Greetings to all,
I will participate in the Original QRP Contest ( 7 and 8 July) from
Luxembourg,
callsign: LX/OP5R ,
QRG: +/- 3560 , 7030 and 14060 KHz , 5 Watts ( QRP Class)
rig: K2 # 4296 ,antenna's: dipoles and 2 el beam14MHz
Will looking forward to meet other Elecrafters!
72/73's
Josef
In a message dated 6/15/07 11:12:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time, AJSOENKE
writes:
Maybe you don't remember, but 40 years ago when the ARC5s were still
around, they were used mostly by Novices who had a few legal requirements to
meet -
75Watts Max, CRYSTAL controlled xmtr freq PLus, the
Hello,
The weather is Great today in the EPA area. Sunny skies with the temps in
the 70's. Since Field Day is next week I have to get out to keep my run
alive.
I have one or two things to do at the house then I am going out to the
Appalachian Trail to work on my 800+ QSO's. All I need for
I'm buidling my K2 purchased at Dayton and found a problem when doing a parts
inventory. The Parts List designator for RP3 is far different than the part I
received: it says 806345. Does anyone know if this is a acceptable substitute?
There's nothing in the manual/Addenda nor in the
Clark, I do not have my manual for the KSB2 here but you could try measuring
the resistance between pins and see if the results agree with the values
shown in the schematic. If they do and the physical size is OK I would use
it, but you might like to get a second opinion before doing so.
73,
Ooops - KSB2 should have read K2! Sorry.
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
- Original Message -
From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Option RP3 Question
Clark, I
Clark,
You must be doing an inventory for the control board - the front panel
has no RP3 and the RF Board has the thermistor board in place of RP3.
On the R-Paks, the last 3 digits of the number on the body are
significant. In the case if CB RP3, it is 47k ohms, so look for a '473'
at the
Whoops - I failed to see the KSB2 in the subject line, so I assumed a
K2. There are 2 RP3s in the KSB2 - one mounts on the front panel board
and is a 10K r-pak (last 3 digits - 103) and there is an RP3 that mounts
on the KSB2 board of 2k in value (last 3 digits = 202).
73,
Don W3FPR
Clark
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The most common XTAL I remember was 7175 KC
right in the middle of the then novice band.
That was a daytime-only crystal.
7175 was one of Radio Moscow's frequencies. Ding DONG ding dong ding
dong ding DING dong (those who heard it will remember).
--
73,
Vic,
Donald Kerns wrote:
No:
Field Day isn't a real contest
Whereas FD has rules; and
Whereas the FD rules are found on ARRL's web site under Contests; and
Whereas we keep score and submit logs in FD; and
Whereas the sponsor publishes the standings from FD; and
Whereas those standings include
Hello,
I started calling CQ from the AT around 15:00 UTC on 7.031 MHz. I called
for about 20 minutes before I finally had someone reply to my CQ. The bands
were not in the best of shape, there was a lot of QSB and around 17:00 UTC
the QRN started to build due to the storms to the north of my
Just finished building K1 SN 2377, and it works great. Worked several JAs
this AM on 40 from here in Colorado with just a BuddiPole vertical. Seems
to be heard almost as well as my QRP K2.
Stumbled upon a hint that other K1 owners might be interested in. As you
know, the K1 needs to be propped
Are your darling wife and dear kids having trouble deciding what to give
you for Father's Day? Tell them that you'd like a 2 hour block of
quiet time on Sunday night so that you can enjoy the June edition of
Run For The Bacon!
This Sunday evening the Flying Pigs Amateur Radio Club
That's how we knew the band was open! Then we'd disassemble the xtals and
soak em in acid for a few minutes to tweak them up 3 or 5 KC. I had a whole
cigar box full ( I think I still have them) Actually I used the ARC5
receiver.
I had a transmitter but the PS was more work than I wanted
Hello,
Look for the N3EPA call on the bands next week during Field Day.
We will be at French Creek State Park in EPA and enjoying the weekend.
We will have K2's on CW and SSB. We will also have a station on VHF and UHF.
Hope to work many QRP'ers next week.
Have Fun and Enjoy!!!
72 and
Al said:
Then we'd disassemble the xtals and soak em in acid for a few minutes
to tweak them up 3 or 5 KC.
I never did that. I used to make a slurry with Comet (the cleanser,
before it went grit free) and, using an index finger on the xtal, make
circles in the slurry to grind the xtal (move
Are there any recommendations for wire rather than the suggested Wireman 541?
The manual suggests WM 541, but also says it's #26 wire. The WM site says it's
#14. I'm a bit confused there but am thinking folks have suggested going with
teflon coated wire. Also, do any of the recommended
I am having the same problem identifying components as well. I have
the larger tan bodied solenoidal but I also have a sub-minature tan
bodied solenoidal but it is colored green-brown-green.
Does anyone know what this green - brown - green one is for?
Nick Thomas - NT1A
In a message dated 6/16/07 5:05:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Then we'd disassemble the xtals and
soak em in acid for a few minutes to tweak them up 3 or 5 KC.
What sort of acid?
The only acid I know that will etch acid is hydroflouric acid, (HF) which is
Does solder eventually go bad? I'm sure the metal components don't, but I
wonder about the flux. I'm talking about a span of many years. I'm using
Multicore MM00979. What I'm using now is fresh, but I'm placing a Newark order
for other stuff and thought I might include some more solder if
On Sat, 16 Jun 2007, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
To lower the frequency, I used to make figure 8's using solder to
draw on the xtal's flat surface. Of course, you could not lower the
frequency too much that way or the xtal would stop vibrating.
I remember using the lead from the softest pencils
Never heard of it spoiling. Multicore produced some rather 'evil' stuff
at one time a few years back. The flux smells peculiar and doesn't work
well. Suspect it might be some water washoff type or some low residue
stuff. It's really lousy solder whatever they did to it! Last batch of
I just finished off a roll of Kester which was probably more than 10 years
old. It was good to the end.
Bob W2WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 9:43 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft]
Mike wrote:
Are there any recommendations for wire rather than the suggested Wireman 541?
The manual suggests WM 541, but also says it's #26 wire. The WM site says
it's #14.
Maybe there's a typo there, or maybe the Wireman's changed his numbers.
His site currently lists the 26 ga. as
In a message dated 6/16/07 9:36:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
What sort of acid?
The only acid I know that will etch acid is hydroflouric acid, (HF) which is
incredibly dangerous stuff.
Make that:
The only acid I know that will etch QUARTZ is hydroflouric
I have just completed KX1 1804. (Can't quite justify a K3 at this point but
needed something to supplement the K2...) It's a great kit and I look
forward to using it. There is one problem at the final checking stage.
Everything seems to work as expected except I can't get the 20m output to
n a message dated 6/16/2007 6:43:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Does solder eventually go bad? I'm sure the metal components don't, but I
wonder about the flux. I'm talking about a span of many years. I'm using
Multicore MM00979. What I'm using now is fresh, but I'm
Nick,
Ignore the body color on the chokes - while the body color may have been
a valid identifying characteristic at the time that phrase was put into
the manual, it is not a good indicator in the long term - the body color
can change at the whim of the component manufacturer and may change
Interesting question. Where I worked for many years we had very specific
shelf life manuals on things organic like epoxies and paints and plastics. I'm
not sure if I recall any shelf life on resin core solder. I have had rolls of
the stuff that were 25 years old before they were used up, and
I suspect that's a typo. The only place I'd use 26AWG for an antenna is a
stealth op. #10 - #16 is most recommended for HF antenna low radiation
resistance. Plus, the #26 could get iffy with a little more power and some
SWR.
Al WA6VNN
** See what's
Bernie,
First, check all the capacitor values in the Low Pass Filter area. Then
count your turns on both L1 and L2 - count the number of turns that
pass through the center of the core, counting on the outside may result
in an error of 1 turn.
You can adjust the spacing of both L1 and L2
Mike,
I have had mixed results on that question. I have had some old solder
that did not flow well. I really don't know if it was age or that the
solder was junk to begin with. I have trouble believing that solder
will 'go bad', so just try what you have and see what the results are -
if
I am in the process of assembling my K2 #6049, and as I came to the
job of attaching the tilt bail to the bottom, I remembered the recent
discussions here about the on-going problem this creates for many.
I had seen the loop wire around it and twist till it compresses both
sides enough to
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