Re: Stus-List hot water heater

2015-12-23 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Hi Mike!  Welcome to the list.  My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
the I moved up to a c designed Viking 33.

Ed is right!  You're going to love the c 34!  The power in the sails is 
probably the first that will impress you!  Congratulations on your new boat!

As for the hot water, I know a guy that only got hot water from a heat 
exchanger (just like the fresh water cooling one)  it saved him a ton of space 
but the engine needed to be warm to get warm water.  It's sort of an 
alternative to the hot water tank system and you could always add a tank later 
on.

Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 10:54 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.
>
> The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to 
> the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
> equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.
>
> Ed
> Briarpatch C 34 1981
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>>
>> Mike here...
>>  
>> Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner 
>> was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.
>>  
>> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from 
>> a 22' OdayMH..
>>  
>> I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all 
>> very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was 
>> hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess 
>> around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been 
>> discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 
>> around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the 
>> mast are set for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard
>>  
>> My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if 
>> the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine 
>> (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling 
>> system.gonna be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are 
>> under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...
>>  
>> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Mike
>> 1978 34' Skywalker
>> Southold, NY
>>  
>>  
>>  
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Re: Stus-List Folding props

2015-12-23 Thread Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
A bit late to this thread but again, but another chuckle when recognizing a 
very similar experience.

As Martin said about those years in the late 70’s, my friend Charlie and I were 
asked to help out new owners of a 3/4 ton IOR boat of which I can’t remember 
the name, designer or builder. It was black.

Anyway, neither the owners nor their crew had spent much time on a race boat. 
Charlie and I had not much more experience but somehow were designated the 
“experts.” The race went badly for us. Very, very badly. Amateurs vs Pros. As 
Charlie said, “the only thing missing with this circus is the tent covering 
it…”.

The one thing that I did know moderately well was how to do was dock a boat. 
Especially with a folding prop. So we’re on the way back to the slip, alcoholic 
beverages in abundance and so forth. I was at the tiller and telling one of the 
owners that I was going to back the boat into its slip when we got back to the 
marina. The owner said that he liked to dock bow-in and that he would take the 
helm. Fine by me. 

So there we were coming into the slip at flank speed. I mentioned that maybe he 
might want to slow her down a bit but he said he had done this before and would 
apply full reverse as needed. As many have found out, full reverse works well. 
If given enough time and distance. Neither of which we had in any measurable 
amount when he put it in reverse gear and raised the throttle.

The boat hit so hard the bow rode two feet up that dock with appropriately 
expense crunching sounds. And back down. Charlie and I grabbed our kit and took 
off for Marmadukes hoping no-one we knew saw us.

Never saw those guys race that boat again, either…

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Dec 22, 2015, at 4:47 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > The time it takes between putting her into reverse and actually moving 
> > backward with flow over the rudder is what can take several seconds with a 
> > folder… If other things are happening nearby (current, wind, pilings, 
> > etc.), these few seconds can seem like a very long time!.
>  
>  
> Back in the mid 70’s I was crewing on a C 39.  The local rock star 
> sailmaker was onboard for an event on Lake Washington related to Seattle 
> Yacht Club’s Opening Day parade.  A few adult beverages may have been 
> consumed in the process of crossing the lake to join a party at another 
> competitor’s lake front home.
>  
> When it was pointed out to the rock star he was pointing the 39’s bow into a 
> covered slip, he quickly hit reverse (A4 engine, Martec folding prop) and 
> added throttle.  With the standard delay in actually retarding the vessel’s 
> forward motion the 39’s forestay (Stearn’s twin stay IIRC) made a noticeable 
> twanging sound as it hit the metal roof over the slip.
>  
> It was hard to find the rock star at the party that afternoon.  Years later 
> that rock star became Calypso’s insurance agent.  I don’t think he ever 
> forgot how long it takes to reverse direction with a folding prop.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Charlie Nelson via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 12:20 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Folding props
>  
> I was not referring to feathering props. As I understand them, they are 
> designed to be about equal in forward or reverse.
> My former Max-Prop 3 blade feathering prop was excellent and relatively 
> quickly got the boat going in reverse.
>  
> Any geared folding 2-blade prop will get a boat moving in reverse--just not 
> very efficiently--especially if it is optimized for forward motion
> and minimum drag when folded.
>  
> The time it takes between putting her into reverse and actually moving 
> backward with flow over the rudder is what can take several seconds with a 
> folder..
>  
> If other things are happening nearby (current, wind, pilings, etc.), these 
> few seconds can seem like a very long time!.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>  
> cenel...@aol.com 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment Landfall 38

2015-12-23 Thread Dreuge via CnC-List 
Maybe other LF38 owners could confirm, but all other LF38 anchor locker lid 
attachments I have seen photos of use SS strap hinges.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 9:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2015 22:11:48 -0400
> From: Graham Collins  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
> 
> My anchor locker and cockpit lockers are piano hinged, factory original.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> 
> On 2015-12-22 9:24 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> I don?t think the piano hinges on your anchor locker are original C 
>>  I have 6? SS strap hinges which are bolted through the cover and the 
>> deck.  I replaced mine old broken hinges with new ones, overfilling 
>> the old holes with thickened epoxy and re-drilling as typically 
>> suggested.  No problems with leaks.  Here?s a link to the hinge: 
>> http://www.marinepartdepot.com/hedustststhi2.html 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Most paints and barrier coats call for 80 grit random orbital to get the
right tooth.  This is as much for your satisfaction as it is for the
manufacturer's guarantee.  That doesn't mean that the paint won't stick if
you don't do this.  I'm confident that the engineers at the paint lab don't
perform a numerous paint adherence experiments with each of their products
to determine all of the possible ways a customer could improperly apply
their product.

This is also the time to discuss a barrier coat if it hasn't been already.
As already shared here before, IMO if the bottom isn't blistering after 30
years without a barrier coat then you may simply be spending money which
doesn't need spent.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Dec 23, 2015 8:40 AM, "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello guys,
>
> I just heard from the yard.  they walnut strip the bottom.  He told me it
> was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you very
> much!)!  he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the
> hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut
> blasting.  I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand
> the gelcoat to get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has
> something to stick to.
>
> He said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds
> maybe 2 man days to the labor.
>
> Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic?  I mean if they
> say it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had not been
> done, why would the bottom paint not have failed?
>
>
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

2015-12-23 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
There is a used Martec on Annapolis Craigslist. No relationship to the
seller.
Joel

On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, S Thomas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agree also.
> I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade
> geared Gori and got better "traction" in reverse, due I think to the
> increased surface area.
>
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>
> C MKI
> Merritt Island, FL
>
> - Original Message - From: "ahycrace--- via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: 
> Cc: 
> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 20:47
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4
>
>
> I agree I have a max prop 2 blade and reverse is just incredible it's like
>> a tug boat is backing you up.
>>
>> Gary Kolc
>> 1976 38' MKII
>> Liberty
>>  Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
>>
>>>  "No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
>>> geared one so that you can be sure that it opened."
>>>
>>> Have to disagree with this statement. My 35-III with a two blade
>>> Max-prop goes very well in reverse. In fact in tight situations I often
>>> prefer to extract myself in reverse!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jonathan
>>> Indigo C 35III
>>> SOUTHPORT CT
>>>
>>> > On Dec 22, 2015, at 10:10, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
>>> > geared one so that you can be sure that it opened.
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>
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>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Hello guys, I just heard from the yard.  they walnut strip the bottom.  He told 
me it was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you 
very much!)!  he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the 
hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut blasting. 
 I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand the gelcoat to 
get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has something to stick to. He 
said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds maybe 2 man 
days to the labor. Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic?  I 
mean if they say it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had 
not been done, why would the bottom paint not have failed?  DannyT40Rum Runner 
IVMattapoisett, MA___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
Danny,

 

I had my hull soda blasted a couple years back.  The surface needed nothing
more than a wipe down before I applied a barrier coat.  The blasting left a
finish with plenty of tooth for the barrier coat to adhere.  Sanding the
hull should not be needed, but if you hull is as shiny as you say, a light
sanding could be called for.  It's a tough call to make without seeing the
boat.  You definitely don't want to see any gloss.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 08:38
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

 

Hello guys,

 

I just heard from the yard.  they walnut strip the bottom.  He told me it
was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you very
much!)!  he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the
hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut
blasting.  I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand
the gelcoat to get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has
something to stick to.

 

He said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds maybe
2 man days to the labor.

 

Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic?  I mean if they say
it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had not been done,
why would the bottom paint not have failed?

 

 

Danny

T40

Rum Runner IV

Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment

2015-12-23 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges.  So, in 1983 
that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except 
> on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. 
> I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard. 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
> 
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
> 
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid 
> attachment. 
> 
> C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they 
> thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid 
> hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several 
> screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks 
> like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood 
> core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, 
> and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
> 
> Pictures: 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing
> 
> Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's 
> cored, or am I on the crazy pills?  
> 
> The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is about 
> 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the toe rail. 
> Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant differences, so I think 
> the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems like if they had made the 
> anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't have had to screw in to 
> coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick enough to fit the screws. 
> Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7 
> days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and 
> redrill.
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Danny
Are you adding barrier coat?

I'd start by reading the directions on the can.  Sounds like a waste of
time to me.

Joel

On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello guys,
>
> I just heard from the yard.  they walnut strip the bottom.  He told me it
> was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you very
> much!)!  he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the
> hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut
> blasting.  I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand
> the gelcoat to get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has
> something to stick to.
>
> He said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds
> maybe 2 man days to the labor.
>
> Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic?  I mean if they
> say it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had not been
> done, why would the bottom paint not have failed?
>
>
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
One advantage to adding a barrier coat even if there are no blisters, is 
that you apply the first coat of bottom paint while the barrier is not 
completely set, and you get a chemical as well as a mechanical bond. 
This will improve subsequent bottom paint adhesion far into the future. 
Barrier coat adheres a lot better to gelcoat than any bottom paint, 
regardless of surface prep.


Bill Bina

On 12/23/2015 9:47 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Danny,

Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which 
yard?  I’m having my “new” 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the 
North Shore of Mass to the South Coast in early January and the bottom 
paint is flaking off in chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat 
underneath in most places.  I would say that the paint over shiny gel 
coat method was not terribly effective for adhesion.


Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he 
tells me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom 
that takes a significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards 
to allow bottom paint go on nice and smooth.  Perhaps he was also 
implying that the boat should have a barrier coat added as well… 
either way, with soda blasting and subsequent bottom prep, we were 
talking  in excess of $5000.


With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint as 
possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum 
attachment, leaving just enough “tooth” on the gel coat hull surface 
to repaint.  It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard 
and build my upper body strength at the same time!


However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if 
it is less invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically 
want to start with a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint.   Would 
love to hear from others that have used the walnut shell method and 
what they’ve done to prep afterwards.


Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1




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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

2015-12-23 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
I hear ya!  I upgraded again in October and I'm in the save situation, waiting 
for spring...

Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 23, 2015 8:12 AM, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Thanks Dan!
>  
> The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior 
> completely last winter including all new bulkheads, teak dinette, electric, 
> watermay sell it eventually or give it to one of my kids...
>  
> I appreciate the input, and I can hardly wait to get the 34 back in the 
> water.what a bummer having to wait all winter.
>  
> mike
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: djhaughey 
> Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 6:36 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater
>
> Hi Mike! Welcome to the list. My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
> the I moved up to a c designed Viking 33. Ed is right! You're going to love 
> the c 34! The power in the sails is probably the first that will impress 
> you! Congratulations on your new boat! As for the hot water, I know a guy 
> that only got hot water from a heat exchanger (just like the fresh water 
> cooling one) it saved him a ton of space but the engine needed to be warm to 
> get warm water. It's sort of an alternative to the hot water tank system and 
> you could always add a tank later on. Danny MassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 
> 10:54 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List  wrote: > > Mike, 
> > > Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail. > > The 
> hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to the 
> right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
> equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower. > > Ed > 
> Briarpatch C 34 1981 > New Orleans, La. > > On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, 
> Headgorilla via CnC-List  wrote: >> >> Mike here... >> 
>   >> Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous 
> owner was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat. >>   >> 
> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from a 
> 22' OdayMH.. >>   >> I have been following the discussions that you guys 
> are having and it is all very, very educationaland since I bought the 
> boat on the day it was hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I 
> haven't been able to mess around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI 
> since you guys have been discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and 
> everything leads back to the 8 around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on 
> cockpit combing), the two by the mast are set for the babystay track and one 
> for the spinnaker halyard >>   >> My question..the Admiral needs hot 
> water for her shower..looks as if the best and only place for it is on 
> the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access 
> to the fresh water cooling system.gonna be some piping to do since the 
> water tank and pump are under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the 
> starboard... >>   >> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it? 
> >> >> Thanks, >>   >> Mike >> 1978 34' Skywalker >> Southold, NY >>   >>   >> 
>   ___ Email address: 
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

2015-12-23 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List 

Agree also.
I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade 
geared Gori and got better "traction" in reverse, due I think to the 
increased surface area.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C MKI
Merritt Island, FL

- Original Message - 
From: "ahycrace--- via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 20:47
Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4


I agree I have a max prop 2 blade and reverse is just incredible it's like 
a tug boat is backing you up.


Gary Kolc
1976 38' MKII
Liberty
 Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
 "No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a 
geared one so that you can be sure that it opened."


Have to disagree with this statement. My 35-III with a two blade Max-prop 
goes very well in reverse. In fact in tight situations I often prefer to 
extract myself in reverse!


--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Dec 22, 2015, at 10:10, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:

>
> No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a 
> geared one so that you can be sure that it opened.


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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Hi Danny,

Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which yard?  I'm
having my "new" 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the North Shore of Mass
to the South Coast in early January and the bottom paint is flaking off in
chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat underneath in most places.  I
would say that the paint over shiny gel coat method was not terribly
effective for adhesion.

  Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he tells
me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom that takes
a significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards to allow bottom
paint go on nice and smooth.  Perhaps he was also implying that the boat
should have a barrier coat added as well. either way, with soda blasting and
subsequent bottom prep, we were talking  in excess of $5000.

  With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint as
possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum
attachment, leaving just enough "tooth" on the gel coat hull surface to
repaint.  It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard and build
my upper body strength at the same time!

However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if it is
less invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically want to
start with a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint.   Would love to hear
from others that have used the walnut shell method and what they've done to
prep afterwards.

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

 

S/V Orion

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

 

Hello guys,

 

I just heard from the yard.  they walnut strip the bottom.  He told me it
was the best looking bottom he'd seen in a long time (well, thank you very
much!)!  he even said the original coat of paint was still on it and the
hull was shiny as the day it came out of the factory after the walnut
blasting.  I'm impressed by this in that, the general consensus is to sand
the gelcoat to get the shine and any wax off so the bottom paint has
something to stick to.

 

He said they need to sand before doing the bottom coatings which adds maybe
2 man days to the labor.

 

Do you guys have any insights or thoughts on this topic?  I mean if they say
it is a necessary step to sand, and he is indicating it had not been done,
why would the bottom paint not have failed?

 

 

Danny

T40

Rum Runner IV

Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

2015-12-23 Thread Headgorilla via CnC-List 

Thanks Dan!
 
The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior 
completely last winter including all new bulkheads, teak dinette, electric, 
watermay sell it eventually or give it to one of my kids...
 
I appreciate the input, and I can hardly wait to get the 34 back in the 
water.what a bummer having to wait all winter.
 
mike
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: djhaughey 
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 6:36 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater

Hi Mike!  Welcome to the list.  My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
the I moved up to a c designed Viking 33.Ed is right!  You're going to love 
the c 34!  The power in the sails is probably the first that will impress 
you! Congratulations on your new boat!As for the hot water, I know a guy that 
only got hot water from a heat exchanger (just like the fresh water cooling 
one)  it saved him a ton of space but the engine needed to be warm to get warm 
water.  It's sort of an alternative to the hot water tank system and you could 
always add a tank later on.DannyMassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 10:54 PM, Edward 
Levert via CnC-List  wrote:>> Mike,>> Welcome to the 
list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.>> The hot water heater on my 
34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to the right of the engine just 
as you suggest. I am guessing it was original equipment. Cannot begin to help 
on how to plumb to the head/shower.>> Ed> Briarpatch C 34 1981> New Orleans, 
La.>> On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
 wrote: Mike here...>>  >> Just bought a 1978 34' 
C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner was a casual club racer and 
took exceptional care of the boat.>>  >> you will have to excuse my ignorance 
(on sailing) since I am moving up from a 22' OdayMH..>>  >> I have been 
following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all very, very 
educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was hauled for the 
winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess around with the 
sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been discussing 
it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 around the 
cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the mast are set 
for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard>>  >> My 
question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if the 
best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 
rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling system.gonna 
be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are under the port side 
cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...>>  >> Any other ideas? or is 
that where I should put it? Thanks,>>  >> Mike>> 1978 34' Skywalker>> 
Southold, NY>>  >>  >>  ___Email 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker hinges; a historical perspective

2015-12-23 Thread Richard N. Bush via CnC-List 

In following this thread, and for the new owners out thereI recommend 
taking a look at the C photo album specs; for many of the models, it seems 
that the early designs used the external "strap" hinges which the first poster 
asked about; then somewhere in the late 1970s or early 1980s, C quit using 
external hinges and began using the piano hinges, thus accounting for the 
differences in the specs...this is easy to spot if you go to the old 
advertisements for any model,  (on the photo album)...there one can review the 
photos and see whether the boat has strap hinges, or if no strap hinges are 
showing, then presumably piano hinges;  

In general, there is a wealth of knowledge to be gained from reviewing the old 
ads; one can see the same ideas used in multiple designs, but tweaked or 
adapted...its also your roadmap to why your boat sails as well as it does...the 
emphasis is on performance, and then creature comforts..
I have often been amazed that the layout and interior designs for most all of 
the models are traceable back to the first boats in the late 60s, early 70s...



...and a Merry and wonderful Christmas to all on the list!

Richard
1985 C 37; CB  Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 7:23 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment



Paul,
 
My 86 model has piano hinges everywhere on deck.  Three cockpit lockers, the 
lazarette, and the anchor locker are all stainless piano hinges.  Mine have 
loosened up over time and I have had to repair and tighten each of them.  
Adding some epoxy filler really helps the small screws get a bite.
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
 
 


 
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Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Ryan Doyle via CnC-List 
 and redrill.
> >
> > -Patrick
> > 1984 C Landfall 38
> > Seattle, WA
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
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Re: Stus-List Free main off of 35/3

2015-12-23 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Lee,

You aren't going to win any races with it!  I have not used it in a couple
years.  It is currently buried behind Christmas presents.  I'll pull it out
in a couple days.

I believe it has a luff rope (no slides) and is loose footed.  It was the
better of the two mains that came with the boat.​ I don't recall the name
of the sailmaker, but it was not North, Quantum or UK.  Probably someone
local to southern VA where the boat came from.  there is still a sail
repair tag on it, but I don't remember what was done.


Joel

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 2:04 PM, Lee via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Joel,Iam interested, please let me know the condition. Thanks Lee,35-3.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 1:55 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Free main off of 35/3
>
> All,
>
> my new main has arrived.  I have an old but usable dacron main I no longer
> need.  It should fit a 35 or Landfall 38.
>
> Just pay shipping and add battens  Otherwise it will become a duffle bag.
>
> --
> Joel
> 35/3
> The Office
> Annapolis
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Email address:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread robert via CnC-List 

Chuck:

I have no first hand experience with either soda or walnut blasting.  I 
did however have the bottom of my boat 'dry ice blasted' to remove the 
antifouling paint down to the gelcoat.


Dry ice blasting is a very quick, clean and effective method to strip 
bottom paint.  Perhaps another option if there is anyone in your area 
that does it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-12-23 10:47 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Danny,

Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which 
yard?  I’m having my “new” 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the 
North Shore of Mass to the South Coast in early January and the bottom 
paint is flaking off in chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat 
underneath in most places.  I would say that the paint over shiny gel 
coat method was not terribly effective for adhesion.


  Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he 
tells me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom 
that takes a significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards 
to allow bottom paint go on nice and smooth.  Perhaps he was also 
implying that the boat should have a barrier coat added as well… 
either way, with soda blasting and subsequent bottom prep, we were 
talking  in excess of $5000.


  With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint 
as possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum 
attachment, leaving just enough “tooth” on the gel coat hull surface 
to repaint.  It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard 
and build my upper body strength at the same time!


However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if 
it is less invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically 
want to start with a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint.   Would 
love to hear from others that have used the walnut shell method and 
what they’ve done to prep afterwards.


Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA




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Stus-List Free main off of 35/3

2015-12-23 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
All,

my new main has arrived.  I have an old but usable dacron main I no longer
need.  It should fit a 35 or Landfall 38.

Just pay shipping and add battens  Otherwise it will become a duffle bag.

-- 
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Free main off of 35/3

2015-12-23 Thread Lee via CnC-List 

Joel,Iam interested, please let me know the condition. Thanks Lee,35-3.
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 1:55 pm
Subject: Stus-List Free main off of 35/3



All,


my new main has arrived.  I have an old but usable dacron main I no longer 
need.  It should fit a 35 or Landfall 38.


Just pay shipping and add battens  Otherwise it will become a duffle bag.



-- 

Joel 
35/3
The Office
Annapolis
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
Make sure the replacement is designed specifically for venting explosive 
gasses, and not just general ventilation.


Bill Bina

On 12/23/2015 1:44 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List wrote:

Hey all,

I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C 30 
mki.  I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to 
replacing the blower.  I removed the the old unit because the fan 
motor was dead.  Judging by the look of it, it may have been original.


The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure 
how it was originally hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted 
through one of the two dorade vents on the transom.  I assume the 
other dorade vent is used to just allow outside air into the engeine 
compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that.


I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, 
and I'm I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my 
engine compartment of gasoline fumes.


Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the 
blower(s) and the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to 
hear it.


Thanks!




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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
; like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood 
> core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, 
> and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
>
> Pictures:
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0 
> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing>
>  =sharing
>
> Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's 
> cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
>
> The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is about 
> 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the toe rail. 
> Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant differences, so I think 
> the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems like if they had made the 
> anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't have had to screw in to 
> coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick enough to fit the screws. 
> Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7 
> days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and 
> redrill.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
On my Viking i ran all new hose to the vents on the transom.  I used the blower 
to pull air out of the back of the engine compartment and attached the other 
end of the hose to one vent and faced its scoop aft.  The other scoop I faced 
forward and ran the hos attached to it to the front of the engine compartment.  
I figured that way I'd get the benefit of moving forward to continually add 
fresh air to the engine compartment.  It is just my own logic that came to that 
setup but, I never did blow up! Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
To: 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 15:05:08 -0500


Something like this might be what you are looking for:
 
3 in-line bilge blower DetMar Cat No. 7-5-4; 12 VDC 3.5A; Ignition 
protected  6 AMP fuse 
(http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC or 
http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8=1450901052=8-1=DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge
Or : http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-140-Marine-Blower-3-Inch/dp/B000O8AZ8K or 
http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-240-Marine-Blower-4-Inch/dp/B000O8D0IC
 
Marek
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 14:53
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki
 
You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed 
for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want 
the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.
 
Joe 
Coquina
 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Russ & Melody via CnC-List 

Hi Ryan,

Like most others, my blower (3" commonly found) exhaust via an aft cowl vent.

I don't recall anyone mention that gas fumes be 
heavier than air, so the intake hose should be as 
low as practical and below the lowest possible ignition point.

I have the intake laying alongside the aft port engine mount.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 10:44 AM 23/12/2015, you wrote:

Hey all,

I'm looking for input on a good blower 
installation on my 1976 C 30 mki.  I'm almost 
through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to 
replacing the blower.  I removed the the old 
unit because the fan motor was dead.  Judging 
by the look of it, it may have been original.Â


The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so 
I'm not exactly sure how it was originally 
hooked up.  Although I surmise it exhausted 
through one of the two dorade vents on the 
transom.  I assume the other dorade vent is 
used to just allow outside air into the engeine 
compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that.


I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet 
setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm I'm looking for 
the safest and most effective way to clear my 
engine compartment of gasoline fumes.Â


Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size 
(in CFM) of the blower(s) and the proper 
diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it.


Thanks!
___

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Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate

2015-12-23 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
+1
You want to separate water, not burn it!
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew 
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 3:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate

You're far better off investing in Racor filter/water separators. Do not try to 
force water through your injectors!

Andy

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Dec 23, 2015, at 15:18, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it is 
beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?
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Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate

2015-12-23 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List 
DON'T DO IT!

If you must use a fuel line anti-freeze, use a very small amount of 99% 
isopropyl alcohol. 
Do not use a lower percentage, and again, don't use very much. 
That was the advice I got from a Shell chemical engineer. 

If you are not sailing in below freezing conditions, use a commercial biocide 
designed for diesel, and follow the directions. 
A small amount of water should go through the injectors without harm, but a 
water separating filter is better.
 
What makes the water in a fuel tank bad is that bugs can grow in it and turn 
your diesel into black sludge. 
The point to the additive is to poison the bugs, not get rid of the water. 

My 2 cents.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C MKI
Merritt Island, FL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Bev Parslow 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 15:18
  Subject: Stus-List methyl hydrate


  Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it 
is beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?


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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing
>> >
>> > Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that
>> it's cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
>> >
>> > The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is
>> about 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the
>> toe rail. Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant
>> differences, so I think the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems
>> like if they had made the anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't
>> have had to screw in to coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick
>> enough to fit the screws. Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each
>> hole, dry it out for 3-7 days (which may not be doable till the summer),
>> fill with thickened epoxy and redrill.
>> >
>> > -Patrick
>> > 1984 C Landfall 38
>> > Seattle, WA
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > Email address:
>> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>> >
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>> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 119, Issue 74
>> *
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate

2015-12-23 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
No. My diesel guys hate it. It doesn't make the water burnable. Don't do it! 
That's all in capitals as if I'm shouting! 

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 15:18, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it 
> is beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

2015-12-23 Thread Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
I also have a used Martec available.  It has been a nice decoration in my
office since I switched it for a Flex-o-Fold a few years back, but it does
still work (just not in reverse...).  It's for a 1" shaft and free with
shipping costs to a good home.

Tim
Branford, CT

On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 9:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is a used Martec on Annapolis Craigslist. No relationship to the
> seller.
> Joel
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, S Thomas via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Agree also.
>> I replaced the original Michigan Wheel 2 blade on my 27 with a 2 blade
>> geared Gori and got better "traction" in reverse, due I think to the
>> increased surface area.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>> C MKI
>> Merritt Island, FL
>>
>> - Original Message - From: "ahycrace--- via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> To: 
>> Cc: 
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 20:47
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4
>>
>>
>> I agree I have a max prop 2 blade and reverse is just incredible it's
>>> like a tug boat is backing you up.
>>>
>>> Gary Kolc
>>> 1976 38' MKII
>>> Liberty
>>>  Indigo via CnC-List  wrote:
>>>
  "No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
 geared one so that you can be sure that it opened."

 Have to disagree with this statement. My 35-III with a two blade
 Max-prop goes very well in reverse. In fact in tight situations I often
 prefer to extract myself in reverse!

 --
 Jonathan
 Indigo C 35III
 SOUTHPORT CT

 > On Dec 22, 2015, at 10:10, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
 >
 > No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a
 > geared one so that you can be sure that it opened.

 ___

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>>> ___
>>>
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>>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread D Harben via CnC-List 
My fridge compressor/radiator is in the engine compartment. I ran the intake 
vent piping to the radiator to get the cooler air. The exhaust vent pipe runs 
to forward lowest area of the engine compartment. I upgraded to 4" to Max the 
air movement and tried for a quieter exhaust fan. I run exhaust fan separate 
from the engine on hot days. There is also a initial PO setup for water cooling 
the compressor. The PO disconnected this. I want to try it again. The thruhull 
is there waiting for a pipe next summer. The cooler water of the North Channel 
is cool even on hot days. 

Don
V34
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Something like this might be what you are looking for:

 

3” in-line bilge blower DetMar Cat No. 7-5-4; 12 VDC 3.5A; Ignition protected – 
6 AMP fuse (http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-1C-4-Blower-Bilge/dp/B0009TQ2WC or 
http://www.amazon.com/DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge/dp/BAYG8Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
 

 =1450901052=8-1=DetMar-7-5-4C-3-Blower-Bilge 

Or : http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-140-Marine-Blower-3-Inch/dp/B000O8AZ8K or 
http://www.amazon.ca/Rule-240-Marine-Blower-4-Inch/dp/B000O8D0IC 

 

Marek

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 14:53
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

 

You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed 
for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want 
the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.

 

Joe 

Coquina

 

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Stus-List methyl hydrate

2015-12-23 Thread Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it is 
beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?___

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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Hi Chuck, I have my boat in Mattapoisett at triad boatworks.  The walnut was a 
lot less than $5000!  They gave me a per ft number but I can't remember it 
right now.  However, the complete bottom job start to finish with materials was 
about $5k to $6K If I pull my notes out later I'll give you better indications 
of cost. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: robert via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 13:05:14 -0400


Chuck:
 
 I have no first hand experience with either soda or walnut blasting. I 
did however have the bottom of my boat 'dry ice blasted' to remove the 
antifouling paint down to the gelcoat.
 
 Dry ice blasting is a very quick, clean and effective method to strip bottom 
paint. Perhaps another option if there is anyone in your area that does 
it.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
On 2015-12-23 10:47 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:Hi Danny,
Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which yard? 
Im having my new 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the 
North Shore of Mass to the South Coast in early January and the bottom paint is 
flaking off in chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat underneath in most 
places. I would say that the paint over shiny gel coat method was not 
terribly effective for adhesion.
 Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he 
tells me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom that 
takes a significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards to allow 
bottom paint go on nice and smooth. Perhaps he was also implying that 
the boat should have a barrier coat added as well either way, with soda 
blasting and subsequent bottom prep, we were talking in excess of $5000.
 With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint as 
possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum attachment, 
leaving just enough tooth on the gel coat hull surface to 
repaint. It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard and 
build my upper body strength at the same time!
However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if it is less 
invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically want to start with 
a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint. Would love to hear 
from others that have used the walnut shell method and what theyve done 
to prep afterwards.
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1

S/V Orion
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

 
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Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job

2015-12-23 Thread Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
Danny,
I know Peter over at Triad so I can ask for a quote.  They do nice work.  
Thanks!
Chuck Gilchrest 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 3:27 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chuck,
>  
> I have my boat in Mattapoisett at triad boatworks.  The walnut was a lot less 
> than $5000!  They gave me a per ft number but I can't remember it right now.  
> However, the complete bottom job start to finish with materials was about $5k 
> to $6K
>  
> If I pull my notes out later I'll give you better indications of cost.
>  
> Danny
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: robert via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Stus List - Bottom Job
> Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 13:05:14 -0400
> 
> Chuck:
> 
> I have no first hand experience with either soda or walnut blasting.� I did 
> however have the bottom of my boat 'dry ice blasted' to remove the 
> antifouling paint down to the gelcoat.
> 
> Dry ice blasting is a very quick, clean and effective method to strip bottom 
> paint.� Perhaps another option if there is anyone in your area that does it.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> �
> 
> On 2015-12-23 10:47 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:
> Hi Danny,
> 
> Can I ask who did the walnut stripping on your boat and at which yard?� I�m 
> having my �new� 1983 Landfall 35 brought down from the North Shore of Mass to 
> the South Coast in early January and the bottom paint is flaking off in 
> chunks, revealing the shiny original gel coat underneath in most places.� I 
> would say that the paint over shiny gel coat method was not terribly 
> effective for adhesion.
> 
> � Speaking to the service manager at Concordia about soda blasting, he tells 
> me that the soda medium leaves a very rough finish on the bottom that takes a 
> significant amount of labor to prep the bottom afterwards to allow bottom 
> paint go on nice and smooth.� Perhaps he was also implying that the boat 
> should have a barrier coat added as well� either way, with soda blasting and 
> subsequent bottom prep, we were talking� in excess of $5000.
> 
> � With that info, I had planned to chip off as much of the old paint as 
> possible, sand down the rest using and orbital sander with a vacuum 
> attachment, leaving just enough �tooth� on the gel coat hull surface to 
> repaint.� It would be a lot of work, but I could do it in my yard and build 
> my upper body strength at the same time!
> 
> However, the walnut shell medium sounds like it may be the ticket if it is 
> less invasive to the gel coat than soda blast and if I basically want to 
> start with a blank canvas of a hull to prep and paint. ��Would love to hear 
> from others that have used the walnut shell method and what they�ve done to 
> prep afterwards.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> S/V Half Magic
> 
> 1975 25 Mk 1
> 
> �
> 
> S/V Orion
> 
> 1983 Landfall 35
> 
> Padanaram, MA
> 
> �
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
t;;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid 
> attachment.
>
> C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they 
> thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid 
> hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several 
> screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks 
> like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood 
> core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, 
> and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
>
> Pictures:
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing
>
> Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's 
> cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
>
> The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is about 
> 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the toe rail. 
> Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant differences, so I think 
> the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems like if they had made the 
> anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't have had to screw in to 
> coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick enough to fit the screws. 
> Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7 
> days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and 
> redrill.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List methyl hydrate

2015-12-23 Thread Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
You're far better off investing in Racor filter/water separators. Do not try to 
force water through your injectors!

Andy

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Dec 23, 2015, at 15:18, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Is it worthwhile putting this into diesel fuel to absorb water. Some say it 
> is beneficial and others say not. What is the consensus?
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki

2015-12-23 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List 
;
> -- Original message--
> From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> ;
> Cc: Patrick Davin;
> Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment
>
> Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid 
> attachment.
>
> C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they 
> thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid 
> hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several 
> screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks 
> like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood 
> core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, 
> and when at dock it's always humid from rain)
>
> Pictures:
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0 
> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0=sharing>
>  =sharing
>
> Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's 
> cored, or am I on the crazy pills?
>
> The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is about 
> 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the toe rail. 
> Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant differences, so I think 
> the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems like if they had made the 
> anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't have had to screw in to 
> coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick enough to fit the screws. 
> Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7 
> days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and 
> redrill.
>
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Seattle, WA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 119, Issue 74
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Stus-List Stus-list: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

2015-12-23 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
All the best, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all fellow listers.
I wish you all great sailing, very generous Santa, good winds and, as
always, at least a foot of water under the keel. And to those of us who are
on the hard, so that the winter is quickly over (they forecast +16 °C for
tomorrow, not that it helps any; you can’t sail or ski).
Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa
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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment

2015-12-23 Thread Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
Paul,

 

My 86 model has piano hinges everywhere on deck.  Three cockpit lockers, the 
lazarette, and the anchor locker are all stainless piano hinges.  Mine have 
loosened up over time and I have had to repair and tighten each of them.  
Adding some epoxy filler really helps the small screws get a bite.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dreuge via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 20:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment

 

Patrick,

 

I don’t think the piano hinges on your anchor locker are original C   I have 
6” SS strap hinges which are bolted through the cover and the deck.  I replaced 
mine old broken hinges with new ones, overfilling the old holes with thickened 
epoxy and re-drilling as typically suggested.  No problems with leaks.  Here’s 
a link to the hinge: http://www.marinepartdepot.com/hedustststhi2.html

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

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