Re: Stus-List Gas/Water key

Liz — try one of these:

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

It depends on what sort of heat you’re looking for; if you are constantly in cool, wet conditions and would like to have dry heat throughout the boat, I’d suggest a diesel forced-air system like the Espar or Webasto. But these can be expensive to install and maintain. If you would just like

Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Congrats, Neil; and too bad about Corsair. You and that boat have been on this list as long as I can remember, and I’ve been on the list for a long time! — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 24, 2017, at 1:21 PM, schiller via CnC-List

Re: Stus-List ST 40/60 gremlin

Hi, David — sounds like your SeaTalk1 bus may have a bad positive or ground lead connection somewhere. I’d suggest you trace the SeaTalk1 lead to the breaker panel and check BOTH the hot and ground leads for corrosion or a bad connection. Also unplug and replug the SeaTalk connections at the

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

Josh — we use an “X” shaped towing bridle for our dinghy; two connections on the dink, and tied off to the stern cleats. It’s about twelve feet long or so, with stainless carabiners for the dingy end and large eyes at the boat end. There seems to be enough friction on the dinghy to keep the

Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

John — over the last winter I purchased new Mercury 280 Hypalon RIB for my boat (to replace the 20-year-old Seaworthy 9.2 wooden-floor dinghy, which was starting to slow-leak…), and I put it up on the foredeck to store out of the water between sailing weekends. There’s no way I could sail with

Re: Stus-List Landfall for sale

“Wow” is right — there go the property values in the neighborhood… :^( — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 15, 2017, at 8:40 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List > wrote: > > WOW! Don't know the boat, but could be a

Re: Stus-List Design question on the 38 vs the 38 landfall

Wasn’t that in Oakville, by Missisauga? — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 15, 2017, at 7:21 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List > wrote: > > Question for Hank: > > Where was the “custom shop”? I have a

Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 11:27 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List > wrote: > > And take the opportunity of replacing alternator to make sure you have the > battery banks fused properly… Hey, you mean I’m not the only one…? :^) Seems like I’ve taken crap for this in the

Stus-List Seventies singer-songwriters, also known as "we're showing our age" [was Re: Can't close the v-berth door]

Wasn’t that by Harry Shippin’? :^) Okay, Dennis, go have another Hurricane… and drink one for me… I’d come join you, but I’m a little too far west this week (Wichita Falls, TX). — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 10, 2017, at 5:51

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

Josh — all of the solid-state radar scanners and displays are MUCH more energy efficient than their predecessors. The choice of scanner mostly comes down to whether it’s going to attach to an MFD, or be a black-box unit. If’s it’s going to an MFD, you need to stick with the same manufacturer

Re: Stus-List Can't close the v-berth door

I have the opposite issue with the v-berth door on my Landfall 38; with the boat in the water and the rig under tension, it’s fine, but when the boat’s in the cradle for the winter it won’t close… Kind of a non-issue, I guess… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C

Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

Josh — is that REALLY a CRT radar display? I haven’t seen one of those in years (except for the one somebody posted about a few weeks back, found in a river)… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 10, 2017, at 1:31 PM, Josh Muckley

Re: Stus-List Renaming ceremony

Violeta — there’s a sailboat in my marina named Hummina. Say it three times over the VHF… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 4, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Violeta M I via CnC-List > wrote: > > I think a boat name

Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

At the risk of getting banned from the list, you may want to look at the Saber 362, as well. Well-built and good sailers, they have a decent aft cabin, and a really nice head located aft. The galley is great, and the v-berth is pretty nice, too. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis

Re: Stus-List Wanted to buy: 34+/36xl, 110, or 37+/40

Don’t forget the “wine cellar” under the floor boards... Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 2, 2017, at 10:26 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List > wrote: > > I helped a friend bring his Amel up from the Baha last year. What a

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

I think he may source from Pacer Marine; they’re in Florida. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 1, 2017, at 11:18 AM, Paul E via CnC-List > wrote: > > I have been very happy with marine wire from Greg’s Marine Wire

Re: Stus-List Refit for a 1981 Landfall 38

Joe — PLEASE don’t use welding cable on a boat. It’s not UL- or ABYC-approved for marine use, and the fact that it’s not tinned should be a huge red flag, especially for you saltwater boaters. 4AWG marine battery cable from Pacer Marine is $1.75/ft retail:

Re: Stus-List 35 MK III

Richard — there are a few other lakes connected to Lake Michigan, if I recall my geography correctly… :^) One of the the largest dealers (if not the largest) of C's throughout much of the 70’s and 80’s was Sailboats, Inc; they sold tons of C all over Lake Michigan and more on Lake Superior.

Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides of the tape, you can cut it with a sharp scissors. I just did a square or angled cut as needed to the tape, then butted the next piece right up to the previous piece and kept going. If I understand your second question, when I

Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

Chris — welcome to the great C club! My first sailboat was a 1981 30mkI, hull #677; after ten years, I graduated to a 1979 Landfall 38, hull #009 (I guess I’m going backwards in terms of boat age…). You’ll find LOTS of 30mkI owners on the list, and a wealth of experience about all things C

Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

Also try Jabsco’s website: http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/jabsco/jabsco-pedestal-pumps.htm I was able to replace the after-market raw water pump on my 3QM30 with a direct Jabsco replacement several years ago. Still about

Re: Stus-List 3M tape

Agreed on the 4991. I sourced mine from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a87/=18n2xoz — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Jul 24, 2017, at 1:35 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List >

Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - prop

“Phygital” — when I bought my 1979 LF38 (hull #009) several years back, she had a folding Martec prop, which I hated. So I found the (most likely original) prop, a fixed 2-blade Michigan Sailer in a locker and swapped them out. The boat performs much better in close quarters with the fixed

Re: Stus-List Rules of the Road

But the Law of Gross Tonnages will beat anything… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Jul 18, 2017, at 10:51 AM, detroito91 via CnC-List > wrote: > > Common sense overcomes pure stupidly and lack of knowledge.

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

Dave — the pre-EVO Raymarine pilots definitely did much better with the rudder transducer; it was pretty much required. The EVO pilots do pretty well without it, so it’s not as much of an issue. As far as a below-deck pilot goes, they tend to be more powerful and robust, and will be steadier

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question - spinnaker reach

Joel’s absolutely right — downwind is the hardest point of sail for any autopilot to manage. And Edd, you need to keep in mind that, as I recall, the maximum displacement for that wheel pilot is about 16,500 lbs and your boat is about 16,000 lbs., making it right on the edge for being able to

Re: Stus-List Raymarine S2G (150G) Autopilot and Wheel Drive

Joe’s right on target. The S2G will easily drive the wheel drive unit, with plenty of power to spare; the original setup would have used the S1G course computer. What will you use for a control head? If you need to source the wheel drive unit or other parts, let me know and I can help you. —

Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 Water Pump Rebuild

Paul — I’ve got the Sendure cooling system retrofit on my 3QM, so there’s the engine-mounted pump for the coolant, and a separate belt-driven pump for the cooling water. The separate pump is similar to those being discussed. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38)

Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

Dave — if you’re interested in the Fusion or Polyplanar speaker products, let me know as I can source them for you. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Jul 3, 2017, at 7:10 AM, Dave via CnC-List wrote: > > Merci

Re: Stus-List Northstar Explorer S310 Paddlewheel Axle

Check with Airmar, as they probably made that transducer for Northstar: www.airmar.com/productinfo.html?category=MT=Marine%20Transducers Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On

Re: Stus-List Raymarine chart plotter issues

David — as I mentioned in my recent email about autopilots, have you downloaded and read the 426-page Lighthouse II R19 manual from the Raymarine site? You can get it at https://raymarine.app.box.com/s/8o1sxspkhvf8ev7smk40/file/29762702271

Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

Hi, Bruce — sorry for the delay; I just got back from Bermuda with the Rally to the Cup (aboard Rick Brass’ Imzadi — thanks, Rick!). Do you know what drive you’ve got on your boat? If you can get the model or amp draw off the data plate, I can recommend the properly-sized Raymarine system for

Re: Stus-List Landfall 43

Joe — there’s been one for sale in our marina for the last couple of years: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/C%26C-Landfall-43-2440870/Bayfield---Lake-Superior/WI/United-States#.WTV7tTOZNE4

Re: Stus-List furling line

for the cup rather than > furling line.!! > > > > Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device > > Original message > From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Date: 5/29/17 11:54 AM (

Re: Stus-List furling line

te: > > Yes that was the place I was thinking about. Now to order some low stretch > line for the furling drum. I I need to get down to the boat to see if it is > 3/8 or 5/16 > > Gary > Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> http:

Re: Stus-List furling line

http://www.cajunrope.com — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On May 29, 2017, at 10:49 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List > wrote: > > Are you thinking of Cajun Rope? > > Neil Gallagher >

Re: Stus-List Honey - was RE: A C 39 that has not been trashed! Was C 39 trash project

Hmmm… that sounds just the opposite of a mistress… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On May 25, 2017, at 1:37 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List > wrote: > > How true. Given the chance they will take care of you when times are

Re: Stus-List Garmin GNX 20

Is your N2K network properly terminated? Another thing to check. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On May 23, 2017, at 7:26 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List > wrote: > > John – > > Also check the voltage at the unit.

Re: Stus-List Plexus Removal During Fixed Port Replacement

Agreed — I used a very sharp chisel to carefully get all of the old Plexus off, then sanded and filled with 3M Marine Filler and sanded some more. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI (JUST LAUNCHED YESTERDAY!!!) > On May 16, 2017, at 12:06 PM,

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor for?

I’ve had a difficult time getting the boat up to 88 mph so I can use it, though… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On May 4, 2017, at 4:22 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List > wrote: > > Nah!

Re: Stus-List Removing water tank

PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hi, Jim - to remove the tank, pull the screws and remove the bunk board over > the tank. You can then remove the fill and vent hoses; you should then be > able to lift the tank slightly to get at the outl

Re: Stus-List Removing water tank

Hi, Jim - to remove the tank, pull the screws and remove the bunk board over the tank. You can then remove the fill and vent hoses; you should then be able to lift the tank slightly to get at the outlet fitting on the bottom of the aft end. The tank should just be resting in the cavity below

Re: Stus-List Water heater Mystery

Danny — I’m not sure why they disconnected all of that; but given the high coolant temps, I would definitely replace all of the nylon-reinforced hose with high-temp rated hose. I’ve seen the clear hose develop “aneurisms” when under high temp and pressure; these will burst and you’ll lose all

Re: Stus-List Electrical help please

Yeah, I’ve got one of those, too… :^) Rich, nice to have you back on the list! — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 30, 2017, at 12:37 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List > wrote: > > And… If you

Re: Stus-List Electrical help please

One other gizmo I’ve found helpful, especially when working on boat electrics alone (most of the time…), is a 12-volt Sonalert (beeper) with a couple of feet of wire and alligator clips. It makes it much easier to diagnose when you’ve found the right breaker, or bad connections; wire it across

Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

Ron — look for a product called Concrobium (http://www.concrobium.com ). — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 29, 2017, at 12:06 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List >

Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

Interesting comment, Andy — I’ve got a friend who’s got one up on Lake Superior, and it’s worked well for him. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 28, 2017, at 8:38 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List >

Re: Stus-List Grounding chart plotter

Dave — tie the shield to the negative power wire at the power supply lead to the plotter. I’m sure there’s no RF grounding system on most of our boats; you start seeing it on larger vessels or those with SSB installations. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) --

Re: Stus-List Kids entertainment

+1 on Uno, and don’t forget Yahtzee. Sometimes the greatest toys are things they find to play with on the beach… My kids are grown now, but Yahtzee is still a favorite; along with Cards Against Humanity… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in

Re: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

+1 on MarineBeam products. I did my mast last year, and have been very happy with the results. Don’t go with less-expensive or unproven products for this; it’s something you won’t want to have to redo a few years down the road. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall

Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

On Apr 9, 2017, at 11:29 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote: > My understanding of the situation is as follows: > … >I don't think that either U.S. pleasure craft operators, or U.S. pleasure > craft, are required to have any sort of license to operate within U.S.

Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

Why thank you… usually… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 9, 2017, at 8:59 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List > wrote: > > What Fred said is correct. > His comments usually are.

Re: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

Pete — do you have conduit inside the mast, or are you pulling through the mast without? Based on your description of the “rat’s nest” you found, I’d guess maybe no conduit? An electrical “fish tape” can be your best friend when doing this work. If you’re going to replace the mast lighting,

Re: Stus-List Seatalk adapter cables

Hi, David — the only downside to this is you won’t be able to support SeaTalk1 on the NG network, as the NMEA2000 cable doesn’t have the sixth wire for it. Otherwise, you should be good. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( >

Re: Stus-List AIS and MMSI as well as marine radio use in Canada

Glenn — technically, yes, you do need a Ship’s Station license to use VHF, radar, AIS, SSB, etc. outside the U.S. The BoatUS-issued MMSIs are good only in territorial US waters. But like Andrew said, you most likely won’t be asked for it. The form you need is FCC 605; it is used for a

Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

Matt — you want the house bank to be one big bank, rather than two smaller ones; this will make management easier, and also help to keep you from discharging either of the smaller banks beyond the 50% mark. And assuming you have a reasonably powerful charger, you’ll make the best use of it,

Re: Stus-List Transducer help

Josh — the original instruments on most all of our boats were standalone single-purpose instruments; the transducers connected directly to them, and they did NOT network at all. Signet, Moor and EMS are brands which come to mind. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall

Re: Stus-List Transducer help

Chuck — that might work for the paddlewheel, but the impedances will be all wrong for the depth and wind transducers, and you’ll also have two sources for the depth transducer (Signet instrument and ITC-5) fighting each other. Also, the Signet wind transducer is a different transducer from the

Re: Stus-List Transducer help

Hello, Tom, and welcome to the list! My first boat was a 1981 30mkI, hull #677; wow, a 12” plotter is going to be huge on that boat! I’ve got a 7” on my Landfall 38… :^) Your existing instruments probably are Signet; but they can’t be networked with the eS Series, which requires NMEA2000

Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

Bronze is what was used originally on the C, both for the fixed windows and the hatches, FWIW… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 5, 2017, at 12:30 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List > wrote: >

Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

LifeCaulk is not recommended for plastics because it’s partly a polysulfide product, which will eat plastic. LifeSeal is my product of choice for this. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:59 AM, Steve

Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

NO, not the dreaded foreign car thread again?! :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Apr 5, 2017, at 7:57 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > Geez--this list is starting to sound like

Re: Stus-List Window thickness

Eric — when I redid my windows last year, it was 1/4” from the previous owner that was part of the cause of the failure. You really need to use thicker acrylic (NOT Lexan…); I ended up with 9mm (just under 3/8”) and it worked well. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C

Re: Stus-List Depth sounder installation

Mike — part of the reason to use a backing block is to make sure you have a flat spot in the rounded hull to mount the transducer; it’s not so much for reinforcement. It also gives you more of the shaft of the transducer to seal with whatever goop you use as a sealant; I use LifeSeal when I

Re: Stus-List Raymarine SeaTalk Cables

Okay, Edd, I’ll bite… :^) The cable going from the backbone to the MFD is a “spur” cable; as long as the backbone is properly terminated (you were planning on properly putting terminators on each end of the SeaTalkNG backbone, right?), leaving a spur disconnected shouldn’t cause any issues.

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C 37/40+

Matthew — I used this: > 1/2” gray 4991 from McMaster Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a77/=11qrjgk > It has held up well, and was easy to install; so long as get it in the right place before you stick it down… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V

Re: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

Peter — my depth and speed transducers are under the step up to the V-berth; there’s a trapezoidal panel that lifts off. If you can see the transducer on outside of the hull, you should be able to get an idea of where it is on the inside. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

Graham — the Eye Twist variant just puts a half twist in the web before stitching the eye; the twist referred to in the list discussion means putting twists in the body of the jackline before securing it, so that the twists stand proud of the deck, making it easier to clip on. I’ve generally

Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

Paul — I’d like to see your install photos; but the link below doesn’t let me in. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Mar 27, 2017, at 12:41 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List > wrote: > > Hi Jacob, > > I

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

Graham — it depends a bit on your boat’s setup; but basically you want the backlines to start and end about six feet from the ends of the boat, so you don’t get dragged behind the boat if you go over. On my boat, the previous owner put a padeye on the foredeck aft of the bow a ways; I use one

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

Graham — this is pretty typical of what many people use: https://www.karstsports.com/1-flat-webbing/ 6000 lbs breaking strength may seem like a lot; but after a few seasons of UV, it’ll be significantly lower than that. The knots at the ends will

Re: Stus-List Jacklines/Harnesses/Tethers

Graham — for theaters, I have a Kong double; it’s a great piece of kit: http://www.pyacht.com/kong.htm I use it with my inflatable PFD with built-in harness: http://www.pyacht.com/cgi-bin/pagegen.pl?pr+musMD3082

Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

Ryan — many on the list prefer a standard climbing harness and ascenders for this type of job. I personally prefer to sit while working for long periods of time, so I use the ATN TopClimber (now called the “MastClimber”): http://www.atninc.com/atn-mastclimber-sailing-equipment.shtml

Re: Stus-List Zinc decay

Yeah, one of Stu’s bottles of rum… :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Mar 15, 2017, at 4:21 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: > > Wow – do I get a prize J > Joe > Coquina > C 35 MK

Re: Stus-List Stugeron equivalent (Cinnarizine) from Hong Kong

I was one of those “someones” who recommended online sources… :^) I’d be cautious buying in Asia, after all of the issues with baby formula a few years back: https://www.forbes.com/sites/yanzhonghuang/2014/07/16/the-2008-milk-scandal-revisited/#4d1360ea4105

Re: Stus-List LED Nav Lights

Brad — I’ve been extremely happy with all of the MarineBeam mast lighting I installed last year. Very bright, and well-made. I put on the combo steaming/deck light, as well as the anchor/tricolor light, and all are very visible over long distances. A couple of years ago, I also replaced the

Re: Stus-List iPad Navigation

Bill — if you have an onboard WiFi router and get the AIS data to that from an AIS receiver or VHF, that’s another way to get AIS data to your iPad or tablet (rather than shore stations). Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Mar

Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

Although it probably won’t stow on the foredeck as well as a roll-up, I recently got a good deal on a Mercury fiberglass RIB from Defender. They still have a few of the Hypalon 2015 versions left at $1895.00: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C215570%7C1794282%7C1794293=3227587

Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

Josh — respectfully: At some point, you have to trust in something. When offshore, there’s no coastal piloting tricks like taking bearings. If all the electronics die and the compass craps out, you’re in trouble. Having backups to the backups in electronics allow you to compare data from

Re: Stus-List Exterior Teak Varnish Recommendation?

Gary — I’ve tried Sikkens in the past, and was less than happy with the results. Last winter, I decided to try Awlwood on my handrails and Dorade boxes, and was very pleased with the results. I hope to do my toerail this spring. It looks like this product is going to hold up well, with a

Re: Stus-List Tablets for navigation

I used Nobeltec TZ on my iPad Mini (along with a Bad Elf BluetoothGPS receiver) for the Annapolis to Bermuda Race a few years back; it was nice for its portability. But even with the Mini in a splash-proof Lifeproof case, I wouldn’t want to rely on it as the primary source for navigation.

Re: Stus-List Wind sensor for n2k

Hi, Dave! The ultrasonic weather sensors are pretty nice; but there’s some infrastructure you’re going to need around it. You already have the SeaTalkNG bus going, with your existing pilot and i70. You’ll need to integrate the sensor into that; then also have an NMEA2000-to-WiFi gateway

Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

Mike — I think that link isn’t correct… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Feb 23, 2017, at 2:27 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List > wrote: > > Sorry Edd > > There are pictures at

Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

Edd — something like this might be a better option for an area with lower typical wind speeds: https://www.emarineinc.com/rutland-914i-12v-24v-wind-turbine — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on

Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

Edd — this unit doesn’t get too many good reviews online; in part, it sounds like it’s fairly noisy, and takes more than a little wind to get any reasonable output. Caveat emptor… — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Feb

Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

Alex — not required, but always a good idea: > A ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) may be used on single phase > AC circuits to provide additional protection for personnel and equipment. — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI

Re: Stus-List New sonar transducer

Only if you spend a lot of time with your head up against the transducer. :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Feb 22, 2017, at 1:30 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List > wrote: > > I am wondering if

Re: Stus-List New sonar transducer

Jeremy — to get greater depths, you need a transducer that will accept more power from the sounder, as well as a sounder that can provide that power. The typical transducer most of us have on our boats is rated at 60 watts; but they’ll take up to 100 watts if the sounder can provide that much

Re: Stus-List Autopilot control head

David — if it’s a ram-based (not wheel-based) system, you’ll need more than just the control head; you’ll also need the course computer to drive the ram, along with a heading sensor of some sort. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( >

Re: Stus-List Raymarine new plotters and software (No SeaTalkng??)

spot.com/> > > > > Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2017 14:02:49 -0600 > From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>> > To: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Subject: Stus

Re: Stus-List Update- Re: Charge light in cockpit flashing?

I wonder if maybe your alternator belt is loose. — Fred Frederick G Street 13925 277th Ave NW Zimmerman MN 55398 f...@postaudio.net 612.839.6565 cell > On Feb 19, 2017, at 9:57 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > The light flashes once

Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

Alex — remember that the fuse or breaker protects the wire, not the device. A 15-amp breaker will be appropriate for any wire down to 18AWG in the engine space. The only branch circuit devices that need specific fuse sizing are things with motors in them (pumps or blowers). — Fred Fred

Stus-List Raymarine new plotters and software

Raymarine has announced some new plotter hardware with faster processors, and upcoming software updates for existing plotters: http://www.panbo.com/archives/2017/02/bam_raymarine_axiom_mfds_lighthouse_3_realvision_3d_sonar_flir_m100200_clearcruise.html

Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator

the rude comments, make sure it’s properly fused at the house bank… :^) — Fred Frederick G Street 13925 277th Ave NW Zimmerman MN 55398 f...@postaudio.net 612.839.6565 cell > On Feb 13, 2017, at 8:48 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >

Re: Stus-List Battery test

cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > I'd like to know more about the technology, how it works, and how accurate it > is. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Feb 7, 2017 6:45 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" > <cnc-li

Re: Stus-List Battery test

I think I’ll stick with my Midtronics conductive tester; good, accurate results on the health of my golf-cart and start batteries, it only takes a minute, and no chance of starting things on fire… :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI

Re: Stus-List Battery test

Len — short of using a load tester that discharges the batteries, the most reliable way of testing the capacity of batteries is using something like a conductance load tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZFNJ6Y/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8=1789=390957=B00IZFNJ6Y=as2=carbattcharce-20

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Gadgets and Gizmos

Chuck — virtually all of the major manufacturers (including Raymarine) use Airmar transducers; chances are good that your existing transducers are also Airmar, and would interface just fine with the ITC-5. The ITC-5 can accept inputs from depth, speed, temp, wind, fluxgate compass and rudder

Re: Stus-List Raymarine announcement: wireless gateway

ered wind transmitter options. Now it’s possible to use > these ultra-lightweight and highly accurate sensors with Raymarine i60, i70 > and i70s Instrument systems. > > — Fred Frederick G Street 13925 277th Ave NW Zimmerman MN 55398 f...@postaudio.net 612.839.6565 cell > On

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