Danny,
Check the rudder tube carefully. I am pretty sure that I can see plastic
inserts at the top and bottom of the rudder tube in your photos. On my
Viking 28 these plastic inserts were worn and the rudder was sloppy. The
inserts should pull out of the rudder tube...they are friction fit only. Y
Hi Danny,
I have the model cousin to your "33". They can easily be mistaken as
sisters from a short distance away.
Your rudder top looks better than mine did which had quite a bit of
water in it. For repairs I used a burr & pencil grinder (similar to
the handy Dremel tool) and hogged out a b
Hi Ron,
I agree, the hardware will be quite expensive, but there is, at least,
double the amount of sail material also. Separate email in process.
Gary
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 8:57 AM, Ron Casciato wrote:
> Gary: I think the problem with his project is that he mentioned going
> for sp
Glad to be of service.
Ken H.
On 11 November 2013 14:05, Petar Horvatic wrote:
> So rare earth magnet taken from an old hard-drive worked very well. I
> actually took few of them and let them stick to each other. That
> intensified the magnetic field. I placed them on the inside in the bi
I agree with Rich. The fact it is light is great! It's not full of water.
Joel
On Monday, November 11, 2013, Rich Knowles wrote:
> Danny, your rudder looks quite normal to me. Seems to me that you have two
> choices: tear it apart to see if there is damage inside or assume it's ok
> and stop wo
Danny, your rudder looks quite normal to me. Seems to me that you have two
choices: tear it apart to see if there is damage inside or assume it's ok and
stop worrying. You might find someone who could X-ray it for you. Personally,
I'd lube the bejesus out of the shaft, clean the interior of the
Those bearing discs are probably Delrin, aka Acetal. I think Dennis C.
and/or Joe D.B. scored some made from PEEK or some such...you can make them
yourself from sheet stock or have a machine shop mill them out.
On 11 November 2013 13:54, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
> Oops, I forgot the link to th
Oops, I forgot the link to the folder...
http://sdrv.ms/1bpnvZh
Danny
-- Original Message --
From: "djhaug...@juno.com"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder bearing
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 21:53:25 GMT
Okay,
I removed the rudder today. It does not weigh muc
Okay,
I removed the rudder today. It does not weigh much at all,
There are no bearings. It is just a fiberglass tube that fits tightly around
the 1-7/8" shaft. There were just 2 - 4"x1/4" nylon(?) washers between the pin
that holds the rudder in place and the aluminum flange fitting in the c
70deg saturday, 65 sunday and my engine won't start ...again!
Thought we had it cured.
Bummer!!!
Looks like more wiring to replace. When it clicks, the engine is turned nicely.
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL
On Sunday, November 10, 2013 3:13 PM, Joel Aronson
wrote:
Went out today. 20 knots plus.
Br
Makes more sense then my contraption! I less hole to drill and no threads
needed!
Joel
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 2:01 PM, Bill Connon wrote:
> Eric Frank wrote:
>
>> Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on
>> the universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out wit
Ty alternate applications of hear and cold, using a prop puller.
From: Bill Connon
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2013 2:01:04 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI
shaft seal
Eric Frank wrote:
> Thanks to the list's advice las
Eric Frank wrote:
Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the
universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench. Worked
beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off the prop
shaft. Removed the bolts that grip the coup
So rare earth magnet taken from an old hard-drive worked very well. I
actually took few of them and let them stick to each other. That intensified
the magnetic field. I placed them on the inside in the bildge and used a
compass to find the location on the outside. Compass pointed the left/
What Fred said is worth reading a second time.
Plus, don't forget that it's only going to be cold until you cross the
stream - about 2 days (or less) in that boat. Then you'll want sunscreen,
hats, coolmax shirts and shorts.
Safe travels...
Cheers,
Colin
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:15 AM, Fred
Hi Fred,
It's too bad you sailed with inferior wool
products. The good stuff does not stink. The
"new" (and expensive) miracle fibre in the athletic world is Merino.
Polarfleece is a brand name for fabric made of
polyethylene terephthalate. It is hydrophobic, so
it wicks moisture (away from
Eric,
Along with the other suggestions already sent in, contact PYI and ask what
techniques they recommend. As the company that manufactures and sell the Shaft
Seal they have seen this problem many times.
If you are already replacing the bellows there is little concern for damaging
it. This
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2013 10:44:55 -0500
From: joel.aron...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI
shaft seal
Eric,
IF PB Blaster doesn't work, you might try heat on the coupler. Get two pipe
wrenches - shaft and coupler
The usual method is to use longer bolts in the coupler with a good solid
socket in the middle. As you tighten the coupler on the shaft up to the
other half the socket pushes the shaft out. If that doesn't work, it's
usually cut-off wheel time.
A better penetrating oil than PB Blaster is a 50/50 mix
Eric,
IF PB Blaster doesn't work, you might try heat on the coupler. Get two
pipe wrenches - shaft and coupler. Heat and twist.
If that fails, use a gear puller or make one with a small piece of 1/4 inch
thick metal, drill holes to match the coupler and a threaded center hole
for a decent size b
Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the
universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench. Worked
beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off the prop
shaft. Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft an
Stugeron for seasickness, and lots of warm fleece for before you cross the Gulf
Stream (get a good Polarfleece hat, maybe a neck gaiter and a really good pair
of waterproof gloves); and absolutely NO clothing made of cotton! Everything’s
going to get wet with salt spray at some point, and cotto
Gary: I think the problem with his project is that he mentioned going for
speed.and I'm not sure he's moved far enough in the project to do much
other than a straight line
I may Google him to see if he's still at it. I thought that video ws a
couple of years old.
It won't be th
Hi Ron,
I did consider that hull shape (or rudder) might provide the lift
required to counteract leeway, but was surprised the speaker didn't talk
about it. Good promoters don't leave questions unanswered.
The Formula wing sail is very cool! Can't wait to see what my
sailmaker will char
24 matches
Mail list logo
