I have always found MB rotors to be good for two sets of pads, never more.
They are designed for minimum weight for handling purposes, and are inexpensive
and easy to replace.
Measure for minimum thickness, or just do what I do -- when there is a
noticeable lip on the outer edge of the rotor,
You should feel 2 slight drag areas per revolution when turning the tar
by hand with the wheel in the air. These 2 drag areas are audible
also. This is the way it should be.
If the brakes drag all the way around, it could indicate swollen hoses,
brake pushrod misaligned or other issues.
Neat about the design wobble. Didn't know that. So the slight binding with
car in the air could be normal.
These rotors are pretty old. I dont think I have ever changed them and the
car just turned over 200k.
Anyway I dont know what to say except they were fine and then they weren't.
On Sat,
Rotors are machined to have a slight wobble. This is to push the pads
back so they don't drag all the time when the hydraulic pressure is
released. There is no other method of retracting the pads on disk
brakes. Drum brakes have springs. Disk brakes don't.
The worst brake rotors that I've
Hmm. I've been driving MBs for twenty years and have made a few hard stops
without ever having had a rotor actually warp. A few minor hard spots, etc,
but never a really measurably bent one. This includes a major test of the
anti-lock brakes on the old 300D when I very narrowly avoided a
> On December 29, 2018 at 3:42 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks I have read that document. My rotors are still warped. I dont think
> any amount of bedding in would have prevented it. I can mic them; maybe
> they are super worn.
So, the hub runs true, there's nothing
Thanks I have read that document. My rotors are still warped. I dont think
any amount of bedding in would have prevented it. I can mic them; maybe
they are super worn.
On Sat, Dec 29, 2018, 11:52 AM fmiser via Mercedes > Peter wrote:
>
> > The cure for "warped" rotors after hard stops is to
> Peter wrote:
> The cure for "warped" rotors after hard stops is to creep slowly
> forward immediately after stopping.
After having correctly bedded the pads after installing new rotors.
Here is a good reference article.
Yes it basically aligns the molecular structure with the load path.
There is a pretty good vid of some guys making what look like connecting
rods: https://vimeo.com/98797243
Aluminum must be shedloads easier, but the same principle would apply. Less
material can be used, so the wheel becomes
Thanks Peter. Yes I am aware of the hard spot theory. It may even be true.
But when I put the new wheels on we had the car in the air and the rotor is
warped so badly on the left front that it binds on every revolution. So
anyone who says rotors don't warp and that the vibration is all from
Good info at forging.org but still no pictures
https://www.forging.org/about/forgings-where-why-how
The analogy of oak vs chipboard is a fairly good one, But hard maple vs
chipboard is better. The author has not done strength testing on oak.
The strength of fast growing oak is actually higher
I was looking for electron microscope photos of the grain, but have not
found any yet.
https://itstillruns.com/forged-vs-cast-aluminum-wheels-6018344.html
http://www.trumotornews.com/battle-of-the-wheels-forged-alloys-vs-cast-alloys/
This is not about wheels, but has a better explanation:
Forged. It rearranges the molecules so that the metal is stronger.
Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote on 12/29/18 6:54 AM:
Which is better, cast or forged?
-
Max
Charleston SC
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives
The cure for "warped" rotors after hard stops is to creep slowly forward
immediately after stopping. This keeps the pad contact time on a hot rotor to
the minimum and prevents carburization and material transfer from pad to disk.
not always possible, but minimal brake pressure after stopping
Which is better, cast or forged?
-
Max
Charleston SC
On Fri, Dec 28, 2018 at 11:33 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I should also say that I have 5 original forged 14" bundt fuchs wheels that
> I am having redone, if anyone wants that shiny new look.
I should also say that I have 5 original forged 14" bundt fuchs wheels that
I am having redone, if anyone wants that shiny new look. All the
aftermarket bundts are cast rather than forged and none of them have steel
bolt inserts like the fuchs. These are in good shape just need blasting and
paint.
Will take some in the daylight tomorrow.
On Fri, Dec 28, 2018, 7:54 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
> Pics?
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
>
> > On Dec 28, 2018, at 10:51 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Doing the second gen
Pics?
--FT
Sent from iPhone
> On Dec 28, 2018, at 10:51 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Doing the second gen w126 front brake upgrade on the 123. Ordered all the
> stuff today. New backing plates was the most expensive item. More than
> rebuilt calipers. It needed new rotors
Doing the second gen w126 front brake upgrade on the 123. Ordered all the
stuff today. New backing plates was the most expensive item. More than
rebuilt calipers. It needed new rotors anyway and I am very tired of the
rotors warping after stopping fast at lights.
126 calipers require 15" wheels,
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