Drw wrote:
>
> So crust bikes just put up a few 1in threaded disc forks on their site for 
> 195$. Rather than stocking up on increasingly obsolete cantis or wide 650b 
> rim brake rims, I bought one. I know it’s possibly un-rivvish, but IF I 
> have to use it, it’ll go on my atlantis 

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Re: [RBW] Goldilocks drop bar brake lever?

[EasyRider]

Thanks Tim. I'm using the cane creeks on a short reach soma highway 1 bar so 
these tektros would prob work ok.

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[RBW] Re: Goldilocks drop bar brake lever?

[EasyRider]

Thanks, the hoods, yes. I'll give the tape trick a try on the Tiagras.

On Monday, March 12, 2018 at 9:42:18 PM UTC-4, sameness wrote:
>
> If you're talking about the levers themselves, my possibly faulty 
> remembrance of the earlier SRAM Rival levers puts 'em somewhere in the 
> middle of those two, but I've never measured.
>
> If we're talking about the hoods, I've added an extra wrap or two of bar 
> tape underneath to beef 'em up a bit, so maybe try this with the Tiagras?
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>
> On Monday, March 12, 2018 at 5:58:27 PM UTC-7, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> My Tiagras are a bit too narrow, my Cane Creek SCR-5s are too wide. Is 
>> there an in between I could try? 
>>
>> Pete
>>
>

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[RBW] Goldilocks drop bar brake lever?

[EasyRider]

My Tiagras are a bit too narrow, my Cane Creek SCR-5s are too wide. Is there an 
in between I could try? 

Pete

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Re: [RBW] How avoid sore throats from riding in cold weather?

[EasyRider]

Patrick, for me the benefit of the Neti pot is that it clears out my nasal 
passage so excess "stuff" isn't slowly draining. It also seems to head off 
stuffy ears. Generally, it makes me feel better. You'll want to use distilled 
or boiled water and a saline solution or it will sting a bit and could 
introduce pathogens.

I had a cold a few weeks back and noticed that if I drank a cold glass of water 
or Gatorade, my throats would hurt almost immediately, and/or I would cough 
right away. I googled it, and What I read was, cold irritates the mucus lining 
of the throat, makes it shrink, and makes the throat more vulnerable to 
irritants and pathogens. 

I too avoid antihistamines. Perhaps sipping warm water or honey tea while 
riding, or sucking a lozenge, might help counteract the effect of cold air?

-Pete

(I've ocassionally posted my first name before. When I joined the list I didn't 
realize it was the norm.)

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[RBW] How avoid sore throats from riding in cold weather?

[EasyRider]

I find using a Neti pot helps with ear nose and throat ailments. My sore 
throats are usually related to post nasal drip and a saline rinse helps clear 
me out. Absolutely essential for my seasonal allergies too, as it helps rinse 
away pollen. 

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr build "done"

[EasyRider]

Nicely done, I'd have set mine up the same way. Moustache bars are a 
practical choice for a singlespeed. Looks like plenty of room for a frame 
pump behind the seat tube? Be sure to post pictures with the bars wrapped. 

On Tuesday, February 20, 2018 at 8:24:18 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/PJGnXh1e68QPzoXq2
>
> Only thing missing in this photo are the bars I've now wrapped. Might swap 
> for a different seatpost/pedals and attempt fenders one more time, but 
> otherwise complete.
>

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[RBW] New Bike Day!

[EasyRider]

Great job, it looks fantastic.

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Re: [RBW] It’s all about the power: Handlebar height/body position

[EasyRider]

Agree that having multiple hand positions -- including an upright one -- is 
the key to comfort across a range of riding conditions. That said -- higher 
handlebars ARE more comfortable ... IF ones power output isn't very great, 
or must be moderated to suit conditions like riding in stop and go city 
traffic.

On Monday, February 12, 2018 at 1:15:24 PM UTC-5, George Schick wrote:
>
> Amen.  These are some the main reasons why I always have had drop bars on 
> my road bikes.  The body position while pedaling seems to let you put you 
> back into the pedal stroke as well as the legs.  Plus, as you say, there is 
> the versatility of having multiple hand positions on the bars.
>
> On Monday, February 12, 2018 at 12:02:42 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> The effect of the hip-to-torso angle on power or ability to produce 
>> torque is one very big reason I prefer drop bars, with their variety of 
>> hand positions which in turn allow a variety of torso angles. It's also why 
>> I like my Flites (original model) with their long body that gives a 
>> comfortable platform (for my ass, anyway), from waaay back while grinding 
>> up a hill to "on the rivet" for trying to keep up with a tailwind.
>>
>> I really noticed the effect of bending over on power when I started 
>> riding fixed pretty exclusively; turn into a headwind or come to a long 
>> rise, and you can't (obviously) gear down; you have to increase power. And 
>> "falling" into the hooks naturally gives you that little bit of additional 
>> power, as does shoving back in the saddle and bending your elbows if you 
>> are riding on the ramps. I daresay that the Albastache allows you to do the 
>> same.
>>
>> My own personal favorite bar for this sort of variety is the Maes 
>> Parallel -- shallowish drop but long ramps.
>>
>> "Tuck until you stand." That fits my experience.
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 10:04 AM, Deacon Patrick  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Jan’s exploration of cycling myth #5, higher handlebars are more 
>>> comfortable, sure matches my experience single speeding (free or fixed), 
>>> where changing positions relates to only one thing because there is only 
>>> one gear: power output. On steep climbs, I tuck until I stand. Otherwise, 
>>> upright is fine.
>>>
>>> https://janheine.wordpress.com/2018/02/12/myth-5-an-upright-position-is-more-comfortable/
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> www.CredoFamily.org
>>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>>
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>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>> *
>> ***
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Design your custom

[EasyRider]

I just realized my "custom" is actually a stock 52cm cantilever Hilsen with 
a custom color. Perhaps a Pear Green, then.

On Wednesday, February 7, 2018 at 12:36:24 PM UTC-5, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Same here, 650b Roadeo with clearance for 38 with fenders. I'm 5'7" and 
> have a couple 700c bikes, (RB-T and rosco road, both 53cm). Toe overlap 
> doesn't bother me that much, but the frame would prob be easier to design, 
> the triangle could fit bottles and a pump more easily, and it'd look more 
> proportional, I think. It's a custom, looks are important :)

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[RBW] Re: Design your custom

[EasyRider]

Same here, 650b Roadeo with clearance for 38 with fenders. I'm 5'7" and have a 
couple 700c bikes, (RB-T and rosco road, both 53cm). Toe overlap doesn't bother 
me that much, but the frame would prob be easier to design, the triangle could 
fit bottles and a pump more easily, and it'd look more proportional, I think. 
It's a custom, looks are important :)

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[RBW] Re: What type of bike would make you buy another riv

[EasyRider]

For me to buy another Riv? I don't know what it would look like, but it'd 
be an oddball like my 53cm Rosco road.

I like the Rosco origin story, and the creativity behind it. It certainly 
helped sell me on the bike, no doubt. (The tire clearance, semi-horizontal 
drops, price, and tall headtube did as well.)

I think my bike's origin story went something like this? "Here's a leftover 
fork that was made for a six footer's bike we don't sell anymore. Use it 
design a bike for someone five inches shorter and have fun while you're at 
it."

Pete

On Saturday, February 3, 2018 at 3:21:26 AM UTC-5, drew wrote:
>
> It’s late and I’ve been inspired by lum gim fongs Willy nilly topic 
> creation.  I’ve owned 2 sams,  a hunq, Clem and Atlantis. Down to just an 
> Atlantis now and pretty happy. I’ve been thinking about what kind of model 
> would get me to buy a new rivendell again. So I pose the same question to 
> you all. (Let’s eliminate the things they won’t do, like low trail and disc 
> brakes) 
>
> For me, it’d be a Roadini with clearances for 
> 2.1 tires or a canti cheviot. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

[EasyRider]

Kinda surprising that more people haven't done as William, and had disc mounts 
added their Atlantis, Hunq, Sam, etc., What would it cost, a few hundred? Plus 
repaint? Or maybe get Waterford to make a disc fork? I'd guess that'd be 
400-500. Anyway, a lot less than buying a new disc Riv, were one to exist.

Pete

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[RBW] Re: Who wants a Hunqadiscer?

[EasyRider]

If Riv did a Scapegoat-ish plus bike, that'd be a disc bike, wouldn't it? I 
think so, for practical reasons and intended use. The Hubbuh tandem has a disc 
mount for a drag brake, so it's not like Riv is morally opposed to the 
technology. 

FWIW, I get one finger braking with good modulation using Paul touring cantis 
and non aero diacompe gran compe levers on moustache bars. The difference in 
pivot point compared to aero levers seems to make a big difference. I think the 
setup is handsome as all get out and it makes me want to ride the bike.

I like all bike parts but IMHO, rim brakes are among the nicest to look at. Is 
there an attractive disc caliper out there that would look good with lugs?

Pete

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[RBW] Re: Who rides an off-roadish Sam?

[EasyRider]

Gotta see a pic of that Bubbe, please!

On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:19:22 AM UTC-5, It's me Ryan wrote:
>
> I just shoved the 50 Cazaderos in my bronze Rosco Bubbe coming from the 
> from the 42's...its so sick!
>
> @neil - get the 42 Cazaderos. 100%.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Are you using your real name on here?

[EasyRider]

Yup, it's more in my head than anything else.

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 4:00:12 PM UTC-5, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> To each their own. The reality is that you use your first.last name@gmail 
> email address to send to the group which can be obtained fairly easily. And 
> the people who are really profiting off of linking up all that information 
> already are doing so by using their servers and services.
>
> -J
>
> On Feb 1, 2018, 12:57 PM -0800, EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com 
> >, wrote:
>
> Hi Norman, I'd just rather limit the ability of strangers to link 
> information gleaned from my random bloviations in a google group to other 
> little bits and scraps of information about me from elsewhere.
>
> On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 2:42:00 PM UTC-5, Norman Bone wrote: 
>>
>> ER-
>> I'm honestly curious. An 'easy target' for what? I'm having a hard time 
>> imagining harm coming from what I post here.
>>
>> Thanks-
>> -Norman 'Mostly a good apple' Bone in Portland, OR
>>
>>
>> --
>> *From:* EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com>
>> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, February 1, 2018 11:17 AM
>> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Are you using your real name on here?
>>
>> I'd like to use my actual name but this isn't a 1990s listserv, it's a 
>> publicly searchable group. I'm not famous, or a public figure, or a 
>> teacher. I'd just rather not be an easy target for bad apples with basic 
>> keyword search abilities. That's why I "hide" behind a handle, not because 
>> I want to be an anonymous jerk to other RBW owners here.
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 8:34:38 PM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote: 
>>
>> My middle school students Google my name all the time—like, constantly. 
>> They don’t need to be able to find anything else. Hence the last initial. 
>>
>>
>> Bob K. in Baltimore
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Are you using your real name on here?

[EasyRider]

Hi Norman, I'd just rather limit the ability of strangers to link 
information gleaned from my random bloviations in a google group to other 
little bits and scraps of information about me from elsewhere. 

On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 2:42:00 PM UTC-5, Norman Bone wrote:
>
> ER-
> I'm honestly curious. An 'easy target' for what? I'm having a hard time 
> imagining harm coming from what I post here.
>
> Thanks-
> -Norman 'Mostly a good apple' Bone in Portland, OR
>
>
> ------
> *From:* EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com >
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch <rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > 
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 1, 2018 11:17 AM
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Are you using your real name on here?
>
> I'd like to use my actual name but this isn't a 1990s listserv, it's a 
> publicly searchable group. I'm not famous, or a public figure, or a 
> teacher. I'd just rather not be an easy target for bad apples with basic 
> keyword search abilities. That's why I "hide" behind a handle, not because 
> I want to be an anonymous jerk to other RBW owners here.
>
> On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 8:34:38 PM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote:
>
> My middle school students Google my name all the time—like, constantly. 
> They don’t need to be able to find anything else. Hence the last initial. 
>
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore
>
> -- 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Are you using your real name on here?

[EasyRider]

I'd like to use my actual name but this isn't a 1990s listserv, it's a 
publicly searchable group. I'm not famous, or a public figure, or a 
teacher. I'd just rather not be an easy target for bad apples with basic 
keyword search abilities. That's why I "hide" behind a handle, not because 
I want to be an anonymous jerk to other RBW owners here.

On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 8:34:38 PM UTC-5, Bob K. wrote:
>
> My middle school students Google my name all the time—like, constantly. 
> They don’t need to be able to find anything else. Hence the last initial. 
>
> Bob K. in Baltimore

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[RBW] Re: Who rides an off-roadish Sam?

[EasyRider]

I don't have a Sam, but that picture of Roman's bike definitely nudged me 
toward getting the bronze Rosco Bubbe road last year. I currently run 
700x42 Cazaderos and like them just fine. I also considered the Simworks 
Homage and WTB Resolute (42) and the WTB Nano and Schwalbe Smart Sam (40). 
So many tires to choose from these days.


On Thursday, February 1, 2018 at 11:57:03 AM UTC-5, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> Good stuff!
>
> Deacon - I would love to try Jan's knobbies, but I think there is too much 
> pavement in my world for a high-end knobbie. Based on my experience with 
> Compass tires, they would wear too quickly.
>
> I've always wanted to try Rock n Roads, but have always heard that they 
> wear quickly and are loud/slow on roads. They sure look fun for the mud, 
> tho!
>
> RJM - the Chumba Terlingua has been on my radar, and wow! Custom steel for 
> $1,500 sounds like a steal! I've also been ogling the All City Cosmic 
> Stallion, and the Ibis Hakka MX. Of the three, I think I favor the 
> Stallion. 
>

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[RBW] My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[EasyRider]

I love my albatross bars but the key for me is 

1: a long stem to let me lean forward, a little less than I would riding the 
hoods of a drop bar

2: using them for stop and go downtown commuting at a slow to moderate pace, 
and grocery getting. They are called cruiser bars for a reason.

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[RBW] Re: Fenderless Sam: Snoqualmie or Barlow Pass?

[EasyRider]

That is weird. Is it a typo? 

Barlow gets my vote, assuming it actually is lighter.

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse "went to go-fast 700c rando machines many years ago for a good reason"?

[EasyRider]

The only bike I'm sure has "planed" for me was a 1977 Raleigh Grand Prix, 
and that was about 10 years before I heard the term. I had built it up as a 
fixed gear and I was surprised how light it was, being hi-tensile steel. 
Alas, it was a tad long for me in the top tube, and the bottom bracket was 
very fussy, so I traded it a month later. I think the tubing diameter was 
the relevant metric. It used standard tubes and I was probably only 150lbs 
back then.

On Tuesday, December 19, 2017 at 3:57:50 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> What does the flexing actually feel like?
>
> I have ridden a Bleriot, Sam, and Rambouillet.
>
> When I am fit, they all feel fast.
> When I am not, sometimes the Sam and Bleriot felt like I could not get out 
> of my own way on hills.
> With the Rambouillet, I feel like the pedals are easier to turn. Like they 
> are cooperating. Even on hills, they are responsive to the stroke, even 
> when going plodding slow uphill. Just easier to turn the pedals. All almost 
> identical builds and fit setups.
>
> Also, I have ridden with people who rode 531 and asked them if they felt 
> planing and they said no.
>
> I think butting length also effects the planing.
> Also tire pressures/widths.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Frank Jones Sr details

[EasyRider]

I like the look, especially in combination with the custom lugs of the Frank, 
but at only $50 it does raise the what's wrong with it question. 

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[RBW] Re: How do you like your Catalyst pedals?

[EasyRider]

I'm not quite ready to give these a go, though I'm sure I'd dig them. For 
the time being, I'm a little more curious about their antecedents. Most of 
my favorite things about my bikes, much of which I learned about via 
Rivendell, are "old" innovations. Were pedals like the Catalyst around 
before, and fall out of favor?

On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 11:26:26 AM UTC-5, Palmer wrote:
>
> Hi Jon,
> I had grip kings a few years ago and did not like them when wet in the 
> least. Th ecatalyst are much better even when dry.
> Tom Palmer
> Twin Lake, MI
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 10:27:17 AM UTC-5, Jon Dukeman,central 
> Colorado wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone switched from MKS Grip King to Catalyst?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Found Upright riding worse than drops riding.

[EasyRider]

It's probably just me, but I find that if I'm going to go more than a mile 
without a turn (i.e., not commuting) I'd prefer drops. After 20 minutes, 
the muscles loosen up and I get to feeling bottled up and unsprung without 
drops. But if I'm turning a lot, or dealing with traffic, I'd rather ride 
moustache or Albatross bars, for visibility and stop and go comfort. Plus 
they play nice with a front basket. And if I'm dragging a child trailer or 
Weehoo, Albas all the way for leverage. That said, I do use a 130mm stem 
with my Alabatross bars, so I'm upright, but not bolt upright like a 
bikeshare bike.

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 7:13:31 PM UTC-5, truegolden wrote:
>
> I find this to be an interesting and helpful thread. 
>
> Thanks for starting it Lum. 
>
> I have switched all 5 of my bikes to upright bars and for most rides 
> prefer them. 
>
> Occasionally, I want to push myself a little and wish for a more aero 
> position. 
> I will probably switch one bike back to Nitto Noodle bars for rides I 
> wish to push myself a bit more. 
>
> That's primarily because even though an old dude now, I occasionally get 
> in a competitive mindset 
> and try to surprise someone half my age who is probably on a 'wonder' 
> bike 8 to 10 or more pounds lighter or 
> at least make then work for dropping me and 'wonder' about an old white 
> bearded guy riding a 25 to 27 pound old steel bike 
> hanging with them for a while. 
>
> I also ride with my wife quite a bit and we only average 9 or 10 mph 
> when riding together and the upright bars work well for me on these rides. 
>
> Late spring or early summer, I forget, I did one 100k ride (although was 
> only planning for 30 to 40 miles) 
> by myself on an upright bar bike and my back side was more of an issue 
> than the hands at the end of the ride. 
> It was one of those days everything, bike, body, weather, traffic, etc 
> seemed to be clicking and I just kept going until I had had enough. 
> I think the vintage Univega bike for that ride had  Soma Sparrow bars on 
> it. 
>
> One thing that I learned early on was to move hand positions often 
> whichever bars on the bike. 
>
> Like Grant said 'different strokes' type of thing and also the' fun' 
> factor on the upright bars. 
> I seem to get more serious when on a drop bar bike. 
> I'm glad a well designed bike frame lends itself to a variety of 
> configurations. 
>
> It's fun for me to continue experimenting and learning from folks like 
> on this list. 
> Although I am not experimenting quite as much as one of my good friends 
> who I think has tried about every upright bar out there. 
> I kid about him changing bars like some folks change their shirts. 
> It sure helps to be able to do your own wrenching. 
>
> Safer pedaling everyone, 
> Paul in Dallas 
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. 
> http://www.avg.com 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

Thanks for the info. I had assumed that the 130 hub had a wider shell and 
chainline. Sounds like it wouldn't help my situation.


On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 3:32:16 PM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> The Surly hub came/does come in 130mm and 120mm OLN's but I think they 
> both share the same hubshell, so both would have the same chainline.  The 
> 130mm just has a longer axle.  In any case, my Casseroll wasn't a stock 
> build, it used a variety of track hubs in back, including a Dura-Ace and a 
> Phil Wood that I had sent to Phil to respace from 120mm or 126mm out to 
> 130mm.  They all had a 42mm chainline, which is the 120mm track hub 
> standard.  
>
> Nevertheless, it does sound like frames differ a lot here: chainstay 
> diameter, how closely to the center of the BB shell the chainstays attach, 
> chainstay bends/dimples, and chainstay length can all help or hurt 
> clearance here.  
>
> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 8:58:23 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring 
>> is likely going depend the frame.
>>
>> I used a 120mm hub with spacers in a 1988 Trek frame that probably had 
>> 126mm dropouts, but a 40t was as big as I could go. But that makes sense; 
>> the bike was originally spec'd with a 40t inner ring on a double. It wasn't 
>> designed for someone to easily convert to singlespeed 15 years later.
>>
>> The Casseroll on the other hand, was. The stock singlespeed version used 
>> a 130mm Surly hub. I assume that hub, and some thoughtful chainstay design 
>> explains how they were able to get a 48t ring on it. 
>> http://salsacycles.com/files/pages/Casseroll_Single.pdf
>>
>>
>> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 10:57:39 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>>>
>>> I guess it depends on the frame but I think the concern about chainring 
>>> clearance on a 130mm spaced frame is overstated.  I used to run a Salsa 
>>> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing.  A 42t chainring 
>>> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any 
>>> clearance issues.  
>>>
>>> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
>>>>
>>>> I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking 
>>>> as you and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
>>>>
>>>> But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. 
>>>> If you plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with 
>>>> chainstay clearance.
>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring is 
likely going depend the frame.

I used a 120mm hub with spacers in a 1988 Trek frame that probably had 
126mm dropouts, but a 40t was as big as I could go. But that makes sense; 
the bike was originally spec'd with a 40t inner ring on a double. It wasn't 
designed for someone to easily convert to singlespeed 15 years later.

The Casseroll on the other hand, was. The stock singlespeed version used a 
130mm Surly hub. I assume that hub, and some thoughtful chainstay design 
explains how they were able to get a 48t ring on it. 
http://salsacycles.com/files/pages/Casseroll_Single.pdf


On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 10:57:39 AM UTC-5, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> I guess it depends on the frame but I think the concern about chainring 
> clearance on a 130mm spaced frame is overstated.  I used to run a Salsa 
> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing.  A 42t chainring 
> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any 
> clearance issues.  
>
> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
>>
>> I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking as 
>> you and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
>>
>> But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. 
>> If you plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with 
>> chainstay clearance.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?

I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking as you 
and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.

But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. If you 
plan to use say, a 42 or 44 chainring you might have trouble with chainstay 
clearance.

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam wheelset

[EasyRider]

I've used a 120 fixed gear hub in a 130mm frame -- axle spacers will do the 
trick. Way back when I bought a wheelset from Sheldon with those spacers, 
and put them in an old Trek 330 frame.

Whether the chainline is "off" kind of depends on your ideal chainring/cog 
combination. Frames spaced for 130 hubs have wider chainstays, which can 
limit the size of the chainring that can be used while achieving good 
chainline. In my case, the largest gear I could use was a 40x15 -- anything 
bigger than a 40 tooth ring would hit the chainstay.

On Thursday, December 7, 2017 at 9:49:32 AM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
> I am not home but I was hoping someone could help..
> I got a wheelset off here, I was told it came from the quickbeam complete 
> - it's suzue hubs laced to araya.
>
> the hub is 120mm spaced in the rear, right? Is it possible to make it 
> 130mm? I'd rather use it in a 130mm spaced frame (but does that mean 
> chainline will be off?)
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Canvas vest recs?

[EasyRider]

Yep, you both seem to know what I'm after. The disintegrating vest has zip off 
arms, but they are too short for on the bike so I took them off years ago. It 
an old Illuminite vest; the part that is breaking up is some sort of white 
layer between inner mesh and outer nylon. The cut is great though - baggy 
enough to layer off thick sweaters and pullovers and breathe, but with a 
drawstring waist. 

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[RBW] Re: Canvas vest recs?

[EasyRider]

Patrick thanks for the suggestions. Garth - yes, a full collar, something meant 
to be an outer layer.

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[RBW] Canvas vest recs?

[EasyRider]

I'm in the market for a new vest for commuting (and 1-2 hour rides). My last 
vest was a synthetic kinda breathable number with a liner that has started to 
disintegrate, leaving bits of plastic on my inner layers. For that reason I'd 
to replace it with something like waxed cotton. 

I've read Patrick's praise for hilltrek ventile but it's not in the budget for 
now. What I'm looking for is a waxed cotton vest, but more like a shell - no 
liner. I tend to wear a baselayer, a light sweater or synthetic pullover, and a 
vest for blocking wind, while remaining breathable during exertion. I'd like 
one with a collar. Anyone have a recommendation?

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Re: [RBW] Re: "We’ll have “classic” single speed frames again...."

[EasyRider]

The long horizontal dropouts on my 53cm Rosco Bubbe road were a big reason 
I bought it. Some day I'll reinvent it as a single speed. It's a 1x8 now, 
and replaced an old Trek 330 road bike I had converted to fixed/free 12 
years earlier.

But even with horizontal dropouts it's a compromise as a singlespeed frame. 
The rear dropouts are 130mm, not 120mm, and because the frame can accept a 
large tire (700x42) the tricky part is chainring selection. I'd guess that 
40t or 42t is the biggest the bike could use while clearing the chainstay, 
achieving good chainline, and keeping the q-factor comfortable for me. On 
the other hand, a dedicated 120mm frame would allow larger chainrings. Not 
that I need 'em!


On Friday, November 10, 2017 at 12:21:51 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> The best rear fork end for ss or fixed is the long horizontal, sloped so 
> that your rear brake pads (if you use a rear caliper) remain more or less 
> aligned with the rim when you move the wheel back and forth. 
>
> I'd much rather have track ends on a ss/fixed frame than verticals, but 
> I'd much rather have long horizontals than track ends.
>
> Rivendell, please take note!
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clicking Brooks sprung saddle question

[EasyRider]

If memory serves, my Brooks Flyer has two pairs of rails, leading from the 
top and bottom of each spring to the nose of the saddle. I want to remember 
that they come close to touching near the nose, and in my case, rubbed 
against one another while pedaling. I wiped some bearing grease on the 
rails in those places places and it went away. My memory could be faulty, 
but if you see rub marks on the rails near the nose, that's where I'd put a 
little bit of grease.


On Monday, September 11, 2017 at 6:46:44 PM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Brand new, maybe 100 miles on it. Flyer Imperial.
>
> Love it, but it has started clicking. Not squeaking, like we often hear 
> reported.
>
> One click per pedal stroke.
>
> Can be recreated by grabbing the back of the saddle with thumb on top and 
> fingers under the springs and squeezing.
>
> One click per squeeze. Feels solid though, not like something is loose.
>
> I guess I will lube any metal parts of the frame that look like they touch 
> each other and see if that does it.
>
> *Anyone had this before with their sprung Brooks?*
> *Fixes?*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your 
pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components 
website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package, 
well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces, 
I would email Paul and ask what length button head hex bolt to get from the 
hardware store. I'd take the brake and the problem solver nut to ensure I 
got the right threading and that the head of the bolt didn't protrude and 
interfere with the movement of the brake arms. Or, just ask Paul to buy the 
part (I don't see the replacements for the recessed version on the website, 
just the ones for converting recessed to non-recessed.) Good luck. 


On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 7:03:30 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>
> Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together right. 
>  And may be missing hardware.

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

Ok, I think I might have the answer here. 

I think you may be under the impression that the recessed nut, and bolt in that 
product shot are one piece -- one bolt that threads directly into the brake 
arms from the rear of the fork. That is not the case. The wide, unthreaded 
portion of what you are calling "a bolt" is actually a recessed nut. The 
product photo just shows it threaded on. The Sheldon but replaces that nut, on 
a Paul racer or any other brake. If your frame is not drilled to accept a 
recessed nut, you can buy non-recessed versions of the racer. You don't have to 
modify it yourself. And if you buy a non recessed version, there's prob no need 
for a Sheldon nut.

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

Your photos did not load properly, please repost them. 

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>
> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>
> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The 
> head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with 
> the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that 
> there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note 
> that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider 
> so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 
> picture below.
>
>
> 
>
> Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the 
> photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes 
> operation.
>
>
>
> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
> brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>
>
> The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt 
> kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At 
> $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the 
> local hardware store.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>
>> As others have said, it works.  These brakes are exactly like any other 
>> brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.
>
>

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[RBW] Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

I don't see why not? Sheldon fender nuts are designed to replace the recessed 
nut on caliper brakes that use that style. Paul Racers also come in a non 
recessed version, if that helps.

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[RBW] Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

Paul Racers are available in a non-recessed version (nutted) and that is 
probably what you want if you need to used a Sheldon fender nut. There are 
pictures of the non-recessed brake on the Paul site.

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[RBW] Re: Can anyone provide a link to the Rivendell article on trail?

[EasyRider]

Someday, I hope to hear Grant's thoughts regarding handlebar height and 
trail, alluded to in that article.

*Most of our bikes have trail numbers in the high 50s to low 60s. Combined 
with a high handlebar---which I think affects steering a lot, but I'm not 
going into that here---the result are bikes that, for better or worse, but 
I hope better, ride just the way I want 'em too.*

Handlebar height is probably the most important bike 'measurement' (read: 
high enough) for me. I can make some guesses about high handlebars send 
weight distribution rearward, and that combined with the "quicker" steering 
of a low trail fork, might lead to a "vague" handling sensation. But it's 
just guessing on my part.

On Tuesday, September 5, 2017 at 11:54:56 AM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Thanks, all. Got it.
>
> On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 2:43 AM, Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> This one: Trail, Wheelbase and Considerations; cited in Mountain Bikes 
>> and that word “Trail”;
>>
>> http://www.44bikes.com/mountain-bikes-and-that-word-trail/
>>
>> I think the article has been cited elsewhere too, but the link is dead, 
>> probably because Grant doesn't want to get involved in trail fights. But 
>> I'd like to read it, and I promise I won't fight.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>>
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
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>> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
>>
>> 
>> Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania? 
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
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> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Medium Mountain Mixtes -- coming any day now

[EasyRider]

AFAIK, this is a second run of the blue Rosco Bubbe step-thrus. They use 
650b wheels and the Appaloosa fork.

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:46:31 AM UTC-4, Mike Williams wrote:
>
> Anyone have any geo info on the mountain mixtes?   Sizes?  What wheel size 
> corresponds with bike size?   I cant find much?   Thanks!   -Mike
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 25, 2017, at 7:49 AM, Paul Clifton  > wrote:
>
> ETD of Tuesday for me! But it'll probably take through the weekend to 
> build it.
>
> 3x8 or 9 with Shimano Barends. I only have a 9 speed cassette around, so 
> it's either 8 speed index, or 9 speed friction. I haven't had index 
> shifting in so long that I'm tempted, but I'm about to put brifters on my 
> Boulder, so that'll probably scratch that itch. No plans for fenders at the 
> moment because I want to max out the tires for a super cushy ride. If Riv 
> had offered the basketball tire in 650x2.0" about a week earlier, I'd have 
> bought them, but for now it's the 1.9" Gravel Kings. I think it'll take up 
> to 2.2", but I couldn't find anything that fat without pretty aggressive 
> treads.
>
> The real question, though, is where to shred first!
> I'm excited to see the first 200 miles you put on yours Bill. Do you 
> already have a route picked out?
>
> Paul in ATL
>
> On Thursday, August 24, 2017 at 7:47:37 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I'm eagerly anticipating the arrival of a Medium Mountain Mixte.  I need 
>> it for my 10x200mile challenge.  The BLUG revealed that it will have an 
>> all-time Rivendell first:  for the first time ever, there will be a stock 
>> Rivendell with an ARCHED seatstay bridge.  That'll clearly make us much 
>> faster.  Haha.  OK, it's not a performance thing, but it should make fender 
>> setup look really nice.  We'll see how that turns out.  I've got a 3x8 
>> drivetrain ready to go for mine, but in my morning ride meditations, I 
>> started musing about using a 2x10 drivetrain instead.  I'm still leaning 
>> towards the 3x8, but it will be a build-day decision.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for GPS computers?

[EasyRider]

I have used the free version of Cyclemeter and I like it, but using any GPS 
app drains my iphone battery in a hurry. In cold weather, the phone dies 
after a few miles.

I don't care about stats while I'm riding, but it's nice to record a gpx 
file of longer rides, as a sort of souvenir. I have an Garmin etrex 
handheld unit that I use for hiking and backpacking and have started using 
it on the bike that way, passively. 

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[RBW] Re: The Bosque in the "monsoon"

[EasyRider]

Patrick, your mention of "bosque" has me pulling a favorite book from the 
shelf to look up the term. It's called *Home Ground: Language for an 
American Landscape*.

On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 5:13:42 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> 22 mile dirt ride today in the Corrales bosque -- Corrales is a village at 
> the north end of Albuquerque, with a pleasant mix of the remnants of old 
> Hispanic peasant agriculture and small scale ranching, and gentrified 
> residences, and not as pleasant but still pleasant considering 
> neo-retro-Hispano-village-McMansion living. You still see much real adobe 
> and lots more pseudo adobe.
>
> Anyway, upper 80s, mile high blue sky, puffy clouds, no more rain until, 
> perhaps, early next week -- this after a downpour on Monday. Much of the 
> ground wetted and dried, and so the sand is less deep.
>
> Corrales acequia roads, about 1/2 mile west of River and up to 12 miles 
> north of Alameda Boulevard.
>
> Met a couple riding horses and leading one being trained and still 
> skittish; I pulled off in advance of the meeting and waved them through, 
> and they pleasantly thanked me. Most equestrians are friendly, ordinary 
> folk, though you get some self-entitled assholes (makes me dream of 
> screaming, blowing a loud horn, and beating a tin kettle while setting off 
> fireworks as their horses go by, but I won't do that, I promise). 
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
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> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
> *Interested in trading resume, LinkedIn, and other writing work for 
> professional (professional) help with marketing and growing my resumes, 
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>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: D2R2 2017

[EasyRider]

Finally! A picture of a built-up Red Roscoe! More?

On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 10:02:21 AM UTC-4, Eli Queen wrote:
>
> I'll be riding the 100k w/ a few friends. Should be a great weekend to get 
> out of the city, do some camping ... I really can't wait. My 5 year old 
> won't be coming along though (She'd probably try to talk me into towing her 
> on her trail-a-bike the whole way :)
>
> For any of you how've done it in the past: I'm trying to decide if I can 
> ride my Albatross-ed Rosco (see attached), or if I should do it on a Cross 
> Check that I have. Maybe put some 40mm Gravel King SK tires on the Rosco? 
>  Any input form the group would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
> Eli
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rambling Interview with Grant: Trail, Women's bikes, Low gearing, Current Reading, Etc

[EasyRider]

I don't know what Riv's word is, but I think what's been suggested so far are 
probably all aspects of a comprehensive X factor. Longer chain stays and lower 
BBs have long been signature features of Riv frame geometry, and probably in 
the service of whatever GP is hinting at. The whole "in the bike" not on it 
thing.

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[RBW] Re: Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[EasyRider]

Thanks James, I enjoyed it. Will your shop do another Bridgestone/Rivendell 
owners ride this year? I missed last year's.

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[RBW] Re: Does this mean I have a bad rear hub?

[EasyRider]

Perhaps all your hub needs is to be repacked with new grease and adjusted 
to take the lateral play out.

Is it a freewheel hub, or a cassette freehub? 
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html



On Saturday, July 22, 2017 at 3:32:25 PM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Free*wheel* 7-speed cassette rear hub.
>
> A quiet knocking noise with weighted pedaling has started.
>
> Hub spins gravelly in the hands, and when I pinch the 36-tooth cassette 
> cog between my thumb and index finger and wiggle, there is a tiny bit of 
> play.
>
> Do I need a new wheel, or can this be inexpensively overhauled?
>
>
>
> *Other question is,* if I just replace the wheel with a spare wheel I 
> have (it is an LX 8-speed shimano type freehub wheel, with a 7-speed 
> cassette and 4.5  spacer on it), will is work with the existing indexing 
> shimano 7-speed derailers and shifters? Dropout spacing is the same.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Appaloosa 51cm and question about the 46cm size

[EasyRider]

I'm in between sizes on the Appaloosa. I asked a fellow list member what 
the standover on his 51cm Appaloosa was; he measured 77.5cm with 42mm 
tires. 

On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 5:12:20 PM UTC-4, RJ March wrote:
>
> This is my first post and I have been driven to it by a (mild) 
> desperation. Here's the story: I was looking to buy a Riv bike and settled 
> on the Joe Appaloosa. I went on the Riv website and was able to purchase a 
> 51cm Hi Ho Silver Joe Appaloosa. Amazing! I thought. A week later, I got a 
> call and sincere apology from Vince at Riv that this was a glitch in the 
> system and they have no more 51cm Appaloosas, at all. Not so amazing, I 
> thought. 
>
> I am now appealing to any of you all - any chance anyone out there wants 
> to part ways with their 51cm Appaloosa? 
>
> Alternatively, since my PBH is 79, Riv offered me a 46cm Appaloosa. I 
> think it would end up feeling like a pretty small bike. I would love to get 
> in on the ride experience of the Appaloosa but not at the expense of fit. I 
> have no Riv shops in my area. Has anyone been in a similar situation 
> between the 46 and 51 Appaloosa? 
>
> I am thinking I will stick with a 51cm size and go with a Sam Hillborne, 
> even though I am not a big fan of the caliper brake set up and would be 
> somewhat limited on touring - though I read on here that the Sam can haul, 
> too. 
>  
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: How hot is too hot?

[EasyRider]

Yes! With a heat index of 100 downtown, and the pavement simmering, ugh. 
But if I can play hooky and ride out to Great Falls under the tree canopy 
instead, well that's a nice ride.

On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 1:58:26 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 07/17/2017 12:23 PM, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Here in D.C., we're into our second week of mid-90s with high humidity, so 
> the heat index has climbed to 100 a few times ... it was 106 last Thursday. 
> 100 is about where I draw the line. Combined with air pollution, a 15 mile 
> round trip commute downtown in those conditions becomes rather unpleasant, 
> and probably unhealthy. 
>
>
> A lot depends on where you ride, and specifically on how much shade there 
> is.  I led a ride on that same Thursday in the Brandywine MD area, and I 
> found it actually pretty comfortable and pleasant most of the time, except 
> for the two flat tires I had.  Here's the route:  
> https://ridewithgps.com/routes/22794252  There was also an A/B leader; 
> here are links to our ride reports: 
> http://ohbike.memberlodge.org/reports/4975217 for the A/B leader's, and 
> http://ohbike.memberlodge.org/reports/4975268 for mine.   Of course, even 
> though it's not all that distant from downtown DC, there's a world of 
> difference between the center of downtown DC and the heart of PG County's 
> Rural Tier!
>
> FWIW, I haven't found one single day this summer to be insufferable or too 
> hot to ride.  But I'm mostly leading and I mostly get to pick and plan the 
> routes.  
>
>
> On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 9:50:32 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote: 
>>
>> The 5 day forecast here in KC is for mid to upper 90s (94 being the 
>> "coolest" high temp, 98 being the hottest) with lows of mid to upper 70s, 
>> sunny, 50-60% humidity and zero chance of rain. Light winds for this area, 
>> always out of the SW. Kansas City Ultra Cycling has moved the start time 
>> for Friday's Belgium Day 100K ride from 9:00 am to 6:30 am to beat some of 
>> the heat. 
>>
>> Personally, there are zero days per year that I consider too hot to ride. 
>> I sweat like crazy and I seem to hold up to the heat very well, although my 
>> fitness is not where I'd like and I need to lose weight, so I may not ride 
>> the Belgian ride, but I'll be on my bike every day, with rides between 15 
>> and at least 50 miles. I am, admittedly short on common sense, though. 
>>
>> Anyway, I know it's hot everywhere so how about you guys? I know Riv's 
>> don't melt because HQ is over 100 degrees quite often. Stay hydrated out 
>> there! I'm going shopping online for an asbestos chamois!
>>
> -
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How hot is too hot?

[EasyRider]

Here in D.C., we're into our second week of mid-90s with high humidity, so 
the heat index has climbed to 100 a few times ... it was 106 last Thursday. 
100 is about where I draw the line. Combined with air pollution, a 15 mile 
round trip commute downtown in those conditions becomes rather unpleasant, 
and probably unhealthy. 

On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 9:50:32 AM UTC-4, Tim wrote:
>
> The 5 day forecast here in KC is for mid to upper 90s (94 being the 
> "coolest" high temp, 98 being the hottest) with lows of mid to upper 70s, 
> sunny, 50-60% humidity and zero chance of rain. Light winds for this area, 
> always out of the SW. Kansas City Ultra Cycling has moved the start time 
> for Friday's Belgium Day 100K ride from 9:00 am to 6:30 am to beat some of 
> the heat. 
>
> Personally, there are zero days per year that I consider too hot to ride. 
> I sweat like crazy and I seem to hold up to the heat very well, although my 
> fitness is not where I'd like and I need to lose weight, so I may not ride 
> the Belgian ride, but I'll be on my bike every day, with rides between 15 
> and at least 50 miles. I am, admittedly short on common sense, though. 
>
> Anyway, I know it's hot everywhere so how about you guys? I know Riv's 
> don't melt because HQ is over 100 degrees quite often. Stay hydrated out 
> there! I'm going shopping online for an asbestos chamois!
>
>

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Re: [RBW] So many Rivs on the chopping block

[EasyRider]

Can you describe the wheelsets/swapping you do? I have a disc bike, and 
with high-quality tires in the 650b x 40-50mm range, I don't anticipate 
swapping very often, if at all. 

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 1:17:43 PM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:
>
> On Wed, Jun 21, 2017 at 12:34 PM, Garth  
> wrote:
> ...
>
>> The disc brake mentions have me wondering aloud, what did people do 
>> before disc brakes ? 
>
> ...
> They didn't swap wheelsets with different diameters and wildly different 
> width tires in a matter of seconds, or at all, with caliper, canti or 
> v-brakes. 
>
> Arguing that one brake stops better than another in all possible 
> situations with all possible riders is a not likely an argument worth 
> making, regardless of the brake that you'd represent. 
>
> The ability to swap wheel sizes and tire widths in ways that was not 
> previously available to me was not my original focus in moving to disc 
> brakes, but, it has become a great feature, when selecting the right bike 
> frame, to be able to maintain fewer complete bikes with an extra wheelset 
> or two, to be able to satisfy a wider range of riding situations. 
>
> -Jeff
> Silver Spring, MD
>  
>

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[RBW] Schwalbe sneaker-shoe day

[EasyRider]

I replaced my 26" Big Ben front tire with a Thunder Burt. I'm enjoying it! 
The TB weighs about half as much as the BB, and the knobs give me a little 
more control on loose stuff. Cornering and rolling seem unchanged. I'm 
keeping the BB on the rear, since it doesn't seem to wear or flat.

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Re: [Ext] [RBW] Re: New Riv Model - Newsletter

[EasyRider]

For me, the main appeal of the mountain mixte is that it fits a variety of 
riders. With an ~80cm PBH, I'm in between a small and medium on many Riv 
models. If I were to go small on a Joe or under 50 on a Hunqapillar, I'd be 
too cramped to use swept bars, even with a 130mm stem. But if I were go up 
a size, then standover starts to be a problem. Lots of great 650b tire 
choices, fewer in 26". The mixte also appeals for child seats -- no kicking 
the little ones as you swing a leg over the bike. I also like the 
skepticism it, and the Bubbe project in general, elicits. It's a selling 
point for me :)

On Monday, June 12, 2017 at 5:38:23 AM UTC-4, Les Lammers wrote:
>
>
> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 6:20:51 PM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>>
>> Bill - how many rivendell's do you own now?!?! Can I have a couple ;)
>>
>> *I don't get the appeal of the upright mountain mixte.* I guess it 
>> doesn't have to be upright, but they usually seem to be setup w/ albatross 
>> bars. To be honest though, I don't see the appeal of upright bars for 
>> anything other than a bike used to go a few miles here and there for 
>> commuting/errands/all rounder type stuff. Anything else (long road rides, 
>> trail rides, mixed rides, etc) I want something more aggressive 
>> (drops/albastache/riser/etc). What's the appeal of an upright mountain 
>> mixte? Is it just to have something different? Is it better/worse when 
>> things get real on the trails? I'm sure there's a lot of opinions here ;)
>>
>> The diagatube is great if you stop and start a lot and may save your 
>> jewels of rougher terrain. I don't have the mountain mixte but my Cheviot 
>> has map ahearne bars flipped and is quite comfortable. Upright but not too 
>> much so. My 2 cents.
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 7:18:42 AM UTC-7, Pudge wrote:
>>>
>>> Congrats!
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jun 9, 2017, at 2:08 PM, Chris Birkenmaier  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Congratulations Bill!  I know you keep an inventory of spare parts.  Any 
>>> idea of the drivetrain or wheels you are planning for it?  I'm getting one 
>>> but haven't invested much time in thinking about the build.
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 5, 2017 at 2:58:49 PM UTC-4, Chris Birkenmaier wrote: 

 I'm kind of surprised that no one has mentioned the comment in the May 
 30 newsletter about not being able to get an orange Sam or a green/silver 
 Appaloosa for at least 648 days BUT that something in the middle might be 
 replacing them next year.  Having a bike between a Sam and a Joe seems to 
 be splitting a finer line but I'm stoked to see what they come with (or 
 maybe come up with).  I recently bought a silver 51 Joe and it has really 
 calmed down my bike buying desires because it is just so good.  I have a 
 Sam, Joe, Cheviot, San Marcos , Rosco Mountain Mixte on order and a 
 Quickbeam so I don't need another.  But I'm endlessly interested in what 
 they come up with.

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>>>
>>> The sender of this email is a retired partner of Skadden, Arps, Slate, 
>>> Meagher & Flom LLP ("Skadden") and is not performing legal service on 
>>> behalf of Skadden. Use by a retired partner of the skadden.com or 
>>> probonolaw.com domain names is in his/her personal capacity and not on 
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>>

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[RBW] Re: Platform Pedal Recommendation for Sam

[EasyRider]

+1 for the VP Vice and VP-001s, but I prefer the Vices. The 001's have pins 
in the center of the pedal, and I like a slightly concave feel. 

On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 2:37:09 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Daniel,
>
> The Aim's description says it is "dual concave." Does that mean it is 
> lower at the axel than at the front and back? If so, that limits foot 
> position to forefoot only, no mid-foot pedaling.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 10:38:15 AM UTC-6, Daniel M wrote:
>>
>> The VP Aim is my current favorite. I saw them for the first time at NAHBS 
>> in Sacramento last year and bought a pair a few weeks later at Sea Otter. I 
>> find then very aesthetically pleasing and comfortable. Simple, minimalist 
>> design, available in silver, and slight concavity that helps keep your foot 
>> in place along with the pins. I also like that the axle extends all the way 
>> to the edge of the pedal. I put a pair on my MB-1 and they go very nicely 
>> with the rest of the bike and I love the way they feel underfoot.  
>>
>> http://www.vp-usa.com/vp-aim/
>>
>> Daniel M
>> Berkeley, CA
>>
>>

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