gene heskett wrote:
> On Sunday, July 31, 2011 12:59:28 PM Lester Caine did opine:
>
>> gene heskett wrote:
>>> That junction box on the motor, local made?  Neat!
>>
>> Standard small box ... and a couple of short programs on the mill!
>> http://medw.co.uk/wiki/index.php?page=180NcmMotorTermination
>>
> Thanks, bookmarked.  I had not considered the epoxy putty idea as being
> usable considering the motors operating temps would tend to soften the
> putty.  I take it this has not become a problem?  How about if the plastic
> was swapped out for the smallest die-cast alu?  Would thermal expansion
> diffs break it loose eventually?
Not had any problem with heat cycling.
The epoxy putty I've been using is rated at a high temperature, and also 
insulates the plastic box from the motor. Had a couple of cases where the box 
has had a clout and been knocked off, but a quick squirt of super glue has 
fixed 
that. Some customers drop on a couple of cable ties as well just as extra 
security from knocks.

> Also, did you clean the side of the motor before sticking on?  Mine are,
> after all these years, understandably oil covered but I've been hesitant to
> clean with anything but the air hose as I didn't want to effect the
> lamination layer dielectric and raise the eddy current losses.
I'm normally fixing to new motors, and I've converted quite a number.
Roughen up the backside of the box and a quick wipe with solvent always seems 
to 
work.

>> The cable is 16/0.2mm with an overall screen but a lot more flexible
>> than the Def Stan 16-2-4C in those pictures ... I don't think it's
>> 'oxygen free' credentials apply to use as motor cable though :)
>
> The cable I use is several awg smaller, comes in 22,24,26 and 28 awg.  We
> had 24 awg on a 1k foot spool at the tv station and it has worked well, and
> is wet noodle flexible.  With no red dyes in its fabrication, there are no
> built in chemical time bombs.

The systems that I've rebuilt here had small in-line connectors in the wires 
from the motor, and invariably there were intermittent shorts which is what had 
blown the drivers. So switching to a much tidier cable is always the first step 
... before replacing the controller ;) These motors invariably need a little 
more care on cleaning off any dirt :)

-- 
Lester Caine - G8HFL
-----------------------------
Contact - http://lsces.co.uk/wiki/?page=contact
L.S.Caine Electronic Services - http://lsces.co.uk
EnquirySolve - http://enquirysolve.com/
Model Engineers Digital Workshop - http://medw.co.uk//
Firebird - http://www.firebirdsql.org/index.php

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