Tim
Once that job is done right you'll have a real sound and a very pretty boat.I think she was worth the effort and expense. I noted a year or two back on this list about mast step/ keel sump area issues with the 35 MKIII and the 33MKII but that info did not go over well with some owners of those designs which were both Ball designs from the same decade. Do you think the problems you fixed were isolated to your boat or were the problems you had likely something that other owners should be concerned about, especially regarding safety off shore and less importantly resale opportunities I declined on a real nice looking 33MKII because I was aware of possible issues and settled on a much older 35 MKII boat which has been very tough and a real nice sailing vessel Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _____ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: January 11, 2013 6:21 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks Yes, the survey included use of a moisture meter, and showed some wetness in the deck, which I fixed last year (and had expected to for some time), and a very limited area of the hull (which turned out to be fine and solid glass when samples were taken). It was about four years before I saw issues that led to investigation that led to work. I could perhaps have left things as they were but a) not very confidence inspiring and b) no way I could sell. Tim On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 5:13 PM, William Hall <wh...@alum.mit.edu> wrote: Ouch. Brings back bad memories. I re-cored the deck of an E-22 once. Not fun. Did the surveyor go over the hull with a moisture meter as part of the survey? How long was that before you had to tear into it like this? On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 3:47 PM, Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> wrote: I haven't tried sharing anything via Google+, so don't know if they force you to have a Google ID. Anyway, here are some pictures of the core work from Spring 2011 and a couple of pictures from chainplate reinforcement from the prior year. This year it's just the keel sump (pictures to be posted later). I know this is not a particularly good advertisement for owning an older C&C, or trusting surveyors for that matter... https://plus.google.com/photos/101312290967793013089/albums/5832293047389624 689 Tim Mojito 1984 C&C 35-3 Branford, CT On Fri, Jan 11, 2013 at 9:13 AM, dwight veinot <dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca> wrote: Tim Do you have any photos of the repair that you can share? If so I'd like to have a look, please Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS _____ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear Sent: January 11, 2013 9:59 AM To: Dennis C.; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks The cause of the cracks was wet core just outboard / above the solid glass at the turn of the bilge (right by the mast step). There was a void between the mast step assembly (glass) and the hull proper that allowed water to sit for a while (29 years?) against the inner laminate... I now have full confidence in the hull integrity (having replaced most of it over the last two years), but am many dollars lighter. The temptation of a new boat is growing. Tim Mojito 1984 C&C 35-3 Branford, CT On Sun, Dec 16, 2012 at 8:50 PM, Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com> wrote: Tim, My boat is a lot older than yours but if it's any indication, their layup schedules weren't very good. I've re-tabbed most of the bulkhead/hull joints in Touche's forward section. A few were detached or broken but most were just bad practice. When I had the boat hauled about 5 years ago for a barrier coat, I could see cosmetic cracks in the matte once the gelcoat was removed from the underbody. These cracks aligned with the bulkheads. The bulkhead tabs had no fillets. They were all 90 degree joints. This created stress points at the joints which manifested themselves as the cosmetic cracks on the outside of the hull. I have been re-tabbing all the bulkheads with filleted joints. I ground out the old tabbing, created fillets and re-tabbed with 4 inch biaxial tape. To create the fillets, I put thickened epoxy in the joint and smoothed it with the back of a plastic spoon. This creates a nice radius for the fillet. The filleted joints spread the load. This is particularly important in the forward section of the boat as that's where the boat pounds into waves. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA _____ From: Tim Goodyear <timg...@gmail.com> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2012 4:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel stub cracks There is some tabbing in the bilge sump between floors and hull that has become detached. I'll have that ground off and reattached and will add glass on the outside and fair. Does anyone have access to any of the original layup schedules in that area? I have copies of all the drawings that were available, but none were that specific on construction methods. Thanks, Tim Mojito C&C 35-3 1984 Branford, CT On Sun, Dec 2, 2012 at 7:34 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> wrote: Hi Tim I'd pull the cabin sole and see if the floor grid is still well attached to the hull at the turn of the bilge, I'm guessing on the port side it is not. Graham Collins Secret Plans C&C 35-III #11 Tim Goodyear wrote: Hello all 35-3 owners - I'm looking for some advice, especially from those who have re-habbed their keels on this model... I was checking on Mojito this morning, and noticed beads of moisture in two areas; a spot at the top of the keel trailing edge and an 8" hairline crack on the port side at hull / keel stub (almost exactly where the mast step is internally). Would this have been enough for you to go ahead with major keel surgery? Rear of keel I've been trying to resolve this for a while; two separate boat yards have had a go at if, and the area is now solid fiberglass / epoxy, but still a tiny crack / area of moisture. There was water in the bilge just aft of the rear keel bolt (I removed the floorboards and sponged the area dry). Water would not normally stay in that area, but the boat is tilted back a little on the stands. I have not had the keel bolts torqued in 7 years (since I bought Mojito). Mast Step area This is the first year I've noticed moisture in that area; there have been hairline cracks in the antifouling before. The mast is stepped and I can't access that area through the mast step, which appears sound. Thanks, Tim Mojito 1984 C&C 35-3 Branford, CT _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com <http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/> CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2637/5525 - Release Date: 01/11/13 _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- William D. Hall, Ph.D. 203 653 2886 <tel:203%20653%202886> (o) 617 620 9078 <tel:617%20620%209078> (c) wh...@alum.mit.edu _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2637/5525 - Release Date: 01/11/13
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