Hi All.. Well Here is the K1 story
I was going threw the RF section taking voltage measurements (page 5 of
trouble shooting) trying to figure out why the rig was deaf. While doing so,
silly me, I would say other words but I hit the nut/bolt assembly left of
TR-3 on the bottom
I have a problem I think I solved, but would like a few comments.
I installed a new K1 2 Band Board and all things went smooth till I tried to
send with ATU
First it would send on 40 meters, then at 80 I got a short chirp and a low
buzz intread of 800 Hz sound
So I found a bigger power sup
Can some one please point me in the right direction? I am building a K1, 2
bands 3.5 and 21 MHz and have got to page 46, "Alignment and Test Part II"
All resistance and voltage measurements have been within the limits. Band 1
(3.5 MHz) is working perfectly on receive and transmit with si
My new 4-band K1 #2183 has been finished and on the air just over a week now
and has been working fine. Late yesterday when I switched to 20 meters it
was dead on that band. The other 3 bands are working normally. I am going
to have to do some troubleshooting when I get home from work today.
A fellow club member is building K1 and has reached the Rx alignment stage.
However he has an intermittent fault which gives a blank display and an audio
tone in the phones.
Any ideas where to start looking.
George. G3ICO
Sent from my iPad
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Many thanks for the replies received. My query was a bit brief as I was not
certain if I was still a registered user of the Reflector.
A bit more information. Dave, the builder, and I were doing the Rx alignment,
we had the intermittent fault which Dave had had before and he had associated
it wi
I am half-way through building my K1 # and have hit a stumbling
block. How are trimmer caps C13 and C20 installed? On the revision E
board it is not obvious (to me) which way to orient the flat side.
Dan
--
To make a difference, one must first be different.
_
I finished my K1 about a month or so ago and its been a joy to learn to use
it. The last QSO was in the Fox Hunt Thursday night on 20m. I bagged one,
but couldn't hear the other Fox. I turned the rig on this morning for the
first time since then and 20m sounded very quiet. I could only hear a
K1 has a problem at J8 pin 7. Specs should be 1.6K to 1.9K.
So far have found that J8 pin 7 to ground is zero. Tried reversing test
leads and the same.
P3 is jumpered pins 1 and 2. D15 anode to ground 195 ohms. D15 cathode to
ground
98.6 K. R36 in circuit 1.96 K . R37 in circuit 1.96 K. R34 in
Hi, with my K1-4; serial #1951 I have the following symptoms/problems. I sure
will appreciate any help given.
I have completed the assembly and did the alignments and tests. Everything
seems to be working just fine except for the following - AND I have not been
able to find where the C2A (12
Mike,
You probably shorted the diode in the RF Probe first, and that in turn
grounded the collector of Q6, and that in turn would have placed a
stress on the 12 volt input.
Did you have a fuse in your power cord? That would be the first thing
to check. Do you have 12 volts or more from the p
Bob,
If it is working with the new power supply and antenna, why do you need
further comments? - *Congratulations* on your success.
The original antenna may have been out of range of the tuner's
capability - you didn't specify the before and after antenna parameters
or situation, so all I ca
Wes,
I should think that the trouble would be found on the FL1-4 board. Check
the 20 crystal first. Measure the RF Voltages with an RF Probe and compare
to the normal ranges listed in the K1 manual.
73,
Don W3FPR
> -Original Message-
>
> My new 4-band K1 #2183 has been finished and on
George,
No immediate positive answers, but that sounds suspiciously like a bad
solder connection or an unsoldered connection somewhere.
The blank display would be associated with the Front Panel board and the
surrounding components (refer to the schematic to identify those
components) and refl
Mike... two good questions to ask! The speaker and the headphones both
sound the same, and now... I believe I'm getting signals of normal
strength (on my home tuner/antenna). I will do more comparisons with my
FT-950.
My Palstar tuner does indicate exactly 5 watts out (same as for my FT-950
se
Don, My K1 is working perfectly now. I discovered that by tightening down
the front panel screw (under the tuning knob) I had pulled the FP printed
circuit board away from the panel, and that meant the P1 and J1 connectors
weren't parallel. After reinstalling the screw loosely, then pushing the
On Wed, 12 Jul 2006 18:46:56 -0500 "Dr. Dan Swartling"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am half-way through building my K1 # and have hit a stumbling
> block. How are trimmer caps C13 and C20 installed? On the revision E
> board it is not obvious (to me) which way to orient the flat side.
Cool
I'm working on one too, and the flat sides are printed on the board
but you have to look close and use some imagination. There are also
photos of the boards finished in the back of the manual. There's also
looking at the schematic and seeing what connects to what, and
finally some have buil
Randy wrote:
> ... 20m sounded very quiet. I could only hear a handful of signals and
> all of those, as well as the noise level, were way down.
Randy, there have been a lot of reports of 20m hetrodyne crystal failures on
the KFL1-4. Can you hear a good strong 22 MHz (+/- 10 kHz) signal in ano
Thanks for suggestions from several, both on and off the list.
With an ohm-meter, I checked that K2, K4 and K6 were in the correct state
with 20 selected, and they were. I did a triple visual check of all the
20m-specific component solder joints on the filter board and they looked
fine. But I re
After following up on a hunch, I came to the conclusion that the only thing
it could be was R30 (3.3 ohm from Q6 emitter to ground). This would prevent
Q6 from conducting.
I went to the QRP parts box and found some 2.2 Ohm resistors that I keep to
bias the output transistor on my RockMites. Close
Glenn wrote:
>K1 has a problem at J8 pin 7. Specs should be 1.6K to 1.9K.
>
>So far have found that J8 pin 7 to ground is zero
Glenn,
About the **only** thing that can be causing everything you describe is a
simple unwanted solder bridge to ground (most likely from J8 pin 7 to pin 6)
on the
Ken,
Either C2 or C2A is to be installed on page 38 of the manual (at least that
is the page in Rev F). The board location is below L1 and just above RP2. -
If you installed C2, then C2A will be left over.
On your 30 meter problem - you can try listening for the 18.1 MHz oscillator
on anoth
Thank you Jim - I'll also post this to the group as well just to keep them
informed about where I'm at with testing. IF I can't get this thing aligned
completely, I may have to resort to bothering you with it "next year" when I
get back to Mobile.
I did the following tests and re-checked the t
I have just installed a KAT1 in a K1 with 4-bands filter board. The KAT1
bridge adjustment and power calibration were performed without difficulty.
The K1 (serial number 25xx) has been used without any problems and the KAT1
has been used previously with a different 2-bands K1. Using Tune and te
David wrote:
> ...I discovered that by tightening down the front panel screw
> (under the tuning knob) I had pulled the FP printed circuit
> board away from the panel, and that meant the P1 and J1
> connectors weren't parallel.
That does not seem normal at all. My K1 front panel does not
flex as
David,
Check the number of lockwashers you used under the Front Panel standoffs
against the number specified in the manual. The ones used between the
board and the standoff are really spacers (adding to the standoff
dimension) and are critical to keeping everything in alignment.
I would not
I wrote:
> My K1 front panel does not flex as the flat-head front panel
> mounting screw is tightened, however much I try.
That should have been "My K1 front panel *PCB* does not flex..."
73,
Mike / KK5F
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Ray,
I would be highly suspicious of a relay that is not working properly.
Whether that is the result of a poorly or unsoldered connection or
because the relay is really bad is to be determined. That relay just
was not operated on the other bands, but it happened to try to be
operated on 15 m
Ämne: Re: [Elecraft] K1 - problem with KAT1
Ray,
I would be highly suspicious of a relay that is not working properly.
Whether that is the result of a poorly or unsoldered connection or because
the relay is really bad is to be determined. That relay just was not
operated on the other bands, but i
I purchased a used 4-band K1 from another ham which worked well until the
weather began to warm up when I started to get the dreaded "PLo" errors and 0.1
watts out.
I ordered the replacement cap kit, and the removal of the old caps and
installation of the new went smoothly.
Now I am having tro
Thanks in advance for any advice...
Symptom:
Without filter board installed, unit powers up and passes LED tests. Absolutely
nothing appears at any time on the LCD display. I thought I might be having a
display problem until for giggles and grins, I popped in the filter board and
powered up.
Hi there,
I have a problem with my K1-4 on 30/40m. First I have to say that it was
working before and I don't know what happened.
Here is what I know:
- Power out on 15/20 is ok.
- Power out on 30/40 is 0.1W, probably less
- I am losing the signal between DRV (1.5Vpp) and PA (0.1Vpp). Measured w
Problem solved thanks to the prompt response from Elecraft's customer
support, Gary AB7MY!
Turned out to be a defective keyer jack. The DOT line was partially
shorted(measured 50 ohms) to Gnd inside the jack causing the K1 to want to
go into Transmit mode. Going into transmit mode was causing t
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