I'm pretty sure terminal resistance is supposed to be 0.03 ohms so a normal
ohmmeter won't tell you much... How about spin the motor in neutral with a
(fused) 12V battery? Any signs of arcing on the commutator?
-Ben
On Dec 27, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>
Amen, Lee. If quiet cars are truly the problem, the requirement should be
universal. Singling out EV's certainly has the appearance - even if not the
intent - of hostility and intentionally limiting their appeal. I tend to
believe the current action is merely a case of narrow-mindedness, but
On Jan 20, 2016, at 11:13 AM, Bill Dube via EV wrote:
> If you are planning on plugging in an EV daily into a 120 volt outlet, you
> would likely want to eventually change it out for a "hospital grade" type
> receptacle. These are really designed to take constant, daily,
Indeed - the Bolt display appears to me to indicate how the energy has been
spent in an almost pie chart (pink, purple, green). The pink icon (arrow)
suggests driving energy, the purple icon (snowflake) suggests climate control
and the green (battery) I guess might be 12V. If my reading is
Hi Jay,
I think your approach is good. Some chargers (Elcon, at least) let your BMS
throttle charge current with an external voltage signal. If your charger
supports this, you could try wiring up a comparator and a flip-flop to latch
the signal at 0A when you hit your target voltage at 30A.
I agree we should incentivize low-pollution vehicles, but this is is actually a
punitive road use fee. Georgia's gas tax is $.075/gallon. If you drive 16k
miles/year (US average) at 22MPG (rough average accounting for older cars),
you're paying about $55 toward road maintenance. The $300 EV
Really? I was pretty sure the title of first megawatt all-electric race car
went to the Maniac Mazda over a decade ago...
-Ben
On Apr 1, 2015, at 9:50 PM, Ben Goren via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
Seems reasonably legit. Nothing about it seems unreasonable.
Lots of great info on this thread! I was actually revisiting the literature on
this recently myself. Although my 914 is garaged for the winter, it happens to
be at home this year (with its transmission in pieces), and I wanted to top off
the battery in case we lost power in all the crazy
A lot of charities and even public radio stations accept old cars as donations.
Shop around to see if your car might be of value to one of them.
-Ben
On Jan 13, 2015, at 8:04 PM, Bill Dennis via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
I didn't have any takers on my Starter EV, Just Add Batteries offer.
I run a 9 ADC from a 53-cell LiFePO4 pack (170V nominal); I've only put about
5000 miles on the car, but no issues so far. That said, I've had issues with
rotor balance, so I tend to operate at lower RPM's, which means I'm limiting
the DC voltage across the motor.
-Ben
On Jan 9, 2015, at
Hi Bruce,
First, let me say that I enjoy your newswires and appreciate all the effort you
put into the EV community.
...but I really don't think some idiot crashing a Tesla is list-worthy news.
-Ben
On Dec 3, 2014, at 4:37 AM, brucedp5 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
I steer clear anyway. They can scratch the heck out of your finish. And
windows.
-Ben
On Oct 13, 2014, at 3:43 AM, brucedp5 via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
http://scholarsandrogues.com/2014/10/06/leaf-owners-beware-the-gas-station-car-wash-renewable-journal-for-1062014/
Leaf owners –
I would think overhead catenary lines would actually be cheaper, and one could
do that study without building a prototype...
On Aug 15, 2014, at 3:06 AM, Martin WINLOW via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
For your hybrid application, I'd go with the AC. One word: regen -- without
it to recharge the battery, hybrid mode is of little benefit; better to just
disengage the motor altogether.
I get decent performance out of my Porsche 914 with a single 9 DC motor in 3rd
gear (although it tops out
Too bad A123 went under. Their cells would have been PERFECT.
You could consider the EnerDel high-power modules carried by evolve electrics
(and possibly others, but I haven't seen them elsewhere). They're more
expensive than CALB/Thundersky but better suited to your application. 32Ah/44V
People talk in amp-hours because it's easy and/or they're being sloppy.
Batteries are sold in standardized packages (1 cell @ 3.6V for lithium, 3 or 6
cells at 6V or 12V for lead) at which amp-hours is the metric used to
differentiate different capacities. But when you build a big series
I know it's not a 'true' EV, but definitely don't forget the noble Chevy Volt.
At just $34k before tax credit, it provides decent EV range (unlike the other
PIH), decent performance, a coddled battery that will last forever, actual back
seat and trunk space (unlike the puny Leaf), and
, May 24, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Ben Apollonio via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:
On May 23, 2014, at 9:06 PM, Michael Ross michael.e.r...@gmail.com wrote:
No, there is no economy of scale with the low numbers they are building.
That is a fact.
Not on the electric drivetrain
How exactly is it that Fiat can't produce a teensy car with a tiny battery for
less than $46k when small (i.e. lacking economies of scale) upstart Tesla is
able to rake in 25% gross margins on a massive, high-performance luxury car
with 3x the battery that starts at 70k (which puts the
You say that like it's past tense! I still have this on my electric Porsche
914, though only for lack of funds/time...
-Ben
On May 13, 2014, at 7:08 PM, Jan Steinman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
From: Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
It had another training system - where you
You, sir, have just described the battery gauge Tesla uses (though the display
is a tad fancier). Except they added tick marks every 10% for extra
convenience.
I find the 'ignorant masses' are capable of learning. They may not (and very
likely won't) fully understand what a kilowatt-hour is,
With all due respect to Lee and his expertise in so many areas, I believe this
is incorrect.
Lithium Ion has a nearly unity coulometric charge/discharge efficiency.
Although high discharge rates depress the voltage more, and therefore cause
your battery to reach empty sooner, you haven't
Maybe probably NOT.
A synchronous non-isolated DC-DC buck converter will act as a boost in reverse
if voltage is applied to its output (unless the designer has taken adequate
protections against it), but the reverse 'output' is unregulated; it gets
limited only by the weakest component when it
I still have an inductive unit kicking around after my T-Rex died a year and a
half ago. Contact me off-list if you're interested.
-Ben
On Mar 28, 2014, at 4:48 AM, J Bills jbillsn...@flickfx.com wrote:
Hi - I was able to score an old DCP Raptor 600 and want to replace my
Curtis squealer.
Define aren't showing full capacity. Are you seeing a low voltage (it
naturally drops after charge)? Or variations in measured total capacity? Or
something else altogether?
-Ben
On Mar 13, 2014, at 1:33 AM, Peakfoto Digital Photo Still n Video
k...@peakfoto.com wrote:
I had my cell
I doubt yank and crush will happen again. Tesla is too much of a threat for
anyone not to want to keep their EV program active, even if it's only a
contingency plan. My bigger fear would be Toyota sucking market share and
investment away from EV's when they start shipments of their Fool Cell
Aww man! If I had any use for an EV battery at the moment, I'd be all over
that. But my 17kWh of ThunderSkys (at 2x the price) are holding up quite
well...
-Ben
On Mar 4, 2014, at 5:11 PM, Danpatgal danpat...@yahoo.com wrote:
All saw that EVTV is selling the old Better Place packs, shipped
As far as I know, Tesla actually pioneered that approach to regen, but I've
seen many reviews of the i3 where people think it's a novel idea. At first I
didn't like the feel, but after further thought, it's far superior than the
Prius model (light regen to simulate engine drag, plus additional
Wow, that's a dumb requirement by the EPA! I don't think I would buy a
production EV that didn't let me select a max charge less than 100%. I have
far too much experience with the effect on battery life, and I buy my cars to
last, not for a 3-year lease/upgrade cycle.
-Ben
On Jan 14, 2014,
Ditto. My 914 can go 60mi on 80% of my 17kWh pack.
Gorgeous car, though. If the batteries are actually healthy, it's a good find.
You definitely couldn't build an equivalent conversion for that price, even if
you had the donor already.
-Ben
On Nov 25, 2013, at 9:09 AM, Martin WINLOW wrote:
Indeed! I believe low charging voltages are, at least in part, responsible for
LiFePO4's amazing calendar/cycle life. Also, I am told Tesla's Model S gives
owners the option to charge conservatively, for life at the expense of range,
or aggressively for a long trip. Another part of Tesla's
Bob Batson up at EV America in Wolfeboro, NH has one you can rent. I think
it's like $30/week...or month...or something. They ship it to you. That's
what I did. Nice hex crimper. They even included a cable cutter.
Cheers!
-Ben
On Oct 7, 2013, at 5:49 PM, L. Chris Hager wrote:
I'm
Agreed.
I never take my 54 100Ah (Thunder Sky) cells past 80% DoD, but that's enough
for 60 miles range when driving somewhat conservatively in my little Porsche
914, and I haven't had any issues. I do notice voltage sag starting to
increase, but not enough to be of concern. I turned off
Well, it's spring again in New England, which means I have the 914 back on the
road, freshly upgraded with a Z1K, an Elcon DC/DC, and several tweaks. I've
started experimenting with different driving techniques and made a few
surprising discoveries.
The first is that my car actually seems to
From one Massachusetts EV-er to another, congrats!
My own was 9 years in the making. Also, with a Z2K, I think you may have
grabbed the title of peppiest EV in the state -- unless someone here bought a
Tesla, of course :) Seriously, how come everyone out here in the northeast
builds
Does anyone know the 'do not go below' voltage at which the anode starts to
break down in LiFePO4? I know it's somewhere at or below 2.0V but that's about
all.
My car is parked for the winter. The other day, I went to fire it up check
on the batteries and my BMS refused to unlock it. Some
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