Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Pictures Thread

[Pancake]

That is one FINE looking Sam! 
I miss it already but sure happy you’re giving it a nice rebuild and really 
riding it!
Abe 

On Monday, May 20, 2024 at 2:03:50 PM UTC-7 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I finally got around to snapping a photo of my 56cm 2TT Sam that I snagged 
> from Abe here on the group. Exploring some of the unfinished Beltline here 
> in Atlanta.
>
> Highlights include a Paul Racers/levers/moon units, a Son Edelux & Dynamo 
> wheel from Rich, Rene Herse 44cm Manastash Ridge , Marks/Campee Nitto 
> racks, Deore XT Rapid Rise, Silver Shifters and Lots of Blue Lug 
> adornments(Frame pad, safety triangle, chain guard). Also, some bags I 
> already had(and match stupidly well) from The Spindle 
>  here in ATL. The Saddle is a Green B17 
> Special, though it looks black here. 
>
> Absolutely loving this bike, and really happy to have found the biggest 
> straight top tube frame I can stand over(834mm).
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Sonoma Wine Country Century tomorrow! Anyone else?

[Pancake]

The Charlie H Gallop prototype is heading out for 100 miles tomorrow in 
Santa Rosa, basket and rain and all. Anyone else going to be on the ride 
tomorrow? 
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/29272184
I’ve done this once before (my only prior Century) and it was wonderful … 
but it didn’t include tomorrow’s predicted 1” of rain peaking just before 
the ride begins.

Related to rain: I have a light rain resistant jacket, partial fenders 
(MudX in front and Portland folding in back), and wool socks … any other 
suggestions for how to keep a bit dry and to dry out while riding? There’s 
a gear drop off point about 1/3rd of the way through which is when the rain 
should be receding, so I can ditch some gear. I’m just curious how the bits 
under my shorts will fair, I’m optimistic a bit of wind and time will dry 
me out when possible. Definitely time to get out the Brooks seat cover too!

Finally, I’ve never really “carb loaded” beyond having rice or pasta before 
a ride. But I bonked last weekend on a 50 mile ride (albeit without really 
eating much of anything before). Anyone have a preferred liquid carb filled 
drink so I don’t fill my body with just rice and corn flakes?

Hope everyone gets a great ride in this weekend!
Abe

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Re: [RBW] FS: Sam Hillborne 56cm 2TT

[Pancake]

Sold to Drew, easy to deal with and friendly fella. It was hard to let this 
one go but I’m glad it’s got a new home and wider shoes on the way for the 
 rough Atlanta streets.

On Friday, March 29, 2024 at 12:47:44 PM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> Price: $1900.
>
> Price can change depending on what changes or swaps you want. Willing to 
> ship but the shipping and packing will be at buyer’s expense. 
>
> Arg! Sorry I didn’t get the price in there. Tried replying to the post on 
> my phone but Google groups rarely plays nice on mobile.
> Consolation photos to make up for my mistake: [image: image8.jpeg][image: 
> image9.jpeg]
> [image: image0.jpeg][image: image1.jpeg][image: image2.jpeg][image: 
> image3.jpeg][image: image4.jpeg][image: image5.jpeg][image: 
> image6.jpeg][image: 
> image7.jpeg]
>
> On Mar 29, 2024, at 12:03 PM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>
> Lovely! Price?
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 29, 2024, at 1:09 PM, Abe Gardner  wrote:
>
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
> Sentimental history at the end, let’s start with the details as built (and 
> I have drop bars, an XT Rapid Rise RD, and other parts I could swap in for 
> slight price changes):
>
> Sam Hillborne 56cm double top tube
> Wheels by Rich Lesnik Hands on Wheels: 
> -Velocity Atlas rims (matte silver),
> -Silver Deore hubs, 
> -Double butted spokes,
> -Soma Shikoro 700x38 tires, tan sidewall (very few miles, one has a small 
> nick that doesn’t affect function)
> Handlebar: Nitto Albastache Bar (RM017 w/some tape residue - I’ll 
> wrap/shellack them for you if you want but figure you may want to adjust 
> first).
> Stem: Nitto 7cm if my memory is right, I’ll measure again. 
> Brake levers: Tiagra BL-R400 Silver
> Front brake: *Paul Components Racer brake silver *(I could swap a black 
> one from my Cheviot if you prefer), silver Moon Unit, *Purple* Funky 
> Monkey cable hanger, Koolstop cartridge pads (silver)
> Black skewers, probably shimano.
> Rear brake: Tektro R559 Extra Long Reach silver (rust on the spring) 
> w/Koolstop cartridge pads (silver)
> Seatpost: Nitto S65 (standard scuffing)
> Pedals: VP-Vice Blue VP-015-BL 
> Crankset: Clipper triple with 46 / 36 / 26 (I’ll double check that) 
> w/minimal wear on rings
> Chain: lighter weight KMC 9 or 10 speed, minimal wear (has two quick links 
> because long chain stays)
> Front and Rear Derailers: Deore LX (probably made for 8 speed, work great 
> with friction shifting this 9 speed cassette FD-M568 RD-M568).
> Front shifter: Microshift friction or 3 speed index.
> Rear shifter: Rivendell Silver shifter and “O” Silver friction lever
> Cassette: Shimano HG 11-36t, low miles. (Might be 12-36)
> Plencher single leg kickstand
> Jagwire cables and housing in dark gray
> FSA headset Riv always seems to use. 
>
> Want drop bars? I have Soma Portola bars (think flared Nitto Noodles) in 
> 46cm at hoods, 52cm between bar ends. Silver Tektro TRP RRL SR Drillum 
> brake levers with tan gum hoods. We can sort a price. Here are those 
> bars/levers with different tape and black covers, now tan covers and 
> black/rainbow tape:
> 
>
>
> I’ll throw in a set of SKS fenders if you want them, well used but work 
> great. Hardware included. 
>
> *Seat not included*, but I have a Brooks C15 ‘tester’ somewhere if you 
> want, add $45?
>
> There is a little scuffing to the paint along the middle of the top tube 
> where there was shellacked twine to protect against bar strikes. Random 
> nicks and scratches, some filled with close but not perfect Testers paint. 
>
> Always hard to say goodbye to a Riv, but this Sam is a special one - took 
> me on my first Century and all over Napa and Sonoma counties, twice around 
> Lake Tahoe. Purchased as used from Riv in 2019, though they asked not to be 
> bothered about its history. It’s got standard beusage for being several 
> years old and ridden plenty, but it’s still beautiful in my book. There are 
> a few spots of shellack that ought to come out with denatured alcohol and 
> elbow grease.  
>
> Here’s the relevant old geometry chart with the 56cm stats:
>
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gfiN1kOxVrthdc6eScUF9fP5n-BvRBILbBMYiEg5LM4/edit#gid=0
> 83.4cm stand over
>
> Here a photo of how it was setup when I got it, quite a few changes since 
> then: 
>
>
> 
>
> Good for PBH 84 thru 89 by my estimate (I’m 84cm PBH and it’s a good fit).
>
> Located in Napa but I make my way to SF and Berkeley every couple weekends 
> so could deliver there. 
>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "

[RBW] Re: FS: Shimano Rapid Rise XT RD-m780, Velo Orange crankset 46/30, CX70 brakes, Brooks B72 + saddle sandwich, B+M Secula Plus, SunTour BL FD, more

[Pancake]

Well, all the text of that didn’t make it, oops! Here’s the details and 
prices:
Cleaning out some extra bits and bobs:

Shimano Rapid Rise XT RD-M780, some silver pen paint on the black bits 
(comes off with alcohol but I think looks nice) $35
Velo Orange grand cru double crankset 46/30, can include extra set of chain 
rings (also VO 46/30) plus hardware ($125)
CX70 brakes, one wheels worth: looks like a dark silver version of the CX50 
canti brake: $25
I may have a second set somewhere, lemme look around.
Vintage Brooks B72 + saddle sandwich and extra long bolts to make it fit on 
a modern seatpost. Modified to add holes in the skirt so it can be laced 
between the skirts for added support / prevent flare. ($80)
SunTour BL Blue Line FD - barely the range to shift a Clipper triple, 
better fit for a double in my book; $20
KMC 8 X8 speed chain: $10
Schwable Marathon Plus Performance Line SmartGuard 650x38mm, 27.5”x1.50” 
40-584 ($30 each, $50 for the pair)
Portland Bicycle Works Dove water bottle holder: $10
MMS toe clips with nylon straps: $7
Mirrabell mirror for bar end: $10
Helmet mirror: $3
Canon AE-1 Program camera with 28-70mm lens, accessories: $25 (or free to 
someone learning to shoot with a film camera)

On Saturday, March 30, 2024 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> Cleaning out some extra bits and bobs:
>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite Bay Area S24Os?

[Pancake]

Bothe in Calistoga. Good hike and bike campsite always available. Though 
this will be a better option as the Vine Trail continues to be extende, 
otherwise you get some time on Silverado Trail which is nice but … yeah, 
cars.
On Monday, January 22, 2024 at 3:30:29 PM UTC-8 christian poppell wrote:

> Hey Jesse,
>
> I've visited Samuel P many times via bike. Pre 2020, hiker biker site at 
> Samuel P was no reservation required. Even when the hiker/biker was "full" 
> there was always enough room to squeeze in. The best part of sharing the 
> site with others is hearing their stories. Some were overnighters like me, 
> others were from Europe and hiking up the California coast. You might want 
> to check on the policies of the state park as many things have changed 
> since 2020.
>
> Riding to go camping was a revelation for me. I could ride to a 
> destination, sleep, then ride back which doubled the distance between 
> points I could ride in a day. It sounds silly writing it out but was 
> totally mind blowing at the time as all my rides prior were planned around 
> getting back to where I started. 
>
> Here's a write up I did back in 2017 about riding up to Samuel P on a 
> Quickbeam.
>  https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/8AYdSsNsh7E/m/h5unB6v_AwAJ  
> 
>
> Please give us an update after your trip. always enjoy reading others ride 
> reports :)
>
> Christian
> Phoenix, AZ
> On Monday, January 22, 2024 at 2:40:02 PM UTC-7 jesse.b...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks! I was able to a camp reservation in Feb for Angel Isand, i'll 
>> report back on how it went. 
>>
>> Donzaemon - I think most "require" a reservation, but some do have first 
>> some site for bikers/hikers. A few friends also let me know that they have 
>> never had an issue showing up during the week. Weekends are probably a 
>> different story.
>>
>> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 1:04:36 PM UTC-8 Donzaemon wrote:
>>
>>> Does one need a reservation to camp there? Trying to plan a trip there 
>>> this spring and most of the weekend slots are gone.
>>>
>>> Don
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 10:43:26 AM UTC-8 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>>>
 Angel Island is an oft-overlooked destination. 
 SP Taylor State Park (though in a valley and tends to be a bit damp)
 China Camp State Park


 On Sunday, January 21, 2024 at 10:31:42 AM UTC-8 jesse.b...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hello! I am hoping to do a lot more quick overnight trips this year 
> and was wondering if people had favorite rides and camp spots in the bay 
> area? I have a few Marin sites on my list (Pantoll, Hawk).
>
> I live in SF, but not opposed to taking bart as part of the trip.
>


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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell shirts XL - burgundy and heather gray with front pockets

[Pancake]

I’m also open to trading anybody for size Large Riv shirts, long sleeves, 
sweaters  or hats or similar. 

On Saturday, November 18, 2023 at 10:19:44 AM UTC-8 Pancake wrote:

> $10 each or both for $16, plus shipping unless you want to pick up in 
> Napa, CA.
>
> I’m a size smaller now so these should go to someone else in the group. 
> Well worn but still in fair shape. Grey neck is looser than the burgundy 
> neck, both fit as a true XL. The white print on the burgundy shirt is 
> cracked which seems unavoidable after a few washes as far as I can tell. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Pancake]

Photos of Cheviot, Charlie, Sam Hillborne, Rosco Baby Bike, Gus, a Homer 
.

I've ridden a 60cm Cheviot (my first Riv) for over 5 years and the 57cm 
Charlie prototype for just over a year and around 1,750 miles of commuting, 
hills around Napa, and occasional dirt bits of single and double track. 
I'll be taking my Rosco Baby bike out to Nevada City for some mountain 
biking this weekend though that's normally has the tamer child carting work 
it's built for. My PBH is 84.5cm and I'm 6'0", around 230lbs.

My Cheviot and Charlie are setup with the same drive train almost: 46/30 
double in front and 11-40 9 or 10 speed cassette in back with friction 
shifting and clutch derailers (GRX rx810 on the Charlie, SRAM GX long on 
the Cheviot). *I should write a whole post about the wonderful discovery of 
the GRX RX810, it's what every bike I've ever had was missing for a rock 
solid drivetrain. *

I've ridden a Sam Hillborne for maybe 3 years too - but the Charlie is 
replacing it (watch for a double top tube 56cm Hillborne to be for sale 
soon). Though they're not the same (the Charlie is longer, swoopier, and 
flexier) the Cheviot is setup to for mostly commuting while the Sam was my 
bike for longer, sometimes faster rides. I mostly had it with drop bars but 
received it with Boscos and ultimately switched to Mustache bars.
 
*The Cheviot and Charlie don't cross over in some important way, but to 
start with the similarities:*
1. Mine are both orange. Just the luck of the draw.
2. They're both long ... nearly the same length surprisingly. This makes 
for a smoothed out ride I really enjoy.
3. They both feel best with upright bars - drop bars on the Charlie were 
good and comfy like on the Sam, but the Charlie is just more comfortable 
with more upright bars and I wouldn't say that about the Sam. 
4. They'll both have sidepull brakes - this is a downside for me as I want 
for the stopping power of v-brakes and only the mighty Proto-Charlie has 
them ... and the Platypus!


*But Charlie and the Chev are different in important ways for me:*a. Need 
Charlie's v-brakes, just a personal thing. The Cheviot's sidepull r559 with 
salmon or gray (e-bike) Koolstop or Yokozuna pads are great, but not enough 
for the steep downhills of dirt I want the Cheviot to be able to take on a 
whim. They fall just short, same for my Sam (though since then others have 
come with canti-posts). 
b. Charlie flexes a bit as you take off with all your might! It's a pretty 
quick road bike and it feels great over long stretches. The Cheviot (and a 
friend's platypus I rode) are both a bit more sturdy - in fact they'd bee 
more trustworthy on more mountain bike single track than the Charlie just 
based on feel. The Cheviot or Platypus (or best of all as it's more 
affordable but less swoopy, the Rosco-Plat) are more better for bigger 
tires (the Cheviot and Charlie top out of 50mm fenderless, but the Platypus 
can take more, about 56cm / 2.2" according to Riv). That said, since my 
Cheviot is setup with 42mm Basketball tires and fenders, while the Charlie 
is set with 44mm Snoqualmie pass (and until recently, 50mm Schwalbe g-one 
All-round) tires and it more likely to see a long stretch of gravel than 
the Cheviot. If one would become more dedicated to mountain bike rides I'd 
pick the Cheviot though. of Cherlie
c. Cheviot is a huge Cadillac sedan, a yacht of a bike with creature 
comforts and fun for s240 with a basket and rear rack. Charlie is my ideal 
"country bike" that looks for gravel and dirt stretches or eats up comfy 
miles and fun speed, while the long chain stays still give a super smooth 
ride. 

Platypus has the rearward swoop like Charlie's top tube, and v-brakes like 
our Proto-Charlies ... makes a very tempting bike, great colors too. 
Rosco-Plat saves some couple hundred dollarydoos but loses the swoop.
Charlie has side pull brakes which are great for many but not me, otherwise 
it's nearly my ideal country bike. I'd only like to have the option for up 
to 55mm tires, otherwise it's perfect. That said, I just switched from 
max'd out 50mm knobbie tires to 44mm smooth tread tires so maybe I just 
want what I can't have. 

"I do find Charlie's lines more fetching."
I'd call plat vs. charlie styling a wash (because they're both great), but 
if you like top tube swoop it's gotta be Charlie. The Cheviot has a more 
straight link look, but's it's classy in a similar way but different style. 
I understand the production Charlie may have slightly less swoop though, 
perhaps someone knows better though. As is, the swoop in the top tube is 
great for dismounting while still rolling by kicking a leg over the top 
tube.

"I'll be building the bike up for riding predominantly on smooth surfaces - 
paved roads and hard packed rail trails. Also thinking full fenders over 38 
or 40 mm tires - 700c or 650b. Bars maybe a cm above the seat (with 
flexibility to raise them more if needed in the future). It will 

Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Pancake]

Love mine with v-brakes - that’s what makes it perfect to me really so I’m 
thrilled I got a prototype. But they’re right about mini-v-brakes just not 
quite working. I tried 4 different models with different arm lengths 
(82-90mm) and it was never right: too much pull required to get pad to rim 
contact, but then too much mechanical advantage so very limited modulation. 

But with standard v-brakes (with linear pull / long pull) the bike shines. 
Modulation but also super stopping power that caliper and sidepull brakes 
can’t match. That’s why it is replacing my Sam instead of the Sam getting 
brake mounts welded on. 

I’ve probably put 2,000 miles of this bike and it’s almost always my go to: 
commuting or dirt or a century ride - I’d be happy with the proto-Charlie 
for any of those! 

Inverted albatross bars are perfect for 22.2mm v-brake lever clamps while 
giving a super shallow drop position. Bar ends mounted forward in the curve 
of the albatross bars gives a hood-like position I love too.

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[RBW] Re: Platypus v Susie Longbolts Comparison

[Pancake]

I've ridden all three:
Susie: 2 hour test ride from Riv HQ was delightful. Definitely more 
mountain bike than the Cheviot, perhaps mostly because it fits and had 
significantly wider tires. I am significantly over the Susie weight limit, 
no one was worried about that. 
Platypus: looks a little better than my cheviot but the same in nearly 
every ride category except (1) it takes slightly wider tires and (2) it has 
canti-studs allowing for superior V-brakes. I'm a heavy guy so v-brakes 
higher capacity is important to me, but the Cheviot also handles single 
track with it's r559 brakes pretty well. It's also swoopier which is nice. 
Cheviot: my main commuter ride, been everywhere with it with 42mm wide 
basketball tires. Only ever stopped by deep sand. I love nearly everything 
about this bike but I'd trade it for a RoscoPlat or Platypus to get those 
v-brake studs. That wouldn't matter as much to me if I wasn't as heavy. 
I'll probably get studs welded on one day if a Plat of some sort doesn't 
land in my lap. The Cheviot has been loaded up for touring/camping and 
taken along single track over tree stumps and rocks. I ride it with Atlas 
rims, basketball tires 42mm x 700; VO crankset 46/30t double, 11-40t 
9-speed cassette, and wide pedals, SKS fenders work well. It's been a 
champ, my first Riv. 

Personally, if I was choosing for myself, I'd get the Platypus (but I 
commute more than I mountain bike). 

On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 8:16:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I've only owned/ridden a Susie so my only input is I'm fairly certain it 
> has a shallower headtube angle than Platypus, this might account for a 
> front load causing more floppiness on the Susie. 
>
> On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 7:57:20 PM UTC-8 bei...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Wow, Jared! What a great way to get us started off. Thanks for sharing! 
>> Interesting that moving "up" to the Susie which can handle bigger tires, 
>> you're itching to move back "down" to the max tire size for the Platy!
>> Also, I love that this world exists where one can write "Leah's dual 
>> Platypus situation" and everyone knows who you're referencing. A huge 
>> driver in my decision to buy a Platypus, that's for sure! 
>> Thanks again for lending your thoughts. Looking forward to other folks 
>> takes too!
>>
>> Best, Christian
>>
>> On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 7:14:02 PM UTC-7 Jared Wilson wrote:
>>
>>> I'll give it a go...
>>>
>>> Prerequisites: 56cm Susie, 59cm Susie, 60cm Cheviot and 60cm Platypus
>>>
>>> I think you're on the right track with the similarities between these 
>>> two models, they ride much the same with, IMO, the main difference being 
>>> the max tire size and front load-abliity.
>>>
>>> The Platypus lends itself to what the copy states, zooming around town 
>>> and in my experience the Platy handles a front (racked) load better than 
>>> the Susie. This isn't to say that's all the Platypus is good for, as you 
>>> have experienced first hand the Plat is very capable off road as well. Set 
>>> up with Snoqualmie Pass tires for country or town cruising and 2.1 Thunder 
>>> Burts for all terrain riding and you have a bike that's hard to beat. The 
>>> bottom bracket does feel lower on the Platypus (I'm certain it is) and that 
>>> does factor into some of the difference in feel between the two, but it's 
>>> certainly not all that dramatic. I wouldn't worry about stated load 
>>> capacity variances between the two, they're both stout bikes that can 
>>> handle most anything the average person can throw at them. Weight wise I'd 
>>> say they're also comparable, just depends on the racks, tires, etc.
>>>
>>> My old 60cm Platypus is now in the hands of my wife (86pbh) who loads it 
>>> down with a small Fabios chest up front and Swift panniers on a shiny rack 
>>> out back. Even when she doesn't need all that capacity she'll leave the 
>>> bags on because they leave the ability to find treasure out on the road 
>>> (alley fruit, garage sale finds, etc). You'd think she's going on tour with 
>>> her daily kit, but the Platypus takes it well and keeps on ticking. She 
>>> claims it to be her forever bike and the only addition to the stable she 
>>> cares to make will be a Heron touring whenever it may present itself.
>>>
>>> My (89pbh) current bike is the 59cm Susie, with the 56cm being my first 
>>> venture into Rivendells. I love the Susie, and the 56cm was just a little 
>>> too small for my taste, with more stem and seatpost showing than I cared 
>>> for. The 59cm feels a bit less crowded than the 60cm Platypus which I 
>>> appreciate, and the additional tire clearance is welcome, but I feel that 
>>> bike encourages a bit more tire than I actually need. The bulk of our 
>>> riding is on country roads and occasional dirt, and the 2.5" Ehlines are a 
>>> little overkill, but they sure look right at home. I'm keeping my eyes 
>>> peeled for a pair of Fleecer Ridge or Super Yummy tires (both 29x2.2) to 
>>> see how the bike 

[RBW] Re: What's Good - Wide-ish/flared drops edition...

[Pancake]

Soma Portola - https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/portola-bar
56cm wide at the flared ends but 45.5cm on the hoods
Meets your 26mm diameter requirement.

That’s where I landed when I was looking for a similar change (wider, more 
flared noodle, less drop, less reach). They’ve been great. Though like 
another poster, I just swapped them for Albatross bars (though upside down 
and with bar ends mounted in the middle so I get a hood like position). 
I’ve tried RM-013 and noodles, the the Portola was the best so far. I’m 
also curious about the 600mm Towel Rack but haven’t tried it. 

Description from soma:
This bar is similar to our June Bug dirt drop bar, except it uses a 26.0mm 
center and comes in a narrower width. Nice option to try for adventure 
touring, trail riding or commuting. 112mm drop. 65mm reach. Grips have a 
slight flare. Width at lever mounting area: 41cm (53cm size), 45.5cm (56cm 
size) approx.  - Polished 6061 T6 aluminum - 53 and 56cm widths (measured 
center to center at bar ends) - 26.0mm center 

On Friday, December 9, 2022 at 6:36:15 AM UTC-8 bjmi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey everyone!
> I posted earlier about reach in converting to a wider bar and decided to 
> start a different conversation to get opinions on wide-ish, flared drops.
>
> I like the Nitto Noodle quite well, but I think I do want a little flare 
> and I don't want to bend them myself. So what's good out there? I'm tempted 
> by the Crust Towel Rack, but I'd love to hear what you all like.
>
> If it helps/matters, the kind of riding I do with the bike it's going is 
> casual rails-to-trails, some rolling gravel roads, but nothing too 
> technical or serious.
>
> Thanks!
> Ben
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: friction thumb shifters and mounts - Silver2 or similar (for Albatross bars, 9 speed)

[Pancake]

I’m all set now, got shifters and mounts all lined up!

On Sunday, October 30, 2022 at 7:11:03 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> Got the shifters, still need the X and O thumb mounts for Silver 2 
> shifters. Or just the “X” mount that riv doesn’t have in stock (and I could 
> get the O from Riv). 
>
> Abe
>
> On Saturday, October 29, 2022 at 8:47:48 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>
>> *Summary:*
>> *Want to buy Silver thumb mounts and Silver2 shifters for both sides - X 
>> and O of both. Or similar like Paul mounts or IRD or anything *to get me 
>> riding a 9 speed cassette, double crankset.[image: IMG_1638.jpg]
>>
>> *Details:*
>> I swapped from Soma Portola drop bars to steel 56cm Albatross bars last 
>> night ... only to realize I don't have the shifters I need, oops! Setup is:
>> Bars: Albatross bars (22.2mm diameter)
>> Rear derailer: Shimano Nexave RD-C505 Rapid Rise
>> Rear cassette: 9 speed, 11-40t
>> Crankset: IRD Defiant double 46/30t
>> Front derailer: SunTour BL BlueLine Riv put on the Charlie H Gallop 
>> prototype (so friction best to shift this).
>>
>> I have an "O" shifter I can borrow from another bike, but really I'm 
>> looking for a pair of both shifters and mounts.
>>
>> *Hopefully someone has a full set of Silver or similar mounts and/or 
>> shifters and I could buy the difference from Riv *( the "X"/right side 
>> mount is out of stock there, though BlueLug has full pair/sets w/10 days of 
>> shipping time and I want to ride now!)
>>
>> I'd be just as happy to get something cheaper/functional to get me riding 
>> quickly - Sunrace shifters/mounts would be fine (and could take the silver2 
>> shifters later anyhow). Paul mounts would work too - hopefully in silver. I 
>> believe IRD and MicroShift also make silver thumb mounts/shifters too. 
>>
>> *Also, if you've got a pair of silver v-brake pull brake levers I'd be 
>> interested. Avid levers work fine, but looking to have a polished look just 
>> for fun. *
>>
>> Located in Napa but can pick up in Berkeley or SF or most anywhere within 
>> an hour like Sacramento or Santa Rosa. 
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Abe
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: friction thumb shifters and mounts - Silver2 or similar (for Albatross bars, 9 speed)

[Pancake]

Got the shifters, still need the X and O thumb mounts for Silver 2 
shifters. Or just the “X” mount that riv doesn’t have in stock (and I could 
get the O from Riv). 

Abe

On Saturday, October 29, 2022 at 8:47:48 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> *Summary:*
> *Want to buy Silver thumb mounts and Silver2 shifters for both sides - X 
> and O of both. Or similar like Paul mounts or IRD or anything *to get me 
> riding a 9 speed cassette, double crankset.[image: IMG_1638.jpg]
>
> *Details:*
> I swapped from Soma Portola drop bars to steel 56cm Albatross bars last 
> night ... only to realize I don't have the shifters I need, oops! Setup is:
> Bars: Albatross bars (22.2mm diameter)
> Rear derailer: Shimano Nexave RD-C505 Rapid Rise
> Rear cassette: 9 speed, 11-40t
> Crankset: IRD Defiant double 46/30t
> Front derailer: SunTour BL BlueLine Riv put on the Charlie H Gallop 
> prototype (so friction best to shift this).
>
> I have an "O" shifter I can borrow from another bike, but really I'm 
> looking for a pair of both shifters and mounts.
>
> *Hopefully someone has a full set of Silver or similar mounts and/or 
> shifters and I could buy the difference from Riv *( the "X"/right side 
> mount is out of stock there, though BlueLug has full pair/sets w/10 days of 
> shipping time and I want to ride now!)
>
> I'd be just as happy to get something cheaper/functional to get me riding 
> quickly - Sunrace shifters/mounts would be fine (and could take the silver2 
> shifters later anyhow). Paul mounts would work too - hopefully in silver. I 
> believe IRD and MicroShift also make silver thumb mounts/shifters too. 
>
> *Also, if you've got a pair of silver v-brake pull brake levers I'd be 
> interested. Avid levers work fine, but looking to have a polished look just 
> for fun. *
>
> Located in Napa but can pick up in Berkeley or SF or most anywhere within 
> an hour like Sacramento or Santa Rosa. 
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Abe
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Do you Rapid Rise? (Share pics and thoughts)

[Pancake]

Exactly right Eric, that photo shows the third pulley just disengaged 
because it’s in the tallest gear on the cassette and middle chainring. Less 
slack in the chain means the chain is pulling the derailer mechanism 
forward enough to disengage the third pulley. But when you shift down the 
third pulley engages and makes it act like a longer cage derailler, eating 
up slack and avoiding chain slap while all the while keeping the lowest 
pulleys far off the ground. It’s clever! But Dad needs a read rack and 
panniers to make grocery trips easier so the bike will be in my garage 
again soon - I’ll take some closer up photos in different positions then. 
I do wonder ho/if  a significantly larger pulley could do something similar 
but that’s above my pay grade. 
Abe

On Wednesday, September 28, 2022 at 8:33:01 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Nice one, Pancake. Dang, those mechs are wild. Looks like the smallest 
> pulley wheel isn't engaged in this position?
>
> On Wednesday, September 28, 2022 at 10:26:37 AM UTC-4 Pancake wrote:
>
>> [image: D7524129-0A85-4CDF-8977-5CB6316AF1EA.jpeg]Built up a Nishiki Bel 
>> Air for my dad as a grocery getter … including the triple pulley read 
>> derailer:
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 28, 2022 at 3:58:36 AM UTC-7 J J wrote:
>>
>>> [image: SunTour 3 pulley system.jpg]
>>>
>>> A few months ago I saw a SunTour XC triple pulley RD for the first time. 
>>> Pictured 
>>> here. It was on an old mountain bike that hangs high on a wall in a DC 
>>> bike shop. I was confused and intrigued. The extremely ornery, loud, 
>>> and hilarious shop foreman, who was helping a customer, noticed me staring 
>>> at it. He said, “Cool, huh?” 
>>>
>>> I nodded and pointed to the XC. “It has three….?” 
>>>
>>> Shouting over the customer the mechanic said: “Exactly, bro. Three. A 
>>> triple. It’s wild. That was my daily ride since forever. But you see the 
>>> seat tube? Some asshole took a crowbar to the lock and crushed it. Couldn’t 
>>> even steal it properly. It’s too far gone to repair. So I hung it for 
>>> posterity. And before you ask, no, I will not sell you that derailleur.” 
>>> Then he turned back to the customer.  
>>> On Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 6:56:36 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'd buy one of those cool looking Suntour Rd's any day ! Man I miss 
>>>> Suntour stuff.  I have no need or desire for a reverse direction RD 
>>>> though. 
>>>> On Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 5:46:37 PM UTC-4 Luke Hendrickson 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It’s super cool!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 6:20:03 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Wow, Luke, I've never seen one of those. I had to check out Disraeli 
>>>>>> Gears 
>>>>>> <https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site/suntour_xc_derailleur_3_pulley_system.html>for
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> more info. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "So what in heaven’s name is this? SunTour were wrestling with the 
>>>>>> demands of the new mountain bikes, with their triple chainsets and huge 
>>>>>> gear capacities. They hated the very long pulley cages, which had 
>>>>>> limited 
>>>>>> ground clearance and irritating chain slap - so they invented the ‘3 
>>>>>> Pulley 
>>>>>> System’. With one brilliant stroke it gave huge capacity with a 
>>>>>> relatively 
>>>>>> short cage. Ground clearance was restored, chain slap minimised.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Fantastic - except for the fact that it looked so weird that, as you 
>>>>>> cycled by, dogs barked, babies cried and your friends laughed. At you, 
>>>>>> not 
>>>>>> with you. Sales were lamentably low."
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, September 27, 2022 at 2:14:50 AM UTC-4 Luke Hendrickson 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> [image: 40650634-AA3B-48BE-A3F3-09AC3632AB79.jpeg]
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I shall most likely be buying this as my friend (Jim of Merry Sales) 
>>>>>>> is involved, I want to support Riv, and this will officially be the 
>>>>>>> only 
>>>>>>> good-looking contemporary rd made. That said, I happen to love what I’m 
>>>>>>> running rn: a three pulley Suntour 

[RBW] Re: Anyone run 700x50 tires on a Sam Hillborne?

[Pancake]

On my 56cm Sam I rode 700x50mm Schwabel G-One Allround tires (VO Voyager 
rims which are slightly wider than Atlas rims) - no problems. But I 
wouldn’t have ridden any wider tires. 2mm+ gap between tires and frame. But 
I was just as happy riding 44mm Snoqualme pass tires before that. 
On Monday, 22 August 2022 at 06:44:12 UTC-7 lconley wrote:

> Yes, as a single speed with White ENO eccentric RH.
> [image: SingleSpeedSam50.jpg]
>
> Laing
>
> On Sunday, August 21, 2022 at 6:44:57 PM UTC-4 brenton...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I am running 700x47 teravails on velocity dyad hoops with a ton of room. 
>> I've seen people running the 700x48 Rene Herse knobbies on my same frame. 
>> Mine is a 57 and the brakes have more clearance than the frame. So I'm 
>> tempted by the Soma Cazadero and or Gravelking SK in a 50. Anyone flown 
>> this close to the sun?!?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Pancake]

I was looking for something that can take plenty of weight and was focused 
on thenHollywood Sport SE (excellent) but ended up with the Swagman 
Current. It will handle two bikes at 60 pounds each, comes with a locking 
hitch pin, locking cable, and the hooks lock as well. Usually $100 cheaper 
than the Hollywood SE and more regularly in stock. Works well for my 
Cheviot, Gallop, Hillborne, Baby bike, and other step through frames. I’d 
happily buy it again. Much lower price and easier to hold fendered  bikes 
vs. 1Up. 

That said, I think the Current can be found for the same price as the SE 
these days.

Abe
On Sunday, 31 July 2022 at 19:09:31 UTC-7 ack...@gmail.com wrote:

> I just installed an IQ-X on my Atlantis, and hoo boy, is it bright, 
> pretty, and well-made...  Did take some extra spacers to work with the Pass 
> and Stow 3-rail rack, but I really wish I had known how great this light 
> was before I bought the Edelux for my Clem.  From the conversations I've 
> had with friends who get to bikepack more often than I, the IQ-X is, 
> without a doubt, the favorite and most beloved.
> A
>
> On Saturday, July 30, 2022 at 8:17:59 PM UTC-7 samwe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Another vote for the IQ-X. It's terrifically bright, well-shaped, 
>> well-constructed, and the standlight is quite bright and long-lasting.
>>
>> A much cheaper option is a Herrmans (eg 
>> https://www.modernbike.com/herrmans-headlights), which I tried recently. 
>> I have an MR-4. It's actually rather bright and decently shaped, but the 
>> construction is shabby (the lens pops off entirely at the slightest 
>> provocation) and the capacitor must be tiny: the light flickers in a 
>> terribly distracting way at low speeds, and the standlight is very weak. 
>> The flickering problem is bad enough that I switch the light off when I 
>> have to walk it more than a few feet. But if you're "going" a lot more than 
>> you're wheeling (or riding below 5 MPH), it's a good value.
>>
>> -Sam
>> On Saturday, July 30, 2022 at 1:20:51 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Brian and Jeffrey. 
>>>
>>> I'm afraid that the Sinewave Beacon is out; I need something with 
>>> German-spec (or, generally, traffic-appropriate) beam shape. The S Beacon 
>>> must be much like my K-Lite: wonderfully bright, but it just blasts the 
>>> light out there.*
>>>
>>> The B IQ X seems the darling: German beam, very bright, very broad, 
>>> good standlight, metal case, and half the price of the Edeluxe. What's not 
>>> to like? I'll be interested in others' opinions.
>>>
>>> Really, the Edeluxe 1 is quite enough for night commuting along familar 
>>> roads and paths, even in full darkness and with my poor night vision, but 
>>> turning dark corners at speed is anxious-making. And I generally mount a 
>>> good battery headlight for occasional use, which serves at the longer stop 
>>> lights. Still, for now, the IQ X is at the top of the list.
>>>
>>> Aside: I remember the IQ Fly: wonderful compared to my Sanyo and other 
>>> bottle dynamos + incandescent headlights, but man! How weak compared to the 
>>> Edeluxe!
>>>
>>> OTOH, I did use a 12 volt very high end and very expensive ($300 20 
>>> years ago?) bottle + mating incandescent halogen headlight. This was as 
>>> bright as many top line LED lights from 20 years ago.
>>>
>>> *Last March I rode home from church at 8:30 or 9 pm in a sudden heavy 
>>> snowfall. The K-lite just blasted photons out into the cosmic void and all 
>>> the jolly wet big snowflakes cheerfully blasted them back at me. I could 
>>> see almost nothing beyond the bar unless I rode with 1 hand cupping the top 
>>> of the beam.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:39 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
 The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ 
 something or another, again, no longer made.

>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Pancake]

Jason, I bet the long arm v-brakes are a big improvement; Paul components 
only maximizing that difference, but I'm sure the T610 or Alivio v-brake 
arms would work a charm with any linear / long pull levers. 
I used Jagwire "pro compressionless" housing which gives that firm feeling 
on my other bikes, but not on the charles with the short pull mini-v's.

If I find myself with more time to wrench than to ride I'll swap on the 
Albatross bars with some standard v-brakes / levers and let everyone know; 
but I'm sure it will be nearly as nice as your Paul setup as far as firm 
stopping and feel. 

As is, I have VERY firm stopping power but the feel is ... squishy at the 
lever. But more than enough power at the brakes to make the tires skid and 
quickly. 

On Monday, 2 May 2022 at 09:20:13 UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:

> I don't find my rear V-brake to be all that spongy to be honest. Maybe 
> it's the Paul lever and arms - but more likely it's just about good brake 
> housing. Full length housing is always squishier, of course, but I don't 
> see how putting caliper brakes on solves the problem - just reducing 
> braking power to reduce housing compression?? Not to mention adding MORE 
> overall flex through flexier brake arms.. 
>
>
> On Mon, May 2, 2022 at 9:13 AM Eric Daume  wrote:
>
>> Mini V brakes seem like a lost middle ground IMO. Either use V brakes 
>> with long pull levers, or cantis with short pull levers. 
>>
>> Either one of these option would be far better than long reach caliper 
>> brakes, which are too flexy for good braking.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Monday, May 2, 2022, Pancake  wrote:
>>
> I want canti posts because I want v-brakes on this bike. The reference in 
>>> a prior email or blagh or somewhere by Riv said something like, 'they left 
>>> to spongy or squishy or something' ... and they're right. At least on my 
>>> 57cm prototype. 
>>>
>>> I tried the Shimano BR-R353 with 90mm long arms ... way too soft a feel 
>>> at the brake levers (using TRP RRL brakes). Needed to setup the pads less 
>>> than 2mm from the rim on each side which leaves no room for less than true 
>>> rims. And the brake levers pull all the way to the handlebar ... though 
>>> they brake plenty hard and strong way before that point. The braking is 
>>> nearly too easy (tremendous mechanical advantage) but feels easy or soft as 
>>> you pull. 
>>>
>>> Switching to an 84mm arm Tektro brake helped but not dramatically, just 
>>> noticeably. 
>>>
>>> Switching to 82mm Litepro arms helped enough that I'll stay with this 
>>> setup, but it's still a bit soft. And there not much of any room left for 
>>> the brake cable to clear the 50mm knobbie tires I have on now (Schwalbe 
>>> G-One Allround). 
>>>
>>> I'm used to v-brakes feeling pretty solid as you pull the lever, that's 
>>> how my Rosco baby bike and nearly every other v-braked bike I've owned 
>>> operated. Solid pressure at the fingers as you pull and hit a point where 
>>> you can't pull more (and the brake pads were engaged fully long before that 
>>> pull point regardless). 
>>>
>>> I bet a 75mm brake arm v-brake and a 38mm tire would work with the 
>>> pressure and pull feel I expect, but that's not an option as far as I know 
>>> (or want).
>>>
>>> *Ultimately I'll probably do what Jason did and switch to upright bars 
>>> and linear pull long arm v-brakes. Right now I have swapped some levers and 
>>> a stem on my Albatross bars (mounted upside down so they drop a bit like 
>>> the Albastash (which the protocharlie arrived with) and I expect that (plus 
>>> some MX70 brake arms) would leave me with the expected brake feel. I'm on 
>>> the lookout for 60mm wide, 25.4mm clamp diameter Tosco bars to try instead 
>>> *(I 
>>> have 55cm Toscos but they're happy on the Cheviot for now). 
>>>
>>> Perhaps it's just my setup or bike, but the brake posts seem to be 
>>> offset by about 2mm (requiring a spacer switch on the pads to make up the 
>>> difference) which makes the narrow clearance of the pads on short pull 
>>> v-brake arms even more cumbersome.
>>>
>>> Love the Charlie ride feel though - best of the Cheviot (probably from 
>>> the long stays and low step over) and the Sam (accelerates even quicker, 
>>> just feels fast in a way the Cheviot doesn't even though my chev has 42mm 
>>> smooth basketball tires and the Charles has 50mm knobbies). 
>>>
>>> Very happy with the Charles, but I suspect absent some meanin

Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Pancake]

I want canti posts because I want v-brakes on this bike. The reference in a 
prior email or blagh or somewhere by Riv said something like, 'they left to 
spongy or squishy or something' ... and they're right. At least on my 57cm 
prototype. 

I tried the Shimano BR-R353 with 90mm long arms ... way too soft a feel at 
the brake levers (using TRP RRL brakes). Needed to setup the pads less than 
2mm from the rim on each side which leaves no room for less than true rims. 
And the brake levers pull all the way to the handlebar ... though they 
brake plenty hard and strong way before that point. The braking is nearly 
too easy (tremendous mechanical advantage) but feels easy or soft as you 
pull. 

Switching to an 84mm arm Tektro brake helped but not dramatically, just 
noticeably. 

Switching to 82mm Litepro arms helped enough that I'll stay with this 
setup, but it's still a bit soft. And there not much of any room left for 
the brake cable to clear the 50mm knobbie tires I have on now (Schwalbe 
G-One Allround). 

I'm used to v-brakes feeling pretty solid as you pull the lever, that's how 
my Rosco baby bike and nearly every other v-braked bike I've owned 
operated. Solid pressure at the fingers as you pull and hit a point where 
you can't pull more (and the brake pads were engaged fully long before that 
pull point regardless). 

I bet a 75mm brake arm v-brake and a 38mm tire would work with the pressure 
and pull feel I expect, but that's not an option as far as I know (or want).

*Ultimately I'll probably do what Jason did and switch to upright bars and 
linear pull long arm v-brakes. Right now I have swapped some levers and a 
stem on my Albatross bars (mounted upside down so they drop a bit like the 
Albastash (which the protocharlie arrived with) and I expect that (plus 
some MX70 brake arms) would leave me with the expected brake feel. I'm on 
the lookout for 60mm wide, 25.4mm clamp diameter Tosco bars to try instead *(I 
have 55cm Toscos but they're happy on the Cheviot for now). 

Perhaps it's just my setup or bike, but the brake posts seem to be offset 
by about 2mm (requiring a spacer switch on the pads to make up the 
difference) which makes the narrow clearance of the pads on short pull 
v-brake arms even more cumbersome.

Love the Charlie ride feel though - best of the Cheviot (probably from the 
long stays and low step over) and the Sam (accelerates even quicker, just 
feels fast in a way the Cheviot doesn't even though my chev has 42mm smooth 
basketball tires and the Charles has 50mm knobbies). 

Very happy with the Charles, but I suspect absent some meaningful changes 
(that I suspect would make it less road-ish) the canti arms as on the 
prototypes were not quite right. If this were meant for upright bars and 
standard linear pull v-brakes I bet they'd have had an easy decision to 
stick with canti-posts, but for a bike meant for drop bars I can see why 
they went the other way.  
On Monday, 2 May 2022 at 04:10:50 UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:

> Thanks for the review I enjoyed it! I think you are right about the canti 
> posts but I suspect it is much too late to change it.
>
> On Monday, 2 May 2022 at 12:24:02 UTC+8 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> I started a review of mine, to pay back the privilege of owning one 
>> already!  I haven't so much as proofread it, let alone edit it, so bear 
>> that in mind 
>>
>>
>> https://www.jasonmytail.com/75-day-700km-review-rivendell-charlie-h-gallop/
>>
>> On Saturday, 12 March 2022 at 17:45:11 UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I love both of these builds. I can imagine the Albatross work well. I 
>>> enjoyed running Billie bars on mine.
>>> On Saturday, March 12, 2022 at 8:39:14 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
>>>> Very nice Abe! I can believe it on the climbing - the long rear end 
>>>> makes a world of a difference for climbing, I find! 
>>>>
>>>> Not much has changed on mine since I last posted it - the Albatross 
>>>> bars feel perfect on this bike for me, even though it's suited to drops or 
>>>> moustache bars. Granted, I'm using it a bit differently than intended too. 
>>>> I've put a used dynamo front wheel on and am embracing the mismatched 
>>>> wheels. Here's a pic of it on my way to donate some excess tires and parts 
>>>> to the local non-profit bike shop today. No plans to change a thing! I'll 
>>>> put some RH Barlow Pass endurance on eventually, but I want to wear these 
>>>> out first 
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Mar 11, 2022 at 4:44 PM Pancake  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Here's my 57cm prototype Charlie update and build:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/DUpFlP27OE4/m/HZb6bU5XBAAJ
>>>>> [ima

[RBW] Re: That new rear derailer

[Pancake]

>From the Blahh:
“Yesterday our first sample rear derailer was sent to us from ye olde 
People's Republic of China, made by the same people who've made the 
derailers many of you are riding with now, assuming they are not Shimano or 
Microshift or Campagnolo. They made it according to our design, which 
borrowed some of its geometry from Shimano's Rapid Rise derailers, which I 
ordinarily wouldn't do, but justify now because Shimano has discontinued 
this style of derailer, and it's too good to be extinct. If Shimano decides 
to make them again, which NO WAY, they'd have to do it before we sink tons 
of money and have to stop and disappoint the factory and lose all kinds of 
international face. It's complicated. Nobody in Taiwan is interested. 
Nobody in America is capable beyond "theoretically." It sure can't happen 
in Europe. A small CNC machinist is not going to do it, assembly and all, 
for less than a price to us that would mean a price to you of less than 
$800. So please don't punch up at your beloved Rivendell or an unbeloved me 
for "going to China."  China is the only way these are gonna get made 
before Kingdom Come. Your buddy the machinist is not capable of making one 
of these in a form and with a price that will work.”

I’ll also be ordering at least one of these. I’ve wasted enough dollars and 
hours trying to find a RD that will fit a 11-40t cassettes and keep the 
chain tight with a double crankset (46/30t). This looks like a shinny 
silver bullet solution for a fair price. 

Does it look like a 11t jockey and 13t pulley?

On Friday, 29 April 2022 at 17:22:13 UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Big pulley and rapid rise. Gonna buy a couple of these.
> [image: Screen Shot 2022-04-29 at 8.21.30 PM.png]
>

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Re: [RBW] Introducing the Charlie H Gallop Protovelo

[Pancake]

Johny: yes, my friend was quick on the draw and got it for me because they 
knew it was my ideal version of a Charlie - gotta have those canti/v-brake 
posts. It’ll end up replacing my Sam Hillborne. 

Now Charlie’s sitting (ironically with no saddle) in my garage waiting for 
a few quick changes (replace the C15 narrow saddle with my Flyer imperial, 
add a rack and basket) before getting some commuter duty and a nice long 
ride next weekend… then more tinkering and changes to follow like:
• Mini v-brakes (likely Shimano BR R353 with 90mm arch, taller than the Box 
Two or Three 85mm mini v’s), 
• Swapping for my Hillborne’s wheelset (first wheels I built) with G-One 
Allround 50mm tires
• Dynamo lights, 
• 46/30t double crankset to a 11-40t cassette (which may require a 
wolftooth-like hanger extender), and 
• Kona Wah Wah pedals. 

Now I just need some spare time for wrenching … but I’ll probably spend 
that time riding my daughters around in the Rosco Baby bike instead. The 
highest form of productive procrastination.

Abe

On Friday, 11 February 2022 at 16:51:41 UTC-8 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Pancake, so you got the third Gallop V1 prototype?
>
> On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 7:18:18 PM UTC-5 Pancake wrote:
>
>> Drop bar Sam checking in per David's request/comment ... soon to be 
>> replaced by another Proto Charlie (photos of that orange 57cm to come 
>> later).
>> [image: IMG_3134.JPG]
>> [image: IMG_7170.jpg]
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] WTB - Clem L 45

[Pancake]

These 45cm Clem L models are pretty rare (in my time searching) as they fit 
the smallest possible riv riders. 
If someone finds a second 45cm Clem L please let me know too. 
Abe

On Tuesday, 18 January 2022 at 09:43:54 UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Clem Smith Jr. H
> 52cm
> Walled Lake, MI
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/175066323016
>
>
> Clem Smith Jr.
> 52cm
> Athens, GA
>
> https://athensga.craigslist.org/bik/d/athens-rivendell-clem-smith-jr/7430832354.html
>
>
> Clem Smith L
> (contact seller for size)
> MIdland, MI
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/659143348411672
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 18, 2022, at 5:28 AM, Richard Rose  wrote:
>
> > 8:13 am & we have the post of the day. No contest. Must be a great Dad & 
> obviously a great son. I hope you find that Clem.
> > 
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> >> On Jan 18, 2022, at 8:13 AM, James Valiensi  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Hi,
> >> Looking for a small Clem for my 82 year old dad.
> >> Please let me know.
> >> Thanks
> >> 
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Re: [RBW] New Roadinis will have clearance for 42 mm tires

[Pancake]

I was excited for a Charles H Gallop too, but no v-brakes means I’m out. 
Wish I could snag that prototype, because that is just an ideal setup. 

But the Sam Hillborne also started with long reach brakes (like mine) and 
eventually made its way to canti/V-brake posts so hopefully CHG goes the 
same way and sooner than later. 

Abe

On Sunday, 16 January 2022 at 09:38:06 UTC-8 Eric Daume wrote:

> Yeah, I was really looking forward to the CHG, but the long reach brakes 
> kill it for me. 
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Sunday, January 16, 2022, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>
>> I am a little shocked that they are apparently bringing that change over 
>> to the Charlie Gallop too. Instead of the V-brake/cantilever setup that the 
>> previous prototype had. Since they are designing their own V brakes that 
>> look to be quite nice it seems that they would push the bikes toward that. 
>> The only reason I can think that they would make that change is because 
>> sidepulls are a little more common on road style bikes. But making a 
>> decision based only on aesthetics seems counter to how Rivendell normally 
>> does things.
>>
>> On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 11:48:38 AM UTC-5 Linda G wrote:
>>
>>> I'm so glad I bought my Roadini frame before this change! The 559 brakes 
>>> do not work for me: poor power in dry conditions and unusable in wet. I 
>>> find that 33mm tires have plenty of cush and 42's would probably create toe 
>>> overlap on a 50 size frame. I'm grateful to have found a Rivendell frame 
>>> that works for me. 
>>> [image: DSC00040.JPG]
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 14, 2022 at 9:46:12 PM UTC-8 Eamon Nordquist wrote:
>>>
 I saw today the announcement that the new Roadinis are niw designed for 
 R559 brakes and will easily clear 42 mm tires. Good news, as far as I’m 
 concerned! The only thing I am slightly sad about is that they aren’t 
 coming in grilver, which is THE color for the Roadini, in my opinion. That 
 may be influenced by my love for the silver gray imron paint on early 80’s 
 Treks. Regardless, if I have a  job by then, I may have to get one.

 Eamon
 Seattle 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Microshift thumb shifters with Tosco / Bosco

[Pancake]

Not aeroI extensions but bar end extensions, just mounted inward of the 
grips/brakes levers … it’s like having an “on the hoods” position that’s 
 more forward … but on my wide upright bars that are more “sit up and beg” 
by nature. Strongly recommended. 

On Sunday, 16 January 2022 at 15:53:19 UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thank You! Helpful. What are those aero extensions? 
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 16, 2022, at 1:14 PM, Pancake  wrote:
>
> Sunrace and Silver shifters mounted on Boscos and Toscos on a few 
> different bikes (Sam Hillborne, Cheviot, Rosco Baby):
>
>
> https://imgur.com/a/okkbnmI
>
> Abe
> On Saturday, 15 January 2022 at 15:34:20 UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Microshift thumb shifters. I like them! Where do most folks place them on 
>> your Tosco / Bosco bars? Mine are on top about one inch beyond the first 
>> downward bend ahead of the grips / brake levers.  The shifting from this 
>> location is ok if you are not in a hurry, which I basically am not. They 
>> (shifters) provide a nice "stop" when I want to slide my hands slightly 
>> forward of the grips. But, the shifters make sliding further down the bar a 
>> little difficult. Does anyone rotate the shifters to be in a position 
>> closer to modern triggers so that you do not need to move your hands to 
>> shift? I guess bar ends would accomplish this?
>
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> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Microshift thumb shifters with Tosco / Bosco

[Pancake]

Sunrace and Silver shifters mounted on Boscos and Toscos on a few different 
bikes (Sam Hillborne, Cheviot, Rosco Baby):

https://imgur.com/a/okkbnmI

Abe
On Saturday, 15 January 2022 at 15:34:20 UTC-8 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Microshift thumb shifters. I like them! Where do most folks place them on 
> your Tosco / Bosco bars? Mine are on top about one inch beyond the first 
> downward bend ahead of the grips / brake levers.  The shifting from this 
> location is ok if you are not in a hurry, which I basically am not. They 
> (shifters) provide a nice "stop" when I want to slide my hands slightly 
> forward of the grips. But, the shifters make sliding further down the bar a 
> little difficult. Does anyone rotate the shifters to be in a position 
> closer to modern triggers so that you do not need to move your hands to 
> shift? I guess bar ends would accomplish this?

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[RBW] Re: Welder to add v-brake posts in SF Bay Area / Napa?

[Pancake]

Thanks Irving and Bill (and off list responder). 
I send Erik a message (also recommended by another reader off list) and 
will try Ed too.

Hopefully this means I’m all set, but I am curious if anyone else has more 
recommendations … keep ‘em coming!

Thanks for the quick help,
Abe 

On Thursday, 13 January 2022 at 15:42:24 UTC-8 Irving wrote:

> Hey Abe,
>
> I would highly recommend Erik Billings out of Oakland (Instagram 
> <https://www.instagram.com/billings_cycle_works/>/Website 
> <https://www.billingscycleworks.com/contact>). Very easy to contact and 
> deal with.
>
> He did some surgery on a Crust Bombora 
> <https://www.instagram.com/p/CWgumKXhCZk/> that I'm looking forward to 
> building up soon.
>
> -Irving
> SF, CA
>
> On Thursday, January 13, 2022 at 1:15:45 PM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I've had work of that kind done by Ed Litton, but I kind of know Ed, and 
>> have had quick turnaround.  Others tell me that he has literally hundreds 
>> of repair frames in his shop right now, which I imagine is multiple years 
>> worth of work.  I want to take a the welding series of classes at Laney in 
>> Oakland.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, January 13, 2022 at 12:00:33 PM UTC-8 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> Looking to add v-brake posts to my Sam Hillborne and Cheviot (jealous of 
>>> those Platys).
>>> *I need a bike frame builder / welder who can add them and is not too 
>>> busy. Any recommendations? Preferably near Napa, *but I can go a hour 
>>> away for a good builder. 
>>>
>>> I tried John of Fitz Bikes in Santa Rosa but he's busy with frames (as 
>>> he should be). Tried Jim G Racks on instagram but haven't heard back for a 
>>> while. 
>>> I don't need someone to paint the burned up sections after, I'll handle 
>>> that myself.
>>>
>>> Any other recommendations? 
>>>
>>> Take care,
>>> Abe in Napa
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Welder to add v-brake posts in SF Bay Area / Napa?

[Pancake]

Looking to add v-brake posts to my Sam Hillborne and Cheviot (jealous of 
those Platys).
*I need a bike frame builder / welder who can add them and is not too busy. 
Any recommendations? Preferably near Napa, *but I can go a hour away for a 
good builder. 

I tried John of Fitz Bikes in Santa Rosa but he's busy with frames (as he 
should be). Tried Jim G Racks on instagram but haven't heard back for a 
while. 
I don't need someone to paint the burned up sections after, I'll handle 
that myself.

Any other recommendations? 

Take care,
Abe in Napa

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Re: [RBW] FS: Brooks B68, Terry Liberator X Gel Saddles

[Pancake]

Hi Emily,
The "short" B68 apparently measures:
Length: 230mm
Width: 200mm
Though some sites list it at 235mm x 205mm. 

Saddles both look to be in great shape - good luck with the sale. 
Abe


On Friday, 26 November 2021 at 20:11:38 UTC-8 Emily Guise wrote:

> Hey all, my apologies, I totally forgot to say that the B68 is the shorter 
> S model, not the regular length. 
>
> Emily
>
> On Friday, November 26, 2021 at 7:15:57 PM UTC-8 kay...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi! Is the B68 still for sale?
>>
>> On Nov 26, 2021, at 8:21 PM, Emily Guise  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Hello friends! After trying a bunch of saddles, I've finally found some 
>> that work for me. Sadly, that doesn't include these two, so they're up for 
>> sale. Both are lightly used and in excellent shape, with their original 
>> packaging for each. Buyer would pay shipping costs. Lots of photos of both 
>> saddles here 
>> 
>> .
>>
>> If interested, email me off list at emilykguise (at) gmail (dot) com. 
>> Thanks!
>>
>> *Black Brooks B68 Imperial.* This is NOS. I put two light coats of 
>> Obenauf's on it but it is definitely not broken in as my butt can attest. 
>> Textured leather top, steel rails, bag loops. Measures 260mm long and 210mm 
>> wide. $75 plus shipping (I originally paid $95)
>>
>> *Terry Liberator X Gel.* Such a nice saddle but just too narrow for me. 
>> Synthetic cover with a little bit of gel for a slightly softer saddle for 
>> long rides (emphasis on slightly). Steel rails, measures 249mm long and 
>> 163mm wide. Full specs on the Terry site here 
>> . $60 plus shipping (I 
>> originally paid $82)
>>
>>
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS Clem and Clementine

[Pancake]

Am I right to think the "small" Clementine is the same as a 45cm Clem L?
Abe

On Friday, 29 October 2021 at 13:29:05 UTC-7 El Sapo wrote:

> Bump, 52 Clem and a small Clementine in the California Bay Area 
>
> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 5:38:53 PM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> Those look new! 
>> Doug
>>
>> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 8:14:35 PM UTC-4 ack...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Where are you located?  Beautiful bikes!
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 4:32:25 PM UTC-7 El Sapo wrote:
>>>
 [image: clementine2.jpg]

 On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 4:08:29 PM UTC-7 El Sapo wrote:

> [image: clem1.jpg]
>
> On Friday, October 15, 2021 at 12:07:30 PM UTC-7 El Sapo wrote:
>
>> Clem is a medium in blue, and Clementine is a small in black. Both 
>> are from the first shipment of full build Clem Smith Jr bikes. They are 
>> both in "Like New" condition. The Clem has a brooks saddle and light 
>> weight 
>> Rene Herse tires. The Clementine is stock.  
>>
>> Giving the RBW Owners Bunch first shot.
>>
>> $2K each.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Need inspiration: Show me your wrapped handlebars, please?

[Pancake]

I’m planning to do the four color wrap, but it wasn’t too easy to find 
directions online, here are my notes from a search last month:

The best directions:
https://imgur.com/a/lGGeb

>From Flickr, "that appears to be a 4-tape weave" here 

1 White
1 Black
2 Orange

Yes; just tried it. The two same-colored strands (orange in this case) go 
parallel, and the accent colors (white and black here) go antiparallel to 
the orange (and parallel to each other). It's an over-under-over-under 
weave--each strand takes that course.

Actually believe it or not, it's simpler to make look good than the normal 
2-strand 2-color variety, because since each strand does not wrap next to 
itself on the next revolution, you can use more of an angle to the bar, 
producing a nicer diamond shape, and all colors have nice even diamonds. I 
think it doesn't even cost as much more as one might think (assuming you 
get a roll size of at least 8 or 9 feet) because each strand covers almost 
twice the bar as on the two-strand variety, so you only have to buy *1* of 
each color and then you cut the main color (orange here) in half to obtain 
the necessary two strands per side.

In fact this weave is so much nicer than the 2-strand variety, I would 
recommend using it even for a two-color harlequin, using two strands of 
each color. AND, for a sparser (perhaps less garish) look, you can do 3 
strands of one color and 1 strand of the accent, producing few more widely 
spaced accent diamonds.

See post #13 here 

:

2 color video :

Good examples and directions on 2 color tape and starting 
:

Another good 2 color tape guide 


On Saturday, 23 October 2021 at 16:25:08 UTC-7 Tom M wrote:

> [image: 65076308421__991D1118-34A0-4AB4-BB1D-ED920F9167B7.jpeg]
> Velo Orange tape on my single speed. Very cushy and pretty easy to wrap.
> Tom in Alexandria, VA
> On Saturday, October 23, 2021 at 6:34:14 PM UTC-4 kwi...@weimar.edu wrote:
>
>> How do you guys keep the bar tape so clean?  
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 5:50 AM lconley  wrote:
>>
>>> My two tone blue on drops - my first attempt at harlequin wrapping. Not 
>>> the best picture, but the only one that I have.
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1754 (2).JPG]
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 23, 2021 at 8:39:40 AM UTC-4 sof...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I've enjoyed the newbaum cotton wrapped handlebars on my platy so much 
 that I am going get them on my riv blue clem! Anyone care to share pics of 
 yours? Looking for some color inspo (i.e. wavering between something 
 elegant and subdued like dark blue, grey, or brown -- to something more 
 striking like orange or even hot pink).
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Silver2 lever on Microshift bar end pod? If not Microshift, then what?

[Pancake]

18 hours later and I realized Riv actually sells a reasonably priced ($30) 
silver shifter pod that is perfect so I ordered that (and gave up on 
fitting this to the Microshift pod). 

Next is trying out different rear derailers: unsatisfied with the Shimano 
M591 (never shifted quite right on the Sam, too loose with bouncy chain so 
seeking a clutch), considered the following alternatives:

   - *SRAM GX 10 speed* with shifter mod'd to work my 9-speed cassettes ... 
   nice to have a clutch (really, it helped with the chain bouncing around and 
   make settling into a given gear more solid in my friction shifting setup) 
   but the b-limit screw and everything it touches failed over a year or so 
   (screw bent, stopper bent and loose, screw and mount both stripped, mount 
   on the derailer the b-screw tensions through also bent somehow!).
   - *Microshift Advent 9* speed ... just installed, lots of cable to pull 
   to move that thing! With my mod'd microshift lever (added a brass strip to 
   the chain guide channel to make it pull enough for the SRAM 10 speed 
   derailer cable pull), PLUS the jTek cable pull modifier (6 I think) it 
   works well, but that's a ton of cable pull plus an expensive widget to make 
   it work (jTek). 
   - *Sunrace RD-M900 *I wish it was available in a long cage (the mid-cage 
   seems to be the only model, and even that is rarely available), a 9-speed 
   derailer with clutch for $44 would be great if it could wrap a bit more 
   chain (mid capacity is 40t, presumably a long would wrap maybe 45-47t).
   - *Box Components Two or Three *- they makes a few but they are for 1x 
   systems so they don't have enough chain wrap capacity for my Sam (46/30t 
   double chainrings, 11-40t 9 speed cassette = 45t+ chain wrap needed) at 
   only 39t capacity (e.g., a 11-50t cassette).

*Any other recommendations welcome for a rear derailer that includes:*

   - Clutch (or high tension)
   - 45+ chain wrap capacity
   - 40t largest cog (though up to 46 would be nice I guess)
   - 9 speed compatible-ish (seems like most 8 or 10 speed systems work 
   where not indexing)
   - Silver would be ideal but is rare.

*Anyone found such a unicorn?*

Abe

On Sunday, 3 October 2021 at 14:12:52 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> I have Microshift 9-speed bar end shifters (R9 series, model BS-T09) that 
> work well enough, but I want to swap on a Silver2 O shifter.* Is this 
> possible with some modifications, or do I need to get a new bar end pod?*
>
> I tried installing the Silver2 shifter lever and ran into a couple 
> problems fitting it onto the Microshift bar end pod:
> 1. There's a half-circle notch on the pod side (on the square offset), 
> I'll just file that off, easy.
> 2. The nut (or "post") on the Microshift pod is too tall for the Silver2, 
> and the bolt that came with the Silver2 is too short. I can add enough 
> spacers/washers to somehow kludge this together, but there must be a better 
> way.
> 3. The cable guide (rounded out section the cable rests in) lines up too 
> far toward the center of the bike while the cable entry point of the pod is 
> too far from the center of the bike ... see the photos.
> Here's the quick way I rigged it up to see if it would fit at all, I can 
> make it fit but it's not really aligned: 
> [image: IMG_0182.jpg]
> [image: IMG_0185.jpg]
>
> If I need a new bar end pod (and I don't want to shell out for the Dura 
> Ace model), what options are there? Does the SunRace work? 
>
> Thanks,
> Abe
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain Hack

[Pancake]

Hey Joe, thanks for the great ride route last weekend. 
I ordered the Advient 9 long cage clutch derailer (to replace the SRAM GX 
10 speed that gave me trouble last ride - bent and stripped b-limit screw 
lead to stripped threads in the derailer itself, fixed now [with new m4 
bolt and some lock nuts] but still leaves much to be desired). 
I'll report back after installing and riding it for a while. If that 
doesn't work my next rear derailers to try will be:
Sunrace RD-M900 ($44 clutch 9 speed medium cage with 2x capacity up to 46t 
and 1x capacity up to 51t)
Box Components Three Prime 9 X-Wide ($75) or Two ($125) - also with clutch, 
similar or same capacity.

Forever trying to get the ideal rear derailer with friction shifter,
Abe
On Tuesday, 10 December 2019 at 09:58:26 UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Sorry Abe, the stock drivetrain is too good to change on my mustard Clem 
> H, plus I'm leaning towards selling that bike when the custom gets here so 
> don't want to muck it up too much. The Advent stuff with indexed shifter 
> may see duty on the custom. 

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[RBW] Re: Parts bin clean out: Nitto S65, Shimano derailers, R599 front brakes, Schwalbe G-one Speed tires, ergon, pletscher, sunrace

[Pancake]

Nitto S65 seatpostand MKS pedals are sold.
Two Fish bottle cage and HG200 cassette pending sale
Random cranks, Tange BB, and v-brakes set pending



On Sunday, 5 September 2021 at 12:34:32 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> [image: BC931D82-73D8-46EE-8B71-B5F1460B96E0.jpeg]Schwalbe  G-One Speed 
> tires:
> Pair of 700 x 38mm - moderate wear (maybe 400 miles?)  ($75)
> Pair of 650b x 60mm - new ($100)
>
>
> On Sunday, 5 September 2021 at 11:44:44 UTC-7 Hetchins52 wrote:
>
>> Email sent on MKS pedals, Alivio rear and Ergon grips.
>> What size G-One Speed tires?
>> Thanks,
>> David Lipsky
>> Berkeley
>>
>> On Sunday, September 5, 2021 at 10:15:49 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> These are all bits that were on or meant for my Rivendells (Sam, 
>>> Cheviot, Rosco Baby) or similar bikes (Jamis steel frame bikes since 
>>> donated to friends). Links to Craigslist posts with some more details and 
>>> PHOTOS. Price is before shipping, local pick up (in SF Bay Area, *Napa*, 
>>> Sonoma, or Berkeley) is preferred. 
>>>
>>> Make me an offer for multiples or if my prices seem off. 
>>>
>>> Seat Post: Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow 27.2mm x 250mm long - zig zag marks 
>>> on the lower half of the post from inserting/removing it. *($40* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-seat-post-nitto-s65-crystal-fellow/7375614685.html>
>>> *)*
>>>
>>> Cassettes:  
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-cassettes-sunrace-11-speed-11-46t/7375631700.html>
>>>
>>>- Sunrace MX8 NEW 11 speed, Silver, 11-46t ($60)
>>>- Shimano LIKE NEW CS-HG200, 9-Speed, 11-32 teeth *($10)*
>>>
>>> Bike Mirror 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mirrycle-mountain-bike-mirror/7375627310.html>
>>> : Mirrycle Mountain *($7* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mirrycle-mountain-bike-mirror/7375627310.html>
>>> *)*
>>>
>>> Bottom brackets:  
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>
>>>
>>>- *2 x *Shimano UN55 
>>>
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>
>>> - 68 x 110mm  
>>>
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>
>>>*($15)*
>>>- Tange BB 68 x 107mm - *($* 
>>>
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>*1
>>>  
>>>with any other item)*
>>>
>>> Tektro Cable Hanger, *new* in the bag, 1" with barrel adjuster, 
>>> cantilever *($6* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-new-tektro-cable-hanger-with/7375624069.html>
>>> *)*
>>>
>>> Derailers: 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-derailleurs-shimano-tiagra-and/7375622041.html>
>>>
>>>- Shimano Tiagra 
>>>
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-derailleurs-shimano-tiagra-and/7375622041.html>
>>>  Silver RD-4500 
>>>9-speed long cage *($15)* - if this fits your cassette or you want 
>>>to use with a roadlink extender, it's a very nice polished looking 
>>>derailer, I'd use a melamine sponge to remove the branding for full 
>>> silver 
>>>polished look.
>>>- Alivio rear RD-M4000 -  
>>>
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-derailleurs-shimano-tiagra-and/7375622041.html>
>>>*($15)* - came off a nearly unused Kona Coco, nice chain wrap and 
>>>gear range.
>>>- Suntour front derailer double road - worked nicely to shift a 
>>>46/30t double crankset. *($5)*
>>>
>>> Delta Cycle Stem Raiser Riser Pro Extender Head Up *($10* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-delta-cycle-bike-bicycle-stem/7375605532.html>
>>> *)*
>>>
>>> MKS large toe clips pair - straps and bolts included *($15)* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mks-large-toe-clips-pair-straps/7375612757.html>
>>> MKS Sylvian touring pedals 9/16” *($20* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mks-sylvian-touring-pedals-16/7375610490.html>
>>> *)*
>>>
>>> TwoFish The Quick Vinyl Coated Cage *($10* 
>>> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-twofish-the-quick-vinyl-coated-cage/73

[RBW] Re: Parts bin clean out: Nitto S65, Shimano derailers, R599 front brakes, Schwalbe G-one Speed tires, ergon, pletscher, sunrace

[Pancake]

Updated to add a link with photos of the SKS P45 fenders for sale ($20) 
- 
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-bike-fenders-sks-p45-longboards/7376058451.html
Already some interest in the seatpost and pedals, locals please reach out 
so I can avoid the post office! 
Take care,
Abe

On Sunday, 5 September 2021 at 10:15:49 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> These are all bits that were on or meant for my Rivendells (Sam, Cheviot, 
> Rosco Baby) or similar bikes (Jamis steel frame bikes since donated to 
> friends). Links to Craigslist posts with some more details and PHOTOS. 
> Price is before shipping, local pick up (in SF Bay Area, *Napa*, Sonoma, 
> or Berkeley) is preferred. 
>
> Make me an offer for multiples or if my prices seem off. 
>
> Seat Post: Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow 27.2mm x 250mm long - zig zag marks on 
> the lower half of the post from inserting/removing it. *($40* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-seat-post-nitto-s65-crystal-fellow/7375614685.html>
> *)*
>
> Cassettes:  
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-cassettes-sunrace-11-speed-11-46t/7375631700.html>
>
>- Sunrace MX8 NEW 11 speed, Silver, 11-46t ($60)
>- Shimano LIKE NEW CS-HG200, 9-Speed, 11-32 teeth *($10)*
>
> Bike Mirror 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mirrycle-mountain-bike-mirror/7375627310.html>
> : Mirrycle Mountain *($7* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mirrycle-mountain-bike-mirror/7375627310.html>
> *)*
>
> Bottom brackets:  
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>
>
>- *2 x *Shimano UN55 
>
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>
> - 68 x 110mm  
>
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>
>*($15)*
>- Tange BB 68 x 107mm - *($* 
>
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-shimano-un55-bottom-brackets-two/7375625891.html>*1
>  
>with any other item)*
>
> Tektro Cable Hanger, *new* in the bag, 1" with barrel adjuster, 
> cantilever *($6* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-new-tektro-cable-hanger-with/7375624069.html>
> *)*
>
> Derailers: 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-derailleurs-shimano-tiagra-and/7375622041.html>
>
>- Shimano Tiagra 
>
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-derailleurs-shimano-tiagra-and/7375622041.html>
>  Silver RD-4500 
>9-speed long cage *($15)* - if this fits your cassette or you want to 
>use with a roadlink extender, it's a very nice polished looking derailer, 
>I'd use a melamine sponge to remove the branding for full silver polished 
>look.
>- Alivio rear RD-M4000 -  
>
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-derailleurs-shimano-tiagra-and/7375622041.html>
>*($15)* - came off a nearly unused Kona Coco, nice chain wrap and gear 
>range.
>- Suntour front derailer double road - worked nicely to shift a 46/30t 
>double crankset. *($5)*
>
> Delta Cycle Stem Raiser Riser Pro Extender Head Up *($10* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-delta-cycle-bike-bicycle-stem/7375605532.html>
> *)*
>
> MKS large toe clips pair - straps and bolts included *($15)* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mks-large-toe-clips-pair-straps/7375612757.html>
> MKS Sylvian touring pedals 9/16” *($20* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-mks-sylvian-touring-pedals-16/7375610490.html>
> *)*
>
> TwoFish The Quick Vinyl Coated Cage *($10* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-twofish-the-quick-vinyl-coated-cage/7375607549.html>
> *)*
>
> JTEK ShiftMate 6 - cable pull modifier *($40* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-jtek-shiftmate-cable-pull-modifier/7375587453.html>
> *)* - This model is for mating Shimano shifters with SRAM 1:1 derailleurs 
> or SRAM non-road shifters with Shimano derailleurs. It will also let you 
> run Shimano 10 speed road STI with Shimano MTN 10 Dyna-Sys derailleurs and 
> Shimano or SRAM cassettes.
>
> Sunrace v-brake levers silver from Rivendell *($20* 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-sunrace-brake-levers-silver-from/7375596978.html>
> *)* - V-brake linear pull levers. *Silver* model from Sunrace make for 
> Rivendell. Nearly new looking. Came on the used set of Tosco bars from 
> Rivendell a couple months ago. 
>
> Brakes: 
> <https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-bike-brakes-tektro-r559-front-avid/7375594043.html>
>
>- Tektro r559 - *two* FRONT brakes, side pull dual pi

[RBW] Re: 2020 Appaloosa Paint

[Pancake]

*I think I remember a video of Mark or Grant (found it here) 
 doing a repair like this: 
light blue frame that gets chips filled with blobs of red nail polish.* This 
is a "visible mending" repair which is awesome and becoming a style of 
sorts (more for clothing, see the last paragraph below). 

The only larger paint resource for Rivendells seems to be 
here: http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/color.html (referenced by Rivbike 
here: https://www.rivbike.com/pages/frame-colors-frame-colors)
And it does not have a particular color for Appaloosa's. 

That said, I have tried color matching on a few bikes by rolling it into a 
hobby shop and picking 2 or 3 testors colors then mixing and matching 
knowing that it won't quite be right. Always looks great from 6' away, easy 
to notice from 1' away. Worked GREAT on a Cheviot (orange) and just okay on 
a Hillborne (gray-blue). 

If you do your own paint repair with nail polish or testors paint, then I 
strongly recommend:
(1) fill the chip with thin layers of paint until it is just proud of the 
surface of the original paint. In other words, make that little paint blog 
that is too tall.
(2) Reduce it to level with the original paint using some mineral oil on a 
cloth that doesn't lose any threads - I use a credit card to give the cloth 
some consistent pressure to keep the paint smooth. This is more art than 
science. If you go completely wrong then just use a little more mineral oil 
to remove all the fresh paint and start over. 
This is better described by a company that sells what appears to be very 
expensive mineral oil:
http://www.langka.com/index.php/2013-01-31-22-19-00/2013-01-31-22-22-24/9-instructions/9-scratchesmethod1theoriginalmethod-drymethod

"*Visible mending" repairs are awesome*: 
https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/12/style/visible-mending.html. 
>From that article: "Showing off your patches, visible menders say, draws 
attention to the way a garment’s life span has been extended. It also 
subverts the notion, long held, that mended clothes are worn by the poor, 
while the height of luxury is buying a new wardrobe every season. 'We’re 
saying the opposite with our mended clothes,' Ms. Sekules said. 'The pride 
in the look of a mended thing, that’s pretty recent. That’s now.' "

Visible repairs show off that you use your bike while maybe acting as a 
minor theft deterrent, all good stuff. 

Stickers over chips also work nicely. 

Take care,
Abe


On Friday, 3 September 2021 at 09:13:41 UTC-7 André P wrote:

> I'm personally a fan of just doing clear nail polish to cover scratches as 
> it keeps it rust free and lets you not worry so much about the next time it 
> gets scratched.
>
> On Friday, September 3, 2021 at 8:46:57 AM UTC-7 David Hays wrote:
>
>> I foolishly forgot to set he limiting screws o the front derailleur of my 
>> orange 2020 Appaloosa before loaning it to my nephew to ride with me. He 
>> shifter beyond the small ring dropping the chain that wedged between the 
>> crank and the chain stay. My fault. Darn. 
>> Later at home I pulled the drive side releasing the chain and discovered 
>> a large gouge in the chain stay. Does anybody have an idea of the best 
>> Testor's or other match for the 2020 orange to touch it up and prevent 
>> rust? It's behind the smallest wheel of the crank so barely visible but I 
>> certainly don't want to neglect it.
>> Thanks.
>> David in Buffalo, New York
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Kickstand Recommendations

[Pancake]

Has a similar issue with 60mm Schwalbe Go-one Speed tires on my Rosco Baby 
bike - either of these double kickstands would work, I had the BV one 
around so that’s what I used:

BV Bike Kickstand, Center Mount Bicycle Stand - Length Adjustable, Foldable 
Double Leg for 24"-28" Bikes https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00LNLXML4/
VO Copenhagen double kickstand: 
ttps://velo-orange.com/products/vo-retractable-dual-leg-kickstand
On Monday, 30 August 2021 at 07:27:49 UTC-7 Marc Irwin wrote:

> I've been really happy with my Pletscher Zoom.  It is a one legged stand 
> so it won't interfere with the tire size.
>
> Marc
>
> On Monday, August 30, 2021 at 8:25:22 AM UTC-4 Bones wrote:
>
>> Here is my predicament: I used the Pletscher double kickstand on my old 
>> Appaloosa. It (barely) cleared the 50mm Cazaderos I had on there, but it 
>> did. On my new Appaloosa, it does not fit at all. So I tried the Flex 
>> single. That works for that size tire, but it rubs as soon as I put on a 
>> 2.25" tire. I tried a Soma double kickstand from another bike. It fits fine 
>> but it bounces around too much, even on pavement (and it is a little 
>> bulky). I do not want my kickstand to dictate my choice of tire. Does 
>> anyone have a recommendation for a kickstand that works on a newer 
>> Appaloosa with 2.25" tires? Preferably a double but I'm fine with a single.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bones
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto M174 or RM013 handlebar

[Pancake]

Somehow forgot to mentnion I have a pair of RM013 bars to sell, ha! 
Fair to call it very close to a noodle bar but with significant flare at 
the drops. 

I spent most my time on the hoods (70%+) with these. 
On Thursday, 12 August 2021 at 21:35:31 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> Currently on Soma Portola 52cm bars which are great (but only dialed in 
> 94%). Similar to RM-103 Dirt Drop 52cm (center to center), but more flair. 
> Road a friends 46cm Noodles for a while too. 
>
> My trend has been toward less drop, more width. But I don't seem to want 
> for anything wider. They look more and more like upside down Bosco bars. 
> Now I'm tempted to flip my Albatros bars upside down. 
>
> I also generally love my bar end extensions run on the inside of the bars 
> for a hood like position. 
>
> https://imgur.com/a/vF25RqQ
>
> Abe
> On Thursday, 12 August 2021 at 18:03:10 UTC-7 saintruggler wrote:
>
>> I am in search of a drop bar similar to the Noodle, but offered in 25.4 
>> clamp diameter and preferably as wide as possible (48-52cm target width). 
>> I’ve seen lots of comments and analysis on the M174 “Fairweather Allroad” 
>> bar and the RM013 “Dirt Drop” bar. Never tried either, but I rode the 
>> Noodle in 46cm for many years and would be looking for something similar. 
>>
>> I welcome any insights from folks with real-time experience with either 
>> of these bars. I also welcome alternative suggestions, provided that 
>> whatever you’re suggesting (A) actually exists and (B) can feasibly be 
>> purchased in the modern USA market. 
>>
>> Used is great, or new. Usage is for a touring/allroad build I’m doing. 
>> This will be my bike for longer, self-supported tours, and I generally 
>> prefer to ride 50% in the hoods and 50% in the drops using bar end 
>> shifters. So, relatively shallow drop so I don’t end up too stretched out, 
>> and with enough forward reach on the hoods to comfortably ride on the 
>> “ramps.” 
>>
>> What’ve y’all got? 
>>
>> Eric
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Nitto M174 or RM013 handlebar

[Pancake]

Currently on Soma Portola 52cm bars which are great (but only dialed in 
94%). Similar to RM-103 Dirt Drop 52cm (center to center), but more flair. 
Road a friends 46cm Noodles for a while too. 

My trend has been toward less drop, more width. But I don't seem to want 
for anything wider. They look more and more like upside down Bosco bars. 
Now I'm tempted to flip my Albatros bars upside down. 

I also generally love my bar end extensions run on the inside of the bars 
for a hood like position. 

https://imgur.com/a/vF25RqQ

Abe
On Thursday, 12 August 2021 at 18:03:10 UTC-7 saintruggler wrote:

> I am in search of a drop bar similar to the Noodle, but offered in 25.4 
> clamp diameter and preferably as wide as possible (48-52cm target width). 
> I’ve seen lots of comments and analysis on the M174 “Fairweather Allroad” 
> bar and the RM013 “Dirt Drop” bar. Never tried either, but I rode the 
> Noodle in 46cm for many years and would be looking for something similar.
>
> I welcome any insights from folks with real-time experience with either of 
> these bars. I also welcome alternative suggestions, provided that whatever 
> you’re suggesting (A) actually exists and (B) can feasibly be purchased in 
> the modern USA market.
>
> Used is great, or new. Usage is for a touring/allroad build I’m doing. 
> This will be my bike for longer, self-supported tours, and I generally 
> prefer to ride 50% in the hoods and 50% in the drops using bar end 
> shifters. So, relatively shallow drop so I don’t end up too stretched out, 
> and with enough forward reach on the hoods to comfortably ride on the 
> “ramps.”
>
> What’ve y’all got?
>
> Eric

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[RBW] Re: VO shifters to replace broken Suntour M90 thumb shifter?

[Pancake]

Thanks for the suggestions Michael. 

VO vs. Paul - I can make the difference of $30 for a Sunrace thumbie vs. 2 
VO shifter mounts for $70.  But $68 for a single Paul shifter mount is too 
steep for my commuter Cheviot. The VO seems to be a sweet spot in the 
middle of the price range and nice silver at that. 

Cable Pull Modifier: honestly, I didn't try it on this thumbie, but I 
needed added cable pull on A Microshift 9 speed bar end shifter so I 
figured I'd need it for this as well. I didn't get a jtek for that bar end 
shifter, I just installed a brass strip that's about 1mm thick and curved 
it around that cable guide of the shift lever to add to the cable pull 
ratio.  I'll try the SRAM GX 10 speed derailer without the cable pull 
modifier and report back! 

Anyone else have specific experience with the VO shift mounts working in 
this setup? 

Take care,
Abe

On Wednesday, 14 July 2021 at 07:08:47 UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> I haven't tried it myself but I believe the Velo Orange shifters look like 
> they would work. If you are using a Microshift lever, I would get a 
> Microshift thumbie from Paul though:
>
> https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/components/drivetrain/shifting/microshift-thumbies/
>
> Also, if you are doing friction shifting, why do you need the Jtek cable 
> pull modifier? 
>
> I have a Silver1 shifter on a thumbie with the GX10 clutch derailleur and 
> it works just fine without a cable pull modifier (running friction shifting 
> only).
>
> Good luck!
>
> M
>
> On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 7:59:12 PM UTC-4 Pancake wrote:
>
>> I should have mentioned which bike and bars and derailers:
>>
>> Cheviot 60cm 
>> Tosco 55cm bars. The shifters are mounted low (near the flat section of 
>> the handlebars where the stem attaches). 
>>
>> Front derailer: Shimano RX100 double (old, same pull as most others), 
>> probably FD-A551 model.
>> Rear derailer: SRAM GX 10 speed (but with a cable pull modifier from jtek)
>>
>> Front shifter: Sunrace M90, original shift lever.
>> Rear shifter: Sunrace M90, Silver2 shifter (upside down / on the right 
>> side but made for the front/left).
>>
>> Fun note: I got the old M90 shifter mount to work for now by taking 
>> installing a slightly longer bolt and it just punched through the aluminum 
>> mount and is holding nicely ... for now. 
>>
>> Take care,
>> Abe
>>
>> On Tuesday, 13 July 2021 at 13:56:42 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> My Suntour M90 shifter mount  broke, the mount threads are stripped 
>>>  (it’s the “left” / “front” 3 speed friction shifter but used upside down 
>>> on the right side / rear shifting). 
>>>
>>> Does anyone know if these Velo Orange shifter mounts would work as a 
>>> replacement? They would be shifted by a Silver2 lever that was already on 
>>> the right side (rear shifting).
>>>
>>> https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-thumb-shifter-mounts-22-2-23-8?variant=5064783_source=esc_medium=email_campaign=nowbackinstock
>>>
>>> Bonus question: the left/front mounted shifter mount would be using the 
>>> original Microshift shifter lever, any idea if the Velo orange mount would 
>>> also work with that? Or should I be in the market for a silver2  shifter 
>>> lever?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> Abe
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: VO shifters to replace broken Suntour M90 thumb shifter?

[Pancake]

I should have mentioned which bike and bars and derailers:

Cheviot 60cm 
Tosco 55cm bars. The shifters are mounted low (near the flat section of the 
handlebars where the stem attaches). 

Front derailer: Shimano RX100 double (old, same pull as most others), 
probably FD-A551 model.
Rear derailer: SRAM GX 10 speed (but with a cable pull modifier from jtek)

Front shifter: Sunrace M90, original shift lever.
Rear shifter: Sunrace M90, Silver2 shifter (upside down / on the right side 
but made for the front/left).

Fun note: I got the old M90 shifter mount to work for now by taking 
installing a slightly longer bolt and it just punched through the aluminum 
mount and is holding nicely ... for now. 

Take care,
Abe

On Tuesday, 13 July 2021 at 13:56:42 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> My Suntour M90 shifter mount  broke, the mount threads are stripped  (it’s 
> the “left” / “front” 3 speed friction shifter but used upside down on the 
> right side / rear shifting). 
>
> Does anyone know if these Velo Orange shifter mounts would work as a 
> replacement? They would be shifted by a Silver2 lever that was already on 
> the right side (rear shifting).
>
> https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-thumb-shifter-mounts-22-2-23-8?variant=5064783_source=esc_medium=email_campaign=nowbackinstock
>
> Bonus question: the left/front mounted shifter mount would be using the 
> original Microshift shifter lever, any idea if the Velo orange mount would 
> also work with that? Or should I be in the market for a silver2  shifter 
> lever?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Abe
>

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[RBW] VO shifters to replace broken Suntour M90 thumb shifter?

[Pancake]

My Suntour M90 shifter mount  broke, the mount threads are stripped  (it’s 
the “left” / “front” 3 speed friction shifter but used upside down on the 
right side / rear shifting). 

Does anyone know if these Velo Orange shifter mounts would work as a 
replacement? They would be shifted by a Silver2 lever that was already on 
the right side (rear shifting).
https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-thumb-shifter-mounts-22-2-23-8?variant=5064783_source=esc_medium=email_campaign=nowbackinstock

Bonus question: the left/front mounted shifter mount would be using the 
original Microshift shifter lever, any idea if the Velo orange mount would 
also work with that? Or should I be in the market for a silver2  shifter 
lever?

Thanks in advance,
Abe

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[RBW] Re: Sometimes the answer is right there

[Pancake]

Eric, they are Riv recommended Kool Stop E-bike brake pads (73mm, but they 
come in 54mm too). Excellent pads! All part of my ongoing schemes and 
attempts to simulate the power of v-brakes on my side pull r559 brakes. I’m 
ready to have someone weld on some v-brake posts for that 
strong-enough-to-slow-this-heavy-guy-on-a-bike v-brake goodness. But these 
are as good as it gets in the meantime, and they’re very good pads. I also 
use compression less brake cable housing, also helps at the margins. 

>From https://www.rivbike.com/products/brake-pads-kool-stop-e-bike :

“A guy who builds up tons of bikes asked me if I’d ever tried Kool-Stop 
e-bike brake pads, and of course not. Who’s going to do that out of the 
blue? I don’t replace brake pads until I hear the metal holders touching 
the rim, anyway.

The guy, Chris C., is not a raver and wasn’t pushy, but he seemed bursting 
with sincere enthusiasm for these pads, which he said are smooth and quiet 
and stop fantastically well, so we got samples, and holy cow.

I think these are as good as brake pads get, and I suspect they’re really 
the best in the world. The 73mm V-brake pads are thicker than most V-brake 
pads—probably so you don’t blow through skinny ones on rim-braked 
eBikes—and that’s another bonus. You can use the V-brake pads-with-holders 
on sidepulls, too.”

On Saturday, 10 July 2021 at 06:34:27 UTC-7 EricP wrote:

> Thanks! Hmm. That gives me some other tire ideas. What else are folks 
> using for 700x45c tires? Don't have a lot of options near me, so what to 
> see what others are using.
>
> Also, Abe, what are those brake pad holders? Looks like larger mountain 
> bike one on the Tektro 559.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Friday, July 9, 2021 at 5:42:31 PM UTC-5 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I run RH Snoqualmie Pass (700c x 44) that really run closer to 41mm.  Fit 
>> fine without fenders.  I tried running a set of Oracle Ridge (700c x 47).  
>> They fit, but it was hard getting them past the brake calipers (even with 
>> the cable fully slack).
>>
>> On Friday, July 9, 2021 at 3:14:02 PM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> Maybe I'm just happy to see a similar Sam (double TT!), but I can also 
>>> confirm that my Schwalbe G-One Allround tires fit at 700x45 - even with the 
>>> little knobbies on the Allround tire. I wouldn't go bigger than that 
>>> really, maybe 47 or 48mm slick tires would fit well enough but leave very 
>>> little space between the rubber and the paint.
>>>  [image: IMG_5677.jpg]
>>> [image: IMG_4510a.jpg]
>>> [image: IMG_4451.jpg][image: IMG_4453.jpg]
>>> Take care,
>>> Abe
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, 7 July 2021 at 17:05:21 UTC-7 EricP wrote:
>>>
>>>> Had been contemplating putting bigger tires on the Hillborne, but 
>>>> wasn't sure what would fit. After doing some research, realized that it 
>>>> would take 700x45c without a problem. So then started looking. Well, it 
>>>> turns out my Clem Smith Jr. was shipped with a set of 700x45c tires. Did 
>>>> the swap. While not a huge fan of them on the Clem, they are more than 
>>>> adequate for the Hillborne. Also swapped the bars to Soma Oxford and put 
>>>> the sneaker pedals back on. Still a bit of tweaking to do (lower saddle, 
>>>> lower stem and less downward tilt to the bars). Oh, and for good measure 
>>>> put the Nitto front rack back on along with the Sackville bag.  
>>>>
>>>> Overall things seem to work. A 10 mile ride showed there weren't any 
>>>> things that seemed totally out of place. Well see how long this setup 
>>>> lasts. (Probably until Billie or Tosco bars are back in stock).
>>>>
>>>> Eric Platt
>>>> St. Paul, MN 
>>>>
>>>> [image: Sam Hillborne 7 7 21.jpg]
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: XD2 Rings and 9 Speed

[Pancake]

The XD2 will work nicely with 9 speed your 9 speed chain and 9 speed 
cassette. In fact, I've had 4 different Sugino XD2 or the nearly identical 
X600 and they were all only used with 9 speed drive trains, all worked very 
nicely. I believe others will report that they even work fine with 10 speed 
chains.

Take care,
Abe

On Saturday, 3 July 2021 at 06:22:10 UTC-7 John Hawrylak wrote:

> I want to use my Sugino XD2 crank with the STOCK Sugino rings with a 9 
> speed Shimano cassette and 9 speed KMC chain.   Currently use it on a 7 
> speed cassette with a 8 speed KMC chain with no issues.
>
> Does anyone have any experience, positive or negative, on using this crank 
> with a 9 speed cassettes and chain??
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ 
>

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[RBW] WTB: Paul Components Moon Unit and Funky Monkey (1”) - silver preferred, not black, colors okay

[Pancake]

I’m looking for a cable hanger and straddle / yoke to work with my front 
Racer Brake. This is for a Sam Hillborne so I need a 1” / 25.4mm hanger. 
I’m open to other options (those peace sign cable straddles are awesome, 
Rene Herse makes a sweet cable hanger), but my preference is for:

*1 x Paul Moon Unit in silver, polished, or almost any color (but not black 
unless it’s cheaper or local to Napa or the SF Bay Area).*

*1 x Paul Funky Monkey front cable hanger, 1” diameter. Prefer silver, 
polished, most any color, but not black.*

I have a black Moon Unit and Black Funky Monkey 1” to trade if anyone wants 
to swap their silver, polished, or color funky monkey for a black one. But 
I’m also looking for another set (I have two bikes setup with front Paul 
Racer brakes, but only have the black hanger and straddle for now). 

I have many bits and bobs for trade if that’s interesting for anyone, just 
let me know why you’re after (brooks saddles, some handlebars and stems, 
all sorts of random other bits).

Take care,
Abe

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rivendell Cheviot - silver, 60cm - $1,750 local pick up in Napa

[Pancake]

Sold to a very pleasant fellow not far from Rivendell, he'll be shipping it 
off to a friend. Riv's for everyone!

On Sunday, 16 May 2021 at 11:24:14 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

>
> sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/d/napa-rivendell-cheviot-silver-60cm-rack/7322509966.html
>
> My friend and I were building this up for a friend but they already got 
> themselves another bike! So now I'm selling it - built it up myself and 
> looking forward to a local sale if possible. I'm in Napa but I visit 
> friends in Berkeley, Sonoma and sometimes San Jose so could probably meet 
> anywhere in between. I can install the fenders if you like, but figured to 
> leave them as clean as possible until they meet their final racks and tires 
> and such. If you want some parts swapped around or to see if I have some 
> alternative parts just let me know and I'll look around. 
> Abe in Napa
>

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[RBW] FS: Rivendell Cheviot - silver, 60cm - $1,750 local pick up in Napa

[Pancake]

sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/d/napa-rivendell-cheviot-silver-60cm-rack/7322509966.html

My friend and I were building this up for a friend but they already got 
themselves another bike! So now I'm selling it - built it up myself and 
looking forward to a local sale if possible. I'm in Napa but I visit 
friends in Berkeley, Sonoma and sometimes San Jose so could probably meet 
anywhere in between. I can install the fenders if you like, but figured to 
leave them as clean as possible until they meet their final racks and tires 
and such. If you want some parts swapped around or to see if I have some 
alternative parts just let me know and I'll look around. 
Abe in Napa

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[RBW] Re: Need Platypus tire advice

[Pancake]

"Some of them are clearly wrong; how can the 700x44 Rene Herse Snoqualmie 
Pass tires possibly weigh less than the 700x38 Barlow Pass" ... apparently 
Jan answered this in the comments to a blog post at Rene Herse 

: 
"Compass tires are largely made by hand. The rubber coating of the casing, 
but also the tread thickness, vary a bit from one production run to the 
next. *The last batch of Barlow Pass tires turned out a tad heavy (which 
means they set up very easily tubeless), while recent Snoqualmies have been 
at the light end of the spectrum.* They all ride great, and you’ll be 
hard-pressed to notice the difference on the road." 

I have Continental Speed Contact (or as riv called them, Basketball tires) 
in 700x42mm and they're excellent for the anticipated riding, but slightly 
heavy (also excellent flat protection in my experience, though with 
tubeless sealant added to the tubes which helps quite a bit). Also strongly 
recommend the Schwalbe G-One Allround in 45mm (they don't yet offer the 
Speed version, with tiny treads vs. the Allround's knobbies, of the G-one 
wider than 38mm, but that's also excellent). 

I'd bet the 44mm Snoqualmie pass tires are a great fit for this riding and 
they'd still have excellent fender protection under the 52mm Soma fenders. 

On Tuesday, 11 May 2021 at 15:28:25 UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> BTW, the Shikoros are not SOMA's lightweight slick tire. At 320g(28c), 
> 350g(33c) 430g(38c) for the folding ones, they're more like replacements 
> for their heavier Everwear tires. The wire rimmed ones are obviously 
> heavier still. Another comparison would be to the Riv Ruffy Tuffy (700x28) 
> or Jack Brown (700x33). SOMA's lightweight tires are the Supple Vitesse 
> models, which are roughly in the same market as the Panaracer GravelKing 
> slicks and the Rene Herse standard casing models:
>
> SOMA Shikoro (folding): 28c (320g), 33c (350g), 38c (430g)
>
> SOMA Supple Vitesse SL (light):   28c (220g), 33c (250g), 38c (270g), 42c 
> (340g)
>
> SOMA Supple Vitesse EX (heavy): 28c (270g), 33c (290g), 38c (320g), 42c 
> (380g)
>
> Rivendell Ruffy Tuffy:   28c (not currently listed on 
> Riv or SOMA sites, so who knows?)
>
> Rivendell Jack Brown:33c (320g 
> light, 400g heavy)   
>
> Panaracer GravelKing slick:28c (270g), 32c (290g), 35c (310g), 
> 38c (330g)
>
> Rene Herse (standard):28c (248g), 32c (291g), 35c 
> (355g), 38c (385g), 44c (375g)
>
> Rene Herse (extralight):   28c (225g), 32c (254g), 35c 
> (303g), 38c (350g), 44c (330g)
>
> By tradition, we can assume that many of these weights are wishful 
> thinking - maybe many of the measurements, too. Some of them are clearly 
> wrong; how can the 700x44 Rene Herse Snoqualmie Pass tires possibly weigh 
> less than the 700x38 Barlow Pass ones, unless the casings on the 700x44s 
> are sidewall-bursting thin? And weightwise, the SOMA Supple Vitesse SLs are 
> just *crazy* light, if those numbers are real.
>
> A nice-riding, fairly durable 700x30-something tire (if you can find them) 
> is the SOMA New Express, which has the Panaracer Pasela tread with a more 
> flexible casing. This was originally a 700c tire, which SOMA discontinued 
> when they introduced the Supple Vitesse on the lighter end and the Shikoro 
> on the heavier end. I rode a pair of folding New Expresses in 700x35 for a 
> year or so on my around-town bike, and really liked them; I'd buy them 
> again if they were still available.
>
> Peter Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
>
> On Tuesday, May 11, 2021 at 2:38:05 PM UTC-7 Peter Adler wrote:
>
>> All the SOMA tires are made by Panaracer (the bike tire subsidiary of 
>> National Tire, which is the tiremaking subsidiary of Panasonic; they mostly 
>> do car/truck tires). All the Grand Bois tires are made by Panaracer. All 
>> the Rivendell tires are made by Panaracer. All the Compass/Rene Herse tires 
>> are made by Panaracer. All the Bruce Gordon tires are made by Panaracer. 
>> And back before Kirk Pacenti sold his tire designs to Panaracer outright, 
>> all the Pacenti tires were made by Panaracer.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wider Noodles

[Pancake]

The Nitto RM-013 is close to this already: 52 from end to end but 48 at the 
hoods and otherwise the same as a noodle with flared drops. I have one I 
can sell if anyone is interested.
Abe

On Tuesday, 11 May 2021 at 05:36:32 UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:

> Nitto should go up that wide. Call it the Flat Udon. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Monday, May 10, 2021 at 8:42:26 AM UTC-4 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>
>> I noticed in Will's email update a mention of a 54cm Noodle prototype. 
>> Well, consider me excited. I recently put Nitto/Crust Shaka bars on my 
>> Atlantis to get something wider than a 48 Noodle and absolutely love them. 
>> It got me thinking that it would be cool if Riv put the same effort into 
>> perfect wider drops that they put into all the wide variations of 
>> loscotoscochocobosco sweptback bars. Also, I recall over the years that 
>> various threads about drops have mentioned demand for 50+ wide noodle bars. 
>> Anyone else jazzed? 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Losco vs Albatross 6mm Additional Sweep back--an additional 6cm

[Pancake]

Not exactly the same, but you can compare the Albatross and the Bosco at 
https://whatbars.com/ and get a similar result (shows nearer a 7cm length 
of further extension, but according to Pythagorus, that’s about 6cm of 
additional sweepback. 
Curious if anyone has compared the Tosco bars to Albatross or Bosco bars. *I’m 
looking for a 60cm wide, 25.4mm at the stem Tosco bar myself (in case 
anyone is holding one to sell or has one to compare to Albatross or similar 
bars in a photo). *

Just got Sunlite “Elson Roadster Touring” handlebar ($27) and it’s an 
Albatros clone, except the hand grip area is an extra 2.5cm longer (further 
sweepback) than my steel  56cm Albatross bars from 2005(?) making it 58cm 
wide, and its heavy (738g). Good for anyone wanting something with extra 
sweepback or a cheap way to try what Albatross bars feel like. 

Abe

On Friday, 7 May 2021 at 10:29:17 UTC-7 Roberta wrote:

> I placed the Albatross on top of the Losco, lining up the clamp area.  The 
> Losco extends back an additional 6cm.
>
> I had looked previously and couldn't find this measurement.  Perhaps this 
> information is interesting to someone.  
>
> Roberta
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Bosco or Tosco with quill stem, crankset (double or triple)

[Pancake]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions (especially Community Bikes, I 
can’t wait to check them out!).
I’ve got the stem, shifters (attached to the stem), and I’m donating my own 
crankset ... so I can replace it with an upgrade (IRD 46/30t double from 
Boulderbicycle.bike like the IRD Defiant but in 94mm BCD).
*Still looking for **Tosco bars - 60cm wide, 25.4mm at stem (or something 
similar, like 55cm Tosco).*

On Wednesday, 14 April 2021 at 13:09:22 UTC-7 Kushan wrote:

> Do you know about Community Bikes in Santa Rosa 
> <https://communitybikessantarosa.org/services/>? They are a bike co-op 
> and have several bins of used parts including the ones you need. My wife 
> and I recently did a build for her new VO polyvalent frame 
> <https://www.instagram.com/p/CNiR1FwBbrV/> and found some good bargain 
> parts ($10 HB, $5 stem, $15 sugino triple). 
>
> On Tuesday, April 13, 2021 at 5:26:19 PM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>
>> I'm building up a Cheviot for a friend on a budget - mostly from my spare 
>> parts. It may be too tall a frame for them (in which case you'll see it for 
>> sale here in a couple months maybe). But I'm missing a few important bits, 
>> *please 
>> let me know if you have any of these or something similar for sale in the 
>> SF Bay Area *(preferable close to Napa, though I could meet you in 
>> Oakland or SF or Sonoma or anywhere in between):
>>
>>- Tosco or Bosco or similar sweptback bars - Wald would be just fine 
>>since we're trying to keep the budget low. 
>>- Quill stem - 8cm to 11cm extension depending on which bars are 
>>available to go with it. Technomic or similar 25.4 or 26mm attachment 
>>preferred, but I'll take your Orgin8 or random old stem especially if 
>> it's 
>>cheap.
>>- Crankset - happy to cobble something together here, a double or 
>>triple Sugino or an old Specialized Flag or Velo Orange, something that 
>> can 
>>take 110 / 74 bcd. With or without chainrings. *Ideally a cheap, old 
>>44t/28t double*, but really anything that will get it moving would be 
>>great. It's a 9 speed chain and cassette so most anything will work. 
>>
>> I have loads of parts to trade if you're interested, just let me know 
>> what you're after. The spare parts I'm using on this build are mostly black 
>> so other black or silver parts are great. 
>>
>> Please email me off list with what you have, hopefully near enough to 
>> meet for a porch pick up. I can pay cash, venmo or paypal. 
>>
>> Take care,
>> Abe
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Bosco or Tosco with quill stem, crankset (double or triple)

[Pancake]

I'm building up a Cheviot for a friend on a budget - mostly from my spare 
parts. It may be too tall a frame for them (in which case you'll see it for 
sale here in a couple months maybe). But I'm missing a few important bits, 
*please 
let me know if you have any of these or something similar for sale in the 
SF Bay Area *(preferable close to Napa, though I could meet you in Oakland 
or SF or Sonoma or anywhere in between):

   - Tosco or Bosco or similar sweptback bars - Wald would be just fine 
   since we're trying to keep the budget low. 
   - Quill stem - 8cm to 11cm extension depending on which bars are 
   available to go with it. Technomic or similar 25.4 or 26mm attachment 
   preferred, but I'll take your Orgin8 or random old stem especially if it's 
   cheap.
   - Crankset - happy to cobble something together here, a double or triple 
   Sugino or an old Specialized Flag or Velo Orange, something that can take 
   110 / 74 bcd. With or without chainrings. *Ideally a cheap, old 44t/28t 
   double*, but really anything that will get it moving would be great. 
   It's a 9 speed chain and cassette so most anything will work. 

I have loads of parts to trade if you're interested, just let me know what 
you're after. The spare parts I'm using on this build are mostly black so 
other black or silver parts are great. 

Please email me off list with what you have, hopefully near enough to meet 
for a porch pick up. I can pay cash, venmo or paypal. 

Take care,
Abe

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Re: [RBW] Re: Helicopter tape recommendation requested (a specific name or URL)

[Pancake]

I ordered this from Amazon for $20  (1“wide * 30’long) Racers Tape Surface 
Guard Tape . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O6BQMG

Lots of reviews say it worked well for bike frames. 14mil seems unnecessary 
UNLESS you’re wrapping the tube where your front rack or handlebars or 
basket contact the frame on a full turn - no tape seems thick enough, I did 
tape plus twine which has worked well for a couple years. 

Good for where the bike rack hooks contact the frame so the cable doesn’t 
run the paint. 

Abe

On Saturday, 3 April 2021 at 18:29:35 UTC-7 Robert Tilley wrote:

> I started applying tape on a frame today and it’s kind of a pain. I want 
> to do the front triangle since I’ll be using a frame bag on this bike. My 
> frame has lots of bottle mounts and cable guides so getting the tape around 
> those was pretty tedious. It’s likely one job I’d pay someone else to do.
>
> A paper cutter would help a lot and I ran out of solution so I’ll need to 
> finish the job tomorrow.
>
> Robert Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 3, 2021, at 6:21 PM, Benz Ouyang, Sunnyvale, CA  
> wrote:
>
> Paul, thanks for sharing your cache of information!
>
>
> I concur that the 3M 8545HS, 7070UV and 7071UV are all the same thing, 
> differing only in thickness. I can find the 8mil and 14mil stuff rather 
> easily, but I wish I can find the 40mil stuff; Googling "3M 8545HS" didn't 
> really produce any hits. The 40mil stuff will be great for protecting the 
> chainstay from chain slap, because I found the 14mil stuff barely adequate 
> (I ended up wrapping old inner tubes with bum valves around the chainstay).
>
> As far as improving conformability, professional car protective film 
> installers need to form the film around tight corners on cars, so they use 
> a heat gun/hair dryer to make the film a lot more malleable. AFAIK, there 
> isn't really too many such tight corners on bicycles, at least corners that 
> warrants protection.
>
> On Thursday, April 1, 2021 at 9:00:28 AM UTC-7 Paul Clifton wrote:
>
>> I've been pretty curious about this topic for a while so I finally did 
>> some digging around. Nothing anyone hasn't already said on this and other 
>> threads, but I'm adding it just for additional info if anyone is interested.
>>
>> The basic protective tape seems to be  3M™ Industrial Protective Film 
>> 7070UV: 
>> https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/d/b40066699/
>> There's even a link to a PDF at the bottom of that page that shows a 
>> Bicycle Application Concept. It doesn't say anything about removing the 
>> adhesive when you take the tape off, but since it is designed for that sort 
>> of thing, I doubt it will harm paint.
>>
>> They also make a thicker version 7071UV, prob for stuff that gets hit 
>> harder.
>>
>> Both 7070 and  7071 are available at McMaster Carr. They may be available 
>> cheaper elsewhere but at least McMaster calls out the specific product on 
>> the listing: 
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-tape/heavy-duty-surface-protection-tape/
>>
>> Digging into 3M's aerospace category gets to this amazing page about 
>> products for helicopter rotor blades: 
>> https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/aerospace-us/segment-solutions/rotor-blades/
>> The stuff for helicopters is extremely thick and says it offers "limited 
>> conformability" 
>> https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/?N=5002385+3292668475=rud
>>
>> I've also seem people recommend low friction protection tape, which is 
>> meant for lining chutes in factories and fulfillment centers. It offers 
>> impact protection as well: 
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-tape/low-friction-uhmw-tape-8/
>> It's acrylic, not polyurethane.Maybe I'll get some of the for my 
>> daughter's scratched up plastic slide.
>>
>> But for my bike, I'd probably just go with the 3M 7070UV since it's 
>> really designed specifically for protecting paint, but maybe not structural 
>> elements, from minor impacts on land vehicles.
>>
>> I love tape.
>>
>> BTW - has anyone used the gaffe tape from McMaster? How does it compare 
>> to the Gaffe brand gaffe tape? I hate bad tape. 
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-tape/matte-duct-tape/
>>
>> Paul in AR
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 4:38:39 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>>
>>> Helicopter tape to put under the brake wire that runs along the bottom 
>>> of the top tube, so perhaps 1 1/2 -  2" wide to allow for wire movement and 
>>> a not too perfect tape application.  I carry my bike on a hanging bike rack 
>>> and currently protect the frame by putting inner tubes between the wire and 
>>> frame, but that's becoming annoying.
>>>
>>> There's so many out there and I'm not sure which will work well and not 
>>> effect the paint.  My local auto supply place said they never heard of it.  
>>> Neither did the LBS.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Roberta, AHHilsen
>>>
>> -- 
>
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[RBW] Re: WTB: silver rear hub, 32h, 135mm, 11spd (or 8-10) (Velo Orange, Shimano, White, others)

[Pancake]

Parts all ordered, hub no longer needed, thanks everyone!

For the curious, here's my planned build @ $427 for silver polished 
wheelset including dynamo and semi fancy rear hub. 

   - Front: 
  - Hub: Kasai polished 32h dynamo ($133 from Bikeman.com)
  - Rim: Velo Orange Voyager 700c 32h (2 for $110 from RBW list member)
  - Spokes: Sapim Race (same as DT Swiss Competition at 2.0-1.8-2.0 
  double butted) - ($0.80 each - front uses 32 spokes at 292mm long for 
spoke 
  calculation of 291.3mm $27 includes a spare)
  - Nipples: DT Swiss brass 12mm ($4 for 32)
  - Rim tape laying around (Orange Seal or Velocity $12 is enough for 
  front and rear)
   - Rear:
  - Hub: Bitex BX106r 32h 10/11 speed silver ($110)
  - Rim: Velo Orange Voyager 700c 32h (see above)
  - Spokes: Sapim Race (same as DT Swiss Competition at 2.0-1.8-2.0 
  double butted) - (rear uses 16 spokes at 292mm long for spoke calculation 
  of 291.5mm, and 16 spokes at 294mm long for spoke calculation of 293.1mm)
  - Nipples: DT Swiss brass 12mm ($4 for 32)
  - Rim tape laying around (see above)
   - Doesn't include some tools I bought or already had:
   - Bikehand truing stand ($150)
  - ParkTool dishing tool ($22 for the portable one)
  - Nipple driver I made with an old flathead screw bit - 2.5mm long 
  tip (otherwise $13 for the Unior bit)
  - When use them tubeless (maybe) will need some Stan's fluid I 
  already have (probably $10) plus two valves (also laying around, normally 
  $15)
  - Ztto (cheap) tension meter $22 - probably improperly calibrated but 
  I'll use it to get close and consistent between spokes.
   

On Monday, 1 March 2021 at 12:36:45 UTC-8 Pancake wrote:

> Thanks for all the responses!
>
> I found out that Riv has the FH-T610 ($30) and FH-T670 
> <https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorelx-t670/FH-T670.html> 
> ($60) which is now the most affordable and easy option I've got. Thanks 
> Rich! *I'm still hoping someone has another VO or Bitex or White 
> Industries (or similar) that they want to sell second hand - I guess I want 
> some of the fanciness without all the original cost ... anyone?*
>
> *Bitex* - This is suddenly a great option as a middle ground between 
> Shimano T670 / T610 and the fancier stuff. I couldn't find the right option 
> at first, but it looks like the *BX106R 
> <https://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/bx106r.htm> would work (though with 
> a centerlock attachment* but that's good for having options later I 
> suppose - it doesn't stand out visually either). I see a price of $119.95 
> in my cart from bikehubstore.com, though the website text says "$109.95" 
> for Black or Silver (emailed them about that). Free shipping too! I had 
> assumed I could only find these at Analog and at a higher price, so this is 
> great news and *my current plan/choice*.
> For future reference, the rim brake only Bitex hub is BX101R with the 
> 135mm x 10mm axle and 10/11 speed Shimano freehub body. 
> There's also a bolt on disc model, MTR12, that would work hypothetically, 
> but I'm trying to avoid the bolt on as it would look a bit odd without a 
> disc on it.
>
> *11 speed optional* - only really interested in an 11 speed hub because 
> it would be compatible with 9 speed (when including a spacer behind the 
> cassette) and would also potentially be available on a 11 speed cassette in 
> the future (should I ever go 1x11 which doesn't seem likely for years to 
> come, but still, I like having options I guess). Good tips on compatibility 
> of different cassettes on these hub bodies though!
>
> *Grand Bois* - beautiful but I think only available in 126mm or 130mm 
> width (I need 135mm).
>
> Shimano XTR FH-M910 on ebay 
> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-XTR-FH-M910-1-1-2-Gen-32-hole-Rear-Hub-Used/324502238211?hash=item4b8dd73403:g:asMAAOSwNqNgPEfE>
>  
> for $65 just listed too. I think these are from the mid or late 90's? 
> Interesting and polished option.
>
> Thanks for the excellent info and suggestions! Planning on buying that 
> Bitex BX106r from bikehubstore, I guess I'll get the butted (2.0-1.8-2.0) 
> spokes and some brass nipples there too. 
>
> Now onto the front wheel I suppose: Kasai Dynacoil RB F Q/R Hub, 9x100mm, 
> 32h - Hi Polish <http://www.bikeman.com/BTI-KI4218.html>. The polished 
> version doesn't seem to be available at Rivendell so looking to order from 
> Bikeman.com for $133. 
>
> So I think I end up with an all polished / silver wheelset for a 
> reasonable price! 
>
>- Front: 
>   - Hub: Kasai polished 32h dynamo ($133)
>   - Rim: Velo Orange Voyager 700c 32h (2 for $110)
>   - Spokes: DT Swiss double butted competition (64 for $64)
>   - Nipples

[RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels

[Pancake]

Is this the video you were referring to? 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUqul03hbZ8
Jim Langley (not Land)?

On Monday, 19 October 2020 at 10:48:25 UTC-7 Garth wrote:

>
>
>
>  You'll be alright Steven. The difference to me between wheels built 
> by me and wheels built by a dedicated professional is theirs are within 
> tighter tolerances and they don't ever need touched, at least mine haven't 
> and I have a 20 year old pair from Joe Young. They also do it much quicker 
> of course. 
>
>Jim Land on youtube has the best video of building/truing wheels I've 
> seen, his way is presentation is very easy going and more intuitive than 
> all the books that I once read, and hated. 
>
> "Just one more book Alice ... and POW .. right in the kisser !" 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: silver rear hub, 32h, 135mm, 11spd (or 8-10) (Velo Orange, Shimano, White, others)

[Pancake]

Thanks for all the responses!

I found out that Riv has the FH-T610 ($30) and FH-T670 
<https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorelx-t670/FH-T670.html> 
($60) which is now the most affordable and easy option I've got. Thanks 
Rich! *I'm still hoping someone has another VO or Bitex or White Industries 
(or similar) that they want to sell second hand - I guess I want some of 
the fanciness without all the original cost ... anyone?*

*Bitex* - This is suddenly a great option as a middle ground between 
Shimano T670 / T610 and the fancier stuff. I couldn't find the right option 
at first, but it looks like the *BX106R 
<https://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/bx106r.htm> would work (though with 
a centerlock attachment* but that's good for having options later I suppose 
- it doesn't stand out visually either). I see a price of $119.95 in my 
cart from bikehubstore.com, though the website text says "$109.95" for 
Black or Silver (emailed them about that). Free shipping too! I had assumed 
I could only find these at Analog and at a higher price, so this is great 
news and *my current plan/choice*.
For future reference, the rim brake only Bitex hub is BX101R with the 135mm 
x 10mm axle and 10/11 speed Shimano freehub body. 
There's also a bolt on disc model, MTR12, that would work hypothetically, 
but I'm trying to avoid the bolt on as it would look a bit odd without a 
disc on it.

*11 speed optional* - only really interested in an 11 speed hub because it 
would be compatible with 9 speed (when including a spacer behind the 
cassette) and would also potentially be available on a 11 speed cassette in 
the future (should I ever go 1x11 which doesn't seem likely for years to 
come, but still, I like having options I guess). Good tips on compatibility 
of different cassettes on these hub bodies though!

*Grand Bois* - beautiful but I think only available in 126mm or 130mm width 
(I need 135mm).

Shimano XTR FH-M910 on ebay 
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-XTR-FH-M910-1-1-2-Gen-32-hole-Rear-Hub-Used/324502238211?hash=item4b8dd73403:g:asMAAOSwNqNgPEfE>
 
for $65 just listed too. I think these are from the mid or late 90's? 
Interesting and polished option.

Thanks for the excellent info and suggestions! Planning on buying that 
Bitex BX106r from bikehubstore, I guess I'll get the butted (2.0-1.8-2.0) 
spokes and some brass nipples there too. 

Now onto the front wheel I suppose: Kasai Dynacoil RB F Q/R Hub, 9x100mm, 
32h - Hi Polish <http://www.bikeman.com/BTI-KI4218.html>. The polished 
version doesn't seem to be available at Rivendell so looking to order from 
Bikeman.com for $133. 

So I think I end up with an all polished / silver wheelset for a reasonable 
price! 

   - Front: 
  - Hub: Kasai polished 32h dynamo ($133)
  - Rim: Velo Orange Voyager 700c 32h (2 for $110)
  - Spokes: DT Swiss double butted competition (64 for $64)
  - Nipples: DT Swiss brass 12mm (64 for $8)
  - Rim tape laying around (Orange Seal or Velocity)
   - Rear:
  - Hub: Bitex BX106r 32h 10/11 speed silver ($110)
  - Rim, spokes, nipples same as above.
   
Total cost: $435.

Then will likely add tubeless sealant and valves, hopefully Snoqualmie Pass 
or G-One 45mm Allround or speed tires. Should take me where I want to go 
tubed or tubeless. 

Still open to suggestions, advice, tips, or any of those items for sale 
second hand.

Take care,
Abe


On Monday, 1 March 2021 at 06:39:25 UTC-8 Huston wrote:

> Abe,
>
> One other nice option that checks your boxes: Grand Bois.  You can order 
> through Jitensha (https://www.jitensha.com/eng/hubs.html) or Grand Bois.
>
> Huston
> Lexington, KY
>
> On Sunday, February 28, 2021 at 11:51:27 AM UTC-5 Pancake wrote:
>
>> I have a couple Velo Orange Voyager rims (700c, 32h) that I want to build 
>> up. Plan to use rim brakes, but a center lock hub would be okay too. Open 
>> to other ideas and suggestions too.
>>
>> *Hubs I'm looking for in particular (32h, silver or polished):*
>> Shimano FH-T670 
>> <https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorelx-t670/FH-T670.html>,
>>  
>> (this is my preferred hub, but impossible to find so far), FH-T610 (this 
>> seems the most common but can't ben found in silver anywhere), or similar.
>> Velo Orange Rear Cassette Hub 
>> <https://velo-orange.com/products/rear-cassette-hub-silver-and-noir> in 
>> silver.
>> White Industries MI5 
>> <https://www.rivbike.com/products/hubs-white-industries-mi5-polished-silver?variant=8645336170607>
>>
>> More details in case you have a different hub that might work too:
>>
>> *11 speed hub, but 8-10 speed okay too*: I plan to use a 9 speed 
>> cassette, but I would like to use a 11 speed hub (I understand you can add 
>> a small spacer behind the cassette to make the 11 speed hu

[RBW] WTB: silver rear hub, 32h, 135mm, 11spd (or 8-10) (Velo Orange, Shimano, White, others)

[Pancake]

I have a couple Velo Orange Voyager rims (700c, 32h) that I want to build 
up. Plan to use rim brakes, but a center lock hub would be okay too. Open 
to other ideas and suggestions too.

*Hubs I'm looking for in particular (32h, silver or polished):*
Shimano FH-T670 
, 
(this is my preferred hub, but impossible to find so far), FH-T610 (this 
seems the most common but can't ben found in silver anywhere), or similar.
Velo Orange Rear Cassette Hub 
 in 
silver.
White Industries MI5 


More details in case you have a different hub that might work too:

*11 speed hub, but 8-10 speed okay too*: I plan to use a 9 speed cassette, 
but I would like to use a 11 speed hub (I understand you can add a small 
spacer behind the cassette to make the 11 speed hub work with a 8, 9, or 10 
speed cassette). 

*32 hole* to match my rims.

*Silver or polished* - I'd like to keep everything as silver as possible. 

Will use rim brakes, but if there's a centerlock hub that ticks all the 
other boxes that would work as well.

*Plan to use a Kasai dynamo hub up front (also 32h in silver or polished) 
which I'm also interested in buying from list members*, or a similar silver 
dyanmo hub like Son, SP, or Shimano.

Thanks in advance,
Abe 

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[RBW] Re: Personal Experiences Request.

[Pancake]

I also wanted to point out the VO Voyager rim, exactly between the Atlas 
and Cliffhanger width, polished silver, rim brake and tubeless compatible. 
Excellent and will go on my "one day" wheelset when I'm ready for a dyno 
build with the best stuff (e.g., maybe some hub beyond Shimano's "great but 
not fancy looking" options). 

For anyone looking for *significantly cheaper but similar* width, tubeless 
ready rims, see that Alex Adventurer 
2 https://alexrims.com/products/adventurer2/ - sometimes called the 
Adventure. Ticks all the boxes EXCEPT it's not all silver (only the rim 
brake surface is silver). But a screaming deal at $36 / rim. I had some 
built by universalcycles (DT double butted spokes, LX hubs) so I could try 
a tubeless setup on my Hillborne - it was excellent until I put too much 
air in the tire and popped it of the rim (entirely my fault, didn't read 
the separate and lower tubeless PSI max limit on the rene herse website for 
my snoqualmie pass tires). Now with tubes I'm still very happy with them. 
Nice for 35mm-52mm wide tires. 

The old rule of thumb was "tire size should be about 2-3 times the rim 
interior width." Sheldon's thoughts on rim vs. tire width 
- https://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html#width
Many have said, and it seems supported by actual use reports, that the 
Panceti rims are nice with wider tires than the above chart indicates. 
Clearly 90's mountain bikes had narrower rimes relative to tire width 
(easily 3-4 times wider than the rim width) with success. In fact, there 
seems to be a consensus that there's a "wider" (forgive me) range than the 
Sheldon chart suggests.

Abe
On Friday, 5 February 2021 at 05:57:17 UTC-8 Coal Bee Rye Anne wrote:

> Hugh,
> No personal or first hand usage experience to offer and I've not yet had a 
> chance to fully read all replies so this may have already been mentioned 
> but it might be worth checking out Velo Orange's Voyager rim - it made it's 
> way onto my shortlist for a potential wheel build based on similar 
> wants/needs and the Voyager fits somewhere in between the Cliffhanger and 
> the narrower rims like the Dyad and Atlas, comes in silver finish, and 
> tubeless compatible. I forget the exact tire range VO stated for the 
> Voyager compared to the Cliffhanger but I at least recall the narrow end 
> was down to 38mm tires and covered a range of widths I'm considering.
>
> Best,
> Brian Cole
> Lawrence NJ
>
> On Wednesday, February 3, 2021 at 8:32:18 PM UTC-5 Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
>> So as not to offend any long-term members on this list I did first do a 
>> search and did not find an answer to my question? I believe back in 2018 
>> William Henderson in PDX after an accident had a wheel set built with the 
>> same hubs I'm considering, if he could chime in that would be excellent.
>>
>> On with the question,
>>
>> Does anybody have experience with the Velo Orange Grand Cru 135mm QR 
>> Shimano hub? Specifically, has it held up over time? How does it feel? Does 
>> it spin freely? How does it sound? Meaning is it silent or does it have a 
>> loud ratcheting noise? What were your initial impressions of the build 
>> quality and then later impressions.
>>
>> It's my aesthetic, I just see my new to me Atlantis built with silver 
>> shiny hubs otherwise I'd build my new wheels with a DT Swiss 350 rear hub 
>> and be done. I'm considering a White Industries hub but that's close to 
>> $200 more over the VO hub. Just debating whether the extra $$ is worth it? 
>>
>> I'm going with the Velocity Cliffhangers, wish they came in silver :( 
>> Planning on running schwabe g ones in 2.25" evolutions for cush and speed. 
>> If you have a recommendation on rims that will allow for tubeless, decent 
>> tire profile in silver please lmk. FYI not going with the HED Belgian rims 
>> at $165 nope! 
>>
>> I'm also looking for the Riv stem shifters currently out of stock on the 
>> Riv Hq site. If anyone has a pair that they're willing to part with let me 
>> know? 
>>
>> Best Regards,
>>
>> Hugh in Sunny SoCal Los Angeles to be exact. 
>>
>> Since I'm honorable and might as well ask another question. I plan on 
>> running aluminum albatross bars any recommendations for grips. My 
>> preference is a easily removed grip like the Ergon which I have. Is there 
>> an esi like grip that's removes simply?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr. L for Sale

[Pancake]

Size 52 according to another post by Brian. If it was a 45 I’d buy it for 
my partner today!


On Tuesday, 2 February 2021 at 05:58:26 UTC-8 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY) 
wrote:

> Frame size?
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2021 at 1:23:07 AM UTC-5 brianma...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi all, 
>> for I bought a Clem Smith Jr. last September and have ridden and enjoyed 
>> it but now it is time to sell.  This bike has been upgraded as follows"
>>
>> generator hub and light
>>
>> better Shimano pedals
>>
>> better seat  Brooks B67S
>>
>> rivendell handle bar treatment,  shellacked bar tape and cork grips
>>
>> The bicycle is in very good shape 
>>
>> I paid $1,600 for a complete bike and the upgrades added to the cost.
>>
>> Asking price is $1,500 or you have a different offer.
>>
>> Brian Oldham
>> 916-712-1609 <(916)%20712-1609>
>>
>> San Carlos, Ca. 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tell me about your super-wide drops

[Pancake]

I've used several riv bars and some similar bars including some wide-ish 
dropbars. My thoughts on each:

First bars were *Albatross (56cm steel)* and they're still used on my 
Cheviot (with bar ends mounted at the most forward point making a sort of 
"aero" reach position that's like riding on the hoods of drop bars). 56cm 
wide feels good, hand angle is good, but not as many riding positions as I 
originally figured.* If I could replace them with Tosco bars I'd do it 
now. *

Second bars were* Bosco (58cm)* on a Hillborne, now used on my Rosco Baby 
bike - perfect for the baby bike where long reach back and pretty darn wide 
leaves room for the kid in the front seat. Flexy on a 11cm nitto technomnic 
stem, they were nice on the Hillborne as a commuter but they shine on the 
Rosco Bebe, they were also good on the Cheviot which is a commuter, but a 
bit too much sweep back and rise making too big a difference between the 
forward flat position and the super upright grips position. The extra width 
was great.

Switched the Hillborne to *Nitto Dirt Drop RM-013 bars (48cm at hoods, 52cm 
at bar ends)* - very nice for long rides but ultimately not quite right for 
me - too much drop and not enough flair at the hooks to make the hoods 
angled a bit more which feels better for me on longer rides. Very comfy in 
the hoods. Shortened to a 6cm stem (was 11cm with the Boscos on it before). 
Nice and flexy, but not quite right for my wrists (which bare plenty of 
weight as I'm a heavy fella). To get more flair at the hooks and a bit more 
width at the ends switched to ...

*Soma Portola (56cm at ends, 45.5cm at hoods*) - much less drop that the 
RM-013 dirt drops, more flair angle at the hooks sets the hoods at an angle 
so I can put more weight on the hoods comfortably. Still figiting with the 
setup (no tape yet but I think I'm set now) after raising the stem quite a 
bit (compared to the dirt drops). Biggest difference: Suddenly I use the 
hooks! Never really felt good in the hooks before but seems very natural 
position with these bars. The hoods are also more comfy (vs. RM-103) 
because of the additional flair at the hook. The wrist angle in the drops 
is not ideal but it's good, it's a little steep (not as close to flat with 
the ground as the RM-013) but good - if I could modify these to have a be 
flatter here while keeping the hoods/hooks in the same spot these would be 
ideal for me. 

Lots of additional options if you have a 31.8mm clamp stem (including the 
Junebug which is just the Portola but in 31.8, both quite similar to the 
Midge) but these are my fav's in the 25.4/26mm variety. 

Honestly, I'd be happy to try the Towel Rack in 610/615mm because of where 
it would setup the hoods, but 660 or 670mm seems past the point of 
diminishing returns for my body unless I was on dirt only setup. So vary 
VERY happy with the Portola bars as a compromise for wider, better wrist 
hood position bars. 

My main hand position is usually 1-2" above the nose of the seat. I also 
angle the seat so it points at the stem clamp or main hand position and 
that consistently works nicely. 

There are so many small changes in brake lever position and drop angle and 
stem height that I would be hard pressed to tell you any bar fits well or 
poorly until trying tons of different positions. Any by the time my fit 
seems perfect my body changes enough to make it a constantly moving target 
to get the fit just right. But mostly* I just ride as it is whenever 
there's time!*

May you find your happy handlebar place!
On Wednesday, 27 January 2021 at 09:25:00 UTC-8 John G wrote:

> I'm thinking of a set of the Spank bars for my next project.  Right now I 
> have a set of the VeloOrange Dajia Far Bars (48cm) on the Stump Puller, 
> paired with a Cigne stem to get the bars way up there. (585mm overall).  I 
> spend a lot of time in the hooks and they feel pretty good.
> https://flic.kr/p/2kj72a1
>
> I also have a set of original WTB Dirt Drops on the Quickbeam.  They feel 
> good too. :)
> https://flic.kr/p/sr927L
>
> Cheers,
> John G
> Union Bridge, MD
> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 1:56:22 PM UTC-5 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I am quite fond of the Ritchey Venturemax I have on my CaadX - just the 
>> right amount of drop and flare, with long drops with plenty of hand 
>> real-estate.  What Bars lead me to believe that Midges were similar, which 
>> is true of flare, but to my mind, they need more length in the drops.  I am 
>> using them happily and find that stem height was the key to making that 
>> work out.  I have not tried a set of ultra-wide drops and probably won't 
>> because I'm cheap.
>>
>> On Friday, January 8, 2021 at 4:02:33 PM UTC-5 Gabriel Bruguier wrote:
>>
>>>  Another angle of the 112 that better illustrates the wide drop glory.
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Pancake]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/oakland-rivendell-clem-smith-jr/7239891989.html

59cm Clem Jr with moto lite brakes $1,750 

On Monday, 23 November 2020 at 07:42:30 UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

> 61cm Sam Hillborne
> $3100
> Walnut Creek, CA
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/walnut-creek-rivendell-sam-hillbourne/7235484624.html
>
> [image: hillborne.jpg]
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, July 8, 2020 at 4:11:41 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> This thread is for Rivendells you've found on eBay, CraigsList, and sites 
>> beyond: bikes in which you think someone here might be interested. This 
>> thread isn't for posting ads to your own ad, it's just so people who are 
>> searching or interested have a place to look, like, "Hey, check this out!" 
>> Here are a few, from today's searches:
>>
>> 61cm Roadini
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/283940882590
>>
>> 58cm Quickbeam
>>
>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/pinole-rivendell-quickbeam-58/7154380920.html
>>
>> 52cm Clementine
>>
>> https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bik/d/richardson-rivendell-clementine/7130894748.html
>>
>> 65cm Redwood
>>
>> https://bellingham.craigslist.org/bik/d/bellingham-rivendell-redwood/7153843392.html
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: How to alter a shimano bar pod to fit a microshift 11 speed shifter

[Pancake]

I added a thin strip of brass in the cable guide cutout of the lever. It is 
2mm wide and 1mm tall. It increases the cable pull overall. Alternative to 
cutting the limiting section of the bar pod.

This allows me to use a 9 speed microshift lever to shift a 10 speed SRAM 
derailleur across a 9 speed cassette. While it doesn't align for indexing, 
it works nicely for friction shifting on a 9 speed cassette using a 10 
speed SRAM GX derailleur. Happy to mail you one of the metal strips (I 
ordered extra) to experiment with. 

I have a long post about it in this group if you're interested. 

Abe

On Monday, 9 November 2020 at 08:10:06 UTC-8 jwhit...@gmail.com wrote:

> Heya! 
> Not the exact same, but I've modded a shimano dura-ace bar end to throw a 
> sram clutch 10speed through its full range. Required an extra 8mm of cable 
> throw if I remember correctly. I filled off the top just as you were 
> thinking. There doesn't appear to be any internal mechanism inhibiting the 
> throw, just the bar pod preventing the lever from moving further. I traced 
> out an outline with sharpie beforehand to get a nice flush curved finish, 
> doesn't even look like a mod. I've since seen people shave them for eagle 
> 12sp. 
>
> On Saturday, November 7, 2020 at 12:38:03 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> I've heard of people altering their bar end pods for wider range and I 
>> was curious how one goes about doing that. I've got some microshift 11 
>> speed bar ends but I want to lose the black pods in exchange for shimano's 
>> silver ones. 
>>
>> Looks like Roman accomplished it on his Hillborne: "Mark scalloped out a 
>> Shimano barpod to fit a 10-speed MTN Microshift thumbie and it all works 
>> perfectly." 
>>
>> My gut tells me I need to take a file to the top portion of the pod so 
>> the lever can get a further rotation...something like this:?
>> [image: Screenshot 2020-11-07 at 11.30.29 AM.png]
>>
>> Or maybe I'm lost. If anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd 
>> appreciate it! I'd also be curious to know if anyone has done this with 
>> their silver2 bar ends and if they'd pull an 11 speed cassette with this 
>> modification. 
>>
>> Thanks, 
>> Andrew
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus: First Look

[Pancake]

“ This is our final Platypus sample frame and we arranged to have it 
painted a special color for Leah, a fantastic customer of ours. It’s not 
something we offer, but she’s been such a great rep for us that it was the 
least we could do. These frames are due in around December and are coming 
in a Blueish-Silver and Lime metallic. ”

On Wednesday, 30 September 2020 at 11:59:11 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

>
> More photos on Instagram now, what a great color! 
> https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/630709961689808896/leahs-custom-painted-platypus-this-is-our-final
> On Wednesday, 30 September 2020 at 11:16:35 UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Look out! Look out!
>> Platypuses on parade!
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 30, 2020 at 8:31:41 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
>> Ding! wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Paul, the bikes are not completes, so you’ll get to choose your 
>>> parts. The Platypus frames are supposed to arrive in November, or so the 
>>> last newsletter said. There is rumored to be more news come this week, when 
>>> the newsletter and BLAHG post are released.
>>>
>>> I hope we all get one! Let’s clean them out of Platypuses. Platypuses on 
>>> parade!
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Sep 30, 2020, at 8:21 AM, Paul Budnitz  wrote:
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Thanks Joel. Do you know when that is?  And when they will ship?
>>>
>>> Is it frame only? Sorry if I’m repeating questions that have been 
>>> answered elsewhere!
>>>
>>> ☆ Paul
>>> On Sep 30, 2020, 11:16 AM -0400, Joel Stern , wrote:
>>>
>>> You have to wait till they are on the site. 
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 30, 2020 at 10:34 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey all. How do we order one of these? Just don't see them on the Riv 
>>>> site!  Just curious. My daughter might love one. 
>>>>
>>>> Paul
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, September 30, 2020 at 10:03:51 AM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The color looks great - the red equivalent of the new HH gold color.  
>>>>> I guess I'll need to wait until tomorrow to find out the production 
>>>>> colors. 
>>>>> Are there rack mounts on the top of the fork crown? It looks like 
>>>>> there's something there.
>>>>>
>>>>> Tom
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Platypus: First Look

[Pancake]

More photos on Instagram now, what a great color! 
https://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/630709961689808896/leahs-custom-painted-platypus-this-is-our-final
On Wednesday, 30 September 2020 at 11:16:35 UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Look out! Look out!
> Platypuses on parade!
>
> On Wednesday, September 30, 2020 at 8:31:41 AM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
> Ding! wrote:
>
>> Hi Paul, the bikes are not completes, so you’ll get to choose your parts. 
>> The Platypus frames are supposed to arrive in November, or so the last 
>> newsletter said. There is rumored to be more news come this week, when the 
>> newsletter and BLAHG post are released.
>>
>> I hope we all get one! Let’s clean them out of Platypuses. Platypuses on 
>> parade!
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Sep 30, 2020, at 8:21 AM, Paul Budnitz  wrote:
>>
>>  
>>
>> Thanks Joel. Do you know when that is?  And when they will ship?
>>
>> Is it frame only? Sorry if I’m repeating questions that have been 
>> answered elsewhere!
>>
>> ☆ Paul
>> On Sep 30, 2020, 11:16 AM -0400, Joel Stern , wrote:
>>
>> You have to wait till they are on the site. 
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 30, 2020 at 10:34 AM ☆ Paul ☆  wrote:
>>
>>> Hey all. How do we order one of these? Just don't see them on the Riv 
>>> site!  Just curious. My daughter might love one. 
>>>
>>> Paul
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 30, 2020 at 10:03:51 AM UTC-4 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>>
 The color looks great - the red equivalent of the new HH gold color.  I 
 guess I'll need to wait until tomorrow to find out the production colors. 
 Are there rack mounts on the top of the fork crown? It looks like 
 there's something there.

 Tom

>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
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>>> .
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>>>
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[RBW] Re: Parts clean out: VP-001 pedals, 700c front wheel Atlas, much more

[Pancake]

https://imgur.com/a/PX5SDcq 
More photos here - golly this new google groups formate is not easy to use!

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[RBW] Re: Parts clean out: VP-001 pedals, 700c front wheel Atlas, much more

[Pancake]

The VP-100 pedals are sold to Kurt.

On Monday, 14 September 2020 at 14:42:55 UTC-7 Kurt Henry wrote:

> Pancake, the reply offlist doesn’t seem to cooperate much, but I’d like to 
> grab the VP 001 pedals if still available. I am at shrew   at 
> good old yahoo.
> Thanks!
> Kurt Henry
> Lancaster PA USA

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[RBW] Parts clean out: VP-001 pedals, 700c front wheel Atlas, much more

[Pancake]

Pick up in Napa (or add some shipping cost depending on size, USPS Priority 
Mail boxes start around $8):

VP-001 Thin Gripster Pedals - Rivendell specific color (gray with blue hue) 
- $20. Curb and rock scratches but work well and threads good, all pins in 
place.

Front-wheel Rich Lesnik built: Velocity Atlas rim 36h, LX T670 hub, DT 
Swiss Competition double butted spokes - $100

Dia compe SS6 brake levers (pair left and right) - $25 
 
KMC 9 speed chain with 112 links 9.93 - $5

Suntour front derailleur 28.6mm top pull road double or triple - $5

Bolt on skewers front and rear for 100mm and 135mm spaces hubs - $5 for both

Shimano Tiagra RD-4500 rear derailleur medium cage - $15

Shimano UN55 Bottom bracket 68x110 - $10
Tange bottom bracket 68x107 - $10

Ergon GP1 BioKork large grips - well used but work well - $15
Ergon GP1 black large grips - minor scratches, good condition - $15

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Re: [RBW] Re: While we wait for our Platypus Bikes...

[Pancake]

Just some material for those still waiting for a Platypus: 
https://i.redd.it/0a07ng567bj51.png

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Pancake]

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bik/d/belmont-2006-rivendell-rambouillet-650b/7179425356.html
Ram 2006
SFBay (Belmont)
$400 or $1600 depending on wheelset.
On Monday, 17 August 2020 at 16:36:30 UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Brand new Hillborne orange 51, sheesh! SF Bay Area. 
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/danville-rivendell-sam-hillborne-51cm/7179234888.html
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bikes on eBay, CraigsLIst, and Other Sites

[Pancake]

Riding my Sam Hillborne around Lake Tahoe tomorrow, Legolas in my size  bit 
it appears to be sold or unavailable. Anyone know more? I’m in South Lake for a 
few days stills
Abe 

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[RBW] Re: Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

Matthew (and up to 5 or 6 others I suppose), if possible please email / 
private message me where to ship it to. 

Made up an extra tonight after replacing my original metal bit. Slightly 
thicker brass, it’s 2mm wide by 1mm thick but by bending it to a round 
shape it bulges just enough to be a VERY tight fit. So I ground a thin 
layer off one side and it fits a charm. Super glue is probably unnecessary 
but I used a bit anyhow. Removal after the original pieces was glued there 
probably made fitting this version a bit harder, but not bad. I’ll ship to 
anyone willing to try it and report their results. 

If I could start over or for a future build, I want to have a set of 
friction 2x9 drivetrain; 46/30 GRX double, 11-42t sunrace cassette, Sora 
8-speed model double front derailer, and this SRAM GX 10-speed rear 
derailer. Could just as well make it a 1x11-46t setup.

I was eyeballing the Silver 2 shifter for similar treatment on my Cheviot, 
but that’s a project for another day (or for a Platypus!).

Abe

On Monday, 27 July 2020 at 16:29:13 UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:

> Abe,
>
> I'd gladly send you some bucks for material, shipping etc to try it out.
> I'm trying to get hot on this stuff with one bike to sell and one bike to 
> build.
> And I've been on the fence about which shifters to lose on the bike for 
> sale and what to keep.
> This/these could influence my decision.
> Please send me a private message with your paypal etc. if you are inclined.
>
>
> Here is some copy and paste (can use to find the actual thread) where I 
> got that Shimano 600 lever bit of info:
>
> ~~~
> Peter Trasko
> 6/8/17
> Resurrecting an old thread, but I made a chance discovery that may be of 
> interest to the group.
> One limitation of friction-shifted 10 and 11 speed bikes has been the 
> throw length of bar-end shifters. Some people have gotten around this 
> problem with judicious filing of the bar-end pods, like Ultraromance did 
> here with this amazing ride.
> I'm here to tell you that this filing isn't necessary.
> I mounted late-model Shimano 600 downtube shifters (these ones) on generic 
> Shimano bar-end pods. These shifters, on these pods, will pull through a 
> full 180 degrees. On a 10 speed cassette they move a little over 90 
> degrees. I haven't tried 11 (or 12), but I guarantee that it will work. How 
> do I know? With the chain removed and the derailler limits backed all the 
> way out, the shifter will easily pull the derailler into the wheel and 
> beyond. These shifters are also truly "light action", in that you can 
> easily move them by tiny increments. With 10 speed you just never miss a 
> shift.
> Hope this helps! I'm friction shifting a mega-wide-range system of various 
> parts and just loving it. In the rear I have a 10-speed 11-42 cassette. In 
> the front I use a SunXCD 26-46 double. Altogether I can pull my kid trailer 
> up alpine passes (I live in Switzerland) and my top speed is about 40km/hr 
> - which I can only reach on steep descents. I have the range I need!
>
> ~~~`
>
> Good stuff.
> -Matthew
>
>
>
> On Monday, July 27, 2020 at 4:14:57 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> thank you for offering to send me one.  That's not necessary.  If I need 
>> something like it I'll want to do my own work anyway...  Offer it up here 
>> for the less fabricationally inclined.  
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 8:20:53 PM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> Took a quick spin tonight: it works a dream, could be a tiny fraction 
>>> thicker but as is it leaves a meaningful amount of extra lever movement 
>>> range before it’s stopped by the limit screws at the derailer. It could 
>>> move the derailer another 5mm plus for top or bottom gear (enough to shift 
>>> off the bottom or over the top gear if not stopped by the limit screws). 
>>>
>>> Thanks Bill. I’ll send you one myself (shout me where you’d like it sent 
>>> by email). 
>>>
>>> I’m going to fix up another that’s a nicer finish and very tight fit so 
>>> the glue or epoxy will almost unnecessary. 
>>>
>>> Abe
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

Matthew, you got the mechanism right (larger diameter circle in the lever 
section where the cable is guided through causes more cable to be pulled). 

Re: Shimano 600 bar ends - I didn't know about that one but that was my 
first thought when fiddling with the shifter - can't I grind something away 
to allow more movement of the lever? A quick look told me this would be 
complicated and I did not actually want the bar end lever to stick that 
much further up (when pulling to easier gears) or further down and forward 
(when in harder gears). 
Next, I thought of the folks who mix Shimano & Campy components by 
adjusting the cable routing at the rear derailleur but the mechanics of it 
didn't quite make sense to me to get enough additional pull. For example, 
here 
<https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1102658-campy-9s-shifter-derailleur-shimano-cassette-hack.html>
 among 
many others.

But my kludge seemed the simplest version so long as you have abandoned 
hope for matching any indexing - friction for the win here. I may try the 
indexing of my rear shifter (it can work in friction or index mode) just to 
see if I randomly got it close to the right change of diameter at the 
lever, but I'm nearly certain that's just for fun and it won't index 
anymore. 

I just ordered quite a few jewelry brass bars that are 20*2*1mm, 
22.5*2*1mm, and 25*2*1mm for a few bucks and I'll bend them into arches to 
see if they fit nicely (I suspect I'll need to grind down the width a 
fraction of a millimeter). If they fit nicely I'd be happy to mail you a 
few to experiment with. 

I believe this would work equally well for Shimano bar ends, Microshift 
friction thumb levers, and others ... basically anything where you can see 
the cable guide in the lever and add something that will lay under the 
cable as you pull the lever.

While I really like the SRAM GX shifter and Crust gives it a good 
endorsement in their Turkey Vulture Supreme article, there are quite a few 
poor reviews out there. The B-screw apparently is weak and bends if pushed 
much, the derailer itself is a bit loose feeling compared with Shimano (my 
only other experience) which is another complaint others mention. But for 
me it's working very nicely - the clutch's impact is exactly what I hoped 
for compared with the Shimano XT 772 Shadow it replaced: 
+ Significantly quieter while riding.
+ No chain slap on big bumps.
+ Strong / more confident shifts - before it would make some noise after a 
shift and I'd fiddle with the level until it quieted down, but with the GX 
it's quiet right away.
- It is glossy black while I'd prefer completely silver/polished, but, meh, 
don't really care. 

The 9-speed chain is happy with this setup, I may try a 10-speed chain just 
to see if that's improves anything (my memory is that the Crust article 
said 9spd was fine). I do need to add a couple of links to the chain 
because the long change and routing of the GX take a bit more than the XT.

Abe

On Monday, 27 July 2020 at 11:10:07 UTC-7 Matthew P wrote:

> I like this stuff and I'm looking to set up something along these lines.
>
> I was having a hard time grasping it but I think I have it: 
> The bar end shifter is basically a circle (/spool/reel) wrapping & 
> releasing cable.
> The metal insert increases the radius/diameter/circumference of that 
> circle.
> Now the same travel of the lever - or same change in angle - results in a 
> larger distance moving on the outside of that circle - and more cable pull.
> Common analogy: in one rotation of a spinning record, a point on the edge 
> of the circle label in the middle travels less linear distance than does a 
> point on the outer edge of the record.
> But they both travel the same number of degrees: 360.
> Insert angular velocity stuff here.
>
> So this is different than the Shimano 600 bar end shifter and the hacked 
> versions that get more cable pull by having greater movement of the lever - 
> 180 degree swing or whatever it is.
>
> I wonder:
>
> What I can do for thumb shifters.  Hack my microshift thumb shifters or do 
> the lever+(Paul or VO or..?) "Thumby" allow for more options?  Maybe I hold 
> onto my Paul's..
>
> So the 9 speed chain is fine with the 10 speed derailer?
> Would a 10 speed chain be better?  I hear reports of 10 spd chain on 9 spd 
> casette is good.
>
> Definitely go with the Sram clutch (rear) derailer instead of a Shimano?
>
> Thats all I can recall.
> Thank you much for sharing.
>
> -Matthew 
> San Diego
>
>
> On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 10:26:53 AM UTC-7, Pancake wrote:
>>
>> 40 miles today across Napa to Lake Hennessy and back with the new setup: 
>> great! Significantly quieter and shifts great, better than the XT RD before.
>>
>> Abe
>>
>> On Sunday, 26 July 2020 at 05:48:41 UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:

[RBW] Re: Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

40 miles today across Napa to Lake Hennessy and back with the new setup: 
great! Significantly quieter and shifts great, better than the XT RD before.

Abe

On Sunday, 26 July 2020 at 05:48:41 UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:

> This is the sort of hack I envisioned for my NOS Mavic/Simplex DT shift 
> levers pertinent for 9-Spd before I accepted that they were going to be 
> just way too dang far down there on a 64cm frame to worry about if or how 
> well they worked. If the functional capstan diameter around which the cable 
> wraps as the lever is rotated was increased.by some amount, the wonderful 
> shifting feel could carry on into the 9-Speed world. 
>
> I thought about a tube of a particular wall thickness to put the cable 
> through that had a widened end to stop in the lever's recess for the cable 
> end bead. The hole drilled through the lever for the cable enlarged enough 
> to accept both  the thickness of the cable and added sleeve. The bead 
> recess enlarged, if needed, to continue acting as the stop for both the 
> cable and the sleeve. Flexibility would help insert through the lever 
> passage, being more rigid and shaped would cause less cable tension to make 
> it take shape as would be operated and cause less "noise" to the shifting 
> function as tension is taken and given during shifts. 
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 1:51:04 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Good work.  APPROVE.  
>>
>> In 2020, 3D printing is totally dialed.  Somebody with the time and the 
>> CAD station could build a 3D model of an accessory piece that would snap 
>> onto a Silver shifter, increasing the cable pull.  Post that model on 
>> Shapeways.com and anybody in the world could click and order it in plastic 
>> or metal.  Plastic would be fine.  The price of these things are purely 
>> based on the volume of material because that represents how long the 
>> printer is running.  Such a piece would only cost a couple bucks to print.  
>> Charge $15 for it and make a decent margin.  That would be cool!  I'd buy 
>> one.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Saturday, July 25, 2020 at 8:53:12 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>>
>>> More corrections: measured with calipers and my estimates were not great 
>>> for the size of the added metal piece:
>>>
>>> 25mm long. Could probably be 20mm long and work equally well.
>>> 1.8mm wide
>>> 0.8mm thick
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

Took a quick spin tonight: it works a dream, could be a tiny fraction thicker 
but as is it leaves a meaningful amount of extra lever movement range before 
it’s stopped by the limit screws at the derailer. It could move the derailer 
another 5mm plus for top or bottom gear (enough to shift off the bottom or over 
the top gear if not stopped by the limit screws). 

Thanks Bill. I’ll send you one myself (shout me where you’d like it sent by 
email). 

I’m going to fix up another that’s a nicer finish and very tight fit so the 
glue or epoxy will almost unnecessary.

Abe

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[RBW] Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

More corrections: measured with calipers and my estimates were not great for 
the size of the added metal piece:

25mm long. Could probably be 20mm long and work equally well.
1.8mm wide
0.8mm thick

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[RBW] Cable pull modification hack for 9S shifter/cassette, 10S clutch derailleur (SRAM GX)

[Pancake]

Late night post corrections:
1. Turkey Vulture Supreme, not Ultimate. 
2. Probably zinc, not copper.
3. Tanpan is the other cable pull modifier maker.

Very much looking form suggestions to improve this. Different material? JB 
welding in place enough to make reliable? 

The rest of the bike setup:
Sam Hillborne 56cm
Dirt drop bars
VO double crankset 46/30t
Microshift friction front derailleur 
CX70 front derailleur
9-speed chain that’s now a few links too short because of the longer derailleur 
cage (had XT 9 speed RD before).

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Excitment on IG

[Pancake]

Excited for the platypus! Here is the graphic isolated, I’m ready to call mine 
Sonar (like Elmo’s teddy bear, Radar)!

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 11:32:45 AM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
> Whatever you think of the name, the decals are really great. If you aren’t on 
> Instagram, this is what you’re missing out on!
> 
> 
> Per Rivendell’s IG account, see photos...

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[RBW] Re: Painted Appaloosa - Almost Like a New Bike Day!

[Pancake]

Great bike on a perfect section of road - Yount Mill Rd is my favorite spot 
out there, just wish the Vine Trail connection going north from there would 
get started soon. One day we'll be able to ride the Bay Trail / Vine Trail 
from the ferry in Vallejo up to Calistoga, 47 miles of rolling road, I 
can't wait!
Abe

On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 1:58:05 PM UTC-7, Litho wrote:
>
> I just picked up my freshly painted Appaloosa from Rick at D Cycles 
> yesterday and spent the evening getting it all back together.  Rick did a 
> fantastic job!  It's s damn pretty.  I've wanted an orange bike for 
> going on 30 years, but every time I go to purchase an orange one, something 
> else presents itself.  This time, I took matters into my own hands and had 
> my lovely Appaloosa converted to the color of my dreams.  I bought this 
> bike the day I went to Riv intent on purchasing an orange Hillborne.  After 
> talking to Vince about the riding I was planning on doing, he suggested I 
> take the Appaloosa for a spin.  He was right and I opted for the right bike 
> over the right color.   
>
> The orange is little brighter than the recent orange Appaloosa (having 
> seen it in person) and is exactly what I've wanted.  I think I'm going to 
> swap out the brown saddle for the black one on my Atlantis.  I took it out 
> for a spin around the Napa Valley this morning and thought I'd share some 
> pictures. 
>
> [image: Appaloosa_03.jpg]
>
> [image: Appaloosa_07.jpg]
>
> [image: Appaloosa_06.jpg]
>
> [image: Appaloosa_04.jpg]
>
> [image: Appaloosa_05.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[Pancake]

Grant's earlier description was: it's like a Sam Hillborne but fits wider 
tires, has at least a swooping tube like the Suzie, and takes v-brakes. 
Sounds similar to this photo. 
I'd like to see it with the fattest tires, some Losco bars, and swoopy seat 
stays like the Clem. It'd be extra swoopy for form (matching or flowing 
from the top tube swoopiness) and function (getting that leg over doesn't 
get easier with time). A little less toe overlap than my 56cm double top 
tube Sam plus v-brakes and classy swoops ... that'll be sweet! Great look 
at the progress on this prototype, like the dirt drop stem for sure. 

Abe

On Monday, June 8, 2020 at 10:44:36 AM UTC-7, tuolumne bikes wrote:
>
> Maybe another way to say it: this is a modern Rivendell redesign of the 
> All-Rounder with long stays and swoop tube.

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Re: [RBW] Clem PreSale

[Pancake]

Not legal advice (anyone wanting actual legal advice about this, I can give 
you referrals to competent attorneys), but some scrounging on google seems 
to show that it's probably not be a problem. It looks like they are in 
difference trademark Classes at not likely to be confused:
Class 12 - "Land vehicles and conveyances, ambulances, automobiles, 
*bicycles*/cycles" according to Nolo 
.
Class 24 - Fabrics and Textile Products
Class 25 - Clothing and Apparel Products
Also, Platypus doesn't appear to be a registered trademark of the hydration 
back company, I think it's copyrighted which has different legal 
protections (more about the ability to reproduce that item under that name 
in short). 

For example, Camelbak is a similar type of hydration pack used for biking, 
hiking, running, etc. They're classified in 11, 13, 21, 23, 31, 34 if I'm 
reading the US Patent and Trademark search site  
correctly.

Also, it's a great name for a bike that has loads of useful features that 
have evolved down a weird path to be really fun looking and functional. 

Take care,
Abe

On Friday, May 22, 2020 at 3:50:20 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>
> I don't think Platypus is a viable name, because there already a Bicycle 
> product with the name Platypus! Hydration pack I think. 

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[RBW] Re: Brake lever preference with Nitto Noodles

[Pancake]

You could always try the TRP RRL levers for cheap ($14) as their imitations are 
available on Amazon: Lixada Bicycle Brake Handle 1 Pair Universal Aluminum MTB 
Mountain Bike Cycling Brake Levers Front & Rear Brake Levers Drop Handlebar Set 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F71RPPC/

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[RBW] Re: Clem H + Xtracycle

[Pancake]

Good find! And Bones will see that the Instagram x-tra cycled Clem has the 
stem mount for a Yepp front seat too!
Abe


On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 9:29:54 AM UTC-7, David B wrote:
>
> Xtracycle is possible! 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-0wCPDA_YV/
>
> On Thursday, April 16, 2020 at 10:31:28 AM UTC-5, Bones wrote:
>>
>> Not sure if this has been discussed here or not, but I'd like to hear 
>> people's thoughts on this. I spent all of last year carrying both of my 
>> kids on my Appaloosa (one in front, one in back). They are getting too big 
>> for that setup now. Though I can still handle the bike with ease, I think 
>> 80lbs is a bit too much for the bike, and it is only going to get worse. So 
>> my options, so far as I can see, are the following:
>>
>> 1) Get a bike trailer (Burley or Thule or whatnot)
>> 2) Big Dummy or Big Fat Dummy.
>> 3) Add an Xtracycle to my Clem H
>>
>> I like the idea of using the Clem the most because I really don't want to 
>> bring another bike or trailer into the house if I can help it, and I really 
>> like the Clem. So far it has been used as a trail bike, and with a few 
>> small children around, that means it doesn't get used that often. And that 
>> is a job my Appaloosa can easily fill. I have no experience with the 
>> Xtracycle leap kit though, so any suggestions here would be greatly 
>> appreciated!
>>
>>

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[RBW] arnulfo Platypus

[Pancake]

Love the name, successful and weird animals, something to aspire to, it’s gonna 
be great. V-brakes really are easy to work on and strong - I miss them on my 
Cheviot but love them on the Rosco Baby. Can someone start making the beaver 
tail mud flaps now? The Wald racks have a good pattern for it too. 
One of the Men On Mixtes,
Abe

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[RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[Pancake]

A possible issue though: confusion for Pete the Cat fans where one of the 
secondary characters is named "*Gus* the Platypus":

[image: gus.jpg]
 

On Friday, May 15, 2020 at 4:11:11 PM UTC-7, Pancake wrote:
>
> New news in the most recent email blast and blug:
>
> "We have a new design, based on Cheviots, coming after Sams which should 
> be fantastic.  Here's a picture of the small Losco'd sample:
> [image: unnamed.jpg]
> Rachel, my girlfriend, who is less biased than us and will fit the bike 
> perfectly, is going to test ride it for awhile and give us feedback. It's a 
> tiny bike for me but I can tell it rides the way we want it to. It won't 
> hurt to get a second opinion though. The model name is still TBA."
> "CHEVIOT NEWS:
> The CHEVIOT as it is, is as good a bike as we make, but we've changed a 
> few things, and unlike Specialized, which still has a Stumpjumper that's a 
> billion light years away from the 1981 Stumpjumper, we don't do that. A 
> tweak, OK, sure, same name Two tweaks and we start reconsidering. It's 
> something we get to do, although it may bum out some of you. Two 
> possibilities have emerged. In alphabetical order, they are:
> Platypus 
> Winthrop-Charlene
> Vote in the subject field of an email, like this:
> Model name / Your name
> like:
> Maxwell Smart -- Winthrop-Charlene"
>
> Obviously Platypus (the headbadge will be fantastic!) 
>
> My proposed name for the next Cheviot: "Derbyshire Gritstone" (D comes 
> after C, anything ending in "stone" fits with the current naming scheme, 
> also a UK sheep like the Cheviot). Alternative sheep names:
> Debouillet (like a Rambouillet but a sheep and with a D)
> Churra (renamed to Churro in America, could print the alternate spellings 
> on either side of the downtube like the current Cheviot/Cheviut)
> More sheep breed names here: 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sheep_breeds
>
>
> Abe
>
>
> On Thursday, April 23, 2020 at 6:42:42 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> It lives, it's in the new newsletter and here's the pic. I have the 
>> somewhat dubious distinction (I think) of being the first "outsider" to 
>> know about this project when Grant and Will mentioned it to me at RBW last 
>> year. So now I'll start the thread!
>>
>> It's fancy and swoopy and I dig it. I also dig the original name and 
>> decals (and sheep) so I'm adding my non-requested vote for keeping them. 
>> Check it out, it's pretty! 
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>> Marin County CA.  
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe's Custom

[Pancake]

Looks fantastic Joe! How do you like those DXR  MX70 brakes? 

I read about you having the rear shifter on the British side, but does the 
cable on the down tube touch or run the frame at all? Looks so close in the 
photos and wouldn’t want that Joe Bell paint to see a scuff. 

Clem wheels and tires on it too? 

Love those Losco bars, shows lots of stem but the bars look ideal. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[Pancake]

Thanks for the pics! 
Noticed v-brakes in rear but not front, wonder if that’s just them waiting on 
different forks and nothing yet for prototypes or if the plan is for some 
asymmetry. 
Very good look to them, can’t wait to see the final version!

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Small Clem L, Cheviot, or other Riv Step-Thru or Mixte

[Pancake]

While that Clem L is just perfect, I should have mentioned I’m in the used / 
budget market. 

While I buy lots of bits and bobs new from Riv, the only bike I bought directly 
from them was also a used double top tube Sam bully up and well ridden for 
$1,000. 

Thanks for looking out! Maybe Joe will but that Clem L and I’ll but his used 
frame after! You’d look great on that blue Clem Joe ...

Abe 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Small Clem L, Cheviot, or other Riv Step-Thru or Mixte

[Pancake]

Now that Justin is not looking any longer, I’m interested in the same bikes if 
anyone is selling (in Napa, Ca but can travel an hour or two for pickup). 
Looking for something for my wife with a 72cm PBH so 45cm Clem L or 47cm 
Cheviot or something similar. 

Lovey bike you found instead though Justin!

Abe

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[RBW] Re: Fs: Rivendell Grabsack V1/original

[Pancake]

Gustavo, did I buy a VO front rack from you a couple years ago (and looked 
at a few of your other bags like Ostrich or some other nice bags)? The rack 
is still working nicely on my Cheviot.
Abe

On Friday, May 1, 2020 at 7:07:04 AM UTC-7, Gustavo Vasquez wrote:
>
> Hi all! New to the group. 
> I have what appears to be a like new (if not new) Rivendell Grabsack, this 
> one has the “V brand” logo. Never really used it. 
>
> Color is something close to tan/khaki 
>
> $65 shipped within USA (PayPal), or $50 local pickup? 
> Located in Santa Rosa, CA 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[Pancake]

Happy to have my bike confused for one of Leah’s!

The rear seat is just for looks for now - though we are hoping to adopt a 
second child! Currently the rear rack is a support rack, not enough weight 
bearing for a baby seat. But I have a suitable rack ready for the rear seat 
(max 40 pounds) once our little girl is too big for the front seat (max 33 
pounds).

I would be thrilled if things line up so I can have babies both in front and 
back one day though! And after that I’ll be happy to make the Rosco Baby into a 
bike packing mountain trail machine, it’s flexy and stout all at once, really a 
great ride!

Abe

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[RBW] Re: beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

[Pancake]

Some polish wouldn’t hurt but it won’t do much. Options:
(1) If you can get or mix some matching-ish paint and fill it in with a tiny 
paint brush or even a toothpick. A little denatured alcohol to smooth down 
lumps of excess paint. Nail polish could also work. 
(2) Embrace it as is, won’t hurt anything.
(3) Wrap it, nice look and means you can do anything you like further down the 
road.
Abe

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[RBW] beautifying beausage: caring for worn paint

[Pancake]

I recommended Meguier’s Ultimate Compound in the earlier thread, great stuff 
you can work with by hand and a towel, you really can’t screw it up. 

Any chance you could post some photos of the damage? Restore paint works great. 
Mix a couple to get it close. Or just any fingernail polish if you’re inclined 
to simply fill a chip - blood red could be nice. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 50cm MIT Atlantis with 26” wheels?

[Pancake]

PBH 73cm means no luck with the 50cm Atlantis =(
Seller is very pleasant and helpful, someone should get this bike including 
the nice dynamo and light: 
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bik/d/santa-cruz-2018-rivendell-bicycle-works/7106843471.html

*So now I'm in the market for a 47cm Cheviot (listed on the geometry page 
but not as a frame option on the sales page?) or 45cm Clem L. *

Thanks for all the help, hopefully someone else picks this up.
Abe

On Tuesday, April 14, 2020 at 1:29:22 PM UTC-7, Pancake wrote:
>
> I'm going to convince my wife to remeasure her PBH in a bit, but I 
> strongly suspect this is a bit too big for her (5'2", PBH TBD).
>
> On Tue, Apr 14, 2020 at 1:24 PM Joe Bernard 
>
>> Abe, here's the PBH chart (which is harder to find on the site than it 
>> should be). Minimum PBH is 80cm, minimum saddle height 69cm (assuming 170mm 
>> cranks). It would fit me great at 5'-6" with Albas or Boscos. 
>>
>> https://www.rivbike.com/pages/pubic-bone-height-how-to-measure-your-pbh
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: 50cm MIT Atlantis with 26” wheels?

[Pancake]

Great sleuthing everyone! I emailed the seller and they referred me to the 
geometry page as well and told me it’s a 2018 bike. 

Can anyone advise me on the correct PBH range for that model? If it’s a fit 
I’ll be driving to Santa Cruz ASAP!

Thanks for the quick work everyone!
Abe

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[RBW] 50cm MIT Atlantis with 26” wheels?

[Pancake]

Someone is selling their Atlantis on Craigslist - it has 26” wheels (in the 
photos and description) but the frame size is listed as 50cm ... I thought only 
the 47cm frame has 26” wheels, is that right or is there some way a 50cm frame 
would have 26” wheels?

Hoping it’s actually a 47cm so I can get it for my shortie / wife.

Abe

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[RBW] Re: What Is a Cheviot?

[Pancake]

On Friday, March 27, 2020 at 8:11:02 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
> Bicycle Belle started this topic on another thread and I think it would be 
> interesting to dive into. I think it's a road bike or Country Bike like a 
> Homer, someone else said it was kinda equal to a Clem, and Will @ Riv uses 
> his as a 2-speed on dirt trails (but he's crazy!). What do YOU think a 
> Cheviot is? 
> 
> Joe Bernard
> Marin County CA.

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[RBW] Re: Widest wide range double chainring setup? How wide is too wide?

[Pancake]

Thanks to recommendations on this list (and from looking at Analog's article 
)
 
I ended up with:
46/30 front rings on Velo Orange double crankset with Shimano RX100 
derailleur
11-40t sunrace cassette 9 speed with Shimano XT long cage derailleur (the 
LX also worked)

*Huge range (exactly the same as my prior 46/36/24 triple and 11-34t 
cassette*), normal and widely available derailleurs/cassette, and similar 
cranksets can be found for less than $100 (though not at pretty as this 
shiny VO model that's not available anymore). 

When cross chained small front, small rear, there's a chain rub on the 
teeth of the large chainring which some .6mm spacers will eventually 
correct, but for now it doesn't happen that I'm ever cross chained that way 
so no problem!

Abe "in a valley where he wants range for flats and hills"

On Friday, March 13, 2020 at 11:41:37 AM UTC-7, James / Analog Cycles wrote:
>
> We've run 46/20 with a 12-36 out back with fine success.  Middleburn lets 
> you run a 110 big ring, no middle ring and 58 bcd granny gear for said 
> combo.  Friction shifts fine with TA rings.  The resulting gear range is 
> super wide.  690% gear range.  
>
> -James / Analog Cycles / Tanglefoot Cycles / Fifth Season Canvas / Discord 
> Components
>
> On Friday, March 5, 2010 at 5:38:42 PM UTC-5, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>> I'm running Ritchey/Sugino cranks on my Hillborne and another set
>> waiting for me to pay off my Bombadil.  These are 94/58mm bolt circle
>> cranks.  I love them and would but 5 more sets in 172.5 if I could.
>> They both came with 22/32/42 chainrings.  I am running the Hilborne
>> right now as a wider range triple:  22/34/46.  The cranks that are
>> going on to the Bombadil were last used as a double on a cyclocross
>> bike and worked great with a 30/44 with Campy ergo brifters.  I'm
>> wondering what's the biggest jump on a double you've run.  Kevens
>> dream Bomba has a 24/40, for 16t of jump.  34/50 is standard on
>> compact road cranks nowadays.  I'm thinking of trying a 46/29 on these
>> Ritchey arms.  I've never run TA or TA-style cranks that I think allow
>> even more flexibility.  Has anyone ever run a 20+ tooth jump between
>> two chainrings?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Hillborne: talk me out of 48mm Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX TR

[Pancake]

>
> The Compass tire is nice but I had to many issues so I had the Shikoro 48s 
> on my 56 Sam. NOt as supple but smooth and no flats.

Very good to hear, maybe this will be my next tire ... for now I've got the 
38mm G-one speed tires arriving in the mail today (hopefully). Very helpful 
to know (1) the 48mm Shikoro fits and (2) they flat less ... my Snoqualmie 
pass tires got too many goathead flats which lead me to get them setup 
tubeless, which lead to this tubeless failure from too high pressure and/or 
too worn tires. 44mm seemed great size for the Sam, but I'm curious to try 
"narrow" 38mm tires again for the first time in several years. 

My current setup is the Snoqualmie tires with tubes, I'll wear them down 
until May when I'll try the g-one speed tires on my second Century ride 
(Santa Rosa Wine Country Century for anyone who might be there too!). I 
keep 2 oz of Panaracer Smart Seal tubeless sealant in the tubes for the 
goat heads now that I'm not tubeless anymore.

I have a set of resist nomad 700 x 45d in skinwall which came off of my Sam 
> Hillborne that I that I would sell.  Total dark horse in this category and 
> I believe they are out of production.

I've never heard of these (please PM me a price shipped to Napa, CA). A 
quick googling about showed some positive reviews about these significantly 
lower price tires ($23 new currently). Though, as you said, not available 
in skinwall anymore .. but they are available in all black or *bright red* 
sidewall:
https://demolitionparts.com/product/nomad-tires-by-resist-parts/



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[RBW] Re: Tires for Hillborne: talk me out of 48mm Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX TR

[Pancake]

I suspect the Soma Supple Vitesse would have fit based on the Big Bens that 
barely fit according to these photos from another list member:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/46035786@N07/with/15831687195/

But I’m happy with having ordered the 38mm g-one speed tires. I’ll wear them 
out and call it a learning experience ... now where to find those 2,000+ miles 
to wear them down ... 

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Hillborne: talk me out of 48mm Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX TR

[Pancake]

I’m convinced Adam, though I ordered the “Speed” because that’s what I have on 
my Rosco Baby (albeit in 60mm width) and I really enjoy them. I don’t get the 
Sam in much dirt (the Rosco, my Cheviot, or, if needed, my Salsa El Mariachi!) 
so it’s my “go slightly faster bike” that will enjoy much more pavement and 
occasional gravel/dirt. 

No tan sidewalls, not as wide, but a bit cheaper and possibly better puncture 
resistance than the Snoqualmie Pass tires I guess. 

Abe

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Hillborne: talk me out of 48mm Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX TR

[Pancake]

Thanks for the quick reply. Bikes are kept in the garage (inside). 

I also use the Basketball tires on my Cheviot, 42mm, reflective sidewalls, can 
be found for close to $20 AND the VERY rarely flat on me (maybe twice in 3,000 
miles, just switched to a new pair about 200 miles ago). They’re my backup plan 
for the Hillborne, but I like to fancy it up a bit because it’s got a fun 
background. 

I am curious if anyone has fit 48mm Soma Supple Vitesse tires on a 56cm Sam 
Hillborne? Or similar tubeless compatible tires in about that size?

Do you keep your bike outside?  I've had a few Compass Steilacoom and Barlow 
Pass blow out in the sidewalls all of a sudden (scary, in traffic each time), 
and my theory is it's sun exposure degrading the sidewall after a year or so 
outdoors in NY.   I recently replaced with Conti basketball tires, they are 
wonderful if not quite as supple, 42 w/ fenders on Cheviot (should be very 
similar to Sam). 

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[RBW] Tires for Hillborne: talk me out of 48mm Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX TR

[Pancake]

My Compass Snoqualmie Pass tires are worn out according to Rene Herse - the 
rear tire blew (it was setup tubeless), probably I was running a pressure too 
high (at the tubeless max, 60 psi). Now that I’m looking to replace them I was 
considering these wider 48mm Soma Fabrications Supple Vitesse EX TR tires. Can 
anybody talk me out of these or into something better? I’d like them to be 
tubeless compatible, but it’s not necessary. Could go for anything between 40mm 
and whatever the limit for the Sam with no fenders (apparently up to 45mm but 
some have fit up to 50mm depending on the rim and brake setup).

My rims are Alex Adventurer II (slightly less wise than Cliffhangers, but wider 
than Atlas rims).

Abe “what was the popping noise!” in Napa

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[RBW] Advice Needed: Best Remedy for a Slipping Hunqapillar Seatpost

[Pancake]

I have one of those surly hangers if you want. Postage plus $2 and it’s yours. 
But I agree with the others that friction paste is the first thing to try. 

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