Supposedly g05 is nearly identical and can be used. I know it’s a lot cheaper
than g48.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 8, 2023, at 1:33 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Yes I noticed it was kinda pee color but no idea what it is, could be the
> universal stuff. I don’t recall a
Yes I noticed it was kinda pee color but no idea what it is, could be the
universal stuff. I don’t recall adding any to it. But whatever the Zerex stuff
is would be good.
--FT
Sent from iFōn
> On Feb 8, 2023, at 12:11 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Planning to change the coolan
Planning to change the coolant in the '04 E500 just so I know how old it is.
FCP Euro is recommending G48 and Zerex website recomends G40 but also lists G48
as "compatible"
Not sure what's in there now, at a glance it looks like yellow (G05?) or green
or a mix? Going to suck some out and see.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/car-maintenance/coolant-testing-with-a-multimeter/
I'm not sure I buy their contention using a multi-meter as described can
show when there is corrosion in a cooling system, but I thought you guys
would like to see it.
Craig
mail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Color
I don’t think so. The timing belt was changed right before I bought it and the
leak is up front there somewhere. I don’t think that is where head gasket leaks
manifest themselves is it? (2004 Outback 2.5)
Bob R
___
htt
I don’t think so. The timing belt was changed right before I bought it and the
leak is up front there somewhere. I don’t think that is where head gasket leaks
manifest themselves is it? (2004 Outback 2.5)
Bob R
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 2, 2019, at 10:58 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes
wrote:
>I’m living with a annoying coolant leak
Head gasket?
Rick
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Well, correct Subaru coolant is green. I’m living with a annoying coolant leak
(until I get several days off in a row) that has caused me to go through a
gallon of coolant in three weeks. I may have to live with this another three
weeks so I rather just run some less expensive but correct coolan
The "universal" stuff is very pale, almost clear, maybe a very light
green tint. Makes it hard to know what mix you have.
--FT
On 1/2/19 12:03 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:
Generally, coolant is categorized by color, no? For example, is all green
coolant the same? Is all peach colored
Generally, coolant is categorized by color, no? For example, is all green
coolant the same? Is all peach colored coolant the same?
Bob R
Sent from my iPhone
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If your radiator has tanks on the ends, and a pressure cap on a separate
tank, then it's an expansion tank, not an overflow tank.
On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:57 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Not sure if there is such a beast on my w123...
>
> On Mon, May 21, 2
The overflow hose/tube just goes down to the wheel well in your car. The EPC
refers to it as a “De-aeration tube”.
-D
> On May 21, 2018, at 4:57 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:
>
> Not sure if there is such a beast on my w123...
>
> On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 4:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
>
Not sure if there is such a beast on my w123...
On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 4:47 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Not so.
>
> There is an overflow tank, but it’s inside the right side fender behind
> the splash shield. The expansion tank allows the expansion and contract
Not so.
There is an overflow tank, but it’s inside the right side fender behind the
splash shield. The expansion tank allows the expansion and contraction of the
coolant, and is part of a closed system. The overflow tank is connected to the
filler neck where the pressure cap is located and co
Oh. I call that the overflow tank
On Mon, May 21, 2018 at 3:42 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
>
> - D
>
> > On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
He’s talking about the expansion tank for the cooling system.
- D
> On May 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Do you mean radiator??
>
> On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
>> There was a big debate on pe
Do you mean radiator??
On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 9:02 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124
> gasser coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
>
> Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in
There was a big debate on peach parts about this, some claim the 124 gasser
coolant tank will work just fine in the 124 diesel cars.
Take the tank from your cabriolet, try it in the SDL. Side benefit: no one
(Regina) can drive / wreck the cabriolet
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95
Well the sdl tank is different for sure. Not sure about the difference on a 124.
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 20, 2018, at 7:37 PM, OK Don via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> What's different between the gassers and the Diesel tanks? Maybe next to
> nothing
>
> On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 6:29 PM, Kale
What's different between the gassers and the Diesel tanks? Maybe next to
nothing
On Sun, May 20, 2018 at 6:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> What is the deal with coolant tanks? I have started looking for parts for
> this SDL I picked up and want to repl
What is the deal with coolant tanks? I have started looking for parts
for this SDL I picked up and want to replace the coolant tank on it
since this one is cruddy and you can't see the level in the tank. I
also want to replace the one on my 95 E300. I thought these were
cheap? I can't find
I think the coolant level sensor has begun failing in my 95 124.131.
The light in the dash periodically comes on, but the coolant level in the
overflow tank is fine.
Anyone else suffer this failure? Is there also a circuit in the instrument
cluster, similar to the oil level sensor, that might
If you had some visibility as a seller of used parts these days, I would
have contacted you. You're a tough person to get a hold of, and you
haven't said a lot about selling used parts around here in some time.
Got any 140s with black interiors?
Dan
On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 4:14 PM, Kaleb C. Str
I guess I should put some of my 140 clusters on eBay, I probably would have
sold you one for 50
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 28, 2013, at 2:50 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
> Yeah. I saw the guy was parting out the car, so I asked him if he wanted to
> sell the cluster. He told me to make him an offe
Yeah. I saw the guy was parting out the car, so I asked him if he wanted to
sell the cluster. He told me to make him an offer, so I told him $100. I
didn't hear from him for like a week, so I figured he was offended by my offer
(eBay units are going for around $150-$200).
I dropped him a not
soundslike a great price for that cluster!
LarryT
91 300D
On 4/28/2013 10:05 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:
I have been struggling with the coolant temperature gauge on the S500. It's
been wonky for a while, and driving me nuts in the process. Typical behavior
would be for it to show the coolant tem
On Sun, 28 Apr 2013 10:42:25 -0400 "WILTON" wrote:
> 'Nother ATTABOY!
>
> Wilton
Indeed!
> - Original Message -
> From: "Dan Penoff"
>
> Voilá! I now have a working coolant temperature gauge. Amazing.
> What's even better is to see that in a mid 80F ambient with the AC on I
> am r
'Nother ATTABOY!
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Dan Penoff"
To: "Mercedes List"
Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 10:05 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Coolant Gauge Fix
I have been struggling with the coolant temperature gauge on the S500. It's
been wonky for a
I have been struggling with the coolant temperature gauge on the S500. It's
been wonky for a while, and driving me nuts in the process. Typical behavior
would be for it to show the coolant temperature as the engine arms up, then
when it approaches operating temperature, BOING! The needle goes
> G05 is the genuine stuff, it's exactly the same. The new blue stuff
> is different I guess..
>
The current 15 year coolant (my 2008 C300 uses this) has to be different
than the previous GO-5 compatible stuff.
RLE
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For ne
I bought meself an brake fluid tester a while back, twas sitting on the
counter of the spare parts place, tempting me with the promise of
telling me how much water is in the juice and sold itself by saying that
if you buy me you can test your brakey fluid and know how much
resistance there is.
> ...I remembered him saying MB coolant (G-05) was good for 2 years.
> Regular
> coolant good for one...
>
MB sez if the coolant is the right stuff, change it every three years.
Modern MB change interval is fifteen yes fifteen years. With periodic
examination, of cuss.
Brake fluid is every tw
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 21:59:49 -0400 (EDT) relng...@aol.com wrote:
> > ...Two years is the recommended change interval for the proper
> > MB/G-05 coolant, .Allan..
> >
> Not any more.
What is the recommended change interval now?
Craig
___
http://www.o
> ...Two years is the recommended change interval for the proper MB/G-05
> coolant, .Allan..
>
Not any more.
RLE
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To Uns
Since the last flush, I'm not getting any heavy deposits. Instead I'm
getting lots of fine powered rust. I pulled the heater core hoses and the
bright orange rust that was built up on the heater core and inside the
hoses is completely gone! :-)
Looks like another flush similar to the last one sh
Yes auto parts stores have them too.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 3, 2012, at 12:56 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
> Peter Hertzing wrote:
>> When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
>> correct size for the hose - and should be fine.
>
> Like this?
> http://www.amazon.
: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
work)
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Yes - 4.0. The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator. I like your idea of modifying one of the h
Peter Hertzing wrote:
When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine.
Like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-AFKIT0-Universal-Flush-Fill/dp/B000CCFY5W
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
When we did this we never had issues again - jsut make sure the it is the
correct size for the hose - and should be fine. For arguments sake - you
could make the Radiator the highest point by bleeding the system on
jackstands as high as you can safely get the front of the jeep.
Peter
On Sun, Jun
Yes - 4.0. The heater core hoses do run at valve cover level, higher than
the radiator. I like your idea of modifying one of the heater core hoses,
but I am hesitant to splice hoses because in my mind more fittings mean
more potential sources of leaks and failures. I'm hoping most/all of the
air
Sorry - coming on to this thread a little late - but guessing were talking
about a cherekee with a 4 liter. It is a very difficult cooling system to
bleed - for some unknown reason - a heater hose runs across teh top of the
engine - best I can remember. The only way I have every been abel to
prop
with a garden hose until only clear
> water
> >> came out. I had an old trigger-style hose nozzle that fit inside the
> small
> >> hoses nicely with the aid of a hose clamp. Fresh coolant (less than 3
> >> years
> >> old) should inhibit corrosion.
>
with the aid of a hose clamp. Fresh coolant (less than 3
>> years
>> old) should inhibit corrosion.
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
>> On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
>> Sent: Sat
heater cores seem to collect crud, regardless of where it originates
from. until you have an effective flush of that area (read; under
pressure), it's hard to eliminate that as an area of concern... and if
you didn't do your fill with the heater set full-on high so that the
water was circulatin
urday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
> work)
>
> Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What
> came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns ru
old) should inhibit corrosion.
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Brian Toscano
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant question (related to my Jeep cooling system
Did the impeller rot off the old water pump?
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Jun 2, 2012, at 14:45, Brian Toscano wrote:
> I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
> spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to bl
Most likely your heater core is copper, or possibly aluminum.
I had a similar situation on a W126 (300SD) I once owned.
When I bought it the owner had just put a radiator on it within the =
year. When I inspected the coolant it was brown and rusty colored. =
Figuring that it just needed a good
My Dodge heater core wouldn't put out any heat at all. I backflushed it
with a garden hose for ten or fifteen minutes and the heater then worked
well until it went to the crusher.
Gerry
From: "Brian Toscano"
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed
the
Ernest,
I have thought the same thing. After I replaced the thermostat/flushed the
system I poured water in the upper radiator hose (connected to the
radiator) until water came out the thermostat housing. What I'm not clear
on is how does a heater core get rusty? Are they made of steel or iron
since your observation is that most of the crap is in the heater hoses,
odds are that your cooling system isn't getting fully filled, and the
air in the system is rising to the highest point (the heater core) and
causing corrosion there.
replacing the heater core in an XJ isn't fun.
i'
That is what I am thinking.
Some of the black grit I've found in the coolant may be the old head gasket
from when I paid a mechanic to R/R the head. The Jeep had a weird severe
misfiring problem that turned out to be low compression from faulty exhaust
valves. I believe it was isolated to 2000-2
Air causes the rusting, so maybe if the whole thing is not absolutely
full of coolant then whatever is left exposed will rust. That would
most likely be at the top.
--R
On 6/2/12 2:45 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and
I considered that, but here's the kicker... Only the lower hose has the
spring and if I try to clean it, it returns to black which seems to be the
way it came from the factory. I don't think the spring itself is rusting -
it seems to be a surface that rust collects, but that's it. I didn't try
to
Maybe those springs?
--R
On 6/2/12 1:51 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is
Last night I drained the coolant from the drain plug on the radiator. What
came out first was bright green. After a little bit, it turns rusty brown,
and then turned to dirty coolant. This was just draining. Likewise, what
is in the expansion tank is typically rust colored and when I poured cle
I considered that the dark radiator has an effect on the coolant. The
bright green when in the radiator is almost clear in a coolant tester.
However, what's in the expansion tank is darker. The original problem has
been fixed. The flushing I did definitely helped. I'm not expecting 100%
perfec
Remove a sample from the radiator and another from expansion tank to compare
side by side; it's awfully hard to judge color inside a dark radiator.
Did you fix the original problem?
I think your flushing method failed.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
___
__
I don't think there is an oil leak into the coolant. There is a small
amount of black stuff in the expansion tank, but it doesn't look like any
oil in coolant I've ever seen. It settles to the bottom, unlike oil which
would normally float, and the expansion tank rinses out with tap water.
On Sun
On Sun, 27 May 2012 18:43:43 -0600 Brian Toscano
wrote:
> I don't think it is something to be concerned about, as it doesn't
> affect the operability of the vehicle, but I don't understand why the
> coolant seems to separate. I am wondering if the dirtier coolant is
> somehow "lighter" or "less
About a month ago I was in town and rolled the windows down. I smelled
antifreeze and someone pulled up next to me and said you're leaking
coolant. My coolant jug was overflowing, but my dash gauge was spot on. I
got it to a nearby Wal Mart where I could buy supplies and rent a car
nearby.
I re
Streib
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Dimitri Seretakis writes:
Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking
for trouble.
I don't even think my W123 has a drain bolt. Not
My '81 300TD had a little rubber/plastic plug thing, I think my '83 240D has a
metal bung of some sort...
-Curt
Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 20:08:14 -0400
From: Allan Streib
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant change Q
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charse
I don't believe I've ever had a problem with an MB coolant drain in
the radiator. Most W123s will have a plastic plug with a screwdriver
slot and an o-ring seal, they don't need to be super tight and don't
break.
The one on the 280 SE is a standard "winged plug" sort of drain, but
it was
Dimitri Seretakis writes:
> Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking
> for trouble.
I don't even think my W123 has a drain bolt. Not sure about the W116
have not changed it yet. I always just pull the lower hose.
In general be very careful with any threaded fittin
Definitely pull the lower hose. Messing with the drain bolt is asking for
trouble.
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 31, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
That is way too practical.
Then I won't have cause to post more questions about how to repair the bung
that I twisted out of my rad, or whe
That is way too practical.
Then I won't have cause to post more questions about how to repair the
bung that I twisted out of my rad, or where the best place to buy a new
rad is etc.
I might have to try to start a new oil thread.
Randy
On 31/10/2011 2:16 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
Brillia
Brilliant. Now why didn't I think of that.
On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:37 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Pull the lower hose.
>
>
> I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been intending
>> to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been waiting for me,
>> pa
Pull the lower hose.
I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been
intending to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been
waiting for me, patiently, I hope.
On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils
where one must crawl under instead of standi
I need to change out the coolant in my 76 115 300D. I have been
intending to do it ever since I bought the car and it has been waiting
for me, patiently, I hope.
On Saturday, I changed the oil. A lovely job on these old devils where
one must crawl under instead of standing upright with one's $
> And yes, the Coscast head is aluminum alloy...
>
Then you should be using GO-5. Particularly if you are not following the
recommended change interval. At your peril.
RLE
>
>
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To
: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 1:31 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak
The cap on my exp tank was bad and I replaced it a few weeks ago - was
hoping that might be causing the leak but no such
cedes Discussion List"
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak
Yeah they do that too. As someone else already mentioned, the radiator
cap on the tank can look ok and cause problems. If the coolant only goes
down when you drive, look at the tank and cap. If it goes down while
setting, look at the WP, h
quot;Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 9:57 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant Leak
My guess is that you have a water pump seal weeping. Most of my 603s have
done this. On the first one, I did replace the WP and it stopp
Thanks Craig - I never woulda thunk it! ;-)
OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net
--
From: "Craig McCluskey"
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 8:30 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Yeah they do that too. As someone else already mentioned, the
radiator cap on the tank can look ok and cause problems. If the
coolant only goes down when you drive, look at the tank and cap. If
it goes down while setting, look at the WP, hoses etc.
I went through a rach of bad Radiator caps
The mystery leak in my son's 603 300D turned out to be a crack in the
coolant tank just under a fitting on the side facing the front. Only saw it
when it got bad enough to see dripping under the car. Saw a small stream
squirting forward when up to temp and under pressure. Liquid steel cured it.
On
: "LarryT"
To:
Subject: [MBZ] Coolant Leak
Message-ID: <14b9268fede0438d8bdaecc0125b7...@laptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Hello -
My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quart of coolant every 2 months or so.
Do these
sample this week and see what the analysis says.
Thanks ya'll -
OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net
--
From: "Peter Frederick"
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:16 PM
To: "Mercedes
On Sat, 16 Jan 2010 18:59:58 -0500 "LarryT" wrote:
> I'll send in a sample this week and see what the analysis says.
That's a superb idea. I even know where you can send it:
> OilAnalysis Time?
> Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
> www.youroil.net
:-)
Craig
_
Check the evaporator drain for coolant, and pressure test the system
-- those plastic tanks have several failure modes that are not
obvious except that the cap won't seal. Test the cap, too.
Although it's cold outside, it's possible that you are getting
coolant "burping" into the expansion
is week and see what the analysis says.
Thanks ya'll -
OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net
--
From: "Peter Frederick"
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 6:16 PM
To: "Mercedes Discussion
Head cracks will lead to coolant loss, but also hard cold starts with
lots of white smoke and very rough running on startup. White smoke
smelling of glycol will persist until the engine warms up.
Coolant leaks from a bad head gasket are also known -- usually out
the exhaust side.
CHEKC T
yea, they do sometimes have head gasket problems but its usually oil
burning very badly, as in, blowing out the back. In that case, the
gasket blows out between #1 and the timing chain area. Never see one
burning coolant though.
LarryT wrote:
Hello -
My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quar
LarryT.
I Have two 190DT's, essentially the same engine. The white (Bent) one
blew the gasket at 120Kmi and I think the Blue one is going. Oil is
decorating the RF of the engine about where the chain tensioner is.
There is anecdotal evidence that they blow when some idiot (me) goes
over 161kph
Hello -
My 91 300D 2.5T needs about a 1/2 quart of coolant every 2 months or so.
Do these engines have a history of head gasket leaks? I suspect the water
pump is weeping a little after 170K miles or so. I have a new pump but
haven't been sufficiently "moved" to replace it.But soon it
they'll let me
bring my dog inside...
-Curt
Date: Sat, 02 Jan 2010 16:52:15 -0500
From: Allan Streib
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Curt Raymond writes:
> Up here NAPA is the most expensi
Curt Raymond writes:
> Up here NAPA is the most expensive FLAPS around...
NAPA and CarQuest are more costly than the McParts stores (Advance,
AutoZone, PepBoys, O'Reilly, etc.) but they still stock mostly decent
quality stuff.
The McParts stores parts, in my experience, are bottom of the line.
from Rusty... Nothing against him, I've had it for
probably 8 or 9 months and should have tried to put it on before now.
-Curt
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 16:22:36 -0700
From: Craig McCluskey
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant leak fixed
Message-ID: <20100101162
Sounds like my experience... Its quite snowy here today, enough that
snowmobiling too precedence over cars ;)
I'll "work from home" Monday and do the deed...
-Curt
Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 16:58:05 -0600
From: Mountain Man
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coo
Iirc, one of them is 1000mm long and the other is 1037mm long. If yo
dig in the EPC, there's a footnote about which one is earlier, which
one is later, and what VIN or engine S/N is the breakpoint.
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Jan 1, 2010,
On Fri, 1 Jan 2010 14:14:33 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
wrote:
> Worst news of the day was that the replacement belt I'd bought (forever
> ago) for the alternator was too small, a good inch under the old one, so
> I couldn't possibly get it into place. The old one is pretty poor but I
> got the Car
Curt wrote:
> Anyway its not a terrible job and the little hose was just about to really
> blow so I'm glad I got in there. Worst news of the day was that the
> replacement belt I'd bought (forever ago) for the alternator was too small, a
> good inch under the old one, so I couldn't possibly get
Christmas morning we piled into the 240D to go to the in-laws, got a couple
miles away and realized we'd forgotten some things so turned around and came
home. In the driveway I noticed the grill steaming. The little hose just below
the thermostat housing was leaking...
Today I finally got a cha
So Christmas morning we headed to the in-laws in my 240D with plans to go from
there to my parent's house (about 150 miles away). Got about 5 miles from the
house and realized we'd forgotten something, got home and went to the house but
realized something was wrong with the car.
You know that
Thanks Phillip!
I'll see what FLAPS has tomorrow.
-Curt
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 20:24:27 -0600
From: Fmiser
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <20091211202427.efba44d2.fmi...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> Curt
> Curt Raymond wrote:
> Its the first thing to try anyway.
Rusty sells it for about $15.
My records show it's part number 900-271-042012
and is applicable for OM616 and OM617 engines with new style,
vertical thermostat, with bypass and "snowman" seal.
> Anybody know the size? I'd rather buy a p
Yes, good test. Then shut off the engine, and take a mirror and look
at the underside of the water pump. Another method is to get all 4
wheels up on blocks, then crawl under with a small flashlight, and
look for a stream of water.(this can be done with the engine
running. )
The short ho
IV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310"
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Message-ID:
<1370e90cffd2ac4b8cb65267ba10c4b801db9...@naeachrlez02v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
As I recall
z.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 8:49 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Coolant loss
Its the first thing to try anyway.
Anybody know the size? I'd rather buy a piece of hose first than yank it
and take the shredded nasty remnan
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