Bill, this particular fitting/time period is unique, and not standard in North
America, why it happened, and what it is remains a mystery.
Paul – yes I recall reading that too, and had figured that the hose and fitting
expert would identify the thread as … “male Kiwi firehose size A” or somethin
This is what I encountered in my own research - a lot of differing views, and
these are compounded by the boat’s limitations.
- “stay on deck vs merely attached to the boat”hence the taut jacklines, on
the centerline, stopping a tether length short of either end of the boat. This
really
Hopefully informative!
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
Dave 33-2 windstar.
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Paul – great blog, lotsa detail. You have piqued my curiosity with your
active holding tank vent project. I have a rather ‘piquant’ poly holding tank
in my 33-2. I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses and still I get
a stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened.
FWIW, I would work out the best way to securely mount it on the transom. This
keeps it usable when hove to, out of the way most of the time, and accessible
when needed.
I recently amused myself while sailing singlehanded by losing my spinnaker (in
turtle) over the side, and not noticing for
Hi all,Any idea what this hose is? Similar to yer basic heater hose, but
with an extra jacket. Thanks!
Dave
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/08/what-is-this-hose.html
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FYI-
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-toronto/sails-for-sale/1175844641?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
I have no affiliation with seller, (Ron) I contacted him to discuss the
spinnaker, which had been sold, but the main and genny are still available.
Dave
__
One of the sails that came with my boat ('85 33-ii) was in a bag stencilled
"C&C 34 genoa staysail."Had left that one in the bag until last week
when my curiosity got the better of me and I attempted to set it and found
its luff to be too long. Made by North sails, It has a luff tape for
rolle
Mine secured by hex bolts with acorn nuts (8 - IIRC). I would not want to
have to fuss with that in an emergency though. Tim, it seems really odd to
me that that your port side locker does not operate. Both lockers on mine
are quite accessible and the parts a molded in such a way as to suggest
Second that. Also, the "wet bowl" position on the flush valve should be
called "wet boat" (if forgotten).
Dave
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:06:19 -0400
From: David Paine
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; ch
Thanks but too late! - I ditched the switch entirely, replaced with a
Blueseas panel with flush breakers and more.
Dave
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2016 17:01:47 -0300
From:
To:
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 Electrical upgrades,
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi D
Decades back, our Venture 22 had a centreboard cable that sounded like a
bowed cello. 3 different pitches dependent on speed. Like having
Yo-yo Ma along.
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christian
Tirtirau via CnC-List
Sent: Monda
says, West of
Ballard.?
On Jul 24, 2016, at 7:43 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List
wrote:
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
Plenty of upgrades, dedicated start battery, new panel, ACR, battery
monitor, revised grounding etc.
Just the engine key relocation to consider and the LED lig
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
Plenty of upgrades, dedicated start battery, new panel, ACR, battery
monitor, revised grounding etc.
Just the engine key relocation to consider and the LED lighting upgrades to
finish plus installation of Calframo fans and .. well the fridge and
Drainage - More like what I'd describe as dampness along the cracks, and
after I ground off a previous skim-repair, after sitting all winter. Not
enough water to leak out of the holes. I had much bigger issues I was
addressing at the time, you may have seen my blog on my keel stub repair.
there i
Gene, Jake,
Unfortunately this is not so unusual, at least here near Toronto where
things freeze solid in winter.
I first noticed this in the fall where I saw one 33-2 in the repair yard
adjacent to our marina that had it so bad that the keel had cracked around
the bolt head and a palm-sized chun
There is a great explanation of all this here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
And, to complete your commentary below, a lucid explanation of the role of
the key switch circuit in our engines.
>>>snip
Field Current Supply
The field current supply is provided from one of t
Interesting discussion. So, I have run my 1985 2gm Yanmar briefly with
the key removed and no apparent harm was done. The manual does say never
to run it with the battery disconnected.
Now, when I check the schematic, (and my engine) there is a 30A tubular
fuse in series with the key switch.
Hi All,
Seems the boat is never "done".I read a recent thread here on older
iceboxes and the benefit of improved insulation, and wonder about my '85.
As other work gets done, the ice box has moved up the project list a bit.
I replaced the gasket and the manual drain pump, and will need to tigh
Hi All,
up to my ears in tech, and have just finished installing a Seatalk NG
(NMEA2000 aka N2K) backbone, garmin GPS, Raymarine instruments (i70 and
p70) and autopilot. No wind (yet) , no chartplotter.
I have an actisense USB gateway which is connected to the backbone and will
allow me to run O
I believe, because while sailing in fwd (dragging the prop along) there is
"negative thrust" on the clutch cone bearing surfaces, allowing the clutch
to slip. (when powering, the prop is instead pushing forward, loading
those surfaces)In neutral, the clutch cones are centred, freewheeling,
a
Hi All,
Have seen question pop up a few times. Does anyone know the "why"
involved in Yanmar's recommendation of neutral?
My thoughts, having had to disassemble and deglaze the cones on my Kanzaki
'box:
- If in neutral and the shaft is rotating you wear bearings, stuffing box,
shaft, but you do
Check your grounds. Had what I thought was a dead tach and it was a
corroded ground connection where the main harness from the engine control
panel grounded via a ring terminal on a stud to the engine.
This should be a maintenance item...
Dave
> -
Hi All,
Work vs life again, I find myself hoping to pick up some parts for Windstar
while in Halifax on business this week. Specifically, Raymarine SeatalkNG
cables.
Can anyone suggest the most likely stockist? Many thanks, Dave
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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see below for details on my recent repair of a harken furler extrusion -
badly worn at the top.
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
Dave Windstar, '85 33ii
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Hi all,
Anybody know the spec or a source for the orange-jacketed coolant hoses
used to feed engine coolant through the water tank's heat exchanger?
Looks like I could use generic SAE 20R3 D-2 automotive type 5/8 heater
hose, though it is much thinner overall than what is in the boat, and would
be
I used the auto supply stuff - “weapons-grade” is not so available up here in
Canada! 😉.
I brushed a thin film of the compound (basically grit in grease) onto the
mating surfaces, mated them, and rotated the cone back and forth.Did not do
complete rotations only because Mr. Robinson told
YES
This is caused by slippage inside the transmission - a bronze cone mates
against an iron anti-cone ...I guess, and the surfaces become glazed
and slip. bang bang bang like a broken prop.
These are the exact symptoms I experienced and only after spending a great
deal of money on mounts
Hi all. Am completing some repairs of Windstar's bottom and am at the
stage of fairing the glasswork. I need to remove the vc-tar from the
gelcoat to create about a 4" clean margin around the repair, so that the
tar does not contaminate the fairing epoxy. I have read all kinds of stuff
online
A beautiful part of the world, though I may be biased. As mentioned
previously, the fundy side is a tide and fog (and whale) festival -
beautiful country but navigation and currents can be tricky close inshore.
If you are sailing north you will probably be intending to make your first
landfall so
Have used several different epoxy systems over the years and have found
that prep can vary a bit. Cured epoxy leaves a film on its surface
referred to as "amine blush" that needs to be removed. It is water
soluble. I have found that some types wipe off with a wet rag, some must
be washed more ag
Gert Tiel - that's the Dutch name I could not remember! He worked
there. In the plant?
Nice guy who generously gave me great advice in a lengthy conversation over
the phone as I was evaluating a 35i .(Mystic) Very intimate knowledge of
the construction of the boat.Ultimately I took his ad
Rino,
Agreed with Steve, after reviewing MANY surveys over and crawling around
many boats, over 3 decades, I find most are very superficial indeed.To
be fair, most surveyors cannot realistically know the specific issues to
look for in each model.
That said, we are in C&C land and several of t
There was an interesting discussion on list recently that touched on
seasickness meds. A few European brands were mentioned and recommended. I
am very ignorant on this subject.I have been keeping only gravol on board,
ensuring a great sleep for anyone who feels a little ill. I will be
You might look at electrical/data “raceway” from companies like Panduit,
Hubbell, Wiremold. They each have a range of sizes, plastic, metal, etc.
Easy to work with, procure.
Dave
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday,
Answering my own post For the sake of future archive searchers.
the 33ii owners manual states the interior is oiled teak.
Windstar's saloon table top is varnished, probably was originally, and has been
disassembled and will be refinished. The base was originally oiled teak, and
has now been s
Along with icom 506 AIS purchase, I will replace and upgrade my in-mast wiring.
Currently the vhf antenna is wired with RG-58, and I would like to upgrade to
RG-213, which is, I believe, a bit larger in diameter.
The existing wiring is neatly packed in a plastic raceway that runs the length
of
Was at the Toronto boat show last night and indeed hmp had insulation on sale,
C$75 for 13 sq ft. Thanks for the tip. It may not have quite the mass of
the other material i was looking at. (Not good) It is thicker (may be good
or bad) and has a layer of foil n the outside. (Probably g
most surfaces and is
> easy to apply. I might try some on the boat soon too. It is also fairly
> inexpensive.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-
some good reasonably priced material.
I have left overs if you are near Hamilton.
Don Newman
905 547 1750
> On Jan 5, 2016, at 11:21 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation
> installati
Hi All,
Have searched the archives and found some great discussion on insulation
installation practices. Several folks replaced this material in 2014.
Funny remark on the existing material being "both lily and dusty at the
same time. Mine is making a mess.
Any particularly good materials to re
Was eyeing the same space and will order a Bomar access hatch to do just
that on the 33ii. No teak and holly, just a fiberglass liner that traps a
small storage/ventialtion/inspection opportunity. There's a much larger
wasted space under the v-berth on the 33ii that has a plan attached.
Dav
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
Simple little project.
Dave
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Charlie, check out here for an example of a past project using nidacore -
just to get you thinking of some possibilities for DIY composites. A past
project restoring a Lotus Europa. You could make a tabletop/bracketry in a
similar way.
http://www.syer.net/firewall.htm
Dave
Message: 10
Date: F
Working on my saloon table today got me wondering about what others may
have done to improve the utility of their boat's interior. The table in
the 33ii is pretty decent for what it is, with a solid teak trestle like
base incoprporating a storage compartment accerssible from the top, and
folding n
Happy new year all!
Working in the shop today, I was refastening the tenon to the foot of
Windstar's saloon table to its 'leg', and while inverted on the bench (the
saloon table, not me) I noticed the flaking varnish and the PO's sloppy
brushwork. And lo, another project was added to the list.
Nicely done!
Dave
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2015 20:46:38 -0500
From: Dreuge
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List replacing a wheel autopilot motor
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I just posted some information about replacing the DC motor in a wheel
autopil
I have the full keel version, in Whitby. As with the others, I would have
no reservations about this engine in this boat. The 33ii is a very easily
driven hull, it does not take much power at all. Going into a chop is not
something you will not want to do for hours - its a light boat, and flat
boat cleaned out, batteries removed, winter tarp secured!!!
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
Dave
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Frank - How about knocking the old sensor out and spending two minutes
enlarging the hole with a coarse half-round file? (could use a die grinder
if air nearby, or a bit from one on a cordless drill, or a drum sander ona
cordless drill, etc)
Am I missing something?
Dave
Message: 12
The angle grinder is a machete, the fein tool is a scalpel. That said,
it is amazing how "fine" you can be with an angle grinder. The angle
grinder can run big stiff twisted-brush scratch wheels and 30 grit abrasive
disks at high speed, it can remove steel fast, and with cut off wheels (zip
d
googled Mirka Sander - looks nice!
Found this recall notice- FYI.
http://www.healthycanadians.gc.ca/recall-alert-rappel-avis/hc-sc/2014/39651r-eng.php
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Day to day:
1) Credit card/corkscrew (cause/effect)
2) sturdy knife
3) Small vise grips
4) good multi bit screwdriver.
5)LED flashlight with magnet
6) iphone camera for photos. (awkward places, serial numbers,
zoom/magnification)
7) Cable ties, self fusing silicon and rigging tape
8) diamond
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
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Sorry - a little hasty and the dreaded double post.
If the entire bottom is rotten along a 2-3' length I would cut it out.
First though, make sure by prodding it hard with a screwdriver along its
length. Wash with bleach so you can see past the mildew..
I would be very surprised if the rot was no
Not an expert but I would mix a thickened batch of epoxy loaded with
cab-o-sil and chopped glass, trowel it in place then set a fitted
waxed-paper wrapped piece of stiff, flat, plastic on top, bored for the
bolt holes, fitted to bilge, and spin on the the keel bolt until you get
some squeeze out.
In my case, was not suggesting it is superior, I just prefer to purchase
the raw materials. This way, I can use unfilled as a first coat, make a
putty for the fill, and laminate at the end. Same epoxy, sometimes even
the same batch for multiple applications/jobs. YMMV.
Dave
On Tue, Nov 24, 201
I have a 33ii with standard deck fitting, AND an adaptor that fits
perfectly and gladdens the hearts of those who have to pump the tank.
Will photograph and measure and post.
Dave
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2015 12:12:26 +
From: Paul Fountain
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: St
winter project 32a: upgrade electronics ('85 c&c33ii)
Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing
with raymarine p70, i70. both are multifunction displays, and one - the
p70, is the control head for the autopilot. 2015 was my first sailing
season with an autopilo
Hi all, I may have double posted, if so, my apologies. See the slink
below for photos of my mast step/keel explorations. I would welcome any
commentary and recommendations. Thanks as always, Dave
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=113820107769936378062&target=ALBUM&id=62044846205
33mkii "windstar" mast step revisited - photos.
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/sredir?uname=113820107769936378062&target=ALBUM&id=6204484620508637473&authkey=Gv1sRgCJOCl9DE4eOBGA&invite=CIednp0J&feat=email
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To c
Hi All,
So I checked the various posts and photos available, and chatted with one
lister, but I have yet to see a really clear description of outright
failure of the mast step area, other than repeat references to the 33ii
collapsing mast step syndrome, and the assertion that the construction is
i
Joe DB, See below where I described this in response to another thread. I
contacted Mars Keel about this and they were aware of the issue on boats of
this age. (they made the keels for
C&C I believe) I spoke to the yard that repaired the worst one described
below, and he mentioned that he had f
Hi,
It is time to re-bed the keel (which weeps after haulout) and to consider
what to do about some frost fractures bulging the lead casting at the base
of one of the keelbolts.
Is it feasible to block the keel on the cradle then jack the boat a few
inches skyward to do this work? Has anyone done
Hi All,
I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking questions
that have been answered in the past. I see that archived messages can be
found at :
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/
However these do not appear to be searchable. Is there a way to search
p
Interesting indeed. Going through this now, here are my learnings:
NMEA2200 ("N2K") and seatalk are all CAN bus data backbones, developed by
bosch for automotive use and same as devicenet used in industry for years.
Seatalk NG data is exactly the same as N2K, but Raymarine uses a similar,
but pr
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