Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Turns out my boat does not have a shutoff valve near the head, as discussed 
below. It does, however, have a shutoff valve between the sink drain and the 
through-hull. I don't understand the point of that at all. I suppose I could 
put a shutoff valve in the head intake hose. But between the seacock, sink 
drain shutoff, and head wet / flush lever, both the sink and the head are 
double-protected already. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Randy Stafford via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "randy stafford"  
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:12:53 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing 

Hi Rick, 

If it's not necessary to close the sink drain seacock when under way, then I 
guess I don't have to. I just assumed it was a good idea in case at high 
heel/roll angles or when pitching raw water would back into the sink (I saw 
that happen on a Merit 25 once). I'll check whether my boat has a shutoff valve 
near the head. The head does have the flush / wet lever of course. Thanks all 
for the responses. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 9:49:13 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing 



Your head inlet teed to the sink drain is exactly the way my 38 is plumbed. I 
think that arrangement was pretty common in the 70s. 



My question is why you would close the sink drain seacock when under weigh. 



I have a shut off valve in the inlet line between the seacock and the head that 
is near the head, and the lever on the head that is marked “Flush” and “Dry” is 
always left on “Dry” – and either of these should prevent inlet water from 
siphoning into the head when the boat is heeled while sailing. Is your boat 
plumbed with a shutoff valve near the head? 



Personally, I close all my seacocks a couple of times a year to make sure they 
are moving freely and they remain open the rest of the time; though I know 
there are some on the list who close all the thru hulls when they leave the 
boat for a week or two as insurance against a hose leak. 



Rick Brass 






From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:04 PM 
To: cnc-list  
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net 
Subject: Stus-List Head Plumbing 





Listers- 





If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed. 





The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull. The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard 
discharge). 





It's the intake hose I'm wondering about. I suppose with the vanity sink drain 
through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water into 
the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink drain. 
When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock open, I 
could pump raw water into the head. 





Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy? 





Thanks, 


Randy 

___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 


___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

I removed mine by fabricating a box wrench made of 6" length of 4" diameter 
pipe (confirm size that fits over donut). Insert temporary bolts into donut and 
let them protrude. Cut slots in one end of pipe to fit over and engage the 
bolts. Have a 2' long bar welded across the top of the pipe. This should 
provide adequate leverage to unscrew the donut collar. Use temporary bolts as 
the box wrench may deform the threads. The original bolts can be reused to 
reinstall.
Harvey

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:25 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Wow!  You've done everything I would have tried but one.  Try beer.
> 
> Buy a 30 pack of Coors Light and have it iced down, in a cooler, at your 
> boat, and let it be known to the yard mechanics that that is the reward for 
> getting your rudder free.   I expect at least one mechanic will be over after 
> work and others may join to help him get it done for you.  If you can get the 
> guys interested, the worst that will happen is you will make a lot of friends 
> with the yard mechanics.  But I think someone will accept the challenge and 
> step up and prove himself. 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Patrick Davin" 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45:29 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
> 
> I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. 
> 
> The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing 
> in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am 
> attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough 
> that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). 
> 
> This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/
> 
> He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past 
> occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more 
> force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(
> 
> I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they 
> have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are 
> backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep 
> trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it 
> for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do 
> that now if they could get it loose. 
> 
> I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html   
> (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)
> 
> And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and 
> yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. 
> 
> Things I've tried: 
> - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw 
> holes, and around the bottom.
> - Loctite Freeze + Release
> - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
> - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly 
> abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would 
> strip the set screw holes. 
> - C clamps
> - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very 
> successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)
> - Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on 
> the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would 
> finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp 
> does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no 
> slippage. 
> 
> Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting 
> the donut off, or found anything else that worked? 
> 
> The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to 
> try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one 
> ($500). 
> 
> If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, 
> because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted 
> in 5 years). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This 

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[svpegasus38]

Patrick, try turning the nut the other direction. Keep going back and forth 
wit it. Also try Kroil penetrant. It is what we use on stuck bolts on the 
airplanes. Also look into the set screw holes and make sure there is not a pin, 
don't think there is, but... Don't worry about applying to much torque. Those 
threads will withstand alot. Good luck. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List Date: Tue, Apr 
19, 2016 20:46To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Patrick Davin;Subject:Stus-List 
Rudder collar "donut" removal
I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. 
The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing in 
the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am attempting 
to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough that that 
delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). 
This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/

He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past occasions, 
and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more force than a 
strap wrench with no luck. :(
I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they 
have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are 
backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep 
trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it for 
$105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do that now 
if they could get it loose. 

I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html   
(but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)
And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and 
yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. 
Things I've tried: - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into 
the set screw holes, and around the bottom.- Loctite Freeze + Release- oil 
filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip- threading a bolt into the set screw 
holes and hammering on that - quickly abandoned this because it started to bend 
the screws and I realized it would strip the set screw holes. - C clamps- Heat 
gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very successful 
because the mated parts are both stainless steel)- Large hose clamp tightened 
around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on the hose clamp screw. I really 
thought this was the genius idea that would finally work. Nothing budged, even 
with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp does the best job of pressing my rubber 
gripper onto the donut and had no slippage. 
Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting the 
donut off, or found anything else that worked? 
The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to 
try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one 
($500). 
If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, 
because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted 
in 5 years). 
-Patrick1984 C Landfall 38Violet Hour, Seattle, WA


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wow! You've done everything I would have tried but one. Try beer. 

Buy a 30 pack of Coors Light and have it iced down, in a cooler, at your boat, 
and let it be known to the yard mechanics that that is the reward for getting 
your rudder free. I expect at least one mechanic will be over after work and 
others may join to help him get it done for you. If you can get the guys 
interested, the worst that will happen is you will make a lot of friends with 
the yard mechanics. But I think someone will accept the challenge and step up 
and prove himself. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Patrick Davin via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Patrick Davin"  
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45:29 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal 

I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. 

The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing in 
the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am attempting 
to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough that that 
delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). 

This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/ 

He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past occasions, 
and later with that strap wrench. I've already applied far more force than a 
strap wrench with no luck. :( 

I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they 
have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are 
backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep 
trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it for 
$105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do that now 
if they could get it loose. 

I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: 
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html (but 
I guess the donut wasn't a problem?) 

And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and 
yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. 

Things I've tried: 
- PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw holes, 
and around the bottom. 
- Loctite Freeze + Release 
- oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip 
- threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly 
abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would 
strip the set screw holes. 
- C clamps 
- Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very 
successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel) 
- Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on the 
hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would finally 
work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp does the 
best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no slippage. 

Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting the 
donut off, or found anything else that worked? 

The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to 
try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one 
($500). 

If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, 
because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted 
in 5 years). 

-Patrick 
1984 C Landfall 38 
Violet Hour, Seattle, WA 


___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder.

The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust
bearing in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws
and am attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up
(enough that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning).

This is the donut pictured on Wally's page:
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/

He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past
occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more
force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(

I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently
they have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are
backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can
keep trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away
at it for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would
happily do that now if they could get it loose.

I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws:
http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html
  (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)

And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and
yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one.

Things I've tried:
- PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw
holes, and around the bottom.
- Loctite Freeze + Release
- oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
- threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly
abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it
would strip the set screw holes.
- C clamps
- Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very
successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)
- Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on
the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would
finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp
does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no
slippage.

Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting
the donut off, or found anything else that worked?

The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things
to try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new
one ($500).

If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing
box, because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been
adjusted in 5 years).

-Patrick
1984 C Landfall 38
Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Great shots and very educational Josh - thanks for sharing.  Metal looked to be 
in remarkably good shape.

John

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 9:08 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for sharing the pictures Joh!  Very interesting.
> 
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an 
>> education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> On Apr 18, 2016 10:11 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List" > > wrote:
>> Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair.  The 
>> boat I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after 
>> drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel 
>> webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not 
>> salvageable long term. Thoughts?
>> 
>> Gene
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rudder replacement/repair

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing the pictures Joh!  Very interesting.

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:17 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My rebuild was ~$5k.  Seeing what the professionals do was definitely an 
> education.  Not hard, just a lot of work.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Apr 18, 2016 10:11 PM, "Eugene Fodor via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Trying to get an idea of the cost for rudder replacement or repair.  The boat 
> I'm close to purchasing has some brown drainage from the rudder after 
> drilling the bottom which tells me there is some corrosion in the steel 
> webbing. I'm handy unsure if this is better left to a marina shop or not 
> salvageable long term. Thoughts?
> 
> Gene
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Ryan,

If I had similar openings in a bulkhead on Calypso I would follow my usual 
overkill route and:
Square up the edges of the openings
Fab an opening filler from similar plywood
Taper the edges of the opening and the filler piece
Filled epoxy the interface between the opening and the filler
Epoxy/glass cloth/tape around edges
Fair with epoxy/micro balloon or similar easy to sand filler
Prime/paint

It is easy for me to go overboard on this type of project now as Calypso’s 
interior resembles a fiberglass repair shop.  The extra mess and dust would not 
be noticed.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 1:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

Hey listers,
Now for my question:
Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from where a 
previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical panels.  I 
removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have holes.

I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the 
beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system, and 
around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.
Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?

The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the 
holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask here 
first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.
PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that idea.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dremel with a cutting wheel.  Try not to cut the fitting.

Dennis C.
On Apr 19, 2016 12:26 PM, "patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is original
on my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This was
noticed on an insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to be
of a rubber compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how to
remove this 2 inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If it
is just rubber it could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in the
construction. Have not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so with
a full tank of diesel. After the removal , then there is the question of
finding a replacement. Suggestions requested please.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
Hamilton, ON

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Mark did you check with fred about pricing?  Or hodges marine.  Hodges beat 
defender on my radar/chart plotter combo and recently beat them on a Raritan 
fresh head.  And that was defender's spring sale price. 
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device Original message From: "Dr. 
Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"  Date: 4/19/2016  6:02 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
 Subject: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel 
install 

An autopilot has been high on my list as the next big upgrade.  I missed 
the boat show special, figured I had too many other jobs to complete so 
I was going to let it go.
But I just saw that Raymarine EV-100 autopilot is on sale - plus they 
are Raymarine is offering a $300 prepaid Amex card for rebate.

Canadian dollar has rebounded a bit (but Canadian pricing has not kept 
pace) so buying from Defender would save me another $250 even after 
paying for shipping.

In the end I can get the autopilot for ~$1600 cdn -- think I'm going to 
go for it.  Does anyone know if there are extra duties on one crossing 
the border?
I've read the comments about where to install the control unit.  Any 
other advice?

Also planning on installing solar panel (120W) -- figure total wire run 
of 20 ft - online calculator says 10 gauge wire should work. Any extra 
thoughts? Like what should I use to fuse the panel (or fuse the autopilot).

I'd like to order everything at once from Defender and minimize shipping 
costs.

Thanks,
Mark

-- 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

There won't be any duty, but you will have to pay whatever the HST, or GST plus 
PST, or just GST, is payable in your province of residence. In Ontario that is 
13%, but some times, especially for goods shipped via the post office, they 
don't charge anything at all. The post office charges a nominal processing fee, 
if they do collect taxes, but it is not much. Whatever you do, don't have it 
shipped via UPS. Their fees are just ridiculous. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


 "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"  wrote: 

An autopilot has been high on my list as the next big upgrade.  I missed 
the boat show special, figured I had too many other jobs to complete so 
I was going to let it go.
But I just saw that Raymarine EV-100 autopilot is on sale - plus they 
are Raymarine is offering a $300 prepaid Amex card for rebate.

Canadian dollar has rebounded a bit (but Canadian pricing has not kept 
pace) so buying from Defender would save me another $250 even after 
paying for shipping.

In the end I can get the autopilot for ~$1600 cdn -- think I'm going to 
go for it.  Does anyone know if there are extra duties on one crossing 
the border?
I've read the comments about where to install the control unit.  Any 
other advice?

Also planning on installing solar panel (120W) -- figure total wire run 
of 20 ft - online calculator says 10 gauge wire should work. Any extra 
thoughts? Like what should I use to fuse the panel (or fuse the autopilot).

I'd like to order everything at once from Defender and minimize shipping 
costs.

Thanks,
Mark

-- 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Dennis. .would love to see pics. I'm about to start the same project 
ThanksJimSEA YA!C 38 lf


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone

 Original message 
From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
Date: 04/18/2016  11:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CnClist  
Cc: "Dennis C."  
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed 

I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
beer!!!

Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Autopilot purchase and solar panel install

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

An autopilot has been high on my list as the next big upgrade.  I missed 
the boat show special, figured I had too many other jobs to complete so 
I was going to let it go.
But I just saw that Raymarine EV-100 autopilot is on sale - plus they 
are Raymarine is offering a $300 prepaid Amex card for rebate.


Canadian dollar has rebounded a bit (but Canadian pricing has not kept 
pace) so buying from Defender would save me another $250 even after 
paying for shipping.


In the end I can get the autopilot for ~$1600 cdn -- think I'm going to 
go for it.  Does anyone know if there are extra duties on one crossing 
the border?
I've read the comments about where to install the control unit.  Any 
other advice?


Also planning on installing solar panel (120W) -- figure total wire run 
of 20 ft - online calculator says 10 gauge wire should work. Any extra 
thoughts? Like what should I use to fuse the panel (or fuse the autopilot).


I'd like to order everything at once from Defender and minimize shipping 
costs.


Thanks,
Mark

--

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails (AwlWood reference.)

[john.irvin--- via CnC-List]

I like cetol because it’s quick and easy to use and can easily be touched up.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List
Sent: April 19, 2016 5:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails (AwlWood reference.)

As regards what finish to use on the exterior handrails, another product to 
consider is Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA. Claims to be “more" resistant to UV. I’ve 
used it and it applies a bit thicker than traditional varnish thus requiring 
fewer coats. As far as weather resistance goes, all my finished varnish work is 
sitting overhead in the trusses of my shed so who knows…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Apr 19, 2016, at 3:13 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:

Randy,
She looks beautiful! 
I did the handrails on my Viking a few years ago.  But there was no headliner 
and the interior handrails did not alight with the exterior.  They were lagged 
through the coach roof though and the screw heads were very obvious.
I would suggest having a look at compass marine's web page about advice in 
plugging off the screw holes, re-drilling and countersinking the penetrations 
if it isn't already done.  that is an awesome resource for a bunch of boat 
systems.

I used epiphanies varnish on the handrails and coated them 8 times all around.  
I think if I were to do it again I might epoxy them first but, the jury is 
still out as that epoxy kind of just peels up in prolonged UV exposure.

I also bedded them using the butyl tape recommended in the compass marine 
article and bought that from compass.  In fact I followed the bedding 
instructions on the site as closely as I could.

Those rails did not leak for the 3 seasons I had her after the replacement and 
I stepped on the repeatedly.

I also replaced the forward hatch the same year, the same way and again no 
leaks.  what really sold me on butyl is that the deck hull joint was sealed 
that way and nearly 40 years later it was still pliable!

Danny
On 4/19/2016 2:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

And don't worry about igniting diesel. You can put a match out in it.
J

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 5:03 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The fuel filler hose most likely does have a metal spiral inside. I got mine 
> off by cutting along the edge of the metal spiral and ripping it out a bit at 
> a time. Messy, but doable.
> You should be able to find fuel quality hose at most any marine supply store.
>  
> Mike Amirault
> C Lovely Cruise
> SMSC N.S.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails (AwlWood reference.)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

As regards what finish to use on the exterior handrails, another product to 
consider is Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA. Claims to be “more" resistant to UV. I’ve 
used it and it applies a bit thicker than traditional varnish thus requiring 
fewer coats. As far as weather resistance goes, all my finished varnish work is 
sitting overhead in the trusses of my shed so who knows…

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 19, 2016, at 3:13 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Randy,
> 
> She looks beautiful! 
> I did the handrails on my Viking a few years ago.  But there was no headliner 
> and the interior handrails did not alight with the exterior.  They were 
> lagged through the coach roof though and the screw heads were very obvious.
> 
> I would suggest having a look at compass marine's web page about advice in 
> plugging off the screw holes, re-drilling and countersinking the penetrations 
> if it isn't already done.  that is an awesome resource for a bunch of boat 
> systems.
> 
> I used epiphanies varnish on the handrails and coated them 8 times all 
> around.  I think if I were to do it again I might epoxy them first but, the 
> jury is still out as that epoxy kind of just peels up in prolonged UV 
> exposure.
> 
> I also bedded them using the butyl tape recommended in the compass marine 
> article and bought that from compass.  In fact I followed the bedding 
> instructions on the site as closely as I could.
> 
> Those rails did not leak for the 3 seasons I had her after the replacement 
> and I stepped on the repeatedly.
> 
> I also replaced the forward hatch the same year, the same way and again no 
> leaks.  what really sold me on butyl is that the deck hull joint was sealed 
> that way and nearly 40 years later it was still pliable!
> 
> Danny
> 
> On 4/19/2016 2:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

The fuel filler hose most likely does have a metal spiral inside. I got mine 
off by cutting along the edge of the metal spiral and ripping it out a bit at a 
time. Messy, but doable.
You should be able to find fuel quality hose at most any marine supply store.

Mike Amirault
C Lovely Cruise
SMSC N.S.___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

P.P.S - Before anyone freaks about having an electric heater on the stove:
My stove is completely unhooked and there is no propane on the boat.  I'll
be buying a new stove soon.



On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 4:48 PM, Ryan Doyle  wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> I've mentioned a couple times on here that a previous owner (two owners
> ago) completely reconfigured the interior of my boat.
>
> As a result, I was able to buy her back in October with a good survey for
> a song... because - let's face it - most people don't want to buy a boat
> with an owner-customized interior.
>
> C purists will probably gasp in horror, but I think the interior layout
> works.  The galley area is now the entire port side, and the custom
> starboard bench pulls out to make a nice-sized bed.  The only downside is
> there's kind of nowhere to sit and eat.
>
> The reason I explain all of this is my interior I get lots of questions
> when I post pictures.   These photos were taken when I was installing all
> my new LED interior lighting, so it's a bit of a mess.
>
> Go ahead and stare at my disfigured interior...
>
> ​
>  IMG_4911.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4919.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4918.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4915.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4917.JPG
> 
> ​​
>  IMG_4728.JPG
> 
> ​
>
> Now for my question:
>
> Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from
> where a previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical
> panels.  I removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have
> holes.
>
> I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the
> beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system,
> and around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?
>
> The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the
> holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask
> here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.
>
> PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that
> idea.
>
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Holes in my bulkhead

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

I've mentioned a couple times on here that a previous owner (two owners
ago) completely reconfigured the interior of my boat.

As a result, I was able to buy her back in October with a good survey for a
song... because - let's face it - most people don't want to buy a boat with
an owner-customized interior.

C purists will probably gasp in horror, but I think the interior layout
works.  The galley area is now the entire port side, and the custom
starboard bench pulls out to make a nice-sized bed.  The only downside is
there's kind of nowhere to sit and eat.

The reason I explain all of this is my interior I get lots of questions
when I post pictures.   These photos were taken when I was installing all
my new LED interior lighting, so it's a bit of a mess.

Go ahead and stare at my disfigured interior...

​
 IMG_4911.JPG

​​
 IMG_4919.JPG

​​
 IMG_4918.JPG

​​
 IMG_4915.JPG

​​
 IMG_4917.JPG

​​
 IMG_4728.JPG

​

Now for my question:

Next to my companionway I have holes in that bulkhead.  They are from where
a previous owner had installed a tangled series of add-on electrical
panels.  I removed all of them when I rewired the boat.  Alas, now I have
holes.

I thought about buying some beadboard and covering it up - cutting the
beadboard to go around the chart table, around the motor cooling system,
and around the companionway, but that just seems like a lot of messy work.

Does anyone have any ideas for covering these holes?

The best idea I currently have is cutting some plywood, sticking it in the
holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask
here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.

PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that idea.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Kevin:

I used West Marine Model 31395-3001.  Hope this helps…

Bob

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 3:58 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Which pump did you use. I need to find something to replace my shower sump 
> pump. The rebuild kit is $100. No thanks.
> 
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 9:41 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> I've added a 12-volt pump to pump fridge drain overboard.  I have a 3-way 
> valve so that it is also my shower sump pump.  It needs a strainer to protect 
> the pump.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
> 
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 12:34 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> My 1980 Landfall 38 that I just bought recently had a small hand pump, but 
>> no drain.  I was checking it out this weekend and will probably install one 
>> that drains into the sink drain so it doesn't go into the bilge.  A "Y" 
>> connector should to the trick so it doesn't back up into the sink.  I 
>> removed the small pump and got a bigger hand one from West Marine for $30.  
>> I really want to redo the entire refrigeration with a better compressor than 
>> the cold plate version that's in her now...  Has anybody rebuilt there's to 
>> be a freezer/frig?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>   Virus-free. www.avast.com 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:27 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> I think on the smaller, older boats, the ice box just drained to the bilge. 
>> On my 27, the PO had a small hand pump (my impression was it was added 
>> later) but it went to a milk jug jammed in next to the engine. If it pumps 
>> up to the sink, how is it physically attached to the sink?.
>>  
>> From: Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 8:47 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Tom Lynch 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
>>  
>> Yup, 
>>  
>> My 1985 33II has the small hand pump accessed from under the galley sink. 
>>  
>> Tom Lynch
>> Escape (to be renamed Indo-Irish)
>> C 33 MK II
>> Bayfield, WI
>>  
>>  
>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> I think the pump on the cooler drain was standard on that era of boats, our 
>> 84 29'er had it, so does our 84 35'er.
>>  
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>>  
>> On 18 April 2016 at 07:22, mike amirault via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler drain 
>> and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is original 
>> or was installed by a PO.
>>  
>> As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?
>>  
>> Mike Amirault
>> C Lovely Cruise
>> SMSC NS.
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly 

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

On my 30-1, there are chrome plugs about an inch in diameter to cover the 
screws which are forward of the interior handrails – and on a 30, the rails are 
connected.

 

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 3:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

 

 

 

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet

On a 1981 36' the handrails are through bolted with 3 inch machine screws and 
washers and nuts.  Remove headliner panels to access.  Very sturdy.  

Bill Walker

2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4  ;}@font-face 
{font-family:Tahoma; panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4 
 ;}@font-face 
{font-family:Arial-BoldMT;}/* Style Definitions */p.Ms  oNormal, 
li.Ms  oNormal, div.Ms  oNormal {margin:0in; 
margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New 
Roman","serif";}a:link, span.Ms  oHyperlink 
{mso-style-priority:99; color:blue; text-decoration:underline;}a:visited, 
span.Ms  oHyperlinkFollowed {mso-style-priority:99; 
color:purple; text-decoration:underline;}p.Ms  oAcetate, li.Ms 
 oAcetate, div.Ms  oAcetate 
{mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-link:"Balloon Text Char"; margin:0in; 
margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:8.0pt; 
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";}span.EmailStyle17 
{mso-style-type:personal-reply; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; 
color:#1F497D; font-weight:normal; font-style:normal;}span.Ba  
lloonTextChar {mso-style-name:"Balloon Text Char"; mso-style-priority:99; 
mso-style-link:"Balloon Text"; 
font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";}.MsoChpDefault {mso-style-type:export-only; 
font-size:10.0pt;}@page WordSection1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.0in 
1.0in 1.0in;}div.WordSection1 {page:WordSection1;}-->




  _  


This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out atwww.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice 
 



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié 
àwww.rogers.com/aviscourriel   


  _  


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Below deck autopilot -C 33

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Someone, a while back, asked in another thread how I fit a below decks
autopilot in my c 33-1.  Here is a picture looking back from the
starboard cockpit locker showing the Al-tiller arm mounted on the rudder
post just above the quadrant.  A cable that runs to the cockpit is used to
engage the autopilot by inserting a pin into a fixed lower plate.  The
ram/actuator is the stainless steel piece that runs fore and aft and
connects to the tiller arm pivoting piece .

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByBr0fHpZdGvVUl4YjQyRkJpUlE/view?usp=sharing

The electronics that drives the ram could be any commercial unit but mine
consist of an Arduino, Pololu motor controller, electronic compass, and a
sparkfun rate gyro.  Unfortunately, this is all I have that shows the
electronics:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByBr0fHpZdGvNHFFRXdacG1Nbm8/view?usp=sharing

 Cheers,

David
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Bob,

Which pump did you use. I need to find something to replace my shower sump
pump. The rebuild kit is $100. No thanks.

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 9:41 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've added a 12-volt pump to pump fridge drain overboard.  I have a 3-way
> valve so that it is also my shower sump pump.  It needs a strainer to
> protect the pump.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)
>
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 12:34 PM, Brian Davis via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My 1980 Landfall 38 that I just bought recently had a small hand pump, but
> no drain.  I was checking it out this weekend and will probably install one
> that drains into the sink drain so it doesn't go into the bilge.  A "Y"
> connector should to the trick so it doesn't back up into the sink.  I
> removed the small pump and got a bigger hand one from West Marine for $30.
> I really want to redo the entire refrigeration with a better compressor
> than the cold plate version that's in her now...  Has anybody rebuilt
> there's to be a freezer/frig?
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_6484428832935508057_m_2231386556315230213_DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 12:27 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think on the smaller, older boats, the ice box just drained to the
>> bilge. On my 27, the PO had a small hand pump (my impression was it was
>> added later) but it went to a milk jug jammed in next to the engine. If it
>> pumps up to the sink, how is it physically attached to the sink?.
>>
>> *From:* Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 18, 2016 8:47 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Tom Lynch 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 33-2 - 1985 Cooler Drainage Issue
>>
>> Yup,
>>
>> My 1985 33II has the small hand pump accessed from under the galley
>> sink.
>>
>> Tom Lynch
>> Escape (to be renamed Indo-Irish)
>> C 33 MK II
>> Bayfield, WI
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I think the pump on the cooler drain was standard on that era of boats,
>>> our 84 29'er had it, so does our 84 35'er.
>>>
>>> Jim Watts
>>> Paradigm Shift
>>> C 35 Mk III
>>> Victoria, BC
>>>
>>> On 18 April 2016 at 07:22, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 My C7C33ii has a small manually operated pump attached to the cooler
 drain and can be pumped into the galley sink.  I have no idea if this is
 original or was installed by a PO.

 As for the head, do you mean the sink won’t drain or the head itself?

 Mike Amirault
 C Lovely Cruise
 SMSC NS.

 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!


>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Brian Davis via CnC-List]

I'd like to see some pics please.

brianwdavis...@gmail.com


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DDB4FAA8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 11:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.
> Cold beer!!!
>
> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[wwadjourn]

Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet


On a 1981 36' the handrails are through bolted with 3 inch machine screws and 
washers and nuts.  Remove headliner panels to access.  Very sturdy.  Bill Walker


This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out atwww.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié 
àwww.rogers.com/aviscourriel ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Randy,

She looks beautiful!

I did the handrails on my Viking a few years ago.  But there was no 
headliner and the interior handrails did not alight with the exterior.  
They were lagged through the coach roof though and the screw heads were 
very obvious.


I would suggest having a look at compass marine's web page about advice 
in plugging off the screw holes, re-drilling and countersinking the 
penetrations if it isn't already done.  that is an awesome resource for 
a bunch of boat systems.


I used epiphanies varnish on the handrails and coated them 8 times all 
around.  I think if I were to do it again I might epoxy them first but, 
the jury is still out as that epoxy kind of just peels up in prolonged 
UV exposure.


I also bedded them using the butyl tape recommended in the compass 
marine article and bought that from compass.  In fact I followed the 
bedding instructions on the site as closely as I could.


Those rails did not leak for the 3 seasons I had her after the 
replacement and I stepped on the repeatedly.


I also replaced the forward hatch the same year, the same way and again 
no leaks.  what really sold me on butyl is that the deck hull joint was 
sealed that way and nearly 40 years later it was still pliable!


Danny

On 4/19/2016 2:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

Listers-

My next project is to refinish and re-bed the teak hand rails on the 
cabin top of my boat.  Any tips on how to remove them?  I believe 
there are screws covered by bungs from the interior hand rails to the 
exterior hand rails aft of the bulkhead separating the salon from the 
head.  But how are the exterior handrails fastened forward of that 
bulkhead?  (the exterior hand rails extend farther forward than the 
interior ones).


I need to remove them in order to re-bed them, as I've got a leak from 
the port aft screw hole onto my ice box lid and galley countertop 
around it, causing delamination of the plywood countertop at the ice 
box lid cutout.


My plan is to strip them (if necessary), sand them, and just oil them 
with teak oil, following instructions from Don Casey.  If you think a 
sealer or varnish would be better, I'd be interested in hearing your 
opinion.


Also, inspired by Dennis's pictures from Touche, I've posted a few 
pictures of my boat at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.  So far 
the only projects I've done are cosmetic stuff on the hull exterior: 
lots of topsides buffing and waxing, putting on my own transom decals, 
sanding and repainting the boot stripe, and spot-sanding and 
re-coating the bottom with VC-17 (plus adding a combination spare tire 
/ carrier wheel to the trailer).


I'd like to thank you all again for making this list such an 
outstanding resource.  I'm very grateful to be able to communicate 
with you all.  And special shout-out to Stu Murray for making all this 
possible - I just ordered five quantity of "Photo Album Support" from 
the C Photo Album Online Chandlery in appreciation.


Cheers,
Randy


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

No, on my Landfall 38, they were just screws through the exterior skin--they 
don't come into the cabin!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 2:39 PM, Tim Sippel via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> It sounds like there should be some round white “plugs” on your cabin 
> headliner (ceiling?)  , pop these out and the “nuts should be there .
>  
> Tim
>  
> C 33mkii MATICO
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
> Stafford via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 2:22 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails
>  
> Listers-
>  
> My next project is to refinish and re-bed the teak hand rails on the cabin 
> top of my boat.  Any tips on how to remove them?  I believe there are screws 
> covered by bungs from the interior hand rails to the exterior hand rails aft 
> of the bulkhead separating the salon from the head.  But how are the exterior 
> handrails fastened forward of that bulkhead?  (the exterior hand rails extend 
> farther forward than the interior ones).
>  
> I need to remove them in order to re-bed them, as I've got a leak from the 
> port aft screw hole onto my ice box lid and galley countertop around it, 
> causing delamination of the plywood countertop at the ice box lid cutout.
>  
> My plan is to strip them (if necessary), sand them, and just oil them with 
> teak oil, following instructions from Don Casey.  If you think a sealer or 
> varnish would be better, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion.
>  
> Also, inspired by Dennis's pictures from Touche, I've posted a few pictures 
> of my boat at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.  
> So far the only projects I've done are cosmetic stuff on the hull exterior: 
> lots of topsides buffing and waxing, putting on my own transom decals, 
> sanding and repainting the boot stripe, and spot-sanding and re-coating the 
> bottom with VC-17 (plus adding a combination spare tire / carrier wheel to 
> the trailer).
>  
> I'd like to thank you all again for making this list such an outstanding 
> resource.  I'm very grateful to be able to communicate with you all.  And 
> special shout-out to Stu Murray for making all this possible - I just ordered 
> five quantity of "Photo Album Support" from the C Photo Album Online 
> Chandlery in appreciation.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the 
> basis of the terms set out at www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice
> 
> 
> 
> Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
> fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
> www.rogers.com/aviscourriel
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 86' C MKIII Window options

[CHRIS HOBSON via CnC-List]

Hi,

Still eyeballing an 86’ MKIII for sale and contemplating possible cosmetic 
upgrades if I were to purchase. Not a big fan of the single pane plexi window 
wondering if I can make it two panes like a few years earlier before they 
changed it. Would be great if I could get some trim that goes around each pane 
to make the appearance a bit cleaner. Found a website that sells the plexi, 
just curious if anyone has done this.

Cheers,
Chris




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

On my Landfall 38 I removed the exterior handrails to replace them with custom 
stainless steel handrails many years ago.  I can tell you that the outside 
handrails are simply attached to the outside skin of the cored cabin top with 
screws about 2-1/2 to 2 inches long.  They do not align with the interior 
handrails.  Most likely if you have a leak coming into the cabin, you have a 
wet core OR the leak is originating somewhere else and is running along the 
liner ply and coming out the holes in the interior handrail.

By the way, I am so glad I replaced my exterior handrails with stainless 
steel--I spent my spring sailing now

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 2:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> My next project is to refinish and re-bed the teak hand rails on the cabin 
> top of my boat.  Any tips on how to remove them?  I believe there are screws 
> covered by bungs from the interior hand rails to the exterior hand rails aft 
> of the bulkhead separating the salon from the head.  But how are the exterior 
> handrails fastened forward of that bulkhead?  (the exterior hand rails extend 
> farther forward than the interior ones).
> 
> I need to remove them in order to re-bed them, as I've got a leak from the 
> port aft screw hole onto my ice box lid and galley countertop around it, 
> causing delamination of the plywood countertop at the ice box lid cutout.
> 
> My plan is to strip them (if necessary), sand them, and just oil them with 
> teak oil, following instructions from Don Casey.  If you think a sealer or 
> varnish would be better, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion.
> 
> Also, inspired by Dennis's pictures from Touche, I've posted a few pictures 
> of my boat at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.  
> So far the only projects I've done are cosmetic stuff on the hull exterior: 
> lots of topsides buffing and waxing, putting on my own transom decals, 
> sanding and repainting the boot stripe, and spot-sanding and re-coating the 
> bottom with VC-17 (plus adding a combination spare tire / carrier wheel to 
> the trailer).
> 
> I'd like to thank you all again for making this list such an outstanding 
> resource.  I'm very grateful to be able to communicate with you all.  And 
> special shout-out to Stu Murray for making all this possible - I just ordered 
> five quantity of "Photo Album Support" from the C Photo Album Online 
> Chandlery in appreciation.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Stu via CnC-List]

Dennis – send me the photos and descriptions and I’ll put them on the Photo 
Album

Stu
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Tim Sippel via CnC-List]

It sounds like there should be some round white “plugs” on your cabin headliner 
(ceiling?)  , pop these out and the “nuts should be there .

Tim

C 33mkii MATICO

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 2:22 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

Listers-

My next project is to refinish and re-bed the teak hand rails on the cabin top 
of my boat.  Any tips on how to remove them?  I believe there are screws 
covered by bungs from the interior hand rails to the exterior hand rails aft of 
the bulkhead separating the salon from the head.  But how are the exterior 
handrails fastened forward of that bulkhead?  (the exterior hand rails extend 
farther forward than the interior ones).

I need to remove them in order to re-bed them, as I've got a leak from the port 
aft screw hole onto my ice box lid and galley countertop around it, causing 
delamination of the plywood countertop at the ice box lid cutout.

My plan is to strip them (if necessary), sand them, and just oil them with teak 
oil, following instructions from Don Casey.  If you think a sealer or varnish 
would be better, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion.

Also, inspired by Dennis's pictures from Touche, I've posted a few pictures of 
my boat at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.  So 
far the only projects I've done are cosmetic stuff on the hull exterior: lots 
of topsides buffing and waxing, putting on my own transom decals, sanding and 
repainting the boot stripe, and spot-sanding and re-coating the bottom with 
VC-17 (plus adding a combination spare tire / carrier wheel to the trailer).

I'd like to thank you all again for making this list such an outstanding 
resource.  I'm very grateful to be able to communicate with you all.  And 
special shout-out to Stu Murray for making all this possible - I just ordered 
five quantity of "Photo Album Support" from the C Photo Album Online 
Chandlery in appreciation.

Cheers,
Randy





This communication is confidential. We only send and receive email on the basis 
of the terms set out at 
www.rogers.com/web/content/emailnotice



Ce message est confidentiel. Notre transmission et réception de courriels se 
fait strictement suivant les modalités énoncées dans l’avis publié à 
www.rogers.com/aviscourriel 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Randy,

No oil on exterior teak!  You will have a sticky mess.  Sorry, natural or
varnish.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 2:21 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers-
>
> My next project is to refinish and re-bed the teak hand rails on the cabin
> top of my boat.  Any tips on how to remove them?  I believe there are
> screws covered by bungs from the interior hand rails to the exterior hand
> rails aft of the bulkhead separating the salon from the head.  But how are
> the exterior handrails fastened forward of that bulkhead?  (the exterior
> hand rails extend farther forward than the interior ones).
>
> I need to remove them in order to re-bed them, as I've got a leak from the
> port aft screw hole onto my ice box lid and galley countertop around it,
> causing delamination of the plywood countertop at the ice box lid cutout.
>
> My plan is to strip them (if necessary), sand them, and just oil them with
> teak oil, following instructions from Don Casey.  If you think a sealer or
> varnish would be better, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion.
>
> Also, inspired by Dennis's pictures from Touche, I've posted a few
> pictures of my boat at
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk.  So far
> the only projects I've done are cosmetic stuff on the hull exterior: lots
> of topsides buffing and waxing, putting on my own transom decals, sanding
> and repainting the boot stripe, and spot-sanding and re-coating the bottom
> with VC-17 (plus adding a combination spare tire / carrier wheel to the
> trailer).
>
> I'd like to thank you all again for making this list such an outstanding
> resource.  I'm very grateful to be able to communicate with you all.  And
> special shout-out to Stu Murray for making all this possible - I just
> ordered five quantity of "Photo Album Support" from the C Photo Album
> Online Chandlery in appreciation.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

yea that is that Raritan fresh head kit. it is supposed to work with 
most modern toilets as a simple bolt on.  It ads a vacuum breaker to 
make it safe to connect to boat fresh water supply and gives good 
quality Raritan pump.


Danny


On 4/19/2016 12:02 PM, Bob Caughran via CnC-List wrote:
On Beemer I have a thru hull and seacock under the sink that feeds the 
head. Was fine in lakes but now with seawater it's less than my 
liking. Always had to have seacock closed as would overflow the head 
on a port tack.
I plan to plumb from onboard water supply this spring. They have a kit 
if I plumb from
Pressure water side of sink in head. Currently leave the head on dry 
and pour from cup on the sink. Works fine and no odors.


Bob
Beemer, 29mkii, 309

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 18, 2016, at 10:04 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
> wrote:



Listers-

If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the 
head on my boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.


The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through 
hull.  The discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for 
overboard discharge).


It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity 
sink drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could 
pump fresh water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity 
sink and letting the sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity 
sink drain through-hull seacock open, I could pump raw water into the 
head.


Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

Thanks,
Randy
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Removing Cabin-Top Handrails

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers- 

My next project is to refinish and re-bed the teak hand rails on the cabin top 
of my boat. Any tips on how to remove them? I believe there are screws covered 
by bungs from the interior hand rails to the exterior hand rails aft of the 
bulkhead separating the salon from the head. But how are the exterior handrails 
fastened forward of that bulkhead? (the exterior hand rails extend farther 
forward than the interior ones). 

I need to remove them in order to re-bed them, as I've got a leak from the port 
aft screw hole onto my ice box lid and galley countertop around it, causing 
delamination of the plywood countertop at the ice box lid cutout. 

My plan is to strip them (if necessary), sand them, and just oil them with teak 
oil, following instructions from Don Casey. If you think a sealer or varnish 
would be better, I'd be interested in hearing your opinion. 

Also, inspired by Dennis's pictures from Touche, I've posted a few pictures of 
my boat at https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTaUlpUkZJWGt5RVk . So 
far the only projects I've done are cosmetic stuff on the hull exterior: lots 
of topsides buffing and waxing, putting on my own transom decals, sanding and 
repainting the boot stripe, and spot-sanding and re-coating the bottom with 
VC-17 (plus adding a combination spare tire / carrier wheel to the trailer). 

I'd like to thank you all again for making this list such an outstanding 
resource. I'm very grateful to be able to communicate with you all. And special 
shout-out to Stu Murray for making all this possible - I just ordered five 
quantity of "Photo Album Support" from the C Photo Album Online Chandlery in 
appreciation. 

Cheers, 
Randy 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I bought a pair of hose cutters 
 
to cut the hoses, both old and new.  Then a pair of good diagonal 
cutters 
 
for the wire.


The like was mentioned, a razor knife to make a slit and a pair of water 
pump pliers to grab what was left of the hose and pull it off.


Trident makes a low permeation fuel fill hose that I bought.  I haven't 
done that job yet, just the sanitation.  The fuel fill hose on my boat 
is one and a half inch.


Take you time and don't get frustrated.  it is a stubborn job job not 
all that difficult.  I also used a heat gun to heat the hose and dish 
soap for lube to get the hose on more easily.  it works!!


Danny


On 4/19/2016 1:25 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List wrote:
The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is 
original on my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. 
This was noticed on an insurance survey at the ten year interval. It 
appears to be of a rubber compound. I find it impossible to move. Any 
hints as to how to remove this 2 inch external hose without damage to 
the end fittings. If it is just rubber it could be cut but wonder if 
there is a metal spiral in the construction. Have not tried heat on 
the ends and am leery of doing so with a full tank of diesel. After 
the removal , then there is the question of finding a replacement. 
Suggestions requested please.

Harold
Celtic Spirit
Hamilton, ON


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

There was a recent post on SailNet that said it was only 4 feet.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 1:57 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been asked to help deliver a donated C 36 from the Sassafras
> River (Georgetown Basin) to St. Michaels.
>
> I looked up the specifications on the web site and get a draft of 5’11”.
> When I last went through the Narrows, I was marginal with my 5 foot draft.
>
> Are we in trouble? Plus high tides are around 5:00 for the next few days….
>
> Joe, do you know if they have done any dredging recently?
>
>
>
> Gary Nylander
>
> St. Michaels
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Kent Narrows Water Depth

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have been asked to help deliver a donated C 36 from the Sassafras River
(Georgetown Basin) to St. Michaels.

I looked up the specifications on the web site and get a draft of 5'11".
When I last went through the Narrows, I was marginal with my 5 foot draft.

Are we in trouble? Plus high tides are around 5:00 for the next few days..

Joe, do you know if they have done any dredging recently?

 

Gary Nylander

St. Michaels

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

I used a chain oil filter wrench to get mine out. It worked great and wasn't 
too bad but I had an aluminum tank at that time and I wasn't that concerned 
about the tank fitting.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w54061?seid=srese1=CKGNloehm8wCFQiUaQod-loJpA

Cheers,
Aaron Rouhi
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1

On Apr 19, 2016, at 12:26 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List 
> wrote:

The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is original on 
my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This was noticed on an 
insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to be of a rubber 
compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how to remove this 2 
inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If it is just rubber it 
could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in the construction. Have 
not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so with a full tank of diesel. 
After the removal , then there is the question of finding a replacement. 
Suggestions requested please.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
Hamilton, ON
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I hate removing old hoses!  If you can't budge it, I would cut off the hose
below the fitting using a hacksaw or multi-tool, then use a sharp blade to
cut the remaining rubber and expose any wire.  Grab the wire with vise
grips and pull.  Then cut the remaining hose.  Primitive, but effective.

Joel

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 1:25 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List
 wrote:

> The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is
> original on my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This
> was noticed on an insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to
> be of a rubber compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how
> to remove this 2 inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If
> it is just rubber it could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in
> the construction. Have not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so
> with a full tank of diesel. After the removal , then there is the question
> of finding a replacement. Suggestions requested please.
> Harold
> Celtic Spirit
> Hamilton, ON
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I used a knife and razor blade and made longitudinal cuts until it was weakened 
and can be pulled off.

Also, another very important item to replace is your old propane hose--these 
are seldom picked up in a boat survey and will disintegrate like other rubber 
hoses!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - hull #230)
Blog: dainyr...@blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 1:25 PM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is original 
> on my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This was noticed 
> on an insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to be of a rubber 
> compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how to remove this 2 
> inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If it is just rubber 
> it could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in the construction. 
> Have not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so with a full tank of 
> diesel. After the removal , then there is the question of finding a 
> replacement. Suggestions requested please.
> Harold
> Celtic Spirit
> Hamilton, ON
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List hoses

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

I replaced the head discharge hoses on my 35-3 a couple weeks ago.  Someone
(not sure if it was C or the previous owner) had used fuel hoses for that
on mine.  There is definitely a wire coil in there, and after a few decades
on the boat the hoses were very reluctant to go anywhere.  I used an old
pair of wire cutters (think these
) to dig
into the rubber and cut the wire strands, being careful not to scrape up
the plastic attachments.  It was tedious and probably not the best
solution, but after a lot more work than it probably should have taken, I
got the hoses off without damaging the fittings.

I bet someone here can give you a better answer than that, but it worked
for me...

Sam
C 35-3
SF

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 10:25 AM, patricia barkley-higginbottom via
CnC-List  wrote:

> The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is
> original on my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This
> was noticed on an insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to
> be of a rubber compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how
> to remove this 2 inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If
> it is just rubber it could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in
> the construction. Have not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so
> with a full tank of diesel. After the removal , then there is the question
> of finding a replacement. Suggestions requested please.
> Harold
> Celtic Spirit
> Hamilton, ON
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List hoses

[patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List]

The diesel fuel filler hose, running from tank to deck fitting, is original on 
my 35-3. It is badly cracked and in need of replacement. This was noticed on an 
insurance survey at the ten year interval. It appears to be of a rubber 
compound. I find it impossible to move. Any hints as to how to remove this 2 
inch external hose without damage to the end fittings. If it is just rubber it 
could be cut but wonder if there is a metal spiral in the construction. Have 
not tried heat on the ends and am leery of doing so with a full tank of diesel. 
After the removal , then there is the question of finding a replacement. 
Suggestions requested please.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
Hamilton, ON ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed - pics

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That was no gator.  That was the project supervisor!!  He was about 10-12
feet.  He's been hanging around the marina a few weeks now.

I've also added pics to the Google Drive folder of the foam block I made
this morning for the under counter top insulation.

Made a cardboard form, pour foam, cut to desired thickness with my slick
Japanese pull saw, and then cut from the form with a large knife.

If you've never used a pull saw, they're a treat.  The teeth face opposite
of a standard saw.  It cuts when pulling rather than pushing.  No more
bending saws.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 11:59 AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I particularly enjoyed the shot of the gator in the bayou. :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C List" 
> *Cc: *"Josh Muckley" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, April 19, 2016 10:30:27 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed - pics
>
>
> Congratulations on successfully sharing pictures!  Oh and congratulations
> on having cold beer!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 19, 2016 10:05 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> OK,
>>
>> I'm still new at sharing via drive but try this link:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsVnpsaWp0SldMOUk
>>
>> I have another Drive folder with 80 pictures of the project.  Figured
>> that was too many for most.  This abridged folder contains most of what the
>> project involved.
>>
>> One thing I haven't completed is insulating the ice box lid and under the
>> counter-top.  The 35-1 lid and counter-top are just plywood.  I'm adding an
>> inch and a half or so insulation to the bottom of each.
>>
>> The counter-top insulation will simply be pour foam.  I'll make a
>> cardboard form and pour the foam into it.  I'll just trim it to size and
>> stick it under the countertop with 5200.
>>
>> The lid insulation is more involved.  I bought a cheap baking pan, coated
>> it with mold release compound and made a fiberglass shell.  After a bit of
>> manipulation and painting, I'll glue it to the bottom of the lid, run a
>> bead of paintable sealant around the edge, paint it and use it.  Pics of
>> that sub-project are in the folder.  Look for pics with "Lid" in the name.
>>
>> The only change I would have made might have been to install the
>> compressor athwartships to save about 6 inches of the shelf in the cockpit
>> locker.  Otherwise, I'm pretty pleased with the project.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed - pics

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I particularly enjoyed the shot of the gator in the bayou. :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List"  
To: "C List"  
Cc: "Josh Muckley"  
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 10:30:27 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed - pics 



Congratulations on successfully sharing pictures! Oh and congratulations on 
having cold beer! 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Apr 19, 2016 10:05 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



OK, 

I'm still new at sharing via drive but try this link: 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsVnpsaWp0SldMOUk 

I have another Drive folder with 80 pictures of the project. Figured that was 
too many for most. This abridged folder contains most of what the project 
involved. 

One thing I haven't completed is insulating the ice box lid and under the 
counter-top. The 35-1 lid and counter-top are just plywood. I'm adding an inch 
and a half or so insulation to the bottom of each. 

The counter-top insulation will simply be pour foam. I'll make a cardboard form 
and pour the foam into it. I'll just trim it to size and stick it under the 
countertop with 5200. 

The lid insulation is more involved. I bought a cheap baking pan, coated it 
with mold release compound and made a fiberglass shell. After a bit of 
manipulation and painting, I'll glue it to the bottom of the lid, run a bead of 
paintable sealant around the edge, paint it and use it. Pics of that 
sub-project are in the folder. Look for pics with "Lid" in the name. 

The only change I would have made might have been to install the compressor 
athwartships to save about 6 inches of the shelf in the cockpit locker. 
Otherwise, I'm pretty pleased with the project. 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 





___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed - pics

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Congratulations on successfully sharing pictures!  Oh and congratulations
on having cold beer!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 19, 2016 10:05 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> OK,
>
> I'm still new at sharing via drive but try this link:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsVnpsaWp0SldMOUk
>
> I have another Drive folder with 80 pictures of the project.  Figured that
> was too many for most.  This abridged folder contains most of what the
> project involved.
>
> One thing I haven't completed is insulating the ice box lid and under the
> counter-top.  The 35-1 lid and counter-top are just plywood.  I'm adding an
> inch and a half or so insulation to the bottom of each.
>
> The counter-top insulation will simply be pour foam.  I'll make a
> cardboard form and pour the foam into it.  I'll just trim it to size and
> stick it under the countertop with 5200.
>
> The lid insulation is more involved.  I bought a cheap baking pan, coated
> it with mold release compound and made a fiberglass shell.  After a bit of
> manipulation and painting, I'll glue it to the bottom of the lid, run a
> bead of paintable sealant around the edge, paint it and use it.  Pics of
> that sub-project are in the folder.  Look for pics with "Lid" in the name.
>
> The only change I would have made might have been to install the
> compressor athwartships to save about 6 inches of the shelf in the cockpit
> locker.  Otherwise, I'm pretty pleased with the project.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Bob Caughran via CnC-List]

On Beemer I have a thru hull and seacock under the sink that feeds the head. 
Was fine in lakes but now with seawater it's less than my liking. Always had to 
have seacock closed as would overflow the head on a port tack. 
I plan to plumb from onboard water supply this spring. They have a kit if I 
plumb from
Pressure water side of sink in head. Currently leave the head on dry and pour 
from cup on the sink. Works fine and no odors. 

Bob
Beemer, 29mkii, 309

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 10:04 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
> boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.
> 
> The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.  The 
> discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard 
> discharge).
> 
> It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink 
> drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh 
> water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the 
> sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull 
> seacock open, I could pump raw water into the head.
> 
> Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

The drain line from my vanity sink (with check valve) is teed into the intake 
for the head. You do your business, wash your hands (you all do that, right?) 
and the sink water leaves a layer in the head that seems to cut down on odors.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List  
Date:04/19/2016  9:08 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing 

Hi Ken,

If the just gets casual use, an inline ball float check valve might prevent the 
unintended washing. From that annoying port hand basin.

This is similar to what I was thinking about, but it doesn't have the ball so 
the seal isn't as good. 
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/th-marine-inline-scupper-valve

 Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk1

At 04:10 AM 19/04/2016, you wrote:
The head sink is so far outboard in the C 37+ that it will inflood if you are 
sailing on your ear.

That is how we (accidentally) washed out the heads a couple of times now.  We 
now close the head sink through hull when we know we will be hard over on 
starboard tack.

The other two sinks (galley and forward stateroom) are close enough to the 
centre line to not be an issue.

Ken H.___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Actually, you just need to have the T in the sink drain well below the 
waterline and near the seacock.

 

My vanity sink is on the port side, and I do notice that I get air trapped in 
the inlet line to the head after being heeled to starboard while sailing. I 
presume that air gets into the line from the sink drain when the heeled 
waterline drops on the port side and some air gets trapped in the high point of 
the inlet line. Takes a few extra pumps to get the air out of the line and 
water flowing completely after the boat returns to the normal lines. 

 

I probably should change the hoses and lower the location of the T as much as 
possible, but it really isn’t a high priority change since a few extra pumps 
isn’t a real problem.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 9:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

 

I am actually thinking about re-plumbing my head this way; however, I am not 
sure how well it would work for using the outboard water. In order to pump 
water into the head, you need some suction, but with the sink drain on the 
other end of the run, you should suck in mostly air. I guess you need to have 
the drain closed by a stopper, don’t you?

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List vc-tar removal

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   I've always used diesel fuel for removing tar.
  
 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List vc-tar removal

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Hi all.   Am completing some repairs of Windstar's bottom and am at the
stage of fairing the glasswork.   I need to remove the vc-tar from the
gelcoat to create about a 4" clean margin around the repair, so that the
tar does not contaminate the fairing epoxy.  I have read all kinds of stuff
online about doing the entire bottom, however this is not in scope this
season.   I need only to remove the vc-tar from a few areas.
Sanding makes a mess, clogs the paper, and requires enough aggression
to hit the gelcoat.   Acetone attacks the vc tar and not the gelcoat,  but
makes a dirty wash, and is nasty   Both work, but do not seem to be
ideal.

Thinking of wire cup brush on a grinder, and maybe some kind of gentler
gel paint stripper.   Anyone been down this road?   Many thanks!

Dave

'85 33-2
"Windstar"
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Marek,

I believe the tee would need to be below the water line and the thru 
hull valve would need to be closed to utilize the grey water from the 
sink drain.  So, either way the line would be flooded. If the tee were 
not below the water line, I think the stopper might work for the raw 
water flush.


Danny


On 4/19/2016 9:56 AM, Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List wrote:
Actually, the #2 reason still applies (I guess depending on the 
lake/river). I sail on a river and there is enough organic matter in 
the water that it makes a lot of sense to flush the head with fresh 
water before leaving, even for a few days.
I don’t have this configuration, but I know many people who do. I use 
left over bottled water and it works, as well.
I am actually thinking about re-plumbing my head this way; however, I 
am not sure how well it would work for using the outboard water. In 
order to pump water into the head, you need some suction, but with the 
sink drain on the other end of the run, you should suck in mostly air. 
I guess you need to have the drain closed by a stopper, don’t you?

Any comments on how it works in real life?
Marek
*From:* Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, April 18, 2016 23:17
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Russ & Melody 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

Hi Randy,

This is the way I plumb my head basin & toilet intake many years ago.

The reasons are two-fold, I eliminated an unnecessary thru-hull 
penetration and if we're going to be away form the boat for a couple 
of weeks or more, I pump a 1/2 sink of fresh water through the toilet 
to eliminate standing water containing organics (sea water) which will 
yield a sulphur aroma on first use when we return (due to 
decomposition of said organics).


If you're a lake sailor the reason #2 doesn't apply much. My basin 
drain/toilet intake thru-hull valve stays open when we're aboard, 
sailing or not.


Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 08:04 PM 18/04/2016, you wrote:

Listers-

If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the 
head on my boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.


The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through 
hull.  The discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for 
overboard discharge).


It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity 
sink drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could 
pump fresh water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity 
sink and letting the sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity 
sink drain through-hull seacock open, I could pump raw water into the 
head.


Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

Thanks,
Randy
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If 
you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

they are great, but not that cheap. But you get what you pay for.

Marek

From: Phygital via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 09:52
To: kenhea...@gmail.com 
Cc: Phygital ; cnc-list 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

Thanks Ken. Great consensus around Andrews Trucking. I'll surely contact them 
today.

Thanks all!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

On the 38, both the head and the galley sinks are almost on the centerline so 
it would take a near 90 degree knockdown to have them fill up with water. The 
head, OTOH, is well outboard and the seat is only a couple of inches above the 
waterline – hence the need for the shutoff valve in the inlet line.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 7:10 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

 

The head sink is so far outboard in the C 37+ that it will inflood if you are 
sailing on your ear.

 

That is how we (accidentally) washed out the heads a couple of times now.  We 
now close the head sink through hull when we know we will be hard over on 
starboard tack.

 

The other two sinks (galley and forward stateroom) are close enough to the 
centre line to not be an issue.

 

Ken H.

 

On 19 April 2016 at 02:12, Randy Stafford via CnC-List  > wrote:

Hi Rick,

 

If it's not necessary to close the sink drain seacock when under way, then I 
guess I don't have to.  I just assumed it was a good idea in case at high 
heel/roll angles or when pitching raw water would back into the sink (I saw 
that happen on a Merit 25 once).  I'll check whether my boat has a shutoff 
valve near the head.  The head does have the flush / wet lever of course.  
Thanks all for the responses.

 

Cheers,
Randy

 


  _  


From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "Rick Brass"  >
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 9:49:13 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

 

 

Your head inlet teed to the sink drain is exactly the way my 38 is plumbed. I 
think that arrangement was pretty common in the 70s.

 

My question is why you would close the sink drain seacock when under weigh. 

 

I have a shut off valve in the inlet line between the seacock and the head that 
is near the head, and the lever on the head that is marked “Flush” and “Dry” is 
always left on “Dry” – and either of these should prevent inlet water from 
siphoning into the head when the boat is heeled while sailing. Is your boat 
plumbed with a shutoff valve near the head?

 

Personally, I close all my seacocks a couple of times a year to make sure they 
are moving freely and they remain open the rest of the time; though I know 
there are some on the list who close all the thru hulls when they leave the 
boat for a week or two as insurance against a hose leak. 

 

Rick Brass

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Randy Stafford via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:04 PM
To: cnc-list  >
Cc: randy.staff...@comcast.net  
Subject: Stus-List Head Plumbing

 

Listers-

 

If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.

 

The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.  The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard discharge).

 

It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink drain 
through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water into 
the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink drain.  
When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock open, I 
could pump raw water into the head.

 

Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

 

Thanks,

Randy

 

___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed - pics

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK,

I'm still new at sharing via drive but try this link:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsVnpsaWp0SldMOUk

I have another Drive folder with 80 pictures of the project.  Figured that
was too many for most.  This abridged folder contains most of what the
project involved.

One thing I haven't completed is insulating the ice box lid and under the
counter-top.  The 35-1 lid and counter-top are just plywood.  I'm adding an
inch and a half or so insulation to the bottom of each.

The counter-top insulation will simply be pour foam.  I'll make a cardboard
form and pour the foam into it.  I'll just trim it to size and stick it
under the countertop with 5200.

The lid insulation is more involved.  I bought a cheap baking pan, coated
it with mold release compound and made a fiberglass shell.  After a bit of
manipulation and painting, I'll glue it to the bottom of the lid, run a
bead of paintable sealant around the edge, paint it and use it.  Pics of
that sub-project are in the folder.  Look for pics with "Lid" in the name.

The only change I would have made might have been to install the compressor
athwartships to save about 6 inches of the shelf in the cockpit locker.
Otherwise, I'm pretty pleased with the project.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Marek Dziedzic (hotmail) via CnC-List]

Actually, the #2 reason still applies (I guess depending on the lake/river). I 
sail on a river and there is enough organic matter in the water that it makes a 
lot of sense to flush the head with fresh water before leaving, even for a few 
days.

I don’t have this configuration, but I know many people who do. I use left over 
bottled water and it works, as well.

I am actually thinking about re-plumbing my head this way; however, I am not 
sure how well it would work for using the outboard water. In order to pump 
water into the head, you need some suction, but with the sink drain on the 
other end of the run, you should suck in mostly air. I guess you need to have 
the drain closed by a stopper, don’t you?

Any comments on how it works in real life?

Marek

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 23:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing


Hi Randy,

This is the way I plumb my head basin & toilet intake many years ago. 

The reasons are two-fold, I eliminated an unnecessary thru-hull penetration and 
if we're going to be away form the boat for a couple of weeks or more, I pump a 
1/2 sink of fresh water through the toilet to eliminate standing water 
containing organics (sea water) which will yield a sulphur aroma on first use 
when we return (due to decomposition of said organics).

If you're a lake sailor the reason #2 doesn't apply much.  My basin 
drain/toilet intake thru-hull valve stays open when we're aboard, sailing or 
not.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island

At 08:04 PM 18/04/2016, you wrote:

  Listers-

  If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on my 
boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.

  The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.  The 
discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard discharge).

  It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink 
drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh water 
into the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting the sink 
drain.  When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull seacock 
open, I could pump raw water into the head.

  Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?

  Thanks,
  Randy
  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Phygital via CnC-List]

Thanks Ken. Great consensus around Andrews Trucking. I'll surely contact them 
today.

Thanks all!


/J

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 7:21 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> When we were doing pre-purchase research on our present boat we were able to 
> purchase the factory build file for it from Southshore Yachts (back when they 
> were still selling them - southshoreyachts.com ) and there was an invoice in 
> the file for Andrews Trucking.  From that invoice Andrews was able to tell us 
> which of their trailers they used to deliver the boat from 
> Niagara-on-the-Lake to Halifax back in 1990 when she was built an delivered 
> to the original owner.
> 
> Andrews still had that trailer and it was still being maintained for 
> transport use.  It made it very easy for them to quote on a delivery.
> 
> We ended up sailing the boat instead of trucking it as we had the time and 
> enjoyed the adventure but the Andrews people were very helpful.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
> http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/
> 
>> On 19 April 2016 at 00:58, Phygital via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Thanks all. I plan on calling them tomorrow.
>> 
>> 
>> /J
>> 
>>> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:22 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Another recommend for Andrew's trucking if you end up going that way. They 
>>> did an excellent job moving my boat and they know their C 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C 32
>>> Toronto
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Dennis, ditto for me on the photos...and thank you!

 


Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David Lenehan via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: David Lenehan 
Sent: Tue, Apr 19, 2016 9:43 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed



I'm interested too, Dennis.  Soon to do the same exercise on Sea Mistress.
David
On 19 Apr 2016 23:40, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Dennis — sign me up!


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



On Apr 18, 2016, at 10:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:




I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
beer!!!


Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Josh,

I grabbed the Isotherm 3701 at Defender's annual sale.  Added costs were
~15-18 feet of 10/2 AWG duplex safety wire, a new 15 amp breaker,
miscellaneous connectors, fasteners, etc. probably pushed the cost to
$1450-1500 total.

I also added a new dedicated start battery and combined my 2 Group 29
batteries into a house bank.  That probably added another $175 for the
battery and cables.

The 3701 specs call for 0.65 ah avg and 6 amps max for a reasonably
insulated box up to 7 cu ft.  Off line discussion with Fred Street
indicated that 3 ah average max be more realistic (75 amps/day).  The
combined bank has a reserve of 420 minutes (at 25 amps).  That equates to
about 175 ah or about 2.5 days of refrigeration run time.

I cut a window into a bulkhead on the inboard side of the ice box and found
1 1/8 inch of sheet insulation.  I suspect C glued same around the 4
sides of the box.  No idea if the bottom is insulated.  I had added 3-4
inches of pour foam to the outboard side years ago.  I think Touche' box is
around 6-6.5 cu ft and a bit short of reasonably insulated.

I don't have any battery monitoring capability so I'll just have to learn
through use what the battery draw is.

Dennis

On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 11:13 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Curious of the details.  Cost, A-Hr per day?
>
> Pictures are good too.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Apr 18, 2016 11:20 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.
> Cold beer!!!
>
> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[David Lenehan via CnC-List]

I'm interested too, Dennis.  Soon to do the same exercise on Sea Mistress.

David
On 19 Apr 2016 23:40, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis — sign me up!
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 10:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.
> Cold beer!!!
>
> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dennis — sign me up!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 18, 2016, at 10:19 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
> beer!!!
> 
> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List "The Weekend Sailor"

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

 

Is it not for sale yet?

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 5:39 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List "The Weekend Sailor"

 

The Admiral and  will be at the showing in Newport.   The film, however is
being shown around the country.   Looks very interesting...

.theweekendsailor.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avast.com


 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Ken,

If the just gets casual use, an inline ball float 
check valve might prevent the unintended washing. 
From that annoying port hand basin.


This is similar to what I was thinking about, but 
it doesn't have the ball so the seal isn't as good.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/th-marine-inline-scupper-valve

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk1

At 04:10 AM 19/04/2016, you wrote:
The head sink is so far outboard in the C 37+ 
that it will inflood if you are sailing on your ear.


That is how we (accidentally) washed out the 
heads a couple of times now.  We now close the 
head sink through hull when we know we will be hard over on starboard tack.


The other two sinks (galley and forward 
stateroom) are close enough to the centre line to not be an issue.


Ken H.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[allen via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Please send.  I'm still looking for an optimal location for thermostat control 
and set up for ice cube trays.

Thanks,

Allen Miles
Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 11:19 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed


I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
beer!!!


Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Um, Denise. . .  er, have you had the 'Change'?


Bill Coleman 

 Original message 
From: "Rochester.rr.com via CnC-List"  
Date: 4/19/2016  7:22 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Rochester.rr.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed 

Hi Denise 

Would you send me the link to the pics. 

Thanks 

Brian

Brian Donovan
112 Frisbee Hill Rd 
Hilton NY 14468
(585) 313-1940

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 6:13 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
> Would live to see pictures!
> 
> DannyOn Apr 18, 2016 11:19 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
>> 
>> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
>> beer!!!
>> 
>> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Rochester.rr.com via CnC-List]

Hi Denise 

Would you send me the link to the pics. 

Thanks 

Brian

Brian Donovan
112 Frisbee Hill Rd 
Hilton NY 14468
(585) 313-1940

> On Apr 19, 2016, at 6:13 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
> Would live to see pictures!
> 
> DannyOn Apr 18, 2016 11:19 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
>> 
>> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
>> beer!!!
>> 
>> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 41 Transport

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

When we were doing pre-purchase research on our present boat we were able
to purchase the factory build file for it from Southshore Yachts (back when
they were still selling them - southshoreyachts.com ) and there was an
invoice in the file for Andrews Trucking.  From that invoice Andrews was
able to tell us which of their trailers they used to deliver the boat from
Niagara-on-the-Lake to Halifax back in 1990 when she was built an delivered
to the original owner.

Andrews still had that trailer and it was still being maintained for
transport use.  It made it very easy for them to quote on a delivery.

We ended up sailing the boat instead of trucking it as we had the time and
enjoyed the adventure but the Andrews people were very helpful.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

http://www.racethecape.ca/the-race/entrants/salazar/

On 19 April 2016 at 00:58, Phygital via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks all. I plan on calling them tomorrow.
>
>
> /J
>
> On Apr 18, 2016, at 9:22 PM, Stevan Plavsa  wrote:
>
> Another recommend for Andrew's trucking if you end up going that way. They
> did an excellent job moving my boat and they know their C
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

The head sink is so far outboard in the C 37+ that it will inflood if you
are sailing on your ear.

That is how we (accidentally) washed out the heads a couple of times now.
We now close the head sink through hull when we know we will be hard over
on starboard tack.

The other two sinks (galley and forward stateroom) are close enough to the
centre line to not be an issue.

Ken H.

On 19 April 2016 at 02:12, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> If it's not necessary to close the sink drain seacock when under way, then
> I guess I don't have to.  I just assumed it was a good idea in case at high
> heel/roll angles or when pitching raw water would back into the sink (I saw
> that happen on a Merit 25 once).  I'll check whether my boat has a shutoff
> valve near the head.  The head does have the flush / wet lever of course.
> Thanks all for the responses.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> --
> *From: *"Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Rick Brass" 
> *Sent: *Monday, April 18, 2016 9:49:13 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Head Plumbing
>
>
> Your head inlet teed to the sink drain is exactly the way my 38 is
> plumbed. I think that arrangement was pretty common in the 70s.
>
>
>
> My question is why you would close the sink drain seacock when under
> weigh.
>
>
>
> I have a shut off valve in the inlet line between the seacock and the head
> that is near the head, and the lever on the head that is marked “Flush” and
> “Dry” is always left on “Dry” – and either of these should prevent inlet
> water from siphoning into the head when the boat is heeled while sailing.
> Is your boat plumbed with a shutoff valve near the head?
>
>
>
> Personally, I close all my seacocks a couple of times a year to make sure
> they are moving freely and they remain open the rest of the time; though I
> know there are some on the list who close all the thru hulls when they
> leave the boat for a week or two as insurance against a hose leak.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Randy
> Stafford via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, April 18, 2016 11:04 PM
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* randy.staff...@comcast.net
> *Subject:* Stus-List Head Plumbing
>
>
>
> Listers-
>
>
>
> If you'll humor me again, I'd like to get your comments on how the head on
> my boat (30-1 #7) is currently plumbed.
>
>
>
> The intake hose is teed into the vanity sink drain to its through hull.
> The discharge hose goes to a holding tank only (no Y-valve for overboard
> discharge).
>
>
>
> It's the intake hose I'm wondering about.  I suppose with the vanity sink
> drain through-hull seacock closed, e.g. when underway, I could pump fresh
> water into the head by first pumping it into the vanity sink and letting
> the sink drain.  When not underway, with the vanity sink drain through-hull
> seacock open, I could pump raw water into the head.
>
>
>
> Does that sound reasonable, or is my boat's head intake plumbing screwy?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Randy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bradley,

 

I just re-plumbed my galley sink which has 1” drain hose.  My hull valve is ¾”. 
 I found a ¾” NPT Male to 1” hose Marelon fitting at Fishery Supply (SKU 
177739).  I also replaced the sink drain baskets which required the drain 
basket, a reducer and hose adapter.  All parts were Scandvik.  You may have a 
different size sink drain but it’s woth checking out.

 

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley 
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2016 9:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List Galley sink basket/strainer

 

Last winter when we bought Pulse, the surveyor wrote that every hose on the 
boat should be changed, so I'm working on it. They are original to the boat, 
1985. Replaced the drain hose from the galley sink to the thru hull and crushed 
the little funnel shaped brittle plastic fitting on the bottom of the drain 
basket strainer assembly under the galley sink. Made a quick sweep of all the 
regular websites and can only find a reducing fitting to 3/4 inch. The sink 
drain hose is 1 inch. Don't want to replace the thru hull nor have a 
restriction in that line. Anyone have a suggestion? Maybe there's a domestic 
plumbing fitting I'm missing out on?

Thank you

Brad

"Pulse" 1985 C 33 MkII

Lake Huron

Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.

I'd rather be sailing

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35-1 refrigeration installed completed

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Dennis,
Would live to see pictures!

DannyOn Apr 18, 2016 11:19 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:
>
> I finished installing refrigeration (Isotherm 3701) on Touche' today.  Cold 
> beer!!!
>
> Took a bunch of pictures.  I can send link to any interested listers.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Interior cushions

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

What year are the cushion covers?
My 27 is a 1978 model year, and both the owners manual and the tags on the 
cushion covers (those that are still legible) say dry clean only. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

 Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  wrote: 
I took the covers off of all of my cushions on the 32 and washed those in
the machine at home. I washed them with diluted bleach solution. They
cleaned up very nicely. For the foam I actually went a bit crazy and soaked
them one by one in a kiddy pool filled with bleach/water solution. Then I
let them dry in the sun for up to a week (taking them indoors when it
rained). Was a pain in the butt but they are in much, much nicer condition
now. Cosmetically they were fine, but they stank like 35 year old boat
cushions. Not anymore! I didn't get all the foam bleached/soaked, but did
maybe half (important v-berth, sitting cushions, etc). Did wash all the
covers though.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Mon, Apr 18, 2016 at 2:09 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Paul -
> Every few years I take the covers off and wash them.  Also spray the foam
> to
> reduce odor.  Biggest issue is sometimes the zippers break during the
> pull-off process and I take the piece over to the local shop to repair.
>
> Someday I will replace the foam and covers, just not this day.  Too many
> other priorities.
>
> There's nothing wrong with making due.
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of paul
> taylor via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2016 12:14 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: paul taylor
> Subject: Stus-List Interior cushions
>
> I have a 1977 29-1, original cushions. Does anyone know if the cushions can
> be washed without shrinkage ?
> I was thinking of washing them in an industrial washer with the foam
> inside.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!