Re: [RBW] Re: Thoughts on top tube anomaly

[Ted W]

Yup, bought this bike brand new when the last run of Appaloosas went live.
Built it up a few months ago and I've ridden it pretty much daily since. It
is almost certainly fixable. There are several reputable frame builders in
my area and I'm sure any one of them could replace the tube if needed... if
needed being the key there. I love the purple and worry about color
matching after the repair. I guess I could look at it as a chance to get a
custom work up but my wallet doesn't like the sound of that.

On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 11:06 AM Ryan  wrote:

> New bike and you are the original owner correct?
> looks a little scary and if you are the only owner hopping down stairs
> sounds
> like the culprit
>
> see what riv says but not sure this would be a warranty issue...but it's
> prob
> fixable
>
> good luck!
>
> sorry for shifty typing
> On Friday, November 17, 2023 at 9:30:29 AM UTC-6 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Noticed this after my morning ride today and I'm not sure what to make of
>> it. To my eye, it looks like the tube has wrinkled slightly, however, I
>> can't think of how it could have happened (no crashes, etc.). Additionally,
>> there's no evidence of damage to the downtube as you would see from
>> something like a front end collision. The only "hard" impact I can think of
>> was from last week when I hopped down some stairs and did feel like the
>> front wheel took a harder "thud" on the bottom step than expected. I
>> inspected the wheel and fork afterwards and didn't notice anything off. I
>> didn't look in this exact spot, but I was working on the frontend of the
>> bike later that day in the shop stand and feel like I would have seen it
>> during that time.
>>
>> My plan is to chip off the paint a little to inspect the bare metal
>> underneath to check for corrosion or cracks, though I'm not expecting to
>> see any. Assuming that, I plan to just cover up the exposed metal and keep
>> on truckin' given how minior any possible damage appears to be. I'm curious
>> to see what people think, though. I've also reached out to Riv with the
>> same photos to get an "official" opinion on the matter as well.
>>
>> [image: IMG_6432.JPG]
>> [image: IMG_6433.JPG]
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anna Purple

[Ted W]

I've got the Appaloosa in purple and it's been lovely. I've been sticking
with white, gold/brass and silver accessories and it really pops. I agree,
though, it's definitely a very polarizing color. I have never debated what
color bike to get more than I did this one. I'm glad I got what I did,
though.

On Fri, Nov 17, 2023 at 10:07 AM Tim Bantham  wrote:

> I'm considering a Platypus and need a 60cm frame only. I love the Sergio
> Green but those are sold out. I too was trying to visualize how I could
> build it. I was thinking it would look really awesome with Paul Moto-Lites
> and Love Levers in the Pewter finish. . I feel like I should trust my
> instincts on this one and maybe wait for the next batch of frames. I want
> to love the color because I want the bike to be a keeper.
>
> On Friday, November 17, 2023 at 9:41:09 AM UTC-5 sarahlik...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I just went and rode the purple test bike at Riv the other day. I had not
>> really considered a purple bike but I liked it better than I thought.
>> However it is a bit of a polarizing color... I started to figure out how I
>> would make that purple color work for me, but I doubt I could convince my
>> boyfriend to ride it in public. It's dark enough that I bet you could tone
>> the impact down by adding some anodized parts in a neutral... or you could
>> consider what I did with my last Platypus... I had it painted my favorite
>> color.
>>
>> On Friday, November 17, 2023 at 6:34:41 AM UTC-8 Tim Bantham wrote:
>>
>>> Curious what folks think of the Riv frames in purple. I personally am on
>>> the fence. I keep looking at it and can't decide if I would like it or not.
>>> I would be perfectly fine with any of the other Riv colors but the purple
>>> is a bit polarizing to me. Of course I am betting it looks great in person.
>>> Thoughts?
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Rack

[Ted W]

Highly recommend the Kuat NV2 or 1UP as previously recommended. I have the
NV2 and it’s the best rack I’ve ever owned. Can easily carry any bike I
have. The only one that pushes the limits a bit is my Gus, I wouldn’t want
to try anything longer. The only reason I didn’t get the 1UP was due to
availability at the time.

On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 5:00 PM <3mun...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Johnny! Subaru XTrek 2 inch hitch.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 4, 2023, at 1:44 PM, Johnny Alien 
> wrote:
>
> For like a car? If so 1UP will be my whole hearted recommendation. Best
> product I ever bought and works great for long wheelbases.
>
>
>
> On Saturday, November 4, 2023 at 3:35:15 PM UTC-4 SallyG wrote:
>
>> Hi all!
>> Any bike rack you'd recommend for Clem Smith L 45 cm and future Platy 50
>> cm for husband? Kuat or? Model? Thanks for any help!
>> Sally
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB - 135 hub

[Ted W]

I can speak to the VO hub quality. I have the silver VO 135 hub on the
wheelset I run on my Appa, on the Gus before that. It’s been a great hub.
Lots of miles and it still looks and feels great. Can’t speak for
serviceability yet, but it seems like any ordinary Shimano hub in that
regard.

On Tue, Oct 31, 2023 at 8:12 AM MCT  wrote:

> Velo Orange has its rim brake hub on sale in silver.  The hub can he 135mm
> or 130mm depending what endcap you use.
>
>
> https://velo-orange.com/collections/specials/products/rear-cassette-hub-silver-and-noir
>
> Matt in OKC
>
> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 5:10:06 AM UTC-5 R. Alexis wrote:
>
>> I know I have some mid level Shimano ones and a few no name ones. Will
>> have to look in stash. Seems like you would want something nicer.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Reginald Alexis
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 12:50:14 AM UTC-5 adam.som...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> Looking for the last piece of my Appo build. Does anyone have a nice,
>>> used, silver, 135 hub for sale?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Adam
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Good story about old school LBS

[Ted W]

That was a very enjoyable read. I’m with Steve, I’m going to have to
bookmark that one!

The story reminds me of two things: How much I appreciate my LBS for very
similar reasons (though, I’m still trying to get comfortable with the new
owners) and my absolute loathing of proprietary parts which has driven my
taste in bikes over the last few years; ever since snapping the fork off a
late 2000s carbon bike. After 6 months of searching I finally found a fork
with a compatible taper to replace it. I immediately sold the bike and
swore I’d never again buy a bike without thoroughly understanding every
component and aspect of it (including minutiae such as head tube tapers and
BB compatibility). This has turned me in to what my friends call a “retro
grouch” but I prefer to think of myself as a standards compliant cyclist.

On Sun, Oct 29, 2023 at 10:11 AM Steve  wrote:

> Good read!  Thanks Max for sharing the link - I just may have to add the
> site to my list of cycling related bookmarks.
>
> On Sunday, October 29, 2023 at 7:27:45 AM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>
>> I read this and it’s the kind of thing I love about bikes and good people
>> around bikes, good read for a rainy Sunday morning, hope it’s ok to post
>> since it’s barely Riv adjacent:
>> https://escapecollective.com/an-ode-to-the-old-school-bike-shop/
>>
>> Hope you enjoy it
>>
>> Max
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[Ted W]

Brian, do you have a state-side distributor for the Berthound fenders?
These look interesting. I've found them on the Berthound Cycles website but
they're almost the same price as the Honjo fenders after shipping from
Europe.

On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 10:35 AM Brian Turner  wrote:

> Ted, have you looked at the fenders made by Berthoud? I recently called up
> Peter White and ordered a set for my new Atlantis project. They're
> stainless, and smooth, but more affordable than some of the other offerings
> you mentioned above. The best thing however, I only had to drill one hole
> to match up to my rear brake bridge mounting point. Everything else was
> pre-drilled (the stays, the hole near the bottom bracket / chainstay
> bridge, and the front fender crown). You still have to have some good
> attention to detail to get good, clean fender lines... but having almost
> all of your holes pre-drilled certainly takes almost all of the real stress
> out of the equation.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Expert level bike commuting strategies?

[Ted W]

> One year, I tried tubeless and the piece of mind of not getting flats was
fabulous.  My commuter got a flat once and I had to walk home in the rain
pushing the bike.  I wasn't so happy.  When I went tubeless on the Appa, I
changed the tires to Gravel King slicks and the entire ride changed for the
better, bringing back more fun.  I couldn't wait to jump on it every day,
it was like a new bike.  So, perhaps new fabulous tires for a different
feel?  How about riding different bikes, perhaps for a week at a time. I do
that.

This reminds me, being prepared for every (most?) eventualities is a huge
part that I think some people tend to overlook. Being stranded or having to
push your bike because of a mechanical failure is a quick way to ruin your
commuting experience. I run tubeless, knobby tires on my Appaloosa for the
same reason mentioned above: flat protection. Having knobby tires reduces
the changes of a flat in my experience and tubeless tires have a lower
likely hood of going flat due to the common, small punctures I experience
around town. In my experience, tubeless tires have added flat protection
compared to strictly tubed tires. You have sealant in the tire to
automatically seal any small punctures. In the case of punctures too big to
seal automatically, I carry tire plugs (also called "bacon strips"). If all
else fails, I also carry a spare tube and patch kit; you can always run a
tubeless tire with a tube if all else fails. I've also seen tire repair
kits that include a sewing kit for repairing sidewall tears, but I've never
seen a need to include that in my kit.

To avoid getting stranded on the side of the road due to a mechanical
failure, I carry the following on my bike at all times:
* spare tube
* tire plugs (bacon strips, not darts)
* tire/tube patches
* frame pump
* bike-specific multi-tool
* Wolftooth (yes, branded) Pack Pliers
* Spare quicklinks
* Tire levers
* Spare tubeless valve and at least one spare valve core
* a couple of M4 bolts of various lengths

On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 12:06 PM Roberta  wrote:

> Hi, Michael.
>
> I'm a city girl and a newer commuter (< 2 years) and each way is 2 miles.
> The traffic and rudeness can really drain a person.  The Brompton idea is
> pretty funny, but I had a similar thought at the beginning of my
> commute--ride a city bike to work and then walk home (or in your case, ride
> the subway to work and ride home).  The one way trip options is why I
> subscribe to city bike.  I love the freedom, but the bikes less so.
>
> I also had an Appaloosa (2016 version) and it was a fantastic bike, a
> perfect commuter, I think.  One year, I tried tubeless and the piece of
> mind of not getting flats was fabulous.  My commuter got a flat once and I
> had to walk home in the rain pushing the bike.  I wasn't so happy.  When I
> went tubeless on the Appa, I changed the tires to Gravel King slicks and
> the entire ride changed for the better, bringing back more fun.  I couldn't
> wait to jump on it every day, it was like a new bike.  So, perhaps new
> fabulous tires for a different feel?  How about riding different bikes,
> perhaps for a week at a time. I do that.
>
> For me, sometimes (but not enough), I take the "long way" home, having the
> ride feel more like a bike ride than a commute.  Or, I'll go on sightly
> different routes, even if they are only one block away from standard route,
> the scenery is different.Also, for me, I don't like riding in the rain
> or extreme cold, so I just don't, as I don't want to equate "ride bike"
> with "chore."  I'll take a bus to work and walk home.  Walking is still
> good exercise and it feels good to do something different.
>
> You'll find in my office a selection of shoes, socks and pants and I
> change at the office.  I got over the pack up everything everyday pretty
> quickly.  One of the best pieces of advice I got on this board.  Pack
> everything into a big bag--in my case one of the $2 cheapie backpacks with
> the string-- and put THAT into the pannier or the saddle bag or basket of
> that day's ride.  Pannier might get dirty, but that bag is always clean,
> big enough and easy enough to bring to my room or kitchen.
>
> Roberta
> Philadelphia
>
> On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 10:26:25 AM UTC-4 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> Lately I have been biking to work again, from my home in Queens to work
>> in Manhattan. Unfortunately, my commute is less than ideal. There are few
>> bike lanes in my neighborhood. I leave at 6:30, when it’s dark and cold
>> outside. There are lots of big trucks and fast drivers. It’s hilly. Then,
>> when I get to the bike lane section of the ride, it’s crowded with electric
>> bikes, deliveristas, and stand-up electric scooters.
>>
>> My commute is 7.8 miles point to point, and I make it in about 53
>> minutes. I started keeping track of my times on Strava. I like looking at
>> my records (eastbound across Central Park in 1:40!) but I feel Strava is
>> mostly a record of how long I get 

[RBW] Bluelug brass bits in stock

[Ted W]

For those not subscribed to their marketing list, Velo Orange just sent out
notice that they have Bluelug brass bits back in stock:
https://velo-orange.com/collections/bluelug

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Re: [RBW] Expert level bike commuting strategies?

[Ted W]

Bike commuter here. I ditched the second family car a couple of years ago
and any time I'm going somewhere without my wife within the city, I'm on my
bike. I average about 20 miles per day between commuting to work and other
errands around town. I'm also in a less-than-ideal bike city (at least
that's what I'm told, I don't think it's that bad... maybe I'm just
desensitized at this point). My advice may or may not be all that helpful
but I'll offer it anyway:

Find your mental happy place, your "zen" if you want to call it that. For
me, that was understanding that I can't control what other people do and
just expect it, handle it and move on. I'm far happier if I don't let
things outside of my control bother me. Stuff in the bike lane, aggressive
drivers yelling at me, inattentive drivers turning in front of me. I have
found that if I just expect every car to turn in front of me and every bike
lane to be blocked, I don't get mad and I just shake my head and move on
with my life. Part of this, too, has been exploring alternate routes. If I
take a route that's full of inattentive dockless scooter riders, maybe I'll
see if I can find a less crowded way to get through that section of my
route, even if it means adding extra to the route.

My last piece of advice is to check out Ride with GPS's route planner
 and their public heatmaps. I have
found that this, in conjunction with Google Map's bike navigation can help
me avoid bad roads and ride routes that other cyclists ride regularly. To
me, this indicates that either there is good infrastructure along that
route or, at the very least, drivers might be more accustomed to seeing
bikes along that route.

I hope you found that information helpful.

On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 10:26 AM Michael Morrissey <
michaelgmorris...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Lately I have been biking to work again, from my home in Queens to work in
> Manhattan. Unfortunately, my commute is less than ideal. There are few bike
> lanes in my neighborhood. I leave at 6:30, when it’s dark and cold outside.
> There are lots of big trucks and fast drivers. It’s hilly. Then, when I get
> to the bike lane section of the ride, it’s crowded with electric bikes,
> deliveristas, and stand-up electric scooters.
>
> My commute is 7.8 miles point to point, and I make it in about 53 minutes.
> I started keeping track of my times on Strava. I like looking at my records
> (eastbound across Central Park in 1:40!) but I feel Strava is mostly a
> record of how long I get stuck at red lights. There are so many stoplights
> that I struggle to raise my average speed over 11 MPH.
>
> I use one Ortlieb bag, and I’ve tried to lighten my load as much as
> possible. Yet, I still feel like I am carrying a lot to work. One thing
> I’ve been doing is rolling my work clothes and putting rubber bands around
> them. That helps with the organization.
>
> I’m riding my Rivendell Appaloosa with a big back rack and fenders.
> Fortunately, even after riding it for about 7 years, the bike still feels
> amazing. I also feel great getting so much exercise, and I find I feel I
> have more energy on days I ride compared to when I take the subway.
>
> I was wondering if anyone has any bike commuting advice? I’m finding it
> hard to stay motivated. I want advanced level advice - not just “keep your
> tires pumped up,” but more along the lines of “Buy 5 Bromptons and have
> your wife drop them off at work every Sunday so you can ride one home per
> day.” One thing I might try is a lighter wheelset on the same bike. As Bill
> Lindsay said, “If everybody had a gravity knob on their bike, we would all
> peg it to the minimum.”
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michael
>
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[RBW] Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[Ted W]

Hello fellow RBW owners!

Now that I've happily found narrower tires for my Appaloosa, I'm looking at
fenders. I have three other bikes with fenders, two of them have the
plastic SKS fenders that Riv sells (the older models) and one has a set of
Planet Bike, aluminum fenders. Personally, I'm a big fan of the aluminum
fenders over the plastic ones, they just feel more solid. The Planet Bike
fenders, however, leave a little to be desired. They use the same flimsy
struts found on the plastic versions which, combined with their heavier
weight, cause them to wiggle quite a bit more than the plastic fenders.

This time around I went looking at some of the fenders made by Honjo, both
the SimWorks branded and the Rene Herse branded models. It looks like these
require more work to mount but may result in a more sturdy fixture to the
bike. I'm not terribly worried about my ability to mount them as I've got a
well equipped shop and have done metalwork before. I'm curious to learn
what folks on the list think of them, though. How easy or difficult did you
find them to install? Were you happy with how you installed them? How has
your experience been riding with them after some time? Also, RH claims
their Honjo fenders are designed differently than the standard Honjo
fenders, is there any merit to their claims? Do they actually do a better
job of channeling water than the non-RH versions? Worth the extra $30?

Cheers,

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Re: [RBW] 2.25 Thunder Burt on a Platypus?

[Ted W]

No specific experience mounting that combo but I can tell you that 2.25"
tires on Cliffhanger rims, for me, measured 60mm. If you've got calipers,
you could check the spacing between tubes and get an idea from that.

On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 10:04 AM Justin Kennedy 
wrote:

> I know it's beyond the official max tire size but wondering if anyone has
> experience with big ol' tires on your Platy. Specifically, a 29'er 2.25
> Thunder Burt (mounted on a Cliffhanger) on a 60cm Platypus. Thanks!
>
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-- 
Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >

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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

Well, for those curious, I discovered and impulsively bought a set of WTB
Resolute tires in 700x42. A friend of mines wife runs these on her Hoefer (
http://www.hoefercycles.com) gravel bike. My friend also happens to have a
couple other bikes. One runs the RH Umtanum Ridge (650x55) on one bike and
the other, Juniper Ridge (650x48). So this gave me a really great
opportunity to compare a lot of options side-by-side. Bringing out the
calipers, I measured things as follows:

|———-|
| tire | sidewall size  | rim inner width | measured width |
|———-|
| WTB  | 650x42  | 25mm|  44mm
|
|———-|
| Umtanum | 650x55  |  19mm|  53mm |
|———-|
| Juniper | 650x48  |  24mm   |   50mm
   |
|———-|

I ended up with the WTB tires because the tread pattern is almost identical
to the RH tread pattern and they’re 2/3 the price of the RH tires. The only
concern I have at this point is the sidewall. My friend warned me that he
has seen some other folks run these tires and shred the thin sidewalls. But
he prefaced that with saying those people rode on very aggressive terrain,
not what I ride (pavement and hard pack gravel).

I hope the data formatted properly (I did my best on my phone) and that the
data is helpful for others. I will report back if there’s anything to note
about the WTB tires as I get some miles on them.

On Tue, Oct 10, 2023 at 11:50 AM Mike Godwin  wrote:

> Supple Vitese 700x38 on Bob Jackson
> Challenge Strada Bianca 700x32 on Roadeo (measure about 33.3)
> Gravel King slicks 700x38 on BMC Monstercross
>
> All nice smooth rolling, the feel light enough. Got my first flat on Bob
> last week from a goathead. I've not had issues with them, mount easily and
> lie in the bead bed perfectly.  Same can be said about the Challenge
> tires.  Gravel Kings are a bit tighter (on Pacenti Forza rims), I think
> they are the tubeless compatible model. No flats yet.
>
> BMC and BJ do commute and errand duties alternating weeks.
> Mike SLO CA
>
> On Monday, October 9, 2023 at 10:18:02 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Jason,
>>
>> I'm digging the 650B × 42 Pumpkin Ridge for crappy road/mellow dirt
>> riding, but they feel a smidge narrow and skittish on some of the gnarlier
>> terrain I've discovered since moving here. I have room for 48s, should I
>> dump cash - it's a LOT of cash - into Juniper Ridges?
>>
>> Joe Bernard
>>
>> On Monday, October 9, 2023 at 5:43:19 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>
>>> I'm late to the party, and every angle has already been discussed at
>>> length, but I still want to shout out the RH knobbies. I'm very happy with
>>> them, but more notably for me is that I've recommended them to some riding
>>> buddies and then the good word spread like wildfire and now nearly all my
>>> riding buddies within that social circle, which ranges from longtime
>>> roadies to newbies to longtime mountain bikers, all absolutely swear by
>>> these tires.  None of us have experienced a tire that grips so well on a
>>> variety of trail surfaces, rolls fast and predictably on pavement, resists
>>> punctures, and feels great (better than other premium Panaracer brands) all
>>> at the same time.
>>>
>>> My only non-gushing comments would be that they do have a buzz on
>>> pavement, though the tone is more pleasant than most knobbies, and they do
>>> tend to throw pea gravel through your fender if you run metal fenders,
>>> which is slightly annoying. Definitely pair these with PDW safety tabs if
>>> running metal fenders.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, 2 October 2023 at 08:26:17 UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 I’ve had tires on the brain this last week. I was thinking I might want
 to try something a little narrower on my Appaloosa so I’ve been a bit
 absorbed with that thought.

 At the moment I run the SimWorks Super Yummy tire with the black
 sidewall in 29x2.25”. I previously had their 26x2.25” tan wall tires on a
 26” build and absolutely loved them on that bike. Unfortunately, in the
 larger size, with the sort of riding I do (spirited, urban, all-road) I
 find the tires sluggish and a bit unpredictable at times. Combined with the
 25mm wide rim I use, the tires measure to close to 60mm wide.

 I was thinking about trying to find a tire with a more rounded profile
 and something that would be a bit narrower, somewhere in the 44-48mm range
 to start.

 I’ve been looking primarily at the Rene Herse tires. I have a friend
 who runs the Pumpkin Ridge (650x42) tire on his bike of a similar purpose
 and absolutely loves them. I’ve used the Naches Pass (26x1.8) on another
 build and also liked them a lot, but found that despite being the
 “endurance” casing, they were very prone to small 

Re: [RBW] Re: Nutmeg Nor'Easter 2023

[Ted W]

One of these years I’ll get up there. Probably once my son can join me.
He’s still doesn’t tolerate the kid seat for more than about 5 miles at a
time.

On Sat, Oct 14, 2023 at 9:56 AM Stephen  wrote:

> Yep that was me!
>
> On Saturday, October 14, 2023 at 9:23:52 AM UTC-4 Justin Kennedy wrote:
>
>>
>> Stephen, i met you outside Luigi’s a couple weeks ago??
>> On Saturday, October 14, 2023 at 9:09:28 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> I’ll be there on the appa!
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 13, 2023 at 7:50:36 PM UTC-4 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Some day…
 Have fun!
 -Kai

 On Friday, October 13, 2023 at 4:07:20 PM UTC-4 Justin Kennedy wrote:

> Hi Patch! see ya there ;-)
>
> On Friday, October 13, 2023 at 3:14:56 PM UTC-4 Patch T wrote:
>
>> MEEE - but you knew that :)
>>
>> Patch in Brooklyn
>>
>> On Friday, October 13, 2023 at 10:16:37 AM UTC-4 Justin Kennedy wrote:
>>
>>> Curious if anyone else from the RBW Owners Bunch will be there this
>>> year. If so, would love to say hello! I'll be on my mermaid Platy.
>>>
>>> Cheers-
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Deal alert: Five Ten cycling shoes on sale ($63)

[Ted W]

For a those who missed the sale and are still looking for something like
these I can’t recommend Ride Concepts “Vice” shoes enough. I ride them with
the MKS monarch pedals and there is no sign of premature wear due to peg
damage. The combination grips so well that I sometimes forget I’m not
clipped.

The sole of the vice is a waffle pattern gum sole (similar to Vans, FiveTen
and other popular, flat pedal mountain bike shoes). The uppers are suede,
but they have more of the texture of the back side of leather IMO than what
I think of as suede. And though not advertised as such, they also seem to
come with some kind of hydrophobic coating coating. I’ve observed water
beading up on the surface of the shoe instead of being absorbed when riding
through puddles.

You can get them for about $100 on Amazon (and I’m sure elsewhere) and for
me they ran about .5 under true to size. I wear a 12.5 in them when I’m
typically a 12.


On Mon, Oct 9, 2023 at 12:00 PM Shannon Menkveld 
wrote:

> Even though the sale is over, I figured I'd chime in on the shoes:
>
> They're the closest thing I've found to the early 80's touring shoes.
>
> The soles (on the basic version, which is what I have) are stiff enough to
> ride hard, road-style, (on the balls of the feet, with clips & straps,) and
> soft enough to do normal off-the-bike things. I've worn them all day at
> work, and it was OK. My understanding is that the higher level ones are
> stiffer, so maybe not as good off the bike?
>
> They come in a 12.5 (US). That's pretty awesome, as I usually have to buy
> 13s because half-sizes stop at 10 or 11.
>
> They don't scream "hey, bro, lookit mah shz!!!1!!"
>
> The combination of 5.10 Freeriders, MKS Urban Platform pedals, Soma
> double-gate toe clips, and Velo-Orange laminated straps is about as good as
> it gets for the combination of foot retention's advantages (which do exist,
> even if they're mostly subjective) and off-the-bike functionality and
> convenience that I've ever had in almost 40 years of road riding. I have
> flats (Odyssey Grandstand V2s) on my around-town bomber bike, but for a
> recreational / touring road bike, I've found my happy place.
>
> The only complaint I have is that the laces are too long, but I've been
> tucking my right  laces into my right shoes since the Reagan
> administration, so that's a pretty minor complaint.
>
> --Shannon
>
> On Tuesday, September 26, 2023 at 7:13:34 AM UTC-7 Rich Lesnik wrote:
>
>> SOLD OUT
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 10:20:54 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> My experience with several pairs of 5/10’s. Fantastic grip & overall
>>> durability. Big, sharp pins without any significant damage to the Stealth
>>> soles. Freerider’s I size up 1/2 size. I can wear a 9 but my 9.5’s are
>>> better. Freerider pro size up at least 1/2 size. I did and it’s a very snug
>>> shoe.
>>> That’s certainly a very good deal.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 25, 2023, at 12:37 PM, Kim H.  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> @Brian,
>>>
>>> Are these shoes true to size ?
>>>
>>> Kim Hetzel.
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 9:35:17 AM UTC-7 Kim H. wrote:
>>>
 @Brain -
 I thank-you for your feedback and information about the FIVE TEN soles.
 I appreciate it.

 Are they waterproof ?  or can they be treated as so ?

 Kim Hetzel, who is currently use my old Merrell Moab Rovers with Vibram
 soles to ride.

 On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 9:26:38 AM UTC-7 Brian Turner wrote:

> Kim, Five Ten soles (in my experience) are quite durable. They are
> known for being popular flat-pedal / mtb shoes, and the rubber is 
> specially
> formulated to be "sticky" in terms of gripping pedals well. I've probably
> had half a dozen pairs of Five Tens over the years and have ridden mostly
> mtb-style pedals, some with aggressive pin configurations. I've never
> experienced the soles getting chewed up by the pins, or any undue wear 
> from
> the pedals with Five Tens. Now, my Blundstone boot soles haven't fared so
> well...
>
> On Mon, Sep 25, 2023 at 12:18 PM Kim H.  wrote:
>
>> My only concern is whether or not my MKS Lambda pedals with
>> extensions would tear up the soles over a short period of time.
>>
>> Kim Hetzel.
>>
>> On Monday, September 25, 2023 at 9:10:15 AM UTC-7 Keith Weaver wrote:
>>
>>> Those do look good, I was thinking this morning that some flat shoes
>>> with less mesh than my Lems could keep my toes warmer on those cool
>>> commutes. Can you comment on how they fit? Would you recommend sizing 
>>> up?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Keith
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 25, 2023 at 8:03 AM Michael Morrissey <
>>> michaelg...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 These Five Ten cycling shoes are on sale at Adidas.com. I just
 ordered another pair. I really really like these shoes for riding, and 
 you
 

Re: [RBW] Re: New Platypus Lug

[Ted W]

YES! I was having hard time figuring out why I didn’t like it. This is
exactly it! I usually LOVE lugged frames, but this lug feel unfinished so o
my eye. As I said before; the fillet made it flow and I think a similar
flow could have been made here with a different shape. But the way the
stays just plug in to the lug, like a plumbing fitting. It just doesn’t
feel like it he same thought was put in to the look as a typical Riv.

On Mon, Oct 9, 2023 at 8:23 AM Brian Turner  wrote:

> It’s a lug that could use a little something to make it look less klunky.
> I’m not a fan of the part that connects the stays… To me it looks like old
> plumbing fittings. If it were shaped a bit more elegantly, it would look so
> much better.
>
> On Oct 9, 2023, at 7:51 AM, DavidP  wrote:
>
> Keith, the BB shell is lugged on the previous model. It's hard to see in
> most photos but the current Platypus page on the Riv site has a photo of a
> bare frame. I've attached a cropped portion of that image.
>
>
> -Dave
>
> On Monday, October 9, 2023 at 6:30:55 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:
>
>>
>> Interesting how our tastes are so individual.  I greatly prefer the
>> lugged joint.  I was looking at the pictures in the newsletter, without
>> consciously noticing what had changed, and thinking to myself:  "why did I
>> dismiss this model until now?  These are just about perfect."  Does anybody
>> know if the bottom bracket shell is lugged?  Tigged?  Fillet brazed?
>> On Sunday, October 8, 2023 at 5:44:36 PM UTC-6 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Gonna say I’m also more a fan on the fillet brazed variant but I can
>>> understand from a cost and production standpoint why they might have
>>> switched, lugs being easier to produce with less skill (relatively
>>> speaking). Shame, though. The fillet brazing on the Gus was one of the big
>>> attractions to me. It really enhances that swoopy, flowy look to me.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 8, 2023 at 3:28 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>>>
 I hadn't noticed this! I liked the fillet brazed junction better too
 but it definitely looked like a pain in the butt to fabricate. The new lug
 (old lug - I am sure Allan's right) does have a clean and tidy look too.  A
 friend's Platy has a pretty noticeable blem in the brazing too, maybe
 evidence it was problematic for Maxway.

 On Sunday, 8 October 2023 at 06:54:04 UTC-7 Marc Irwin wrote:

> Cost was probably involved.  The fillet brazing on the original
> Platypus would be very time consuming and more difficult in a factory
> setting than connecting a few tubes with lug.
>
> Marc
>
> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 5:50:25 PM UTC-4 allan@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> [image: 0F3B224F-E805-48D6-9A22-8F51C4323F9C.jpeg]Perhaps they
>> dusted off the Betty Foy/Yves Gomez lug…
>>
>> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 3:23:46 PM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:
>>
>>> Looks like the new run of Platy's are getting a lugged top/seat
>>> tube, where as the previous models were welded. Very nice.
>>
>> --
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>
> <2022-platy-bb.png>
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: New Platypus Lug

[Ted W]

Gonna say I’m also more a fan on the fillet brazed variant but I can
understand from a cost and production standpoint why they might have
switched, lugs being easier to produce with less skill (relatively
speaking). Shame, though. The fillet brazing on the Gus was one of the big
attractions to me. It really enhances that swoopy, flowy look to me.

On Sun, Oct 8, 2023 at 3:28 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:

> I hadn't noticed this! I liked the fillet brazed junction better too but
> it definitely looked like a pain in the butt to fabricate. The new lug (old
> lug - I am sure Allan's right) does have a clean and tidy look too.  A
> friend's Platy has a pretty noticeable blem in the brazing too, maybe
> evidence it was problematic for Maxway.
>
> On Sunday, 8 October 2023 at 06:54:04 UTC-7 Marc Irwin wrote:
>
>> Cost was probably involved.  The fillet brazing on the original Platypus
>> would be very time consuming and more difficult in a factory setting than
>> connecting a few tubes with lug.
>>
>> Marc
>>
>> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 5:50:25 PM UTC-4 allan@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> [image: 0F3B224F-E805-48D6-9A22-8F51C4323F9C.jpeg]Perhaps they dusted
>>> off the Betty Foy/Yves Gomez lug…
>>>
>>> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 3:23:46 PM UTC-4 CoalTrain wrote:
>>>
 Looks like the new run of Platy's are getting a lugged top/seat tube,
 where as the previous models were welded. Very nice.
>>>
>>> --
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> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

Thanks for the link, Brian. I’m adding that to the collection of bookmarks
under “bicycle related calculators. It’s so funny how they’re all so
different given very similar information. It just goes to show you how
subjective ride feel can be and how many factors have an effect.

I’ve linked the other two calculators below for the curious:

Silca calculator:
https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form

SRAM calculator:
https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure

Between all of these, Silca has always proven most reliable… but again,
it’s highly subjective. I do like that there are additional parameters you
can tweak on theirs, though. Jan’s seems a little too cookie cutter.


On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 10:41 AM Brian Turner  wrote:

> I think I’ve run probably 5 sets of Rene Herse tires over the years; both
> with tubes and tubeless. I’ve actually found that I’ve had good luck
> referring to Jan’s tire pressure recommendations using his calculator,
> found here:
> Tire Pressure Calculator
> 
> renehersecycles.com
> 
> [image: ReneHerseLogo_r.png]
> 
> 
>
> Like I said, I’ve used this and it’s worked pretty well for me, especially
> because I like to ride my bikes loaded down with gear. I also appreciate
> the meticulous, scientific approach that Jan takes to cycling. It’s not for
> everyone, but I kinda like it.
>
> On Oct 7, 2023, at 10:30 AM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
> 
>
> This is very interesting. I use the extralight Naches Pass at 30-35 and
> 35-40 f/r depending on load, and I feel no flop or sidewall collapse; not
> until pressures drop below 20 psi. The NPs do feel more staid, less nimble
> in turn-in than the 28 mm Elk Pass, this on the same bikes, but not at all
> squirrelly. They do make those "rubbing" sounds a bit, though.
>
> I wonder if front-end geometry has a lot to do with it? I've used the
> Naches Passes on road customs with, possibly, steeper, more agressive
> geometry than those ridden by the OPs; one of the bikes was Grant designed
> and the other is a geometrical and dimensional near-clone of a Grant design.
>
> Or rider weight? I'm 170-175, but then I often carry heavy-ish loads on
> the bike in question.
>
> What does feel a bit squirmy, not squirrelly, is the Soma Supple Vitesse
> SL 48s, even at a relatively hard 25 psi; it's as if the rubber is somehow
> soft and needs to harden. The tire makes "eraser on plastic" sounds when
> turning; *but* far from feeling squirrelly these tires (labeled 48,
> measure 51 on 35 mm OW rims) have transformed the handling of the Matthews
> #1 into the much more Riv-Road-like handling I wanted compared to the
> vagueness in turns of the ultralight 60 mm Big Ones.
>
> On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 8:08 AM Chris L  wrote:
>
>> *" felt like the front just flipped over on itself"*
>>
>> That's a good description for what mine feels like.  I also notice they
>> get really loud on sharp turns/curves when the tire is inflated to the psi
>> that causes the bad handling.  The front tire doesn't do that when it's
>> aired up very hard, but that largely negates the benefit of having a fat,
>> supple tire.  I could run Big Apples at a much lower pressure and get the
>> cushion effect without the squirrely front end handling, but they are just
>> so heavy and both had a wobble in them, from the day I got them.  Not the
>> first Schwalbe tires I've owned that wobbled, so I'm wary of the entire
>> brand, now.
>>
>> On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 10:44:23 PM UTC-5 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> That squirrelly feeling is another thing I noticed with the Naches Pass
>>> on my Surly. It was actually the cause of a crash I had on that bike. Front
>>> end got all squirrelly on me mid corner and it felt like the front just
>>> flipped over on itself... I always attributed it to having stretched out
>>> the fit on a too-small frame (I’m 6’1” and bought a 54cm Long Haul Trucker
>>> to be able to have it in 26” wheels) and the us having shifted my center of
>>> gravity too far off the where the frame intended but having now heard a
>>> couple people here mention the feeling on the same slick tires, I’m
>>> wondering if it’s not the tires on more “touring” geometry frames, that
>>> pneumatic vs geometric trail thing that was mentioned earlier. Very
>>> interesting indeed!
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Bike Shop Misadventures

[Ted W]

There is one shop, and until recently, ONE PERSON at that shop in town who
I trusted with my Rivs (well, until they left the shop to pursue other
ventures). They also know me very well and know that I prefer to do all my
own work and when I bring something to them, it’s always a fun problem.
Typically I come in to pick up parts but not for service, they’ve been very
generous letting me piggy back like that on their QBP account to get stuff
I was having trouble finding otherwise.

I’ve had my fair share of misadventures with shops, unfortunately. It’s all
too common, particularly in big name shops that SPECIALIZE in particular
brands (I don’t want to point fingers, they’re just very SPECIALIZED in
their knowledge). Also common to find kids working in shops that are just
doing a summer job and don’t really know bikes too well (yet).

Once you find a good shop that knows their stuff, treat them like the
precious gem they are. Pay them respectfully for their time and expertise
and tell everyone you can about them so they stay in business.


On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 9:27 AM Ryan  wrote:

> I can totally relate.i took my all-rounder wheels in for servicing and
> they lost the rear quick release from the Mavic 501 hubs.try finding
> another one.nope.i was not best pleased needless to say.
>
> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 8:07:31 AM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> Is this your first time with Ultradynamicos? I am curious what your
>> thoughts will be. I have tried twice with them now and ultimately just
>> never clicked with them. What style did you go with? The Cava? Race? JFF?
>>
>> On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 11:43:52 PM UTC-4 mmille...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> This is a wonderful story. No judgements from me. I think we are all
>>> lucky to share in your humility, graciousness and wonderful storytelling. I
>>> hope you get the pretty red Platy back soon.
>>> Matt in STL
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 9:46:36 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I have a long and storied history of bike shop misadventures. If I
 heard my tales secondhand, I would believe that I, Leah Peterson, am the
 problem, as I am the common denominator. But I make you a solemn promise
 that I can’t see how. And I am gracious, even in the misadventures. But
 they always happen. You can count on it.

 There are 2 shops in town. One well-established, the one I always
 patronize. My bikes are oddballs there, but they never point that out.
 Great shop. Best I have had in years. I’ve had some misadventures there,
 but I caught the mistakes and the shop fixed them. Minor stuff. The other
 shop is in a downtrodden part of town, and they work on a lot of beater
 bikes. BUT, they know all about Bridgestone and Mount Tam and a little of
 Rivendell and they revere it all. My son’s Future College Clem was
 assembled by them, and the mechanic greased every bolt. He saw all the fine
 points of that frame and mentioned them. He even met Grant once at a
 conference/bike show. He took his time with the Clem and I really respected
 his work. That shop doesn’t work on a lot of high-end bikes, and they are
 eager to see beautiful steel bikes like Rivendells.

 The Racing Platy has a lot of miles on it by now. It needed: a tune-up,
 new chain, new cassette, possibly new tires, new brake pads, pedals
 rebuilt, and to be inspected for anything else. When you have a Lifetime
 Bike, you must keep it tip-top so it lasts.

 Because I wanted a thorough tune up, and because they had so fussed
 over our Clem, I called the shop and asked if they would service my
 Rivendell. “Don’t tempt ME with a good time!” Rob said.* (Rob is not his
 real name.)

 I drove there, wheeled the bike to the entrance and Rob and an employee
 are smoking something outside. Red flag number one. I feel an urge to turn
 on my heel. Maybe I’m mistaken; I decide to keep an open mind. We go
 inside. The mechanic who assembled our Clem is not here. The shop is in
 tatters as Rob is moving locations. The other man comes by with a pile of
 metal rods and nearly bashes them into my Platypus. I cringe. Rob says
 he’ll have the bike done in 48 hours. I’ve provided most of the parts, but
 will need cassette and chain. I ask him to keep the gearing I have - it’s
 my club ride bike and the gearing is perfect. No changes, please.

 Rob calls me on Wed to tell me he has this cassette laying around that
 isn’t the same but should work. I decline, telling him that the bike is
 DIALED. I agree to wait a couple days while he places an order.

 But I don’t hear from Rob. So, I call him today. Rob is nervous. Rob is
 apologetic. Rob has a sick kid and 400 interruptions.

 Rob has not gotten anything done.

 “I don’t know how to do tubeless,” he admits. “The guy I had coming to
 rebuild your 

Re: [RBW] Re: Recommendations on a budget 700c wheelset?

[Ted W]

Thank you both for your suggestions, I’ve contacted Velo Mine to see if
they have anything similar to Cliffhangers in size but more like Wheel
Master in price. We’ll see what they say!

On Sat, Oct 7, 2023 at 8:42 AM Garth  wrote:

> Yes, Velo Mine has lots of different sets. At the lower end they're
> straight gauge DT spokes but that doesn't render them useless. They'll
> likely need some fine tuning and all that, but they're all great buys for
> your purpose. I suspect some of their wheels are the same as the other
> wheels from the likes of Wheel Shop, Wheelmaster and QBP's Value and HD
> series. They're machine built imported their respective distributors and
> sold at various outlets.
> On Saturday, October 7, 2023 at 7:53:46 AM UTC-4 weste...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Ted,
>>
>> Velomine might be a good source -- they have a number of options on their
>> site as well as on eBay.
>>
>> One that looks to be a bit over $100 with a matching front wheel is this
>> one:   https://tinyurl.com/s5rs85ru
>>
>> Julian Westerhout
>> Bloomington, IL
>>
>> On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 9:59:46 PM UTC-5 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Im in need of a “cheap” 700/29er (ISO 622-20 or wider) wheelset as a
>>> spare set but I’ve been struggling to find any good second hand wheelsets
>>> that meet my needs and it seems most modern wheels in this size are either
>>> disc brake only or disc and thu-axle now.
>>>
>>> Anyone have suggestions for a 700/29” wheel with an internal width of at
>>> least 20mm that is rim brake compatible AND comes in a 10spd+ hub?
>>>
>>> I know I can get what I need for I’m Velocity, but I was hoping to not
>>> drop that kind of money on this since I’ll just be using them as spares to
>>> swap between experimental builds.
>>>
>> --
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[RBW] Recommendations on a budget 700c wheelset?

[Ted W]

Im in need of a “cheap” 700/29er (ISO 622-20 or wider) wheelset as a spare
set but I’ve been struggling to find any good second hand wheelsets that
meet my needs and it seems most modern wheels in this size are either disc
brake only or disc and thu-axle now.

Anyone have suggestions for a 700/29” wheel with an internal width of at
least 20mm that is rim brake compatible AND comes in a 10spd+ hub?

I know I can get what I need for I’m Velocity, but I was hoping to not drop
that kind of money on this since I’ll just be using them as spares to swap
between experimental builds.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Are Paul brakes worth the money?

[Ted W]

That noise is typical of a he salmon pads that ship on Paul brakes. salmon
pads stop really well but I’ve had several pair on different bikes and
different brake styles and after a bit they all started to make noise no
matter how I adjusted them. I’ve also found that Paul Motolites in
particular do not like having racks mounted to them. This made any existing
brake noise multiples worse I assume due to the two sides being more rigid
mounted together allowing for different resonance to occur and generate
more noise. This was particularly apparent on my Gus I assume due to its
unique front end geometry.

My opinion on the Paul Motolites is mixed. On the one hand, they’re
beautiful and the quick release mechanism is nice compared to typical
v-brakes with the noodle holding it all together. The adjustment mechanism
is also a work of arm and does make adjusting for different when sizes a
bit nicer. However, I’m not sure they’re worth the money purely on the
basis of function. To me they’re like a designer handbag. They make a nice
accessory when paired with other nice accessories and a good outfit they
can be stunning. But at the end of the day, a $5 handbag holds stuff as
well as a $300 handbag. My $30 Shimano Alivio v-brakes stop my Appaloosa
just as well as the $300 Motolites on my Gus. But my Gus is my pretty show
bike that I take out on the town on a Sunny Saturday to get things at the
farmer’s market. My Appaloosa is my daily driver. I lock it up outside of
stores and restaurants and ride it, rain or shine, to work 5 days a week.
It’s still a nice bike but the parts on it are more utilitarian in nature.
The frame is the flashiest piece of kit on the whole bike and I like it
that way.

On Fri, Oct 6, 2023 at 10:24 PM Julian Westerhout 
wrote:

> Bill,
>
> Which brakes are they?  Which pads are you using? Are they properly
> slightly toed in?
>
> Photos would help in making a diagnosis -- but I doubt the squawking is
> due to the brakes themselves -- more likely to be pad type and/or setup.
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL
>
> On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 7:54:00 PM UTC-5 Bill Fulford wrote:
>
>> I bought Paul brakes for my Atlantis and initially loved them. Now,
>> however, they squawk like a stuck goose. I’ve cleaned the rims, sanded the
>> pads but with no success. They were installed by a bike shop so I don’t
>> think that’s the problem. It’s embarrassing to ride at times. I’m looking
>> for suggestions to ease the noise. Thanks in advance. Bill
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 10, 2023 at 9:58:13 AM UTC-5 Bill Schairer wrote:
>>
>>> I have a set of cantilevers and a set of center pulls, both purchased
>>> used off this list, I think.  What I really like about both sets is how
>>> easy it is to disconnect and re-connect the straddle cables making wheel
>>> removal and installation so much easier.  Even though I didn't pay full
>>> retail they were still quite pricey compared to what I had.  I don't regret
>>> my purchases at all.
>>>
>>> Bill S
>>> San Diego
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 9:29:03 AM UTC-8 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Paul brakes are worth it.

 If you buy, try and decide you don't like them you can sell them for
 close to what you paid!

 On Monday, January 9, 2023 at 12:22:34 PM UTC-5 Jay Riley wrote:

> PS: I'll always keep hydro brakes on the dual-suspension mtn bike.
> They're cool!  The braking assignment is short, severe braking loads, as
> opposed to braking loads on a road or touring bike.
>
>
> Jay
>
> Jay Riley, mobile 603-498-5199 <(603)%20498-5199>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 8:44 PM Jay Riley  wrote:
>
>> "the extra complication (bleeding) over the cable Pauls" has sent me
>> back to cables and calipers on 2 of my bikes.  Especially if I'm in hilly
>> and mountainous terrain, especially especially when touring with moderate
>> loads (35lbs) in that terrain, disc-brake pads wear out way faster than 
>> ol'
>> fashioned brake pads.  Hydraulic discs are super easy to squeeze and
>> modulate, and although my thumbs are already arthritic I can still stop
>> just fine w'cable brakes.
>>
>> Jay
>>
>> Jay Riley, mobile 603-498-5199 <(603)%20498-5199>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 8:24 PM Patrick Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, good to know.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jan 5, 2023 at 6:06 PM Joe Bernard 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Klampers are great, the couple hydraulic systems I've tried (stock
 on new bikes, I don't remember the brands) were marginally greater on 
 the
 road but not worth the extra complication (bleeding) over the cable 
 Pauls.
 Your results may vary on steep, rocky descents I don't ride.

 Joe Bernard

 On Thursday, January 5, 2023 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore
 wrote:

> Philip: Can you (or can anyone 

Re: [RBW] Re: "A Steamy Lug Affair" by Grant Petersen

[Ted W]

Funny you should mention this I have a couple different 3D printers, one
that prints in resin which is perfect for making positive molds for stuff
like this because the end product has very fine layer lines, and i was
thinking about how I would design my own lugs… I think you just gave me
some ideas!

On Thu, Oct 5, 2023 at 4:58 PM aeroperf  wrote:

> I keep thinking it might be easier now (2023) to do a lugged frame than it
> was 10 years ago because…
> You can design the frame with a CAD program, design the lugs with the same
> program, and print the lugs using a 3-D printer.  If you don’t print the
> steel lugs themselves, you can use the 3-D printer to print a wax lug,
> which you can then cast in steel.
> Suddenly, everything fits.  The lug fits the geometry of the tubing.  If
> you make a bigger or smaller frame, it won’t be “we only have lugs for a
> 55Cm, but this is a 60Cm”, because the printer can just print the correct
> lug.
>
> Having spent 45 years working in aviation, I know that the skills
> required  to weld/braze thin walled steel tubing are every bit as demanding
> as brazing on a lug.  And the CAD tools today are outstanding.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: "A Steamy Lug Affair" by Grant Petersen

[Ted W]

That's a really nice piece and he's right about all of it. I have two
hobbies, bicycles and woodworking. In both cases, my eye is drawn to those
"inefficient" details and it's what I love most about both of them.

With bicycles, it's the consistency of a fillet braze from someone who has
spent decades honing their craft. It's the lugged frames with their sharp
points, transitions and painted outlines and accents that tell the story of
someone who actually laid their hands on the frame during its production
and cared about the aesthetics of the outcome, even in areas where most
people may not even look, such as under the top tube or bottom brackets.
Or, in the case of custom bikes, the choice of tubing and how its diameter
and thickness were taken into account with the rider's size, weight and
preferred riding style to make a bike that becomes more an extension of the
body rather than a vehicle atop which the body sits and controls.

With woodworking, you can see this same beauty in the "imperfections" and
small details in a piece of furniture. The surface marks left by a hand
plane, a rasp or a mallet can not be reproduced by a "perfect" machine and
you know someone spent time and poured sweat into the production of the
piece, using their eye as the guide instead of a formula. You can see it in
a dovetail that has a tiny gap which exposes that no automated machine cut
the pins and tails. It can be found in how the grain of multiple boards in
a glue-up are aligned or alternating to make a pleasing pattern or fluid
pattern.

In both of these areas, beauty extends beyond the immediately visible and
into the experience; exposed over time through working on, riding and using
the end product. These are all indications that somebody took pride in
their work and that they weren't just trying to increase margins with
mechanized efficiency but actually care not just about the object being
made but about the experience of those who will continue to use it for
years and decades in the future.

On Wed, Oct 4, 2023 at 5:44 PM John Rinker  wrote:

> That was a fun read. Thanks, Eric! I totally align with the idea that
> making functional things beautiful can make the experience of using them so
> much more pleasurable.
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 8:02:46 AM UTC-7 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone — I was going through some of my many stacks of Riv ephemera
>> and found this short article written by Grant and published in the August,
>> 1999 issue of Bicycling magazine.
>>
>> Enjoy!
>>
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-- 
Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >

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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

Thanks for your thoughts, Eric!

I'm definitely aware of the RH price pain, it's one of the main reasons I
hesitated to get the second set after the experience I had with the Naches
Pass on my Surly. I believe the total after shipping came close to that
$200 mark you mentioned for your Snoqualmie ELs. I'm interested in your
suggestion about the Antelope HIll tires, though... It's quite possible
that at the time I was riding the Naches Pass tires, I was still new to
tubeless setups and may have been running them at a higher pressure and
thus exposing them more readily to punctures. I have since begun running my
Super Yummys somewhere just above 25lbs (not a super accurate pump) and
have noticed that I've had fewer pinhole punctures, and less sealant
"weeping" out from between the treads than I did on the previous pair of
Super Yummys I had when I was running around 35lbs.

Also thought to mention, I do run these tubeless. It's one of my
concesionssions to modernity on these otherwise retro grouch-y bikes;
tubeless tires and clipless pedals. I've really come to love the self
healing ability of sealant filled tires and the luxury of being able to
repair larger holes with plugs, negating the need for a spare tube but
still permitting the addition of a tube in my pack for longer self
supported adventures. Clipless pedals are a carry over from my criterium
racing days. I've ridden them for so long that it feels like I've forgotten
something every time I've tried to swap to flats on any bike except a true
town cruiser.

On Wed, Oct 4, 2023 at 11:31 AM Eric Marth  wrote:

> Hi Ted — I like Rene Herse tires but refrain from recommending them simply
> because they're so darn expensive and the benefits of the casing might not
> be appreciated by all. I would just hate for someone to think "Eric
> recommended these expensive tires and I don't like 'em!" While I do enjoy
> them and stick with them I hesitate to tell anyone "You should run these
> tires!" Looks like you have some RH experience. If I was running the Super
> Yummys I'd be tempted to try the Antelope Hill...
>
> I run the Rene Herse Antelope Hill 700x55 with endurance casing on my 54cm
> Appaloosa. I've had one flat in the past two years of riding paved roads,
> gravel roads, dirt and trails. They're pretty fun! I enjoy riding them on
> long rides with lots of climbing and paved and unpaved surfaces. Feels
> great up on my Appaloosa, the Original Steel Couch. I also find all the
> volume to be pretty nice running errands and doing stuff around town.
>
> On my Hillborne I run the Rene Herse Snoqualmie Pass 700x44. I've ridden
> standard casing and the extra-lights. Much prefer the feel and speed of the
> extra-lights though they are a bit more prone to punctures. Had plenty of
> flats with the standard casing as well. Almost always from road debris,
> glass specifically, though I have picked up thorns and wire.
>
> In terms of feel the RHs are great tires, especially in the EL and
> Endurance casings. I think the standard casing is just so-so. And again,
> the price is quite painful. I recently got a new set of Snoqualmie ELs for
> the Hillborne and it was $200 after shipping.
>
> My sample size is limited, I've only run Rene Herse tires on my
> Rivendells.
> On Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 10:10:32 AM UTC-4 thetaper...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I just installed "cool weather boots" on my Atlantis, a set of Soma
>> Cazadero 700x50. I do love the handling with these tires compared to the
>> Soma SV 700x42s that were just on. It feels even more planted and solid
>> with the wider rubber, which is great for the time of year when cold and
>> wet come into play.
>>
>> Nick
>> Falls Church VA
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 10:03:34 AM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 3, 2023 at 3:27:09 PM UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Over the last few months, I've flatted three or four times on the RHes;
>>> clearly, the tread has worn thin. I was discussing the issue with a
>>> repairman at one of the local bike kitchens. He mentioned that GK Slicks
>>> hold up fine, but it takes a while for the rubber to cure - several months,
>>> or several hundred miles. Although that's in keeping with bike tire
>>> traditions ("inflate your new tubulars on a rim and age them over the
>>> winter" et al), it had never occurred to me that my shiny-new tires might
>>> take a period of aging to be fully ready for road use. I've reinstalled the
>>> GKs and put about 250 miles on them without incident. Maybe the intervening
>>> 20 months has aged the rubber enough to stand up to small road hazards?
>>> Fingers crossed...
>>>
>>>
>>> That seems unlikely to be true. As for your unluckiness with flats, I
>>> think that's just a run of bad luck (running over glass at night). I have
>>> not noticed that new tires puncture any less frequently than old tires. I
>>> regularly run tires until the rubber wears away and I can see the nylon
>>> cords below.  

Re: [RBW] Re: Build in progress

[Ted W]

If you’ve got a good source of “brass bits” on EBay, please share the link
to the seller. I’ve been looking around for some parts for a while.

On Wed, Oct 4, 2023 at 8:20 AM Old And In The Weeds <
oldandinthewe...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yo Eliot! Nick here from Facebook. dt adjusters are from Crust w springs
> from McMaster Carr (can get part number if anyone is interested). The
> mounting screws are sourced off Ebay.
>
> On Wednesday, October 4, 2023, Eliot Balogh  wrote:
>
>> Off to a great start! Where did you get those barrel adjusters and
>> mounting bolts ?
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 3, 2023 at 7:07 PM Old And In The Weeds <
>> oldandinthewe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> 56cm Atlantis 2 with 26" wheels. Taking my time
>>> on this one!
>>>
>>> Nick
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Build in progress

[Ted W]

Pardon my ignorance but how are you running 26” wheels? I was unaware that
the Atlantis ever came I’m a size with that option. Is it spec’d for 650B
and running 26” or was there a time when the Atlantis was 26”?

On Wed, Oct 4, 2023 at 12:34 AM Eliot Balogh  wrote:

> Off to a great start! Where did you get those barrel adjusters and
> mounting bolts ?
>
> On Tue, Oct 3, 2023 at 7:07 PM Old And In The Weeds <
> oldandinthewe...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> 56cm Atlantis 2 with 26" wheels. Taking my time
>> on this one!
>>
>> Nick
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

Jeremy,

You make a good point about the geometric and pneumatic trail and the
possibility that Grant designed his frames around a knobbier, more general
purpose, tire thus building the frames with more geometric trail. I’d love
to ask Grant that question to know if it was happy coincidence that they
ended up that way or if the design choice was really that intentional.

On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 4:22 PM Jeremy Till  wrote:

> On my Rivendells I've noticed that, irrespective of the surface I'm riding
> on, I actually prefer the handling with larger knobby tires than with
> larger slick tires. This is true on both my Clem H (2016, first-gen) with
> 45-55mm tires and my Rambouillet (green, ~2006 as far as I can tell) with
> 36-38mm tires. My explanation for this is that Grant tends to design bikes
> with larger geometric trail. When you add in the pneumatic trail of larger
> slick tires, the whole thing can feel harder to turn. Knobby tires give you
> the same shock absorption while putting less rubber on the pavement, thus
> reducing the pneumatic trail. Jan Heine has noted this effect himself when
> comparing knobby and slick versions of his tires.
>
> My Rambouillet current wears RH (actually Compass, they're a few years
> old) Steilacoom 700x38 knobbies. My Clem H has 29x2.2 Specialized Fast
> Traks with the "Control" casing, which is an XC-oriented MTB tire with
> relatively minimal knobs that rolls well on pavement. In my experience
> there is no free lunch when it comes to supple casings and flats. Certainly
> the ride is better with things like the RH standard casing but my rate of
> flatting from glass and thorns goes up. Sealant and tubeless haven't been
> the solution, in my experience, and I run both of my Rivendells with
> tubes.
>
> Since Patrick was also mentioning them I will say that I've used both the
> 700x42 and 700x38 versions of the Soma Supple Vitesse EX on my Long Haul
> Trucker, which seems to handle better with large slicks than my Rivendells.
> Those are good tires with an acceptable flat rate for me. I also tried the
> 700x38 SL version on my Rambouillet and found that not only did I not like
> the handling, but the flat rate was excessive for me. Note that the only
> difference between the EX and SL Supple Vitesses is the thickness of the
> tread, with the EX having thicker treads. Unlike RH and other brands there
> is no difference in the casing between the lightweight and longer wearing
> versions. I believe that the Shikiro is the same tread as the Supple
> Vitesse EX with a heavier duty casing.
>
> Jeremy Till
> Sacramento, CA
>
> On Monday, October 2, 2023 at 8:26:17 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I’ve had tires on the brain this last week. I was thinking I might want
>> to try something a little narrower on my Appaloosa so I’ve been a bit
>> absorbed with that thought.
>>
>> At the moment I run the SimWorks Super Yummy tire with the black sidewall
>> in 29x2.25”. I previously had their 26x2.25” tan wall tires on a 26” build
>> and absolutely loved them on that bike. Unfortunately, in the larger size,
>> with the sort of riding I do (spirited, urban, all-road) I find the tires
>> sluggish and a bit unpredictable at times. Combined with the 25mm wide rim
>> I use, the tires measure to close to 60mm wide.
>>
>> I was thinking about trying to find a tire with a more rounded profile
>> and something that would be a bit narrower, somewhere in the 44-48mm range
>> to start.
>>
>> I’ve been looking primarily at the Rene Herse tires. I have a friend who
>> runs the Pumpkin Ridge (650x42) tire on his bike of a similar purpose and
>> absolutely loves them. I’ve used the Naches Pass (26x1.8) on another build
>> and also liked them a lot, but found that despite being the “endurance”
>> casing, they were very prone to small punctures and didn’t handle the
>> typical road debris around where I ride very well; this is one of the
>> reasons I’ve typically stuck with knobbier tires.
>>
>> The ones on my short list are currently the  Manatash Ridge (700x42) and
>> Oracle Ridge (700x48) tires from RH.
>>
>> I’m curious to know and see what others on the list use and have liked.
>> If you have pictures, I’d also love to see what they look like
>> (particularly 42mm on frames like the Appaloosa).
>>
>> — Ted
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

I’m not sure I’d say meager but I am curious to see what a skinnier tire on
an Appa made to house some chunky tires would look like with something a
bit smaller. Oddly, I searched around before posting the question here and
found examples at the extreme ends with some wearing 30-35mm tires and
others with the “typical” 50-55s but a surprising lack of examples fitted
with tires in the 44-48mm range which really just has me wondering why that
was.

Regarding the Gravel Kings I had the 32mm SS tires on my road bike for a
time and they did feel nice. My only complaint about them is the same as
with the smooth RH tires; they get little pinhole punctures. The SKs look
nice, and I’ve heard good things. Main issue in the past had been
availability. They were hard to find the last few years, maybe that’s
changed now that supply chains have normalized a bit and the COVID bike
boom has slowed.

On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 8:46 PM DavidP  wrote:

> My Platypus has Gravel King SK 700x50s under VO 63mm fenders. On
> Cliffhanger rims the tires measure a true 2". I've found the Gravel King
> SKs to be surprisingly good on pavement - comparable to RH endurance casing
> knobbies - and to have plenty of traction for dirt trails. It sounds like
> you are wanting a more road oriented tire/width, maybe the Gravel King SS
> in 700x43 would suit. If you're worried about a 42-48mm tire looking too
> meager, throw some fenders on - they'll hide the skinny tire, fill the
> space, and keep you and the bike dry and clean.
>
> My (non-Riv) rough stuff road bike has 650x48s; a smooth Paris Moto rear
> and a knobby RH Juniper Ridge up front. The front knobby has kept traction
> through slick mud patches that caused the rear to slide a bit. I quite like
> the combination (it at least feels a bit more optimized in my mind)
> compared to knobby front and back. This bike is setup tubeless in the back
> to help with punctures.
>
> -Dave
>
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Re: [RBW] What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

> I saw this again:
*There is a pervasive myth that thin, "supple" tire sidewalls are essential
to a smooth and cushy ride. That is misleading at best, bullshit at worst.
For a given tire volume and inflation pressure, a thinner tire casing will
obviously flex more. But that also means that for any degree of rim
protection (from bottoming out), you have to inflate it harder. For any
given degree of measurable cush, you don't have to inflate a stiffer tire
as much. Maybe 5psi less. This will give you the same absorption over a
bump, and a more cut-resistant and sun-resistant tire. *>
> I have conscientiously pursued supple tire Nirvana years and I've been
able to compare a fair number of supple, more supple, and less supple
tires, and while as always YMMAWV, I conclude that thin, supple sidewalls
do make a huge difference despite the reality that, yes, they require more
air pressure and don't always feel smoother than thicker tires at lower
pressures, *but* they also don't have that "how did I end up riding in
molasses?" feel of thick tires at pressures low enough not to be jarring.

Grant is a very highly opinionated person and, like all highly opinionated
people, should have their opinions considered with a healthy dose of salt
on the side. I definitely agree with his "fuss less, ride more" mentality
of bikes but there are definitely some aspects that I've also come to
believe, for my own style of riding, make more of a difference than he
gives credit; tires are one such area where I will have to agree to
disagree with Grant.

I recently finished reading Jan's book The All-Road Bike Revolution and
have read numerous studies by Silca on the effects of tire design and air
pressure. The views expressed by these two sources more closely mirror my
own experience and opinions on the subject. And while I don't think tires
and tire pressure are the *only* things that should be considered, I think
tires are one of the most important, interchangeable components on a
bicycle that impacts the overall feel of the bike on a given surface so it
makes sense to put more thought and attention in to it when all other bases
are covered (bike fit, etc.).

I've ridden very comfortable, thick wall tires (WTB Thick Slicks, for those
curious) as well as a number of different "performance" tires for both road
and gravel and I can say with absolute certainty that you can definitely
find comfortable tires with thicker sidewalls and less "supple"
construction, but they are the exception. You will be hard pressed to be
disappointed by the ride quality (not accounting for other factors) of a
tire designed with a thinner, and more flexible sidewall.

On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 2:15 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I just read from the RBW page and remembered that I'd read it and
> considered the Shikoros before. I take it that the Shikoros are perhaps
> more like Jack Brown Greens than like RH extralights.
>
> I saw this again: *There is a pervasive myth that thin, "supple" tire
> sidewalls are essential to a smooth and cushy ride. That is misleading at
> best, bullshit at worst. For a given tire volume and inflation pressure, a
> thinner tire casing will obviously flex more. But that also means that for
> any degree of rim protection (from bottoming out), you have to inflate it
> harder. For any given degree of measurable cush, you don't have to inflate
> a stiffer tire as much. Maybe 5psi less. This will give you the same
> absorption over a bump, and a more cut-resistant and sun-resistant tire. *
>
> I have conscientiously pursued supple tire Nirvana years and I've been
> able to compare a fair number of supple, more supple, and less supple
> tires, and while as always YMMAWV, I conclude that thin, supple sidewalls
> do make a huge difference despite the reality that, yes, they require more
> air pressure and don't always feel smoother than thicker tires at lower
> pressures, *but* they also don't have that "how did I end up riding in
> molasses?" feel of thick tires at pressures low enough not to be jarring.
>
> I know, I recall swapping out 60 mm Schwalbe Big Apples for 60 mm Big Ones
> (the lightest model) and being disappointed that I had to pump the BOs to
> close to 20 psi versus the 15 I'd put in the BAs. 20 psi in paper thin
> supple tires means that they do ride no more smoothly over bumps than 15
> psi heavy tires, but OTOH, the rolling quality is so far superior to forego
> comparison.
>
> So sure, you can get a smooth ride with thick tires; I did with 622 X 60
> and 559 X 60 Big Apples at 15 psi. But handling and rolling resistance ...?
> Sorry.
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 11:21 AM Ted W  wrote:
>
>> For what it's worth, RE: Shikoros, I was going off what Riv carries on
>> the site:
>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/soma-shiko

Re: [RBW] WTB: Paul rack adapters

[Ted W]

Hey, Brian,

I've got a set of these that I no longer use but I've misplaced the
original bolts so I can't get rid of them until I either find them or a
suitable replacement. If you, or anyone on the list, are able to help with
that I'd be happy to part with them for a reasonable price.

On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 12:33 PM Brian Turner  wrote:

> If you're sitting on a pair of these and wish to let them go, I'd be
> interested! I already have one set, but need another.
>
> Thanks!
> Brian
> Lexington KY
>
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-- 
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Re: [RBW] What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

For what it's worth, RE: Shikoros, I was going off what Riv carries on the
site:
https://www.rivbike.com/products/soma-shikoro-tires?variant=31799845519471

On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 1:14 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Ted: I hadn't heard of the Shikoros; thanks. I looked the, up on Soma's
> site and also called up some reviews. Apparently the fattest ones are only
> 42 mm wide, and while the reviews were positive they weren't ecstatic as
> they were for the Supple Vitesse SL. The Shikoro is apparently more of a
> commuter tire with a puncture belt and therefore rather heavy (360 grams
> for the SSV SL, 450 grams for the fatter 60 mm Big One lightweight model).
> I prefer ultra supple and ultralight tires even on my errand bikes and have
> done well on them by riding with care and using good sealant. (I used to
> commute 15 or 16 miles 1-way across town on rough pavement with loads on
> 200 gram Specialized 26 X 1" Turbos and had fewer flats than with 240 gram
> 26 X 1.25 Paselas.)
>
> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 10:38 AM Ted W  wrote:
>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> The SSVSLs remind me of the Soma Shikoros that are currently available up
>> to 700x48. Have you ever ridden these for comparison? They were originally
>> on my list but I'd written them off due to the lack of tread (and in my
>> mind, the associated puncture resistance).
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 12:20 PM Patrick Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Eliot: I've considered the Snoqualmies as an alternative to my
>>>  no-longer-made Soma Supple Vitesse SLs (of which I have a small stash).
>>> The Somas are labeled 48 and measure 51.5 mm on my Blunt SS 35 mm OW rims
>>> and 50 seems a sweet spot for this bike.
>>>
>>> How wide do your SPs measure in real world mms, and on what width of rim
>>> and at what tire pressure?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Patrick
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 9:46 AM Eliot Balogh 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I LOVE the Snoqualmie Pass 700x44 EL tires. I had some issues with
>>>> leakage but it ended up being a tape issue and now they’re perfect. They
>>>> have unbelievable rolling resistance and ride feel. They’re the best
>>>> balance of speed and suppleness that seem to roll as fast as a skinny but
>>>> have the suppleness of a fatty. I will cry long and hard if I ever have to
>>>> give up on them (longevity isn’t great and some can be fussy tubeless). It
>>>> sounds like you want some knobby goodness but if you’re just riding light
>>>> gravel these could do the trick.
>>>>
>>>> For more aggressive tread I bought some Specialized Pathfinder Pro
>>>> 700x42 which seem pretty good so far.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 8:26 AM Ted W  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I’ve had tires on the brain this last week. I was thinking I might
>>>>> want to try something a little narrower on my Appaloosa so I’ve been a bit
>>>>> absorbed with that thought.
>>>>>
>>>>> At the moment I run the SimWorks Super Yummy tire with the black
>>>>> sidewall in 29x2.25”. I previously had their 26x2.25” tan wall tires on a
>>>>> 26” build and absolutely loved them on that bike. Unfortunately, in the
>>>>> larger size, with the sort of riding I do (spirited, urban, all-road) I
>>>>> find the tires sluggish and a bit unpredictable at times. Combined with 
>>>>> the
>>>>> 25mm wide rim I use, the tires measure to close to 60mm wide.
>>>>>
>>>>> I was thinking about trying to find a tire with a more rounded profile
>>>>> and something that would be a bit narrower, somewhere in the 44-48mm range
>>>>> to start.
>>>>>
>>>>> I’ve been looking primarily at the Rene Herse tires. I have a friend
>>>>> who runs the Pumpkin Ridge (650x42) tire on his bike of a similar purpose
>>>>> and absolutely loves them. I’ve used the Naches Pass (26x1.8) on another
>>>>> build and also liked them a lot, but found that despite being the
>>>>> “endurance” casing, they were very prone to small punctures and didn’t
>>>>> handle the typical road debris around where I ride very well; this is one
>>>>> of the reasons I’ve typically stuck with knobbier tires.
>>>>>
>>>>> The ones on my short list are currently the  Manatash Ridge (700x42)
>>>>> and Oracle Ridge (700x48) tires from RH.
>>>>>
>>>&g

Re: [RBW] What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

Patrick,

The SSVSLs remind me of the Soma Shikoros that are currently available up
to 700x48. Have you ever ridden these for comparison? They were originally
on my list but I'd written them off due to the lack of tread (and in my
mind, the associated puncture resistance).

On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 12:20 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Eliot: I've considered the Snoqualmies as an alternative to my
>  no-longer-made Soma Supple Vitesse SLs (of which I have a small stash).
> The Somas are labeled 48 and measure 51.5 mm on my Blunt SS 35 mm OW rims
> and 50 seems a sweet spot for this bike.
>
> How wide do your SPs measure in real world mms, and on what width of rim
> and at what tire pressure?
>
> Thanks, Patrick
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 9:46 AM Eliot Balogh  wrote:
>
>> I LOVE the Snoqualmie Pass 700x44 EL tires. I had some issues with
>> leakage but it ended up being a tape issue and now they’re perfect. They
>> have unbelievable rolling resistance and ride feel. They’re the best
>> balance of speed and suppleness that seem to roll as fast as a skinny but
>> have the suppleness of a fatty. I will cry long and hard if I ever have to
>> give up on them (longevity isn’t great and some can be fussy tubeless). It
>> sounds like you want some knobby goodness but if you’re just riding light
>> gravel these could do the trick.
>>
>> For more aggressive tread I bought some Specialized Pathfinder Pro 700x42
>> which seem pretty good so far.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 2, 2023 at 8:26 AM Ted W  wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve had tires on the brain this last week. I was thinking I might want
>>> to try something a little narrower on my Appaloosa so I’ve been a bit
>>> absorbed with that thought.
>>>
>>> At the moment I run the SimWorks Super Yummy tire with the black
>>> sidewall in 29x2.25”. I previously had their 26x2.25” tan wall tires on a
>>> 26” build and absolutely loved them on that bike. Unfortunately, in the
>>> larger size, with the sort of riding I do (spirited, urban, all-road) I
>>> find the tires sluggish and a bit unpredictable at times. Combined with the
>>> 25mm wide rim I use, the tires measure to close to 60mm wide.
>>>
>>> I was thinking about trying to find a tire with a more rounded profile
>>> and something that would be a bit narrower, somewhere in the 44-48mm range
>>> to start.
>>>
>>> I’ve been looking primarily at the Rene Herse tires. I have a friend who
>>> runs the Pumpkin Ridge (650x42) tire on his bike of a similar purpose and
>>> absolutely loves them. I’ve used the Naches Pass (26x1.8) on another build
>>> and also liked them a lot, but found that despite being the “endurance”
>>> casing, they were very prone to small punctures and didn’t handle the
>>> typical road debris around where I ride very well; this is one of the
>>> reasons I’ve typically stuck with knobbier tires.
>>>
>>> The ones on my short list are currently the  Manatash Ridge (700x42) and
>>> Oracle Ridge (700x48) tires from RH.
>>>
>>> I’m curious to know and see what others on the list use and have liked.
>>> If you have pictures, I’d also love to see what they look like
>>> (particularly 42mm on frames like the Appaloosa).
>>>
>>> — Ted
>>>
>>> --
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>>>
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[RBW] What shoes does your Riv wear?

[Ted W]

I’ve had tires on the brain this last week. I was thinking I might want to
try something a little narrower on my Appaloosa so I’ve been a bit absorbed
with that thought.

At the moment I run the SimWorks Super Yummy tire with the black sidewall
in 29x2.25”. I previously had their 26x2.25” tan wall tires on a 26” build
and absolutely loved them on that bike. Unfortunately, in the larger size,
with the sort of riding I do (spirited, urban, all-road) I find the tires
sluggish and a bit unpredictable at times. Combined with the 25mm wide rim
I use, the tires measure to close to 60mm wide.

I was thinking about trying to find a tire with a more rounded profile and
something that would be a bit narrower, somewhere in the 44-48mm range to
start.

I’ve been looking primarily at the Rene Herse tires. I have a friend who
runs the Pumpkin Ridge (650x42) tire on his bike of a similar purpose and
absolutely loves them. I’ve used the Naches Pass (26x1.8) on another build
and also liked them a lot, but found that despite being the “endurance”
casing, they were very prone to small punctures and didn’t handle the
typical road debris around where I ride very well; this is one of the
reasons I’ve typically stuck with knobbier tires.

The ones on my short list are currently the  Manatash Ridge (700x42) and
Oracle Ridge (700x48) tires from RH.

I’m curious to know and see what others on the list use and have liked. If
you have pictures, I’d also love to see what they look like (particularly
42mm on frames like the Appaloosa).

— Ted

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sizing Upon a Clem?

[Ted W]

Those Lambda pedals are my absolute favorite for all around use, I think
you’re going to love them, especially if you’re used to clipless pedals. I
rode clipless exclusively for almost 20 years and got a set of lambdas for
my first Riv and was absolutely blown away by how planted my foot felt.
Zero slipping or foot movement, especially if you wear a shoe with a
“waffle” pattern sole (Vans, Ride Concepts, etc.).

Your build sounds like it’s going to be a blast!

On Wed, Sep 27, 2023 at 5:08 PM Jkarlin  wrote:

> Thanks y'all! And sorry for the typo in the title. (This was my first post
> in this google group, so it took a little while to go through.)
>
> I really appreciate the personal anecdotes and advice. I did end up
> talking to some of the guys at Riv, and they recommended I go with the 59,
> since my pbh is pretty much right in the middle of of the range for that
> size and this is my first Rivendell. They said I *might* want to size up
> if I end up loving their bikes and want another frame, but that the 59 is
> going to feel plenty luxurious compared to the road bike I'm doing
> everything on now.
>
> I did spring for their "you pick the fun stuff" build option--thought it
> would be worth it to have the bike built up by their own mechanics and that
> it would be fun to see whhat they choose. So I'll end up with the
> lime/olive frame, bosco bars, friction shifting, the triple crank, and
> whatever else they put on there to build it out (I'll put on mks lambda
> pedals and a brooks c17 )! Shipping ETA is late next week, and I'm super
> stoked.
>
> Thanks again for all the help! I am curious to know more about the make
> and model of the rear rack in the picture from "fiddleharpa"...
>
> On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 1:03:43 PM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I don’t think there would be an issue at all. I had the Clem H in a 59
>> and have a 90.5 PBH. I had to use a 135 stem with the Tosco bars and was
>> more upright than I’d prefer. I think it would be nicer without needing
>> such a long stem. Bar choice will make a big difference though.
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 12:44:57 PM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have two, a Gus and an Appaloosa, and in both instances went with the
>>> recommended sizing. I think it comes down to preference as said before but
>>> also riding style. If you want to put drops on one of their bikes (not
>>> necessarily the Clem, but in general) and are accustomed to more
>>> traditional road fit then their recommendation or a size lower if you’re in
>>> the lower half of the recommended PBH has been recommended. If you want to
>>> run with swept back bars and a more upright position, go with their sizing
>>>  or up if you’re in the top half of the range.
>>>
>>> It’s also worth calling Riv and talking it out with one of the people at
>>> the shop. They’ll ask you all sorts of questions and can help you make a
>>> more informed decision.
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 27, 2023 at 3:00 PM Richard Rose  wrote:
>>>
 Worth considering in this circumstance is how high you want your bars &
 how much stem you are comfortable with exposing. I ride a 52 & need the
 bars high. My FacePlater stem  is nearly maxed out & I need the 135
 extension to make it work. I could definitely ride the 59 & if I did I
 could use a shorter stem that would be inserted quite a bit more. In
 addition, that would put me on a 700c bike vs. a 27.5” one. I am very happy
 with what I have. Hope that helps.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Sep 27, 2023, at 2:12 PM, Nick Shoemaker  wrote:

 I'm ~6'1 with a 91-92 PBH and ride a 64cm Clem - no regrets based on
 my usage as a Trail Bike/Kid-hauler (it's the best bike ever, in fact!).
 It's honestly the first bike I've ever had that really feels like it fits
 me:

 


 The only thing you might want to consider is if the 64 will fit your
 bike rack, etc. It's too long for a lot of standard racks, but I recently
 upgraded to a 1UP hitch rack and it fits very securely without
 modification. Here's what it looks like *barely *squeezing onto a
 standard roof rack...

 




 On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 11:24:15 AM UTC-4 Jkarlin wrote:

> Hi everyone, I'm looking to get into the Rivendell world with one of
> their complete Clems. I measured my pbh at 90, which puts me pretty
> squarely in the 59cm range. I wondering if any of y'all have enjoyed 
> sizing
> up--according to the website, the 64cm would be doable for me. I'm just
> wondering if it'll be *good*, or if it'll be a gamble. 64cm just
> seems like a lot more bike than I'm used to!
>
> (I'm currently on a 58cm Nishiki International for everything. It's a
> great road bike, but I'm looking for something with more commuting,
> utility, and trail capability.)
>
> Sorry if this has already been addressed 

Re: [RBW] Re: Sizing Upon a Clem?

[Ted W]

I have two, a Gus and an Appaloosa, and in both instances went with the
recommended sizing. I think it comes down to preference as said before but
also riding style. If you want to put drops on one of their bikes (not
necessarily the Clem, but in general) and are accustomed to more
traditional road fit then their recommendation or a size lower if you’re in
the lower half of the recommended PBH has been recommended. If you want to
run with swept back bars and a more upright position, go with their sizing
 or up if you’re in the top half of the range.

It’s also worth calling Riv and talking it out with one of the people at
the shop. They’ll ask you all sorts of questions and can help you make a
more informed decision.

On Wed, Sep 27, 2023 at 3:00 PM Richard Rose  wrote:

> Worth considering in this circumstance is how high you want your bars &
> how much stem you are comfortable with exposing. I ride a 52 & need the
> bars high. My FacePlater stem  is nearly maxed out & I need the 135
> extension to make it work. I could definitely ride the 59 & if I did I
> could use a shorter stem that would be inserted quite a bit more. In
> addition, that would put me on a 700c bike vs. a 27.5” one. I am very happy
> with what I have. Hope that helps.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2023, at 2:12 PM, Nick Shoemaker  wrote:
>
> I'm ~6'1 with a 91-92 PBH and ride a 64cm Clem - no regrets based on my
> usage as a Trail Bike/Kid-hauler (it's the best bike ever, in fact!). It's
> honestly the first bike I've ever had that really feels like it fits me:
>
> 
>
>
> The only thing you might want to consider is if the 64 will fit your bike
> rack, etc. It's too long for a lot of standard racks, but I recently
> upgraded to a 1UP hitch rack and it fits very securely without
> modification. Here's what it looks like *barely *squeezing onto a
> standard roof rack...
>
> 
>
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, September 27, 2023 at 11:24:15 AM UTC-4 Jkarlin wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone, I'm looking to get into the Rivendell world with one of
>> their complete Clems. I measured my pbh at 90, which puts me pretty
>> squarely in the 59cm range. I wondering if any of y'all have enjoyed sizing
>> up--according to the website, the 64cm would be doable for me. I'm just
>> wondering if it'll be *good*, or if it'll be a gamble. 64cm just seems
>> like a lot more bike than I'm used to!
>>
>> (I'm currently on a 58cm Nishiki International for everything. It's a
>> great road bike, but I'm looking for something with more commuting,
>> utility, and trail capability.)
>>
>> Sorry if this has already been addressed somewhere else in the group.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: V-Brake Measurement Request

[Ted W]

Assuming distance from brake boss to fender hole at the crown is consistent
between models, you’re going to have a tough time fitting that rack with
v-brakes. The straddle cable on my Shimano Alivios, used on my Appaloosa
goes straight across the fender hole, if maybe slightly below. The case is
worse with the straddle cable of my Paul Motolites on my Gus.

On both of these, I use Velo-Orange racks. I used the Canti-mount rando
rack on the Appaloosa and on my Gus. In both cases, I had to bend the
fender hole support to curve up and around the straddle cable.

On Sun, Sep 17, 2023 at 12:39 PM Jack Newcomb 
wrote:

> Here's my deore xt v brakes on my latest revision sam hillborne. In person
> i measured 10.5 cm to the top of the brake arm
> On Sunday, September 17, 2023 at 8:25:30 AM UTC-7 George Rosselle wrote:
>
>> I have a similar set up on an old Fat Chance, and it is 4 1/4" to the top
>> of the straddle wire on the brakes. So it will not make it under your rack
>> but might clear over the top of it.
>>
>> On Saturday, September 16, 2023 at 5:43:17 PM UTC-4 Tony Lockhart wrote:
>>
>>> Hey folks,
>>> By any chance, are you running v-brakes AND a front rack? If so, would
>>> you mind taking some measurements?
>>>
>>> My Sam is setup with a Nitto M12 front rack and some cantilever brakes.
>>> I'd like to swap over to v-brakes however I want to make sure there's
>>> enough clearance.
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1796.JPG]
>>>
>>> Looks like I've got a solid 3.75 inches from the center of the brake
>>> posts to the bottom of the rack. I'm hoping v-brake wires will fit
>>> underneath (or above) the rack post without interference. When looking at
>>> images online, and on the Riv site, it looks like the wire pass right in
>>> front of the fork crown hole.
>>>
>>> If you're got v-brakes, could you take a measurement and let me know?
>>>
>>> Many thanks in advance,
>>> Tony
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Russ Roca/Path Less Pedaled reflects on his Sam Hillborne

[Ted W]

Unfortunately, the clickbait isn’t usually by choice for most Youtubers. In
order to run a successful YouTube channel, you have to play the
recommendation engine and that means clickbait titles, saying “like and
subscribe” in your videos and having silly thumbnails for your video,
usually of the host looking shocked or confused.

So I try not to blame Russ for that, he’s just trying to do what he has to
to run a successful business/channel in a world of AI and algorithms.

On Sat, Sep 16, 2023 at 5:46 AM exliontamer  wrote:

> Nice video. I like Russ's thing. It took me a while to come around to him.
> For a while I consciously avoided it because of click bait titles (I'm
> paraphrasing) like "Crust Vs Rivendell:Ultimate Face-off" & "Is the Sam
> Hillborne still relevant in 2013".
> I'm sure a good bit of people on this page have gear acquisition syndrome
> relating to bikes & bike parts. I've certainly seen a lot come & go but the
> two I've never sold are my Toyo Atlantis & my '81 Trek 510.
> On Friday, September 15, 2023 at 4:50:30 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> This resonates with me because my Hillborne is the only bike I've been
>> absolutely certain I would never sell. Four years and 10,000km in, and this
>> feeling has never wavered. Every other bike I've at least had thoughts of
>> selling.. or have sold!
>>
>> On Friday, 15 September 2023 at 08:44:27 UTC-7 Tim Tetrault wrote:
>>
>>> Indeed, thanks for sharing this. I sent it to my wife who was
>>> instrumental in crowd funding a side-pull canti Sam frame for my birthday
>>> back in 2012.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 15, 2023 at 8:25:21 AM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I, too, delight in watching Russ Roca's YouTube channel "Path Less
 Pedaled". It is very entertaining and informative.

 It was really cool to hear his reasoning why is keeping his Rivendell
 Sam Hillbourne bicycle, of which is very similar to my thinking to owning
 and wanting to keep my Clem.

 Kim Hetzel
 Yelm, WA.
 On Friday, September 15, 2023 at 6:06:23 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> I love Russ’ channel. He provides a nice balance to bicycle YouTube.
>
> I’m perfectly happy with my Appaloosa but earlier this year i was torn
> between it and waiting for the Hillborne release. I’m on the larger side
> for a cyclist and their recommendation for the rider weight gave me pause.
> I’d have loved to have a slightly shorter wheelbase for commuting
> (elevators are a bit tight).
>
> On Fri, Sep 15, 2023 at 8:30 AM Julian Westerhout 
> wrote:
>
>> Russ Roca has a new video up about his Sam Hillborne --  explaining
>> why it is the one bike he cannot see ever selling.
>>
>> IMHO he does a really good job of explaining the appeal of the
>> Rivendell line. I think it is worth watching.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6YG_Mk3zJ4
>>
>>
>> Julian Westerhout
>> Bloomington, IL
>>
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Re: [RBW] Russ Roca/Path Less Pedaled reflects on his Sam Hillborne

[Ted W]

I love Russ’ channel. He provides a nice balance to bicycle YouTube.

I’m perfectly happy with my Appaloosa but earlier this year i was torn
between it and waiting for the Hillborne release. I’m on the larger side
for a cyclist and their recommendation for the rider weight gave me pause.
I’d have loved to have a slightly shorter wheelbase for commuting
(elevators are a bit tight).

On Fri, Sep 15, 2023 at 8:30 AM Julian Westerhout 
wrote:

> Russ Roca has a new video up about his Sam Hillborne --  explaining why it
> is the one bike he cannot see ever selling.
>
> IMHO he does a really good job of explaining the appeal of the Rivendell
> line. I think it is worth watching.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6YG_Mk3zJ4
>
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, IL
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: ATTENTION ! Someone posted on r/Rivendell_Bicycles the map of Rivendell bike owners

[Ted W]

An innocent idea but on the public Internet, quite dangerous. Sure, the
odds are low that someone will use the information maliciously, but why
risk it?

On Fri, Sep 15, 2023 at 7:58 AM Eric Marth  wrote:

> I love how many people listed their home addresses so you can go and snag
> their Rivs out of their sheds!
>
>
> On Thursday, September 14, 2023 at 10:35:39 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Hello John Rinker ..
>>
>> Kim Hetzel.
>>
>> On Thursday, September 14, 2023 at 7:33:41 PM UTC-7 Kim H. wrote:
>>
>>> I noticed this just a while ago:
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.reddit.com/r/Rivendell_Bicycles/comments/16ivfb0/rivendell_bike_owner_map/
>>>
>>> I have no association with the OP whatsoever.
>>>
>>> Is this going to be of a great concern or not ?
>>>
>>> Kim Hetzel
>>> Yelm, WA.
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Tiller effect: could someone please explain?

[Ted W]

> Try pushing a wheelbarrow up a steep hill. hilarity ensues. Once you
get knocked off your intended line, it's very difficult to move it back on
track as the wheelbarrow just wants to go in the direction it was moved to
go

Thank you for describing it this way. You just described exactly how it
feels to climb a hill with my Gus and Tosco bars. I'll try a longer stem
and get my hands further forward.

On Mon, Sep 11, 2023 at 1:26 PM Garth  wrote:

> I call it the wheelbarrow effect myself, as that most aptly describes the
> sensation in a relatable way. Try pushing a wheelbarrow up a steep
> hill. hilarity ensues. Once you get knocked off your intended line,
> it's very difficult to move it back on track as the wheelbarrow just wants
> to go in the direction it was moved to go. Steering just makes it worse. My
> experience with the Bombadil is just like that, although I'm sure it's not
> nearly as bad as the hilly bikes or Clem. On my franklin road bike with
> much less trail it just breezes up the same road and is easily corrected
> getting knocked about by rocks, even with an Albatross bar.
>
> Dave Moulton also writes about it, among all sorts of other things in the
> design of bicycles.
>
> http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2009/10/5/the-evolution-of-frame-design-part-i-the-wheelbarrow-effect.html
>
> An easy way to feel it is this from the article :
>
> *To demonstrate this effect to yourself; hold a pen or ruler on a table
> top at 90 degrees to the surface, and move from side to side keeping the
> point of the pen in one spot; you are moving in one plane. Now hold the pen
> at an angle of 45 degrees and move from side to side and you will see that
> you swing in an arc.*
>
> *This was something I later called the “Wheelbarrow Effect.” In Part II
> 
>  I
> will talk about how frame design evolved through the 1960s and 1970s
> to arrive closer to what we see today.*
>
>
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-- 
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Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

[Ted W]

You know, Bill… after reading your comment here I had to go take a look at
my Appaloosa and wouldn’t you know it, you’re right! There’s some play in
it! It’s not as pronounced as the video Richard shared but it’s there to be
sure! I’d never noticed it before. Perhaps the others are in correct and
what is needed here is a taller stem to allow for more to be inserted in
the steerer.


On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 6:42 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> Since you've measured your stem at 22.2mm and since you perceive the same
> wiggle with two stems, that rules out an undersized stem.  That gives you
> two choices:
>
> -live with it.  It's one of the minor shortcomings of quill stem bikes,
> made more noticeable with a really tall stem and presumably wide bars.
> -OR-
> -pursue the notion that your steer tube inside diameter is larger than it
> ought to be.
>
> If you wanted to pursue the notion that your fork is "out of spec", try
> inserting one of your test-stems into another 1" fork steer tube and
> convince yourself that it does not wiggle.  Then you will have proven there
> is an objective shortcoming on your fork.  Talk that over with Rivendell
> and try to make it right.
>
> In general, every quill stem, when slid into the steer tube has a small
> amount of 'wiggle'.  That small amount of wiggle is reduced but not
> eliminated by tightening the bolt that engages the wedge.  That wedge-spot
> is down at some depth, and the stem can still pivot around that point a
> tiny bit.  That is the way it is, to some extent.  In the case of a steer
> tube whose ID is larger, that wiggle will be larger.  I don't know if
> Rivendell has a spec that they guarantee, nor do I know if there's some
> universally accepted tolerance there.  My instinct is that the steer tube
> ID has to be larger than 22.2mm, and I'd say it probably also has to be
> larger than 22.225mm (which is the real value of 7/8"). To me, 22.3mm seems
> reasonable.  To me, 22.5mm would seem unreasonable.  Where to draw the
> line...22.4mm?  I don't know.
>
> For the sake of science I just tried to wiggle the stem on two of my bikes
> that have a 1" quill stem.  On neither do I consider it a problem.  On one
> bike (Bridgestone RB-1), I could see the gap around the stem at the locknut
> open and close ever so slightly.  On the other I saw no change.  What I see
> in your video seems like "more wiggle" than either of my test bikes.  Take
> that for what it's worth.  Maybe have a mechanic you trust give it a look.
> Tell them "I think this is bad, what do you think?  If they say "yeah I
> agree it's bad" then pursue something. If they say "no this looks normal"
> then maybe live with it.
>
> At any rate, if the wiggle makes you unhappy, talk with Riv and find a way
> to be happy.  I'm sure they'll work with you to get you there.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
> On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 2:57:20 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> Regarding item #1, stem measures 22.2 & of course it is a 1” steer tube.
>> Seemed unliked Riv would sell a stem for one of their bikes that was the
>> wrong size, but worth checking for sure.
>> Regarding item #2, I did remove & replace stem & it did not change.
>> I remember reading that the minimum insertion point should be at or below
>> the top of the head tube, not the top of the locking nut. Mine is 2cm below
>> the top of the lock nut, so pretty close to the top of the head tube. Will
>> told me the minimum insertion line could be at the top of the lock nut. I
>> could drop it a few cm to see if the movement gets better, but then it
>> would be too low for my comfort.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 6, 2023, at 3:28 PM, Ted W  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Couple of thoughts right off:
>>
>> 1. if you pull the stem out to the minimum insertion line and re-tighten
>> it, does it still move? Sometimes, if you've inserted the stem too far, you
>> may encounter this issue. It can be mitigated by getting a shorter stem or
>> cutting the current one down a bit (advanced mode).
>> 2. What's the inner diameter of the steerer and what's the outer diameter
>> of the stem? There are different threaded headset standards. I've provided
>> a summary below. It's possible you've wound up with a mistmatch:
>>
>> *Stem “neck” outer diameter* – measurement units: mm (inches)  *Standard
>> name*
>> *21.15 (13/16″)* Old American and BMX standard
>> *22* Old French standard
>> *22.2 (7/8″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of
>> 25.4 mm (1″)
>> *25.4 (1″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an

Re: [RBW] Headset adjustment

[Ted W]

Couple of thoughts right off:

1. if you pull the stem out to the minimum insertion line and re-tighten
it, does it still move? Sometimes, if you've inserted the stem too far, you
may encounter this issue. It can be mitigated by getting a shorter stem or
cutting the current one down a bit (advanced mode).
2. What's the inner diameter of the steerer and what's the outer diameter
of the stem? There are different threaded headset standards. I've provided
a summary below. It's possible you've wound up with a mistmatch:

*Stem “neck” outer diameter* – measurement units: mm (inches)  *Standard
name*
*21.15 (13/16″)* Old American and BMX standard
*22* Old French standard
*22.2 (7/8″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of
25.4 mm (1″)
*25.4 (1″)* Standard for most threaded forks with an outer diameter of 28.6
mm (1 1/8″) – not very common

On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 3:07 PM Richard Rose  wrote:

> Greetings folks. I would appreciate any input regarding this. Since new I
> have had some movement in my headset / stem that concerns me, possibly
> unnecessarily so? Please review the attached video link and tell me what
> you see. I felt the headset was a bit loose so tightened it a bit. This
> made no difference. The minimum insertion line for the Faceplater stem is a
> full two centimeters below the headset lock nut. So, the question seems to
> be is this stem quill movement excessive &  if so how to eliminate it. I do
> mind the inherent flex. It no doubt contributes to the comfort of the bike?
> I just want to be certain it is safe and causing no harm.
> I appreciate your help.
> Richard
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZXVZBrQEVzamDV1H6
>
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>


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Re: [RBW] Re: Babies on bikes

[Ted W]

> We're riding a Big Dummy now, but it's less used for long rides

Do you have one of the covers for the passengers? I’ve seen some with these
and it seems like a really neat option. I’ve been considering a cargo bike
but I’m worried about the size of the bike making it tricky to park. I
already have trouble navigating my Gus through the office elevator when I
ride it to work.

On Sat, Sep 2, 2023 at 10:12 AM 'j glenn' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>
>
>- I didn't get back into riding till my kid was at least 2, but I
>would highly recommend  a high quality solo trailer. We had a Burley Bee.
>The trailer provided a safe roll cage around the kid and didn't effect the
>bikes handing so I could get some real fitness riding in on a 20 mile 3
>playground tour.   We used it for longer rides untill he out grew it.
>The biggest advantage to the trailer was the environmental shelter it
>gave.  The mesh gover protected from sun an bugs and the plastic cover from
>cold and rain.  We went out in all weather, including out in the snow with
>studded tires.
>- We're riding a Big Dummy now, but it's less used for long rides, as
>it's less comfortable and not as suitable for "wake me up when we get
>there".  The back deck is better for standing up and surfing on though.  I
>have installed Quadrophonic scooters mirrors.
>
>
> On Saturday, September 2, 2023 at 8:18:16 AM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> My son is about to turn one and I’ve had him in a rear mounted Thule kids
>> seat since he was about 8 months old. Before that, I played around with
>> mounting his car seat base to the metal frame of one of those side-by-side
>> kid trailers. I only ever used it twice, though, before he was old enough
>> to be in the rear seat.
>>
>> You’re not really supposed to mount car seats to those trailers, but I
>> was able to fabricate a mount that let the base mount the same way it does
>> in the car, allowing the carrier to clip in the same way as it would in the
>> car. Combined with the “roll cage” design of the trailer, I felt
>> comfortable using it for quick rides to the neighborhood park, less than a
>> mile away.
>>
>> The conventional wisdom I’ve heard is that you need to wait until they
>> can hold their head up well with their helmet on. That was technically 7
>> months for us, but I waited until he was a little bigger and the helmet
>> gift him better.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 1, 2023 at 11:31 PM Michael Baquerizo 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> it might not just be research but also law. you should check in your
>>> area.
>>>
>>> i started when we were allowed to, i think still before 1 YO. we used a
>>> yepp maxi because i didn’t want to have to buy a mini and then a maxi after
>>> he grew out of it. but i regretted not being able to have him in the front
>>> with me.
>>>
>>> fast forward a few years and i helped a friend install a mini on his
>>> bike w swept back bars. it was impossible to ride around with, and there
>>> wasn’t even a kid on it when i tried. turning was impossible. i’m sure
>>> there’s an ideal setup for it like a rosco bebbe) but a ‘normal’ bike is
>>> not it
>>>
>>> i still use the yepp maxi on a nitto campee rear rack, for sure not
>>> rated for his weight and it’s about time i switch out racks for something
>>> beefier.
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 10:58:35 PM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:
>>>
 Looking for wisdom and advice from the Riv community on riding bikes
 with babies on them. At what age did you start? What seats, trailers, etc
 did you use? Where did you ride?

 My little one just turned 6 months old and I am itching to introduce
 him to bike rides. He can sit on his own and does pretty well in carriers
 (both facing in and out). He loves being outside and I would love to do a
 ride with him on a car-free bike paths or (non-technical) dirt trails. Most
 online resources recommend biking with babies after 1 year of age but I am
 not sure if that's based on any actual research.

>>> --
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Babies on bikes

[Ted W]

My son is about to turn one and I’ve had him in a rear mounted Thule kids
seat since he was about 8 months old. Before that, I played around with
mounting his car seat base to the metal frame of one of those side-by-side
kid trailers. I only ever used it twice, though, before he was old enough
to be in the rear seat.

You’re not really supposed to mount car seats to those trailers, but I was
able to fabricate a mount that let the base mount the same way it does in
the car, allowing the carrier to clip in the same way as it would in the
car. Combined with the “roll cage” design of the trailer, I felt
comfortable using it for quick rides to the neighborhood park, less than a
mile away.

The conventional wisdom I’ve heard is that you need to wait until they can
hold their head up well with their helmet on. That was technically 7 months
for us, but I waited until he was a little bigger and the helmet gift him
better.

On Fri, Sep 1, 2023 at 11:31 PM Michael Baquerizo 
wrote:

> it might not just be research but also law. you should check in your area.
>
> i started when we were allowed to, i think still before 1 YO. we used a
> yepp maxi because i didn’t want to have to buy a mini and then a maxi after
> he grew out of it. but i regretted not being able to have him in the front
> with me.
>
> fast forward a few years and i helped a friend install a mini on his bike
> w swept back bars. it was impossible to ride around with, and there wasn’t
> even a kid on it when i tried. turning was impossible. i’m sure there’s an
> ideal setup for it like a rosco bebbe) but a ‘normal’ bike is not it
>
> i still use the yepp maxi on a nitto campee rear rack, for sure not rated
> for his weight and it’s about time i switch out racks for something
> beefier.
>
> On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 10:58:35 PM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:
>
>> Looking for wisdom and advice from the Riv community on riding bikes with
>> babies on them. At what age did you start? What seats, trailers, etc did
>> you use? Where did you ride?
>>
>> My little one just turned 6 months old and I am itching to introduce him
>> to bike rides. He can sit on his own and does pretty well in carriers (both
>> facing in and out). He loves being outside and I would love to do a ride
>> with him on a car-free bike paths or (non-technical) dirt trails. Most
>> online resources recommend biking with babies after 1 year of age but I am
>> not sure if that's based on any actual research.
>>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Bicycle Works new saddle coming out in September 2023

[Ted W]

Thanks for the recommendation, Liz! Unfortunately I’m going to have to
agree with Jim. I’ve used microfiber saddles in the past and I’m not able
to slid around on them enough for my liking.

For what it’s worth, my solution to the saddle theft problem thus far has
worked well enough. I use a RandyJo waxed canvas cover that’s very very
worn in and makes the saddle look much less attractive. But there’s always
that fear in the back of my mind regardless.

On Sun, Aug 27, 2023 at 9:59 AM Jingy  wrote:

> The problem I had with the Velo Orange saddle was the microfiber cover. I
> couldn't slide back and forth-the top is like velcro!
> Jim in Mpls
>
> On Sunday, August 27, 2023 at 8:54:26 AM UTC-5 Elisabeth Sherwood wrote:
>
>> Ted,
>>
>> Velo Orange says this (affordable, and now close-out) saddle is like the
>> B17.  Looks to be a small bit narrower.
>>
>>
>> https://velo-orange.com/collections/specials/products/microfiber-touring-saddle-wide
>>
>> (For comparison, the B17 does not work for me at all, and I found the
>> Velo Orange equally uncomfortable, in all the same ways!)
>>
>> Liz
>> Washington, DC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, August 27, 2023 at 7:18:41 AM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone happen to have the measurements of a B17 handy for
>>> comparison? I’ve wanted to throw a less attractive saddle on my grocery
>>> getter because saddle theft is a thing around here with nice saddles, but I
>>> have yet to find anything as comfortable.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Aug 26, 2023 at 10:43 PM Johnny Alien 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Yes, that is from Grant's new blog. Its a bit wide for me but there is
 lots to like about it.

 On Saturday, August 26, 2023 at 10:01:03 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> Whether or not it is true, I do not know.
>
> Kim.
>
> On Saturday, August 26, 2023 at 6:47:42 PM UTC-7 Kim H. wrote:
>
>> I found this on the sub-Reddit site r/xbiking;
>>
>>
>> https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/161zcw8/looks_like_rivs_new_plastic_saddle_is_coming_in/?utm_source=share_medium=android_app_name=androidcss_term=10_content=1=63131
>>
>> Looks interesting with possibilities.
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA.
>>
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 .

>>> --
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Rivendell Bicycle Works new saddle coming out in September 2023

[Ted W]

Does anyone happen to have the measurements of a B17 handy for comparison?
I’ve wanted to throw a less attractive saddle on my grocery getter because
saddle theft is a thing around here with nice saddles, but I have yet to
find anything as comfortable.

On Sat, Aug 26, 2023 at 10:43 PM Johnny Alien 
wrote:

> Yes, that is from Grant's new blog. Its a bit wide for me but there is
> lots to like about it.
>
> On Saturday, August 26, 2023 at 10:01:03 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Whether or not it is true, I do not know.
>>
>> Kim.
>>
>> On Saturday, August 26, 2023 at 6:47:42 PM UTC-7 Kim H. wrote:
>>
>>> I found this on the sub-Reddit site r/xbiking;
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/161zcw8/looks_like_rivs_new_plastic_saddle_is_coming_in/?utm_source=share_medium=android_app_name=androidcss_term=10_content=1=63131
>>>
>>> Looks interesting with possibilities.
>>>
>>> Kim Hetzel
>>> Yelm, WA.
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[Ted W]

My experience with RH tires (tubeless) is that their dual-purpose tires are
more durable than their all-road tires. I have always used the endurance
casing versions and found that I constantly get punctures on their
all-roads (most recently with the Naches Pass). On the other hand, their
dual-purpose knobbies (such as Oracle Ridge and Fleecer Ridge) last much
longer.

I’m sure riding surface and environment makes a large difference. My riding
tends to be mostly urban, mixed surface. I probably encounter more glass
and other sharp objects than some people.

On Fri, Aug 18, 2023 at 10:54 AM Josh (BertoBerg) 
wrote:

> Ted (and All)-
>
> I don't think I've ever gotten more than 1500 miles out of a set of
> Extralights. By the that time the rear tire is usually slick and both tires
> have several tread slashes in them.
>
> I've had a lot of luck with the Barlow Passes (running tubeless) in
> standard casing however.
>
> -Josh
>
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[RBW] Swift Industries running a 50% discount sale

[Ted W]

In case anyone here’s not subscribed to their mailing list, Swift
Industries currently has a 50% discount code active. I picked up a
Zeitgeist and Ardea bag with the code, in a nice shade of teal that should
pop nicely on the purple Appa!

Discount code is “summerofswift_50”

No affiliation with Swift, I just believe everyone should have equal access
to discounts without needing to subscribe to marketing lists ☺️
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Mountain Works Elf Pouch

[Ted W]

Thanks for the recommendation of Tom Bihn, Eric! I’ve been looking for a
moderately sized hip pouch to carry a phone, camera, book, wallet, etc. and
their “Bummer” bag looks nearly perfect! Great prices too.

On Mon, Aug 14, 2023 at 9:47 AM Brian Turner  wrote:

> I managed to snag one of these a few months back when Rivendell posted
> them. Since then, I've used it to carry my little Vortex birding binoculars
> and they fit perfectly with room for a few other small odds and ends. A
> John's Strap works great instead of fishing it through your belt if you
> want to be able to just grab it and go.
>
> On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 9:13:40 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Tom Bihn is a great source for Made in the USA pouches and organizers:
>> https://www.tombihn.com/collections/all-organizational-bags
>>
>> I have a few of their bags and pouches. Made in Seattle.
>>
>> I also give a +1 to Igor's recommendation to order the RMW pouch straight
>> from RMW.
>>
>> On Sunday, August 13, 2023 at 8:47:23 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Good find, Igor !
>>>
>>> Kim.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Aug 13, 2023, 4:09 PM Igor  wrote:
>>>
 Could get one from the source
 https://www.rivendellmountainworks.com/shop/elf-pouch-belt-pouch-for-hiking-and-travelling/

 On Saturday, August 12, 2023 at 6:15:13 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com
 wrote:

> As a suggestion for something to hold you over until the RIV MOUNTAIN
> WORKS ELF pouches return to being in stock again, I found a couple of pen
> and pencil holders for school supplies from Walmart that work real well,
> both for a tool pouch and another holding small items, like a tire tube,
> cell phone, snacks, etc.
>
>
> https://www.walmart.com/browse/office-supplies/pencil-pouches/1229749_9412206_8443517_8299765?action=SignIn=true
>
>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Casual-Gray-Large-Pencil-Cases-for-Students-Back-to-School-Stationery-Organizer-for-School-Office-Supplies/766051509
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
>
> On Saturday, August 12, 2023 at 2:42:30 PM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com
> wrote:
>
>> I’ve been waiting for these to come back but stupidly wasn’t signed
>> up for the back on stock notifications (I am now!) and missed this last
>> restock. They look super duper handy!
>>
>> On Sat, Aug 12, 2023 at 5:04 PM Joe Bernard 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Can also recommend - since the Elf Pouch is out of stock again - the
>>> FlatSack. I don't actually use mine on the bike (it would fit in my 
>>> Medium
>>> SaddleSack); I'm a transit bus driver and put paperwork, hole punch, 
>>> Cliff
>>> Bar and my car key in it. Super handy!
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sackville-flatsack-olive
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 12, 2023 at 10:18:13 AM UTC-7 jaredwilson wrote:
>>>
 I'll second the usefulness of these little bags, I take mine with
 my daily and love having my small items contained in one location.

 10/10 recommend, congrats to those who got one before they sold
 out, and when they come back I highly recommend picking one up.

 jared

 On Saturday, August 12, 2023 at 9:58:09 AM UTC-7
 rockthr...@gmail.com wrote:

> These weren't announced as 'back in stock', but I just found them
> on the website. I got one from the first batch and find it very 
> useful.
> Belt loops on the back to make it a very nice hip pack for carrying 
> the
> core essentials.
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/rivendell-mountain-works-elf-pouch-belt-pouch
>
>
> *disclaimer - if this post goes up after the bags sell out it's
> because I'm still a newb and my content gets reviewed before.
>
 --
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>>>
>> --
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>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Mountain Works Elf Pouch

[Ted W]

I’ve been waiting for these to come back but stupidly wasn’t signed up for
the back on stock notifications (I am now!) and missed this last restock.
They look super duper handy!

On Sat, Aug 12, 2023 at 5:04 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Can also recommend - since the Elf Pouch is out of stock again - the
> FlatSack. I don't actually use mine on the bike (it would fit in my Medium
> SaddleSack); I'm a transit bus driver and put paperwork, hole punch, Cliff
> Bar and my car key in it. Super handy!
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/sackville-flatsack-olive
>
>
> On Saturday, August 12, 2023 at 10:18:13 AM UTC-7 jaredwilson wrote:
>
>> I'll second the usefulness of these little bags, I take mine with my
>> daily and love having my small items contained in one location.
>>
>> 10/10 recommend, congrats to those who got one before they sold out, and
>> when they come back I highly recommend picking one up.
>>
>> jared
>>
>> On Saturday, August 12, 2023 at 9:58:09 AM UTC-7 rockthr...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> These weren't announced as 'back in stock', but I just found them on the
>>> website. I got one from the first batch and find it very useful. Belt loops
>>> on the back to make it a very nice hip pack for carrying the core
>>> essentials.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/rivendell-mountain-works-elf-pouch-belt-pouch
>>>
>>>
>>> *disclaimer - if this post goes up after the bags sell out it's because
>>> I'm still a newb and my content gets reviewed before.
>>>
>> --
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlas tubeless?

[Ted W]

Here is a link to the video that helped me understand the floor pump method
of seating a tubeless bead that Jamie described (quite well, I might add).
Jump to the 2:50 mark for the relevant bits:
https://youtu.be/tE3h4nmDdO

On Sun, Aug 6, 2023 at 6:08 PM Jamie W  wrote:

> I remember when Stan's was first coming out/gaining popularity the rep
> came by the shop and set up a whole bunch of old rims tubeless. These were
> just any old rims kicking around the back. As mentioned the tape prevents
> air loss through the spoke drilling. Modern rims and tires have a much
> better or secure fit out the box, but again, this can be fudged with
> additional tape to build the "shelf". People have great luck with Gorilla
> tape as a cheaper alternative. I think it's good to play around with the
> system to help demystify the workings. Worse case it isn't for you on you
> need to clean a bit of tape glue.
>
> As someone without an air compressor, a helpful trick I use is to seat the
> majority of the tire on the rim before inflating. You are essentially using
> a tire lever to pretend to pull the tire out of the rim while using your
> thumb behind it to prevent it from actually popping off, therefore pulling
> the bead into the shelf or hook. Say the valve is at 12 o'clock, start at
> maybe 2 and go clockwise until at least 2/3rds of the tire is seated. The
> 1/3rd of the tire near the valve will be "loose" and sitting in the channel
> of the rim while the rest of the tire be fully set in the rim hook. I've
> had luck setting up tubeless with a hand pump using this method.
>
> I'm guessing you aren't using the hunk for bike park riding or aggressive
> low psi road ride descending. It should be fine for most riding or at least
> until new rims arrive.
> Bt I'm giving advice over the internet, so I'll add; maybe or who
> knows??
>
> On Friday, August 4, 2023 at 9:56:53 PM UTC-7 Jay Lonner wrote:
>
>> My Big Bens are nearing end of life and I’m curious about setting up my
>> Hunq tubeless. But I have Atlas rims, which Velocity says is a no-go.
>> However if you scroll through the comments on this article, John Watson
>> from the Radavist says they set up nicely:
>>
>> https://theradavist.com/rivendell-hunqapillar-review/
>>
>> So why would I want to do this? Mostly to get experience working with
>> tubeless setups. My full-squish MTB and gravel/bikepacking rig are
>> tubeless, and if/when I encounter issues with either of them (esp. if I’m
>> in a remote locale) I’d like to have some hands-on knowledge with
>> troubleshooting tubeless systems. I already have an air compressor, so
>> basically for the cost of some tape and sealant I’d be good to go.
>>
>> Anybody have experience with making non-tubeless rims play nicely
>> tubeless? Tips or tricks to share? Or is it just a bad idea, and should I
>> resign myself to getting some new wheels built with Cliffhangers? I’d hate
>> to have the Hunq out of commission that long, but if I timed it to coincide
>> with out-of-town travel it probably wouldn’t be that big a deal.
>>
>> One last question — Cliffhangers are wider than Atlases by about 4.6 mm.
>> How would that affect fender clearance? My intuition is that wider rims
>> should result in a flatter tire arc, and potentially make it possible to go
>> slightly wider if I wanted to. I have 50s now, and would like to be able to
>> move up to 55s or even 60s.
>>
>> Jay Lonner
>> Bellingham, WA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: NBD: showing off, and questions

[Ted W]

So, I’m just going to say it. This is the reason I ditched 26” for mixed
surface riding. I was having trouble finding tires that I liked (but he SK+
wasn’t available in 26” at the time). They were all really geared towards
knobby MTB applications and not hard pack / pavement mixed riding.

That said, Vittoria Mezcals are available in 26x2.1, ETRTO 52-559 (52mm).
They might work for you. I ran them for a while on my Gus Boots when I
first built it and they were quite nice. I was running 29x2.6” which was
overkill for my use case, but they were very comfortable. They make a bit
more road noise than the SKs you have now but they still roll well on
pavement.

The Humptulips are a solid choice as well. A friend of mine runs a similar
RH tire in their 27.5 variety (the name escapes me) and he loves them.

On Sat, Aug 5, 2023 at 12:12 PM Bob  wrote:

> Ted,
>
> Yes, I measure the angles at 73° for both seat and head tubes. Mind you,
> this is with my phone, but the feel of the riding position is akin to
> another bike that I know to be 73°/73°.
>
> This bike is closer to the AR specified in the RBW 1996 catalog (pp.
> 11–12) than to the AR in the first-generation geometry chart given in
> catalog no. 5 (summer 1999). But all photos of ARs I've seen have have
> double eyelets on the fork dropouts; mine has only fender eyelets on the
> back of the fork dropouts.
>
> --
> Bob
>
>
> On Saturday, August 5, 2023 at 8:40:50 AM UTC-6 Ted Durant wrote:
>
>> On Friday, August 4, 2023 at 4:39:24 PM UTC-5 rcook...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> The seller, who is a group member here, too, described the bike as an
>> All-Rounder, and for the most part that's what it seems to be, though it
>> may be more accurate to say it is a custom in the style of an
>> All-Rounder—cantilever brakes, clearance for 2" tires, 26" wheels—but
>> without the bosses or eyelets for a front rack present on the ARs I've seen.
>>
>> Super short fork rake suggests Riv ATB, and it looks like the BB drop is
>> pretty shallow, too. But not as much top tube angle as I'd expect for an
>> ATB.  Head lugs match what were on my Riv ATB, built at Waterford around
>> '96 or so. Also, my ATB had vertical dropouts, where this one has short
>> horizontals.
>>
>> Ted Durant
>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlas tubeless?

[Ted W]

I can only speak antidotally about the tubeless rims but I do have
experience with the Cliffhanger rims and fender clearance.

You’re correct about the rim width. For reference, I have 29x2.22 SimWorks
Super Yummy tires, run tubeless, w/ Cliffhanger wheels on my Appaloosa.
They should measure around 55mm if they were true to size but I measure
mine at about 60mm. So, I’d suggest adding about 5mm to the advertised tire
size and start there when deciding if a tire combo on Cliffhangers will fit
a given frame.

Now, with the other question. I’ve personally never done run non-tubeless
tires as tubeless but I know people who have and have had no issues. My
understanding from talking to them is that you need the tubeless rim tape
to seal the spokes and you need tires that can seat their bead properly,
and tightly, on the wheel. The latter is where the main difference is,
unless you’re talking hooked vs. hookless beads, between wheels rated for
tubeless and those not. You’ll usually have more of a lip near the rim edge
(think inside the wheel, the space between the rim tape and the braking
surface) that the tire with pop up on to and seal against. If the tire
doesn’t have enough of a lip there, the bead won’t seat well. I’ve heard of
people who’ve used duct-tape to build the inside of the rim up, but I’m not
sure I’d trust that… but it works for them.

Ted

On Sat, Aug 5, 2023 at 8:39 AM jeffbog...@hotmail.com <
jeffbogdanov...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Jay, I'm looking for an Atlas wheelset if you decide to sell. PM sent.
>
> On Friday, 4 August 2023 at 23:56:53 UTC-5 Jay Lonner wrote:
>
>> My Big Bens are nearing end of life and I’m curious about setting up my
>> Hunq tubeless. But I have Atlas rims, which Velocity says is a no-go.
>> However if you scroll through the comments on this article, John Watson
>> from the Radavist says they set up nicely:
>>
>> https://theradavist.com/rivendell-hunqapillar-review/
>>
>> So why would I want to do this? Mostly to get experience working with
>> tubeless setups. My full-squish MTB and gravel/bikepacking rig are
>> tubeless, and if/when I encounter issues with either of them (esp. if I’m
>> in a remote locale) I’d like to have some hands-on knowledge with
>> troubleshooting tubeless systems. I already have an air compressor, so
>> basically for the cost of some tape and sealant I’d be good to go.
>>
>> Anybody have experience with making non-tubeless rims play nicely
>> tubeless? Tips or tricks to share? Or is it just a bad idea, and should I
>> resign myself to getting some new wheels built with Cliffhangers? I’d hate
>> to have the Hunq out of commission that long, but if I timed it to coincide
>> with out-of-town travel it probably wouldn’t be that big a deal.
>>
>> One last question — Cliffhangers are wider than Atlases by about 4.6 mm.
>> How would that affect fender clearance? My intuition is that wider rims
>> should result in a flatter tire arc, and potentially make it possible to go
>> slightly wider if I wanted to. I have 50s now, and would like to be able to
>> move up to 55s or even 60s.
>>
>> Jay Lonner
>> Bellingham, WA
>>
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Re: [RBW] Tried and liked: Suntour Cyclone pretzel

[Ted W]

Wow, I’m glad to hear that it was only a minor tumble, but I’m sorry to
hear about the derailler… again. That’s quite the pretzel you’ve made,
though! I’m not sure I’ve seen such, save for deraillers that went through
a far more severe crash.

I might be crazy, but restoring a busted up mech like that actually sounds
like it would be a fun challenge. Hope the hanger can be fixed with minimal
fuss but I think you may be right, a frame builder might be needed here. It
always baffled me that Riv didn’t adopt replaceable hangers at some point
along the line.


On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 3:20 PM D D  wrote:

> Eric,
>
> Sorry to hear about your misadventure. Thanks for the photo of the
> pretzel. Did the photo you originally pulled over to take turn out to be
> worth it?
>
> Dustin in VA
>
> On Jul 23, 2023, at 3:13 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>
> 
> Hey gang — I was out for a Sunday ride and stopped to take a picture. I
> rolled to the side of the road and did not see the culvert, hidden with
> fresh grass clippings. I tumbled over at low speed. I'm fine!
>
> When I stood up I noticed my drive-side bar end shifter had rotated 90º.
> And my derailer hanger and the derailer were bent. I spun the crank while
> off the bike and it seemed to move okay so I thought I'd give it a go as a
> single speed.
>
> I pedaled for a few strokes, then nudged the shifter. It was at that time
> the derailer turned upside down and inside out, bending into the spokes and
> throwing the chain. It was really fun!
>
> 
>
>
> This is my Hillborne, my most-ridden bike. I'll see if the hanger can be
> bent but I have a feeling it will require some work from a frame builder.
> That's a Suntour Cyclone. Fortunately I have five of them (including this
> one). You might recall the cage tension spring in my previous Cyclone
> recently failed. This is one of the replacements I picked up. It was in
> excellent shape but now it's going to the salvage bin.
>
> While I was waiting for a ride four people stopped to ask if they could
> help me. One was a cyclist who said "You need anything?" I replied "I
> need derailer hanger, a rear mech and a welding torch!"
>
> Hope your weekend rides weren't so mechanically eventful.
>
> Eric
>
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> 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wanted post worries

[Ted W]

Thank you for your work, Jim. Appreciate the proactive move to remove the
lurkers and for your continued efforts to moderate the list.

On Fri, Jul 21, 2023 at 2:20 AM Cyclofiend Jim  wrote:

> I have removed a couple of "members" who joined in the last month or so
> and seem to be here only to solicit direct transactions.
>
> Jim
>
> On Thursday, July 20, 2023 at 11:08:48 PM UTC-7 Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>
>> Just as a reminder, this is a publicly viewable list.
>>
>> The contact settings allow members of the group to contact another
>> member. Potentially, someone could join just to do so. That would mean that
>> they likely have not ever posted to the group, as their postings would be
>> moderated until they reach out to me directly.
>>
>> If the person shows no history of activity in the group, I'd strongly
>> encourage you to confirm they are legitimate. You can easily search by
>> member name or email.
>>
>> JIm / admin
>> On Thursday, July 20, 2023 at 10:52:53 PM UTC-7 melissa...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bummer. This post came a few days too late. Anita made off with 37 of my
>>> hard-earned dollars and no cork grips in sight :'(
>>>
>>> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 11:16:20 AM UTC-4 Josh C wrote:
>>>
 Can you even tell if someone posts often, other than just being
 familiar with their name? I've been on here for a couple of years but also
 don't really post much. I find that most questions I might have are often
 answered by a quick search and review of old threads. There is a wealth of
 knowledge on this group. It's hard to know if someone is trying to scam
 you. I guess using PayPal or some form of protected payment is the way to
 go.

 On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 11:00:09 AM UTC-4 jrst...@gmail.com wrote:

> I better post more often as I like selling on this list and giving
> good deals. It seems scams are all around us.
>
> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 9:30:31 AM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Ted Wood,
>>
>> I got caught up in a spider web with Anita Batya most recently for
>> those *REW10 WORKS* hex brass valve caps . I was taken for a real
>> agitating tail spin with her. Still waiting for an answer from Paypal 
>> for a
>> refund to finalize my interests with her.
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, July 16, 2023 at 4:38:13 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Always check the members list at https://groups.google.come before
>>> replying to wanted post DMs. I was recently scammed out of a *whopping* 
>>> $17
>>> by not following my own advice. Watch for Anita as well.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 15, 2023 at 2:07 PM larson@gmail.com <
>>> larson@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 I had similar responses to my post. Eduardo wanted to sell me an
 Atlantis MIT frameset for $600.
 Randy in WI

 On Saturday, July 15, 2023 at 12:58:44 PM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:

> It's good to be careful. It's a weird world these days.
>
> On Saturday, July 15, 2023 at 12:50:16 PM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:
>
>> Greetings all,
>>
>> I posted a want ad yesterday for an Albastache bar and got a
>> couple responses from people I’ve never seen here before. I do know 
>> there
>> are lurkers on the list so if Denise and Eduardo Garcia are members 
>> here
>> please follow up with more info.
>> It’s a shame we have to worry about scammers all the time now and
>> my apologies if I am wrong.
>>
>> Liz in Sacramento
>
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>>> --
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>>>
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Re: [RBW] New Member New Riv

[Ted W]

Hey Jim, welcome! I was also fortunate enough to pick up an Appaloosa in
the last release. I debated a long time on what color to get and ultimately
went with the purple. It’s a great bike and I know you’re going to love it!

On Fri, Jul 21, 2023 at 1:53 AM Jim Meltsner  wrote:

> Hi this is my first post. My lime green Appaloosa arrived last week and I
> am looking forward to getting it built and ridden. I plan to use is as my
> commuter rig.
> Jim
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Drivetrain question...

[Ted W]

OT: Yeah, 46-11 is a lot. It really depends on the terrain you ride but for
where I live (fairly hilly) I’ve found that 42 front and 11-36 rear hits
the sweet spot for commuting. With an 11-36 cassette I only occasionally
find myself wanting a lower range every once in a while and I would say
there are an equal number of descents where I’m glad I have 42-11. If I was
less interested in using my commute as daily exercise, I could see value in
going to 38 or 40 up front, even. But im the type who likes to pedal up and
down hills.

On Thu, Jul 20, 2023 at 1:46 PM Garth  wrote:

> I forgot the gear inch link here :
>
>
> https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS=26,46=11,13,15,18,22,27,33,40=2330=90=2.6=KMH=gearInches
>
> As you can see, the 46-11 is comically large, shame on all the parts mfg
> for offering so few usable choices.
>
> On Thursday, July 20, 2023 at 1:07:26 PM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> I have a V/O wide double crankset that has 46/26 rings, I'm considering
>> buying the Shimano, Acera M3020 which is rated to 40 teeth, and matching it
>> with an 11-40 Shimano 8-speed wide range cassette that Riv sells. I plan to
>> keep it friction.
>>
>> The max front difference for the RD is 20 teeth, so 46–26= 20.
>>
>> The total stated capacity of the Acera is 45 teeth, I'm not clear what
>> this means or how to calculate that figure.
>>
>> Would there be a reason the combination of chainrings, cassette, and rear
>> derailleur would not play well?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Scott
>>
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Re: [RBW] WTB SURLY MOLOKO

[Ted W]

DM sent

On Wed, Jul 19, 2023 at 10:07 AM Davey Two Shoes 
wrote:

> Does anyone have one of these laying around? Would love to clear it out of
> your parts bin for you!
>
> Thanks
> Dave
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Wanted post worries

[Ted W]

Always check the members list at https://groups.google.come before replying
to wanted post DMs. I was recently scammed out of a *whopping* $17 by not
following my own advice. Watch for Anita as well.

On Sat, Jul 15, 2023 at 2:07 PM larson@gmail.com <
larson.phot...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I had similar responses to my post. Eduardo wanted to sell me an Atlantis
> MIT frameset for $600.
> Randy in WI
>
> On Saturday, July 15, 2023 at 12:58:44 PM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:
>
>> It's good to be careful. It's a weird world these days.
>>
>> On Saturday, July 15, 2023 at 12:50:16 PM UTC-4 Lucky wrote:
>>
>>> Greetings all,
>>>
>>> I posted a want ad yesterday for an Albastache bar and got a couple
>>> responses from people I’ve never seen here before. I do know there are
>>> lurkers on the list so if Denise and Eduardo Garcia are members here please
>>> follow up with more info.
>>> It’s a shame we have to worry about scammers all the time now and my
>>> apologies if I am wrong.
>>>
>>> Liz in Sacramento
>>
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>
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Re: [RBW] Grant interview on Path Less Pedaled

[Ted W]

I had started watching this last night. Great interview but not something
to be watched while laying in bed unless one wishes to fall asleep ;)

Correct Link -> https://youtu.be/K9P_chxaX28

On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 11:25 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Jim: The link led me to an advertorial on a spice subscription service and
> I don't see (at first glance) on the site a feature interview with Grant.
>
> On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:18 AM Jim M.  wrote:
>
>> I found this worth an hour: https://youtu.be/kuPEIY3qol0
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> --
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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> 
> .
>


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[RBW] Reminder: Check that DMs are from someone on this list before transacting

[Ted W]

A reminder to everyone participating in buying and selling here to always
check that the person DMing you is a member of the group before you
interact with them. Unfortunately, I did not take my own advice here. Don't
be like me.

PS. I'm still looking for brass bits ;)

-- Forwarded message -
From: Ted W 
Date: Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:49 PM
Subject: Re:
To: anita Batya 


No, I will send the money after it arrives or it can sit in Statesboro.
Your choice. I’ve paid what we agreed and I’m willing to help you recoup
the cost of your mistake but I’ve been scammed enough times in my life to
know never to send the additional money before receiving the item in
question.

Ball is in your court. Pay it and I’ll reimburse or I can just let the
mailing list (and admin) know you’re a scammer and I’ll move on with my
life.

On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:44 PM anita Batya  wrote:

> You will have to send the additional money to cover shipping
> which is $12. I thought i told you the order is in Statesboro
> and not moving.
> I will give you new paypal details that will cover that.
>
> On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 6:36 PM Ted W  wrote:
>
>> Yes, once the items have arrived at my house I will send additional money
>> to cover the extra shipping costs
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:28 PM anita Batya  wrote:
>>
>>> Did you get my reply regarding your order?
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 6, 2023 at 9:52 PM anita Batya  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Ted
>>>>
>>>> When your message popped in i got to confirm
>>>> why  your order has not arrived.to my amazement
>>>> there was a mispackaging of 3 blue lug brass
>>>> crank caps instead of just one.it has been stopped
>>>> in statesboro due to additional shipping fee needed.
>>>> it's an error from my end here but i will have to plead.
>>>> can you help in sending $12 when you receive the package
>>>> you can sell of the other two and keep the funds.
>>>> So sorry for any inconvenience...
>>>>
>>>> Anita
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:43 AM Ted W  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Anita,
>>>>>
>>>>> Please let me know when you are able to get this in the mail.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Ted
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Jul 4, 2023 at 8:59 AM anita Batya 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Ted
>>>>>> How are you today,Hope you are good.Happy independence from here...
>>>>>> shipping did not take off yesterday due to time and shipping will not
>>>>>> be available  today due to the public holiday.
>>>>>> Work will commence on wednesday july 5th,pls bear with me and sorry
>>>>>> for
>>>>>> any inconveniences.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anita
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 6:49 PM anita Batya 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Got it. Shipping will commence soon to your address.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023, 6:33 PM Ted W  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> [image: Screenshot 2023-07-03 at 1.32.51 PM.png]
>>>>>>>> I've sent the Paypal as shown.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Shipping address is 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 11:24 AM anita Batya 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi Ted
>>>>>>>>> I will let it go for $17 shipping fee included .I will send you my
>>>>>>>>> PayPal
>>>>>>>>> details now.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --
>>>>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>>>>
>>>> --
>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>
> --
Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >


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[RBW] Reminder: Beware of scammers on this list

[Ted W]

Let this be a reminder to everyone to always skim the group conversation
history for posting history of a user before doing business with someone
who DMs you. Shame on me for failing to do so.

Beware of this scammer.

-- Forwarded message -
From: Ted W 
Date: Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 12:49 PM
Subject: Re:
To: anita Batya 


No, I will send the money after it arrives or it can sit in Statesboro.
Your choice. I’ve paid what we agreed and I’m will to help you recoup the
cost of your mistake but I’ve been scammed enough times in my life to know
never to send the additional money before receiving the item in question.

Hall is in your court. Pay it and I’ll reimburse or I can just let the
mailing list (and admin) know you’re a scammer and I’ll move on with my
life.

On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:44 PM anita Batya  wrote:

> You will have to send the additional money to cover shipping
> which is $12. I thought i told you the order is in Statesboro
> and not moving.
> I will give you new paypal details that will cover that.
>
> On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 6:36 PM Ted W  wrote:
>
>> Yes, once the items have arrived at my house I will send additional money
>> to cover the extra shipping costs
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:28 PM anita Batya  wrote:
>>
>>> Did you get my reply regarding your order?
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 6, 2023 at 9:52 PM anita Batya  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Ted
>>>>
>>>> When your message popped in i got to confirm
>>>> why  your order has not arrived.to my amazement
>>>> there was a mispackaging of 3 blue lug brass
>>>> crank caps instead of just one.it has been stopped
>>>> in statesboro due to additional shipping fee needed.
>>>> it's an error from my end here but i will have to plead.
>>>> can you help in sending $12 when you receive the package
>>>> you can sell of the other two and keep the funds.
>>>> So sorry for any inconvenience...
>>>>
>>>> Anita
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Jul 7, 2023 at 1:43 AM Ted W  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi Anita,
>>>>>
>>>>> Please let me know when you are able to get this in the mail.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Ted
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tue, Jul 4, 2023 at 8:59 AM anita Batya 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Ted
>>>>>> How are you today,Hope you are good.Happy independence from here...
>>>>>> shipping did not take off yesterday due to time and shipping will not
>>>>>> be available  today due to the public holiday.
>>>>>> Work will commence on wednesday july 5th,pls bear with me and sorry
>>>>>> for
>>>>>> any inconveniences.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anita
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 6:49 PM anita Batya 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Got it. Shipping will commence soon to your address.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023, 6:33 PM Ted W  wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> [image: Screenshot 2023-07-03 at 1.32.51 PM.png]
>>>>>>>> I've sent the Paypal as shown.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Shipping address is 1851 Meadow Ln, Decatur, GA, 30032
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 11:24 AM anita Batya 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hi Ted
>>>>>>>>> I will let it go for $17 shipping fee included .I will send you my
>>>>>>>>> PayPal
>>>>>>>>> details now.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --
>>>>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>>>>
>>>> --
>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>
> --
Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >


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Re: [RBW] Nicest silver Tektro upright canti brake levers?

[Ted W]

I’m a fan of the FL540s. They come in both black/silver and silver/silver
variants. The silver/silver seems to be a bit harder to find right now, but
they’re real pretty.

On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 6:08 PM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:

> Howdy folks.
>
> What are the nicest all silver Tektro upright bar canti brake levers
> currently available?  I’m redoing the bars and shifters on my Joe Appaloosa
> and the cantis already on it are Tektro.
>
> Thanks, Doug
>
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Re: [RBW] RAGBRAI L

[Ted W]

I’ve yet to do RAGBAI. It’s been on my list for years but there always seem
to be a reason I can’t make it happen. Hopefully, once my son is older,
I’ll be able to get there. I do ride BRAG every year, though. Have always
had an interesting bike to ride for the week but next year will be the
first time on a Riv.

On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 7:38 PM Brady Smith  wrote:

> I'll be there on my Roadini.
>
> On Monday, July 3, 2023 at 4:19:57 PM UTC-6 Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>
>> I plan to ride my Homer
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 2:51 PM Michael Moore, Jr. 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Not this year, but I hope to bring my Bleriot in 2024 or 2025. I hear
>>> great things. Have fun!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Michael Moore, Jr.
>>> Arcata, CA
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 12:21 PM Rusty Click  wrote:
>>>
 Anyone bringing their Riv to Iowa for RAGBRAI this year??
 Every year, I see a few and have met a few (Hello Julian), and would
 like to maybe meet over some "Church Lady" pie and a cold refreshment!

 Rusty
 Pgh,PA

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>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Brass bits and bobs

[Ted W]

Thanks Max! I didn't know about Analog Cycles. I've bookmarked them for
future reference.

On Mon, Jul 3, 2023 at 11:09 AM maxcr  wrote:

> Hi Ted,
>
> I'm not sure if you're looking for used bits, but if you're ok paying for
> new, Analog Cycles has some of what you're looking for and they ship really
> fast:
>
> https://analogcycles.com/products/blue-lug-brass-square-taper-crank-extractor?_pos=15&_sid=30764e461&_ss=r
>
> Max
>
> On Monday, July 3, 2023 at 10:52:59 AM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I'm leaning in to the purple and gold/brass color scheme on the new Appa
>> and I'm looking for the following:
>>
>> * Blue Lug 1" brass headset spacers
>> * Blue Lug brass crank caps
>>
>> If you have either of these or any other brass bits and bobs that might
>> be interesting feel free to message me off-list, thanks!
>>
>> --
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
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> .
>


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[RBW] WTB: Brass bits and bobs

[Ted W]

I'm leaning in to the purple and gold/brass color scheme on the new Appa
and I'm looking for the following:

* Blue Lug 1" brass headset spacers
* Blue Lug brass crank caps

If you have either of these or any other brass bits and bobs that might be
interesting feel free to message me off-list, thanks!

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Re: [RBW] 650b Gravel Bikes?

[Ted W]

I don’t know about a bike dedicated to 650B in all sizes but some smaller
Rivs come as a 650B and the Susie is 650B… but what is a gravel bike, after
all, but a bike ridden on gravel or hard-pack dirt roads? I would classify
most of the bikes made by Riv as gravel or gravel adjacent. They’ve almost
all got generous tire clearance. The only thing modern gravel bikes have
that Rivs lack are expensive electronics and disc brakes, really…

On Sat, Jul 1, 2023 at 4:47 PM George Schick  wrote:

> There has been a lot of discussion about "gravel bikes" on this blog
> lately, but has there been any consideration given to a 650B gravel bike,
> so to speak?  IOW, are there any bikes set up like a 650B and with
> available "gravel accommodating" tires available?  Maybe I've missed
> something in the discussion threads, but I can't recall seeing this.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Appaloosa Build Opinions

[Ted W]

I have an old tig welded bullmoose-style bar I got from a scrap bike many
years ago. Maybe I should give that bar a try given all the praise *-moose
style bars are receiving here... Doesn't have much sweep, though.

On Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 1:22 PM lconley  wrote:

> $91 shipping charge for the Chocomoose from Blue Lug - total of $176.20 -
> big awkward box no doubt. They were in stock at Rivendell until a month or
> two ago. I had been thinking about trying some out, and then they were
> gone. I have fillet-brazed Boscomoose and Bullmoose, and I also love the
> solid feel of the one piece bar and stem combos.
>
> Laing
>
> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 1:00:03 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> In my opinion, the bars that the very first Appaloosas originally came
>> with are still the best choice:  Choco-moose.  I don't understand the
>> supply-chain realities, but here we are with Riv listing them at $210 and
>> out of stock, but Blue Lug sells them for $85.20 and they are in stock.
>> There is no question that is the bar I would run on an Appaloosa.
>>
>> There are many flavors of handwringers, though.  One flavor of
>> handwringer would wring hands over not being able to adjust the angle of a
>> Moose bar.  Another flavor of handwringer would wring hands over an
>> independent Choco bar being too flexy.  I'm the second kind, and LOVE the
>> rock solid feel of the Choco moose.  When I had an Appaloosa, I needed to
>> slam that stem to get them as low as I wanted.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 7:08:44 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Got my Appa on Monday, built it yesterday and commuted to work on it
>>> today. First impressions are that it's exactly what I had hoped for. The
>>> ride is amazing and it feels so plush while still remaining responsive;
>>> nimble yet stable. But I think it could still be better and I want to
>>> channel the wisdom of the group.
>>>
>>> Currently, I have the bike built with drop bars (50cm V/O Randonneur).
>>> However, I know this frame, like many of the Riv frames, is really built
>>> with swept back bars in mind. Knowing this, I went with a stem that's about
>>> half my "typical" length. Unfortunately, it still feels like quite a reach
>>> to get on the hoods, not impossible, but not "normal". So, this is where my
>>> question starts:
>>>
>>> Do I continue to try shortening the stem, say to maybe 30-40mm, or do I
>>> give in to my swept bar destiny and spring for some new bars? And if I go
>>> with sweeps, which bars do people like on the Appa? I have 65mm Tosco bars
>>> on my Gus and it's wonderful on that bike, but being that I don't want to
>>> be quite so upright (and there's not quite as much room) on the Appa. I was
>>> thinking of going with either Billie or Albatross bars. The two are so
>>> similar, however, that I'm having a hard time deciding between the two. I'm
>>> probably splitting hairs, as usual, but I'm genuinely curious to see what
>>> y'all think.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> --
>>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Build Opinions

[Ted W]

That's an interesting idea, Doug. I would have never considered flipping
Albatross bars like that. Another option I've considered is Mustache bars
with flat bar levers near the back instead of the typical road levers up
front. It seems to me like those are similar, if narrower, than something
like the Albatross bar but have a similar (slightly more accentuated)
curve. And, like flipping the albatross bars, would give a drop instead of
a rise... I might play with that idea a bit tonight.

On Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 11:36 AM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:

> Hey Ted.
>
> I personally wouldn't run a super short stem, but those wide drops (and if
> I'm not mistaken relatively long reach) are making things worse for you.  A
> narrower modern bend, short and shallow drop bar would reduce the reach a
> fair bit, I think.  That said, I don't think any of the current super long
> chainstay RBW bikes are really suited for drops.  I just put together a JA
> that came with Albatross' and a Technomic, 9cm I think, and it feels too
> close and too tall in front.  It's a 51cm IIRC, whichever size is 650B, and
> the PBH size chart would have put me one size smaller.  I have a
> Choco-Moose waiting to go on it, I'm hoping that slammed it will give me
> more reach and lower bar height.
>
> Doug
>
> P.S.  You might consider flipped Albatross' as well, less reach and drop
> than any actual drop bar but still some...
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 7:08 AM Ted W  wrote:
>
>> Got my Appa on Monday, built it yesterday and commuted to work on it
>> today. First impressions are that it's exactly what I had hoped for. The
>> ride is amazing and it feels so plush while still remaining responsive;
>> nimble yet stable. But I think it could still be better and I want to
>> channel the wisdom of the group.
>>
>> Currently, I have the bike built with drop bars (50cm V/O Randonneur).
>> However, I know this frame, like many of the Riv frames, is really built
>> with swept back bars in mind. Knowing this, I went with a stem that's about
>> half my "typical" length. Unfortunately, it still feels like quite a reach
>> to get on the hoods, not impossible, but not "normal". So, this is where my
>> question starts:
>>
>> Do I continue to try shortening the stem, say to maybe 30-40mm, or do I
>> give in to my swept bar destiny and spring for some new bars? And if I go
>> with sweeps, which bars do people like on the Appa? I have 65mm Tosco bars
>> on my Gus and it's wonderful on that bike, but being that I don't want to
>> be quite so upright (and there's not quite as much room) on the Appa. I was
>> thinking of going with either Billie or Albatross bars. The two are so
>> similar, however, that I'm having a hard time deciding between the two. I'm
>> probably splitting hairs, as usual, but I'm genuinely curious to see what
>> y'all think.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> --
>> Ted Wood < ted.l.w...@gmail.com >
>>
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[RBW] Appaloosa Build Opinions

[Ted W]

Got my Appa on Monday, built it yesterday and commuted to work on it today.
First impressions are that it's exactly what I had hoped for. The ride is
amazing and it feels so plush while still remaining responsive; nimble yet
stable. But I think it could still be better and I want to channel the
wisdom of the group.

Currently, I have the bike built with drop bars (50cm V/O Randonneur).
However, I know this frame, like many of the Riv frames, is really built
with swept back bars in mind. Knowing this, I went with a stem that's about
half my "typical" length. Unfortunately, it still feels like quite a reach
to get on the hoods, not impossible, but not "normal". So, this is where my
question starts:

Do I continue to try shortening the stem, say to maybe 30-40mm, or do I
give in to my swept bar destiny and spring for some new bars? And if I go
with sweeps, which bars do people like on the Appa? I have 65mm Tosco bars
on my Gus and it's wonderful on that bike, but being that I don't want to
be quite so upright (and there's not quite as much room) on the Appa. I was
thinking of going with either Billie or Albatross bars. The two are so
similar, however, that I'm having a hard time deciding between the two. I'm
probably splitting hairs, as usual, but I'm genuinely curious to see what
y'all think.

Cheers,
-- 
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Re: [RBW] FS: Cotton / linen summer shirt

[Ted W]

That’sa great looking shirt! Sad I didn’t see your email sooner! I really
love riding in these very thin merino t-shirts I found from ice breaker but
they’re quite expensive and the material falls apart after a couple of
years due to how thin it is. Recently switched over to button front, short
sleeved shirts, linen and/or cotton seersucker, and they’re great for the
hot and humid summers here in the south-east.

On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 9:33 PM Eric Marth  wrote:

> And sold, thanks!
> On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 6:09:30 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Oh, I'll take it; be just right for hot weather riding.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, 4:04 pm MDST
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 4:02 PM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_6512.JPG]
>>>
>>> Hello people — I picked this up for summer riding and it's a bit too big
>>> for me.
>>>
>>> Ike Behar shirt, 50% cotton, 50% linen. Tan and white stripes, made in
>>> Canada. Labelled a large but fits bigger. Great condition overall, I like a
>>> cotton-linen blend for the summer.
>>>
>>> Pit to pit: 24"
>>> Top of shoulder to bottom hem: 33"
>>> Pit to cuff: 8"
>>>
>>> Let's say $20 shipped, net to me, CONUS. PayPal Friends & Family, Venmo.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_6514.JPG][image: IMG_6513.JPG][image: IMG_6515.JPG]
>>>
>>> --
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>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone using an Appaloosa as a mostly-road bike?

[Ted W]

Fun to hear these descriptions and advice. As a soon to be Appa owner
planning to use it for 80/20, on/off-road I’ll be setting it up mostly as a
road bike but, really looking for an all-terrain bike with big tire
clearance and a road-ish feel.

Also, Collin, thank you for sharing your experience with the Appa and
drops. I’ve got a purple Appa coming in and I was worried about ETT being
so long with drops. If I may ask (and I don’t want to derail the main convo
so feel free to reply to me direct), what length stem do you normally use
for drops and compared with what you’re using on the Appa? I’ve been trying
to sort out what I’ll need and I think I’ve narrowed it down but would love
some direct experience to influence my decision.

PS. I don’t think your images uploaded correctly, they’re not showing up
for me either on the Google groups page or via email.

On Mon, Jun 19, 2023 at 1:26 PM Collin A  wrote:

> I had my 51 650b Joe setup as a mostly road/dirt touring bike for a couple
> years, and it has gone through many iterations since then (currently living
> life as a 1x9 flatland commuter). Is it a road race bike? No. Is it a fun
> bike to ride on the road and connect the many dirt trails/roads/etc. that a
> road bike would struggle on? Yes.
>
> It was already mentioned, but short stems are your friend, and personally
> I like the more modern-style drops with shorter reach and drop. A couple
> photos for inspiration from Auburn area dirt trails:
>
> I'd think your legolas would fit that niche better than a Joe, but at the
> same time I wouldn't dare suggest to someone on this list to not buy
> another Rivendell.
>
> Cheers,
> Collin in Sunny Berkeley
>
> On Sunday, June 18, 2023 at 7:36:33 AM UTC-7 reynoldslugs wrote:
>
>> Hi all, can’t remember the last time I posted.   Long-time Rivendell
>> rider, since 1998 or so; my current stable includes Atlantis, Legolas,
>> Custom, Rambouillet, Heron Road, maybe one or two others (I gave my
>> Quickbeam to a friend when my knees got to creaky for fixed gear riding).
>>
>> My current curiosity/notion/interest is whether I should add an Appaloosa
>> to the flock.  If any of you ride one as a mostly-road, perhaps drop-bar
>> bike, I would be grateful for your impressions, feedback.
>>
>> I do a fair amount of road + steep gravel rides - - if you are familiar
>> with Sonoma County, that means Coleman Valley + Willow Creek, and Sonoma
>> Mountain Road + Bald Mountain.  I’m interested in a bike that does well on
>> pavement and rides well on steep, rutted, dirt and gravel roads.
>>
>> Grateful for any opinions and feedback, thanks.
>>
>> Max Beach
>> Santa Rosa CA
>>
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Re: [RBW] FS: MUSA Pants, T-Shirts, A Railroad Shirt, and a Couple Other Things

[Ted W]

Thanks for the shorts, Daniel! Package arrived today and they’re perfect!

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM Daniel Rooke  wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I have the following items for sale:
>
>
>- One grey Peace Wheel T-shirt size XL - new but without tags: $15
>- One Blue Platypus T-shirt size XL - worn a few times but in good
>shape: $15
>- One pair of the new Black MUSA pants size Large - worn a couple
>times, washed in cold water and lined dried: $90
>- One pair of the old MUSA grey pants size L - in good used condition
>but there is a rip on the thigh, which is visible in the pictures - it will
>probably need to be repaired: $50
>- One pair of the new Ranger Green MUSA shorts still in the packaging
>- size L: $75
>- One Navy Woolpower 400 1/4 zip sweater sz. XL: $50
>- One Rivendell Railroad Stripe Shirt sz. XL - two oil stains near the
>MUSA logo but otherwise in good condition: $60
>- One tig-welded Nitto Bullmoose handlebars (these are not the same as
>the filet brazed ones for sale on the Rivendell website) - never used but
>mounted in a frame: $100 + cost of shipping (will require a larger box)
>- One pair of 700 x 50 Soma Cazadero tires - never used: $80
>
>
> Prices don’t include shipping.  Individual items can be shipped together
> to reduce costs. Please send a zip code and I can supply shipping
> information.  Any Questions or comments send me a message.
>
> Pictures
> 
>
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Re: [RBW] Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[Ted W]

I love how the tail light is mounted. Is that a purpose made clamp or is
that a rack clamp repurposed?

On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 12:31 PM Matthew Williams <
matthewwilliamsdes...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone, here are a few photos of the progress.
>
> I’ve installed the taillight, just need to clean up the wiring.
>
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>
>
> Waiting on a couple of parts for the headlight.
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: ISO Better Bar-End Friction Shifting!

[Ted W]

I agree with the other folks here, if it’s popping off the chainring, is it
popping off inside or outside? Was the bike originally a 1x or did you do a
conversion? If you converted it, did you reuse an old double/triple crank?
Did you put the ring on the inside or outside of the spider? Did you use a
narrow-wide chainring?

All of these things are important and can affect the reliability of the
chain staying on the chainring. Usually this will either be because of, as
others have said, chain tension or lack of a clutched derailer if it’s
popping off over bumps. If it’s popping off when shifting, I’d be
suspicious of your chain line.

On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 4:32 PM Caroline Golum 
wrote:

> Part of this issue too, FWIW, is my ongoing frustration with hitting
> specific gears with a friction shifter. If the chain slack is the culprit
> or the derailleur hanger then it takes care of two problems and I don't
> hate that!
>
> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 3:45:43 PM UTC-4 John Hawrylak, Woodstown NJ
> wrote:
>
>> Caroline
>>
>> Might want to consider installing a N-Gear Jump Stop or similar chain
>> stop device on the seat tube to prevent the chain from coming off.  Sounds
>> like when you shift, you develop a wave in the chain which takes it off the
>> ring
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Thursday, June 8, 2023 at 1:32:44 PM UTC-4 Caroline Golum wrote:
>>
>>> Currently running 1x10 and friction bar-end shifting. The chain keeps
>>> coming off my crank, not hitting the right gear in the rear, etc. I've had
>>> the derailleur serviced, it's fine, etc.
>>>
>>> Time to get a new shifter? Switch to indexed shifting? Switch to an
>>> 8/9spd in the rear? The bar-end shifter is RBW's Shifter - Silver2
>>> .
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[Ted W]

Thanks for the info, Garth! So, apologies about the confusion in my last
email. I am on a bike tour this week and trying to do everything on my
phone leads to funny wording sometimes, not to mention the difficulty
constructing coherent thoughts with the brain fog from all day riding. I
did not mean to say they were “mostly identical”, you are correct, there is
quite a difference. However, considering that I needed a longer set back
seat post and very long stem on the LHT, the extra room should be a
welcomed difference and the end result of the fit should be mostly
identical using normal-ish parts (standard set back and reasonable length
stem). I was able to use the LHT as a reference for how the Appa would fit
in relation to something I had experience with, despite their differences
and that’s teLly what I was trying to figure out. The last thing I wanted
to do was wind up with something that was severally out of whack to where I
wouldn’t enjoy such an otherwise lovely bike.

On Thu, Jun 8, 2023 at 8:48 AM Garth  wrote:

> Ted, Origin8 makes a "Pro Fit"  zero setback 26.8 silver seatpost. (365
> Cycles sells them) I don't know about the quality of the hardware. I'm
> mainly referring to the bolts and the length of the clamp itself as to how
> long it holds the rails. Kalloy for example, sucks !  Nitto and Thomson
> make them in 26.8 for more money but have proper clamps and stout bolts.
> This will allow you to get your saddle positioned over the BB where you
> need it. *This positioning comes first*, before any consideration of
> reach to the bars.
>
> By the way, the STA and HTA are anything but nearly identical ! The
> difference between 71.5d and 73d in seat angle = appx. 18mm further back of
> the seat tube at saddle height. The 72d and 71d HTA means the Appa bars
> don't move back as much as they do with the shallower LHT. This is where
> when comparing frames you must look at everything in relation with
> everything else. I'm assuming these two frames :
>
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa4,5f5e45837fbbda0017192063
>
> You can input things here https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ if you really want
> to see how things change. It's sorta geeky, but you catch on how it works.
> It beats buying the wrong frame though.
>
> I've edited this so much my heads spinning so forgive me if it's a bit
> scattered !
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[Ted W]

Thanks to the help from my LBS I was directed to bike insights and pulled
up another frame I own and compared it to the Appa. I came to the
conclusion that I should go with the 57cm based on the overlaid wire frames
of the bikes and purchased one of these in purple.

To Hoch’s question, I want to run drop bars. I’ve tried swept back bars on
my Gus and while I like it, this build will serve a different purpose and
I’m generally more comfortable with a more upright, drop bar position.

To expand a bit (ok a lot), the 57cm Appa had a difference of about 45mm
overall compared to the 54cm Surly Disc Trucker it will be replacing. I
naively purchased the trucker thinking I could get away with the smaller
frame to maintain 26” wheels by stretching it out with a longer stem and
long setback seat post. I was successful, however, in doing so I changed
the handling characteristics quite negatively (I believe due to extending
the reach so dramatically) and this make it feel like the front wheel
wanted to flop over when cornering. When lining up the BB in the wire frame
models, the seat tube and head tube angles of the two bikes were nearly
identical and the tops of the seat post collar was fairly similar. The
primary differences were the extended wheelbase of the Appa due to the
extra long chainstays and the head tube being about 45mm further forward,
as mentioned previously. So, this made it fairly easy to realize that I
could get the 57cm Appa and got quite nicely with a rather “normal” stem
length of around 50mm instead of the 120mm I needed on the Surly.

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 10:33 PM DavidP  wrote:

> Hoch's question about intended bars gets to the crux of choosing a frame
> size, I think - you want a larger roomier frame for swept back bars and
> less reach for drop bars though by changing stem length you can likely get
> both bars to work on either.
>
> I have the same PBH as you and am comfortable on drop bar bikes with 58cm
> ETT. By comparison the ETT on my 60cm Platy seems astronomical, and yet I
> run a 120mm stem along with swept back bars and have a fairly upright
> position (~75deg back angle) when back on the grips.
>
> With regards to your concern about reach - I may be missing something but
> the extra 2cm reach also means the BB moves back along with the seat tube
> (since reach is measured from BB forward) so the saddle / knee / pedal
> alignment isn't impacted? What would impact the saddle to BB alignment is a
> difference in seat tube angle.
>
> Have you compared the bike geometries on Bike Insights?
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa5,,
>
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 9:28:44 PM UTC-4 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>>
>> Ted, are you setting up the Appaloosa with dropbars or flat bars?
>> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 6:09:50 PM UTC-6 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Long rambling post ahead, but bear with me...
>>>
>>> Folks, I'm stressing about this way more than is probably necessary but
>>> I've been pining for an Appaloosa for years and I really want to make sure
>>> I won't be bummed out by a poor fit. So, here's the deal. I called Riv and
>>> spoke with Roman. After discussing my current bike and my size he suggested
>>> the 57cm. Now, I'm not doubting his knowledge on the subject but I can't
>>> wrap my head around the difference in measurements between what I'm
>>> currently riding and the 57cm Appaloosa and I'm hoping maybe to get some
>>> more opinions on the subject to either help me be comfortable with the idea
>>> of the 57 or realize that I need the 54...
>>>
>>> Current bike has the following measurements:
>>> 58cm ETT, approx. 39cm reach, 57cm stack and 83cm standover
>>>
>>> The 57cm Appa has:
>>> 62.5cm ETT, 41.3cm reach, 63.5cm stack and 85.2cm standover
>>>
>>> The 54cm Appa has:
>>> 59.8cm ETT, 39.6cm reach, 60.3cm stack and 82.3cm standover
>>>
>>> My PBH is around 87cm so I have plenty of room for either size
>>>
>>> My current bike has a standard setback seatpost with a B17 saddle. I
>>> have a 100mm quill stem and Velo Orange, 50m randonneur bars and 170mm
>>> crank arms. In this configuration, the bike is almost perfect.
>>>
>>> Now, I think I'd be quite happy with the additional standover and stack
>>> height; my current bike has around 160mm of steerer sticking up out of the
>>> head tube, so being able to drop that by 70mm would be aesthetically
>>> beneficial. Not to mention the extra top tube length combined with the more
>>> slack head tube of the Appa might prevent the toe overlap And since I'm
>>> currently running a 100mm stem, I can easily cut that back to accommodate
>>> the additional reach.
>>>
>>> My main concern with the 57cm Appa is the ETT length as it relates to my
>>> knee angle / knee-ankle line. I seem to have a fairly short femur as I'm
>>> always having to push my saddles fairly far forward to get my knee in line
>>> with, or slightly over my ankle to avoid pain in my knees. Being that my
>>> current bike has only 

Re: [RBW] Gauging interest: Brass cable housing clamps

[Ted W]

Not sure if my last message went through or not since I don’t think my
email had been approved for the list yet. I’m interested.

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:07 PM P W  wrote:

> Count me in for a couple!
>
> P. W.
> ~
> (917) 514-2207
> ~
>
>
>
>
> On Jun 1, 2023, at 5:11 PM, Eric Marth  wrote:
>
> Hello friends — I recently found some nice brass cable housing clamps.
> The manufacturer liked my pictures and asked if I'd be interested in
> importing some for other cyclists.
>
> I love the idea but I'm just not sure how many I could sell.
>
> The clamps are $10/each before shipping costs are factored in. They're
> made from solid brass in the UK. It's a two-piece clamp, bolt, two washers
> and an 8mm hex nut. These were designed to hold fuel pipes on old British
> race cars! But they fit 5mm housing very well.
>
> If you're interested, drop me a line and let's see if we can get some nice
> clamps on our non-aero cables. I think they're work anywhere you need to
> clamp your housing.
>
> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>
> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
>
> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
>
> --
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> 
> .
> <230530 Clamp 01 S.jpg>
> <230530 Clamp 03 S.jpg>
> <230530 Clamp 02 S.jpg>
>
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>
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[RBW] Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[Ted W]

Long rambling post ahead, but bear with me...

Folks, I'm stressing about this way more than is probably necessary but
I've been pining for an Appaloosa for years and I really want to make sure
I won't be bummed out by a poor fit. So, here's the deal. I called Riv and
spoke with Roman. After discussing my current bike and my size he suggested
the 57cm. Now, I'm not doubting his knowledge on the subject but I can't
wrap my head around the difference in measurements between what I'm
currently riding and the 57cm Appaloosa and I'm hoping maybe to get some
more opinions on the subject to either help me be comfortable with the idea
of the 57 or realize that I need the 54...

Current bike has the following measurements:
58cm ETT, approx. 39cm reach, 57cm stack and 83cm standover

The 57cm Appa has:
62.5cm ETT, 41.3cm reach, 63.5cm stack and 85.2cm standover

The 54cm Appa has:
59.8cm ETT, 39.6cm reach, 60.3cm stack and 82.3cm standover

My PBH is around 87cm so I have plenty of room for either size

My current bike has a standard setback seatpost with a B17 saddle. I have a
100mm quill stem and Velo Orange, 50m randonneur bars and 170mm crank arms.
In this configuration, the bike is almost perfect.

Now, I think I'd be quite happy with the additional standover and stack
height; my current bike has around 160mm of steerer sticking up out of the
head tube, so being able to drop that by 70mm would be aesthetically
beneficial. Not to mention the extra top tube length combined with the more
slack head tube of the Appa might prevent the toe overlap And since I'm
currently running a 100mm stem, I can easily cut that back to accommodate
the additional reach.

My main concern with the 57cm Appa is the ETT length as it relates to my
knee angle / knee-ankle line. I seem to have a fairly short femur as I'm
always having to push my saddles fairly far forward to get my knee in line
with, or slightly over my ankle to avoid pain in my knees. Being that my
current bike has only about 1-2cm of additional room on the rails to slide
the seat forward, and the 57cm Appa effectively places the seat tube
another 2cm further back, I'm concerned I'm going to end up unable to
achieve the necessary knee/ankle alignment.

So, now that I have probably made myself sound sufficiently insane and
obsessive, give me some opinions. Maybe there's a 0 setback 26.8 seatpost
that could bail me out if it's a problem? Will the other differences in the
frame geometry compensate for the differences in ways I'm not considering?
Hit me with anything you think might be relevant :)

-- 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[Ted W]

It's a bit of mess right now, but here's the wiring for my GBW:

For the bottom we reemed out the hole near the drop outs ever so slightly
to let the wires fit through and water sealed it with some goop (hot glue):
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r5PvzDjBGAFrSycc7

For the top we used a downtube barrel adjuster we found with the same
thread pitch as a mounting screw and threaded the wire through it to avoid
having to negotiate the 90º bend at the top (done that on another bike and
cursed every minute of it). Once again, we sealed the hole with goop:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MH6KwkcRCUgXvinC7

Hope the additional reference material helps.

On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 3:08 PM brizbarn  wrote:

> Christian, thanks for the pics and example.  I have some of the Velo
> Lumino wire.  With a a B light, would I need to run two wires to a rear
> B light?  Or do something similar to what you show in your pics,
> grounding to the frame on both the headlight and taillight ends, and just
> running one length of wire to the rear light?   Splitting a single length
> of Velo Lumino wire into two and adding spade terminals would not work,
> right?
>
> On Monday, March 27, 2023 at 9:57:03 AM UTC-7 christian poppell wrote:
>
>> Hey Matthew,
>>
>> Smaller wire is fine. The wire that Velo Lumino sells is perfect. Any 22
>> or 24gauge multistrand wire would work but the Velo Lumino wire is flexible
>> and has very durable insulation. You could also seperate the BM dual strand
>> wire. The insulation is thicker and less durable but works fine.
>>
>> If the hole diameter is too small to pull two wires you can ground
>> through the frame. Ground one side of the dynamo to the fork eyelet
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/xBqTJ575zxQkeUC49 then ground one side of the
>> light to the mount or other hard point
>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/wPGMviZF9n5cYycn6. Run a single wire through
>> the fork and connect to the light.
>>
>> Hope that makes sense! I can draw up a diagram if thats helpful. How much
>> wire do you need? I might have some to spare if needed. Also what light and
>> dynamo are you using?
>>
>> Christian
>> Phoenix, AZ
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 9:53:38 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> In the weeks to come I’m going to be revisiting the wire-inside-the-fork
>>> trick. However, the hole is too small for the existing dynamo wires and I
>>> do not want to enlarge the hole.
>>>
>>> What would happen if I used a smaller-gauge wire inside the fork, to
>>> connect the dynamo to the headlight?
>>>
>>> Will a smaller-gauge wire be unable to handle the voltage/amperage from
>>> the dynamo? Will the headlight and taillight outputs be weaker? Or will the
>>> difference between the existing/stock wire and a smaller gauge be
>>> imperceptible?
>>>
>>> As always, your wisdom, advice, experience, and opinions are appreciated!
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 10:13:40 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> Most bikes I see with the SON dynamo have the wire wound around the
>>> right front fork blade. I want to run the wire inside the fork using the
>>> small hole near the dropout.
>>>
>>> I’ve already fished a thin wire through the fork as a leader i.e. I can
>>> attach the leader to the SON dynamo wire and pull it through the fork,
>>> unless the dynamo wire is too thick. Below are photos of the leader wire I
>>> fished through the fork.
>>>
>>> Is this possible, or is it a bad idea? Has anyone here managed to
>>> achieve this setup? If so, how did you do it, and please post photos of
>>> your internal wiring setups!
>>>
>>> --
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404-667-1561

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Re: [RBW] Re: Whoosa Getting an Appaloosa? 2023

[Ted W]

Got my 57 in purp!

On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 3:06 PM Keith Weaver  wrote:

> Looks like I got mine! All paid for, and order confirmation received. I'm
> seeing some have already sold out.
>
> On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 8:45 AM Keith Weaver 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm hoping to get one, have been planning the build for months now. I
>> have a pair of Velo Orange Crazy Bars that I bought for a 90s MTB
>> conversion. That MTB had such a short steer tube I couldn't make it work,
>> but I kept the bars. We'll see if they work for the Appaloosa. I do have a
>> pair of Albatross bars around as a backup. I bought a used pair of Vittoria
>> Terreno Dry tires (Thanks, Joe!) that are 47 mm wide as my starter pair.
>> Not sure what type of tire I'll end up with, but these look like a decent
>> compromise to start.
>>
>> It's been a lot of fun acquiring old parts, I'm going with an XTR rear
>> derailleur, Dura-ace clamp-on front, XT parallel-push V-brakes. I had Rich
>> build up a pair of wheels with a SON dynamo, also my first dynamo bike.
>>
>> I'm going for the Limeolive, can't quite get excited about the purple. I
>> really wanted mermaid, but oh well.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Keith
>>
>> On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 7:16 AM Johnny Alien 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I am shocked thats a hot color honestly. I am not a huge fan and
>>> Rivendell is set on making every bike in that color at this point. Then
>>> again I am not in the market for a new bike right now so it doesn't affect
>>> me. :)
>>>
>>> On Friday, May 26, 2023 at 10:12:49 AM UTC-4 John A. Bennett wrote:
>>>
 *I'd say if you want a purple Joe Appaloosa, pretend it's 2021. *

 On Friday, May 26, 2023 at 5:26:07 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi all — Who's getting an Appaloosa today? What color frame? Are you
> building it up or Rivendell? How are you specifying the build? What size
> tires? Which bars?
>
> I got mine built up in 2021 and had it built by Mark Abele at Riv. But
> within a year I'd replaced the bars, stem, shifters, front wheel, rear
> derailer, front derailer and maybe something else I'm forgetting! It's 
> been
> a great bike.
>
> Best of luck to everyone logging on today, I hope the sale is nice and
> relaxed rather than a frantic shootout. Back in 2021 the Platypus and
> Appaloosa frames sold out with lightning speed. It seems things have 
> calmed
> a bit based on the last several frame releases.
>
> Let us know what you're ordering.
>
 --
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>>> .
>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Whoosa Getting an Appaloosa? 2023

[Ted W]

I'll be playing the Appaloosa lotto today. Pretty sure I'll be fighting for
a purple but, honestly, I love both colors so I'll be happy with either of
them. Just not sure if I want a 54 or a 57...

On Fri, May 26, 2023 at 10:44 AM Eric Marth  wrote:

> LOL, Brendon, fourth?
>
> I knew you had two... what did I miss? Silver, orange and a third.
>
> On Friday, May 26, 2023 at 10:39:52 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>
>>
>> Would almost buy a fourth appaloosa for that purple alone.
>> *Almost.*
>>
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