Yes, I still have one as a backup.
That hinge stock number is actually 0951DP1CHR.
Perko also makes the same hinge in zinc, which is what C&C used in the
first place, at least on my boat. Part number for that is 0808DP0CHR.
The zinc ones are way cheaper than the bronze ones, but will definitely
Is the mast down? you could try rigging only and mail your stuff there
and they will duplicate it or if you know your exact dimensions and
specs they could make it and ship it. rigging only is in Fairhaven, MA
and pretty reasonable
On 5/15/2017 4:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:
H
Have you checked with Tidewater in Havre de Grace? They've been around a
while and have a decent reputation. Saves a long trip down the bay to Nap town.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 15, 2017, at 1:40 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List
> wro
I took my Navtec backstay adjuster to The Rigging Company and was pretty
satisfied with their service.
https://theriggingco.com/
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:24 PM Jim via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hi group:
>
> I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I
> reached out to Walden
Thanks for this. I contacted Perko and they were able to give me the exact
dimensions / hole placements etc and gave me a part number (0851DP1CHR). Found
it a local, well stocked marine store shout out to Rex Marine in Norwalk CT! -
NOT West! and confirmed by comparing old to New that is the sa
Hi group:
I need rigging repairs to my 29 located on the northern Chesapeake. I reached
out to Walden rigging, the only riggers I know of, around here, who have a
great rep. Sadly they are so busy, it may be late July before I will be able to
get my repairs done and use my boat.
There are a bu
Thank you Ron, i see that i can use the propane system circuit. This is
convenient.
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 1987 C&C 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc.
De : Ron Ricci
Envoyé : 15 mai 2017 11:09
À : cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc : 'Bruno Lachance'
Objet : RE: Stus-List H
Tom,
Dyneema is very slippery, so a splice is best. Uncovered Dyneema is so
easy to splice even I can do it. You taper one fid lenght, bury a total of
3 and lock stitch it.
Joel
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Thank you all for you
Tom,
Not sure but that may be a wire/rope sheave. Look at this pic of a couple
of wire/rope sheaves:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsTzNCZWtUQ2JQeVE
The wire sheave on my 35-1 is about half as wide as your sheave appears to
be.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, M
Bruno,
My boat came with an installed propane sensor which did not work and a
solenoid. The circuit is fed from its own breaker. I ended up replacing
the sensor with a Fireboy Xintex. See:
http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/S-1A-Manual.pdf for
wiring instructions. The
I replaced all of my wire-rope halyards with all rope. I also replaced
some of my sheaves (http://www.zephyrwerks.com/), since the edges were so
sharp that I felt they would fray the rope halyards. I just used ordinary
double braid - not high tech line. Unless you're a racer who is losing
races b
Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my
wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema
core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire
section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question.
Several of you
Hi,
I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do it
properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i can
wire it to the solenoid switch ?
Is there a safety code that appplies ?
i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 8:36 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Same issue. Had to run the wire up from inside the anchor locker through
> the pulpit and grab the end. It would not feed through the deck when I
> tried it the other way.
I've removed/replaced several
Same issue. Had to run the wire up from inside the anchor locker through
the pulpit and grab the end. It would not feed through the deck when I
tried it the other way.
Joel
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:06 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Had the exact same issue wi
I replaced my C&C 24 rudder from one from ruddercraft.com.
Huge improvement.
POC - rich...@ruddercraft.com
Doug
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
Standard alternator has in internal regulator. I'd disconnect from shore
power and then run a load on the batteries - frig, 12 volt motor etc.
Check voltage. Start engine, look for a jump in voltage.
Or I'd just pull the alternator and take it to be tested. Non OEM
alternators are cheap.
Joel
While out for a lovely day sailing Saturday we noted that the electric head was
not draining properly. When I checked it seems like the motor was straining
and may need replacement. Afterward when motoring back to our club we noted
some issues with wind instrument and then chart plotter. Chec
If you remove the back stop you risk jamming your fingers between the top teak
trim and the hood. You also risk breaking the plexi cover if someone shoves it
back a little too aggressively. As “indigo” also said, the back stop may play
a role in diverting water into the limber holes and away fr
I did. Sea Dog makes 2 sizes that are off by about an 1/8 of an inch. It
was the smaller ones. I think one was 2 1/8 overall and one was 2 1/4, but
that was a few years back.
(so that is what that compartment is for!)
Joel
Former 35/3
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 8:57 AM, Indigo via CnC-List
wrote
Had the exact same issue with crumbling insulation on nav lights on my 85’
33ii.. Strongly recommend replacing it with new 2 conductor wire. Can be a
real hassle getting the wire run through the pulpit to below decks.
Mike Amirault
C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC__
http://www.perko.com/catalog/category_products/cabinet_hardware-hinges/
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 7:57 AM, Indigo via CnC-List
wrote:
> Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to
> the plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of
> the main h
Has anyone with a 35mkIII replaced the three hinges that are attached to the
plexiglass cover for the winch handle (?) tray that is just forward of the main
hatch. I have the hinges off the boat, and though they are stamped Perko Zinc
there is no serial / model number. What I thought were equiva
I don't know how similar the 37/40+ is to the 35mk3 but I am in process of
addressing similar leaks.
Taking off the hood was fairly straightforward - but did involve removing the
traveller track.
I also found that the aft end "stop" was loose - at one time - probably not
original bedded with
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