Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for

[Paul Franklin]

Scot, this sounds like a pretty nice house.  Before purchasing an older home I 
would find out whether it is hooked up to a municipal sewer and water system.  
If not you should check into the condition of the septic system and the well 
and water pump.  I'd also want to find out about the condition and age of the 
roof and the amount of insulation in the walls and attic.  It might be a good 
idea to take a look at the electric and heating costs for the last few years.  
About 8 years ago I replaced my old single pain windows and storm windows with 
moderate priced double pain windows, and figured that I saved about 20 percent 
in heating costs.   

Good luck and I hope that this deal works out for you.

 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 7:03 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for



  Hi good people,

  Well let me tell you a little story and try not to bore you to tears or make 
this a super long message. My wife and I walk by this home and have done so for 
several years. She has always commented on how lovely the house looks and 
incredibly it went on the market about 10 days ago. Apparently the couple that 
owned it has passed on and the kids have decided to sell the property.
  So, here is a description, which will help set the tone of the question. The 
house is a custom-built Rambler, constructed in 1954, and is all brick. The 
house is not very large (according to the tax record is 1,500 square feet) and 
has a living room, dining room, kitchen, full bath, and four bedrooms; on one 
level. I neglected to bring a tape when we took a tour, but think I would if we 
take another look. There is an attic with a fixed set of stairs and it has 
flooring down and the roof is not plywood, but (I can't think of the correct 
name) some sort of planks with shingles over that. The basement is partially 
finished with solid pine paneling and interesting it has a solid block wall 
running down the middle and apparently this was common in the 50's. It has an 
oil-fired boiler that provides baseboard heat and it does have central air, but 
that was added later and the air handler is in the attic and the vents are in 
the ceiling.
  Ok, so the purpose of describing this house is I am curious what things I 
should be looking for if we seriously entertain the idea of purchasing it. I 
understand there is a breaker panel and not a fusebox. However, let me mention 
a couple other things as well. There is a separate two-car garage that does 
have a fusebox, but this is a very substantial structure that they even put in 
some ceiling fans since one of the kids used to detail cars in there. In 
addition, there are two (I know this sounds nuts) walk-in freezers. I am 
talking freezers that are stand-alone buildings. Apparently this gent used to 
cut up meat for people if they would bring him the animal. Now the freezers are 
no longer operational, but they have been used for storage and either would 
make an excellent workshop. Oh as a side note, they are tossing in two 
tractor/mowers, a big walk-behind mower, and a snow blower. SO, honestly, the 
only issues for me is little if any closet space and that apparently was common 
in the 50[s as well and I know I would have to install a dish washer and a few 
other changes. The place has all hardwood floors under carpet and I can't 
imagine it would take much to fix these up. So, of course I am researching 
whether I could purchase the place that does sit on 2.5 acres and gee I could 
sell one of them and make half my investment bak.
  So, again, what stuff should I look at that could really be an issue for a 
home of this age. Btw, I did not smell any wet oders or anything that would 
indicate leaking of the basement or house in general. 
  SOrry for going on so, but hope it planted some neat images. As one final 
side note/question, the windows are the single-pane type with storm windows. 
The agent showing the home tried to tell me these are more efficient than the 
newer double-pane windows and I think he's way-off-track on this. I remember 
these growing up and having ice on the inside. So, is it possible that these 
could really be efficient in some way? Just curious.

  Thanks



  

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.

[Paul Franklin]

Just as a point of interest, I don't think that you can cut cast iron with an 
acetylene torch.  I remember a long time ago needing to get some final drive 
gears out of a heavy casting and having to use a DC welder to cut open the cast 
iron.  I could be wrong but that's my story and I'm sticken to it.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2010 2:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.



  Dan: I thought it would be really cool to use a cutting torch too, until I 
actualy did it. I cut a gear shift handle out of an old deralict truck, and 
it's the only time I can recall actually being scared of a tool. It's loud, and 
obviously you're going to need gloves a hood and a mask, and it's really hard 
to tell where you're actually cutting. I had a sighted flunky er employee 
standing by to give directions, and I still managed to set the floor mats on 
fire. And, that much cast iron would take a mighty long time to cut anyway. I 
vote for shattering the thing. Not only willl you accomplish your aim, but it 
could be a great stress reliever. Maybe it could be a neighborhood thing, a 
case of beer or so, and invite the neighbors to come and show off how much arm 
strength and how well they can use a sledge. I'd say a sixteen pound sledge 
would be about right for this, and then too, one of them is bound to have some 
kind of vehicle to use for disposing of the debris when
  you're done.

  Bill Stephan 
  Kansas Citty MO 
  Email: wstep...@everestkc.net 
  Phone: (816)803-2469

  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi 
  Date: Tuesday, May 4, 2010 7:30 am
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
  > Max wrote with regard to the removal of my cast iron radiator: 
  > 
  > > I'm betting that you will end up cutting it into smaller pieces 
  > to get rid 
  > > of it. Maybe with a cutting torch? 
  > 
  > OOO BABY! Now that sounds like fun. 
  > 
  > -- 
  > Blue skies. 
  > Dan Rossi 
  > Carnegie Mellon University. 
  > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu 
  > Tel: (412) 268-9081 
  > 


  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.

[Paul Franklin]

Dan, most of the old cast iron radiators that I have seen, were cast in 
sections which were bolted together top and bottom with long threaded rods with 
a nut on each end.  To separate the sections and lighten the load all you have 
to do is remove or knock off the nuts and slip out the rods.  Another solution 
might be to call a scrap iron dealer who might be happy  to come to your home 
and hall away the pig for the value of the iron.  

 

Paul Franklin   

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 9:58 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.



  Betsy,

  The pig is a five foot long, thirty inch high, eight inch thick, 
  approximately 450 pound, cast iron radiator. I removed it from my 
  living room, and when faced with the prospect of trying to get it down the 
  stairs to the street, and onto a truck, I opted for the somewhat easier, 
  and much riskier plan of sliding it down the basement stairs. Here is a 
  post I wrote about it at the time.

  Well, I now have a 400+ pound, cast iron, radiator sitting in my basement. 
  My buddy Mark came over on Saturday and we pulled off the rigging job of 
  the decade. At least my rigging job of the decade.

  First, I had to empty out a cupboard in the kitchen and move the cupboard 
  out of the way.

  We ripped a 4X8 sheet of 3/4 inch plywood in half and then ripped one of 
  the halves in half to make a 24 inch wide, 12 foot long ramp. We laid that 
  down over the steps. You know, stairs are a lot steeper than you realize 
  when there is a ramp down them. We kept joking that we would make the 
  Darwin awards if saw dust caught fire and we couldn't get out of the 
  basement because of the ramp. It was quite challenging getting up and 
  down that ramp. I opted not to take Mark up on his offer of giving me 
  every dollar in his bank account if I would put on roller blades and go 
  down the ramp. He even allowed that I could put a mattress against the 
  wall opposite the bottom of the stairs.

  We screwed a 2X4 along the outer edge of the ramp to prevent the radiator 
  from skidding off the open side of the stairs.

  We screwed a 2X4 down the middle of the ramp to join the upper and lower 
  sections together.

  We wedged a 2X4 between the bottom of the ramp and the wall opposite the 
  bottom of the stairs to keep the ramp from slipping.

  We took to 2X4s 5 feet long, laid them parallel to each other and 18 
  inches apart, outer edge to outer edge. We then put 18 inch long 2X4s on 
  top of those, connecting them together. We put three screws in each 
  corner. So, the cross bars were above the floor by the thickness of a 2X4.

  We drilled two holes in each crossbar to accept the legs of the radiator.

  We brought the sled upstairs and eventually managed to manhandle the 
  radiator up onto the sled with the legs fitting nicely into the holes in 
  the crossbars. Have I mentioned that this radiator is friggin heavy? Then 
  we screwed big hooks into the sled rails and used 
  those to anchor a strap around the radiator to keep it from falling over 
  side to side.

  We then slid the sled over to the basement stairs and lined it up. I used 
  my rock climbing know-how and gear and tied a line onto the radiator. I 
  stood a 4X4 outside the kitchen window, it went from the ground up above 
  the top of the window so you could pull it and it wouldn't pull through 
  the window. I wrapped some flat webbing around the 4X4, ran two steel 
  carabiners through the webbing, and attached my belay device to the 
  carabiners. The rope went through the belay device and the carabiners. 
  We were now ready.

  We spent some time going over what we might have forgotten. There were 
  many ways this could go wrong, but at least we were pretty sure we 
  couldn't get injured. We could do a whole hell of a lot of damage to the 
  basement, but we would be well out of the way. One thing we were really 
  worried about was the radiator getting hung up on something. If it got 
  jammed on the way down, we were seriously screwed. It would be 
  extremely difficult, and not a little dangerous if we had to try and 
  manipulate the radiator while it was on the ramp. We briefly discussed 
  if it was a possibility that the 2X4 sled runners might snap as all the 
  weight of the radiator would be on a very narrow point, or line, across 
  the runners as the radiator tipped over the edge of the beginning of the 
  stairs, but we figured they were strong enough.

  Well, after running out of things to discuss, we figured it was about time 
  to go for it. I manned the belay, Mark manned the radiator, and Teresa 
  manned the camera for evidence at the coroner's inquest.

  Mark slid the sled forward to just before the center of gravity. He 
  lifted up the back end as I kept tension on the rope. With me belaying 
  the radiator, he was able to nudge 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saws

[Paul Franklin]

Good choice Bob, I've used many different mottles and brands of chainsaws over 
the last couple of decades and I think that you get the best performance and 
reliability for you're money with Stihl.  my local Stihl Dealer has just 
retired so I guess that I'll have to buy my next saw online.  I currently have 
a commercial grade Stihl with a 20 inch bar which has cut a lot of fire wood I 
don't remember the model number.  At this point I'm in the market for a smaller 
Stihl with a 16 Inch Bar for cutting up the smaller stuff around my yard. 

 

Good luck with your new saw:

 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: chiliblindman 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 2:25 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saws



  It was good to see all the chain saw stuff recently. I was trying to decide 
what to get in one. Today I will pick up a new stihl 181. It is supposed to be 
light and fast. I almost got the mod 180 but the guy said the new emission 
standards will easily be beat by the mod 181 that just came out.
  I am not sure of the exact cost yet. The mod 180 was going to cost 182 bucks 
and he said the mod 181 will be almost 50 bucks more. I'm sure with the oil and 
other stuff it will be close to 300 with tax.
  bob

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

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database 5071 (20100429) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com



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Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

[Paul Franklin]

The most interesting experience that I have had with a chain saw so far was 
when I cut through a wasp nest in the middle of a log that I was cutting up for 
fire wood.  Needless to say I dropped the saw and didn't even stop to turn it 
off before I departed the area with about a hundred pist off bees in hot 
persute.

Paul Franklin
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Sherrer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw



  The only time I got hurt with the chain saw is tripping of a log that I had 
cut. I kept the saw away from me wwhen I fell.

  John
  http://WhiteCane.org
  http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  http://anellos.ws

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jim King 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 1:12 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

  The chain should not be moving when the engine is idling. Do not try to
  touch the bar or chain when the saw is at idle. There is much more to learn
  than just how to operate the saw. I did plenty of logging in my college
  days. The first thing to remember is not to be afraid of the saw. You need
  to respect it but don't be afraid of it. More injuries and property damage
  are caused by falling trees, limbs parts of logs etc that have just been cut
  than from the saw itself.

  Jim King

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of john schwery
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:28 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

  How fast is the chain moving when a saw is idling?

  earlier, John Sherrer, wrote:
  >
  >
  >Some tips I have are:
  >1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back.
  >
  >2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the
  >chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up.
  >
  >3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You
  >do not want them to get into your way.
  >
  >4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off.
  >
  >5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to
  >cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you
  getting
  >hurt, take corrective action and continue.
  >
  >Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt.
  >
  >John
  ><http://WhiteCane.org>http://WhiteCane.org
  >http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  ><http://HolyTeaClub.comcom>http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  ><http://anellos.ws>http://anellos.ws
  >
  >- Original Message -
  >From: "Scott Howell" <<mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>s.how...@verizon.net
  <mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net> >
  >To: <<mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> >
  >Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM
  >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
  >
  > > You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way
  > > to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is
  this
  > > chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could
  > > cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what
  I
  > > hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as
  the
  > > saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However,
  > > being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback
  situations,
  > > it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the
  > > motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it
  > > best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing
  vertical?
  > > Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held
  > > perpendicular to the work?
  > > I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a
  > > problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back
  > > and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more
  than
  > > a handsaw. grin
  > >
  > > On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:
  > >
  > >> I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You
  can
  > >> use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for
  > >> your job unless you have future use.
  > >> If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this
  is
  > >> your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you
  > >> want a good one, the S

Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

[Paul Franklin]

I agree with John, Every cut is different.  You need to think ahead and plan 
every cut.  One tip that I would add would be, to always keep the chain tension 
properly adjusted on the bar. 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: John Sherrer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:58 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw



  Some tips I have are:
  1. Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back.

  2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the 
  chain saw, a kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up.

  3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you. You 
  do not want them to get into your way.

  4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off.

  5. Do not be in a hurry. Think out every little task before you start to 
  cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting 
  hurt, take corrective action and continue.

  Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt.

  John
  http://WhiteCane.org
  http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  http://anellos.ws

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Scott Howell" 
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw

  > You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way 
  > to use one. I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this 
  > chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could 
  > cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I 
  > hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the 
  > saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, 
  > being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, 
  > it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the 
  > motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it 
  > best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? 
  > Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held 
  > perpendicular to the work?
  > I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a 
  > problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back 
  > and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than 
  > a handsaw. grin
  >
  > On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:
  >
  >> I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can 
  >> use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for 
  >> your job unless you have future use.
  >> If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is 
  >> your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you 
  >> want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good.
  >>
  >> If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off 
  >> your hands.
  >>
  >> By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But 
  >> if I had a good enough reason, I would use it.
  >>
  >> John
  >> http://WhiteCane.org
  >> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
  >> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
  >> http://anellos.ws
  >>
  >> - Original Message - 
  >> From: RJ
  >> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >> Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM
  >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
  >>
  >> If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job 
  >> nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, 
  >> if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to 
  >> handle.
  >> RJ
  >> - Original Message - 
  >> From: Scott Berry
  >> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >> Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
  >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
  >>
  >> Hello there,
  >>
  >> I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
  >> diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
  >> you recommend.
  >>
  >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >>
  >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >>
  >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >>
  >>
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > 
  >
  > Send any questions regarding list management to:
  > blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  > To listen

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.

[Paul Franklin]

Jeff, that's an approach that I never considered.  I'll give it some serious 
thought and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the idea:

Paul

  - Original Message - 
  From: Geoff Eden 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 7:04 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.



  Paul, it is amazing what people can carry on their backs. I had a 
refrigerator delivered once to a second-floor apartment by one man in a truck 
who hauled it in off the truck and up switch back stairs to my apartment.

  I don't know if a hauling device is commercially available, but with a little 
effort, and perhaps some old seat belt straps you might be able to fabricate 
something to sling your air conditioners.

  Geoff

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 9:28 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.

  The discussion about the difficulty of carrying bulky objects like 4 by 8 
sheets of plywood or sheetrock reminds me of another heavy object that I have 
to wrestle with twice each year. We have 2 window air conditioners that weigh 
somewhere around 50 pounds each that are used on the second floor of our house 
in warm weather, and are stored in the garage during the winter. I personally 
find air conditioners hard to carry. They are heavy, they're bulky, they have 
an irregular shape and they are fra gile enough that they can't be banged 
around. I usually drag them from the garage to the house on a garden cart. My 
difficulty is carrying them through the house and up the stairs without 
trashing the furniture and walls along the way. I like to carry things with 1 
arm when ever possible so I have the other arm to orient myself as I move 
along. This mode of travel just doesn't work while hugging a 50 pound air 
conditioner. If anyone has any tips, tools or techniques for moving air 
conditioners, I would like to hear about them.

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

  Don't have one like that but I do have a Lee Valley carrier, it is a handle 
hinged with jaws which you open over the top edge and when you lift it grips 
the top edge making lifting and moving a lot easier.

  You probably are going to use 5/8ths or 3/4ths tongue & groove plywood for 
decking your floor?

  I have heard of carriers like a length of 'J' mold with a strap you can put 
around your shoulder but I haven't seen one.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 10:32 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

  I have heard of a device useful for helping carry large sheet goods. Kind 
  of a j hook with a handle. I have not been able to find one at a big box 
  store. anyone know what the hell I am talking about, and where to find 
  a couple?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

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The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.

[Paul Franklin]

Thanks Spiro, I agree humping a bulky air conditioner up a flight of stairs 
with out digging new wholes in the walls is no picnic.  Maybe recruiting a 
helper is the best way to go.  

Paul

  - Original Message - 
  From: Spiro 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 11:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.



  Paul, a dolly with 8 inch wheels would work better on stairs.
  but, honestly, when I used to stack 2 6000 btu units in a very narrow 
  window for my mom each year (before panasonic introduced their narrow 
  profile units) I found that there is no near alternative to a helper so 
  you can carry them together up those steps.
  I've even rolled them up steps, and it's just not worth any of it compared 
  to carrying them 2 people.

  On Sat, 20 Mar 2010, Paul Franklin wrote:

  > Hi Dave, thanks for the idea. Your two wheeled carrier sound like it might 
work for moving air conditioners. Have you tried it on stairs?
  >
  > Paul
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Dave Andrus
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 11:09 AM
  > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.
  >
  >
  >
  > Hi Paul,
  >
  > Not that I have moved window air conditioners with this but I do move other
  > items this size. It is a fold up two wheel cart. It has a tubelier shelf
  > that drops down, and then bungy cords that can wrap around the item. The
  > handle flips up and is only 3 feet tall. It has two narrow 3 inch wheels.
  >
  > This little fold up cart is great for little things. Like you, I like to
  > have one hand empty in order to feel and guide me and the object around
  > corners. Pulling with one hand the other is free to do this.
  >
  > My wife first bought it to carry boxes to and from the van to the post
  > office. I thought it a gilry two wheeler. Then I tried it and it is great
  > for those smaller heavy items.
  >
  > Dave A.
  >
  > Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
  > Jesus
  >
  > Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
  > Lutheran Blind Mission
  > 888 215 2455
  > HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG
  >
  > -----Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  > On Behalf Of Paul Franklin
  > Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 8:28 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.
  >
  > The discussion about the difficulty of carrying bulky objects like 4 by 8
  > sheets of plywood or sheetrock reminds me of another heavy object that I
  > have to wrestle with twice each year. We have 2 window air conditioners that
  > weigh somewhere around 50 pounds each that are used on the second floor of
  > our house in warm weather, and are stored in the garage during the winter. I
  > personally find air conditioners hard to carry. They are heavy, they're
  > bulky, they have an irregular shape and they are fragile enough that they
  > can't be banged around. I usually drag them from the garage to the house on
  > a garden cart. My difficulty is carrying them through the house and up the
  > stairs without trashing the furniture and walls along the way. I like to
  > carry things with 1 arm when ever possible so I have the other arm to orient
  > myself as I move along. This mode of travel just doesn't work while hugging
  > a 50 pound air conditioner. If anyone has any tips, tools or techniques for
  > moving air conditioners, I would like to hear about them.
  >
  > Paul Franklin
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Dale Leavens
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  > Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:23 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.
  >
  > Don't have one like that but I do have a Lee Valley carrier, it is a handle
  > hinged with jaws which you open over the top edge and when you lift it grips
  > the top edge making lifting and moving a lot easier.
  >
  > You probably are going to use 5/8ths or 3/4ths tongue & groove plywood for
  > decking your floor?
  >
  > I have heard of carriers like a length of 'J' mold with a strap you can put
  > around your shoulder but I haven't seen one.
  >
  > If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Dan Rossi
  > To: Blind Handyman List
  > Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 10:32 AM
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.
  >
  > I have heard of a device useful for helping carry large sheet goods. Kind of
  > a j hook with a handle. I have not been able to find one 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Dave, thanks for the idea.  Your two wheeled carrier sound like it might 
work for moving air conditioners.  Have you tried it on stairs? 

Paul 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave Andrus 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 11:09 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.



  Hi Paul,

  Not that I have moved window air conditioners with this but I do move other
  items this size. It is a fold up two wheel cart. It has a tubelier shelf
  that drops down, and then bungy cords that can wrap around the item. The
  handle flips up and is only 3 feet tall. It has two narrow 3 inch wheels. 

  This little fold up cart is great for little things. Like you, I like to
  have one hand empty in order to feel and guide me and the object around
  corners. Pulling with one hand the other is free to do this. 

  My wife first bought it to carry boxes to and from the van to the post
  office. I thought it a gilry two wheeler. Then I tried it and it is great
  for those smaller heavy items. 

  Dave A.

  Working together, sharing the light of salvation seen through the cross of
  Jesus

  Rev. Dave Andrus, Director
  Lutheran Blind Mission
  888 215 2455
  HTTP://WWW.BLINDMISSION.ORG 

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Paul Franklin
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 8:28 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.

  The discussion about the difficulty of carrying bulky objects like 4 by 8
  sheets of plywood or sheetrock reminds me of another heavy object that I
  have to wrestle with twice each year. We have 2 window air conditioners that
  weigh somewhere around 50 pounds each that are used on the second floor of
  our house in warm weather, and are stored in the garage during the winter. I
  personally find air conditioners hard to carry. They are heavy, they're
  bulky, they have an irregular shape and they are fragile enough that they
  can't be banged around. I usually drag them from the garage to the house on
  a garden cart. My difficulty is carrying them through the house and up the
  stairs without trashing the furniture and walls along the way. I like to
  carry things with 1 arm when ever possible so I have the other arm to orient
  myself as I move along. This mode of travel just doesn't work while hugging
  a 50 pound air conditioner. If anyone has any tips, tools or techniques for
  moving air conditioners, I would like to hear about them.

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message -
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

  Don't have one like that but I do have a Lee Valley carrier, it is a handle
  hinged with jaws which you open over the top edge and when you lift it grips
  the top edge making lifting and moving a lot easier.

  You probably are going to use 5/8ths or 3/4ths tongue & groove plywood for
  decking your floor?

  I have heard of carriers like a length of 'J' mold with a strap you can put
  around your shoulder but I haven't seen one.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 10:32 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

  I have heard of a device useful for helping carry large sheet goods. Kind of
  a j hook with a handle. I have not been able to find one at a big box store.
  anyone know what the hell I am talking about, and where to find a couple?

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu>
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Air conditioner carrier.

[Paul Franklin]

The discussion about the difficulty of carrying bulky objects like 4 by 8 
sheets of plywood or sheetrock reminds me of another heavy object that I have 
to wrestle with twice each year.  We have 2 window air conditioners that weigh 
somewhere around 50 pounds each that are used on the second floor of our house 
in warm weather, and are stored in the garage during the winter.  I personally 
find air conditioners hard to carry.  They are heavy, they're bulky, they have 
an irregular shape and they are fragile enough that they can't be banged 
around.  I usually drag them from the garage to the house on a garden cart.  My 
difficulty is carrying them through the house and up the stairs without 
trashing the furniture and walls along the way.  I like to carry things with 1 
arm when ever possible so I have the other arm to orient myself as I move 
along.  This mode of travel just doesn't work while hugging a 50 pound air 
conditioner.  If anyone has any tips, tools or techniques for moving air 
conditioners, I would like to hear about them.

 

Paul Franklin



  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:23 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.



  Don't have one like that but I do have a Lee Valley carrier, it is a handle 
hinged with jaws which you open over the top edge and when you lift it grips 
the top edge making lifting and moving a lot easier.

  You probably are going to use 5/8ths or 3/4ths tongue & groove plywood for 
decking your floor?

  I have heard of carriers like a length of 'J' mold with a strap you can put 
around your shoulder but I haven't seen one.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 10:32 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

  I have heard of a device useful for helping carry large sheet goods. Kind 
  of a j hook with a handle. I have not been able to find one at a big box 
  store. anyone know what the hell I am talking about, and where to find 
  a couple?

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

[Paul Franklin]

Some stoves have a draw at the bottom usually used for storage of pots and 
pans.  If you can remove this draw it can sometimes provide greater access to 
reach and clean under the stove with your hand or a brush.  

 

Good luck:

 

Paul

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:30 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.



  Can you sweep them out with a long stick or maybe a flattened cardboard tube? 
Maybe a straightened out clothes hanger with some stiff paper taped to one end?

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message - 
  From: aadorno 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 9:44 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] need help with a weerd problem.

  the other night I was making dinner and as I began to serve myself I dropped 
a few pieze in between the stove. now my question is, how can I get these pieze 
from in between the stove. do I have to move the stove witch will be a pain or 
is there an easyer way. I do not want to egnor this problem because I am afraid 
of getting mice.
  all help will be appreicated. 
  thanks, Angel.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

[Paul Franklin]

 

Dan, I could take it one step further and install a computer controlled gate.  
That way if the people heading up my driveway did not meet certain pre 
established criteria, programmed into the recognition software, they wouldn't 
be allowed in.  I guess that might help to keep the bill collectors and the 
tool borrowers out. 

 

Paul

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 10:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm



  Hey Paul,

  Why don't you also investigate some computer vision stuff with face 
  recognition. That way, not only does it let you know that someone has 
  entered your driveway, but it can tell you who it is. OOO, Col!

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Driveway Alarm

[Paul Franklin]

Dan's messages on wireless bad thing detectors have got me thinking about other 
wireless devices that can be used around the home.  One such device that I have 
considered purchasing for a while is something to alert me when someone or 
something comes up my driveway and into my yard.  Has anyone had any experience 
with any of the commercially available driveway alarms?  If so what brand or 
model do you like or dislike?  Are they fairly durable and reliable or do you 
have to throw them away after 6 months, like so many of the wireless door bells 
on today's market. 

 

Thanks for any info that you might be able to provide.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 8:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] multipurpose tool



  I own a Gerber as well. I like it very much, but I prefer a Swiss Army 
  knife for the size. Although, I stopped carrying those as well, but 
  recently picked up a UtiliKey from ThinkGeek.com it is quite literally the 
  size of any of the other keys on my key ring. It has a vitiously sharp 
  knife, bottle opener, flat head screw driver and philips screw driver. 
  Good enough for slicing open packages, and opening a beer.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Bill, I would be concerned about the build up of Carbon Monoxide in your 
below ground stair well after running a gasoline powered generator for an 
extended period.  CO is heavier than air, tends to collect in low covered areas 
and could easily penetrate through your cat door into your basement.  Why not 
set up the generator at ground level and run the power cable through a whole 
through your rim joist into your basement?

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: William Stephan 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:35 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Generator Storage Question



  So, I finally got the 10 gauge extension cord, the oil, the gas, the gas
  stabilizer etc. for my 3.5KW generator from Aldis. I tested it yesterday
  and things worked fine, it runs off an engine with a cast iron block, so
  it's not nearly as noisy as I expected.

  Our house has a set of steap concrete stairs leading from the backyard down
  to a foyer with a door into the basement. This foyer is sheltered, and
  there's actually a sort of awning or canapee that prevents water from
  running down into it. There happens to be a cat door in the connecting
  door, so my plan is to run the generator in that outdoor foyer, run the
  cables through the cat door and inhabit the basement if things get dicey. 

  So, my question is this: Can I store a generator like this over the long
  term in the kind of sheltered foyer I've described? I could conceivably,
  easily enough wheel the thing on a hand truck and keep it in the basement
  proper and move it when I need to, but I'm superstitious about having four
  or so gallons of gas stored right under the living room. Would you guys
  suggest running this every month or so?

  Thanks for any ideas on this one.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cordless Hedge Trimmer

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Dave, I've had a Black & Decker 18 Volt, double cut, cordless hedge trimmer 
for the last 2 seasons.  It's not as powerful as the gas or corded trimmers 
that I have used in the past, but it gets the job done.  It's quick and easy to 
use, without having to get out the fuel can or drag out the 100 Foot cord.  
Because its convenience to use I usually trim more frequently, and don't let 
things get too scraggily.  I am able to trim for about 30 Minutes on a charge, 
which is more than enough time when the temperature is up around 90 degrees. I 
think that I paid about $89 for the one that I have, and   I consider it to 
be worth the price.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dave Mitchell 
  To: blind handyman 
  Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 11:30 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cordless Hedge Trimmer



  Hi All, Back on the list after a long absence.

  I'm looking for a light to medium duty cordless hedge trimmer.
  Any recommendations on battery voltage and maker and model?
  I would prefer one with double cut instead of single action blades.

  Thanks very much, Mitch


  

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Auto Hammers

[Paul Franklin]

Al, I have a Craftsman Auto Hammer and in my opinion it would not be suitable 
for extended use, driving masonry nails
through a 2 by 4 and then into a concrete block wall or
poured cement floor.  If I planned to finish a basement, I would try to get my 
hands on a larger air driven or cartridge driven nailer.

Good luck with your project:
Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan & Terrie Robbins 
  To: Blindhandyman 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 12:47 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Auto Hammers



  Looking @ Ryobi and/or craftsman auto hammers. Since I've
  never seen (except on line) or used one of these , I'm
  wondering if they are capable of driving masonry nails
  through a 2 by 4 and then into a concrete block wall or
  poured cement floor?

  thanks
  Al



  

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring again

[Paul Franklin]

 

Max, the following is a copy of a post that I sent to this list a couple years 
ago.  Hope it helps.

 

The recent interest in measuring devices on this list prompts me to describe a 
couple of types of measuring gages or jigs that I built about 25 years ago, and 
that I still use to day.  The first was made with a 4 foot length of 3/16 
stainless steel rod and 2 pieces of ¾ square steel bar stock about 1 and ¼ 
long.  The idea is to permanently affix one of the pieces of bar stock 
perpendicular to one end of the rod, either by gas welding or by threading the 
end of the rod and drilling and tapping the bar stock.  The other piece of bar 
stock is drilled perpendicular to it's long axes, so it can slide smoothly 
along the rod.  A second hole is drilled in this piece of bar stock parallel to 
it's long axes, which intersects the first whole.  This second whole is tapped 
to accommodate a threaded bolt that acts as a set screw to lock the sliding 
square stock at any point along the rod.  I used a bolt with a large knurled 
head that could be easily tightened or loosened by hand for the locking bolt.  
To use this device, I align the end of the rod with the fixed block at one end 
of the measurement to be taken, and slide and tighten the movable block at the 
other end of the piece or gap to be measured.  I then can transfer this 
measurement to a board for cutting or use it to set stop blocks on a chop saw 
or set a fence on a table saw.  I have found this device to be quick to use and 
accurate enough for cabinet work.  Over the years I have built several shorter 
versions of this device for use in tight areas.

 

My second home made device has turned out to be especially handy for installing 
base boards, door trim, interior studs or wall paneling.  It is primarily made 
out of wood and it telescopes from 4 to 8 feet in length, and can be locked at 
any point between.  It is made from a 4 Foot, clear ¾ pine board about 2 Inches 
wide.  I cut a 3/8 Inch deep by ¾ Inch wide groove down the center of one of 
the 2 Inch faces of the board and ripped a 4 Foot strip of pine to slide 
smoothly in the groove.  I next cut a 4 Foot long by 2 Inch piece of ¼ plywood 
and glued and nailed it over the groove in the pine board, to make a 4 Foot box 
or sleeve for the pine strip to slide in.  I then cut a 2 by 2 Inch ¾ Inch 
thick pine block and drilled a ¼ whole in its center.  Next I temporarily 
aligned this block on the plywood side covering the groove at one end of the 
device and with the sliding strip removed, I extended the ¼ Inched Whole 
through the plywood, into the groove, but not into the pine board at the bottom 
of the groove.  Next I tightly mortised a ¼ square nut into the face of the 2 
by 2 Inch block so it lines up with a threaded bolt inserted through the whole 
in the block and is flush with one face of the block.  With a ¼ bolt threaded 
through the block and nut, and protruding about ½ inch below the nut I inserted 
the end of the locking bolt through the plywood side and into the groove below. 
  I then glued and nailed the block and locking bolt assembly to the plywood 
side covering the groove.  With the sliding pine strip inserted into the groove 
the threaded bolt on the block can be tightened to lock the strip in any 
position between 4 and 8 Feet.  To use the device I align one of its ends with 
a wall or the floor and slide out the strip to make the needed measurement.  
With the locking bolt tightened this measurement can then be transferred to a 
board or panel for accurate cutting.  I don't use this jig often, but it's nice 
to know that it is hanging on the shop wall when the need arises.

 

I think that it has taken me longer to describe this stuff than it took to 
build it.  Sorry for being so long winded.

 

Paul Franklin  

  

  - Original Message - 
  From: Agent086b 
  To: Handyman 
  Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 4:15 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Measuring again


Hi all,
  some months ago there was a lot of discussion on a measuring stick. I 
  seam to remember that you slide a stick in to a tube and lock it 
  somehow. Unfortunately I have lost the email describing how to build one 
  of these things.
  I have a talking tape measure, but I would like some sort of telescopic 
  thing I can take a measurement between two pieces and transfer that 
  measurement to a piece of timber before cutting it off to the same length.
  I don't need to know how many millimetres it is just to keep that length.
  Hope you all understand what I am trying to do.
  Max.


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Dale, I understand what you are trying to do and I'm sure that you could 
probably make it work somehow.  How are you going to get a full length peace of 
angle iron above the existing wiring and plumbing without disconnecting cables 
and water lines?  If you can work this out, maybe you could have the upper 
connections on the triangles pre welded to the top angle iron and still be able 
to work it into place.  This would minimize the number of wholes to be drilled 
at the top of the joist, however their would be a lot of angle iron left to 
drill along the bottom cord.  Drilling angle iron with a hand held drill in a 
22 Inch joist bay is not my idea of fun.  How far below the sub floor do the 
electrical cables pass through the joists?  Could you possibly bolt a full 
length of say 2 Inch, heavy gage channel iron to the top and bottom of both 
sides of each joist and connect them with bolts or threaded rod through pre 
drilled wholes.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 10:30 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?


Hi,

  I have considered these solutions, I am really trying to avoid cutting into 
all that electrical.

  I thought though that if I created my own sort of web joists in situ I might 
achieve the same thing. A series of joined triangles on the surface of the 
present joist, maybe on opposite faces of the joist then when jacked up into 
good or at least acceptable alignment then run a bolt through at the bottom so 
that when the jack is removed the joined bridge work of triangles are held 
using the original wood joist as the lower cord and I suppose the upper cord as 
well.

  The tops could be bolted through pre-drilled angle attached to the top of the 
side of the joist but one would have to drill angle iron at the bottom of the 
side I would think to keep them from sliding longitudinally.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 9:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

  Dale, it seems to me that the simplest and most cost effective way to stiffen 
up your floor would be to sister dimension 2 by 8 lumber on to the existing 
rough cut 2 by 8 joists. After jacking and leveling each joist you could glue 
and bolt the dimension 2 by 8 beams to the rough cut joist keeping the bottom 
edges parallel, thus keeping the sub floor baring on the original joist. You 
could relocate heating, plumbing and wiring to a chase along the edges of the 
usable space to preserve head room in the center of the basement. An 
alternative would be to replace the existing joists with an engineered joist 
system with an open web, however engineered joist usually are from 10 to 18 
inches deep, which would compromise your existing head room. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

  Hi,

  It is too wet outside to do any work and I am contemplating a problem I have 
had since moving into this old building.

  The original house has floor joists rough sawn but only 2 by 8 on 24 inch 
centers. We have a springy and uneven floor. Some of it is also because at some 
point one of the heating systems required framing in a big cold air return and 
they clearly didn't shore up the floor when cutting that joist, someone long 
since removed all of the cross bracing.

  I don't see sistering or adding joists in the usual way because of plumbing, 
wiring and duct work and I don't want to add more posts and beams. It recently 
struck me though that I could build in place an open web joist, jack things 
temporarily up then fix the lower cord. This lead me to think perhaps a better 
way might be to jack tings up just a little above the desired point then apply 
a web of strap steel to either face of the existing joists on the diagonal. A 
series of 'V's so that the diagonal essentially forms triangles. This would 
allow me to continue to respect wiring.

  More stiffening might be achieved by running a length of angle iron along the 
top inside corner against the floor and the joist and run a bolt through it and 
the straps and similarly at the bottom of the joist, I wonder how much would be 
enough and how much too much. At some point it might be better to fabricate 
individual steel webbed joists and fit them between the originals but then they 
may serve the purpose of lifting the originals which would continue to be 
pulling down after nearly a century.

  Just kicking around ideas. I would like to preserve as much open space there 
as I can.

  I don't have reasonable access to engineering or architectural services.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been

Re: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?

[Paul Franklin]

Dale, it seems to me that the simplest and most cost effective way to stiffen 
up your floor would be to sister dimension 2 by 8 lumber on to the existing 
rough cut 2 by 8 joists.  After jacking and leveling each joist you could glue 
and bolt the dimension 2 by 8 beams to the rough cut joist keeping the bottom 
edges parallel, thus keeping the sub floor baring on the original joist.  You 
could relocate heating, plumbing and wiring to a chase along the edges of the 
usable space to preserve head room in the center of the basement.  An 
alternative would be to replace the existing joists with an engineered joist 
system with an open web, however engineered joist usually are from 10 to 18 
inches deep, which would compromise your existing head room. 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] stiffening inadequate floor joists?


Hi,

  It is too wet outside to do any work and I am contemplating a problem I have 
had since moving into this old building.

  The original house has floor joists rough sawn but only 2 by 8 on 24 inch 
centers. We have a springy and uneven floor. Some of it is also because at some 
point one of the heating systems required framing in a big cold air return and 
they clearly didn't shore up the floor when cutting that joist, someone long 
since removed all of the cross bracing.

  I don't see sistering or adding joists in the usual way because of plumbing, 
wiring and duct work and I don't want to add more posts and beams. It recently 
struck me though that I could build in place an open web joist, jack things 
temporarily up then fix the lower cord. This lead me to think perhaps a better 
way might be to jack tings up just a little above the desired point then apply 
a web of strap steel to either face of the existing joists on the diagonal. A 
series of 'V's so that the diagonal essentially forms triangles. This would 
allow me to continue to respect wiring.

  More stiffening might be achieved by running a length of angle iron along the 
top inside corner against the floor and the joist and run a bolt through it and 
the straps and similarly at the bottom of the joist, I wonder how much would be 
enough and how much too much. At some point it might be better to fabricate 
individual steel webbed joists and fit them between the originals but then they 
may serve the purpose of lifting the originals which would continue to be 
pulling down after nearly a century.

  Just kicking around ideas. I would like to preserve as much open space there 
as I can.

  I don't have reasonable access to engineering or architectural services.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Paving project update.

[Paul Franklin]

Dale, you have every Wright to be upset with a contractor who fails to do a job 
according to your specifications.  However In this particular instance there 
are a few issues that somewhat confuse the issue.  1: the absence of a written 
contract, 2: weather your neighbor is satisfied with the job and willing to pay 
his share of the costs and 3: the fact that the use of beach sand is probably 
typical and standard procedure in this type of work, and in the absents of 
written instructions to use polymer sand, will probably be supported by the 
legal system.

 

In my opinion any attempt to remove the sand between the blocks could in fact 
destabilize the installation or might be perceived as the reason for the fail 
your of the driveway at a later date.  You might consider taking some pictures 
of the completed driveway, and depositing a portion of the payment in an 
escarole account to be paid after you see how the project holds up for the 
first year.  You can always add the polymer sand at a later date if the beach 
sand settles or washes out.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 9:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Paving project update.


Dale,

  You have every right to be pissed. The job wasn't done to your spec so 
  you are probably within your right to withhold payment until the job is 
  done to spec. Cliff can probably weigh in much more authoritatively here.

  Getting the sand out, wow, I can't imagine. The pressure washing was the 
  first thing that came to mind, but I understand your reluctance there. 
  How about shop vacking it out? You'd probably have to dump it a bunch of 
  times, and maybe do the Bob thing and put a pillow case over the filter. 
  And, it would be an extremely tedious process. Not sure how effective it 
  would be.

  Best O luck.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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  http://www.eset.com



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..

[Paul Franklin]

Rob, I think if it was me I would cross-cut those 24 inch logs into 12 or 16 
inch pieces, then make the first split in each piece with a couple of wedges 
and a sledge hammer.  Nice straight grained oak should split pretty easy, 
especially after it freezes in the winter.  After their split once you should 
be able to Easily get them up onto the log splitter by yourself. 

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 3:29 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chainsaws..


HI, What I'm wondering is can a guy cut a log the long way with a chainsaws 
with out hurting the saw or himself?? Why I'm asking this is I have a lot of 
oak logs that are about 24 inches around and up from there... So when I cut a 
16 to 18 inch off the log I can't move it myself to put in the wood splitter... 
So I was thinking that if I cut down the long way on the log then cut the 16 to 
18 inch piece it would be in two pieces then maybe I could move it...
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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database 4346 (20090818) __

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

[Paul Franklin]

Jewel, these Dingos move slow enough so that with a little practice something 
like that might work.

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jewel 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 8:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house


Lenny! On the front of the Dingo, mount a couple of transducers similar to 
  those used in the Kay Sonic Aid, or even simpler, a Laser cane and have the 
  information fed back to you!

  Jewel

  - Original Message - 
  From: "Paul Franklin" 
  To: 
  Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 3:13 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  >
  > Dale, my Son in-law has one of those walk behind Dingo Loaders that he 
  > uses in his stamped concrete business. The only close contact that I have 
  > had with this machine was when I helped him change a blown tire on it a 
  > couple of weeks ago. In addition to the loader bucket this machine came 
  > with 2 different sized post whole augers, a trenching attachment and a 
  > grader blade. He purchased it used, and I think that he paid about $5,000 
  > for this particular machine. He uses the bucket to dig out for concrete 
  > sidewalks and patios, and the post whole auger to dig wholes for concrete 
  > columns to support wooden decks. I am confident that I could operate this 
  > machine as a totally blind person however the main drawback is that I 
  > would probably be stopping and walking around to find out what was in 
  > front of me pretty regularly.
  >
  >
  >
  > Paul Franklin
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Dale Leavens
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:31 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house
  >
  >
  > I think I would like to have and operate one of those little Dingo 
  > style loaders, a walk-behind machine. One would need to take very good 
  > care not to have it tip into the digging works or otherwise drop a track 
  > or wheel over the edge of something too high to retain it's balance but 
  > under the right circumstances it could work rather well.
  >
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Paul Franklin
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:10 AM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house
  >
  > I was born with R P, so for most of my early life I was partially sighted 
  > during the day and essentially blind at night or in low light situations. 
  > While growing up in the hills of rural Connecticut, I learned to operate 
  > all types of excavating equipment, and for about 10 years I ran my own 
  > part time excavating business. I had several backhoes and front end 
  > loaders, a couple of good sized dozers and a truck and trailer to haul it 
  > all around. For the most part I depended on equipment operators to do most 
  > of the jobs and drive the truck. Occasionally if we were busy, and we had 
  > a simple job like digging a ditch or clearing a building lot, I might 
  > tackle it myself. I really enjoyed using the equipment especially the 
  > dozers, but I actually spent most of my time estimating jobs or trying to 
  > keep the equipment running. Eventually my sight deteriorated to the point 
  > that the excavating business no longer work for me, and I guess that maybe 
  > my intellectual age finally began to catch up with my chronological age so 
  > I decided that it was time to get a real job.
  >
  > As a totally blind person the only type of equipment that I think that I 
  > might still be able to operate with any degree of success would be a 
  > backhoe. If someone located the unit where the whole needed to be dug, 
  > using the sound of the engine, the sound of the bucket scraping through 
  > the soil, feeling the changes of balance of the machine and relying on 
  > many hours of experience working the controls of a backhoe, I think I 
  > could still dig a pretty good ditch.
  >
  > Paul Franklin
  >
  > - Original Message - 
  > From: Dan Rossi
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  > Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:07 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house
  >
  > On Tue, 11 Aug 2009, carl wrote:
  >
  > > has anyone had a go of an earth mover or a back ho?
  > >
  > Not yet. My father-in-law has a couple of pieces of equipment like that,
  > but I've not yet convinced him to let me take one out for a spin.
  >
  > -- 
  > Blue skies.
  > Dan Rossi
  > Carnegie Mellon University.
  > E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  > Tel: (412

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dingo loader

[Paul Franklin]

Dan, you can get the 4 wheel drive version of the Dingo with 4 pretty heavy 
duty tires or you can get it with a set of rubber tracks, which I would prefer. 
 I personally might consider running the track version up a couple of steps 
however I don't think I would try climbing a flight of 12 or 14 stairs with a 
bucket loaded with cement blocks.  I would hate to be behind an 800 or 1,000 
LB. machine loaded with a couple hundred LBS. of blocks if it lost traction or 
decided to get sideways on the stairs.

 

I think that if I had that much heavy material to move up a couple of flights 
of outside stairs, I might try a heavy duty industrial 2 wheeled hand truck 
with long handles and large inflatable tires.  You could carie 2 or 3 blocks at 
a time and you could cary sand or sement in 5 Gal. Buckets.

 

Good Luck:

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: Blind Handyman List 
  Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 11:24 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dingo loader


Paul and Cliff,

  Do you know if a Dingo loader can climb a flight of steps? I know they 
  can operate on a farily steep slope, but I am curious if they can actually 
  crawl a flight of steps. yeah, I know, wishful thinking, but it would 
  save my back, and hands, and arms, from hauling all those landscaping 
  blocks up the stairs.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

[Paul Franklin]

Dale, my Son in-law has one of those walk behind Dingo Loaders that he uses in 
his stamped concrete business.  The only close contact that I have had with 
this machine was when I helped him change a blown tire on it a couple of weeks 
ago.  In addition to the loader bucket this machine came with 2 different sized 
post whole augers, a trenching attachment and a grader blade.  He purchased it 
used, and I think that he paid about $5,000 for this particular machine.  He 
uses the bucket to dig out for concrete sidewalks and patios, and the post 
whole auger to dig wholes for concrete columns to support wooden decks.  I am 
confident that I could operate this machine as a totally blind person however 
the main drawback is that I would probably be stopping and walking around to 
find out what was in front of me pretty regularly.  

 

Paul Franklin

 

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:31 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house


I think I would like to have and operate one of those little Dingo style 
loaders, a walk-behind machine. One would need to take very good care not to 
have it tip into the digging works or otherwise drop a track or wheel over the 
edge of something too high to retain it's balance but under the right 
circumstances it could work rather well.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  I was born with R P, so for most of my early life I was partially sighted 
during the day and essentially blind at night or in low light situations. While 
growing up in the hills of rural Connecticut, I learned to operate all types of 
excavating equipment, and for about 10 years I ran my own part time excavating 
business. I had several backhoes and front end loaders, a couple of good sized 
dozers and a truck and trailer to haul it all around. For the most part I 
depended on equipment operators to do most of the jobs and drive the truck. 
Occasionally if we were busy, and we had a simple job like digging a ditch or 
clearing a building lot, I might tackle it myself. I really enjoyed using the 
equipment especially the dozers, but I actually spent most of my time 
estimating jobs or trying to keep the equipment running. Eventually my sight 
deteriorated to the point that the excavating business no longer work for me, 
and I guess that maybe my intellectual age finally began to catch up with my 
chronological age so I decided that it was time to get a real job. 

  As a totally blind person the only type of equipment that I think that I 
might still be able to operate with any degree of success would be a backhoe. 
If someone located the unit where the whole needed to be dug, using the sound 
of the engine, the sound of the bucket scraping through the soil, feeling the 
changes of balance of the machine and relying on many hours of experience 
working the controls of a backhoe, I think I could still dig a pretty good 
ditch. 

  Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

  On Tue, 11 Aug 2009, carl wrote:

  > has anyone had a go of an earth mover or a back ho?
  >
  Not yet. My father-in-law has a couple of pieces of equipment like that, 
  but I've not yet convinced him to let me take one out for a spin.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house

[Paul Franklin]

 

I was born with R P, so for most of my early life I was partially sighted 
during the day and essentially blind at night or in low light situations.  
While growing up in the hills of rural Connecticut, I learned to operate all 
types of excavating equipment, and for about 10 years I ran my own part time 
excavating business.  I had several backhoes and front end loaders, a couple of 
good sized dozers and a truck and trailer to haul it all around.  For the most 
part I depended on equipment operators to do most of the jobs and drive the 
truck.  Occasionally if we were busy, and we had a simple job like digging a 
ditch or clearing a building lot, I might tackle it myself.  I really enjoyed 
using the equipment especially the dozers, but I actually spent most of my time 
estimating jobs or trying to keep the equipment running.  Eventually my sight 
deteriorated to the point that the excavating business no longer work for me, 
and I guess that maybe my intellectual age finally began to catch up with my 
chronological age so I decided that it was time to get a real job. 

 

As a totally blind person the only type of equipment that I think that I might 
still be able to operate with any degree of success would be a backhoe.  If 
someone located the unit where the whole needed to be dug, using the sound of 
the engine, the sound of the bucket scraping through the soil, feeling the 
changes of balance of the machine and relying on many hours of experience 
working the controls of a backhoe, I think I could still dig a pretty good 
ditch.   

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 3:07 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wilst we are talkking about building a house


On Tue, 11 Aug 2009, carl wrote:

  > has anyone had a go of an earth mover or a back ho?
  >
  Not yet. My father-in-law has a couple of pieces of equipment like that, 
  but I've not yet convinced him to let me take one out for a spin.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Patio project update.

[Paul Franklin]

 

Archie, when we were heating with wood a few years ago, I found that a two 
wheeled garden cart worked well to transport fire wood over rough ground.  This 
cart had two 20 or 24 inch bicycle wheels with inflatable tires and a bar type 
handle at the front.  It was easy to maneuver and I could hall large loads of 
wood without much effort.  The one that we had was made by Gardenway and I seem 
to remember that we purchased it from an Ag-way store.

 

For hauling dirt and rocks around the yard, on the rare occasion that I can't 
find a grandchild to operate the bucket loader, I use a four wheeled cart that 
looks like a child's wagon on steroids.  This four wheeled cart is made by John 
deer and came from Home Depot.  It resembles a large fiberglass bathtub, on 
four wheels with inflatable tires, and a handle like a child's wagon at the 
front.  This cart can be dumped by raising one end of the bathtub.  Depending 
on what your hauling it can be pretty heavy if you fill it too full.  I seems 
to get the job done quite a bit faster if I happen to be moving material down 
hill.

 

Paul Franklin

   

  - Original Message - 
  From: eastwinddancer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 11:47 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Re: Patio project update.


Hi All,

  For skinned shins, my wife got me a pair of plastic shin guards with an 
elastic sleeve that I just pull on. I think they are a pain but, they save a 
lot of skin.
  Dale, how well do the caster wheels work on rough uneven ground. Also how 
high is the handle, I'm 6'4" do you think I would be able to stand up straight 
while pushing the wheelbarrow. 
  John is the two wheeled a lot easier two use then the single, I'm doing fire 
wood for this winter, and need a wheelbarrow that is more stable, because 
moving the wood about 1000 feet over uneven ground with lots of small rocks.
  If you have any thoughts, I like to here them.
  Thanks!
  Archie 

  --- In blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com, john schwery  wrote:
  >
  > We have a 2 wheel barrow that we like. I believe it is 6 or 8 cubic 
  > feet and we got it at Lowes.




  


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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

[Paul Franklin]

Larry thanks for reminding me about replacing the clamps and saving me from 
making a second trip to my friendly auto parts store.  What do you recommend 
for a good fuel system cleaner / additive?

 

Paul

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 10:32 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck


  Don't forget all new clamps and a new fuel filter. Using those old clamps
  are a guaranteed built in fuel leek.
  You might also want to consider a good fuel additive to help out that old
  carb and fuel pump.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Paul Franklin
  Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 8:04 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

  Thanks for all of your suggestions on detaching an old and dried out fuel
  line from other fuel system components. Unfortunately all of you who told
  me to replace the old hose were right. When I sliced through a short
  section of the fuel line I found the hose full of sludge which I definitely
  don't want to push into the carburetor. Now I have to find a ride to the
  friendly auto parts store to buy about 8 feet of fuel line.

  Thanks again for your help:

  Paul

  - Original Message - 
  From: Arthur Rizzino 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

  Hi Paul
  I have two different tools called hose hooks that I use for loosening
  hoses. It is similar to a screwdriver but the shank has a bend or bends in
  it and a point on the end. One slowly works the point under the hose then
  work it around under the hose. You need to be careful not to poke the point
  through the hose.
  My particular hose hooks are from snap-on but other tool companies sell
  them too.
  If these hoses are old it might not be worth attempting to save them.
  Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 10:40 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

  Does anyone have any tips for detaching a flexible fuel line which is
  stuck 
  on to a fuel filter? I am trying to start an old tractor which has been 
  parked out in the weeds for the last couple of years. Either the fuel 
  filter is clogged or I will need to replace the fuel pump. In any case I 
  will need to slip the fuel line off of several fuel system components. 
  After slipping back the clamps I have tried pulling and twisting the fuel 
  line without any success. I would like to break the connection without 
  having to replace the fuel line. Any ideas or tips will be appreciated.

  Paul Franklin

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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  age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  Or
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

[Paul Franklin]

Thanks for all of your suggestions on detaching an old and dried out fuel line 
from other fuel system components.  Unfortunately all of you who told me to 
replace the old hose were right.  When I sliced through a short section of the 
fuel line I found the hose full of sludge which I definitely don't want to push 
into the carburetor. Now I have to find a ride to the friendly auto parts store 
to buy about 8 feet of fuel line.

 

Thanks again for your help:

 

Paul

  

  - Original Message - 
  From: Arthur Rizzino 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 9:17 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck


  Hi Paul
  I have two different tools called hose hooks that I use for loosening hoses. 
It is similar to a screwdriver but the shank has a bend or bends in it and a 
point on the end. One slowly works the point under the hose then work it around 
under the hose. You need to be careful not to poke the point through the hose.
  My particular hose hooks are from snap-on but other tool companies sell them 
too.
  If these hoses are old it might not be worth attempting to save them.
  Art
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@ yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2008 10:40 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

  Does anyone have any tips for detaching a flexible fuel line which is stuck 
  on to a fuel filter? I am trying to start an old tractor which has been 
  parked out in the weeds for the last couple of years. Either the fuel 
  filter is clogged or I will need to replace the fuel pump. In any case I 
  will need to slip the fuel line off of several fuel system components. 
  After slipping back the clamps I have tried pulling and twisting the fuel 
  line without any success. I would like to break the connection without 
  having to replace the fuel line. Any ideas or tips will be appreciated.

  Paul Franklin

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Fuel Line Stuck

[Paul Franklin]

Does anyone have any tips for detaching a flexible fuel line which is stuck 
on to a fuel filter?  I am trying to start an old tractor which has been 
parked out in the weeds for the last couple of years.  Either the fuel 
filter is clogged or I will need to replace the fuel pump. In any case I 
will need to slip the fuel line off of several fuel system components. 
After slipping back the clamps I have tried pulling and twisting the fuel 
line without any success. I would like to break the connection without 
having to replace the fuel line.  Any ideas or tips will be appreciated.



Paul Franklin

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a circular hole

[Paul Franklin]

 

Somewhere in the distant past, probably at Sears, I bought a nest of deep whole 
saws for about $12.00.  They would Easley cut a whole through 2 inch stock.  
They were definitely not of top quality and because of their extra depth they 
got out of round easily. They got a lot of use and didn't last all that long.  
They were a handy tool to have in my shop and I have looked for another set 
with out success, for the last couple of years.

 

Paul Franklin

  

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 11:00 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a circular hole


  A fly cutter is a drill bit set into a thicker mandrill which is to be 
mounted into the chuck of a drill press. There is a bar which runs through a 
square hole in that mandrill laterally which can be slid further out from the 
shaft and tightened into place with a set screw. This lateral bar has another 
rectangular bar extending down with a beveled sort of sharpened chisel tip 
which revolves around the bit center as they both turn and which describes a 
circle the radius of the amount of the lateral beam protruding from the 
mandrill.This sharp chisel then is spinning at the radius from the center which 
has been selected by the user and of course the entire thing is necessarily 
unbalanced.

  In a drill press it does at least maintain it's position relative to the work 
being cut, on the end of a hand held drill though, just the off-center 
vibration makes it near impossible to keep steady. Once it begins biting into 
wood, and remembering at two points in the rotation it is cutting cross grain 
while at two other points it is cutting with the grain, the rotation torque is 
constantly variable. As hard and strong as the steel is, the possibility of any 
number of things failing is very high.

  Because of the design too, the depth of the fly cutter is only about an inch. 
They do come in different sizes, the one I have probably cuts up to about 4 and 
a half maybe 5 inches.

  My experience is that regardless of how much care I use one or other of the 
set screws fails during the process and usually it is the radius which begins 
expanding. I had such a problem when cutting to form a nice arch shaped cutout 
on the fence I made for my router table. My idea was to cut the hole just 
centered a little below the radius of the hole then with the table saw cut away 
the edges to form what would look like a very steady handed ban saw operator 
had formed a fine archway for the dust collection.

  From one side it turned out like that, the other side ended up having a 
quarter inch deep curved line about 3/8ths outside the circumference of the 
arc. I hid this from view by making that the back side of the fence and 
covering it with the construction into which the dust collection hose gets 
fitted.I then ordered two sets of what should be good quality hole saws.

  - Original Message - 
  From: John Schwery 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 9:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a circular hole

  What is a fly cutter and what sizes of holes do they cut?

  earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:

  >Fly cutters in anything other than a drill press which keeps it 
  >running true are prone to breaking apart or having bits fly off if 
  >they aren't kept running absolutely true. You are warned never to 
  >use them outside of a drill press.
  >
  >A broken wrist is only one of a number of serious injuries one can sustain.
  >
  >- Original Message -
  >From: <mailto:spiro%40netaxs.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  >Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 12:49 AM
  >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting a circular hole
  >
  >spade bits and fly cutters, (hole cutter for drill press here) are
  >similarly difficult to 360 center and can wrench a wrist if they hit a
  >knot in the wood.
  >
  >On Fri, 23 May 2008, Dale Leavens wrote:
  >
  > > You should never use a hole cutter in anything other than a drill 
  > press for reasons of safety however you can safely use a hole saw. 
  > These come in a number of sizes, I think my largest is 4 and a half 
  > inches. These can be used in a hand power drill. There is a central 
  > twist bit which is longer than the peripheral ring with saw teeth. 
  > The twist bit guides the rotating saw into and on through the wood.
  > >
  > > I suggest that once the bit comes out the far side and before the 
  > rotating saw part cuts through that you remove the hole saw and 
  > complete the cut from the other side to keep it from tearing the 
  > wood as it exits.
  > >
  > > You can buy individual hole saws or a set. If not readily 
  > available where you live I bought my sets

Re: [BlindHandyMan] lathe

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Tom, quite a few years ago I was going through a box of hand tools that a 
neighbor was cleaning out of his basement.  I was lucky enough to find a center 
punch with a 1 quarter inch shank and a point ground at a steep angle.  It 
turned out to be the perfect tool for marking a center point through a disk cut 
with a whole saw.  If you can't find a punch with a 1 quarter inch shank you 
might try rapping a few layers of tape around a punch with a smaller diameter, 
or even try marking the center using an old quarter inch drill.

 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Fowle 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 1:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lathe


  Paul,
  Now that's a darned clever idea! The whole saws I've
  seen have a 1/4Th inch center bit which makes for a bit of a large
  hole for punching through, but a bit of care should get you pretty close.
  Thanks, i'll remember this if I ever get my small lathe set up.

  Tom



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] lathe

[Paul Franklin]

One method that works well for me, to center stock of any shape, for turning 
on a lathe is to use my whole saw set to cut a graduated set of disks of 
different diameters.  I then pick the disk that most closely matches the end 
dimension of the stock that I am planning to turn, then center it on the end 
of the work piece by feel and mark the center point on both ends of the work 
piece with a punch inserted through the whole in the center of the disk.  I 
then line up the live center and dead center of the lathe with the punch 
marks in the ends of the work piece and start turning.



Paul Franklin


- Original Message - 
From: "David W Wood" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 2:37 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] lathe


> Michael - extraordinary as I was given a similar one a short while ago -
> still also finding out information!
>
> David
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Michael Baldwin
> Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 3:36 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lathe
>
> hi,
> I am getting a lathe gave to me.  Not sure the make/model, but it has a 3
> foot long bed, and knowing my grandpa it was the best money could buy 
> 50-60
> years ago.
> Any tips for a blind person using a lathe?
> i used one in wood shop in school, but the teacher did the rounding and 
> the
> shaping, I just got to sand...
> Thanks,
> Michael
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_p
> age&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list
> just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.2/1353 - Release Date: 
> 31/03/2008
> 18:21
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.2/1353 - Release Date: 
> 31/03/2008
> 18:21
>
>
>
> 
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
> Or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
>
> Visit the archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>
> If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following 
> address for more information:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
>
>
>
> 




To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
for more information:
http://www.jaws-users.com/
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Lin

Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

[Paul Franklin]

The 2 cycle engine on a string trimmer will run just fine with the shaft 
disconnected.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 7:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters


  I've never tried to run one without the shaft and cable connected but I would 
imagine you could. It is more like a chain saw with a centrifugal clutch than a 
lawn mower engine. They idle, or are supposed to idle without the string 
turning. 

  One thing to keep in mind if you decide to try it. The engine will scream in 
a hurry if you get it running. There won't be the normal drag created from 
powering the cable and cutting head. Give it a try and see what happens.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, March 31, 2008 2:22 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] weed eaters

  HI, I have a old weed eater that some one gave me not sure what kind it is 
but it's a cheep one. What I would like to find out is the flywheel on a weed 
eater heavy enough to run the motor with out the shaft on it?? Like most 
smaller lawn mowers have to have the blade on it to run does a weed eater have 
to have the shaft with the string on it??
  THANKS ROB FROM MINNESOTA

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] ERROR: Tape is not in.

[Paul Franklin]

Dale, unfortunately the error message "tape is not in" seems to have been the 
last words spoken by a good many Cobolt Talking Tape Measures in recent years. 
The problem apparently occurs frequently enough so that you would think that 
Cobolt would either correct the defect or take the unit off the market.  If my 
tape failed less than a year after its purchase, I would not hesitate to send 
it back across the pond to be repaired or replaced at Cobolts expense.  I found 
my first Cobolt tape to be accurate and reliable for about 8 years, in spite of 
a great deal of use and abuse.  The only reason that I didn't send it back to 
be repaired is that I felt that it had far exceeded its life expectancy.  Maybe 
the older models were better.  You have to wonder if Cobolt has cut a few 
corners in the design or production of its newer tapes.    

 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] ERROR: Tape is not in.


  Thanks Paul,

  Is this a common sign that the unit is dead? Seems to me I hear many stories 
of this device dying but I don't remember hearing of the circumstances 
surrounding their death. I suppose that is part of their price.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 11:18 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] ERROR: Tape is not in.

  Dale, I had the same problem with a talking tape measure about a year ago. 
After trying all of the obvious fixes, I contacted the manufacture Cobolt 
Systems Ltd in England. They said that if I returned the broken unit to them, 
that they would fix or replace it at no charge. My tape was over 8 years old 
and had survived a hard life being banged around in my tool box at work. I 
decided since I was in the middle of a home renovation project and was using 
the tape every day, that I would be better off just buying a new unit. I have 
included the contact info for Cobolt Systems Ltd below incase you decide to fix 
your tape measure.

  Good Luck: 

  Paul Franklin 

  Cobolt Systems Ltd

  The Old Mill House, Mill Road, Reedham,

  Norwich, Norfolk NR13 3TL

  U.K.

  Tel: 01493-700172

  Fax: 01493-701037

  Email:

  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  Web Site: cobolt.co.uk

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:06 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ERROR: Tape is not in.

  Sound familiar?

  My daughter bought me one of those talking tape measures last birthday and 
now this is all it says. I haven't actually used it a lot.

  One has to wonder what sort of user testing they put this expensive toy up to.

  It did it about twice a week ago but now that is all it will say.

  I have changed the battery but same thing.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] ERROR: Tape is not in.

[Paul Franklin]

Dale, I had the same problem with a talking tape measure about a year ago.  
After trying all of the obvious fixes, I contacted the manufacture Cobolt 
Systems Ltd in England.  They said that if I returned the broken unit to them, 
that they would fix or replace it at no charge.  My tape was over 8 years old 
and had survived a hard life being banged around in my tool box at work.  I 
decided since I was in the middle of a home renovation project and was using 
the tape every day, that I would be better off just buying a new unit.  I have 
included the contact info for Cobolt Systems Ltd below incase you decide to fix 
your tape measure.

 

Good Luck: 

 

Paul Franklin 



Cobolt Systems Ltd

The Old Mill House, Mill Road, Reedham,

Norwich, Norfolk NR13 3TL

U.K.

 

 

Tel: 01493-700172

Fax: 01493-701037

Email:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Web Site: cobolt.co.uk

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 12:06 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] ERROR: Tape is not in.


  Sound familiar?

  My daughter bought me one of those talking tape measures last birthday and 
now this is all it says. I haven't actually used it a lot.

  One has to wonder what sort of user testing they put this expensive toy up to.

  It did it about twice a week ago but now that is all it will say.

  I have changed the battery but same thing.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Ice Cubes the Hard Way

[Paul Franklin]

Dale, I can't imagine even getting my big toe wet at 35 below, say nothing 
of choosing to swim through the ice in February.  We used to cut a whole in 
the lake ice for our local polar bear club so they could go for a swim on 
New Years Morning.  The temperature was usually somewhere between 10 and 20 
above and no matter how good the New Years Eve celebration might have been, 
I always considered that to be a pretty drastic cure for a hang over.



The maximum thickness of ice that we could cut with our equipment was about 
18 Inches.  We preferred to handle ice about 8 or 10 inches thick.  On the 
rare occasions that ice on the lakes got thicker than we could handle, we 
would let the water in previously cut areas refreeze until the ice reached 
the desired thickness, and then re cut the same area.  Early in the season 
when the ice got to be about 4 inches thick we would cut large blocks and 
slide them under adjacent un cut sections of ice and let the two layers 
freeze together.  The next morning we could cut 8 inch ice. That was only 
the first of the many steps required to get ice cubes for our summer time 
lemonade back in the 40s.



Paul Franklin

[BlindHandyMan] Ice Cubes the hard way

[Paul Franklin]

Dale's recent post about ice cutting chainsaws brings back memories about 
how my family harvested ice during the 1940s and 50s.



My family was in the retail and wholesale ice business in North Eastern CT. 
from about 1910 until the early 1950s.  They cut 300 lbs blocs of ice off of 
the local lakes and ponds and stored them in ice houses to be sold during 
warm whether.  From about 1940 they used power saws to cut ice off the 
lakes.  They dragged these specially made gasoline powered circular saws out 
on to the frozen lakes to cut the ice into blocks, which they then floated 
to an inclined conveyer called an Ice Run, which pulled the blocks of ice 
into the top of the ice houses on the lake shore for storage.  These power 
ice saws had a two cylinder engine on a set of skids with a handle like a 
baby carriage at one end and a long arm with a 36 inch diameter, chain 
driven  circular saw blade at the other end.  Two men would pull these saws 
handle end first across the surface of the ice in a grid pattern, cutting 
the ice to a depth  one inch less than its thickness.  The cuts were 
then finished with hand saws that had a 5 foot blade with a tee shaped 
handle at the top.  The blocks were then guided along a channel with long 
handled ice pikes to the shore and stored in the ice house, or fished out of 
the water and loaded on to trucks to be stored else where.



Paul Franklin

Re: [BlindHandyMan] cost of running a generator-Cy

[Paul Franklin]

We have a 6.5 K W gasoline powered, portable 2 cylinder, water cooled Honda 
generator, which pretty much runs everything electrical in the house except the 
220 V clothe dryer. This unit burns just under 1 gallon of gass per hour.  We 
usually try to run the generator 1 out of every 2 hours, so we use about 11 
gallons in a 24 hour period.  Even at to days gasoline prices, paying $35.00 a 
day makes better scents than letting the food in the freezer spoil or letting 
the pipes freeze in cold weather.  .  

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lee A. Stone 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 9:59 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] cost of running a generator-Cy




  I believe the numbers someone gave you are a bit high Cy. However I 
  suppose if someone is running a really really big machine which will 
  take care of electric heat that could be more expensive. However to run 
  a moble home. no way.. Unless we are running our sumps we rarely leave 
  the generator running for more than three hours at a time. the last 
  time we ran any generator for more than that was in October of 87 when 
  we pumped water rfor almost 32 hours. we only stopped then to refuel 
  and to change the oil once. That year we had borrowed the generator 
  from a friend and it was an old military generator with two handles , 
  as in for a two man operation.. One problem with owning a generator is 
  liking owning a pickup truck. someone wants to borrow it and return it 
  with an empty fuel tank . speaking of generators, this morning after the 
  turkey entered the oven no more than 5 minutes we lost power but before 
  I had a chance to get dressed. walllaa the power is back on. Merry 
  Christmas all.Lee

  -- 
  Just close your eyes, tap your heels together three times, and think to
  yourself, `There's no place like home.'
  -- Glynda the Good


   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [BlindHandyMan] What is the Difference Between a Two Stroke and Four Stroke Engine?

[Paul Franklin]

I seem to remember a few more automotive and industrial/agricultural 
applications for 2 stroke engines from Back in the late 50s and early 60s.  
Saab used a 3 cylinder, 2 stroke gasoline powered smoker in its cars made in 
the late 50s.  G M C made a very nice 3 cylinder 2 stroke diesel engine that 
was an available option for their semi tractors and dump trucks.  I had one of 
these engines in a John deere track loader made just before John Deere switched 
to their own 4 cylinder 4 stroke diesel.  I think Alice chalmers also used a 3 
cylinders 2 stroke diesel in their medium sized dozers and track loaders.

 

Probably none of these engines would pass to day's clean air requirements.

 

Paul Franklin 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Michael Baldwin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 7:38 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] What is the Difference Between a Two Stroke and 
Four Stroke Engine?


  haven't heard of such, but it wouldn't surprise me. Detroits don't get put
  in anything but Freightliners now, Detroit is owned by Freightliner, who is
  owned by Daimler Chrysler.
  Michael


  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of robert moore
  Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 23:58
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] What is the Difference Between a Two Stroke and
  Four Stroke Engine?

  Ray Great post.
  The article said that you will never see a 2 stroke in a car. While that may
  be true there is at least one automotive acception to this. I will accept
  some clarification from any diesel man on the list. There is a diesel engine
  out there that is a 2 stroke engine that is used in semmy trucks.
  As I recall I think it is the Detroit motor and I am not sure but I seem to
  recall that it may be used in some of the Peter built trucks.
  That engine is killer in a truck pull.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandyman@
  <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]On
  Behalf Of Ray Boyce
  Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 7:54 PM
  To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] What is the Difference Between a Two Stroke and
  Four Stroke Engine?

  To understand the mechanical differences between a two stroke and four
  stroke engine, lets first consider how the four stroke engine works. The
  four strokes
  are:

  Intake: The piston travels down the cylinder while the intake
  valve
  is opened to allow a mixture of fuel and air to enter the combustion
  chamber.

  Compression: The intake valve is closed and the piston travels back up the
  cylinder thereby compressing the gasses.

  Combustion: The
  spark plug
  ignites the compressed gas causing it to explode, which forces the piston
  down.

  Exhaust: The piston rises up the cylinder as the exhaust valve is opened,
  allowing the piston to clear the chamber to start the process over.

  Each time the piston rises and falls it turns the crankshaft that is
  responsible for turning the wheels. This is how fuel is converted into
  forward motion.

  Of note here is that the spark plug only fires once every other revolution.
  Also, there is a sophisticated set of mechanisms working in synchronization
  to create the four strokes. A camshaft must alternately tip a rocker arm
  attached either to the intake or exhaust valve. The rocker arm returns to
  its
  closed position via a spring. The valves must be seated properly in the
  cylinder head to avoid compression leaks. In other words, a symphony of
  mechanical
  events occurs.

  In the two stroke engine, all four events are integrated into one simple
  downward stroke, and one upward stroke. Two strokes. Intake and exhaust are
  both
  integrated into the compression and combustion movement of the piston,
  eliminating the need for valves. This is accomplished by an inlet and
  exhaust port
  in the wall of the combustion chamber itself. As the piston travels downward
  from combustion, the exhaust port is exposed allowing the spent gasses to
  rush out of the chamber. The downward stroke also creates suction that draws
  in new air/fuel through an inlet located lower in the chamber. As the piston
  rises again, it blocks off the inlet and port, compressing the gasses at the
  top of the chamber. The spark plug fires and the process starts over.
  Significantly,
  the engine fires on every revolution, giving the two stroke its power
  advantage.

  However, at the lowest point of travel of the piston when the chamber is
  filling with fuel/air, the exhaust port exposed above allows some
  fuel/gasses to
  escape the chamber. This is easily seen with an outboard motorboat, evident
  by the multicolored
  oil slick
  surrounding the engine, but it happens with all t

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Installing vinyl in my bathroom

[Paul Franklin]

Larry, a few years ago I had to rip up our bathroom floor in a hurry to repair 
a broken pipe.  After I got the sub floor back in place we needed to replace 
the finished floor as quickly as possible.  We went out to the local home 
center and got some 12 x 12, peal and stick vinyl tiles.  I was pleasantly 
surprised at how easy and quick it was to put down a good looking floor.  The 
tiles can be cut to fit with heavy duty shears or a razor knife, then just 
remove the paper covering the adhesive on the back and stick the tile to the 
sub floor.  This floor lasted about 12 years in a high traffic bathroom with no 
problems.  A job that I thought would be a horror show, turned out to be kind 
of fun and a blind friendly project.   

 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Stansifer 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 4:50 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Installing vinyl in my bathroom


  Hi folks,

  I have a small guest bathroom that is in need of a floor
  make-over. I really don't want to put the money into ceramic
  tile or that wazoo composite wood stuff. This means that
  good old sheet vinyl is at the top of the list.
  Is something like this feasible for a blind guy to do? What
  do I need to be aware of? and what part of the job can
  genuinely bite me in the ass?

  Regards

  Larry Stansifer

  Keep your friends close and your enemies closer.

  Sun Tzu.


  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

[Paul Franklin]

Keep up the good work Dale.  I for one find your long and descriptive 
responses to be very helpful.

Paul Franklin
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dale Leavens 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 10:45 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.


  Thanks Larry,

  I only hope I didn't leave anything significant out.

  I was surprised to read in one of the magazines you sent along a use of the 
  biscuit joiner to cut grooves by sliding the unit along while running. It 
  never crossed my mind to do so but it is a quick and should be accurate way 
  of cutting for splines and probably even the grooves to receive drawer 
  bottoms and other applications.

  Mine is a porter cable which I have had for four or five years now, it 
  includes a small cutter for #0 biscuits which I have used for mitering 
  frames corners. It means changing the cutter blade but pretty cool.

  I read another article or rather you did but the builder used it to assemble 
  drawer boxes. quick and strong if not classic joinery. For a lot of 
  applications though this is exactly the answer, strong, accurate and fast.

  Any time that list members feel I may be over stepping they should feel free 
  to say so. I often put quite a bit of effort into writing what I think is a 
  clear explanation or description of things I have done or have observed and 
  I do so because I am grateful for others who have taken the trouble to 
  inform me. It is difficult for most of us blind people to learn from 
  observation and sometimes it is just a very simple concept or understanding 
  which, if missed can become a block to building more learning or 
  understanding. This is not unique to the blind but we have fewer 
  opportunities. I just hope to speed the process for others as others have 
  for me.

  Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Skype DaleLeavens
  Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.

  - Original Message - 
  From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yankee workshop and questions.

  > Dale, that was a thorough and well written response on biscuit joiners.
  >
  > --
  > Larry Martin
  > Woodworking for the Blind
  > --joining the world of blind wood workers
  >
  > -- Original message --
  > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  >> Max, it wasn't a router he was using although there are router bits for
  >> cutting biscuit slots, he was using a specific tool called a biscuit 
  >> joiner
  >> or also called a plate joiner.
  >>
  >> You purchase the biscuits which are actually elongated ovals made of dry 
  >> and
  >> compressed beach wood. They swell when glue is applied. They come in 
  >> about
  >> four sizes.
  >>
  >> The biscuit does fit or should fit pretty well half way into the slot on 
  >> one
  >> side how ever it might have looked to you. As for strength, dowels and
  >> biscuits are not primarily for strengthening although they do that. The
  >> primary function is to align the joint in most applications. Dowels 
  >> suffer
  >> from the direction of the grain which is usually across the grain of the
  >> mating surfaces and glue more firmly attaches in the long direction of 
  >> the
  >> grain. The other main disadvantage of dowels is that accuracy is 
  >> absolutely
  >> critical, not only must the holes align absolutely directly but they must 
  >> be
  >> absolutely in line. Biscuit joinery allows for a little error.
  >>
  >> The plate joiner has a carbide tipped blade which is on a spring loaded
  >> travel. There is a fence, these vary from machine to machine but you can 
  >> set
  >> the fence a particular distance from the slot through which the blade 
  >> will
  >> protrude and will be parallel to the slot. Most will allow the fence to 
  >> be
  >> tilted in both directions to allow you to cut slots in mitered assemblies
  >> and other angled fixation of differing angles. You can index off the 
  >> fence
  >> or index off the bottom flat surface of the joiner.
  >>
  >> You then set the fence on the face of a board and bring the face with the
  >> slot tight against the edge of the board holding it there using a handle
  >> built for that purpose then turn on the machine and using the other hand 
  >> you
  >> force the cutter through the slot and into the edge against the springs
  >> which plunges the blade into the edge of the board. Release so it runs 
  >> back
  >> out with the spring assist then release the trigger so it shut

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

[Paul Franklin]

Robert, Could the whining noise in your truck be caused by a warn or dirty 
speedometer cable?

Paul
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 7:45 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck


  Does not seem to change with road speed.
  Also it did not do this today it sat in a warm shop for about 2 hours before
  we took it out and ran around all day. I think it must only do this when it
  gets really cold. It has been sub 0 hear for the last week or 2. I had it
  in the shop for my mechanic to find out why it is showing that it is running
  at over 260 degrees and while he had it in I had him check the tranny and
  the diff and they were both OK. Tranny fluid is a bit dirty and needs to be
  changed but it was full.
  Now for the over heating. His scan tool showed it running at 185, just where
  it should be. We changed the temp sencer and the lead wire going to the
  sencer. The gage is active but not reading accurate. I think we need to run
  a whire direct from the sencer to the gage. Any other sugjestions?

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Max Robinson
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:36 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  This sounds like car talk. Does the pitch of the whine change as the speed
  of the truck changes?

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
  
  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net 
  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com 

  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  

  - Original Message -
  From: "Robert J. Moore" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   >
  To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  >
  Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:39 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck

  >I an not sure of the speed but I think this happens during exeloration
  > around 20 to 50 MPH.
  > It does not do this in park. As I said it is not coming from the engine
  > compartment. I can tell you for sure that it is some where between the fly
  > wheel and the back tires.
  >
  > -Original Message-
  > From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  
  > [mailto: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   ]On
  > Behalf Of NLG
  > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 1:30 PM
  > To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
  >
  > Is this whine present when the truck is in park (assuming it is an
  > automatic
  > transmission) and the engine is started? Or do you only hear the noise
  > when
  > traveling? When traveling and the excellerator is pressed down, do you
  > hear
  > the noise? Does the noise quit when the truck is coasting?
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Robert J. Moore
  > To: Blind Handyman
  > Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 12:17
  > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Whiny truck
  >
  > My little S10 has started to make a whining noise.
  > It is not coming from the engine compartment it is coming from underneath.
  > I
  > am not sure if it is related to the transmition or the rear en. Some one I
  > know had mentioned the u joints but it does not click, clunk, chatter,
  > grind or any of that. It just makes a high pitch whine and alternates
  > between two frequencies. Kind of like a siren but not that loud.
  > Also it does not seem to be affecting the performance as far as I can
  > tell.
  > But then again I am not controlling the accelerator.
  > Any ideas?
  >
  > I know I need to find out what the problem is but I am not overly
  > concerned
  > about a sudden failure real soon. I had a GMC van that did this for over 2
  > years.
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  >
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html 
  > or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  > List 

Re: [BlindHandyMan] instructions for wiring up a generator

[Paul Franklin]

I have a portable generator large enough to supply power to my whole house. 
It is connected to my main electrical panel through a receptacle on the 
exterior of my house and a special disconnect switch in the basement.  The 
power supplied by my electrical utility which comes in from the street is 
connected to my main panel through this disconnect switch.  The emergency 
power supplied by my generator is also connected to the main panel through 
this disconnect switch.  This switch has 3 positions.  When the handle on 
the side of the switch box is pushed all the way up, power flows to the 
panel from the utility.  When this handle is placed in the down position 
power from the street is disconnected and emergency power from the generator 
flows to the panel. When this handle is placed in the neutral or middle 
position no power flows to the panel from either the street or the 
generator.  When we experience a power outage, I drag the generator out of 
the garage and connect it to the receptacle on the back wall of my house 
with a heavy 4 wire cord, start the engine and pull the handle on the 
disconnect switch into the down position and voila let their be light and 
power.  If you power any of the electrical circuits in your home with a 
generator, It is absolutely essential to install a switch to disconnect your 
electrical panel from the transmission cables in the street to protect 
utility workers from electrocution hazards caused by current flowing back in 
to the lines from your emergency generator.



Paul Franklin



- Original Message - 
From: "David Ferrin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 10:14 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] instructions for wiring up a generator


> It occurs to me that this subject at least in my memory hasn't come up on
> here as of yet so I'm putting it out for discussion.  Does anybody have
> instructions for hooking up a generator? If so please share them with the
> group.
> David Ferrin
> I believe that tomorrow is another day, and I'll probably screw that one 
> up
> too.
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

[Paul Franklin]

Sorry folks, I guess I missed the fact that there was 2 switches on the 
circuit, in the original post. Just helps to confirm the fact that I must be 
loosing it.

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 12:33 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off


  Sorry for the redundant info. I wrote this before I read lennies post.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:15 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  No, there is a switch at each end of the basement..So if the lights are
  turned on at the top of the steps and they go out the front basement door
  and turn the lights off the position at the top is reversed.
  - Original Message -
  From: "Paul Franklin" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  <mailto:pcfranklin%40charter.net> >
  To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  >
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:43 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Lenny can't you tell if the circuit is on by the position of the switch?
  Usually when the handle of the switch is in the up position, power is on to
  the circuit.

  Paul Franklin
  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Good idea, that will work.
  - Original Message -
  From: "Rob Monitor" < [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:mred99%40means.net> >
  To: < blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
  >
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Hi, Why don't you get one of the light sockets that screws into the light
  socket that has plugs in it then plug a radio into it leave it on just
  enough so you can hear it..
  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Hi All,
  I am looking for a simple solution to the problem of knowing if the
  basement lights are on or off.
  Some days I can detect if the light is on but not all of the time.
  Years ago I had a neat smoke detector that screwed into a light socket and
  the bulb then screwed into this detector. The unit had rechargeable
  batteries. Whenever you turned on the light the unit would beep letting
  you
  know it was charging. I haven't seen any of them in years. Is there some
  alarm that will beep when the lights are turned on?

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/
  <http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/>

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html <http://acbradio.org/handyman.html>
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  <http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml>

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ <http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/>

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  <http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/>
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
  list
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  <mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com>
  Yahoo! Groups Links

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html <http://acbradio.org/handyman.html>
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  <http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml>

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From V

Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

[Paul Franklin]

Lenny can't you tell if the circuit is on by the position of the switch?  
Usually when the handle of the switch is in the up position, power is on to the 
circuit.

Paul Franklin
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off


  Good idea, that will work.
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Rob Monitor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Hi, Why don't you get one of the light sockets that screws into the light 
  socket that has plugs in it then plug a radio into it leave it on just 
  enough so you can hear it..
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: Handyman-Blind
  Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off

  Hi All,
  I am looking for a simple solution to the problem of knowing if the 
  basement lights are on or off.
  Some days I can detect if the light is on but not all of the time.
  Years ago I had a neat smoke detector that screwed into a light socket and 
  the bulb then screwed into this detector. The unit had rechargeable 
  batteries. Whenever you turned on the light the unit would beep letting you 
  know it was charging. I haven't seen any of them in years. Is there some 
  alarm that will beep when the lights are turned on?

  Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

  Visit the new archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
  just send a blank message to:
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Yahoo! Groups Links



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



To listen to the show archives go to link
 http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/

Visit the new archives page at the following address
http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/  
For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list 
just send a blank message to:
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Yahoo! Groups Links

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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Ralph, So far I haven't had any problem with my wooden measuring jig 
warping.  I try to remember to hang it up in a dry corner when it's not in use 
and I occasionally apply paste wax to the sliding strip and groove to keep 
everything moving smoothly.  The locking thumb screw on my version of the jig 
is mounted on a block which straddles the groove for the sliding strip.  When 
this thumb screw is tightened, it pinches the sliding strip and the strip is 
then lock in position to transfer the measurement. 

 

Paul Franklin

 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Ralph Supernaw 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 10:44 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs


  Hi,

  I like these ideas and may end up wishing I'd heard them before I bought the
  rotomatic. I have a couple questions.

  First, do you have problems with the wood warping?

  Second, I don't quite understand the t-nut and thumb screw. Do they slide
  along the dovetail slot along with the pieces of wood?

  Thanks,
  Ralph
  _ 

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Paul Franklin
  Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 8:54 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

  Hi Tom, your measuring device sounds very similar to one of my jigs but even
  simpler to build. Every once in a while we have an inspiration, and get
  lucky and build a tool or jig which actually works well for us. May be next
  time I need a measuring jig I'll build it your way.

  Thanks for sharing your idea:

  Paul Franklin 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Huhn 
  To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 8:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

  About ten years ago I made something like these measuring devices out of
  wood. I cut two pieces of alder 3/4 x 1 about 5' and 3' and I cut a dove
  tail slot down the hole lenght and cut a matching piece to the dove tail
  slot that slides in the slot. I put a 't' nut in the 3/4 x 1 with a thumb
  screw to lock the slide stick. I use these all the time for taking
  measurements for cuts and they work extremely well and very acusrate
  - Original Message - 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@ <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

  The recent interest in measuring devices on this list prompts me to describe
  a couple of types of measuring gages or jigs that I built about 25 years
  ago, and that I still use to day. The first was made with a 4 foot length of
  3/16 stainless steel rod and 2 pieces of ¾ square steel bar stock about 1
  and ¼ long. The idea is to permanently affix one of the pieces of bar stock
  perpendicular to one end of the rod, either by gas welding or by threading
  the end of the rod and drilling and tapping the bar stock. The other piece
  of bar stock is drilled perpendicular to it's long axes, so it can slide
  smoothly along the rod. A second hole is drilled in this piece of bar stock
  parallel to it's long axes, which intersects the first whole. This second
  whole is tapped to accommodate a threaded bolt that acts as a set screw to
  lock the sliding square stock at any point along the rod. I used a bolt with
  a large knurled head that could be easily tightened or loosened by hand for
  the locking bolt. To use this device, I align the end of the rod with the
  fixed block at one end of the measurement to be taken, and slide and tighten
  the movable block at the other end of the piece or gap to be measured. I
  then can transfer this measurement to a board for cutting or use it to set
  stop blocks on a chop saw or set a fence on a table saw. I have found this
  device to be quick to use and accurate enough for cabinet work. Over the
  years I have built several shorter versions of this device for use in tight
  areas.

  My second home made device has turned out to be especially handy for
  installing base boards, door trim, interior studs or wall paneling. It is
  primarily made out of wood and it telescopes from 4 to 8 feet in length, and
  can be locked at any point between. It is made from a 4 Foot, clear ¾ pine
  board about 2 Inches wide. I cut a 3/8 Inch deep by ¾ Inch wide groove down
  the center of one of the 2 Inch faces of the board and ripped a 4 Foot strip
  of pine to slide smoothly in the groove. I next cut a 4 Foot long by 2 Inch
  piece of ¼ plywood and glued and nailed it over the groove in the pine
  board, to make a 4 Foot box or sleeve for the pine strip to slide in. I then
  cut a 2 by 2 Inch ¾ Inch thick pine block and drilled a ¼ whole in its
  center. Next I temporarily aligned this block on the plywo

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Robert, Both of my measuring gauges or jigs make good do it your self 
projects which can be made at little or no cost, with whatever materials you 
can find around the home or workshop scrap pile.  The first is just a steel rod 
with a sliding collar or block which can be locked at any point along its 
length.  If you don't have a steel rod you could substitute a long dowel, a 
wood strip or even a plastic strip and make a sliding block out of wood or 
plastic instead of steel.  The second jig is simply a strip of wood which 
slides and can be locked in a groove ripped down the center of a board.Mine 
was made out of a ¾ Inch X 3 Inch X 4 Foot clear pine board and a strip of ¼ 
plywood.  Again you could use whatever materials that you might have on hand.  
The fun for me in doing this kind of a project is to make something useful out 
of a combination of junk that you can find around the home or shop.  Let me 
know if you come up with any better ideas for measuring jigs.  If you plan to 
purchase some kind of a measuring device, you would probably be better off to 
invest in a rotormatick rule or a talking tape measure.   

 

Paul Franklin

  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert J. Moore 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 10:36 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs


  Paul
  Could you build more of these? and how much would you need to charge?

  -Original Message-
  From:

  blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Paul Franklin
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:53 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

  The recent interest in measuring devices on this list prompts me to describe
  a couple of types of measuring gages or jigs that I built about 25 years
  ago, and that I still use to day. The first was made with a 4 foot length of
  3/16 stainless steel rod and 2 pieces of ¾ square steel bar stock about 1
  and ¼ long. The idea is to permanently affix one of the pieces of bar stock
  perpendicular to one end of the rod, either by gas welding or by threading
  the end of the rod and drilling and tapping the bar stock. The other piece
  of bar stock is drilled perpendicular to it's long axes, so it can slide
  smoothly along the rod. A second hole is drilled in this piece of bar stock
  parallel to it's long axes, which intersects the first whole. This second
  whole is tapped to accommodate a threaded bolt that acts as a set screw to
  lock the sliding square stock at any point along the rod. I used a bolt with
  a large knurled head that could be easily tightened or loosened by hand for
  the locking bolt. To use this device, I align the end of the rod with the
  fixed block at one end of the measurement to be taken, and slide and tighten
  the movable block at the other end of the piece or gap to be measured. I
  then can transfer this measurement to a board for cutting or use it to set
  stop blocks on a chop saw or set a fence on a table saw. I have found this
  device to be quick to use and accurate enough for cabinet work. Over the
  years I have built several shorter versions of this device for use in tight
  areas.

  My second home made device has turned out to be especially handy for
  installing base boards, door trim, interior studs or wall paneling. It is
  primarily made out of wood and it telescopes from 4 to 8 feet in length, and
  can be locked at any point between. It is made from a 4 Foot, clear ¾ pine
  board about 2 Inches wide. I cut a 3/8 Inch deep by ¾ Inch wide groove down
  the center of one of the 2 Inch faces of the board and ripped a 4 Foot strip
  of pine to slide smoothly in the groove. I next cut a 4 Foot long by 2 Inch
  piece of ¼ plywood and glued and nailed it over the groove in the pine
  board, to make a 4 Foot box or sleeve for the pine strip to slide in. I then
  cut a 2 by 2 Inch ¾ Inch thick pine block and drilled a ¼ whole in its
  center. Next I temporarily aligned this block on the plywood side covering
  the groove at one end of the device and with the sliding strip removed, I
  extended the ¼ Inched Whole through the plywood, into the groove, but not
  into the pine board at the bottom of the groove. Next I tightly mortised a ¼
  square nut into the face of the 2 by 2 Inch block so it lines up with a
  threaded bolt inserted through the whole in the block and is flush with one
  face of the block. With a ¼ bolt threaded through the block and nut, and
  protruding about ½ inch below the nut I inserted the end of the locking bolt
  through the plywood side and into the groove below. I then glued and nailed
  the block and locking bolt assembly to the plywood side covering the groove.
  With the sliding pine strip inserted into the groove the threaded bolt on
  the block can be tightened to lock the strip in any position between 4 and 8
  Feet. To use the device I align one o

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Tom, your measuring device sounds very similar to one of my jigs but even 
simpler to build.  Every once in a while we have an inspiration, and get lucky 
and build a tool or jig which actually works well for us.  May be next time I 
need a measuring jig I'll build it your way.

 

Thanks for sharing your idea:

 

Paul Franklin  

  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Huhn 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 8:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs


  About ten years ago I made something like these measuring devices out of 
wood. I cut two pieces of alder 3/4 x 1 about 5' and 3' and I cut a dove tail 
slot down the hole lenght and cut a matching piece to the dove tail slot that 
slides in the slot. I put a 't' nut in the 3/4 x 1 with a thumb screw to lock 
the slide stick. I use these all the time for taking measurements for cuts and 
they work extremely well and very acusrate
  - Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul Franklin 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:53 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

  The recent interest in measuring devices on this list prompts me to describe 
a couple of types of measuring gages or jigs that I built about 25 years ago, 
and that I still use to day. The first was made with a 4 foot length of 3/16 
stainless steel rod and 2 pieces of ¾ square steel bar stock about 1 and ¼ 
long. The idea is to permanently affix one of the pieces of bar stock 
perpendicular to one end of the rod, either by gas welding or by threading the 
end of the rod and drilling and tapping the bar stock. The other piece of bar 
stock is drilled perpendicular to it's long axes, so it can slide smoothly 
along the rod. A second hole is drilled in this piece of bar stock parallel to 
it's long axes, which intersects the first whole. This second whole is tapped 
to accommodate a threaded bolt that acts as a set screw to lock the sliding 
square stock at any point along the rod. I used a bolt with a large knurled 
head that could be easily tightened or loosened by hand for the locking bolt. 
To use this device, I align the end of the rod with the fixed block at one end 
of the measurement to be taken, and slide and tighten the movable block at the 
other end of the piece or gap to be measured. I then can transfer this 
measurement to a board for cutting or use it to set stop blocks on a chop saw 
or set a fence on a table saw. I have found this device to be quick to use and 
accurate enough for cabinet work. Over the years I have built several shorter 
versions of this device for use in tight areas.

  My second home made device has turned out to be especially handy for 
installing base boards, door trim, interior studs or wall paneling. It is 
primarily made out of wood and it telescopes from 4 to 8 feet in length, and 
can be locked at any point between. It is made from a 4 Foot, clear ¾ pine 
board about 2 Inches wide. I cut a 3/8 Inch deep by ¾ Inch wide groove down the 
center of one of the 2 Inch faces of the board and ripped a 4 Foot strip of 
pine to slide smoothly in the groove. I next cut a 4 Foot long by 2 Inch piece 
of ¼ plywood and glued and nailed it over the groove in the pine board, to make 
a 4 Foot box or sleeve for the pine strip to slide in. I then cut a 2 by 2 Inch 
¾ Inch thick pine block and drilled a ¼ whole in its center. Next I temporarily 
aligned this block on the plywood side covering the groove at one end of the 
device and with the sliding strip removed, I extended the ¼ Inched Whole 
through the plywood, into the groove, but not into the pine board at the bottom 
of the groove. Next I tightly mortised a ¼ square nut into the face of the 2 by 
2 Inch block so it lines up with a threaded bolt inserted through the whole in 
the block and is flush with one face of the block. With a ¼ bolt threaded 
through the block and nut, and protruding about ½ inch below the nut I inserted 
the end of the locking bolt through the plywood side and into the groove below. 
I then glued and nailed the block and locking bolt assembly to the plywood side 
covering the groove. With the sliding pine strip inserted into the groove the 
threaded bolt on the block can be tightened to lock the strip in any position 
between 4 and 8 Feet. To use the device I align one of its ends with a wall or 
the floor and slide out the strip to make the needed measurement. With the 
locking bolt tightened this measurement can then be transferred to a board or 
panel for accurate cutting. I don't use this jig often, but it's nice to know 
that it is hanging on the shop wall when the need arises.

  I think that it has taken me longer to describe this stuff than it took to 
build it. Sorry for being so long winded.

  Paul Franklin 

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: W

[BlindHandyMan] Two measuring gages or jigs

[Paul Franklin]

The recent interest in measuring devices on this list prompts me to describe a 
couple of types of measuring gages or jigs that I built about 25 years ago, and 
that I still use to day.  The first was made with a 4 foot length of 3/16 
stainless steel rod and 2 pieces of ¾ square steel bar stock about 1 and ¼ 
long.  The idea is to permanently affix one of the pieces of bar stock 
perpendicular to one end of the rod, either by gas welding or by threading the 
end of the rod and drilling and tapping the bar stock.  The other piece of bar 
stock is drilled perpendicular to it's long axes, so it can slide smoothly 
along the rod.  A second hole is drilled in this piece of bar stock parallel to 
it's long axes, which intersects the first whole.  This second whole is tapped 
to accommodate a threaded bolt that acts as a set screw to lock the sliding 
square stock at any point along the rod.  I used a bolt with a large knurled 
head that could be easily tightened or loosened by hand for the locking bolt.  
To use this device, I align the end of the rod with the fixed block at one end 
of the measurement to be taken, and slide and tighten the movable block at the 
other end of the piece or gap to be measured.  I then can transfer this 
measurement to a board for cutting or use it to set stop blocks on a chop saw 
or set a fence on a table saw.  I have found this device to be quick to use and 
accurate enough for cabinet work.  Over the years I have built several shorter 
versions of this device for use in tight areas.

 

My second home made device has turned out to be especially handy for installing 
base boards, door trim, interior studs or wall paneling.  It is primarily made 
out of wood and it telescopes from 4 to 8 feet in length, and can be locked at 
any point between.  It is made from a 4 Foot, clear ¾ pine board about 2 Inches 
wide.  I cut a 3/8 Inch deep by ¾ Inch wide groove down the center of one of 
the 2 Inch faces of the board and ripped a 4 Foot strip of pine to slide 
smoothly in the groove.  I next cut a 4 Foot long by 2 Inch piece of ¼ plywood 
and glued and nailed it over the groove in the pine board, to make a 4 Foot box 
or sleeve for the pine strip to slide in.  I then cut a 2 by 2 Inch ¾ Inch 
thick pine block and drilled a ¼ whole in its center.  Next I temporarily 
aligned this block on the plywood side covering the groove at one end of the 
device and with the sliding strip removed, I extended the ¼ Inched Whole 
through the plywood, into the groove, but not into the pine board at the bottom 
of the groove.  Next I tightly mortised a ¼ square nut into the face of the 2 
by 2 Inch block so it lines up with a threaded bolt inserted through the whole 
in the block and is flush with one face of the block.  With a ¼ bolt threaded 
through the block and nut, and protruding about ½ inch below the nut I inserted 
the end of the locking bolt through the plywood side and into the groove below. 
  I then glued and nailed the block and locking bolt assembly to the plywood 
side covering the groove.  With the sliding pine strip inserted into the groove 
the threaded bolt on the block can be tightened to lock the strip in any 
position between 4 and 8 Feet.  To use the device I align one of its ends with 
a wall or the floor and slide out the strip to make the needed measurement.  
With the locking bolt tightened this measurement can then be transferred to a 
board or panel for accurate cutting.  I don't use this jig often, but it's nice 
to know that it is hanging on the shop wall when the need arises.

 

I think that it has taken me longer to describe this stuff than it took to 
build it.  Sorry for being so long winded.

 

Paul Franklin  

  

  - Original Message - 
  From: Lenny McHugh 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 11:08 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Rotomatic ruler


  Dale,
  I liked your description of using the ruler to set up your miter saw. I 
  thought that I was the only one who used his chin or cheek to hold down the 
  saw to align the stock. I don't know how many times my wife made a comment 
  when she saw me doing that. Now I can tell her that it is the proper way to 
  set up the saw.
  Great description of the tool and use.
  Lenny
  - Original Message - 
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler

  You have done pretty well at describing the rule.

  The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is
  the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if
  you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to
  use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.

  You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the
  rectangular nut, this is to help orient it.

  You are correc

Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sink trap

[Paul Franklin]

Robert, you can remove the plug in the sink trap by turning it counter 
clockwise with channel locks or an adjustable wrench.  Have a can or a cup 
ready when you take out the plug to catch the water in the trap.



Paul Franklin



- Original Message - 
From: "Robert j. moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Sink trap


>I want to open the trap under the bathroom sink
> It looks to have a plug of some sort at the very bottom. It is about the
> size of a quarter and it has a small tab on each side.  I was wondering if
> that comes off and if so how do you remove it.I don't want to break those
> tabs.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ray Boyce
> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 1:14 PM
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Happy b day Ray
>
>
> Hi Texas
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Ray
> - Original Message -
> From: "Carla Jo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "blm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 4:36 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Happy b day Ray
>
>
>> Here's wishing you a very happy birthday Ray.  I hope you have a great
>> one.
>> Here are a few who share your special day.
>> cj
>> January 7:
>> 07 - Jan - 1971
>> David Yost
>> (36)
>> 07 - Jan - 1964
>> Nicolas Cage
>> (43)
>> 07 - Jan - 1957
>> Katie Couric
>> (50)
>> 07 - Jan - 1948
>> Kenny Loggins
>> (59)
>> 07 - Jan - 1938
>> Paul Revere
>> (69)
>> 07 - Jan - 1928
>> William Peter Blatty
>> (79)
>> 07 - Jan - 1922
>> Jean-Pierre Rampal
>> (85)
>> 07 - Jan - 1912
>> Charles Addams
>> (95)
>> 07 - Jan - 1800
>> Millard Fillmore
>> (207)
>>
>>
>>
>> To listen to the show archives go to link
>> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
>> or
>> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
>> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>>
>> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
>> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>>
>> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
>> List Members At The Following address:
>> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>>
>> Visit the new archives page at the following address
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
>> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
>> list just send a blank message to:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/618 - Release Date: 1/6/2007
>> 7:47 PM
>>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list
> just send a blank message to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To listen to the show archives go to link
> http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
> or
> ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
> http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
>
> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
> http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
>
> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
> List Members At The Following address:
> http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
>
> Visit the new archives page at the following address
> http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
> list just send a blank message to:
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Re: [BlindHandyMan] Checking Engine Oil

[Paul Franklin]

Hi Lew:  Thanks for taking the time to reply to my question.  I understand your 
idea of using calibrated and notched strips of plastic or sheet mettle to 
determine the actual oil level in the oil pan.  What I don't understand is how 
do I establish the point along the plastic or sheet mettle strip that 
corresponds to the full line on the dipstick for the particular engine that I 
am working on?  In other words how do I determine the exact point along the 
strip where the oil level is full but not over full. Some engines use a dip 
stick that is 24 inches long but only use the bottom 5 inches to measure the 
oil level, while others have a short dip stick and use most of its length to 
measure oil level.  May be the best way to approach this problem would be to 
make an individualized notched strip for each of my engines using it's 
particular dip stick as a pattern.  Thanks again Lew, You have got me thinking 
along the write track and to morrow I'll go out and experiment a little.  

 

Paul Franklin





  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 18, 2006 4:33 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Checking Engine Oil


  hello there friend

  a fellow emgineer speaking to you. I repair and operate petrol driven 
  machinery most of the time so have a method of determining my oil levels and 
  changes of oil.

  for oil refills get a piece of thin plastic which is reasonably long and 
  send it into the oil tank to the bottom. once done so get some electrical 
tape 
  and make a raised bump at the top where the rod is exposed at the lid. then 
  with a knife blade make a series of scores into the plastic.

  again the same if you want with a piece of metal. thin sheet metal should 
  do. but this one will use a piece of cork as an adjustable stop. this means 
you 
  can place the rod into the tank of choice and adjust the sliding cork which 
  will be a nice tight fit down or up the rod to match the depth from lid lip 
to 
  base of tank. I have one for my pro machines and a seperate unit for my 
  chainsaws which require chain oil refils on a regular basis

  lew

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[BlindHandyMan] Checking Engine Oil

[Paul Franklin]

Hi blind handymen and handywomen.  I am a relatively new member to this list 
and this is my first post to the group.  My vision has gotten progressively 
worse for all of my life, and I am now totally blind. During my lifetime I 
have had to check the engine oil on a regular basis in agricultural 
equipment, excavating equipment, trucks and small engines that I have owned 
at various times.  Every time that I have checked the oil in any of these 
units, I have had to depend on a sighted person to read the dip stick. 
Sometimes this can create problems.  its not always a popular suggestion to 
invite your wife to interrupt her Saturday morning cake baking to step out 
to the storage shed, in the poring rain to look at the dip stick in the 
generator, or what do you do when your 5 year old twin grand children 
disagree whether the oil in the tractor is on the full line or the add line. 
Finally my question is, has anyone come up with any ideas for checking 
engine oil without sighted help?  I enjoy this list vary much and I would 
greatly appreciate any suggestions or ideas from list members.



Paul Franklin