https://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=112
On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 6:12:12 PM UTC-4, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> More rivmodels headed that way.
>
> Cant think of any benefits other than stability, which rivs already have
> plenty of, off top of my head.
> Was wondering what makes it worth the
Fascinating, Richard. Thank you. The longer chain stay Hunqapillar is one
of the things I've wondered about. That makes perfect sense, and matches
what I've seen my lassies do when they ride through things on their
Clementines. I couldn't tell how much was long chain stays and how much was
they
I assumed OP was referring to the move to suuuper long chain stays on bikes
like the Appaloosa and Clem.
I was wondering this myself. I actually really like it on frames like the
Appaloosa. Reminds me of (an extended version of) the old steel Specialized
Rockhopper I saved up for as a kid.
Most of the thread has focused on the benefits/deteriments for off-roading,
but I feel that the long chainstay thing has real benefits for
road/pavement riding with upright bars. I've done a fair bit of riding on
bikes with "normal" chainstays (Quickbeam and LHT) and upright handlebars
(Alba,
I agree with your impressions, Jeremy. I've owned any number of bikes with
upright bars/talk stems, including several Rivs, and my CLEM is the first one
to handle them (on pavement) with a "planted" feel to the front end. All the
other ones were a bit recumbentish in that the rear always felt li
I think "off road" is a little broad. Yes, at some point on some terrain
somewhere, any particular bike design will start to involve compromise. In
lots of directions, Rivendells take a lot longer to reach those compromises.
Single track with lots of rocks and roots and logs would start to class
I've only spent about five minutes on a 60 Cheviot, so take this for FWIW, but
I did so immediately after finishing a ride on my 56 Sam. The Cheviot felt
super stable (in a good way), almost like I was an alligator and could feel my
tail trailing predictably behind me as I turned--a weird analog
Kielsun,
Thanks for your input.Interesting.
On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 6:17:29 AM UTC-6, kielsun wrote:
> I've only spent about five minutes on a 60 Cheviot, so take this for FWIW,
> but I did so immediately after finishing a ride on my 56 Sam. The Cheviot
> felt super stable (in a good way)
Just to give a counter point to Richard's off-road observations, I have
found long chainstays to be wonderful off-road. Now I have not ridden a
bike with 21 inch CS like the 60cm Cheviot, but I have ridden 17 to 19 inch
CS bikes. I have also ridden Surly bikes with rear dropouts/drop-ins where
Ha. I suppose 'very big disadvantage' was a bit extreme. I carted my
commuter up and down a lot of stairs that day.
Eric
On Tuesday, June 14, 2016 at 7:14:37 AM UTC-4, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> I think "off road" is a little broad. Yes, at some point on some terrain
> somewhere, any particular
I don't mean to minimize it though, it definitely is a consideration. I am
fortunate to have the strength and health right now. But I suspect if you
can carry a regular bike up, with a bit more effort you can get a long
wheelbase bike up. If you can't carry a regular bike the point is moot. So
I will say that my medium Clementine is a gangly beast, I sized up in the Riv.
Tradition, but it's size is one of the things I dig about it!
That said, the chain stays are unnecessarily long. I can't even imagine if I'd
have bought a large! :-0
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I also own a medium Clementine. How did you make the determination that the
chain stays are unnecessarily long? While I do realize that there is some
point where long becomes too long, I would have no clue as to where to
begin to make such a definitive assessment about the Clementine cs length.
You know it's a bit subjective, the bike is BIG and even with shorter stays it
would still be big, but longs stays . . . How long is too long!? The bike was
made as a homage to or at least evolved from the idea of early 80's mountain
bikes, which had longer stays, steel forks, etc. The differen
I'll gladly take the ability to run normal cranks with low-ish q-factor
compared to other bikes that fit large tires if the exchange is that tight
turns are an issue.
For chainstay length, pannier clearance is completely dependent on the user
(foot size and pedaling position). I'd certainly tak
The thing is on your large, the chain stays could probably be 1 to 1.5 inches
shorter and you still wouldn't have to worry about clipping the pannier and you
would get the benefit of a better handling bike. Too long better than too short
for sure, but how much too long? Maybe for me, it's partly
FWIW in regard to chainring clearance you don't have to go to super long
stays in order to get this though. The original Stumpjumer is a great
example of design that had the clearance for both wide tires AND any crank
you wanted. In fact the original Stumpy came with TA cranks. Why no one
el
Yes, definitely not a homage, certainly based in part on the pure
functionality of 80s mountain bikes. The vintage ones I've had (Canyon
Express, Miyata Ridge Runner, Mongoose) all had chainstay lengths of, off
the top of my head, 43-46cm, which is right around the touring bike
territory of the
You know one thing that's been perplexing me on my Clementine is the amount of
pedal strike I've been getting. Odd because, the BB drop, crank length, etc.
isn't really measurably different from several other bikes I own that I have no
such issue with!?
Then this morning I was reading Zed's re
Could you please explain this? I'm too dim to get the causal connection
between chain stay length and pedal strike.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 9:49:41 AM UTC-6, masmojo wrote:
>
> The long chain stays/wheel base are contribuing to the pedal strike
> problem! Ah! Makes per
You have to lean the bike more to carve the same arc (as a shorter
wheelbase bike) during a turn...
On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 11:21:34 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Could you please explain this? I'm too dim to get the causal connection
> between chain stay length and pedal strike.
>
>
I'd have to measure my roadster to compare, maybe I'll do so when I get
home. It's not a short bike, but not as long as the Clem certainly. I feel
like the BB drop plus the Sylvans is still most of it though, it's only
been a problem when I'm turning on a grade. With a BB drop of 67, and a
theo
Thanks, Will. That was the piece I'm missing.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 10:59:41 AM UTC-6, Will wrote:
>
> You have to lean the bike more to carve the same arc (as a shorter
> wheelbase bike) during a turn...
>
> On Monday, June 20, 2016 at 11:21:34 AM UTC-5, Deacon Patr
I have not experienced pedal strike with the Clementine on the road. While
cutting through short, rutted trails of some grade, I've bumped a rock once
or twice, but that would have probably happened on any bike. Though I am a
former racer, I tend to not pedal through turns of 90 degrees or mo
You need to ride a Jones Plus! Getting the front wheel up is super easy!
On Monday, June 13, 2016 at 4:19:45 PM UTC-7, Richard Rios wrote:
>
> On road they are fine. Very laid back feeling, smooth and what others
> mentioned. Off road I found I didn't like them so much especially if paired
> wit
I noticed the Jones Plus uses a 68mm BB shell, but wondered what the
minimum inside width for cranks is to clear the chainstays ? I'm real
interested in one but the cranks are giving me pause as I run short 152
length XD cranks and I have found no comparable crank in current mtb
models.
--
Bikes generally grow taller way faster than they grow longer, and
so...bigger bikes are top-heavy. "Top-heavy" isn't exactly a scientific
description, but it's a way to casually talk about the proportions of
weight-up-high to wheelbase-down-low. For hundreds of decades, the longest
chainstays
In my experience long chain stays have two drawbacks: its harder to pull up
over an obstacle and the need to buy two chains because 114-links is not
enough.
Short stays make the bike feel twitchy and ride rough.
Competition hill climbing motorcycles use really long swing arms, so how do
short s
If I have to use two chains...count me out!
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:) Ahahaha ! Not really of course, more like one extra chain would last
you for quite a few link add ons to a another new chain.
On Friday, July 1, 2016 at 1:21:09 PM UTC-4, Eric wrote:
>
> If I have to use two chains...count me out!
>
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Never buy a tandem, then! You'll need three chains for one of those. Two
for the timing chain and one for the driving chain. Don't even get me
started on tandems where the captain crankset has the drivechain.
On Friday, July 1, 2016 at 10:21:09 AM UTC-7, Eric wrote:
>
> If I have to use two
IOW, (I think) you have to turn sharper, and therefore lean more, to carve
the same arc. Think of a semitrailer combo making a turn on a city street.
On Mon, Jun 20, 2016 at 10:59 AM, Will wrote:
> You have to lean the bike more to carve the same arc (as a shorter
> wheelbase bike) during a turn
Actually, the problem I am having is more of an issue with uneven surfaces,
although the turning plays into it as well. The further the wheels are apart
the more likely that a bump or object can stick up between them and you pedal
can hit it while it rotates around. Generally, you you anticip
>
> The further the wheels are apart the more likely that a bump or object can
> stick up between them and you pedal can hit it while it rotates around.
That actually sounds about right to me. Most of my pedal strikes have been
when cresting a short rise at a T onto the local trail that gets s
Hmm. I have not been riding the Clementine off road and I doubt I have your
off-road skills. I can see where the bike could get "hung up" especially on
a grade. But speed bumps with no lean, that would be purely a bb height
issue, no? Are you guys both running the Compass Switchbacks? Are they
I've been riding Big Bens, which I believe are nearly identical size wise to
the Kendas.
And yes, I've adjusted my riding style, but occasionally you get stuck in an
awkward place and you get jammed up. I remember one night I was trying to lift
the front wheel up from street level to the sidewal
I'm running Switchbacks Mark, but mine's totally just noob mistakes. I
never pedal through turns, but I'd also never had a bike where I had to pay
any particular thought to raising the inside pedal before the turn. I mean,
I've scraped the end of a few before, but on the Clem that sucker just
s
So I got my Clem set up with tubeless knobbies (Spec. Fast Trak 29x2.2) and
my wife and I went singletracking with our Clems over the weekend. In
general, I was super happy with how the Clem performed as a mountain
bike--it was exactly what i was hoping for. Bullet points:
Upsides of long cha
Very interesting; thanks for this report. I'll be interested to hear how
the C and the Joe Appaloosa compare off road.
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 8:54 AM, Jeremy Till wrote:
> So I got my Clem set up with tubeless knobbies (Spec. Fast Trak 29x2.2)
> and my wife and I went singletracking with our Cl
I wouldn't say a noob mistake, Zed. I do think the pedals on the Clems are
lower than your average bear, and, perhaps combined with the long cs, might
need some getting used to, depending on your riding style/terrain.
For comparison, the JA in the 52cm 650b size has a bb drop of 68.9, with
52c
Notwithstanding Jeremy's report, which is great to read. Are you intending
it for mainly traditional singletrack duties, or will you be switching back
and forth (tires, wheelsets)?Other than dirt paths and a one-mile loop of
singletrack, I can't really get to mountain biking trails without a car
On 06/30/2016 11:04 AM, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
Bikes generally grow taller way faster than they grow longer, and
so...bigger bikes are top-heavy. "Top-heavy" isn't exactly a
scientific description, but it's a way to casually talk about the
proportions of weight-up-high to wheelbase-down-lo
Steve, from here it looks like you are at the exact midpoint between your
basic unicycle and your tandem recumbent. (Maybe a *smidge* toward TR.)
>
> How big is "bigger"? And where does "mid-sized" end and "bigger"
> begin? I'd like to think my 59-60 cm frames are at the high end of
> "mid-s
Doesn't it all depend on how many rocks are in the top of the engine? I'm
top heavy just because of all the granite between my ears! Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 7:26:53 PM UTC-6, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> Steve, from here it looks like you are at the exact midpoint
"Rocks in the top of the engine" is a phantastik fraze---I just wish it
were more versatile so I could plug it in here and there during the day.
On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 6:42 PM, Deacon Patrick wrote:
> Doesn't it all depend on how many rocks are in the top of the engine? I'm
> top heavy just bec
Fittings occasions will doubtless be plentiful for brilliant,
self-effacing, dry witted cranksters! Grin.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Friday, July 1, 2016 at 7:56:36 AM UTC-6, Grant @ Rivendell wrote:
>
> "Rocks in the top of the engine" is a phantastik fraze---I just wish it
> were more versatile
It's one chain, just more links. Most chains come 114 or 116 links. The
60cm Cheviot has a 56cm chainstay (our longest) and typically uses 123
links...so, to be clear, eradicate all heads of visions of double chain
shenannigans. It is true that when you buy a boxe chains you have to buy
two of them
There's a plethora of cargo bikes and recumbents out there with long
chains..it's just a thing you deal with for the benefits of a longbike. And
those benefits are real: My New Blue Appaloosa exhibits a lovely "sitting in
the bike, not on top of it" feel, and tracks straight as a freight train o
On 07/01/2016 04:52 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
Never buy a tandem, then! You'll need three chains for one of those.
Two for the timing chain and one for the driving chain. Don't even
get me started on tandems where the captain crankset has the drivechain.
Absolutely no worries about angular
I have saved chain fragments from decades of riding on bikes with too short
chainstays. If anyone needs chain fragments for 7/8 or 9 speed chains to get
started I can mail them. No cost. But it'll probably be the slow mail choice.
Joe in GJT
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