Hello All,
Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess)
a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and
instructions to something that reminds me of putting
toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can
anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it
take to pull on the
IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly.
I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them
out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length.
There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about
the tilt bail. Lots of different
Ron, Don -
I learned a good deal more clarification today, about
ESD Safe - and one's potential house wiring situation.
Thanks.
Looks like one has to verify, with available
testers, and electricians if need be, that their
facility and shack and home, are wired correctly
and that the SINGLE
Following up on my earlier question, I can report that the minimal PSK31
interface described in the Elecraft Application Notes actually works.
For receive, I got a stereo cable with plugs on each end, running from
the K2 speaker jack to the computer line in, and for sending a stereo
cable from the
Oh, yes, I remember. That blasted bail!
We can buy pre-wound toroids - someone needs to sell a pre-mounted bail!
I think I put my bail in a vise and tried to squeeze it down a bit. I
also used some of the longer screws to get things started then swapped
them out once it was together.
- Keith
The 8-pin plugs are available at your local Radio Shack (#274-001A).
73,
ed - k9ew
The hardest part of it all was locating an 8-pin mic plug for sale in
the US -- Cheapham.com came through.
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Jim:
The way I've successfully done it, and with NO(!) effort, is to
install the feet/bail using much longer (say 1) screws... TIGHTEN
things down and then, one at a time, replace the long screws with the
proper ones.
Using the longer screws makes it very easy to get everything in place
There is a RF cable from the ATU to the mainboard. The auxbux is detecting
the ATU so that's connected, but the RF most likely is not. The RF cable
plugs into the main board at RF-P6. Do not connect it to RF-P3, the battery
connector!
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
snipneither Ant jacks 1 or 2 seem to
Jim,
Install the first foot and tighten it, and then either:
1) Install the second foot using 'builder provided' long screws - after
things are lined up and tightened with the long screws, remove the long
ones one at a time and replace them with the proper screws.
2) Use a clamp to compress
VISE - that is the trick. Just force some (SOME)
of the spring width out of the metal item.
It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small
amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to
make it wider again in a Vise.
Fred, N3CSY
Good Morning All,
A number of hams have ordered a SoftRock Lite kit for the K3 IF application.
The SoftRock Lite for this use includes a 32.768 MHz crystal to give a
center frequency of about 8.191 MHz. This would require that the soundcard
used for the application sample at 96 kHz to span
Kristina,
You will just have to continue measuring things until you discover the
root cause. Did you measure the resistance at the power plug with the
power switch ON? Try the checks below (in order until you find the source).
Measure the resistance to ground from the cathode of D12. You
Fred,
I believe you are advocating bending a permanent reduction in the bail
width with the vise (if not, I have misunderstood you).
I do NOT recommend doing that since it results in a loose fitting bail
which will be 'floppy'.
Using a vise or a clamp to squeeze the bail temporarily while
I started tracing 13.8 V from the power source
Input 13.8 V
Diode D10 Cathode 13.8 V Anode 0 to ground as per specifications
Diode D9 Anode 0 V Cathode 0 V
So, it seems power is not getting to the D9 Diode
From the schematic on page 64, it looks as those are the only components on
the trace
Hi all,
following my message inserted on may 24th : Better to
use AD9912 and not AD9910, I have received several
enquiries about any test done on the AD9912.
Yes, my good friend Giuliano, I0CG (of AD9951 DDS
fame), is performing measurements on the AD9912 and
also comparisons with his already
Tim,
Even when the KAT2 is attached, you can still hear signals through the
base K2 antenna jack - that is NOT a problem.
If you cannot receive through the ANT1 or ANT2 jacks on the KAT2, the
problem must be with the KAT2. Since I presume it worked before, look
for the easy things first,
Fred,
I believe you are advocating bending a permanent reduction in the bail
width with the vise (if not, I have misunderstood you).
I do NOT recommend doing that since it results in a loose fitting bail
which will be 'floppy'.
Using a vise or a clamp to squeeze the bail temporarily
One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those
discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one
bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it
tourniquet style to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn
together enough to
Alan,
You are reading the schematic correctly - yes there should be a
connection between the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 (check to be
certain they are connected with an ohmmeter first).
If you find the path open, you could install a TEMPORARY jumper between
D10 cathode and D9 anode
Hi Elecrafters,
I just sold my big, heavy linear power supply to replace it with
a small, light weight switching supply that I can pack into a suitcase
with my K2/100. Looking at the eham.net reviews, comments on all of the
switching supplies seem to range from great, absolutely no
Hi Jim,
I just put mine together last weekend. There is quite a bit of tension with
the bail. In fact, my aluminum plate is bowed slightly from trying to get the
other end of the bail fastened. It flattened when I attached it to the K2.
Gary, N7HTS
On Thu, 24 May 2007 20:25:58 -0700
Hello Everybody!
Just a quick reminder that the next QRP-ARCI sponsored
contest is coming up this weekend on Sunday Evening.
The HOOTOWL SPRINT runs from 8pm to midnight LOCAL
TIME to test your abilities to work through the night.
Hope to hear everybody on the air.
73/72
Jeff - VA3JFF
I have been using an Astron SS-30M with no noise difference on or off on
10-160M for my K2 and other 12V stuff. It sits about 4' away from the
equipment on a shelf under my operating position.
N2TK, Tony
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Fred wrote:
And secondly, which now makes much sense, that no
secondary ground rods are to be used! - for one's
electrical service in the home or facility.
Multiple grounds, can create shock hazards.
And as Don pointed out - a separate ground
rod, if used at all, may be useful for one's RF
Hi Barry,
When you access any of these functions, VFO B is used to change the
parameter. If there are two parameters to adjust, VFO A is used as
well.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
I have been looking at the picture of the K3 and note that there are
adjustable NR, NB and manual notch - but there doesn't
With all this discussion about panadaptors for the K3 - and even people
building SoftRock add-ons already, apparently - I have just one question.
Since the K3 is reported to have a built-in capability to receive
datamodes, which presumably includes some kind of waterfall display, could
this
To take a lead from my former ME associates back
at Kodak's CAD group - I think the Elecraft K2
bail, as designed, has too much K and is a tad
too long. Decreasing length, ever so little in
a vise - makes the whole job and final installation
work nicely. I think the idea of temporarily
Robert,
I have used the Astron SS-30 PS on my K2/100. Worked fine. Used during FD and
everyday use. No hash that I can detect. I got the one without meters.
Cheaper and available at the time
Lee - K0WA
In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't
-- Original message --
From: Dale Boresz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those
discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one
bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it
I have a couple of questions on the K3.
1) I gather there is no agreed standard for digital voice modulation
(at the moment). AOR seems to be using an open standard that they
ascribe to G4GUO. My question is does the K3 have the capability to
internally encode/decode a protocol such as the G4GUO
Thanks for all the help. Used a combination. Came up
with the Big Red method. Sure someone has already
done it. Only requirement is a large clamp or vise.
Follow directions in the manual with first foot and
insert bail in that foot. Take other foot and put the
regular screws in. Chew some
Don,
Thanks for your help. When I checked for continuity between the cathode of
D10 and the anode of D9 it came up negative - problem.
So I temporarily jumped the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 and the rig
powered up correctly.
Then I took the heat sink off and I see trouble, not sure if
The 6-sided K2 Case, I propose, can be put into
a violin-case permanent pre-stressed condition,
common to many string instruments - when they
notorious Bail - is pre-stressed installed,
with the Long-Screw method. Many installers have
noted the post-stress bowed cover plate, after
their
This might be a possibility for the future, Dwight, but probably not
this year. Of course any K3 owner is welcome to develop their own rack
mount solution and share it with the list.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On May 25, 2007, at 11:32 AM, Dwight wrote:
Had asked prior to Dayton, but really did not get
I just finished the build of the various KX1 items that I purchased at the
Viasalia DX Convention. All went well at each stage of the build from basic
KX1+KXAT1+KXB30+KXPD1. I am checking out the total configuration and I notice
something now that I don't recall see earlier. After I finish
Ron,
I believe there is a NEC requirement that all grounds be connected
together. I have a perimeter ground around my house with an 8 ft.
driven ground rod at every corner (total of 10), and all are connected
with a #4 bare solid wire. The wire is also connected to the utility
ground rod.
Allan,
Fine that you found it - somewhere along the line, the base K2 was
drawing excessive current and the trace acted like a fuse. I can't say
what the original problem was - maybe the power connector was plugged in
backwards, or something 'dumb' like that.
In any case, it is a simple
Bob, if you're looking for something to put in a suitcase, I would highly
recommend the Gamma HPS-1. It is VERY small and light and works well with
the K2 up to 100W. It is a switching supply with an internal supercap to
handle dynamic loads. No RF noise that I can hear and also acoustically
I think this might be the link you wanted
http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html
de ken n9vv
Craig D. Smith wrote:
Bob, if you're looking for something to put in a suitcase, I would highly
recommend the Gamma HPS-1. It is VERY small and light and works well with
the K2 up to 100W. It is a
Hi Wayne,
a while before Dayton I asked and, with the amount stress you guys were
in, understandably, didn't get an answer either that or I missed
your answer.
1) A friend of mine with a big 160m station killed his RX front end
because too much power was coming back on his beverages
Craig-
Are you sure about this link? Gamma Research seems to be a s/w house.
Bruce, NM5B
Santa Fe, NM
- Original Message -
From: Craig D. Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply
Julian. THere is no waterfall display on the K3. Part of the S-meter is
used for tuning CW, PSK and RTTY. When you are tuned in and with text
decode ON, the VFO B display then shows scrolling text of the decoded
signal.
73
Greg
AB7R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Matti,
This is not a feature in the current firmware but its being put on the
feature list for future updates.
73
Greg
AB7R
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marteinn
Sverrisson
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 7:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status of the
Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits. What is the current
status?
HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr.
Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
HANSON 425 Market Street, 26th Floor
BRIDGETT
Hi Toby,
[NOTE: I'm so busy that I'm answering about one e-mail a day, now, and
yours is it :) Normally someone else will answer, or the answers will
end up in the FAQ later on.]
1) A friend of mine with a big 160m station killed his RX front end
because too much power was coming back on
Sorry, Bruce - it should be www.gammaresearch.net
73
... Craig
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Hi Elliott
Mine has done that all along so I assume it's the norm. All is working fine,
just need the band to open up a bit.
I put the 80-30 mod on mine, also like the paddles even though some say they
don't.
Very sweet little radio.
Werner N8BB
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Good evening Group,
I seem to be having some trouble with my KPA-100. (K2 serial 4991),
Perhaps one of you could shine a light where mine don't reach.
Assembly and initial checks went OK.
At the end of the assembly, I ran into the problem.
Checks on page 46:
Junction of C77 and R11 says 90
Craig,
The old SMPS/linear supply finer points have been around a while,
and while I use a switcher here on one set with what I perceive to be no
switching noise at all, it is a different story if I re-locate to a beach
house we have where the ambient noise is virtually zero. There, the
Hopefully the manual will include a list of necessary tools.
Regards,
Dick - KA5KKT/4
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Tom,
I hate to admit this, but I had a similar problem when I built my KPA100.
The reason I hate to admit it is after troubleshooting, I found that I had
installed Q6, Q7 (the two odd shaped FETs) backwards. To make matters
worse, I broke a lead on one removing it to turn it around and ended
Howard writes ...
I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status of the
Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits. What is the current
status?
--
Howard, In his message on Monday April 30 Wayne wrote ...
The KPA800/1500 amplifiers will work with any rig,
Many thanks to all who replied to my question. What happened was that
while I was putting T4 on, I overheated the 7-8 winding and it melted
through the insulation of the 3-4 winding, therefore shorting it. So
I just rewound it and it works!
Thanks again!
73,
Kristina KE7LUC
On May 25, 2007, at 4:49 PM, Ken Kopp wrote:
At one time there was mention of a Phillips screwdriver being
the only tool required.
If one needs a list of required tools to go buy 'em in preparation
for the task I wonder if one should be undertaking the task. (:-))
I suppose there might be a
Maybe the forthcoming K3 power supply and external speaker can be combined
into a single box that can be attached to either side of the K3; thus making th
e
package the right width for the addition of some rack mount side plates.
73,
Henry - K4TMC
**
See
Hi Guys,
I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one
thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new
Weller WES51 solder station.
Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get
the temp right?
I read the manual that came with it, but it really
didn't make much sense to me,
Chris,
I find a setting of 700 degrees F about right for me.
An even better indication is to see how long it takes for solder to
flow. If you can achieve a good solder connection in 2 to 3 seconds,
that is about the right temperature. If it takes longer for the solder
to flow out to a
Clarification - LESS tools than required for the K2 :-)
No soldering iron is required at this point and probably just an
assortment of screwdrivers, small pliers, DVM etc.
We'll post a more complete tool list as we get closer to production.
73, Eric
Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
I built all my elecraft stuff with the soldering iron set at about
630-660F.
Bigger parts needed more heat, but for almost everything small,
and the .020 solder, that heat was enough to give a nice solder
connection.
I had zero solder problems on all my stuff.
Brett
N2DTS
Hi Guys,
I'm
Thanks Don and Brett,
Just the bit of info I needed.
Thanks again for the help, I'm really excited about
building my KX1. I spend some extra money to make sure
nothing goes wrong with ESD(I got a mat, wrist strip,
and Monster surge protector with coax hookups, I
figured I could use it to ground
Hi Ken and Bob...perhaps others.
It occurred to me that when some order a K3, some might want to have their
tools ready and an appropriate area prepared awaiting its arrival. Some
wouldn't want to find themselves at midnight not recalling where they had
last stored a perhaps required appliance.
Anyone know if its going to be possible to phase lock
the 2 k3 receivers?
Craig
VK3HE
Luggage?
GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
Does the K3 have a Noise Gate feature integrated into
the microphone equalizer? I ask this question not
from a ESSB perspective, I just have a noisy blower!
Craig
VK3HE
Got
a little couch potato?
They run off the same reference oscillator and are phase locked.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On May 25, 2007, at 8:34 PM, Craig ... wrote:
Anyone know if its going to be possible to phase lock
the 2 k3 receivers?
---
http://www.elecraft.com
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