Major groan!!
Rich
On 2013-08-13, at 23:24, Russ & Melody wrote:
Hi Sam,
Why not get rid of the motor and drive gear and buy a coil of rope.
Then you can have less drag, less motoring and more knots :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1
___
Hi Guys,
The burn rate of 2.4 ltr/hr is putting about 12
horsepower into the water. So a 40 HP engine is a
little overkill for those conditions... unless
you have a wackin' big alternator.
I'm about 2 ltr/hr with an old Yanmar QM20 doing
about 5.5 knots with a Kiwi-prop.
Seems like a J-pr
Hi Sam,
Why not get rid of the motor and drive gear and buy a coil of rope.
Then you can have less drag, less motoring and more knots :)
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35-1
At 01:50 PM 12/08/2013, you wrote:
Racing and sailing. Not so much motoring.
I need less drag and more knots :-)
s
Great story, JP. I may have missed this as I'm on a road trip, but can you post
the coordinates of your final destination. Is it a yacht club or..?
Welcome to our little slice of madness. But we do have fun:)
Rich Knowles
INDIGO. LF38
Halifax. NS
From: "J.P."
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tu
Love the MaxProp for reliable power in both forward and reverse.
A Martec Eliptic came with my boat and is reputed to have less drag but it
would close when coasting along in neutral and a burst was needed to open it up
for braking or thrusting forward. It also lost power when pushing thru chop.
Alex. They were solid on my boat and I found some hex head replacements by
chance at a ship supplier here. I turned them into flathead bolts on a lathe by
undercutting the heads. If I had to do it over, I'd just use stainless bolts.
They'll outlast me and the boat.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Ha
Thanks to everyone with info on my bilge pump siphon problem. I'll service
the pump and install a vented loop. That should solve the problem.
Steve
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com
I had a 29-2 which had the same set up and we added a block on the mast head;
the A-spinn halyard was external, but it worked beautifully; you might look to
see if there room for such a block; AND having said that, on my current boat, a
33-II, we do just what you propose, we use an internal jib
Sebastian, the 35-3 (at least my one) has four forward halyards; two jib /
genoa halyards below the forestay and two spinnaker halyards above. If you
aren't gybing your asym too much I would not be too worried about using your
spare jib halyard, but it will chafe more, and you need to ensure th
Alex. They were solid on my boat and I found some hex head replacements by
chance at a ship supplier here. I turned them into flathead bolts on a lathe by
undercutting the heads. If I had to do it over, I'd just use stainless bolts.
They'll outlast me and the boat.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Ha
Great story, JP. I may have missed this as I'm on a road trip, but can you post
the coordinates of your final destination. Is it a yacht club or..?
Welcome to our little slice of madness. But we do have fun:)
Rich Knowles
INDIGO. LF38
Halifax. NS
From: "J.P."
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tu
That is fresh off the press from Edson, flat side down.
Now another question for Edson users, Does anyone have stock on those hollow
bolts that go through the cockpit sole? EDSON no longer carries them.
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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Had to google where Clarkston, Wa could be. Amazing to learn it is on Snake
River, the end of the Columbia River near Idaho!
Great story. Well written. Look forward to many more. Welcome aboard.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "J.P."
To: c
Gary,
My Martec does fine in reverse, I just have to run the rpms up to about
3,000 for it to respond. Once I get some sternway, everything is fine. It
certainly doesn't back down like a solid prop, but I love the low drag
properties.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III
Midnight Mistress
Hampton
My mast has two sheaves, both slightly below the forestay. The boat came with
two halyards forward of the mast, both in good condition. I use one for the
genoa (on a furler) and plan to use the second one for the asym. I believe I
have no choice but use the asym as a genoa and gybe between fo
I have now a Campbell Sailer prop RH 13 x 8 x 7/8, with a 2QM15 Yanmar engine.
The boat cruise 6+ kn at 2400 Rpm and I can still push the throttle to reach
the max 3000 RPM. Very happy too.
Andre
Triumph II
1980 C&C 30 MKI
-Message d'origine-
De : CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc
What a pleasure it is to read a story like that. Thank you for sharing. Thank
you for resurrecting anther C&C. The 34s are great boats. Enjoy.
Brent D
C&C 27-V
s/v Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-08-13, at 11:26 AM, "J.P." wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have never been a C&C
Great story. Welcome to the C&C world.
My last C&C in Seattle was a 34. Bought her new in, I think, 1979, light
grey hull w a Yanmar. We had a large fleet of 34's there. Sold her in the
mid 80's. Never got a plaque for winning races since we only participated
in the Lake Union Wednesday
I noticed there is a C&C racing in the Rolex Fastnet Race this year.
The C&C 115 "Change of Course" (GBR9070R, Div. C) is well back in the pack with
a long way to go to the Fastnet light rounding but it is cool to see a C&C
participating.
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
[cid:D1BF9853-22F7-4
My 30-1 with a 2QM15 came with a 13.5 x 9 fixed prop. The Martec props are
not noted for good thrust in reverse.
Gary
- Original Message -
From: "Curtis"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:29 PM
Subject: Stus-List WHAT size of props should I put on my C&C 30MK 1
I have just put a
Hi,
It took a bit of calculating and paying attention to the charts and such,
but it's a good trip and plenty of sailing along the way. The bridges are
what cause you to come up with dirty shorts.
JP
From: Bill Coleman [mailto:colt...@verizon.net]
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 11:35 AM
I have recently switched to a Campbell Sailer Prop CS3RH13x7x7/8. It's a fixed
three blade, Right Hand rotation, 13" diameter x 7" pitch for 7/8" SAE Std.
taper shaft. I'm very happy with it. Very reasonable price, less prop walk and
much less vibration compare to the old two blade MW... I have
What RPM can you reach now?
Do you know the gear ratios on the old and new engines?
Joe Della Barba
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 3:30 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List WHAT size o
I have just put a 2gm20F 18 hp
taking out a 2GM 13hp.
I have a Prop15Dx9P2 mertec folding prop. It has little to no reverst
and very little thrust foward? What is a good choice for a 2 ot 3
fixed blade prop for a 1981 C&C 30 MK1 with a 2gm20F and a kanzai
KM2P.
Thanks for your help
--
“The pessimi
Good plan! I have developed a slow leak at the fuel lift pump, and the
yard was thinking of pulling the engine - a hatch would be much easier...
Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT
On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 11:22 AM, Alan Bergen wrote:
> I cut an access panel in the quarter-berth that makes it easi
Holy Crap!
I would never have thought you could go that far up the creek with 6 foot
draft - but the spar on deck, I assume.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 animated_favicon1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cn
I agree with Bill about the halyard and blocks.
70 feet of 5/16 is plenty. You can use Sta-Set and spend the rest on a new
halyard.
I flew my asym wing and wing last week in light air. Boat speed went from
2.3 knots to 3.3 knots after I gybed the main!
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 a
I have never heard of anyone using genoa halyards for an A sail, but maybe
you could if you tacked it like a genoa. We always jibe ours out and around
the headstay, inverting it. Usually they are on a pennant, a few feet off
the tack. If you have an anchor roller that is substantial, it is best t
Hello,
I have an asym spi left from the PO that I would like to setup. I've read
through the DIY document on the photo album site and from this I assume that I
will need to use it from an genoa halyard (both sheaves exit just slightly
under the forestay). I've got a few questions left: The
Check/calibrate your tachometer with an optical tachometer, They aren't
terribly expensive and are very easy to use. Try eBay or Amazon.com.
Also, you might be able to rent one locally.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>
> From: Tony Wroblewski
JP,
Congrats on your new boat and thanks for the write up of your trip to Clarkston.
Was your C&C known as Gabriela when it was racing around the PNW in the 80's?
Martin
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13,
Don't know but will sure try. thanks everyone for the comments
Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 09:25:59 -0400
From: joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 41 re-engine
Tony,
Does it rev to 3600 in neutral? If not, could be a bad tach.
On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM
Oh, and there are a couple of sailig clubs here - one for trimarans and
another for J25s
JP
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della
Barba, Joe
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List A joy
Great story!
I
I had a 2 blade Martec folder on my 38, with a Universal M35B (36hp) and
HBW100 transmission (1.76 reduction). The recommended prop from Martec based
on this engine/transmission and a 15,000 pound boat was a 16x10 ½. I had
found a 17x10 for cheap and had it reconditioned for use on the boat, and
ex
Hi,
That's one of the things about the Snake River that most people don't
realize is that the sailing is good here. The Snake river was modified in
the '60's and 70's to be one long flood control project. So it's at least
40' deep in most places, and up to 120'. The river is also wide, and the
wh
JP,
What a great first experience! Welcome aboard!
You'll find that the people on this list have the answers to almost any
question, no matter how simple or complex. Hope you continue to enjoy your
boat
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 12:26 PM, J.P. wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> *
Great story!
I just have to ask - now the boat is way up a river, is there sailing to be had
where she is?
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J.P.
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List A joy
H
Hi All,
I have never been a C&C owner until this past week.
I recently purchased C&C 34 (1978) s/v Gabriela from a fate worse than
death. She had been consigned to a boat charity and was in a backwater boat
slip in Seattle.. and was in some need of repair. I purchased the boat last
week,
3 blade H5 Autoprop powered by Universal M4-30. Self pitching auto forward
and reverse and self fairing. In reverse gear while under sail.
Great prop / engine combo: forward and reverse equal power and drives the
boat over six into a sea and 25 kt headwind.
On Tuesday, August 13, 2013, Alex Giann
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anwy2MPT5RE
This is actually sailing-related; there's a Viking ship partway through… :^)
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On Aug 12, 2013, at 6:40 PM, Colin Kilgour wrote:
> Imagine the headache this must cause the
I cut an access panel in the quarter-berth that makes it easier to see the
shaft. It also gives me visibility to replace the oil dipstick.
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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This List is provided by the C&C Photo Albu
Check valves can and do stick shut sometimes.
Happened on a boat I was on once.
The owner was all set to install the backup pump, but poking the check valve
solved the problem.
No idea what made it stick that one time.
Some somewhat adhesive "piece of crap" most likely I suppose.
In any case I wou
A former owner repowered our 1990 C&C 37 XL (39' 6" LOA), installing
a Yanmar Model: 3JH2-TBE (47 hp,. turbo) back in 2001. It turns a “J”
Prop feathering 18” - 3 blade propellor.
It does not seem at all like overkill to me. We burn about 2.4 litres an
hour ( 0.7 US Gal.) at 6.5 knots under pow
Our 37 XL has a check valve and a vented loop (belt and suspender approach)
in the electric bilge pump discharge hose, like this:
http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-vented-loop-thru-hull.shtml
This loop is in the lazarette, above the thruhull in the stern.
Our manual pump does n
WHAT size of props do the listers have who sail the 35MkII? AND what sort of
engines are they matched to and what is the shaft diameter and the unsupported
length aft of the strut??
I am starting to install the electric and have had numerous discussions with
the supplier concerning proper pitc
I had a bilge pump teed into the sink drain. The T was actually below water
level and it loopep up just above water level. Well...after a new engine
install and some new wires and hoses, it got pushed to just BELOW water level.
We woke up in Rock Hall about knee deep in water! After pumpin
I think he means 2800 under power, but that is not clear.
My opinion, worth what it cost, that boat is grossly underpowered. I am now
at 37.5 hp, after replacing a 40 hp Perkins 107.
I think a C&C 41 should be 40 - 45 hp minimum.
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 animated_favicon1
From: CnC-List [mail
It is quite hard on diesels to limit their RPM with a high pitch prop. If the
tach is accurate, you might want to try a few inches less pitch.
Joe Della Barba
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-l
Tony,
Does it rev to 3600 in neutral? If not, could be a bad tach.
On Tue, Aug 13, 2013 at 8:09 AM, Tony Wroblewski wrote:
> I also have a C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to
> repower. Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP. My
> problem however is it d
Jake,
I have too many PFDs and fenders in my sail locker to get past. Hence
the engine panel access.
The key is to have *something* on the shaft that sticks down from the
transmission. Normally the back of the tranny blocks all view of the
shaft. But zinc sticks out, and is a good surface to ma
I also have a C&C 41- 1986 with the 3HMF Yanmar but do not need to repower.
Why go to the 3JH5? Mine seems satisfactory with the 27HP. My problem however
is it doesn't want to develop more than 2800 RPM. Have a Martec 17x10 folding
prop. Any suggestions. I have owned the boat since new
Steven,
Had a similar problem with my Irwin 31 - there the bilge pump discharge was
tee'd into the sink drain. All is good unless you had a stopper in the sink
then there is no break in the line and a back siphon could set up. Then the
pump (hopefully) kicks in and pumps it out and then it back si
OK it looks like I'm good to go (knock on wood)
On my '79 C&C 27 MkIII the Atomic 4 is rebuilt and converted to fresh water
cooling the heat exchanger that failed and raw water pump that
self-destructed on the maiden voyage from the mech's dock to my slip have
been replaced (& a hig
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