I know they've been controversial on this list and wonder if anyone
has one they aren't using that they'd like to pass on. I've got some
items to consider trading if you do.
Cheers,
Adam
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That thing's a beaut! Congratulations. I love how proportional
everything looks even with the 37mm tires and Silver brakes-- at
first, I didn't even realize it had the longer reach brakes. I also
really like single-color Riv paint jobs, and how understated they
are.
One question--how did you ge
I test road on a 65 cm and they recommended a 67 cm. We ordered and
hope it gets shipped to Ohio this week. Then the assembly.
I would have bought the 65 right off the floor it road so nice, but I
am 6'5" tall so between the shop owner and my wife and since Rivendell
had a frame in stock that cou
Once again, I find myself intrigued by mustache bars. I used to have a
Bridgestone XO-3 that came with mustache bars. The B-stone bars fit a
25.4 stem and used mountainbike bike levers. The bars were okay, but
not great for rides over 45 minutes.
I'm thinking about getting some Nitto mustache bars,
Another advantage to 584s... Grand Bois Hetres... Can I GIT an AMEN,
brothers... Those are some heavenly tires.
On Oct 25, 12:51 pm, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Given that (as I assume -- correct me if wrong) your friend won't be
> seeking high performance with an old Rockhopper, and given the wide
>
Steve:
Haven't tried (yet), since I'm currently running my Planet Bike Dynamo
on the handlebars, but it seems to me there would be plenty of
options, including drilling through the wood slats to create a low
mount in the front... Just STAY CLEAR OF THAT BOTTLE OPENER, MAN!!
BB
On Oct 25, 1:27 pm
ya, and it's UGLY (colorwise)
On Oct 25, 2010, at 3:36 PM, Johnny Alien wrote:
> That is priced way too high. This is not the first time that has been
> listed.
>
> On Oct 25, 3:53 pm, Andrew wrote:
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-1982-BRIDGESTONE-ATLANTIS-ONLY-300-MADE-/300...
>
--
You receive
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 7:54 PM, doug peterson wrote:
> Seth:
>
> Thanks for that! I knew I was going to feel dumb when I Iearned the
> answer. In my case (for shipping) all I need to do is unbolt the
> cable stops from their mounts. Duh!
>
bingo.
maybe one day I'll take step-by-step pictures
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 7:18 PM, Montclair BobbyB
wrote:
> Seth:
>
> I forgot to thank you... THANK YOU. YOU gave me the great idea in the
> first place to use DaVinci splitters on my Bombadil. I have a set of
> Nitto Noodles and a set of Nitto/Riv Bullmoose bars that each provides
> a very diff
Patrick:
If you're running the cable housing outside of the tape, there's
really no reason to have any part of it taped. My BE shifter cable
housing runs from the pods to the DT cable stops completely outside of
the tape. That would buy you a little more "tangle-free" area on the
drops.
Dave
On
You should get a rapid rise rear dérailleur and one of those old
suntour fronts that shift "backwards". That'll really give the brain
a workout.
On Oct 25, 3:03 pm, james black wrote:
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:56, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> > Don't you find that awfully confusing to use?
>
> I
Mike,
I guess it was somewhere between two and three years but it would've
been less. I asked them to put me on hold for a while because I wasn't
sure what I wanted. Once I knew, it was pretty quick.
Either way now that it's here, it doesn't seem like it took that
long :^ )
- Frank
On Oct 25, 5:
Jim,
Well for starters the craftsmanship on the Waterford doesn't hold up
well compared to the new bike, but the Road was a production bike. The
contact points are pretty much the same so the fit feels very
familiar. Both bikes have about the same top tube length (long) but
the head and seat tube
Seth:
Thanks for that! I knew I was going to feel dumb when I Iearned the
answer. In my case (for shipping) all I need to do is unbolt the
cable stops from their mounts. Duh!
dougP
On Oct 25, 1:24 pm, Seth Vidal wrote:
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 4:21 PM, doug peterson wrote:
> > Several list
Seth:
I forgot to thank you... THANK YOU. YOU gave me the great idea in the
first place to use DaVinci splitters on my Bombadil. I have a set of
Nitto Noodles and a set of Nitto/Riv Bullmoose bars that each provides
a very different cockpit. I've positioned the splitters just below
the downtube
On Mon, 2010-10-25 at 15:27 -0700, james black wrote:
>
> Perversely, I also have the rear brake caliper mounted backwards on
> the front side of the seatstays, in order to get the Tubus Fly rack to
> install without conflicting with the brake. If three things on the
> bike are backwards, is that
Thanks everyone. Travis' explanation really describes it well. And
Seth's and Phillip's photos really helped. I already have the tandem
cables and housing on order, so as soon as they arrive, I'll get
crackin' on the Atlantis.
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That is priced way too high. This is not the first time that has been
listed.
On Oct 25, 3:53 pm, Andrew wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-1982-BRIDGESTONE-ATLANTIS-ONLY-300-MADE-/300...
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To p
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 15:18, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> and that means you stand at least a chance of learning it without
> conflicts. Are all your other bikes downtube levers you operate with
> your right hand only? That would, I think, be the best situation since
> this would be your only real
On Mon, 2010-10-25 at 15:03 -0700, james black wrote:
>
> It does feel weird, but it's also my first time using half-step and my
> only bike with bar-end shifters, so it would feel weird anyway,
and that means you stand at least a chance of learning it without
conflicts. Are all your other bike
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:56, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> Don't you find that awfully confusing to use?
It does feel weird, but it's also my first time using half-step and my
only bike with bar-end shifters, so it would feel weird anyway, and I
have no reason to doubt that I'm capable of getting us
Wow, the bike looks great. I can't see how you won't enjoy it. How
long was the wait for it?
--mike
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Frank,
Very nice bike! How do think it compares to the Rivendell Road
(Waterford era) bike that you owned? It obviously can accommodate a
much larger tire size than the original Rivendell Road Standard.
Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ
On Oct 25, 2:05 pm, frank_a wrote:
> I got it last week, well worth t
Hmmm. I might try the crossed cables, seeing how it's a simple
switch.
A little helicopter tape on the downtube should protect the breathe-on-
it-and-it-scratches paint!
On Oct 25, 4:47 pm, William wrote:
> The cross in front also has its trade offs. The cables themselves do
> rub on the unders
Interesting that they show forged seat posts as something that's not
made anymore (?). Should someone tell them about Nitto? (e.g.
Jaguar seatpost is the BEST ever!)
Jim Cloud
Tucson, AZ
On Oct 25, 12:21 pm, Ian Connelly wrote:
> doesn't this seem like a headline or article ripped straight fr
I think the stories goes (I read it either from GP or jobst brandt,
can't remember which) that prior to SIS compression-less housing
coming along, most der. housing was floppy, wound stuff that wouldn't
support the weight of a long arch from shifter to downtube, so you had
to route it up under the
I got it last week, well worth the wait. I've owned or own a
Quickbeam, a couple of Atlantis', a Saluki, a (Waterford) Rivendell
Road and an A. Homer Hilsen.
I told Grant what worked for me and what didn't, here's what he came
up with.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8531...@n06/sets/721576251103736
On Mon, 2010-10-25 at 13:50 -0700, james black wrote:
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:47, William wrote:
> > The cross in front also has its trade offs.
>
> Another idea for the brave among you, which I recently used on my
> newly built Nishiki GBUB knockoff porteur: switch the left and right
> shif
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 4:50 PM, james black wrote:
> On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:47, William wrote:
>> The cross in front also has its trade offs.
>
> Another idea for the brave among you, which I recently used on my
> newly built Nishiki GBUB knockoff porteur: switch the left and right
> shifter
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:47, William wrote:
> The cross in front also has its trade offs.
Another idea for the brave among you, which I recently used on my
newly built Nishiki GBUB knockoff porteur: switch the left and right
shifters, that is, put the front shifter on the right side and
vice-ve
The cross in front also has its trade offs. The cables themselves do
rub on the underside of the downtube when they cross back over to get
into the right BB guide slot. Also that "might" cause trouble for
your third bottle cage bosses, if you have them.
On Oct 25, 12:17 pm, Erik wrote:
> Peter,
Peter,
IMO crossing the cables is a much better option than making housing
bends tighter. Those tighter housing bends also often lead to rubbing
on the frame and/or eventual failure of the housing at the end. I've
never seen an issue with cables rubbing against each other.
-Erik
On Oct 25, 12:03
I'm glad I could help, Peter.
I was worried about the friction where the bare cables cross myself,
but I've had one bike built like that for a couple of years and
haven't noticed any wear whatsoever.
For cables I used a Jagwire kit, which supplies plenty of housing
length. I bought a separate (ta
crud... that means more people will be competing for this stuff on
Ebay!
I just picked up a nice set of those Campy Record skewers BTW.
~Mike~
On Oct 25, 12:21 pm, Ian Connelly wrote:
> doesn't this seem like a headline or article ripped straight from the
> Reader?
> (i'm excited to read it, ju
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 4:21 PM, doug peterson wrote:
> Several list members have posted regarding using cable splitters to
> allow quick changes of handlebar. I like to remove the handlebars
> from my Atlantis for shipping, so that idea has a lot of appeal. So
> I'm staring at the Atlantis & tr
Several list members have posted regarding using cable splitters to
allow quick changes of handlebar. I like to remove the handlebars
from my Atlantis for shipping, so that idea has a lot of appeal. So
I'm staring at the Atlantis & trying to figure out where I would split
the shift cables. It's
Smartwool ski socks are just the ticket. The extra thickness in front for
padding against a ski boot gives extra insulation against the wind while
riding.
Tom
On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 7:37 AM, karpowicz wrote:
> So, if you wear knickers what do you wear to cover the calves during cold
> weather?
http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-1982-BRIDGESTONE-ATLANTIS-ONLY-300-MADE-/300483623944?pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item45f6383c08#ht_6335wt_1097
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doesn't this seem like a headline or article ripped straight from the
Reader?
(i'm excited to read it, just sayin)
https://i2.createsend1.com/ei/y/69/08E/2CD/143911/main.jpg
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I've been thinking about a Gamoh rack for my commuter--is there any obvious way
to mount a light on it? (eyelet, etc)
Steve
-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Montclair BobbyB
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 8:
Howdy folks.
It looks like one of these will lace right into a (new) coaster brake wheel
I have. Before I order one somewhere, anyody have one laying around with no
particular plans to use it? New is preferred, but lightly used and laced
only once (preferably with outside spokes pulling) would p
Sorry, fellow listers, for not replying only to the OP.
--
Jon ³Papa² Grant
Illustration + Information Graphics
Austin, Texas
jgr...@papagrant.com
512-284-9599
Drawings ‹ all sorts
From: Jon Grant
Reply-To:
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:49:14 -0500
To:
Subject: Re: [RBW] Carradice Rain Cape FS $
Forgot to add: the early 90s SJs handle quite nicely, if my Comp and
Team were any indication.
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 10:51 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Given that (as I assume -- correct me if wrong) your friend won't be
> seeking high performance with an old Rockhopper, and given the wide
> rang
Thanks to all who expressed interest.
--Eric N
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Given that (as I assume -- correct me if wrong) your friend won't be
seeking high performance with an old Rockhopper, and given the wide
range of tire sizes available in 559, I'd say that you ought to keep
the 559 wheels. You can run 32 mm Paselas or 50 or 60 mm Big Apples
and much in between.
The
on 10/25/10 5:45 AM, Garth at garth...@gmail.com wrote:
> original_sept_9-1.pd
EXCELLENT! That was the droid I was seeking - thanks for the reminder, I'd
stashed a copy on the Bombadil page a couple weeks ago, and couldn't track
down the full sized pdf.
Duly noted and now updated.
http://cyclo
I¹ll be your huckleberry. Let¹s give it a shot. Paypal?
--
Jon ³Papa² Grant
Illustration + Information Graphics
Austin, Texas
jgr...@papagrant.com
512-284-9599
Drawings ‹ all sorts
From: Eric Norris
Reply-To:
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 09:29:13 -0700
To:
Subject: [RBW] Carradice Rain Cape FS $50
Tell us how the 50s work in snow. I've got 60s (BAs and Exiwolfs),
nyah, nyah nyah! (But very little, snow.)
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 10:13 AM, Garth wrote:
> Great Patrick, thanks for the info. Woo-hoo now for some snow!
> Not really though. More like survival. I dream of the warm desert in
On Oct 24, 11:42 pm, "Bryan @ Renaissance Bicycles"
wrote:
> Yes, Jim is right about the wheel flop ... adding weight to the front
> end would be a risky move.
>
> And while we are
> sharing:http://www.renaissancebicycles.com/2010/06/renaissanced-1983-speciali...
>
This is interesting. On the o
Trade your skinny, hard pavement only tires for some real meat. One of
the 60s was mounted and ridden a block or two; t'other not mounted.
Can't tell which is which.
(I want to try 50s for the second, skinny wheelset for the Fargo.)
--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, cont
http://picasaweb.google.com/BERTIN753/ForSale#
Also 26.2 cheepo seatpost, 300 mm, $12 shipped.
CONUS only, please -- well, OK, Canada, HI and AK, too, but extra
postage. No furriners.
--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gma
Thought I would use this when I bought it from Beth in Portland last year, but
I didn't. Now is *your* chance to own a genuine English rain cape. Excellent
condition. Comes without the optional hood.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/4286289085/
$50 shipped to your door in the USA.
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 12:11 PM, Philip Williamson
wrote:
> Weren't derailer cables always routed to the bar, before Rivendell
> pioneered the new way?
'the new way'?
No.
shifter cables came from the shifters (either downtube, barend,
thumbies or brifters) and made an arch with no sharp transi
Great Patrick, thanks for the info. Woo-hoo now for some snow!
Not really though. More like survival. I dream of the warm desert in
winter.
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Weren't derailer cables always routed to the bar, before Rivendell
pioneered the new way?
I think I did need tandem cables to make the distance:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/5114851886/
Pretty straightforward setup. I like the clean lines, and the
Bontrager has top-tube stops, so
Thanks Travis, now I know I'm not totally out to lunch! My cables run
under the bar tops at about the same 4:00 position, and fall right
under the bend in my knuckles when I grip the bar there - it almost
feels MORE ergonomic than a plain round bar. I do the same cross-over,
but I did mine in front
I prefer this method as well - it's cleaner and it shifts fine. It
does require extra cable though. I use inner cable meant for a tandem
to reach my rear derailleur.
It's fine to have the cables exit your bar top at the same place.
People who use Campy or Sram brake/shift levers do this all the ti
Cool... I have a giant Wald on order for my Platrack, to which I plan
to add wooden slats... Now even medium-sized dogs should fear me!!!
(I'd love to cart my German Shepard around on my bike... But I may
have to build a trailer for him...hmmm...)
On Oct 25, 11:04 am, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Nice
Nice rack. My brother in LA has a giant Wald on a very early Bianchi
MTB on which he carries his 12 lb dog.
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 9:02 AM, Montclair BobbyB
wrote:
> Here's my 85 Stumpy with the Gamoh rack... Ready to haul...or to
> kidnap little dogs... heh heh...
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2djcgxr
Here's my 85 Stumpy with the Gamoh rack... Ready to haul...or to
kidnap little dogs... heh heh...
http://tinyurl.com/2djcgxr
On Oct 25, 8:12 am, Montclair BobbyB
wrote:
> I just installed a Gamoh cargo rack on my '85 Stumpy, and while it's
> heavyish (5 lbs), the bike has taken on a new person
FWIW, I've used 60 mm fenders on bikes with 60 mm + tires, and while
the sidewalls peak out from underneath the fenders still do a very
good job of keeping the slush and water and mud off me and the bike.
It seems that most of the throw-off is from the center of the tire --
I suppose the centrifuga
Do you feel any additional friction so routing the cables? If not, I
may have to do this on the one bike with BES -- not that it's a huge
deal, but my fingers tend to get very slightly tangled in the housing
as it escapes from the tape just for'ard of the shifter pods (I ride
this bike in the hooks
I really like the look of the SKS fenders, but only wish they made
really wide ones to fit my 700c x 50mm tires. I bought a set of SKS
P50 fenders, somehow believing I could use them on my Bombadil... so
while they're the same width as the tire and look like they might fit,
they really aren't wide
Tell us what you think of the handling. That with fit has always been
Riv's signature quality, at least with 3 out of the 4 Rivs I've owned.
And please post photos. And welcome to the list.
On Sun, Oct 24, 2010 at 3:35 PM, Kelly wrote:
> I just purchased a 67 CM AHH from "The Country Bike Store"
same here... tandem cables and such. works great. I also like to route
cable on front of bar as it gives a flatter platform on top which I
find more comfortable.
~Mike~
On Oct 25, 6:29 am, Peter Pesce wrote:
> I did this on my Sam, as I don't care for the "flying whiskers" look
> of the cables t
Okay, I have some P50 fenders on my Bombadil, and I have a set of
Michelin 2" XC AT tires that would be okay for the rail trail come
snow time, but I wondered about using them with the 50mm fenders,
since the Michelins are more or less the same width. This would only
be for the snowy months, and my
I did this on my Sam, as I don't care for the "flying whiskers" look
of the cables that come off the drops.
One thing to keep in mind, depending on your circumstances, is how
they route to the down tube stops. Sometimes the transition directly
to the stop can be tight.
On Oct 25, 1:40 am, Kevin T
My local shop just gave me a couple of feet of that plastic tubing--lifetime
supply!
I don't always use it--cables are pretty smooth and I've run them bare through
the cast in guides and it's been fine. Even if it wears through the paint
eventually, the continuous contact/motion of the cable p
That's really great Jim, very helpful!
If I could add one, it would be the original_sept_9-1.pdf one with the
new Bombadil nd the SimpleOne fork.
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Hey,
with a subject line like that you gotta provide at least one photo
link. :)
Welcome to the group!
Gernot
On Oct 25, 4:35 am, Kelly wrote:
> I just purchased a 67 CM AHH from "The Country Bike Store" in Ohio.
> They had many bikes to test ride and let me take one out for a spin.
> The ower
Kevin:
I always route them up to the stem... Personally I like the look much
better. It usually requires extra long cables (I use tandem cables,
and I cut my own housing to length). So check your length and make
sure you've got enough cable to route it this way; otherwise you'll
have to get long
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 1:40 AM, Kevin Turinsky wrote:
> I'm considering rerouting my derailleur cables from my bar-end
> shifters, under the tape, all the way up the bars, just like my brake
> cables. The reason I'm thinking of doing this is because then the
> cables and my Berthoud bag will no l
I just installed a Gamoh cargo rack on my '85 Stumpy, and while it's
heavyish (5 lbs), the bike has taken on a new persona... I really like
it. The HT angle on the 85 Stumpy was changed to 70 degrees, and yet
there is still some flop to deal with... Still, I'd just say be
conscious of it, riding n
Just wanted to echo my satisfaction with The Country Bike Store. They
spent all day on a Saturday fitting me. I ordered the frame and they
worked with me to get just what I wanted for components and gave
excellent advice along the way. I now have an A. Homer Hilsen that
has to be the best bike I
Your cautions noted. Thanks. Warnings aside, I really need to put
something up there. The trips are short enough, and I typically load
the heavy stuff in back. Two cases of beverages are the usual limit
back there - cans, not bottles. A front basket is preferable to a
swinging bag-o-food held in o
Both sold.
On Oct 24, 3:21 pm, Marty wrote:
> Both in great shape. Bars are take-offs from an early Stumpjumper, and
> come with original Shimano levers and grips. $40 shipped.
> WTB Kona saddle is new, but mounted once. $15 shipped. Both for $50
> shipped.
>
> Photos here:
>
> http://tinyurl.com
This hasn't been my experience at all, shifting 9 sp (and not even
stock, so ramps all messed up) with PowerRatchet bar end shifters. It
shifted fine, and I have a very sensitive ear for improperly placed
chains; and I did use all the gears, as this was a wide range double
setup. And the Silvers ar
I expect (and hope) that the Bombadil will handle much better than an
early SJ, While the later ones -- my '90 SJ Comp and '91 SJ Team --
were superlatively handling bikes (I used the latter, with drops and
37s, as a commuter for a number of years) the old, slack-angled
geometry, when I rode it, ha
Hey there -
In an attempt to aggregate the pdf's which have been published this year,
I've pulled together this (still kinda damp and dirty...) page here:
http://cyclofiend.com/rbw/pdf
It has thumbnails of the pdf's and an "in-order" posting of the "Draw/Design
Your Frame" exercise which Grant
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