Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-26 Thread Rodney_Gold

If one has a good vinyl setup, the overhead of 24/96 AD conversion is
minimal compared to the cost of the TT system and you might as well go
the high rez route. 
One of the reasons I bought a TP was for the same reasons as
Cliveb...cept he has the 100's and  I have the ATC SCM50a's. I bought my
speakers unauditioned cos they were a bargain , I paid just under 1000
quid for em.
My take on the whole DBT issue is that regardless of whether there is a
difference between stuff , if the listener beleives there is , it's a
truism for THEM.


-- 
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TP/X-cans v3/Senns 650's
TP/TACT 2.0/SCM 50a's
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-26 Thread JezA

Rodney, for sure go the high-res route. If you had an old treasured
photo, you'd still want to take a copy of it with the highest quality
optics you can, regardless of how crinkled, faded it is and how poor the
original camera was. 

I use ATC SCM100As myself by the way. I bought them with my eyes and
ears open. 

BTW,I very much doubt anyone has used a DBT to evaluate any component
of their own system. 

A DBT is one where neither the person administering the test nor the
person taking it have any idea of which component is which. Quite
difficult to arrange.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-25 Thread bigbossman

deutscherhififan;442939 Wrote: 
 This little guy connected to a decent table may be all you need:
 
 http://www.project-audio.com/main.php?prod=phonoboxusbcat=accessorieslang=en
 
 I think it works with PC only, though.

Yup, this little guy works a treat - download Audacity and you're all
go. You will be able to sample at 24/96 if you like, but I heard
virtually no audible reason to do so.
I've never tried it on my Mac, easier to use my windows laptop next to
the TT than lug the thing upstairs.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-25 Thread cliveb

JezA;443049 Wrote: 
 cliveb - did you do a DBT of your transporter or ATC100s before buying
 them? I am intrigued to know how you did it, especially in the case of
 the speakers.
No, of course I didn't. While I'm in the camp which believes that the
only way to tell if there is a *genuine* difference in sound is to do a
DBT, I'm not the type who thinks this is the only valid way to audition
equipment.

I'm beginning to get the feeling that you (JezA) are the sort who
revels in a bit of stirring things up to see what transpires. You often
lob in the odd disparaging comment without really contributing much
that's constructive.

But in case you're genuinely interested in how I went about choosing
the ATCs, here's what happened:
A friend who was in the HiFi retail business at the time had a pair of
SCM100As, and they impressed me. Having contacts like that is useful,
and he arranged for me to accompany him on a visit to the ATC factory.
While there I briefly spoke to Billy Woodman, who impressed me with his
no-nonsense engineering approach. Later in the day I auditioned active
50s and 100s (and a pair of passive 20s) at Ashley James' home (Ashley
was ATC's sales director at the time). As it happened, the 50s sounded a
little more agile and possibly more detailed than the 100s, but the
latter had this sense of weight and authority that I preferred. So
that's what I bought. All this auditioning was sighted, of course. This
was 16 years ago, and I've never regretted buying the ATCs for one
moment.

And the Transporter? I bought it because I wanted a digital preamp with
remote control and balanced outputs. It was cheap for such a device. The
only place I heard it before buying was at a HiFi show (where you can't
make any sensible conclusions about sound). I expected it to sound a
little bit better than the SB2 I had at the time, but was pleasantly
surprised at how much better it was. Sighted, of course, so I could
easily be deluding myself. That good enough for you?


-- 
cliveb

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-25 Thread Mnyb

cliveb;442973 Wrote: 
 Wow - that's some seriously trashed vinyl!
 
 If the state of an LP is that bad, I respectfully suggest that whether
 you record it at 24 or 16 bits (or even 12 bits for that matter) is kind
 of irrelevant.

Not really i can't find any measurments now, but a click is very fast
and goes on for a very short time, so it can have a high peak value
without sounding that bad.

Energy was a bad choice of word, peak value then.

As for rumble, they modified the RIAA curve for a reason(s)  nowadays
the curve always has a rumble filter of a sort, remember those days
watching the speaker cone moving in and out in visible during lp
playback ? this was usually with bass reflex speakers.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-24 Thread cliveb

Mnyb;442952 Wrote: 
 Another reason to actually record 24bit is that rumble clicks and pops
 from the vinyl can have magnitudes higher level than the music itself
 thus making digital clipping and such.
Wow - that's some seriously trashed vinyl!

If the state of an LP is that bad, I respectfully suggest that whether
you record it at 24 or 16 bits (or even 12 bits for that matter) is kind
of irrelevant.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-24 Thread Robin Bowes
JezA wrote:
 What double blind tests have you done on any component of your hi-fi
 system? How did you do them?

And what relevance is that to the issue in hand?

R.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-24 Thread cliveb

JezA;442987 Wrote: 
 If you were trying to reproduce a photograph that had originally been
 taken on a not very good camera, would you use another not very good
 camera, or would you get a better result using the best optics you can?
I'd use a camera that was good enough. To continue your analogy,
transferring vinyl LPs to digital is like making a copy of a photo in a
newspaper. A standard 35mm SLR with a decent lens is more than adequate.
Recording vinyl LPs at 24/96 is akin to using a Hasselblad medium format
- it's unnecessary and adds nothing.

JezA;442987 Wrote: 
 There are some very fine recording engineers, such as Doug Sax, who
 would disagree with you about the superiority of red book cd vs
 analogue. http://www.airshowmastering.com/newsimg/1.pdf
I never claimed redbook is superior to top-end analogue (eg. high speed
1/2 track tape). As far as I can tell from the article you reference,
that's what Doug Sax is talking about. But we're discussing transferring
vinyl LPs here, not 30ips master tapes.

Robin Bowes;442997 Wrote: 
 JezA wrote:
 
  BTW, cliveb, just as you argue that other people hear what they want
 to
  hear, perhaps it is also true that you don't hear what you don't want
 to
  hear!
 
 Absolutely, which further demonstrates the value of DBT.
I am acutely aware that my own expectations that I won't hear a
difference could be just as destructive as someone else's expectation
that they will. I've said as much on previous occasions on this forum.
That said, I like to feel that the first time I did a listening
comparison between 16/44 and 24/96 recordings of an LP I had an open
mind.

Of course, for the skeptic who isn't expecting to hear a difference, a
DBT doesn't help - their expectation of no difference will survive the
constraints of a DBT.


-- 
cliveb

Transporter - ATC SCM100A

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-24 Thread Phil Leigh

If all you are doing is straight vinyl rips with no DSP post-processing,
16/44.1 is perfectly adequate and produces results that are
indistinguishable from the the original vinyl and/or higher-res
captures. I've done over 600 rips. The quality of the vinyl, turntable,
arm, stylus, head amp and ADC are crucial. The resolution/bit-depth
isn't.

In the studio I'd use 24/96 all the time, because I'm going to be doing
some heavyweight DSP and need the wiggleroom for the maths. Without
any DSP, 16/44.1 captures all you need.

What you get off even the best vinyl is far removed from what is on the
tape masters unfortunately... that's assuming there are tape masters
:-). Pressed Vinyl just doesn't have the dynamic range, noise floor,
frequency response etc of 30ips half-inch tape.

Doing 24-bit capture of master tapes with their  96dB dynamic range
makes sense.


-- 
Phil Leigh

You want to see the signal path BEFORE it gets onto a CD/vinyl...it
ain't what you'd call minimal...
SB3 (wired) - TACT 2.2X (Linear PSU) + Good Vibrations S/W - MF
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-24 Thread JezA

cliveb - did you do a DBT of your transporter or ATC100s before buying
them? I am intrigued to know how you did it, especially in the case of
the speakers.


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread cliveb

ezkcdude;442755 Wrote: 
 I'd prefer to do 24/96.
Any particular reason why? The signal that comes off even the finest
quality LP pressed on heavyweight virgin vinyl has a dynamic range of no
more than 70dB, and that's on a good day with a following wind. That
equates to less than 12 bits of resolution. And while some LPs do
produce some kind of output above 22kHz, its almost completely noise and
distortion, so sampling rates above 44.1kHz are pointless.

There are some seemingly plausible arguments for using higher recording
resolutions:
1. If you're going to do any kind of restoration in software using DSP,
then recording at 24 bit avoids the danger of rounding errors
accumulating and infecting the low level detail. But since the surface
noise from an LP is orders of magnitude greater than even a 16 bit noise
floor, you'd have to do dozens of DSP operations before there is any
danger that these errors will be audible above the vinyl noise.
2. Some people think that declickers will have an easier time detecting
clicks if they have higher frequencies to work with (the rise times will
be sharper) and hence believe higher sample rates are worthwhile. I am
skeptical: most clicks from vinyl LPs are wideband artefacts, covering
the entire frequency spectrum. They are just as detectable whether
you're looking at 0-22kHz or 0-48kHz. Any glitches that are only present
above 22kHz won't be audible anyway, so there's no need to fix them.
(And of course by recording at 44.1, they won't even be recorded).

One may well argue that it can't hurt to record at higher resolutions -
all it does is consume a bit more disk space, which is cheap. But the
downside to working at high resolution is that there are a number of
useful software tools around which only work at 16/44. Recording at high
resolution denies you access to these tools, while not actually
increasing quality at all.

(NB. If you are in the loony camp that believes LPs really do have
better resolution than 16/44 PCM and deserve high res recording, then
I'm afraid there is probably nothing I can do to persuade you
otherwise).

ezkcdude;442755 Wrote: 
 What turntables are good?
Look for manual turntables without any automatic facilities. Belt drive
and direct drive are equally satisfactory provided you get a good one.
Good turntables are not cheap. You'll get better quality for your money
if you buy secondhand and have a specialist give it the once-over. If
you're looking for brand names of worthwhile turntables, here are a few:
Rega, Dual, Linn, Oracle, Mitchell, Thorens, plus the top-end models
from Japanese manufacturers such as Technics and Denon. There are plenty
of others.

ezkcdude;442755 Wrote: 
 Are any of the USB turntables decent?
Absolutely not. They are almost universally cheap and nasty devices
with poor quality pickup arms, questionable A/D converters and
non-adjustable recording levels.

ezkcdude;442755 Wrote: 
 I have an iMac. Anyone here have suggestions for that, too?
Sorry, I'm Windows based. From what I've heard, the built-in audio
inputs on Macs tend to be fairly decent quality, so start off recording
using those. If you feel they are not up to snuff, go for a decent
external USB audio interface from the likes of EMU and M-Audio. (Echo
Audio also do nice devices, but they are Firewire - do Macs still have
Firewire or has Mr Jobs now fully embraced the dark side?)

I've been digitising LPs since 1994, and have written up some notes
that you might find helpful: http://delback.co.uk/lp-cdr.htm


-- 
cliveb

Transporter - ATC SCM100A

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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread ezkcdude

Thanks, clive! Ton of good comments to mull over.


-- 
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and those who don't.
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread morris_minor

I certainly can't compete with cliveb's excellent help page, but here's
how I work (with a Mac).

The output from my Michell Gyro SE/Tecnoarm/G1042/Graham Slee Era V
Gold phono stage goes into a Sugden Headmaster (for headphone listening)
and then out to the amp. The pre-out from the Headmaster connects to an
M-Audio Transit USB device that I connect to a MacBook running Audacity.
I've taken to recording at 48Khz/24bit (so am only partially loony!).

Once an LP has been captured - usually as one large wave file, I
transfer this to a Mac Mini desktop running Apple's Soundtrack Pro.
Being somewhat masochistic I do all the click removal manually by
redrawing the samples - identifying visually the worst offenders. I'm
not obsessive about surface noise - though in the past I have used DCart
on a PC, with moderate success at times.

Once the waveform is cleaned up, it's a simple - though time consuming
process to cut and paste tracks to a new wave file, top and tail them
(adding a fade in/out so surface noise ramps in and out) and save them
before converting to Flac, tagging, and adding to Squeezecenter. I know
there are tools that can automate some (or maybe all) of this, but I
don't feel the need to use these . . 

Two things strike me as being really important: use the best quality
source components you can afford, and when making the initial recording
set the levels so the signal peaks just under 0db. If it's consistently
over you'll get a loudness wars type result, and if too far under
there'll be a need to normalise the waveform upwards; only do this on
waves containing the complete LP or else you'll destroy the levels
between tracks. I try not to normalise at all.

As a very rough guide, the processing takes about twice as long as
actually recording it - if there's only moderate click removal needed.

Each LP-rip is a labour of love, and visitors hearing Flac playback of
the files often don't believe they're from old-fashioned vinyl . . .


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread Stratmangler

The EMU USB devices work very well on PC. I use an EMU0202 myself - wish
I'd bought the 0404 now as it does a bit more (S/PDIF in/out).
I believe the EMU stuff will also work on Mac, but will not support
24/192.

As Clive has said, avoid USB TT's - generally they are not good, either
mechanically or electronically. The only one I've spotted anywhere that
may be any good is this one
http://www.henleydesigns.co.uk/product.asp?shop=0ProductID=443 .

Chris :)


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread Stratmangler

Stratmangler;442806 Wrote: 
 
 I believe the EMU stuff will also work on Mac, but will not support
 24/192.
 
 

I mean that it will support 24/192 on PC, but only 24/96 on Mac. Just
thought I'd clarify the point.

Chris :)


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread cliveb

morris_minor;442796 Wrote: 
 Two things strike me as being really important: use the best quality
 source components you can afford
Definitely. The best transfers start with good analogue playback. Stuff
lost at this stage can't be recovered in software.

Something else I'd add: clean the LP properly. Ideally use a vacuum
device such as a Nitty Gritty, VPI or Moth (although given their cost I
appreciate this isn't practical for many people). I'd say if you're
planning to transfer more than 100 LPs or so, a vacuum record cleaner is
a worthwhile investment. Otherwise do the best you can with brushes,
cleaning solutions, and LOTS of distilled water for rinsing.

morris_minor;442796 Wrote: 
 and when making the initial recording set the levels so the signal peaks
 just under 0db. If it's consistently over you'll get a loudness wars
 type result
It's not that it shouldn't consistently go over: you should NEVER allow
the recording level to exceed 0dB. Clipping just isn't acceptable. Don't
let it happen.


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread Pat Farrell
cliveb wrote:
 Good turntables are not cheap. You'll get better quality for your money
[other great stuff elided]

One more point, the conversion takes a long time. I used a very good 
turntable with a new cartridge (the rubber in the support mechanism 
tends to die because of ozone in the air, etc.) into pro-audio ADC. I 
was happy with the sound, but not how long it took.

After cleaning the record and needle I'd record it. If  I was lucky, 
I'd have the right gain staging and have no clipping (the only real 
reason for recording at 24bit sample width, IMHO). Then I'd have to 
listen to the recording, and split the side into tunes, name the tunes, 
and save the file down to redbook standards.

So a 45 minute LP would take about three hours. I decided that if the 
album was available in CD for under $10, it was better use of my time 
and money to just buy the CD.

Clearly for out of print stuff, and I have a fair amount of that, you 
have to do the transfer


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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread krochat

cliveb;442768 Wrote: 
 Any particular reason why? The signal that comes off even the finest
 quality LP pressed on heavyweight virgin vinyl has a dynamic range of no
 more than 70dB, and that's on a good day with a following wind. 

This statement oversimplifies the situation.

For some actual measurements, see
http://www.audioholics.com/education/audio-formats-technology/dynamic-comparison-of-lps-vs-cds-part-4/dynamic-comparison-of-lps-vs-cds-part-4-page-2

My personal tests with LP ripping and bit depth showed that the
difference between 16 and 24 bits was easily audible. (And no, my tests
weren't double blind).



Regards,
Kim


-- 
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Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] LP-Digital Conversion?

2009-07-23 Thread Mnyb

Another reason to actually record 24bit is that rumble clicks and pops
from the vinyl can have magnitudes higher level than the music itself
thus making digital clipping and such.

Once you removed this you can probably go back to 16bit.

Btw was it not so that cheap phono stages with insufficient overload
margins a slow settling times makes clicks worse ?

A vinyl, I sold all of mine :/ i would love to have one of those old
micro seiki turntables http://my-micro.de/rx1500vg.htm


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