from:"fenderbender"


Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2
shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the
president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my
doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A!


On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:
 I just noticed this for the first time:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiPcpnylK-4feature=channel
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[RBW] Re: Rivlike BIkes


Well it's back to Rivlike Bike now but how on earth could this
happen?



On 11 Jan, 13:06, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm sure that was a mistake

 On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote:



  Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2
  shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the
  president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my
  doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A!

  On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

   I just noticed this for the first time:

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiPcpnylK-4feature=channel- Dölj citerad 
  text -

 - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Re: Nitto Big Rear Rack

Just for the record, I don't own the current model of Nitto rear rack
that Rivendell designate as Big Back Rack. But I did recently buy a
similar rack witch I think is the older version with out the extra
truss support like this one:
http://home.earthlink.net/~dangoldenberg/images/Atlantisfall.jpg

It was referred to as Nitto R20 by the shop and on the bag it says MT
Campee Mountain (Rear). It measure 33cm from the lower hole straight
up to the underside of the platform. This is 2cm shorter than the
Tubus Cargo small (for 26 wheels) and 3cm shorter than the Tubus Vega
I have on my other bikes.

So I'm quite confident in saying that it was made to fit frames with
559mm/26 wheels. I'm sure there are lots of folks here that have been
able to fit it to bikes with both 584/650B and 622/700c wheels too but
that is what the numbers indicate.

What I dont understand is why Riv tell you there are only one size?
Their site say Two versions: Medium, for frames up to about 57cm; and
Big, for frames bigger than that but question is how these two
differs?

Either way it's been on the market for many years so you can't be the
first to run in to these issues. I think Rivendell site should at
least state that they are low and told you this when you called them
as they make claim to the design.

I would recommend you to return it and buy a stainless Tubus or the
another Nitto rack also called Campee. I would guess it's a bit taller
and better suited to your frame:
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=874zenid=11386daec2e62989fb33c8a8c9322854
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?main_page=product_infoproducts_id=2290zenid=11386daec2e62989fb33c8a8c9322854

On 11 Jan, 04:01, mok ms...@comcast.net wrote:
Thanks. I asked Rivendell. That was the only size that rack comes
in, so I was going to have a SS piece machined by one of my customers,
but I think I will give that a try. Take care,

Mok

On Jan 10, 6:43 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote:

Welcome Mok!
I'm a newbie here too but been tinkering with bikes as long I can
remember. My guess is that you have the wrong size of the rack. Only
solution I can see is raise it a bit by using a Tubus Lower Rack
Mounting Kit or similar. But the kit rely on two mounting holes so
you may have to rework it a
bit:http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/FIT%20SOLUTIONS%...

On 10 Jan, 04:24, mok ms...@comcast.net wrote:

Hello all,

I am a newbie to the site. I just received my above rack. It looks
wonderful and solid. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had the same
issue I am having. The top of the rear SKS fender, which I bought
here, hits the bottom of the rack. It is on the upper eyelet, and it
is all level, but it still hits just a bit to much. I would like to
raise the fender just a bit to get better tire clearence. I was
wondering if they (or anyone) makes an adapter or something to
actually raise the rear rack vertically. I could alway rigs something
from a custom piece of SS, but I would like to use what was made for
this if at all.

I appreciate any advise and comments on this. Happy New Year to
all.

Mok- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text -

[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?


The only bars I've broken has been crashes prior to this and neither
were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000
series alu too!

In RR39/Summer-03 issue Grant had a very interesting interview with
the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa:

Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and
still pass your standards?

A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter
than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade material.

Q: So the 7000 series is stronger?

A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when
there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the
2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if
it bends instead of breaking.

Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five
years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed?

A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make
aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is
significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and
stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is
safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It
is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this.


On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis?  

 Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in
 a shoulder dislocating crash  only luck kept him from being hit by a car.
 When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences.
 Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the
 bike I ride all the time.  FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so
 perhaps I'm just a klutz.

 dougP
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[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?


The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and
neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or
7000 series too as most were on my mtb! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there
was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of
Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa by Grant:

Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and
still pass your standards?

A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter
than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade
material.

Q: So the 7000 series is stronger?

A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when
there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the
2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if
it bends instead of breaking.

Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five
years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed?

A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make
aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is
significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and
stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is
safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It
is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this.

On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis?  

 Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in
 a shoulder dislocating crash  only luck kept him from being hit by a car.
 When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences.
 Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the
 bike I ride all the time.  FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so
 perhaps I'm just a klutz.

 dougP
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[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?


To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent
or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to
that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably
were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very
interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr.
Akira Yoshikawa by Grant:

Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and
still pass your standards?

A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter
than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade
material.

Q: So the 7000 series is stronger?

A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when
there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the
2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if
it bends instead of breaking.

Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five
years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed?

A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make
aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is
significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and
stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is
safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It
is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this.

Edit: Sorry for the gremins, needed to re-wrote some.

On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis?  

 Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting in
 a shoulder dislocating crash  only luck kept him from being hit by a car.
 When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences.
 Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on the
 bike I ride all the time.  FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so
 perhaps I'm just a klutz.

 dougP
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[RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?


Thanks, guess I was running on fumes. But the google forum lack of
edit functions paired with a tired 'ol Win98 do ad to the fun. :)

On 11 Jan, 18:19, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote:
 Did you finally get some coffee?



   - Original Message -
   From: fenderbender
   To: RBW Owners Bunch
   Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 6:49 AM
   Subject: [RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?

   To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent
   or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to
   that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably
   were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very
   interesting interview with the president and designer of Nitto Mr.
   Akira Yoshikawa by Grant:

   Q: For a 200lb (91kg) road rider, how light can a bar be made and
   still pass your standards?

   A: The lightest is 260g. About 250-260g. If you try to make it lighter
   than 200g you have to use 7075. You have to use better grade
   material.

   Q: So the 7000 series is stronger?

   A: The tensile strength is higher, yes, but the problem is that, when
   there is high impact, the 7075 breaks because it's brittle. With the
   2000 series, it bends easier. We think it is safer for the consumer if
   it bends instead of breaking.

   Q: I've heard that aluminium handlebars should be replaced every five
   years. Do you agree with this? Even if thy have not been crashed?

   A: The life span of aluminium is shorter than steel. If you make
   aluminium handlebars and don't even use it for ten years, it is
   significantly weaker than when it was new. We know our handlebars and
   stems are quite strong, of course, but when they are aluminium, it is
   safest to replace them before they break, or show sign of breaking. It
   is a personal judgement from the rider, as to when to do this.

   Edit: Sorry for the gremins, needed to re-wrote some.

   On 8 Jan, 19:05, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
    Do you replace your handlebars on a regular basis?

    Years ago, a friend had his handlebars snap off near the stem, resulting 
 in
    a shoulder dislocating crash  only luck kept him from being hit by a car.
    When I mentioned this incident, several riders had similar experiences.
    Since then, I've taken the precaution of replacing bars every 5 years on 
 the
    bike I ride all the time. FWIW, I've also had 2 aluminum frames fail so
    perhaps I'm just a klutz.

    dougP- Dölj citerad text -

 - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Re: Nitto Big Rear Rack

2009-01-10 Thread fenderbender


Welcome Mok!
I'm a newbie here too but been tinkering with bikes as long I can
remember. My guess is that you have the wrong size of the rack. Only
solution I can see is raise it a bit by using a Tubus Lower Rack
Mounting Kit or similar. But the kit rely on two mounting holes so
you may have to rework it a bit:
http://www.thetouringstore.com/TUBUS/Fit%20Solutions/FIT%20SOLUTIONS%20PAGE.htm


On 10 Jan, 04:24, mok ms...@comcast.net wrote:
 Hello all,

 I am a newbie to the site.  I just received my above rack.  It looks
 wonderful and solid.  Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had the same
 issue I am having.  The top of the rear SKS fender, which I bought
 here,  hits the bottom of the rack.  It is on the upper eyelet, and it
 is all level, but it still hits just a bit to much.  I would like to
 raise the fender just a bit to get better tire clearence.  I was
 wondering if they (or anyone) makes an adapter or something to
 actually raise the rear rack vertically.  I could alway rigs something
 from a custom piece of SS, but I would like to use what was made for
 this if at all.

 I appreciate any advise and comments on this.  Happy New Year to
 all.

 Mok
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[RBW] Re: Hillborn v. Tournado

2009-01-08 Thread fenderbender


Not tried either but I did check both a few years ago. Remember
stumbling on a well regarded frame builders site and reading his
report of having to re-braze quite a few Break-Away frames. There were
some pictures too and he described it as causing the lower clamp
breaking. Anyone know more about this?
I haven't heard of a broken SS coupling but I would think it's better
suited to loaded touring.

As I also had a couple of lugged frames in need of refurbishing, my
plan was to have them converted a'la Herse Demountable instead! But
due to problem of sourcing a reliable welder local the project has
been put on the backburner for now. Once finished it should look some
what similar to this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bensondoc/sets/72157601730455819/

Btw, anyone know if the SS foldable backpack case is worth getting?
http://www.sandsmachine.com/ac_back.htm

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[RBW] Re: Respacing a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub


Thanks for your replies.
Frames are all spaced differently. I'm cold setting the road frames
from 124/126 to 130mm so there shouldn't be an issue spreading them.

But my question was for the hub and when mounting it to a mtb frame it
seem like I can reduce the spacers with 2-3 mm on the drive side.
As the mtb and road hubs only differs in terms of overall spacing this
would lead to less dish. So if this works I should there for end up
with a stronger rather than weaker wheel. At the very least I would
keep the same amount of wheel dish.

Had no idea they were Uniglide compatible too. Strange as I raced in
the early 90's with such XTR group on a my Marin Team Issue, witch was
later move to a Litespeed Obed before selling. Remember having to
repack them and not only was the grease hard, there wasn't enough of
it! But after that they stayed very smooth so no doubt will I do that
when I remove the spacers. Found a nos 170 mm crankset and some
48-38-26 TA chainrings at bargain price in Paris after last PBP! Did
some what reduce the pain of my DNF.


On 7 Jan, 02:05, Atlantean softlysoftlycatcheemon...@gmail.com
wrote:
 I have one of those hubs on a mountain bike. It is sweet! Nearly
 silent, for some reason. Anyway, I would not mess with it unless
 absolutely necessary, for a couple of reasons. IIRC, the clearance on
 the right side, between the lockring and dropout, is pretty tight.
 Mine has a freehub that will accept a modern cassette with a lock ring
 or an older one with the smallest cog threaded to hold it all
 together. So it has external threads as well as internal. It will take
 an 11t cog, but only with a 1mm spacer on the back of the cassette,
 which makes the clearance even less.

 Respacing will almost certainly cause you to have more dish in the
 wheel than you would if you leave it at 135. It's an 8 speed hub, so
 there is already a lot of offset. I routinely use 130mm road hubs in
 old frames by just spreading the frame when I install the wheel. If
 you are going to use indexed shifting, you may need to adjust the
 derailer hanger a bit, a simple operation.

 I have heard of the grease in some NOS Shimano hubs hardening over the
 years, so you might want to watch out for that. Those are some fine
 bearings in there. That M900 stuff is lovely and it all works great.
 I'm still watching for some of the cranks, but they are getting pretty
 scarce.

 Good luck with your project!

 On Jan 6, 12:51 pm, Ray Colmenar tatay...@gmail.com wrote:



  if the road frame is 132mm, you might not need to respace.  If it's a steel
  frame, you can usually just spread the chainstays ok.  If you do need to
  respace, I would suggest just getting thinner spacers.  You may have to get
  a shorter axle though depending on the frame you have.

  On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 11:33 AM, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote:

   First like to wish you all a happy new year!
   Recently found this nos early 90's 8sp XTR M900 32h 135 mm hub in a
   shop parts bin. More info here:
  http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_shimano.html
   Thought I might build it up with some new 650B rims and a dynamo hub
   up front. As I have both mtb and road steel frames in store I thought
   it would be a good idea to respace the hub to 132 mm. This way I can
   use them for either types and see witch frame it suite the best.
   Remember reading some where that it was possible to remove or grind
   down some of the washers on the drive side and still have room for the
   chain to clear the fork ends. Would this work or do I need to respace
   the left side too? Do I need to alter any numbers when I calculate the
   spoke length? It came without a quick release so would a old Ultegra
   look-a-like work? Grateful to hear of any other issues I might run
   into.- Hide quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: Hillbourne With Paint


It is confusing and I probably miss the point. But I'm not sure it's a
good to introduce yet another term and at the same time claim to bring
cycling back to normal people.
I guess it's a bit to do with the fact that expanded as well as
compact frame's are design to fit a bigger range of body sizes. But
why not just state the actual frame size together with the range of
sizes it replace?
Seem like Kogswell already use this expanded frame type. But they
state the size measured from the center of the BB all the way to the
tip of the extended seat tube witch I find better correspond to the
old tried and true: http://www.kogswell.com/siteGEOblue.php
Never the less it's a lovely allround frame I would sertainly buy one
it wasn't so expensive to ship/import. Could get a custome frame built
for the same mone here in Europe!


On 7 Jan, 16:39, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 From what I can tell, expanded differs from compact only in terms
 of how we measure the frame size - in other words, it's a matter of
 measurement convention rather than a practical difference. Compact
 frames are often measured along the seat tube based on where the top-
 tube would be if it was horizontal. Therefore, a 56 cm compact frame
 may have an actual seat tube that is only 52 cm c-c. If we use the
 same sizing scheme to measure the new Hillborne, a 56 cm is actually a
 62 cm, or thereabouts. Suddenly tall people ride a 56 Rivendell, but a
 63 cm Trek/Specialized/Cannondale/Etc. To long-time Rivendell fans,
 this new world order is going to take some mental adjustment... Of
 course, the bars can probably be raised higher on the 56 Riv than on
 most 63 cm bikes.

 Another brand we sell formerly used a virtual seat tube measurement
 for frame size, but switched to actual seat tube measurement a year
 ago. Thus, a 2007 frame designated as a 58 cm compact was in 2008
 designated a 54 cm expanded. They don't use the terms expanded and
 compact, just the numbers. Nothing changed but the measurement
 technique. Confusing, what?

 Jim

 On Jan 7, 7:02 am, Will wpm...@gmail.com wrote:



  It's interesting that the Sam frame design is 'expanded,' which is
  not at all like 'compact.' The top tube slopes up 6 degrees... This
  seems to me to be a departure from the usual 2-degree top tube we've
  seen on most other RBW road models. A change in design philosophy?

  On Jan 6, 11:56 pm, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:

   Nice color, attractive without screaming look at me.  Classy.  
   Especially
   like the braze on for the shifter cables.

   More photos - rack mount details?  Maybe a bike fully racked up?  Aw, come
   on, it'll only take a few hoursplease?

   dougP

   -Original Message-
   From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

   [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of John at Rivendell
   Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:35 PM
   To: RBW Owners Bunch
   Subject: [RBW] Hillbourne With Paint

   Here are a few pictures of the green Hillbourne, just posted to the
   site.

  http://www.rivbike.com/#product=50-700

   Cheers,

   John at Rivendell
   Ulaan Batar Branch Office- Dölj citerad text -

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[RBW] Re: What panniers are these?


[url=http://www.basil.nl/gb/assortment/]Basil[/url] has some practical
and quite good looking [url=http://www.basil.nl/assortiment_detail.asp?
titel_var=2lang=3id=1663]rear panniers[/url]. Sold by [url=http://
www.velo-orange.com/baka2pa.html]VeloOrange[/url] and not cheep but
seem like good value.

On 5 Jan, 17:39, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  There are a number of small operations around the country sewing handmade 
  messenger bags and
  cycling caps that seem to do good business in that niche, so I wonder why 
  very few have turned to traditional bicycle luggage.

 At least one small US vendor is now making panniers:

 http://lemolobags.wordpress.com/

 I am somewhat tempted, although my Ortliebs work fine.  I like
 supporting these cottage industries, and the bags have more of a
 'real' feel to them than the functional but bland Ortlieb panniers.

 Lemolo makes some other good products.  I suspect these panniers are
 the real deal.

 On Jan 4, 10:25 pm, scott clankbonesh...@gmail.com wrote:



  That is a bummer as there aren't really any canvas panniers on the
  market right now. The Berthouds are too expensive for me. The
  Carradice panniers are available in England, but I'm not totally
  excited by the Super C bags. Ostrich looks nice, but availability?
  Minnihaha panniers look like they might not hold up on a tour or to
  time for that matter. Frost River is gone. What else is there? Acorn
  mentioned something on the horizon. Velo Orange plans on something.
  But the market is pretty dead right now. There are a number of small
  operations around the country sewing handmade messenger bags and
  cycling caps that seem to do good business in that niche, so I wonder
  why very few have turned to traditional bicycle luggage. Acorn has to
  stop taking orders in under two days now the orders come so briskly,
  and they manage to keep their prices very low and quality very high,
  in my opinion, so I guess the whole point to my little pannier rant is
  I hope some other options present themselves. Oh, and by the way, is
  it obvious that I am in the market for a new set of panniers right
  now?
  On Jan 4, 8:58 pm, Weird Harold alanpcr...@yahoo.com wrote:

   I was at Rivendell yesterday and casually asked if they planned to
   offer panniers. The answer was probably not anytime soon.

   On Jan 2, 1:32 pm, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:

Jim is correct - those are old(er) Berthoud bags, and that image has
been around for quite a long time (in internet years).

Happy New Year!

Gino

On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 9:22 AM, Frankwurst fbr...@jwperry.com wrote:

 I hope your right and the are Nigels. Nothing against Berthouds but I
 still think Nigels are the cats meow.

 On Jan 2, 10:52 am, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 10:51 AM, William Henderson

 william.c.hender...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://asset3.rivbike.com/images/static/home_splash/5.jpg?1182737528

  Perhaps the new Riv-made panniers I've heard rumblings about?

 They look like Berthoud to me. Could be prototypes though, in the 
 Nigel style.

 --
 Bill Connell
 St. Paul, MN- Hide quoted text -

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[RBW] Re: What panniers are these?


VO also sell some practical and quite good looking duch bags:
http://www.velo-orange.com/baka2pa.html

On 5 Jan, 17:39, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  There are a number of small operations around the country sewing handmade 
  messenger bags and
  cycling caps that seem to do good business in that niche, so I wonder why 
  very few have turned to traditional bicycle luggage.

 At least one small US vendor is now making panniers:

 http://lemolobags.wordpress.com/

 I am somewhat tempted, although my Ortliebs work fine.  I like
 supporting these cottage industries, and the bags have more of a
 'real' feel to them than the functional but bland Ortlieb panniers.

 Lemolo makes some other good products.  I suspect these panniers are
 the real deal.

 On Jan 4, 10:25 pm, scott clankbonesh...@gmail.com wrote:



  That is a bummer as there aren't really any canvas panniers on the
  market right now. The Berthouds are too expensive for me. The
  Carradice panniers are available in England, but I'm not totally
  excited by the Super C bags. Ostrich looks nice, but availability?
  Minnihaha panniers look like they might not hold up on a tour or to
  time for that matter. Frost River is gone. What else is there? Acorn
  mentioned something on the horizon. Velo Orange plans on something.
  But the market is pretty dead right now. There are a number of small
  operations around the country sewing handmade messenger bags and
  cycling caps that seem to do good business in that niche, so I wonder
  why very few have turned to traditional bicycle luggage. Acorn has to
  stop taking orders in under two days now the orders come so briskly,
  and they manage to keep their prices very low and quality very high,
  in my opinion, so I guess the whole point to my little pannier rant is
  I hope some other options present themselves. Oh, and by the way, is
  it obvious that I am in the market for a new set of panniers right
  now?
  On Jan 4, 8:58 pm, Weird Harold alanpcr...@yahoo.com wrote:

   I was at Rivendell yesterday and casually asked if they planned to
   offer panniers. The answer was probably not anytime soon.

   On Jan 2, 1:32 pm, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:

Jim is correct - those are old(er) Berthoud bags, and that image has
been around for quite a long time (in internet years).

Happy New Year!

Gino

On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 9:22 AM, Frankwurst fbr...@jwperry.com wrote:

 I hope your right and the are Nigels. Nothing against Berthouds but I
 still think Nigels are the cats meow.

 On Jan 2, 10:52 am, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 10:51 AM, William Henderson

 william.c.hender...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://asset3.rivbike.com/images/static/home_splash/5.jpg?1182737528

  Perhaps the new Riv-made panniers I've heard rumblings about?

 They look like Berthoud to me. Could be prototypes though, in the 
 Nigel style.

 --
 Bill Connell
 St. Paul, MN- Hide quoted text -

  - Show quoted text -- Dölj citerad text -

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[RBW] Respacing a Shimano M900 XTR rear hub

2009-01-06 Thread fenderbender


First like to wish you all a happy new year!
Recently found this nos early 90's 8sp XTR M900 32h 135 mm hub in a
shop parts bin. More info here:
http://www.bikepro.com/products/hubs/hubs_shimano.html
Thought I might build it up with some new 650B rims and a dynamo hub
up front. As I have both mtb and road steel frames in store I thought
it would be a good idea to respace the hub to 132 mm. This way I can
use them for either types and see witch frame it suite the best.
Remember reading some where that it was possible to remove or grind
down some of the washers on the drive side and still have room for the
chain to clear the fork ends. Would this work or do I need to respace
the left side too? Do I need to alter any numbers when I calculate the
spoke length? It came without a quick release so would a old Ultegra
look-a-like work? Grateful to hear of any other issues I might run
into.
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[RBW] Re: Nekkid Sam Hillborne Photos Posted

2008-12-17 Thread fenderbender


Very nice, but the price hike will put it out of reach for many.
Especially for those of us not living in the US.

On 17 Dec, 09:40, CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Just about to shut things down tonight when I wandered over to the RBW site
 and noticed that they had added photos and deposit/order info on the Sam
 Hillborne.

 It's nekkid (not painted or powdercoated), but you get a pretty good sense
 of the design.  

 http://www.rivbike.com/#product=50-700

 Nicely appointed - looks like a threaded seatstay for fender mounting,
 kickstand plate/chainstay bridge, fender and rack bosses at the rear
 dropout, plus midstay bosses.  Can't wait to see the first one all dolled up
 and ready to roll!

 - Jim

 --
 Jim Edgar
 cyclofi...@earthlink.net

 Three T-shirts Now Available:
 I've Got Downtube Shifters... S/S T-shirt
 Cyclocross - More Cowbell L/S T-shirt
 One Cog - Zero Excuses L/S T-shirthttp://www.cyclofiend.com/stuff

 And a 2009 Calendar -http://www.cyclofiend.com/calendar

 Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
 Current Classics - Cross Bikes
 Singlespeed - Working Bikes
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[RBW] Re: cassettes vs freewheels

2008-12-17 Thread fenderbender


Thanks for that info! Never occurred to me it could be the same
distance.
Checked with the collected wisdom of Sheldon and sure enough!
I'll try it out and see what happens as it's a nice set of french made
Roval wheels. Very aero in the 80's witch I guess is why Specialized
had to go and buy the rights for the name.

On 17 Dec, 04:56, Bill M. bmenn...@comcast.net wrote:
 Are you thinking of their early Synchro shifters?  That was pretty
 much unuseable IIRC.  I've only ever owned one set of Ergo levers, and
 they shift very well.  They're currently back on my Riv Road Std,
 which is as close as I have to a 'racing' bike.  Now they are paired
 with an 8 speed Shimano cassette and a Shift Mate, but they were fine
 with the 7 speed freewheels I was running ten years ago.

 Google found some comments from Sheldon Brown on Campy Synchro:

 http://en.allexperts.com/q/Bicycle-Repair-1824/2008/1/Campy-Shimano-c...

 Bill

 On Dec 16, 4:44 pm, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:



  On Tue, 2008-12-16 at 16:34 -0800, Bill M. wrote:
   Campy's 8 speed stuff used the same spacing as 7 speed, it was only
   Shimano's that was different.  I used 8 speed Ergo with 7 speed Sachs
   freewheels.  It worked fine with no tinkering needed.  I believe that
   any 7 speed should work, FW or cassette.  All you should have to do is
   adjust the limit stops on the derailleur to keep from throwing the
   chain to the inside.

  Campagnolo's indexing used to be pure crap; then it changed and became
  good.  When was that change?- Dölj citerad text -

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[RBW] Re: cassettes vs freewheels


Sorry, but with all you experts assembled could I just ask what to do
with these early aero wheels given to me?
They are virtualy new and have tubular rims with 7sp (?) freewheel
hubs. I'd like to fit them to a 90's italian roadbike that have 8sp
Campa Ergopower shifters.
Could I find or build a freewheel that would work with those shifters?
Any thoughts on what good value tubulars to choose for centuries/long
distance events?
Thanks, and a wheely Merry Christmas to you all!


On 5 Dec, 17:31, palin...@his.com wrote:
 Quoting PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com:





  On Thu, Dec 4, 2008 at 11:33 AM, tallsteelbikes ash...@gmail.com wrote:

  On Dec 3, 4:36 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

   But 8 sp was indeed slightly closer spaced than 7 -- which is why,
   presumably, they went with 130 instead of 126 OL spacing.

  They went with 130 because the hub required more spacing and more
  dish.  The 8 speed hub is bigger to accomodate the extra cog.  The 9
  speed spacing got tighter but still used the same hub as an 8 speed.

  That is what I was fuzzily thinking but not articulating.

  I've not tried this, but perhaps you can drop off a cog from a 10 sp
  cassette and install the remaining 9 on a 7 (if you follow me). The only
  hindrance would be some sort of theoretical difference in the spoke end of
  the freehub body that prevents the spider from fitting over the spoke end
  flange (which is how they cram 10 into the space of 8 without reducing
  spacing any further than it was for 9...)

 Obviously you wouldn't want to set up a new bike that employed such  
 tricks, and if you had a steel or titanium frame that was spaced to  
 126 you could get it spread to 130.  So we're talking about an old  
 aluminum or carbon fiber frame.
 Given that, why not just run them with 7 speeds, as they were  
 originally built?- Dölj citerad text -

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[RBW] Re: How durable are zip ties for fenders?


Same thing nearly happend to me while out training.
If there's any room for P-clamps, hose-clamps, bolts 'n nuts with big
washers to spread the load then do use'm. Strips of metal from
buildingsurply stores can be bent if you cant find the right clamps.
If your riding in snow or uneven ground it might save the day.

On 16 Dec, 18:17, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
 A few years ago, taking a short-cut, I temporarily zip-tied a Berthoud
 fender to the fork crown of my Atlantis. Temporary became permanent,
 and I soon forgot to attach the fender with the proper hardware.
 Months later I was grinding up the steepest hill in these parts on a
 cold January day, when the zip-tie(s) finally gave out. The front
 fender rolled into the fork and stopped the wheel dead. I lurched
 forward and smashed my groin area on the corner of the stem. It hurt.

 If you're going to do this, I'd recommend a regular check of zip-tie
 integrity.

 On Dec 16, 10:52 am, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:



  I'm cross posting in case some on the RBW list don't subscribe to iBob, and
  because, of course, zip ties are an Official Rivendell Topic.

  I've mounted P Bike fat fenders on my 29er, which doesn't have any fender
  braze ons. Moreover, the seat- and chainstay bridges are flat plates, not
  tubes. So I've attached the front struts to the fork legs with two zip ties
  per strut; at the rear, double zips at both bridges and a single one at the
  end of the Velo Orange bag support to hold the end of the truncated rear
  fender instead of struts.

  Given (1) that plastic gets brittle in the cold, and it's cold here; and (2)
  that the bridges are plates and thus relatively thin of edge: how durable
  might this attachment setup be? (I have packed extra zip ties in the
  Nelson.)

  I should just get some fat P clamps for the fork legs, but what other
  methods of attachment might I use for the bridge-plates? The rear fender has
  no metal brackets, just holes for the zip ties.

  Wire?- Dölj citerad text -

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[RBW] Re: Nitto large racks (R20/33)?


Thanks! I to have my bikes inside and when traveling there are often
moments when the bike has to be carried on to other means of
transport.
I'll leave the tab as is but if it's there for the sole purpose of
attaching straps, I think the design could be improved on!

On 15 Dec, 21:46, Doug Peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
 Have not used Ortlieb but the Nitto big rear rack handles most panniers.
 The little post as well as the small loop at the bottom are just convenient
 mounts.  I've lashed all sorts of junk onto my Nitto  having multiple
 places  ways to strap stuff is handy.

 Agree that the rear tab leaves a tail light pretty vulnerable.  I've broken
 a couple  don't use it any more.  The platform is long, which is handy, but
 you have to be careful which is sometimes hard to do when you're wrestling
 the bike up stairs, etc.

 dougP  



 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of fenderbender
 Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 11:07 AM
 To: RBW Owners Bunch
 Subject: [RBW] Nitto large racks (R20/33)?

 Just sent in a order for these. Used Tubus for many years so I'd like
 to ask how they work with the hangers on my Ortlieb Roller front and
 rear bags?

 The tail light mount leave the lamp a bit exposed. Plan to mount a
 lamp with a built in reflector underneath between the rear stayes
 using P-clamps and some strip of stainless. Any thoughts on this?

 Could someone please explain once and for all what those 
 [url=http://www.cyclofiend.com/rbw/quickbeam/]little welded posts at the 
 bottom[/
 url] are for?
 [img]http://www.cyclofiend.com/Images/rbw/qb_racktang.jpg[/img]- Dölj citerad 
 text -

 - Visa citerad text -
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[RBW] Re: for sale again and again.....