I have to get it off the pump--I'll get back to you with it.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats.
I like ShurFlow pumps and I use the same version of the pump for my pressure
water, deck wash, and shower sump. That way I can carry one spare pump for all
those applications.
Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
On Jul 23, 2015, at 6:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
The original tanks can be weld repaired using LLDPE rods. Any plastic welder
can do this.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 8, 2015, at 4:57 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Hello Listers,
My starboard water tank has sprung a leak.
The tank was made by Kracor, and
Kracor has made most tanks for CC's. I really doubt that your aluminum tank
lasted 25 years without leaking.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 25, 2015, at 7:29 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
As per previous post I have bought a CC 37 Plus and am in need of a new
Rob:
Another factor that probably improved the steering was the possibility that the
bearing collar that is mounted to the deck was misaligned when it was stiff and
corrected when you reassembled it. I experienced this problem on my LF 38 many
years ago (after I bought a new rudder believing
I have a 1983 LF38 and my cabinet doors in the galley are some some type of
cream colored laminate over plywood--not teak. The galley arrangement as well
as the shower arrangement were options in 1983. The separate shower (which I
don't have) I understand was a popular and valued option. I
Seems like a good boat but Stainless steel holding tank is not a good idea.
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 15, 2015, at 7:25 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
A friend of mine is pretty impressed with a 1981 LF38 for sale at Ashley
Yachts in Charleston, SC and is
I replaced my rudder about 15 years ago...
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 15, 2015, at 7:44 PM, Louise Lemay via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
My question is, did anyone as ever took the rudder off? I dismanteled the
wheel chain but there is a thing called key way(translated word for
Stainless steel is not resistant to the type of acids salt you get in a
holding tank--plastic is much better.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 15, 2015, at 8:07 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:
why not agood idea?
jim
=20
=20
-Original Message-
From: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com
Could the worn keyway be related to the need for the transmission rebuild? I
have gone through two transmission rebuilds in the 30 years I've owned my boat.
I've never encountered a loose keyway though.
If there is any chance of losing your shaft, I would fix it ASAP and I wouldn't
rely on a
Joe: I use a 135% on my LF38 and I think a 130 or 135 is perfect for the bay.
By the way, I think I saw your boat on a mooring buoy in Annapolis on Memorial
Day weekend--do you have a dark blue hull?
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email:
15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one. Have you measured the
voltage output from the solar panel?
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so
I used a 35-lb CQR on my LF38 for many years on the Chesapeake Bay with only 10
feet of chain. It was fine except in real bad blows. I have since changed to
a 45-lb Bruce and will be adding a 45-lb Rocna as I prepare for long-distance
cruising in sand bottoms--both anchors with 35 feet of
I made my own manifold using plastic pipe fittings and 3-way valves.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats.
worth doing as simply
messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame
On May 28, 2015, at 10:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Bob,
Any chance you could send pictures?
Thanks,
Josh
On May 28, 2015 10:09 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
for replacement.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
On May 28, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Yes, I could take a pic on my boat. It is haled out for maintenance right
now but I will be on it on Saturday...
Bob
messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame
On May 28, 2015, at 10:58 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Fred:
That's a good idea--I will make a blogpost on the manifold system. I have to
rip out a leaking water tank anyway and I should be able to get some good
places--that's why I
replaced it all.
Bob
On May 28, 2015, at 11:39 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:
Fred:
My newer LF38 is 32 years old and most of the original plumbing has been
replaced!
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr
On my LF38, I found that making more substantial backing plates (under the
deck) had a pronounced impact on the rigidity of the stanchions. The original
backing plates were only 1 x 2 x 1/8 thick aluminum. I used 1/4 thick
aluminum plates (roughly 3-1/2 x 7) when I reinforced mine. I didn't
I have replaced most of the original gray hoses with vinyl water hose. This
also means changing the connections to hose barbs--they are a lot more reliable!
Bob
On May 27, 2015, at 7:14 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
New issue for me, but I hope others have run into this. Alera has a
It might also be simply a low level of transmission fluid--i'd check this first!
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
There is a lot of different opinions on batteries and how you configure them.
I yhink if the system you've chosen works for you, why not use it. There
really is no right or wrong wY. In fact 20 years ago, the system you've chosen
is what almost every sailor used and it worked. Now, the
I don't have a lot to add on this subject except for some good photographs of a
dismasted sailboat--a Catalina 27. The cause of the dismasting was failed
chain plates and sailing in 40-50 knot winds. Pictures are on my most recent
blogpost.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983
You can use a dye penetrant (available from Grainger, Fastenal, etc.) to
confirm it is a crack.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing
Adrian: My tanks are still original (except I removed my holding tank when I
went with the composting toilet) and they were made by Kracor.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is
Maybe one or two blades of the pump's impeller are worn off so that the pump
supplies enough cooling water up to a point. I would check the impeller next.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is
The quadrant is only an inch above the tank on a LF 38 and there is no way I'd
ever consider a bladder tank in such a precarious position on my boat. A
little bit of rubbing from the cable and you would have diesel fuel all over
the place.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC
Phil:
I just did this replacement last winter in my LF38. I had my boat yard do it
but I could have done it myself if I had enough time. The partial bulkhead
just in front of the tank has to be completely removed--a Fein saw works great
for this! Then you have to remove the water heater and
West Marine's rigging shop can do it all for you and they do a nice job of it.
Bob
On Apr 30, 2015, at 1:15 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List wrote:
Hi All,
I just found out from my 84 yr old mom whose otherwise healthy as a horse,
that she has declined invitations to sail because
My spacers are all aft of the mast.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame
On Apr 30,
Paul:
By making a cutout in the bulkhead between the desired area for the A/C and the
storage space under the starboard settee, the motor (which protrudes outward
from the unit slightly) can fit into that space. This is what I did on mine...
Pricing looks good on the unit you have selected.
I have a Marine Air system on my Landfall 38--it is 12,500 Btu unit and is is
located in a cabinet beneath a set of drawers on the starboard side just
forward of the head. I selected the unit because it was the best fit in the
space I had available. I did the installation myself and I have
:
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 10:55:38 -0400
From: Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com
To: PME dre...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38
Message-ID: 09132ee6-3766-49a3-8d54-e48e8ba28...@icloud.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I have
That's probably because they are sold by distributors and not direct to end
users.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 23, 2015, at 1:04 PM, PME via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Thanks for recommendation. I just noticed that Cruisar is made by Dometic
who also makes units under the
An interesting question! Not that I have an answer, but when I was living
aboard I found the conventional dining table located in the center of the main
salon a nuisance--it always seemed to be in the way. So, I removed it and, in
its place, I used a round teak bistro table which I could move
Not to make things more complicated but the veneers on the currently available
materials are thinner than the original TH used in our CCs of the 70's and
80's.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
What do we know about the failure modes of these devices?
Bob
On Apr 7, 2015, at 12:18 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List wrote:
to limit the maximum current between the battery banks, it protects the relay
contacts. 'They' calculated what resistance is needed not to exceed the
contacts
. Is this what
the back of your sender looks like? Which wires do you have attached where?
Josh
On Apr 4, 2015 10:49 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
When you connect the sensing wire to ground, the needle goes positive all
the way as it should do but it does
When you connect the sensing wire to ground, the needle goes positive all the
way as it should do but it does not register the fuel level.
I now believe that one gauge is working correctly because the needle moved
slightly positive when energized--but the tank is completely empty.
The other
I'm sharing an electrical problem right now in the hope that someone here on
this list has had a similar problem and solved it...
Over the winter I added an auxiliary 19-gallon diesel tank under the nav
station seat. I decided to buy 2 new fuel gauges, one for the new auxiliary
fuel tank and
I believe that ABYC only governs the practice of boat builders and boat repair
contractors. I don't believe there is any requirement that our old boats have
to be brought up to the current ABYC standards (which are always being
improved). A survey done on your boat may recommend that
Joel: I had the same type of winch problem last year on my port jib sheet
winch. Once I got it apart I just thoroughly cleaned it, greased it up good,
and put it back together and its been working fine since. Sanding is probably
not necessary...
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
I replaced my hatch gaskets with 5/8-inch round gasket material and it wouldn't
fit properly in the grooves in the hatch frame and I couldn't close the hatches
without breaking something--so, I went back to 1/2-inch as it was originally
designed. (I've described this on one of my blogposts.)
I've connected my midship drains to the aft drains and then to a much larger
thru hull at the stern above the waterline. They are connected with increasing
hose sizes. I described this in a recent blog post. The system works great.
I couldn't remove the old hose in back of the ice box.
Bob
water, they deposit to the bilge.
Not just a winter concern.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
-- Original message--
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List
Date: Mon, Mar 23, 2015 11:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
Subject:Re: Stus-List Bilge pump
The CC Landfall 38 came from
Edd: I had the same problem with bilge pump float switches failing. It turned
out to be the old un-tinned wire. Every time I replaced a switch, it would
work for awhile until the un-tinned wires got corroded near the most recent
splice. Since I changed out this wiring to good tinned wire, I
The CC Landfall 38 came from the factory with two mid-ship deck drains that
drained into the bilge--the other two (aft) deck drains drained overboard.
During the winter, these two midship deck drains can accumulate a lot of water
in the bilge. So, not all CC's can simply use manually operated
I learned the hard way--its the old un-tinned wire. I wouldn't downgrade the
pump size!
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
I believe mine is constructed from aluminum, but still a casting. As I recall,
the forestay is connected to this piece via a tang but there is structural
attachment to the hull just below it. So, it won't allow your rig to come down
but still might be an issue.
Bob
On Mar 16, 2015, at 3:58
In a forum you can make your individual settings such that postings on a topic
you are subscribed to will be emailed to you when each posting is made. I
think you can respond to the posting on a forum via email, so I don't
understand how it would leave Wally out of the picture.
The forum
I much prefer a forum! It would end the repeated copying of text and resending
it over and over. I've read the notice to mariners about ice on the northern
Chesapeake Bay about 10 times now because listers think they have to copy it I
guess so that everyone knows what they are responding to.
Stu's original listing was copied and resent 11 times in 12 messages! Does
everyone really like this? It is completely unnecessary and would probably be
eliminated in a forum format. That's really the primary change--the people
would be the same.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983
I have 10 gauge wires to/from my BD50 compressor and use a circuit breaker for
on/off with no problems. I'm considering adding a second set of 10 gauge wires
too to see how much more efficiency I get that way. Of course I won't know
until it warms up around here!
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy
The AC and DC should be on completely separate panels and the AC panel and
wiring should have an enclosure to prevent inadvertent contact (per ABYC). You
can always add a short length to the wire (on the DC side) so that you can
reach a terminal. I am not endorsing what a PO may have done,
We still have ice on the West River but its thawing!!!
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats. --Kenneth
I recently learned of the importance of using wires for refrigeration systems
that are 2 sizes larger than the anchor wire charts recommend--it is amazing
how the voltage drop experienced otherwise reduces the efficiency of the
fridge.
Since this is your first foray into boat wiring, use
I want to add another possibility on this subject--the problem may simply be a
small misalignment of the upper bearing which is bolted to the deck. I had
this problem on my Landfall 38 and didn't find it until I had replaced my
rudder (thinking that it was a bent rudder shaft). The bolts on
I replaced the original Jabsco pump (and the hoses) for my shower drain a long
time ago. For ease of carrying spares and parts, I use the same ShurFlo pump
model on my fresh water system, my deck wash, and my shower drain/icebox
pumpout. The ShurFlo is a lot quieter than the Jabsco. (I
I have never had a problem of cockpit drains freezing in the 30+ years I've
owned my Landfall 38. Most years I have winterized in the water with my
cockpit drains open. Of course, I am not in Canada or New England where
temperatures are lower but our creeks and rivers being frozen over are
I recently replaced my hatch seals. I bought the gaskets from Atkins Hoyle
because I didn't have the specs to source otherwise. I used Sika #291 or
#295UV--can't recall at the moment.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog:
I have used a screwdriver and a 1/4-inch wide wood chisel successfully to
remove balsa cored from drilled holes. The bent nail in a drill never worked
very well for me.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog:
I think all hatches on Cc's were made by Atkins Hoyle. They are still in
business and sell gaskets and parts for their hatches.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely
Just to add to others' experience with frameless fixed port lights, my Landfall
38 is a 1983 vintage and I have owned it since 1986. Since 1986 I made two
port light replacements using 3/8-inch thick cast acrylic and plexus before
making my last and final fix without Plexus (about 13 years
There are a total of 6 lifeline stanchions that seem to have undersized backing
plates on my LF38. The backing plates in these locations are actually two
1-inch by 2-inch aluminum plates. I have designed much heavier backing plates
and installed the first one. However, I've found out that
I am very interested in the Micron 66 bottom paint. Rob, is your boat in
fresh, salt, or brackish water?
Merry Christmas to everyone on the list!!!
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is
In my opinion its not all that bad. There is a lot of access through the
starboard cockpit locker for changing the solenoid/starter, oil filter, air
filter, and v-belts. The panel between the cockpit locker and the engine is
removable. Getting to the water pump to change the impeller was
Can I come down for the entire winter?
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
messing about in boats. --Kenneth
Joe: it is my understanding that a masthead tricolor is not a substitute for
deck-level running lights--it can and should be used in addition.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is
I agree with the other recommendation to reduce the number of solar panels,
rather than increasing it. I have (2) 100-watt Solbian flexible panels and
they work great but I am noticing that in the Fall when the days become
shorter, my generation is reduced. So, I will be adding another 100
Bill:
Your CC 39 (I think) is probably a stiffer boat (less flexing) and that may be
why your Plexus is surviving so well. All I have is the experience on my
Landfall 38 (1983) and the original windows were installed at the factory in
Rhode Island.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days /
If Plexis has lasted 20-30 years, why take a risk on something with
less of a track record? Seems as if Plexis has Proven itself to last
plenty long.
I have owned my boat for 28 years, buying it from the original owner when it
was 3 years old. I know I replaced the windows the first time
I need to add that this solenoid is for a Yanmar 3HMF and that the part number
for a solenoid for 3GM is different. So, I'm assuming this solenoid (Part
number X212077002) will only work in a 3HMF.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email:
Since my post yesterday, I found a similar solenoid starter on eBay for $40.
It is NOT a Yanmar part (it was made by Hitachi though) but it might be useful
for someone who only wants a spare solenoid. The listing is at:
Back in July, I replaced my starter and solenoid because my solenoid went bad
and I could only buy the solenoid with a starter. The new starter and solenoid
are not Yanmar manufactured.
Recently, when going thru my spare engine parts, I found a new-in-box Yanmar
solenoid (whoops). Since I
If you go the Plexus route, you will be redoing the windows every several
years--the flexing of the boat breaks the adhesive loose and then it leaks
again. If you plan to keep your boat for some time, you can make a permanent
window upgrade like I did (with stainless steel frames) on my
I don't think I have any sole supports that are as short as 2 foot long nor are
they black--mine are silver color...
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so
I would be up for a meeting too. Pussers has great drinks but terrible food
unless you stick with appetizers only. The Chart House is much better in my
opinion and it would be a little further away from the boat show tear down
mess. Even though I'll be at the boat show on Saturday, I'm local
Jonathan:
I had a similar problem which turned out to be the starter solenoid. They are
sealed units--so, no repair is possible. I replaced the starter and solenoid
before I realized that I had a spare solenoid on board in my spares kit. If
you want to buy it from me, let me know--they are
I have never had any significant leakage that runs down my mast in the 28 years
that I have owned my boat. Occasionally, I have some small leaks in a heavy
downpour. When you think about it, the opening for halyard exits are downward
and not much rain water can get in at that point. I would
We need to know more about your propane system. Is it the original propane
system? How old is the solenoid?
Also, how old is the wiring? If it is 30 years old and un-tinned wire--this is
a good place to start--it probably should be replaced. I have been in the
wiring replacement process
I am planning to remove my companionway hood and check for leaks later this
Fall. Leaks into the hood are not an issue but I think the screws that fasten
the hood simply screw into the outer layer of fiberglass and penetrate into the
balsa core (like many other original fastenings). I will
Just to add a little more to this discussion, there is no part of the
transmission that is under enough pressure to create a spray. There is a
vent in the dipstick and the transmission fluid simply moves around by gravity
and the motion of the gears, etc.
Also, it will cost about $750 to have
I am converting to a composting toilet (Air Head) in a couple weeks. I don't
understand why more people on this list have not done the same. When I go into
someone else's boat I can almost always smell their holding
tank/hoses/whatever. I think people just get used to smelling it and don't
You will probably need new shaft seals. It will cost $1200 to $2000 to have it
done, depending on what else they find when the tear it apart. As long as you
keep up the fluid level you can continue to use it for the remainder of the
season. I used my boat for several weeks this way, but I
My boat didn't come with any sound insulation around the engine! Since my
engine compartment is not completely closed, I wouldn't think that adding it
now would be very helpful.
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog:
I had a recent issue just prior to and into the first week of a recent
month-long sailing trip where I had intermittent starting problems with my
3HMF30. It turned out to be the solenoid for the starter. The old solenoids
are sealed units--so there really is no way to repair them. I then
About 8 to 10 years ago, I replaced all my upholstery with vinyl and mesh
bottoms. I don't have any mildew problems but the vinyl is de laminating in
spots that are most used or have a crease. I will have to replace everything
again. I would never use vinyl again for interior upholstery but
Could someone provide a brief diagram or picture of the plate below the
pedestal that corrodes. I'm not sure that my LF38 has the same construction
but I want to check for this on my boat since it is 31 years old and I plan to
head offshore in 2 years...thanks!
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days /
Wal: you must be lucky or I am unlucky, my Rule bilge pump float switches last
from one to 3 years and this replacement frequency has been going on for the 27
years I've owned my boat! (My last Rule bilge pump lasted about 15 years
though--real good service!). I am switching to a completely
I don't have. 30 Mk 1 but a Landfall 38 and I will be switching to a Nature's
Head composting toilet very soon. You can completely eliminate the holding
tank, all the smelly plumbing, and be zero discharge. It seems like a no
brainier decision to me. The cost is about $1,000 but you save
I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and
chain size for only a 27-lb anchor. I use that size anchor line and chain on
my 44-lb anchor!
Bob
Bob Boyer
(Sent from my iPad4)
S/V Rainy Days
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email:
I'm sure there are differences between our boats and available space, but on my
LF38 the back end of the linear drive is fastened to the underside of the
cockpit floor using carriage bolts--it is very sturdy and works great!
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
My LF38 is a 1983 vintage but my original dorade boxes were fastened just like
Fred's. About 10 years ago I made custom dorade boxes from StarBoard and
switched to larger stainless steel dorade vents--I eliminated the teak
maintenance, kept the original appearance of the dorade boxes, and
Why would you need this with a Diesel engine?
Bob
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
I have been thinking about upgrading my RayMarine chart plotter to the E7 for
its larger display. I think the display I have right now is the A50 (I don't
have my model number with me at home--its on the boat). What is involved in
upgrading the display to the E7?
I currently have my
This past weekend I disassembled, cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled 4 of my
7 Barient winches and I did 1 two weekends ago--so 5 of 7 have been done. My
Barient 22 and 18's got new pawls, pawl springs, and circular spring clips
(purchased from West Marine but the originals still worked
Frank:
I have owned my LF38 for 27 years and have made a lot of upgrades to it over
the years. Since we both live in Annapolis, we should get together and discuss
our boats and upgrades.
I have decided against installing a windlass (at least for now) because of
several reasons.
My cell
I completely agree with Joe on this issue! (Even though, I've just recently
become more active on this list, I remember most of the same listers way back
when this group was part of Sailnet.) I would like to add another aspect to
Joe's list decorum: you should notice that Joe has never listed
I followed Charlotte's blog for some time and was wondering why it stopped all
of a sudden. I could tell that their trip was not going to last long but I
thought they would return to Mexico after a few days at sea.
However, risk is one of the things that attracts us to sailing.
Bob Boyer
The original grease fitting on my LF38 was a simple metal cup that is pulled
off, packed with grease, and pushed back on--it is located just behind the fuel
tank slightly above the fuel tank. It is accessed thru the opening at the
aft end of the quarter berth. To make life easier, I screwed
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