Re: Stus-List Polars available?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Ron

I'll send you the polar file for a 35 MKII just can't seem to do it in
gmail, contact me here

d.ve...@bellaliant.net
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, Mar 3, 2016 at 1:35 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
 wrote:
> First I want to thank those who responded to my quest for info on JAM
> handicapping in a mixed JAM and spin fleet.
> I'm trying to get a handle on what the real differences are between boats
> using a chute and JAM.  To do that I need the polars for different boats.  I
> have them for the C&C 110 and J105.
> Based on Marchaj data, the beat speed is about equal to the speed of the
> boat on a reciprocal course.  Using that and the polars for the reciprocal
> course, I calc'd the difference between chute and JAM.  Surprisingly the
> Marchaj claim doesn't seem to apply to the J24 or J29.
> However, it would be nice to calc for some of the older boats as well.
> Does anyone have polars for the C&C 30, 35 (mk 1 or 2 preferred but mk 3
> also acceptable) and the 25?
> If so, could you send them to me for calc purposes?
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30
> STL
>
>
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Stus-List Polars available?

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

First I want to thank those who responded to my quest for info on JAM 
handicapping in a mixed JAM and spin fleet.I'm trying to get a handle on what 
the real differences are between boats using a chute and JAM.  To do that I 
need the polars for different boats.  I have them for the C&C 110 and 
J105.Based on Marchaj data, the beat speed is about equal to the speed of the 
boat on a reciprocal course.  Using that and the polars for the reciprocal 
course, I calc'd the difference between chute and JAM.  Surprisingly the 
Marchaj claim doesn't seem to apply to the J24 or J29.However, it would be nice 
to calc for some of the older boats as well.Does anyone have polars for the C&C 
30, 35 (mk 1 or 2 preferred but mk 3 also acceptable) and the 25?If so, could 
you send them to me for calc purposes?ThanksRon Wild CheriC&C 30STL
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12 -> subject change n message trim

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Second and third the motion. Learn to post clean, people. I don't ever look
at threads titled "Blah blah *digest* blah blah".

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12 -> subject change n message trim

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Paul, Edd & Ryan,

Please review recent message from Stu. Actually, it's more of a plea from Stu.

For this reply I trimmed about 10 pages of 
unnecessary content and bolded, below, the relevant point(s).


Not trying to be a dick-head about this but 
viewed form Stu's perspective, it diminishes the 
usefulness of his list and he pays a lot more in bit fees (bandwidth).


Regards, Russ


At 01:09 PM 02/03/2016, you wrote:
Thanks Gary.  Just found out from the previous 
owner it's a West Marine Ablative, but he can't remember specifically which.


On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 12:00 PM, 
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
        cnc-list@cnc-list.com


When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Gary Nylander)
   2. Re:  Gori 2 Blade Re-fit (John Irvin)
   3. Re:  Rudder crack C&C 25 (Peter Fell)
   4. Re:  Faria Depth Finders (Ryan Doyle)
   5. Re:  FM antenna? (Michael Brown)
   6. Re:  Faria Depth Finders (Della Barba, Joe)
   7. Re:  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
   8.  Bilge hose (Bradley Lumgair)
   9. Re:  Bilge hose (Joel Aronson)
  10. Re:  Rudder crack C&C 25 (Marek Dziedzic)
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Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I believe it is 6 ply.  Luckily you don't need a long piece!

Joel

On Wednesday, March 2, 2016, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced mine last year with a hose from Buck-Algonquin, costs a fortune
> for a small piece but it’s not something you want to skimp on.  It is multi
> ply hose designed specifically for that application. DO NOT use ordinary
> rubber hose; it could twist and eventually break.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
> SMSC
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I replaced mine last year with a hose from Buck-Algonquin, costs a fortune for 
a small piece but it’s not something you want to skimp on.  It is multi ply 
hose designed specifically for that application. DO NOT use ordinary rubber 
hose; it could twist and eventually break.

Mike Amirault
C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Paneltronics for mine.
http://members.shaw.ca/ptarmiganshift/images/IMG_1803.jpg


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 2 March 2016 at 17:18, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My panel needed larger ones than blue sea sells. Went to mouser.com. Took
> some hunting to find what I wanted
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 2, 2016, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Blue Sea sells LED indicators.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:56 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> You experts are the best!  I am ordering a Shakespeare antenna
>>> splitter...as it appears that will be a very cheap but effective addition.
>>> The FM receiver is 6" away from the VHF and the whole idea makes sense.
>>> Will report in May when it gets installed.  Thanks guys!!
>>>
>>> Now...has anyone replaced the indicator lights on the electrical panel
>>> (red incandescents) with LED or similar?  My little lenses have either been
>>> bonked and freed up to fall into the abyss of the liner (and two are now
>>> missing).  Any advising out there?
>>>
>>> (Yes, someday there will be a topic I might have advice to provide
>>> too...oh well...)
>>>
>>>
>>> *Chuck Saur*
>>> Morning Sky
>>> C$C 35-3
>>>
>>> Snowbound near the Straits...
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My panel needed larger ones than blue sea sells. Went to mouser.com. Took
some hunting to find what I wanted

Joel

On Wednesday, March 2, 2016, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Blue Sea sells LED indicators.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:56 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> You experts are the best!  I am ordering a Shakespeare antenna
>> splitter...as it appears that will be a very cheap but effective addition.
>> The FM receiver is 6" away from the VHF and the whole idea makes sense.
>> Will report in May when it gets installed.  Thanks guys!!
>>
>> Now...has anyone replaced the indicator lights on the electrical panel
>> (red incandescents) with LED or similar?  My little lenses have either been
>> bonked and freed up to fall into the abyss of the liner (and two are now
>> missing).  Any advising out there?
>>
>> (Yes, someday there will be a topic I might have advice to provide
>> too...oh well...)
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>> Morning Sky
>> C$C 35-3
>>
>> Snowbound near the Straits...
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Thanks!

 Paul Baker via CnC-List  wrote: 
http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/packing-box-hoses-2

> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 19:26:21 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> 
> Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All 
> the C&C owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a 
> pretty wide latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty 
> good, but there is no hose more critical to the survival of the vessel and 
> mine failed. Fortunately it was a the dock that the failure occurred, and 
> while inconvenient and very expensive for an emergency haul out at this 
> particular marina, there was never any real danger either to my person or the 
> vessel. It could have been very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not 
> easy to stem the leak. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
  

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Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

http://catalog.buckalgonquin.com/category/packing-box-hoses-2

> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 19:26:21 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: sthom...@bellnet.ca
> 
> Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All 
> the C&C owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a 
> pretty wide latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty 
> good, but there is no hose more critical to the survival of the vessel and 
> mine failed. Fortunately it was a the dock that the failure occurred, and 
> while inconvenient and very expensive for an emergency haul out at this 
> particular marina, there was never any real danger either to my person or the 
> vessel. It could have been very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not 
> easy to stem the leak. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C36
> Merritt Island, FL
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
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Re: Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

A friend was telling me about his packing gland failure while sailing 
into a quiet anchorage in the BVI's.  Motoring through a channel solo he 
suddenly noticed water coming above the floor boards.
A frantic anchor drop he was pumping to get ahead of the water and 
trying to figure out where the water was coming from.
He stemmed most of the flow with a bicycle inner tube wrapped around the 
gland and cranked tight with a couple of hose clamps.  Was able to stay 
the night with a bit of hand pumping, got towed out of the channel the 
next morning and sailed to a marina.
He suggested that everyone should have a couple lengths of bicycle tire 
tube  and pipe clamps avail.

Reminds me that I need to add that to my kit.

Mark

-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc.,D.C.,FCCPOR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
www.BedfordChiro.ca
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-03-02 8:26 PM, sthoma20--- via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All the C&C 
owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a pretty wide 
latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty good, but there is no hose more 
critical to the survival of the vessel and mine failed. Fortunately it was a the dock that 
the failure occurred, and while inconvenient and very expensive for an emergency haul out at 
this particular marina, there was never any real danger either to my person or the vessel. It 
could have been very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not easy to stem the leak.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


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Re: Stus-List Prop nut

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

PB Blaster, a bit of heat, and an impact wrench will usually remove most stuck 
fasteners…

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of J Roger via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 1, 2016 23:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: J Roger 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop nut

 

I can't get mine off, any ideas?  

 

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They should be 
firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, a new hole 
should be drilled in the shaft.

A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.

Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.

Dennis C.


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Stus-List Packing Gland to Prop Shaft Tube Hose

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Does anyone know what the original or best hose is for this application? All 
the C&C owner's manual says about it is "neoprene hose", which leaves a pretty 
wide latitude. I have an idea that several types might work pretty good, but 
there is no hose more critical to the survival of the vessel and mine failed. 
Fortunately it was a the dock that the failure occurred, and while inconvenient 
and very expensive for an emergency haul out at this particular marina, there 
was never any real danger either to my person or the vessel. It could have been 
very different at sea. Not easy to get at, and not easy to stem the leak. 

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL


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Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[J Roger via CnC-List]

Gori stamped on hub however, cannot see model number. I would like to press
a sleeve bushing into each of the blade pin holes, if possible. Most gurus
will say "book-end it" and recommend to buy a new one...but that is against
the grain of my.
On Mar 2, 2016 6:45 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Are you sure its a gori?  I've only ever heard of people re-pinning the
> martec props.  Gori props kinda twist open as apposed to the martecs which
> hinge.  The manufacturer of my Max-Prop (PYI) offers a rebuild service.  It
> costs about 1/4 of the price of a new prop.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 2, 2016 9:10 AM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The
>> blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
>> experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.
>>
>> TY
>>
>> J
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[sthoma20--- via CnC-List]

Contact Gori. They can supply you with replacement pins, but they need to know 
everything about the prop, and I mean everything. There were several different 
configurations of essentially the same prop. This I had from a conversation 
with them at the Miami boat show last month. I have a 13 X 9 on my 27.

Steve Thomas
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL

C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


 J Roger via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The blades
are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.

TY

J


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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Blue Sea sells LED indicators.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:56 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You experts are the best!  I am ordering a Shakespeare antenna
> splitter...as it appears that will be a very cheap but effective addition.
> The FM receiver is 6" away from the VHF and the whole idea makes sense.
> Will report in May when it gets installed.  Thanks guys!!
>
> Now...has anyone replaced the indicator lights on the electrical panel
> (red incandescents) with LED or similar?  My little lenses have either been
> bonked and freed up to fall into the abyss of the liner (and two are now
> missing).  Any advising out there?
>
> (Yes, someday there will be a topic I might have advice to provide
> too...oh well...)
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> Morning Sky
> C$C 35-3
>
> Snowbound near the Straits...
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Thanks Ken, I stand corrected.  I guess I've only ever investigated the
operation of the 3 blade versions.

Josh
On Mar 2, 2016 7:00 PM, "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> A friend has an old 2-blade Gori folding propeller on his C&C 35 Mk.I
>
> It had started unfolding incorrectly as the pins were worn enough to allow
> the gear teeth to occasionally skip.  He took his to a local machine shop
> and they made up two new, slightly oversize pins, drilled the prop out to
> fit and it now works like new again.
>
> I know for a fact is is a gori.  It looks like this:
>
> http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/hqsAAOSwj0NUl5mo/$_1.JPG
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 2 March 2016 at 10:08, J Roger via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The
>> blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
>> experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.
>>
>> TY
>>
>> J
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

A friend has an old 2-blade Gori folding propeller on his C&C 35 Mk.I

It had started unfolding incorrectly as the pins were worn enough to allow
the gear teeth to occasionally skip.  He took his to a local machine shop
and they made up two new, slightly oversize pins, drilled the prop out to
fit and it now works like new again.

I know for a fact is is a gori.  It looks like this:

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/hqsAAOSwj0NUl5mo/$_1.JPG

Ken H.

On 2 March 2016 at 10:08, J Roger via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The
> blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
> experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.
>
> TY
>
> J
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List FM antenna?

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

You experts are the best!  I am ordering a Shakespeare antenna
splitter...as it appears that will be a very cheap but effective addition.
The FM receiver is 6" away from the VHF and the whole idea makes sense.
Will report in May when it gets installed.  Thanks guys!!

Now...has anyone replaced the indicator lights on the electrical panel (red
incandescents) with LED or similar?  My little lenses have either been
bonked and freed up to fall into the abyss of the liner (and two are now
missing).  Any advising out there?

(Yes, someday there will be a topic I might have advice to provide too...oh
well...)


*Chuck Saur*
Morning Sky
C$C 35-3

Snowbound near the Straits...
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Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Are you sure its a gori?  I've only ever heard of people re-pinning the
martec props.  Gori props kinda twist open as apposed to the martecs which
hinge.  The manufacturer of my Max-Prop (PYI) offers a rebuild service.  It
costs about 1/4 of the price of a new prop.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 2, 2016 9:10 AM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The
> blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
> experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.
>
> TY
>
> J
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary.  Just found out from the previous owner it's a West Marine
Ablative, but he can't remember specifically which.

On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 12:00 PM,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Gary Nylander)
>2. Re:  Gori 2 Blade Re-fit (John Irvin)
>3. Re:  Rudder crack C&C 25 (Peter Fell)
>4. Re:  Faria Depth Finders (Ryan Doyle)
>5. Re:  FM antenna? (Michael Brown)
>6. Re:  Faria Depth Finders (Della Barba, Joe)
>7. Re:  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
>8.  Bilge hose (Bradley Lumgair)
>9. Re:  Bilge hose (Joel Aronson)
>   10. Re:  Rudder crack C&C 25 (Marek Dziedzic)
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:22:52 -0500
> From: "Gary Nylander" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?
> Message-ID: <001d01d17497$70011d60$50035820$@atlanticbb.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"
>
> You may want to buy a quart of whatever bottom paint is there and a foam
> brush - just smooth the rough edges out and cover them. It appears to be
> something thick...??..
>
> Gary
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2016 9:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?
>
> Thanks everyone for the responses.  I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to
> take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some
> cleaning if needed.  I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a
> much-needed new depth finder.
>
> Francois - good call on touching up with "leftovers" if I can trade a few
> beers or whatever for them.  As someone else pointed out though, I should
> find out what type is on there before I paint at all.  I'll contact the
> previous owner and figure out what it is.
>
> Now I have some questions about depth finders.  I'll start a new thread.
>
> Thanks again guys.  Very helpful as usual.
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom
> of page at:
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>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:26:14 -0500
> From: John Irvin 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit
> Message-ID: <139640.7458...@smtp201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> If you are close enough Bayview Propeller in Lakefied ON does rebuilds.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: "J Roger via CnC-List" 
> Sent: ?2016-?03-?02 9:10 AM
> To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: "J Roger" 
> Subject: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit
>
> Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The
> blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
> experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.
>
>
> TY
>
>
> J
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160302/a9d7e5e4/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> --
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 07:33:10 -0800
> From: "Peter Fell" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25
> Message-ID: <56209ca49886406187354dcdb8d91...@intra.camosun.bc.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> I'd avoid silicone at all costs  it doesn't last that long and it's
> near
> impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing.
>
> Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to
> remove the gudgeon,

Re: Stus-List Bilge hose

[ed vanderkruk via CnC-List]

I choose the extra heavy duty hose - #147 in your link. A very thick and
substantial hose with a smooth outer wall which I prefer.  It doesn't have
great flexibility or tight bending radius if you needed that for
installation.

Ed
Prime Interest
Toronto, Canada
On Mar 2, 2016 1:28 PM, "Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The hose I was considering was Trident VAC HD bilge and live well hose #144
> http://tridentmarine.com/product-category/hose/bilge-live-well-drain/
> Don't like the idea of the corrugated hose at all. Is there better hose
> for this application?
>
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge hose

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'm cheap: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=3054709

Joel

On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 1:27 PM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The hose I was considering was Trident VAC HD bilge and live well hose #144
> http://tridentmarine.com/product-category/hose/bilge-live-well-drain/
> Don't like the idea of the corrugated hose at all. Is there better hose
> for this application?
>
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Blakely Rock Sat 3/5 - Center Sound Series (Greater Seattle)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I am headed up to Seattle to crew for the Blakely Rock Race Saturday 3/5.
Anybody on the list racing?
http://www.cycseattle.org/event/center-sound-series-1-blakely-rock/
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Re: Stus-List Bilge hose

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

The hose I was considering was Trident VAC HD bilge and live well hose #144
http://tridentmarine.com/product-category/hose/bilge-live-well-drain/
Don't like the idea of the corrugated hose at all. Is there better hose for 
this application?



I'd rather be sailing

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Re: Stus-List Bilge hose

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

The clear hose with a black stripe is intended for water fill connections for 
your water tanks.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Mar 2, 2016, at 11:45 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> None of the hoses on my 33 MkII have ever been changed, so that's one of this 
> winters projects. I've done the exhaust and purchased the hose for the 
> sanitary, but am a bit unsure when it comes to the bilge. The original set-up 
> is a diaphragm bilge hand pump up in the cockpit and another in the settee 
> next the mast base. There's got to be 60 feet of 1-1/2 inch white (yellowish) 
> brittle old hose under the floorboards. I have found either white or black 
> corrugated hose for not a lot of money or clear with either a black or white 
> plastic spiral (smooth inside) for more than $3 per foot. It sounds like the 
> clear is better hose but it's been suggested that it's not intended for long 
> runs, nor below waterline installation yet it's sold as bilge hose..? The 
> surveyor recommended an automatic bilge pump as well. The boat is generally 
> very dry except for rainwater down the mast. Any suggestions? What set-up is 
> everyone else using?
> Thanks
> Brad
> "Pulse" C&C 33MkII
> Lake Huron
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Great. Got it.  Nix the silicone.  Thanks for the ideas.

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On Mar 2, 2016, at 11:57 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There are products that are, supposedly, made for such work: CPES (by
> Rotdoctor) and Git-Rot (BoatLife). Supposedly CPES penetrates better. Both
> of them penetrate better than the normal epoxy resin. 
> 
> However, I have no personal experience on how well they preserve the wood. I
> used Git-Rot in the past on a project almost exactly like yours (rudder on
> my C&C 24; it seems that they are very similar). The rudder is still in one
> piece (10 years later), but I cannot tell if it is because or despite what I
> did.
> 
> Marek
> C270 "Legato"
> (ex. 1974 C&C 24 "Fennel")
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
> Fell via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:33
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Peter Fell 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25
> 
> I'd avoid silicone at all costs  it doesn't last that long and it's near
> impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing.
> 
> Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to
> remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let
> the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then
> with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes.  Same idea as
> putting holes through your cored deck.
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C&C 27 MkIII
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Thanks for the info.  That makes perfect sense.  The surveyor said the lower
> gudgeon was leaking.  When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat lamp
> on it.  Things like this make me thankful to have a 25.  What a bigger pain
> it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post.
> 
> Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be
> replaced?
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C&C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List Bilge hose

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Its fine for underwaterline applications so long as the discharge is above
the waterline.

I had a hand pump connected to that type of hose that ran to a thru-hull in
the bottom of the boat.  Scared the crap out of me!

My cockpit pump still has the yellow hose.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 11:45 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> None of the hoses on my 33 MkII have ever been changed, so that's one of
> this winters projects. I've done the exhaust and purchased the hose for the
> sanitary, but am a bit unsure when it comes to the bilge. The original
> set-up is a diaphragm bilge hand pump up in the cockpit and another in the
> settee next the mast base. There's got to be 60 feet of 1-1/2 inch white
> (yellowish) brittle old hose under the floorboards. I have found either
> white or black corrugated hose for not a lot of money or clear with either
> a black or white plastic spiral (smooth inside) for more than $3 per foot.
> It sounds like the clear is better hose but it's been suggested that it's
> not intended for long runs, nor below waterline installation yet it's sold
> as bilge hose..? The surveyor recommended an automatic bilge pump as well.
> The boat is generally very dry except for rainwater down the mast. Any
> suggestions? What set-up is everyone else using?
> Thanks
> Brad
> "Pulse" C&C 33MkII
> Lake Huron
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There are products that are, supposedly, made for such work: CPES (by
Rotdoctor) and Git-Rot (BoatLife). Supposedly CPES penetrates better. Both
of them penetrate better than the normal epoxy resin. 

However, I have no personal experience on how well they preserve the wood. I
used Git-Rot in the past on a project almost exactly like yours (rudder on
my C&C 24; it seems that they are very similar). The rudder is still in one
piece (10 years later), but I cannot tell if it is because or despite what I
did.

Marek
C270 "Legato"
(ex. 1974 C&C 24 "Fennel")
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
Fell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

I'd avoid silicone at all costs  it doesn't last that long and it's near
impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing.

Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to
remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let
the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then
with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes.  Same idea as
putting holes through your cored deck.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

-Original Message-
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

Rick,

Thanks for the info.  That makes perfect sense.  The surveyor said the lower
gudgeon was leaking.  When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat lamp
on it.  Things like this make me thankful to have a 25.  What a bigger pain
it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post.

Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be
replaced?

Thanks a lot,

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL 


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Stus-List Bilge hose

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

None of the hoses on my 33 MkII have ever been changed, so that's one of this 
winters projects. I've done the exhaust and purchased the hose for the 
sanitary, but am a bit unsure when it comes to the bilge. The original set-up 
is a diaphragm bilge hand pump up in the cockpit and another in the settee next 
the mast base. There's got to be 60 feet of 1-1/2 inch white (yellowish) 
brittle old hose under the floorboards. I have found either white or black 
corrugated hose for not a lot of money or clear with either a black or white 
plastic spiral (smooth inside) for more than $3 per foot. It sounds like the 
clear is better hose but it's been suggested that it's not intended for long 
runs, nor below waterline installation yet it's sold as bilge hose..? The 
surveyor recommended an automatic bilge pump as well. The boat is generally 
very dry except for rainwater down the mast. Any suggestions? What set-up is 
everyone else using?
Thanks
Brad
"Pulse" C&C 33MkII
Lake Huron


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Re: Stus-List Prop nut

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

If there are any threads exposed, you might want to determine the thread
direction that way before tightening it further.😀

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 9:00 AM, J Roger via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'll give it a shot the other way Gary. Thanks
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 7:08 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Are you sure it is a right hand thread?  Otherwise, it seems time for
>> heat.  MAP gas is a lot hotter than propane (just sayin')
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:53 AM, J Roger via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4
>>> across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a
>>> propane torch help?
>>>
>>> J
>>>
>>> C&C27 MkIII
>>> On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They
>> should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line 
>> up, a
>> new hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>>
>> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
>>
>> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's
>> instructions.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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 bottom of page at:
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>>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=86&ProdID=36&DivisionID=3

This is the one I have. It can output NMEA or be a NMEA repeater, which is 
pretty cool :)
I got it for $40 from FleaBay.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

Thanks Joe.  When you say "S-H", is that the unit branded as Hawkeye?

Like this one?  
http://www.amazon.com/Norcross-Hawkeye-D10D-Depth-Sounder/dp/B000JEOEE0


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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Yes, left a lot out. I am not sure how detailed, or long, to make these posts.
I guess the point is that the splitters work well. I have the Shakespeare unit
installed with a Shakespeare loaded whip. I was commenting that if the FM
reception is poor it may not be the splitter causing the problem.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
 

Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 09:46:54 -0500 
From: Bill Bina - gmail  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List FM antenna? 
Message-ID: <56d6fcde.2070...@gmail.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" 
 
There are some vital points left out of this analysis. A horizontal  
dipole antenna is only superior when aimed accurately at the particular  
station you want to hear. It is very directional. A vertical antenna is  
less focused as far as interference, but is omni directional, which is  
far superior when the listening station is one that moves and turns.  
Does anyone remember the brief period when embedded dipole windshield  
antennas in cars were a "thing"? Everyone got over that failed  
experiment pretty quickly, and went back to vertical whips.  How well do  
you suppose a horizontal antenna would work for your VHF? :-) 
 
Bill Bina 
 
On 3/2/2016 9:33 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote: 
> The splitter works well, worth the price. 
> 
> There are some technical challenges to consider. A VHF antenna will be  
> tuned 
> ( some better than others ) to 157 MHz. FM is 88 - 108 MHz. The better the 
> VHF antenna the less FM signal strength it will pass through. The FM  
> station 
> has a choice of polarizing the signal vertically, horizontally, most  
> do both. 
> The vertical whip antenna picks up the vertical version, which is  
> considered 
> to be more susceptible to interference. 
> 
> It may be that a FM specific dipole will work as well. 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILMORE-5035-DIPOLE-FM-ANTENNA-w-MOTOROLA-PLUG-FITS-VINTAGE-VHF-SCANNERS-/151928946680
>  
> 
> 28.5" each side is the correct length for FM. 
> 
> In the style of YMMV, if you have a well tuned VHF antenna with a 50'  
> run to the spiltter, then another 10' run to 
> the radio trying to pick up a "college" station around 88 MHz with  
> horizontal polarization is not going to work well. 
> 
> Michael Brown 
> Windburn 
> C&C 30-1 
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Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe.  When you say "S-H", is that the unit branded as Hawkeye?

Like this one?  
http://www.amazon.com/Norcross-Hawkeye-D10D-Depth-Sounder/dp/B000JEOEE0


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Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I'd avoid silicone at all costs  it doesn't last that long and it's near 
impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing.


Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to 
remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let 
the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then 
with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes.  Same idea as 
putting holes through your cored deck.


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII

-Original Message- 
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25

Rick,

Thanks for the info.  That makes perfect sense.  The surveyor said the lower 
gudgeon was leaking.  When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat lamp 
on it.  Things like this make me thankful to have a 25.  What a bigger pain 
it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post.


Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be 
replaced?


Thanks a lot,

Mark McMenamy
C&C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL 



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Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

If you are close enough Bayview Propeller in Lakefied ON does rebuilds.

-Original Message-
From: "J Roger via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2016-‎03-‎02 9:10 AM
To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "J Roger" 
Subject: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The blades are 
loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody experienced a 
refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.


TY


J___

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Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

You may want to buy a quart of whatever bottom paint is there and a foam
brush - just smooth the rough edges out and cover them. It appears to be
something thick...??..

Gary

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2016 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

Thanks everyone for the responses.  I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to
take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some
cleaning if needed.  I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a
much-needed new depth finder.

Francois - good call on touching up with "leftovers" if I can trade a few
beers or whatever for them.  As someone else pointed out though, I should
find out what type is on there before I paint at all.  I'll contact the
previous owner and figure out what it is.

Now I have some questions about depth finders.  I'll start a new thread.

Thanks again guys.  Very helpful as usual.
___

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Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I don't have that one, but I have a S-H unit that looks pretty much the same 
and it works fine once I adjusted the transducer ring suppression. 
I used my original transducer, so the adjustment was off when I first hooked it 
up. Those mount in a standard gauge hole, so installation is easy.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

Hey everyone,

Does anyone have any personal experience with the Faria depth units?

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=1609168&cartId=1294

Thanks in advance,

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30 mki
New York

Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:03 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Prop nut (Josh Muckley)
>   2. Re:  Prop nut (J Roger)
>   3. Re:  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
>   4. Re:  Removing prop (Ainslie)
>   5. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Jack Fitzgerald)
>   6. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Danny Haughey)
>   7. Re:  Lignum vitae bearings (dwight veinot)
>   8. Re:  determining PHRF rating (dwight veinot)
>   9. Re:  Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement (dwight veinot)  
> 10.  FM antenna? (Jean-Francois J Rivard)  11. Re:  FM antenna? (Bill 
> Bina - gmail)  12. Re:  Prop nut (J Roger)  13.  Do I need a new coat 
> of bottom paint? (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 04:49:55 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop nut
> Message-ID:
>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They 
>>> should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't 
>>> line up, a new hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>>> 
>>> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
>>> 
>>> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to 
>>> the bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
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>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> bottom of page at:
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> -- next part -- An HTML attachment was 
> scrubbed...
> URL: 
>  302/791a3e79/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 06:53:29 -0500
> From: J Roger 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop nut
> Message-ID:
>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4 
> across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a 
> propane torch help?
> 
> J
> 
> C&C27 MkIII
> On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> 
> wrote:
> 
>> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
>> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < 
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
 In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They 
 should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't 
 line up, a new hole should be drilled in the shaft.
 
 A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
 
 Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 

Stus-List Faria Depth Finders

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,

Does anyone have any personal experience with the Faria depth units?

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1&id=1609168&cartId=1294

Thanks in advance,

Ryan
Nobody's Bargain
1976 C&C 30 mki
New York

Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 2, 2016, at 9:03 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Prop nut (Josh Muckley)
>   2. Re:  Prop nut (J Roger)
>   3. Re:  Prop nut (Gary Russell)
>   4. Re:  Removing prop (Ainslie)
>   5. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Jack Fitzgerald)
>   6. Re:  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Danny Haughey)
>   7. Re:  Lignum vitae bearings (dwight veinot)
>   8. Re:  determining PHRF rating (dwight veinot)
>   9. Re:  Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement (dwight veinot)
>  10.  FM antenna? (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
>  11. Re:  FM antenna? (Bill Bina - gmail)
>  12. Re:  Prop nut (J Roger)
>  13.  Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Jean-Francois J Rivard)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 04:49:55 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop nut
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
> 
>> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They should
>>> be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, a new
>>> hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>>> 
>>> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
>>> 
>>> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160302/791a3e79/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 06:53:29 -0500
> From: J Roger 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop nut
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4
> across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a
> propane torch help?
> 
> J
> 
> C&C27 MkIII
> On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
> 
>> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They
>>>> should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, a
>>>> new hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>>>> 
>>>> A prop nut so installe

Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

There are some vital points left out of this analysis. A horizontal 
dipole antenna is only superior when aimed accurately at the particular 
station you want to hear. It is very directional. A vertical antenna is 
less focused as far as interference, but is omni directional, which is 
far superior when the listening station is one that moves and turns. 
Does anyone remember the brief period when embedded dipole windshield 
antennas in cars were a "thing"? Everyone got over that failed 
experiment pretty quickly, and went back to vertical whips.  How well do 
you suppose a horizontal antenna would work for your VHF? :-)


Bill Bina

On 3/2/2016 9:33 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote:

The splitter works well, worth the price.

There are some technical challenges to consider. A VHF antenna will be 
tuned

( some better than others ) to 157 MHz. FM is 88 - 108 MHz. The better the
VHF antenna the less FM signal strength it will pass through. The FM 
station
has a choice of polarizing the signal vertically, horizontally, most 
do both.
The vertical whip antenna picks up the vertical version, which is 
considered

to be more susceptible to interference.

It may be that a FM specific dipole will work as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILMORE-5035-DIPOLE-FM-ANTENNA-w-MOTOROLA-PLUG-FITS-VINTAGE-VHF-SCANNERS-/151928946680

28.5" each side is the correct length for FM.

In the style of YMMV, if you have a well tuned VHF antenna with a 50' 
run to the spiltter, then another 10' run to
the radio trying to pick up a "college" station around 88 MHz with 
horizontal polarization is not going to work well.


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1


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Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for the responses.  I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to 
take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some cleaning 
if needed.  I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a much-needed 
new depth finder.

Francois - good call on touching up with "leftovers" if I can trade a few beers 
or whatever for them.  As someone else pointed out though, I should find out 
what type is on there before I paint at all.  I'll contact the previous owner 
and figure out what it is.

Now I have some questions about depth finders.  I'll start a new thread.

Thanks again guys.  Very helpful as usual.
___

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page at:
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Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I’m assuming a haul out over the winter months is a normal occurrence for you, 
so one is probably pretty safe in assuming the boat’s been painted with paint 
that is compatible with that (ablative). I believe a light sand or good scrub 
is needed to re-activate it prior to launch. Touching-up sounds like a good 
idea.
After buying my boat and dealing with an engine rebuild it had been over 2 
years since it was out, although I did have a diver scrub it down and check the 
zincs. Regardless it was nasty ... and I don’t think the PO had done a very 
good job the last time (actually he had a yard do it). So I took the plunge and 
did the complete strip (who knows how many coats were on it ... I think we 
counted 4 different colours). We used Franmar’s Soy–Strip. Then we fixed about 
a dozen blisters, redid the thru-hulls, pulled the shaft, new cutless bearing, 
new drippless stuffing box, fixed a crunched corner on the rudder, new fairing 
block for the depth transducer, did the epoxy barrier coat and of course new 
anti-fouling. Took us a month, while still working a full-time job. Whew!
It’s nice to be able to plan ahead for those sorts of jobs.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII


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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

 
 The splitter works well, worth the price.

There are some technical challenges to consider. A VHF antenna will be tuned
( some better than others ) to 157 MHz. FM is 88 - 108 MHz.  The better the
VHF antenna the less FM signal strength it will pass through. The FM station
has a choice of polarizing the signal vertically, horizontally, most do both.
The vertical whip antenna picks up the vertical version, which is considered
to be more susceptible to interference.

It may be that a FM specific dipole will work as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILMORE-5035-DIPOLE-FM-ANTENNA-w-MOTOROLA-PLUG-FITS-VINTAGE-VHF-SCANNERS-/151928946680

28.5" each side is the correct length for FM.

In the style of YMMV, if you have a well tuned VHF antenna with a 50' run to 
the spiltter, then another 10' run to
the radio trying to pick up a "college" station around 88 MHz with horizontal 
polarization is not going to work well.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1 



Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2016 16:18:38 -0500 
From: Josh Muckley  
To: "C&C List"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List FM antenna? 
Message-ID: 
      
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
I have the Shakespeare FM splitter.  I can't exactly tell how good the VHF 
antenna works but I can tell you that the FM is only mediocre.  Biggest 
problem is that my sail instrument package causes all types of interference. 
 
Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Mar 1, 2016 4:07 PM, "Jim Watts via CnC-List"  
wrote: 
 
> I have a car antenna, fully extended, parked in the space between the hull 
> and the nav station liner. Works well enough for my needs. 
> If you want to use masthead, you may want to check out the Shakespeare 
> antenna splitter and utilize the existing VHF antenna. 
> 
> Jim Watts 
> Paradigm Shift 
> C&C 35 Mk III 
> Victoria, BC 
> 
> On 1 March 2016 at 12:29, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote: 
> 
>> Quick survey:  What are y'all using for FM antenna?  I have Bluetooth, 
>> Auxiliary inputs, iPad, GoFree (B&G Chartplotter), marina WiFi, Pandora, 
>> and nice, new speakers.  Wired for sound, I brag... 
>> 
>> But I want to listen to good ol' FM radio sometimes, and have issues with 
>> the single line antenna output stuffed into the back of my electro-locker. 
>> Seems in the UP of Michigan, radio is sorta sparse, but pretty good!!  Top 
>> of mast seems optimal, but unsure of space and interference???  What and 
>> where are you mounting something and getting best reception?? 
>> 
>> *Chuck Saur* 
>> Morning Sky 
>> C&C 35-3 
>> Straits area... 
 

 

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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

Interesting! Do you have a bolt just aft of the mast like the couple of photos 
posted? Would there be two keel bolts placed so close to each other? Did C&C 
change how they attached the keels in these 35’s?

Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C&C35 MkII
in Victoria,BC

 
> On Mar 1, 2016, at 3:44 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> mine has a bolt under the mast...1974 C&C 35 MKII, hull #242
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2016 at 6:50 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List
>  wrote:
>> I have a C&C 35 MKII and was wondering if there is a keel bolt under the
>> mast. I was talking to Dennis and he has a Mk I version and he told me that
>> his does not have a keel bolt under his mast. Does anybody know the answer
>> to this? I would rather not have to pull the mast to tighten the bolts. Has
>> anybody with the MKII version looked under there? are there things to be
>> concerned with? I don’t seem to have any issues and don’t want to open too
>> many cans of worms that I don’t have to ;-)
>> Cheers,
>> 
>> Bill Hoyne
>> Mithrandir
>> ’74 C&C35 MkII
>> in Victoria,BC
>> 
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Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit

[J Roger via CnC-List]

Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The blades
are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody
experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight.

TY

J
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Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

As mentioned,  with a few maintenance dives you can probably get away with 
it this year, unless you're wanting to race and be competitive.

What you might want to do is wander around the yard on weekends to see if 
any one's got a little bit left over after their job.. You could touch 
yours up in the few bare spots for practically nothing (Or a few beers). 

I created a some bare spots when I sanded / burnished mine for racing, all 
it took to re-cover was a few swipes from the bottom of my buddy's can 
that was about to be thrown away..
 
Just a thought. 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ 'Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List Prop nut

[J Roger via CnC-List]

I'll give it a shot the other way Gary. Thanks



On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 7:08 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Are you sure it is a right hand thread?  Otherwise, it seems time for
> heat.  MAP gas is a lot hotter than propane (just sayin')
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:53 AM, J Roger via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4
>> across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a
>> propane torch help?
>>
>> J
>>
>> C&C27 MkIII
>> On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I can't get mine off, any ideas?

 On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They
> should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, 
> a
> new hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>
> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
>
> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's
> instructions.
>
> Dennis C.
>
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Re: Stus-List FM antenna?

[Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List]

The problem with horizontal antennas is that they are more directional 
than a vertical antenna. Stations fade in and out as the boat moves, or 
swings at anchor.


Bill Bina

On 3/2/2016 8:45 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List wrote:
I also have the splitter which worked well until a storm came through 
while my wife was at the marina listening to the radio.. Apparently a 
lightning surge came down close enough to be picked-up by the mast top 
antenna and it blew the stereo receiver.. The VHF was not on so there 
was no other damage.


It was a cheap unit that I was considering replacing anyway but now 
I'm also looking at antennas that go in the hull somewhere in hopes 
that it is less likely to capture a wandering lightning surge (Fairly 
common here in the southeast).  This way my next receiver might not be 
as likely to get hit..


Here's what I'm looking at 
http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Trapper-Hidden-Marine-Antenna/dp/B002WQTS58


On lake Lanier we're close to the the stations we like anyway so 
pretty much any decent antenna should do the trick



-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Stus-List FM antenna?

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I also have the splitter which worked well until a storm came through 
while my wife was at the marina listening to the radio.. Apparently a 
lightning surge came down close enough to be picked-up by the mast top 
antenna and it blew the stereo receiver.. The VHF was not on so there was 
no other damage. 

It was a cheap unit that I was considering replacing anyway but now I'm 
also looking at antennas that go in the hull somewhere in hopes that it is 
less likely to capture a wandering lightning surge (Fairly common here in 
the southeast).  This way my next receiver might not be as likely to get 
hit.. 

Here's what I'm looking at 
http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Trapper-Hidden-Marine-Antenna/dp/B002WQTS58

On lake Lanier we're close to the the stations we like anyway so pretty 
much any decent antenna should do the trick 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List Soliciting Advice on 33-2 Battery Complement

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Surette's are very good quality deep cycle batteries...check to make
sure they are bad before you toss them
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Sat, Feb 27, 2016 at 2:19 PM, Doug Welch via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries
> of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian
> Tire 22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery
> box).
>
> My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade
> the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I
> have seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v
> battery terminals can go very bad).
>
> The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20
> Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising
> equipment company e-meter.
>
> My questions are
> 1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
> 2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than
> average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ?
> Thoughts?
> 3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?
>
> Cheers,
> Doug
>
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Re: Stus-List determining PHRF rating

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

PHRF is location dependent I believe and it is a performance based
number...I often refer to New England PHRF's because conditions in New
Englan area are similar to around here so I am told;

heck here:

http://www.phrfne.org/page/handicapping/base_handicaps
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 9:45 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List
 wrote:
> I'm looking for the PHRF rating on my boat and came across the C&C site.
> There are 10 models listed and I don't have a clue where mine fits in all of
> this. Would I use the Lake Ontario rating or the Manufacturers rating...or,
> do I look totally elsewhere?
>
> 34 FOOT
> 34 FOOT CB
> 34 FOOT + DK
> 34 FOOT + WK
> 34 FOOT R
> 34 FOOT XL
> 34/36 FOOT
> 34/36 FOOT R
> 34/36 FOOT XL
> 34/36 FOOT WK
>
> Paul Hood
> '82 C&C34 Georgian Bay, ON
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Lignum vitae bearings

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Same wood, lignum vitae, was used for blocks on sailing vessels like
Bluenose built in Lunenburg NS.  The A. Dauphinee and Sons Block Shop
in Luneburg town produced a large assortment of blocks, dead eyes and
other parts for years and even today Arthur Dauphinee is still
producing parts in his shop on Second Pennisula. Lignum vitae is quite
difficult to obtain nowadays, it is a very beautifu hard wood...i
always wanted to have a pair of lignum vitae sheet blocks for Alianna
just for show.
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Mon, Feb 29, 2016 at 10:27 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List
 wrote:
> Years ago lignum vitae used to be the standard material for ships' bearings.
> It's a very dense (heavier than water), oily wood so it provides its own
> lubrication.  It hasn't been used on ships in the last 50+ yrs.  They
> stopped using lignum vitae because as ships got bigger and faster, the
> shafts got larger and heavier, and the wood wasn't precise enough to keep
> the shaft in position.
>
> Using it on our boats might work, but I could see it being difficult to
> install.  They used to use individual staves that were slid lengthwise into
> grooves in the bronze or steel housing.  Not sure how that would work in our
> struts which are made so you can press in (or out, as some of us are dealing
> with) the bronze outer sleeve.  Are they proposing just a sleeve made of
> wood?
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2/29/2016 6:27 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Came across this. Has me intrigued.
> They will cut me one to my specs  for $60 +shipping.
>
> Ever heard or seen one?
>
> http://www.lignum-vitae-bearings.com/gallery/
>
> Brian
> La Neige
> 37/40
> HdG MD
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I would say you at least need to sand the trouble spots and coat.  I had the 
yard do this for me for a few years before the bottom job on my last boat.  
they charge about 11 per foot to tape and paint and then time and material to 
sand.  I think it was costing about 500 to 600 a year for 33 foot boat. Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
To: "C&C List" 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?
Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2016 21:46:16 -0500


You can probably get away without.  You may grow more slime and soft growth 
near the waterline.  You may get a few more barnacles by the end of the year.  
I would consider diving the bottom sometime in late July.
Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD
On Mar 1, 2016 9:38 PM, "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  wrote:
Forgot to say - I sail New York City to NJ.  Boat will spend the summer in salt 
water and will be hauled in the fall.
On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
Hey all, Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a 
bottom paint job on my boat before launch this year.  I just bought the boat in 
October, so I'm not sure the last time it was done.  I'd rather spend the money 
on some other things this season, but if it's a must, I'll do it. Any thoughts 
are appreciated.   Photos at the links below: 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdDZLWU1QZF9yWHYyTDRTbTYxbXczOHJCWjdv/view?usp=sharing
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGbmgxUTMyMHl3SjhsWHdjMDhxN19vQUkwTy1r/view?usp=sharing
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGQkRROWJPcnZmNThSY1Y3Q1hzM2RnNGp2TkNz/view?usp=sharing
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGaGh4eDhESi1LVU5VWXZrUzluU2Z0YThDMU1n/view?usp=sharing
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGd2R3RmpOMGNfdjhtTlJhRGhwZGQ2Q3lDWnVZ/view?usp=sharing
 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGUl9XNzVZSlR2THV4S2gxNXhoWnhsWFIyRGNZ/view?usp=sharing
  Thanks,Ryan 
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Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint?

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

I wouldn't paint it

On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:37 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Forgot to say - I sail New York City to NJ.  Boat will spend the summer in
> salt water and will be hauled in the fall.
>
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 9:19 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:
>
>> Hey all,
>>
>> Just wanted to get your opinions on whether it's necessary to do a bottom
>> paint job on my boat before launch this year.  I just bought the boat in
>> October, so I'm not sure the last time it was done.  I'd rather spend the
>> money on some other things this season, but if it's a must, I'll do it.
>>
>> Any thoughts are appreciated.
>>
>> Photos at the links below:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGdDZLWU1QZF9yWHYyTDRTbTYxbXczOHJCWjdv/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGbmgxUTMyMHl3SjhsWHdjMDhxN19vQUkwTy1r/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGQkRROWJPcnZmNThSY1Y3Q1hzM2RnNGp2TkNz/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGaGh4eDhESi1LVU5VWXZrUzluU2Z0YThDMU1n/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGd2R3RmpOMGNfdjhtTlJhRGhwZGQ2Q3lDWnVZ/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8g8d5sXYVWGUl9XNzVZSlR2THV4S2gxNXhoWnhsWFIyRGNZ/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Ryan
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Removing prop

[Ainslie via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the input!

 

I'm fairly well set up for tools, pullers, heat etc, and I always leave the
nut on the threads when I'm pulling flywheels or harmonic balancers. It's
just a really good idea to hear about best practices from The Listers.
Thanks again, everybody - I'll let you know if anything entertaining
happens!

 

Jason Ainslie, "Spirit"

1984 C&C 35 Mk III

Port of Bayfield

 

 

  _  

From: doug.we...@rogers.com [mailto:doug.we...@rogers.com] 
Sent: March-01-16 11:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ainslie
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing prop

 

prop a 2X4 between the ground and one of blades. The 2X4 should be as close
to the hub as possibleon the prop end

 

On Monday, February 29, 2016 5:20 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List
 wrote:

 

Hi. I want to remove the propeller from my 35-3. It's a fixed 3-blade (15 R
14), and I'm looking for a folding prop. I have a line on a used one, but
want to be sure about shaft fit etc. The question is: how do I brace the
shaft to get the nut off? Put it in gear? Put a pipe-wrench to the anode on
the shaft? Or just grip the prop well enough to loosen the nut? And when the
nut's off, will the prop come off as easily as the one on my outboard, or
will I need a puller? Any tips would help. Thanks in advance.

 

Jason Ainslie, "Spirit"

1984 C&C 35 Mk III

Port of Bayfield


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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7442 / Virus Database: 4537/11726 - Release Date: 03/01/16

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Re: Stus-List Prop nut

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Are you sure it is a right hand thread?  Otherwise, it seems time for
heat.  MAP gas is a lot hotter than propane (just sayin')

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:53 AM, J Roger via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4
> across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a
> propane torch help?
>
> J
>
> C&C27 MkIII
> On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They
 should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, a
 new hole should be drilled in the shaft.

 A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.

 Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.

 Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Prop nut

[J Roger via CnC-List]

Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4
across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a
propane torch help?

J

C&C27 MkIII
On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They
>>> should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, a
>>> new hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>>>
>>> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
>>>
>>> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Prop nut

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I can't get mine off, any ideas?
>
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight.  They should
>> be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't line up, a new
>> hole should be drilled in the shaft.
>>
>> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily.
>>
>> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's instructions.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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