I have K3S #11832 factory assembled/tested.
Came home, worked well for several month plus and now this...
On start, I get error message PA1. When checking the
it indicates 57C upon a cold start. When trying to calibrate the PA
temp, the available adjustment range varies between 57C to 97C which
Guys - lots of very good info here, but we are beating this into the ground.
Lets end thread thread for now in the interest of maintaining a reasonable list
SNR. ;-)
Go out and operate, experiment with antennas, including the AX1, and see what
has been discussed in this thread is best for you
Thanks, Don! 73, KQ7TJ
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Th
Thank you!
On Tue, Aug 27, 2019, 4:28 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Tom,
>
> You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place. Just
> put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
> manual. The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
Tom,
You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place. Just
put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
manual. The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
In order t
What makes you think the wire isn't doing the bulk of the radiating just
because it drags across the ground? Actual RF ground is usually some
distance below the surface, sometimes several feet.
There is a way to prove me wrong on all of this. Connect two AX1's to a
Tee connector coming dir
And I've worked all over the world with 5 or 10 watts doing it :)
Wayne
> On Aug 27, 2019, at 4:07 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>
> I'm generally walking when I use the AX1 (pedestrian mobile, or /PM). It
> isn't possible to elevate the radial under these circumstances; it drags on
> the ground.
I'm generally walking when I use the AX1 (pedestrian mobile, or /PM). It isn't
possible to elevate the radial under these circumstances; it drags on the
ground. The whip is the radiator.
Wayne
N6KR
> On Aug 27, 2019, at 3:05 PM, David Gilbert wrote:
>
>
> I'll try not to beat this into the
In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or can
I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?
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I just redid my Transmitter Alignment on my K1, using a wattmeter, which I
didn't have when I originally built it. I have removed the Antenna Tuner -
now on to redoing my TX Offset - to do that do I leave the Antenna Tuner off
and proceed, or do I reinstall the Antenna Tuner and then proceed with
I have the following available if anyone needs them:
A matched pair of 2.7 kHZ OEM SSB filters; original value $280 based on the
cost of similar filters.
Will sell for your fair offer. Contact me off the the list please.
The filters were hardly used. They are guaranteed to be as I describ
I'll try not to beat this into the ground here, but I think the physics
here is important.
As K9YC said in his reply to you, equal currents go in both directions
from the feedpoint ... to the AX1 and to the counterpoise wire. That's
simply physics, and it's true unless currents on the shiel
Yes, of course. I know how things work. And I agree with Don’s comment that
came in in another email while I was typing. That does NOT mean the vertical
element is the “counterpoise" to a long elevated wire (or more than one) a few
feet off the ground. Yes those wires may radiate, but probably
It is easy to cancel the radiation from the 'counterpoise' - use 2 equal
length wires running in opposite directions from the base. The
horizontal radiation from each will cancel, and all you have left is the
loaded vertical radiator to radiate with vertical polarization.
If they are on the g
I did not write this quoted paragraph.
John KK9A
Jim Brown K9YC wrote:
On 8/27/2019 1:04 PM, john at kk9a.com wrote:
While the K3 concept of buying a newer "upgraded" synthesizer board
for example, rather than a new radio sounds like a great idea which
will surely change the performance,
Of all things this weekend I picked up a late model K3/10 (7928) bare bones
except it has both receivers which I thought unusual. It has the 2.7, 500
and250 filters in the main receiver and only the 2.7 in the sub. Both
Synthesizers are of the older version.
Ed.. AB4IQ
-Original Message-
I don’t think I’m missing anything. You’re basically arguing for an elevated
counterpoise. Of course the AX1 needs a counterpoise. And I run an elevated
counterpoise on most of my portable vertical antennas.
My 31’ portable wire works better than an AX1 most of the time. It’s not
always co
It is always important with an Elecraft radio to pay attention to the
details - Serial number,options installed (including filters), and
upgrades installed are always the minimum essentials.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/27/2019 4:36 PM, David Bunte wrote:
It is interesting that the seller of the K3 fr
An upgraded K3 (synth, other) is far better than a mere 90% of an S. Where’s
the 10% as far as actual performance (not just a dB or two here and there) is
concerned?
Of course, you could (it was originally talked about but never offered as an
“official” upgrade, but you can order it as a part
John -
It is interesting that the seller of the K3 from that estate does
acknowledge that it is not 'really' a K3S, but justifies listing it as one
because of unspecified upgrades. It sure is important to pay attention to
details.
73 de Dave - K9FN
On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 4:05 PM wrote:
> It s
On 8/27/2019 1:04 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
While the K3 concept of buying a newer "upgraded" synthesizer board for
example, rather than a new radio sounds like a great idea which will
surely change the performance, I feel it is NOT a feasible solution, as
it generates a worthless board that is
The point you're missing is that the AX1 wants (needs) a wire
counterpoise to work very well at all, and since it's that counterpoise
wire that is doing most of the actual radiating you're better off trying
to optimize what you do with it. I don't see how that is so difficult
to understand,
Dave's observation is about how the antenna actually works, as
determined by Mother Nature, and, depending how the antenna is rigged,
he's probably right. Antennas work by carrying RF current, any end fed
radiator needs a counterpoise, which, because it's carrying the same RF
current as the end
It seems like the K3S has been grouped together with the K3. The K4
will be a different animal. Like K3ICH, I have three K3S's and with
any software I have to select K3 as the rig. The K3 has been out of
production for years. I have seen a number of K3 ads listing the radio
as K3S, here is
Not trying to start a disagreement here, but I don’t see the point.
If you want to run a wire antenna, then, good gracious, run a wire antenna.
They work pretty well portable. I carry two in my bag. But I fail to see the
rationale of using the AX1 as a “counterpoise”.
For quick low profile po
I think you'll find that for a short vertical radiator and a single
counterpoise wire the maximum radiation is in the direction of the wire. EZNEC
confirms this and I've tested it with a friend the length of California on 40 m
where with the counterpoise pointed away from him I could barely copy
Concerning the output variation, I’ve noticed that when I change bands while
the amplifier is hot, the output on the new band starts out high, then
gradually drops. This would seem to indicate that the LPF is heating, and that
the loss in the filter is several hundred Watts. That’s no big deal i
The high-value, low-temperature-coefficient trimmer capacitors leveraged in the
design are no longer available. Unfortunately we don't have staff available to
redesign the board to do it in another way, and demand is low.
The transverter interface by itself could live on a smaller board. Schemat
Greetings,
Does anyone out there have one of the special-order Inrad 700Hz CW
filters for the K3 available for sale?
If so, please reply to me offline: n...@qx.net
Tnx es 73 Bill N4LG
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I ran some comparison tests on 20M with the AX1 against my Buddi Stick
vertical when I first got it. I found the best performance was with the
AX1 on a table top tripod on a picnic table with 2 resonant radials. The
AX1 was about 1 S-unit down compared to the bigger antenna over a 22
mile ocean
FWIW .. this question is for Wayne or Eric, could the K60XV be
redesigned using currently available components, or perhaps something
that would allow easy use of the transverters?
Neil, KN3ILZ
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PX3 has been sold. Thanks for the inquiries.
Todd, WA7U
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Thanks for all the inquiries.
Todd, WA7U
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I try to be objective about my Amateur Radio purchases, but don't always
succeed.
When I was thinking about upgrading from my K3 to a K3S, I got a quote from
Elecraft for the upgrade, then I made a list of the K3S improvements and
calculated my incremental cost for the upgrade, assuming a sale o
I suspect in a strong signal Field-Day or contest environment, the K3S will
still outperform all versions of the K4 except the high-end K4HD.
73, Charlie k3ICH
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Buck
Sent: Tuesday, August 27, 2019 9:51 AM
To: elecr
Don't sell the K3 short. The basic K3 is still one of the finest radios
ever made and the difference between it and newer radios is hardly
noticeable to the human ear.
k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll 8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com
On 8/26/2019 8:56 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
I'm keeping my K3S.
N.S.
I typically run my KPA500 fan on #1 when operating FT-8. It will ramp
up to #3 when the temp reaches 60°C and during extended exchanges, but
quickly ramps back down to #2. I don't find this at all
objectionable. I've never seen the TEMP above 60°C or so. And at
#1 the fan is
Also note that K3 serial numbers ended in the 9### range. K3S serial numbers
began with 10,000.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Aug 27, 2019, at 5:53 AM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP
> wrote:
>
> I wish Elecraft the best of luck with the K4, and I am sure they will sell a
> lot of them. I
I wish Elecraft the best of luck with the K4, and I am sure they will
sell a lot of them. I am keeping my loaded and upgraded K3, serial
number 0007. I am sure the K4HD would provide slightly better
performance and probably an improvement in usability, but my K3 is
already more than good enough
Looks like a very nice and versatile tiny speaker for HAM portable as well as
telecoms, music while traveling.
BRET/N4SRN
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Dear Charlie,
be noted that even if the radio shows K3S on the front panel it does not
have to be the K3S inside.
There is possible to buy K3S "facelift" kit on eBay which allows to your K3
looks like K3S...:)
(...they say "K3S esthetic upgrade kit")
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Elecraft-K3S-Esthetic
Certainly true, and it's great for that, but a lot of the posts here
have been about people using it for more than that ... like camping and
restrictive locations. I'm just saying those folks could get more out
of it by treating it differently, and it would serve a very useful
purpose in tha
I need some help on this. I am using the KX3/PX3 as a 10meter IF for my
10.368MHz EME rig. I am also using it with the QRA64 EME communications
program. I'd like to have an audio output I can use from one unit or the other
that is not AGC controlled to use for monitoring the sun or moon noise a
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