And the Construction Drawings for the 37/40 Series, showing the layup
schedule for 1990, and layup details, etc are online here:
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html
Ken H.
On 29 May 2018 at 16:39, Francois Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
> Hi Thomas,
>
> Below is what I know about the la
That is awesome, I would sure like to have that information for my 37.; I
have all of the spec sheets and drawings information from the Great Lakes
museum for the 37, does anyone know of any other source? (the build file for my
boat is no longer available).
Richard
1s/v Bushmark
I am pretty sure my boat has the Edson #870 pedestalSS throttle on
the starboard side, SS gear shifter on the port side. I have been
searching the Edson Marine website to learn about the 'throttle
tensioning screw/bolt' but have had no success accessing any information
on it..speci
Howdy Rob,
Early versions of the 870 engine control didn't have the throttle tensioning
screw located on the starboard aluminum "boss" on the control casting. The
common option to reduce the effect of the throttle return spring was to install
a cable clamp around the throttle cable with just en
Chuck
Thank you for your prompt and informative response..and the
websitethe tech bulletin(s) I was trying to access were not available.
From one of the diagrams on the website you provided, it appears the
'tension control adjuster' could possibly be under the compass. Going to
the b
Never had trouble with this before, but this year I could not get the raw
water going out the exhaust when I was getting ready for launching. Always use
a bucket of fresh water on the intake to the raw water pump (new impeller every
year) just to make sure things are working. Engine started f
Some of the impeller the pin doesn't go through the rubber fins and it slips on
the hub. You may wish to swap as a test.
This has baffled many people because the impeller looks perfectly fine.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
We had an issue too this year, first launch, as did another local boat.
Were told very common that the exhaust elbow will close up due to mineral
buildup. Apparently 3-5 year life. We took it off and cleared some crap
out with a screwdriver, put it back on and flow was back. We plan to
replac
So my forward cabin bulkheads are not looking great. Used vinegar and water
to clean and tried a recommended restorative product and it turned the worst
part black. WTF.
I assume I can sand it but I also think it is a thin veneer. Any experience?
Thanks in advance.
David F. Risch, J. D
David,
you can use some bleach to try and lighten them. if its spots, you just
kind of wet it on the spot let it sit and then rinse thoroughly with a
spray bottle and rags.
I used watco danish finish on my boat down below. I used a palm sander,
went over it once with 320 grit then again wi
Eric,
You didn't say what engine.
I've had a couple issues that might be helpful.
On launch a couple years ago, there was no raw water flow. Fortunately my
slip was mere feet away and I got the boat docked. On investigation, I
traced the problem to pluggage in the raw water inlet upstream of t
I've had the tips of the impeller vanes wear off and combined with the set
which the vanes had taken the pump was unable to generate enough force to
both suck and blow unless I reved the engine. This condition didn't cause
any perceivable problems until I was attempting to winterize and the level
"Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear
autopilot drive application? We are trying to install a B&G RAM1 Linear drive
unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an independent
Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection. We also interest
Eric;
You didn't say what engine you are working with.
If it is a Yanmar, the sudden onset of no water flow suggest that the
exhaust elbow is plugged with carbon. Particularly if you've not taken
action to remove the carbon buildup in the last 100-200 engine hours.
If you still have an
Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is
absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm. You either have to live with an
undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the
Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or yo
Fred
Thank you very much. I am willing to try anything as long as it can be a safe
installation and that it can talk to my Nima 2000.
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 30, 2018, at 7:56 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from
We had the same problem a couple years ago, it was the elbow.
Many "Experts" told me not to waste time with the elbow on a freshwater
boat. Wrong.
Duly following the "expert" advice I fixed / replaced everything else and
reamed all the tubes in the heat exchanger using wood dowels. It was not an
Thanks for all the helpful input. As some suggested, the problem is almost
certainly a clogged exhaust elbow. Several years ago (7 or 8?) the same thing
happened but as we were motoring slowly up to our mooring. The yard fixed it by
replacing the exhaust elbow. So it is clearly time to do that
I once replaced the impeller on my yanmar 3gm30 and when I put the plate back
on the pump it was not seated properly and the pump kept losing its prime. With
enough rpm s it would start pumping again only to lose its prime again on start
up. Might be worth checking. The plate must be air/water t
OK, so a lesson learned. Don't assume a temporary fix is good forever. A
few years back when I picked up the boat, the portside lever for the F/R
shifting was missing. I figured I'd eventually find it in the boat but
never did. In the meantime, I cut the head off a bolt, slid it in the
shifter
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