Re: Stus-List Another boat

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Mark,I doubt the guy is being deliberately dishonest about any of his 
descriptions.  He probably believes everything.  What I noticed as I shopped 
for a boat was that most of the brokers were more upfront about condition than 
the owners trying to sell on there own.   Lets face it, we overlook things 
sometimes as "not so bad" because either we would rather spend the boat bucks 
on something else, or it seems like too much of a pain in the butt to deal with 
right now...whatever.  The point is we convince ourselves that things are not 
as bad as they seem sometimes.  Now, add to the mix that you want someone to 
buy your boat and you have a price that you would like to get for it.  I think 
you are going to be even more willing to overlook the condition of things.  
After all, you first have to convince yourself that your asking price is fair. 
I must have looked 25 boats in my search over 2 years.  Almost non of the for 
sale by owner boats were in the condition described.  I don't think any of 
them, except one, were deliberately misrepresenting their boat.  In fact, I 
pretty much liked all of them.  I think it was an emotional assessment that led 
them to either not disclose something or overstate condition. On the other 
hand, the brokers want to move boats.  They know an over priced boat is going 
to sit and sit.  There is nothing in it for them to over price a boat.  I had 
brokers tell me about blistering and soft spots right over the phone.  they 
didn't want to waste their time meeting, showing, and opening up a boat if it 
wasn't as described.  I walked away disappointed from for sale by owner boats 
way more often than brokered boats. I got to a point that if the description 
did not give the age of the sails, they needed replaced.  It seemed that, if 
anyone bought sails within the previous 12, or so, years, they listed the year 
they were purchased.  My research made clear that sails are generally 
completely bagged out by 10 years unless serviced and resewn.  Then 15 years 
might be your usable life.  Bagged out sails really make for unexpected 
reactions to the wind.  If you are looking at a reputedly tender boat, bagged 
out sails will certainly make it WAY more tender.  It's the shape that goes, 
not the material.  I ended up buying new sails for both of my boats and I'm 
glad I did.  New sails just handle the wind and the gusts better. Another thing 
I noticed was that broker listed boats, where the broker actually returned 
calls, were, generally, more fairly priced.  I went out hunting a few times 
because some of the un-returned calls were on boats that looked great in the 
adds but, upon finding them on my own, I understood the un-returned calls. So, 
I just kept looking and looking and looking until something felt right. Anyway, 
those are my insights and experiences. worth every bit of $0.02 American or 
Canadian or Australian for that matter, I think! DannyLolita1973 Viking 
33Westport Point, MA

-- Original Message --
From: Stevan Plavsa 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 23:36:04 -0400


Keep looking and don't settle. I got my 32 for 18k, that's right in your 
ballpark. I was originally looking for 27s and 29s but I didn't find any that 
were reasonably priced or even in reasonable shape. I went to look at the 32 on 
a whim because it was the closest boat to me, and a broker boat no less .. 
something I'de been avoiding up to that point. I had driven to NY to look at 
boats on the south shore of Lake Ontario, not a complete waste of time because 
it helped me compare and understand the market better.� And you know 
what? The 32, literally 5 minutes from my house, was easily in way better shape 
than any of the boats I'de looked at up to that point. I was sold on it 
instantly. It was more boat than I hoped for and it was in reach. Life is short 
and I can be pretty impulsive so I made an offer, had it surveyed and bought 
the boat. I think the PO was happy to get the 18k and I think he was happy to 
deal with me, we got along great. Some other guy was in line before me but he 
was a huge hassle for the seller. I lucked out, the PO was a great guy. 
�I don't race so my requirements may be different than yours. My boat is 
a freshwater boat and it surveyed well. The sails were worn out and I just 
spent $1600 (shipping in!) all told on a genoa from Rolly Tasker, it's a great 
sail and an incredible value. The main is still usable and will be for a couple 
of years yet. Canvas is still good, not great, but doesn't need replacing.  
but I have spent a lot. I've spent money refurbishing the 
head/tanks/freshwater/wiring/instruments/stereo/solar and the list goes on. A 
boat that has had that stuff done is worth more, but then, if you do it 
yourself it's really YOUR boat. My boat is MY boat! I EARNED it because I fixed 
the shit out of it!�  SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto

On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Knowles 

Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Stevan Plavsa]

I think Danny's assessment of broker vs owner reflects my experience
exactly. In my case, the broker I was dealing with primarily dealt with
brand new boats and more recent models. The "old" C&C 32 was an oddity
there and I think the broker really wanted to move it because it didn't
represent a commission worth working too hard for. The seller's original
asking price was much higher and he lamented to me after the sale that he
paid $50k for the boat 8 years prior.

I avoided brokers because of my experience with used car lots. I learned
that the two are totally different.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 8:15 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:

> Mark,
> I doubt the guy is being deliberately dishonest about any of his
> descriptions.  He probably believes everything.  What I noticed as I
> shopped for a boat was that most of the brokers were more upfront about
> condition than the owners trying to sell on there own.
>
> Lets face it, we overlook things sometimes as "not so bad" because either
> we would rather spend the boat bucks on something else, or it seems like
> too much of a pain in the butt to deal with right now...whatever.  The
> point is we convince ourselves that things are not as bad as they seem
> sometimes.  Now, add to the mix that you want someone to buy your boat and
> you have a price that you would like to get for it.  I think you are going
> to be even more willing to overlook the condition of things.  After all,
> you first have to convince yourself that your asking price is fair.
>
> I must have looked 25 boats in my search over 2 years.  Almost non of the
> for sale by owner boats were in the condition described.  I don't think any
> of them, except one, were deliberately misrepresenting their boat.  In
> fact, I pretty much liked all of them.  I think it was an emotional
> assessment that led them to either not
> disclose something or overstate condition.
>
> On the other hand, the brokers want to move boats.  They know an over
> priced boat is going to sit and sit.  There is nothing in it for them to
> over price a boat.  I had brokers tell me about blistering and soft spots
> right over the phone.  they didn't want to waste their time meeting,
> showing, and opening up a boat if it wasn't as described.  I walked away
> disappointed from for sale by owner boats way more often than brokered
> boats.
>
> I got to a point that if the description did not give the age of the
> sails, they needed replaced.  It seemed that, if anyone bought sails within
> the previous 12, or so, years, they listed the year they were purchased.
>  My research made clear that sails are generally completely bagged out by
> 10 years unless serviced and resewn.  Then 15 years might be
> your usable life.  Bagged out sails really make for unexpected reactions to
> the wind.  If you are looking at a reputedly tender boat, bagged out sails
> will certainly make it WAY more tender.  It's the shape that goes, not the
> material.  I ended up buying new sails for both of my boats and I'm glad I
> did.  New sails just handle the wind and the gusts better.
>
> Another thing I noticed was that broker listed boats, where the broker
> actually returned calls, were, generally, more fairly priced.  I went out
> hunting a few times because some of the un-returned calls were on boats
> that looked great in the adds but, upon finding them on my own, I
> understood the un-returned calls.
>
> So, I just kept looking and looking and looking until something felt right.
>
> Anyway, those are my insights and experiences. worth every bit of $0.02
> American or Canadian or Australian for that matter, I think!
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Stevan Plavsa 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 23:36:04 -0400
>
> Keep looking and don't settle. I got my 32 for 18k, that's right in your
> ballpark. I was originally looking for 27s and 29s but I didn't find any
> that were reasonably priced or even in reasonable shape. I went to look at
> the 32 on a whim because it was the closest boat to me, and a broker boat
> no less .. something I'de been avoiding up to that point. I had driven to
> NY to look at boats on the south shore of Lake Ontario, not a complete
> waste of time because it helped me compare and understand the market
> better.�
>
> And you know what? The 32, literally 5 minutes from my house, was easily
> in way better shape than any of the boats I'de looked at up to that point.
> I was sold on it instantly. It was more boat than I hoped for and it was in
> reach. Life is short and I can be pretty impulsive so I made an offer, had
> it surveyed and bought the boat. I think the PO was happy to get the 18k
> and I think he was happy to deal with me, we got along great. Some other
> guy was in line before me but he was a huge hassle for the seller. I lucked
> out, the PO was a great guy.

Re: Stus-List Another boat - broker vs owner

[Dennis C.]

Excellent assessment, Danny.


There's a Pearson 31 in my marina that sits idle.  I steered a friend of mine 
looking for a boat to the owner.  The guy was receptive to selling but his 
price was waaay out of line.  Chatting with the owner later, he told me he had 
just put a $4000 bottom job on it and had added that to the pricing he'd seen 
online, etc.  Totally unrealistic.  


Touche' wasn't for sale when I bought it.  I just noticed that it had been idle 
for 8 years.  I got the owners name from the marina manager, contacted him and 
worked the deal.  Fortunately, he was reasonable on price.

It's hard to find boats that might be available but not "officially" for sale.  
Because I work on boats and am around the marinas a lot, I could probably find 
some nice candidates.  I see lots of idled boats.  The dock fees are probably 
set up on automatic payments.  Out of sight, out of mind.  


Walk the piers.  Talk to owners, boat maintenance folks, marina managers, etc.  
They may suggest boats that can be purchased.

If you see a boat you like, ask if it's for sale.  No harm in asking.

Is Touche' for sale?  Absolutely!  Always.  But is it reasonably priced?  I 
doubt it.  :)


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: "djhaug...@juno.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 7:15 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
> 
>
>
>Mark,
>I doubt the guy is being deliberately dishonest about any of his descriptions. 
> He probably believes everything.  What I noticed as I shopped for a boat was 
>that most of the brokers were more upfront about condition than the owners 
>trying to sell on there own.  
> 
>Lets face it, we overlook things sometimes as "not so bad" because either we 
>would rather spend the boat bucks on something else, or it seems like too much 
>of a pain in the butt to deal with right now...whatever.  The point is we 
>convince ourselves that things are not as bad as they seem sometimes.  Now, 
>add to the mix that you want someone to buy your boat and you have a price 
>that you would like to get for it.  I think you are going to be even more 
>willing to overlook the condition of things.  After all, you first have to 
>convince yourself that your asking price is fair.
> 
>I must have looked 25 boats in my search over 2 years.  Almost non of the for 
>sale by owner boats were in the condition described.  I don't think any of 
>them, except one, were deliberately misrepresenting their boat.  In fact, I 
>pretty much liked all of them.  I think it was an emotional assessment that 
>led them to either not disclose something or overstate condition.
> 
>On the other hand, the brokers want to move boats.  They know an over priced 
>boat is going to sit and sit.  There is nothing in it for them to over price a 
>boat.  I had brokers tell me about blistering and soft spots right over the 
>phone.  they didn't want to waste their time meeting, showing, and opening up 
>a boat if it wasn't as described.  I walked away disappointed from for sale by 
>owner boats way more often than brokered boats.
> 
>I got to a point that if the description did not give the age of the sails, 
>they needed replaced.  It seemed that, if anyone bought sails within the 
>previous 12, or so, years, they listed the year they were purchased.  My 
>research made clear that sails are generally completely bagged out by 10 years 
>unless serviced and resewn.  Then 15 years might be your usable life.  Bagged 
>out sails really make for unexpected reactions to the wind.  If you are 
>looking at a reputedly tender boat, bagged out sails will certainly make it 
>WAY more tender.  It's the shape that goes, not the material.  I ended up 
>buying new sails for both of my boats and I'm glad I did.  New sails just 
>handle the wind and the gusts better.
> 
>Another thing I noticed was that broker listed boats, where the broker 
>actually returned calls, were, generally, more fairly priced.  I went out 
>hunting a few times because some of the un-returned calls were on boats that 
>looked great in the adds but, upon finding them on my own, I understood the 
>un-returned calls.
> 
>So, I just kept looking and looking and looking until something felt right.
> 
>Anyway, those are my insights and experiences. worth every bit of $0.02 
>American or Canadian or Australian for that matter, I think!
> 
>Danny
>Lolita
>1973 Viking 33
>Westport Point, MA
>
>___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Dennis C.]

More on owner pricing:  

Here's a 29-2 listed for $39,900:  


One for $14,500:  

A 30 for $11,900:  

Saw a 24 for $2200.

Dennis C.
___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List Jake

[Gary Nylander]

There's a great picture of Jake and his crew gracing Midnight Mistress on page 
8 of the new SpinSheet blurb. Nice shirts, Jake. Did you get the ''best 
dressed" award along with your first in class?

Gary___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jake

[Joel Aronson]

Very cool!  Spinsheet.com.  Read the current issue online.  I like the red
cove stripe too.

Joel


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 9:51 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

> **
> There's a great picture of Jake and his crew gracing Midnight Mistress on
> page 8 of the new SpinSheet blurb. Nice shirts, Jake. Did you get the
> ''best dressed" award along with your first in class?
>
> Gary
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jake

[dwight veinot]

testing


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> Very cool!  Spinsheet.com.  Read the current issue online.  I like the red
> cove stripe too.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 9:51 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
>
>> **
>> There's a great picture of Jake and his crew gracing Midnight Mistress on
>> page 8 of the new SpinSheet blurb. Nice shirts, Jake. Did you get the
>> ''best dressed" award along with your first in class?
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Jake

[Joel Aronson]

Dwight,

Loud and clear!


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 10:03 AM, dwight veinot  wrote:

> testing
>
>
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Joel Aronson wrote:
>
>> Very cool!  Spinsheet.com.  Read the current issue online.  I like the
>> red cove stripe too.
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 9:51 AM, Gary Nylander 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> **
>>> There's a great picture of Jake and his crew gracing Midnight Mistress
>>> on page 8 of the new SpinSheet blurb. Nice shirts, Jake. Did you get the
>>> ''best dressed" award along with your first in class?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Stus-List head replacement

[brooley]

Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do listers 
have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access under the 
platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  Or creating 
an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there anything under 
there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.

Bev Genader Bob Morgan
C&C 37
___
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Re: Stus-List head replacement

[Dennis C.]

Should be able to use SS lag screws.  Most boats have a nice piece of plywood 
there.  Drill the hole and you'll see.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: "broo...@aol.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 9:12 AM
>Subject: Stus-List head replacement
> 
>
>
>Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do listers 
>have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access under the 
>platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  Or 
>creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there anything 
>under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
> 
>Bev Genader Bob Morgan
>C&C 37
>___
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List head replacement

[Ron Kaye]

Bev and Bob, 

We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a replacement 
Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit "all years" 
models.  

It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection.  Blah! 

So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.

Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke 
off when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
ones.

So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It turned 
out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. The 
answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We used 5/16" x 
2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the wood. 

I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the 
surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been 
better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  Take it off and 
drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The fiberglass layer must 
be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will start cracking. So 
do that just at the top of the holes.  

Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and 
mark the rear ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers 
and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.   

Worked like a charm for us newbies. 

Ron & Lisa  

On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  wrote:

> Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
> listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access 
> under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  
> Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there 
> anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
>  
> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> C&C 37
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 91, Issue 4

[dreuge]

Hi,

I would try the thickened G/Flex epoxy from West Systems. It bonds plastic 
very well.  See the G/flex epoxy kayak challenge on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a5RlcP-4JE


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

On Aug 2, 2013, at 8:28 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 13:26:00 -0300
> From: Knowles Rich 
> To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" ,
>   "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
> acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 
> 
> RIch
> 
> 
> On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
>> The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
>> hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the 
>> deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected to 
>> the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 1/4". 
>> Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
>> I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.
> 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List awards

[wwadjo...@aol.com]

Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term) 
sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.

Bill Waker
Evening Star
C & C 36
Pentwater, Mi

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Ron Kaye" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List head replacement
Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM

Bev and Bob, 

We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a replacement 
Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit "all years" 
models.  

It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection.  Blah! 

So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.

Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke 
off when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
ones.

So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It turned 
out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. The 
answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We used 5/16" x 
2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the wood. 

I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the 
surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been 
better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  Take it off and 
drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The fiberglass layer must 
be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will start cracking. So 
do that just at the top of the holes.  

Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and 
mark the rear ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers 
and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.   

Worked like a charm for us newbies. 

Ron & Lisa  

On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  wrote:

> Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
> listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access 
> under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  
> Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there 
> anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
>  
> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> C&C 37
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List awards

[Edd Schillay]

Bill,

Contact Evan at Long Island Awards Gallery in Syosset, NY 
(http://www.liawardgallery.com). I know it's far from you, but their prices 
just can't be touched. 

I've used them for years. You can get a nice set of first, second and 
thirds, in decreasing sizes, for about $100-$150 total, including engraving. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website


On Aug 2, 2013, at 11:51 AM, "wwadjo...@aol.com"  wrote:

> Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term) 
> sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.
> 
> Bill Waker
> Evening Star
> C & C 36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> Sent from my HTC
> 
> - Reply message -
> From: "Ron Kaye" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List head replacement
> Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM
> 
> Bev and Bob, 
> 
> We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a replacement 
> Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit "all years" 
> models.  
> 
> It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection.  Blah! 
> 
> So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.
> 
> Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke 
> off when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
> ones.
> 
> So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
> threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It 
> turned out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass 
> there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We 
> used 5/16" x 2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the 
> wood. 
> 
> I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the 
> surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been 
> better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  Take it off and 
> drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The fiberglass layer 
> must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will start 
> cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes.  
> 
> Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle 
> and mark the rear ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the 
> washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.   
> 
> Worked like a charm for us newbies. 
> 
> Ron & Lisa  
> 
> On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  wrote:
> 
> > Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
> > listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any 
> > access under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been 
> > suggested.  Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  
> > Is there anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
> >  
> > Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> > C&C 37
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List awards

[Gary Nylander]

We are using engraved cocktail glasses. Very useful and not expensive.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: wwadjo...@aol.com 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 11:51 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List awards


  Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term) 
sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.


  Bill Waker
  Evening Star
  C & C 36
  Pentwater, Mi


  Sent from my HTC


  - Reply message -
  From: "Ron Kaye" 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Subject: Stus-List head replacement
  Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM


Bev and Bob, 

We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a replacement 
Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit "all years" 
models.  

It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection.  Blah! 

So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.

Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke 
off when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
ones.

So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It turned 
out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. The 
answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We used 5/16" x 
2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the wood. 

I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the 
surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been 
better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  Take it off and 
drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The fiberglass layer must 
be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will start cracking. So 
do that just at the top of the holes.  

Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and 
mark the rear ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers 
and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.   

Worked like a charm for us newbies. 

Ron & Lisa  

On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  wrote:

> Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
> listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access 
> under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  
> Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there 
> anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
>  
> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> C&C 37
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com


--


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Re: Stus-List Opening port Now: fix with G/Flex

[dreuge]

Hi,

I would try the thickened G/Flex epoxy from West Systems. It bonds plastic 
very well.  See the G/flex epoxy kayak challenge on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a5RlcP-4JE


-
Paul E.
1979 C&C 29 Mk1
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



> 
> On Aug 2, 2013, at 8:28 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 13:26:00 -0300
>> From: Knowles Rich 
>> To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" ,
>>  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
>> 
>> Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
>> acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 
>> 
>> RIch
>> 
>> 
>> On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:
>> 
>>> The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
>>> hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the 
>>> deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected 
>>> to the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 
>>> 1/4". 
>>> Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
>>> I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List awards

[Bill Bina]

These have become a popular alternative...

http://www.conchking.com/Horns.htm

Bill Bina

On 8/2/2013 11:51 AM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is 
relative term) sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht 
club.


Bill Waker
Evening Star
C & C 36
Pentwater, Mi


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Re: Stus-List head replacement

[Stevan Plavsa]

This is what you want, I posed the exact same question to the list about an
year ago:

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/50845;jsessionid=FQksR7cCxNy14LM8jtQX5DcnjQvnM7HBcByYlRprGmQf2dBlQLw3!-1266547739!1014929580

On my 32 there were 4 bolts for the original head that didn't line up with
the twist & lock that I was replacing it with. I think I reused one of the
original posts and drilled three holes. There was indeed plywood, but only
under one side IIRC. So I used the snaptoggles anyway.

I think the suggestion to go ahead and drill the holes is sound. I would a
really small bit to see what's in there. If you've got wood, go for some
large thread screws, if not, go for the snaptoggles.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 10:59 AM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> Bev and Bob,
>
> We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a
> replacement Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to
> fit "all years" models.
>
> It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection.  Blah!
>
> So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.
>
> Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts")
> broke off when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the
> previous ones.
>
> So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for
> threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It
> turned out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass
> there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We
> used 5/16" x 2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the
> wood.
>
> I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the
> surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been
> better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  Take it off
> and drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The fiberglass
> layer must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will
> start cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes.
>
> Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle
> and mark the rear ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the
> washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.
>
> Worked like a charm for us newbies.
>
> Ron & Lisa
>
> On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  wrote:
>
> Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do
> listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any
> access under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been
> suggested.  Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.
> Is there anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
>
> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> C&C 37
>
> ___
>
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List awards

[Dennis C.]

When I was awards chair for a major regatta, I went to a Mikasa store in an 
outlet mall.  Caught a bunch of nice glassware on closeout at 60% off.  Found 
styles that had large, medium and small bowls, etc.  Had trophy shop make 
engraved labels and stuck them on.  Was relatively cheap.

As a boatowner, I like glass trophies.  I hate silver trophies.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: "wwadjo...@aol.com" 
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 10:51 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List awards
> 
>
>
>Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term) 
>sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.
>
>
>Bill Waker
>Evening Star
>C & C 36
>Pentwater, Mi
>
>
>Sent from my HTC
>
>- Reply message -
>From: "Ron Kaye" 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>Subject: Stus-List head replacement
>Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM
>
>Bev and Bob,  We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a 
>replacement Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit 
>"all years" models.   It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt 
>connection.  Blah!  So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West. Two 
>of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke off 
>when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
>ones. So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
>threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It 
>turned out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass there. 
>The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We used 5/16" 
>x 2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the wood.  I cut 
>the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the surrounding 
>glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder
 would have been better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  
Take it off and drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The 
fiberglass layer must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it 
will start cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes.   Set the head in 
place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle and mark the rear 
ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the washers and a thin bead 
if silicone sealant under the base.Worked like a charm for us newbies.  Ron 
& Lisa   On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  
wrote: > Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access 
under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.  
Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there 
anything under there I need to worry
 about damaging?  Thanks.
>  
> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
> C&C 37
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>___
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>
>
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Stus-List boat buying

[Chuck S]

Shopping for a boat may seem daunting and nerve racking, but try to make it a 
fun experience. Take time and travel to sailing meccas that may be in your 
future cruising plans. I went to Newport and Annapolis. You might try Toronto 
or other cities nearby that have many sailboats, and great waterfront 
restaurants to discuss the top candidates. You can imagine owning any boat 
until you sign papers. Then you have nothing but anxiety about if you made the 
right decision, and endless bills unless you can trailer the boat home. Winter 
storage, slip fees, insurance, bottom paint, etc. Sorry, but true, and somehow 
it's all worth it. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: "Stevan Plavsa"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2013 11:36:04 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat 


Keep looking and don't settle. I got my 32 for 18k, that's right in your 
ballpark. I was originally looking for 27s and 29s but I didn't find any that 
were reasonably priced or even in reasonable shape. I went to look at the 32 on 
a whim because it was the closest boat to me, and a broker boat no less .. 
something I'de been avoiding up to that point. I had driven to NY to look at 
boats on the south shore of Lake Ontario, not a complete waste of time because 
it helped me compare and understand the market better. 


And you know what? The 32, literally 5 minutes from my house, was easily in way 
better shape than any of the boats I'de looked at up to that point. I was sold 
on it instantly. It was more boat than I hoped for and it was in reach. Life is 
short and I can be pretty impulsive so I made an offer, had it surveyed and 
bought the boat. I think the PO was happy to get the 18k and I think he was 
happy to deal with me, we got along great. Some other guy was in line before me 
but he was a huge hassle for the seller. I lucked out, the PO was a great guy. 


I don't race so my requirements may be different than yours. My boat is a 
freshwater boat and it surveyed well. The sails were worn out and I just spent 
$1600 (shipping in!) all told on a genoa from Rolly Tasker, it's a great sail 
and an incredible value. The main is still usable and will be for a couple of 
years yet. Canvas is still good, not great, but doesn't need replacing.  
but I have spent a lot. I've spent money refurbishing the 
head/tanks/freshwater/wiring/instruments/stereo/solar and the list goes on. A 
boat that has had that stuff done is worth more, but then, if you do it 
yourself it's really YOUR boat. My boat is MY boat! I EARNED it because I fixed 
the shit out of it! 




Steve 
Suhana, C&C 32 
Toronto 












On Thu, Aug 1, 2013 at 7:50 PM, Knowles Rich < r...@sailpower.ca > wrote: 


How about having a peek at my LF 38 just to get another picture? 

Rich Knowles 
Indigo. LF 38 
Halifax NS 




On 2013-08-01, at 20:27, "Dr. Mark Bodnar" < drbod...@accesswave.ca > wrote: 

> 
> Thanks for all the comments. 
> 
> Danny - Yes - I'm aware the "good condition" sails and the "year or 2" left 
> in the canvas are pointing at need for replacement before long. Guy selling 
> the boat seems pretty straight, so I don't think he's over valuing the sails 
> and they are totally shot. 
> As for the Nada value and the price - it is my understanding the NADA value 
> is US based, boats locally list for a lot more than that. Not much I can do 
> other than buy a boat in the US and ship/sail it back. As Mike noted - the 
> cost of that adds up quickly. Rough quote to ship a 30 back from NY was over 
> $6000 by land. I could have it sailed back for $2000, but I'd still have the 
> expense of going down to look and having to pay for required repairs at a 
> unfamiliar yard before it could sail home. 
> 
> Bob's example of a good condition 29 for $13500 - plus the cradle ends up 
> being ~$15500. Then add the cost of getting it home (either I take a week off 
> work or I pay to have it sailed back) - total $17-18000. He likely has better 
> sails but the price is pretty close in the end. 
> 
> In this case the boat has a pretty good trailer - value of ~ $2000, saving me 
> the cost of buying a cradle. Another 29-2 for sale locally is listed at 
> $26000 with racing sails. 30's listed for $22-3 (at the cheaper end they 
> are in rough shape, needing new sails and deck work). 
> 
> Having looked at this boat I think I'd be happy to get it for $17000 - but I 
> doubt he'll sell it for that. Maybe I'm off in my value because all the boat 
> prices are listed so high and the actual selling prices are much lower. 
> 
> Stevan - I had my eye on a nice 32 - but it sold (apparently in brilliant 
> shape and sold for ~$3). I'd consider anything from a 29 to a 33. Still 
> trying to keep costs down (total purchase and up-keep) while finding a boat 
> big enough to enjoy with the kids. 29 is the smallest I think that could 
> work. When I was on a 33 2weeks ago it seemed huge inside, yet not muc

Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer

[wwadjo...@aol.com]

Must be the age of our boars.  Just replace head port on my 1981 36' this 
spring.  Mine was through bolted, so removal easy.  Measured rough opening, 
went on Defender.com, got replacement Beckson port which was identical in size 
to original. Even all the holes matched up.  Mfgr recommends only silicone to 
bed.  Done easily.  Since on slight slope of cabin trunk I went with self 
draining.  Depending on heel angle, it does.   
Bill Walker
1981 C&C 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Knowles Rich" 
To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2013 12:26 PM

Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 

RIch


On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
> hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the deminsions 
> of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected to the fixed 
> part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 1/4". 
> Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
> I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.

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Re: Stus-List ?awards

[Bill Coleman]

To build on this, an idea, I happened to notice an air brush(sand brush) at 
Harbor Freight, along with a bag of fine abrasive used for etching glass. 
Looked simple, exacto out your design, tape it on the glass and blow the 
abrasive on  it.  Like a tiny sandblaster.  Maybe.  

Let us know if it works, but don’t yell at me if it doesn’t !

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 animated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 12:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List ?awards

 

When I was awards chair for a major regatta, I went to a Mikasa store in an 
outlet mall.  Caught a bunch of nice glassware on closeout at 60% off.  Found 
styles that had large, medium and small bowls, etc.  Had trophy shop make 
engraved labels and stuck them on.  Was relatively cheap.

As a boatowner, I like glass trophies.  I hate silver trophies.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: "wwadjo...@aol.com" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List awards

 

Ok guys, how about some ideas for inexpensive ( I know that is relative term) 
sailing awards.  Our budget just got axed at the yacht club.

 

Bill Waker

Evening Star

C & C 36

Pentwater, Mi

 

Sent from my HTC

 

- Reply message -
From: "Ron Kaye" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List head replacement
Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 10:59 AM

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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Ronald B. Frerker]

Dennis,
Do you have the link for the 24?  My wife thinks we should step down; I'm not 
so sure. I love my 30, find it quite roomy and sails just like you think it 
should; I believe the phrase is "good reflexes."
I've quelled the murmurings a bit by going to a 140% genoa instead of the 160 
when it's just two of us.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30
STL




 From: Dennis C. 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
 


More on owner pricing:  

Here's a 29-2 listed for $39,900:  


One for $14,500:  

A 30 for $11,900:  

Saw a 24 for $2200.

Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer

[Mike Brannon]

Bill,   do you remember which one you ordered?   

Mike  

Virginia Lee
1979 C&C 36 CB

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 2, 2013, at 13:31, "wwadjo...@aol.com"  wrote:

> Must be the age of our boars.  Just replace head port on my 1981 36' this 
> spring.  Mine was through bolted, so removal easy.  Measured rough opening, 
> went on Defender.com, got replacement Beckson port which was identical in 
> size to original. Even all the holes matched up.  Mfgr recommends only 
> silicone to bed.  Done easily.  Since on slight slope of cabin trunk I went 
> with self draining.  Depending on heel angle, it does.   
> Bill Walker
> 1981 C&C 36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC
> 
> - Reply message -
> From: "Knowles Rich" 
> To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
> Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2013 12:26 PM
> 
> Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
> acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 
> 
> RIch
> 
> 
> On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> > The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
> > hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the 
> > deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected 
> > to the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 
> > 1/4". 
> > Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
> > I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Gary Nylander]

Ron, there is a 24 at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum listed for $3500. It 
was donated, has a full complement of equipment, a four stroke outboard, decent 
sails, spinnaker gear, etc. I sailed it across the Chesapeake and it performs 
well. Needs some cosmetics. It will be auctioned off over Labor Day (US) 
weekend and may not bring that much. Look it up on CBMM.org under donated 
boats. You can buy it earlier if you want to.

The owner got too old and his family ushered him off to a care facility. He 
left everything on the boat.

I may be able to get additional pictures.

Gary Nylander
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ronald B. Frerker 
  To: Dennis C. ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 3:43 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat


  Dennis,
  Do you have the link for the 24?  My wife thinks we should step down; I'm not 
so sure. I love my 30, find it quite roomy and sails just like you think it 
should; I believe the phrase is "good reflexes."
  I've quelled the murmurings a bit by going to a 140% genoa instead of the 160 
when it's just two of us.
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  C&C 30
  STL





--
  From: Dennis C. 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
  Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 8:16 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat



  More on owner pricing:  

  Here's a 29-2 listed for $39,900:  


  One for $14,500:  

  A 30 for $11,900:  

  Saw a 24 for $2200.

  Dennis C.


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Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer

[wwadjo...@aol.com]

Mike, 
I have looked everywhere for paper work but it must be in Ohio at my home.  
Won't be back until October. 
But, if you can pull old port, measure length and height, defender site has 
actual port measurements on there. That's what I did.  Was dumb luck the holes 
all matched up.  
I'll keep looking.  
Bill

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Mike Brannon" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2013 4:00 PM

Bill,   do you remember which one you ordered?   

Mike  

Virginia Lee
1979 C&C 36 CB

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 2, 2013, at 13:31, "wwadjo...@aol.com"  wrote:

> Must be the age of our boars.  Just replace head port on my 1981 36' this 
> spring.  Mine was through bolted, so removal easy.  Measured rough opening, 
> went on Defender.com, got replacement Beckson port which was identical in 
> size to original. Even all the holes matched up.  Mfgr recommends only 
> silicone to bed.  Done easily.  Since on slight slope of cabin trunk I went 
> with self draining.  Depending on heel angle, it does.   
> Bill Walker
> 1981 C&C 36
> Pentwater, Mi
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC
> 
> - Reply message -
> From: "Knowles Rich" 
> To: "kenhea...@gmail.com" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer
> Date: Thu, Aug 1, 2013 12:26 PM
> 
> Depending on exactly where it is broken, a plastic supplier can supply an 
> acrylic bonding cement that might well repair it easily. 
> 
> RIch
> 
> 
> On 2013-08-01, at 12:51, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> > The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is 
> > hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the 
> > deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected 
> > to the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 
> > 1/4". 
> > Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
> > I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.
> 
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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[dwight veinot]

Ron
I hope you stay with your 30...hard to beat what it offers for sailing
performance and cruiseability...the 24 was nice for my second boat way back
when but if I already had a 30 like you do no way would I go back


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 4:43 PM, Ronald B. Frerker wrote:

> Dennis,
> Do you have the link for the 24?  My wife thinks we should step down; I'm
> not so sure. I love my 30, find it quite roomy and sails just like you
> think it should; I believe the phrase is "good reflexes."
> I've quelled the murmurings a bit by going to a 140% genoa instead of the
> 160 when it's just two of us.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30
> STL
>
>
>   --
>  *From:* Dennis C. 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Sent:* Friday, August 2, 2013 8:16 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Another boat
>
> More on owner pricing:
>
> Here's a 29-2 listed for $39,900:  <
> http://sailingtexas.com/201301/scc29105.html>
>
> One for $14,500:  
>
> A 30 for $11,900:  
>
> Saw a 24 for $2200.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Dennis C.]

24 was on sailingtexas.com.  Go there, use control F to bring up search field. 
Enter "C&C" in field, hit next. You'll find it towards the bottom. 

I'm walking piers in Biloxi while the admiral hits the slots. Just walked past 
a nice 24 registered in Guatemala, C.A. 

Dennis

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 2, 2013, at 3:17 PM, dwight veinot  wrote:

> Ron
> I hope you stay with your 30...hard to beat what it offers for sailing 
> performance and cruiseability...the 24 was nice for my second boat way back 
> when but if I already had a 30 like you do no way would I go back
> 
> 
> On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 4:43 PM, Ronald B. Frerker  wrote:
>> Dennis,
>> Do you have the link for the 24?  My wife thinks we should step down; I'm 
>> not so sure. I love my 30, find it quite roomy and sails just like you think 
>> it should; I believe the phrase is "good reflexes."
>> I've quelled the murmurings a bit by going to a 140% genoa instead of the 
>> 160 when it's just two of us.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C&C 30
>> STL
>> 
>> 
>> From: Dennis C. 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>> Sent: Friday, August 2, 2013 8:16 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
>> 
>> More on owner pricing:  
>> 
>> Here's a 29-2 listed for $39,900:  
>> 
>> 
>> One for $14,500:  
>> 
>> A 30 for $11,900:  
>> 
>> Saw a 24 for $2200.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> ___
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Rick Brass]

I wouldn't factor the cost of a cradle into the deal. As a matter of
practicality, why do you need one?

Does the yard where you would lay up the boat for the winter give you a
substantial discount for not using their cradle or stands? Do you belong to
a club that requires you to provide a cradle or stands (my club in Philly
did require this)? 

If you need them, 6 new stands will be less than half the cost of a new
cradle - plus they are a lot easier to move and to store than a cradle. And
you can frequently find used ones for even less.

When I needed stands or a cradle to store my 25 (at the club I joined in
Philly) I bought a used shipping cradle from a large boat dealer. It was
half the cost of new stands, and worked just fine. If I ever do sell my 25,
the cradle will be included with the boat - it hasn't been used in over a
decade and there is no market to sell one here in the south.

Now a trailer does make some sense if you plan to store the boat at home
over the winter to save yard fees - and you have a truck big enough to pull
a 10,000 pound boat and trailer. But do a little research before you plan on
doing that. In one city where I lived, it was OK to store a boat or RV (or
empty trailer) in your drive, but it had to be behind a line extended out
from the front wall of the house (and I did not have a suitable concrete pad
next to the house on which to put the boat I had, so it ended up in a yard
anyway).

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat

Cradle alone is 1500.  



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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Graham Collins]

At Mark's club (and mine) we do not have a travel lift.  So the options 
are either:

1) use jackstands and go in/out with the big crane
2) buy a cradle, and be able to move with the cradle lift and launch 
with the club crane


You have to remember also that where we are a bit further north than you 
we end up having our boats out of the water about half the year 
normally.  Launch in early May, haul in October.  So a solid cradle is 
an asset.


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-08-02 8:11 PM, Rick Brass wrote:

I wouldn't factor the cost of a cradle into the deal. As a matter of
practicality, why do you need one?

Does the yard where you would lay up the boat for the winter give you a
substantial discount for not using their cradle or stands? Do you belong to
a club that requires you to provide a cradle or stands (my club in Philly
did require this)?

If you need them, 6 new stands will be less than half the cost of a new
cradle - plus they are a lot easier to move and to store than a cradle. And
you can frequently find used ones for even less.

When I needed stands or a cradle to store my 25 (at the club I joined in
Philly) I bought a used shipping cradle from a large boat dealer. It was
half the cost of new stands, and worked just fine. If I ever do sell my 25,
the cradle will be included with the boat - it hasn't been used in over a
decade and there is no market to sell one here in the south.

Now a trailer does make some sense if you plan to store the boat at home
over the winter to save yard fees - and you have a truck big enough to pull
a 10,000 pound boat and trailer. But do a little research before you plan on
doing that. In one city where I lived, it was OK to store a boat or RV (or
empty trailer) in your drive, but it had to be behind a line extended out
from the front wall of the house (and I did not have a suitable concrete pad
next to the house on which to put the boat I had, so it ended up in a yard
anyway).

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 8:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat

Cradle alone is 1500.



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Re: Stus-List head replacement

[Tim Goodyear]

Ron, what head did you go with?  I am getting fed up with replacing pump 
components on ours...

Thanks,

Tim
Mojito
C&C 35-3
Branford, CT

On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:59 AM, Ron Kaye  wrote:

> Bev and Bob, 
> 
> We just did this on our 35/3 last weekend.  We originally got a replacement 
> Jabsco pump to put on the existing bowl - it was supposed to fit "all years" 
> models.  
> 
> It didn't. Four bolt attachment to a three bolt connection.  Blah! 
> 
> So we simply got an entire new Jabsco from West.
> 
> Two of the existing mounting bolts (I believe they were "hanger bolts") broke 
> off when taking off the old head.  The new base did not fit over the previous 
> ones.
> 
> So then we did what you did and tried to find access from underneath for 
> threaded bolts.  Not available.  Talked to a guy I know with a 35/1.  It 
> turned out to be simple deal:  There is solid wood infer the fiberglass 
> there. The answer is to use SS lag screws and washers.  You need four.  We 
> used 5/16" x 2".  West Marine.  Just screw them through the glass into the 
> wood. 
> 
> I cut the two old hangar bolts off with a hack saw (try not to saw the 
> surrounding glass - this is the hardest part - a grinder would have been 
> better).  Set the new base on and marked two holes in front.  Take it off and 
> drill a smaller hole as you would for a wood screw.  The fiberglass layer 
> must be bored out to the diameter of the screw (5/16") or it will start 
> cracking. So do that just at the top of the holes.  
> 
> Set the head in place and ratchet down the front two until it can't wiggle 
> and mark the rear ones.  Remove, repeat the drilling and don't forget the 
> washers and a thin bead if silicone sealant under the base.   
> 
> Worked like a charm for us newbies. 
> 
> Ron & Lisa  
> 
> On Aug 2, 2013, at 10:12 AM, "broo...@aol.com"  wrote:
> 
>> Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do 
>> listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access 
>> under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested. 
>>  Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there 
>> anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.
>>  
>> Bev Genader Bob Morgan
>> C&C 37
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Re: Stus-List head replacement

[Rick Brass]

The heads on both of my mid-70s C&Cs were installed with ¼” or 5/16ths”
stainless hanger bolts. A hanger bolt is sort of like a threaded rod that is
threaded like a machine screw (bolt) on one end and like a lag screw on the
other. The material under the platform on which the head sits is ¾” plywood,
and there is no access to the bottom side without major surgery and a lot of
hassle.

 

When I replaced the head on the 25, the pattern of the existing 4 studs
(hanger bolts) did not match the pattern needed by the flange of the new
head. I removed 3 of the 4 existing studs with a pair of vice grips, marked
the location of the new holes and drilled 3 pilot holes, and reinstalled the
same studs (hanger bolts) in the new pattern. Took maybe 30 minutes to move
the studs and squirt some Boat Life into the old holes to seal them.

 

If you damage one of the hanger bolts, or if you just want to use new ones,
they cost about $.50 each at Fastenall, or your local Lowes may have them
(although I don’t know that all Lowes stores stock as much stainless as my
local store does.)

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
broo...@aol.com
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List head replacement

 

Plan to replace CW with a Jabsco Twist and Lock.   What suggestions do
listers have for bolting this in place. There does not seem to be any access
under the platform the current head is on. Toggle bolts have been suggested.
Or creating an inspection port for placement of nuts/washers.  Is there
anything under there I need to worry about damaging?  Thanks.

 

Bev Genader Bob Morgan

C&C 37

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Re: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer

[Rick Brass]

Tom;

 

I almost guarantee that the portlights on Frolic were made by Fuller Brush
Company. They still  supply complete portlights and service parts for owners
of older boats. Under separate cover I will send you a parts list, specs,
and price list.

 

Contact the following very helpful individual by phone or e-mail and she can
answer questions and take your order.

 

Jill Chambers
Fuller Industries LLC
Custom Products Division
800-227-2961 Ext 328
620-793-4522 Fax
jchamb...@fullerind.com

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of TOM
VINCENT
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 4:08 PM
To: C&C Forum
Subject: Stus-List Opening port manufacturer

 

The opening port on my 1979 C&C 36 has a broken hatch at the point that is
hinged to the fixed part of the port. The port is plastic with the
deminsions of 4 7/8" X 15", there are two hinge points that are connected to
the fixed part of the port and the outside measurement of them is 9 1/4". 
Anyone with a thought of repair or replacement, please advise. 
I do not believe that it was produced by Atkins Hoyle.

Tom Vincent
Frolic II 
Chesapeake City, MD

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Re: Stus-List Jake

[Jake Brodersen]

Gary,

 

Spinsheet did mention that we were "dressed for success".  It all came true.
The admiral is very particular about looking good on the race course, no
matter how we sail.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 9:52 AM
To: CandC List
Subject: Stus-List Jake

 

There's a great picture of Jake and his crew gracing Midnight Mistress on
page 8 of the new SpinSheet blurb. Nice shirts, Jake. Did you get the ''best
dressed" award along with your first in class?

 

Gary

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Re: Stus-List Another boat

[Rick Brass]

May thru October was about the same as Michigan, and Mid-April to
mid-October was the norm in Philly. 

I much prefer it down here when you only haul for maintenance or when you
need a bottom job - about every 3 or 4 years with good bottom paint.

The club I belonged to in Philly had an old travel lift trailer pulled by an
even older Oshkosh or Owatonna spotter truck. Most folks owned their own
jack stands, I purchased a cradle because a used shipping cradle was less
expensive than new stands - but it was a PITA to move around.

By "cradle lift" I presume you mean a big forklift capable of picking up
cradle and boat from the side? I am only familiar with the term as a type of
boat lift used to lift a boat out of the water at a dock or in a boat house.

In so far as a perception that a cradle is superior to stands, I can only
say that my 38 has weathered direct impacts from Hurricanes Isobel and Irene
( and a couple of nor'easters when it was out for refit for well over a
year) on 6 stands - though I personally made sure the stands were chained
together and sitting on largeish squares of 1/2" plywood intended to keep
the gravel under the stands from getting washed away by high water.


Rick Brass
Washington, NC




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Collins
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 7:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat

At Mark's club (and mine) we do not have a travel lift.  So the options are
either:
1) use jackstands and go in/out with the big crane
2) buy a cradle, and be able to move with the cradle lift and launch with
the club crane

You have to remember also that where we are a bit further north than you we
end up having our boats out of the water about half the year normally.
Launch in early May, haul in October.  So a solid cradle is an asset.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2013-08-02 8:11 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
> I wouldn't factor the cost of a cradle into the deal. As a matter of 
> practicality, why do you need one?
>
> Does the yard where you would lay up the boat for the winter give you 
> a substantial discount for not using their cradle or stands? Do you 
> belong to a club that requires you to provide a cradle or stands (my 
> club in Philly did require this)?
>
> If you need them, 6 new stands will be less than half the cost of a 
> new cradle - plus they are a lot easier to move and to store than a 
> cradle. And you can frequently find used ones for even less.
>
> When I needed stands or a cradle to store my 25 (at the club I joined 
> in
> Philly) I bought a used shipping cradle from a large boat dealer. It 
> was half the cost of new stands, and worked just fine. If I ever do 
> sell my 25, the cradle will be included with the boat - it hasn't been 
> used in over a decade and there is no market to sell one here in the
south.
>
> Now a trailer does make some sense if you plan to store the boat at 
> home over the winter to save yard fees - and you have a truck big 
> enough to pull a 10,000 pound boat and trailer. But do a little 
> research before you plan on doing that. In one city where I lived, it 
> was OK to store a boat or RV (or empty trailer) in your drive, but it 
> had to be behind a line extended out from the front wall of the house 
> (and I did not have a suitable concrete pad next to the house on which 
> to put the boat I had, so it ended up in a yard anyway).
>
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> Hoyt, Mike
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2013 8:49 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Another boat
>
> Cradle alone is 1500.
>
>
>
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>
>


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