Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Propspeed is mostly zinc. The thinking around here is that plain zinc paint
will do the job as well for a fraction of the price. I just painted my
MaxProp with cold galvanizing paint again. It seems to work as well as
anything else I've tried.
Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

phone  +401 965 5260


On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:44 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, my Flexofold prop is painted with a product used by most of the
> commercial fishermen in Eastern NC called Propspeed.
>
>
>
> I don’t know anything about Pettit 1792. But past efforts to use bottom
> paint on a prop have not been very useful. The bottom paint tends to sluff
> off pretty quickly, probably due to cavitation.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
> Whitmore via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2020 8:29 PM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?
>
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C&C 37/40+, and at that time, I
> am changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3
> blade Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running
> gear.  When I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the
> first year, and see how it progresses.
>
>
>
> The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs
> a new bottom job.
>
>
>
> Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for
> that matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for your insights
>
>
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

When I got my C&C 40 I used citrus strip to remove the varnish on my cabin
sole. I then lightly sanded them with 150 and then 180 grit paper and hit
them with a coat of Pettit Clear Sealer. I sanded that lightly with 150
grit then started building up with Epiphanes Gloss Varnish. After three or
four coats I sanded pretty thoroughly to flatten the grain, then added
another 4 coats or so. It still looked very good when I sold the boat 5
years later.
Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

phone  +401 965 5260


On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:37 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bo,
>
> The discoloring is from water.  Tone need to CAREFULLY get down through
> the varnish without messing with the holly sole.
>
> Neil Andersen
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of General Gao
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2020 2:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* General Gao
> *Subject:* Stus-List Teak Maintanance
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below
> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner,
> teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the
> right track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from
> the wood.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Daniel via CnC-List]

Could a card scrapper judiciously applied help in this situation? 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 11, 2020, at 07:10, Andrew Burton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> When I got my C&C 40 I used citrus strip to remove the varnish on my cabin 
> sole. I then lightly sanded them with 150 and then 180 grit paper and hit 
> them with a coat of Pettit Clear Sealer. I sanded that lightly with 150 grit 
> then started building up with Epiphanes Gloss Varnish. After three or four 
> coats I sanded pretty thoroughly to flatten the grain, then added another 4 
> coats or so. It still looked very good when I sold the boat 5 years later. 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:37 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Bo,
>> 
>> The discoloring is from water.  Tone need to CAREFULLY get down through the 
>> varnish without messing with the holly sole.
>> 
>> Neil Andersen
>> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of General Gao via 
>> CnC-List 
>> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 2:55 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: General Gao
>> Subject: Stus-List Teak Maintanance
>>  
>> Hi everyone,
>> 
>> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below 
>> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak 
>> oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right 
>> track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from the wood.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> 
>> Bo
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

HI Chandler

 

Welcome to the world of C&C and this list. We have owned our 82 34 foot for 21 
years and still has the original 3GM with Sendur fresh water cooling and Martec 
2 blade folding prop.  It is operating like new.  Starts right up, runs smooth, 
lots of power to offset wind and tides, economical at ¾ gal per hour, runs all 
day with nary a peep.  Have done what I consider normal maintenance over the 
years including new injectors, new exhaust elbow, service / rebuild pumps, 
annual changing of filters, religious use of biobar and diesel treatment, new 
mounts, clean out heat exchanger, regular change oil and filters.  Did rebuild 
the transmission as was slipping due to my error of not correctly attaching 
shift cable.  If you need this highly recommend a source that really knows 
Yanmars and Kanzaki transmissions – mine is in NJ.  Replaced cables, new 
alternator, new fuel tank (old one was fine but concerned of pin hole leaks).  
All in all would not change this great engine.  My 2 cents American

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Conklin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 9:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Conklin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

 

Hi. Chandler, 

Welcome to the list. I own an 82- standard  37ft has original 3HM 

Very first day out engine overheated. New mixing elbow took care of that  
beyond that and a simple freshwater pump rebuilt runs great! Only issue I have 
is little vibration  so I  try to motor only out of channel and often sail in 
under headsail. I think it’s motor mounts as they look original ?? But beyond 
that I would not change engine or boat:) i love UMA dan can fix anything! 
Unfortunately I am not so savvy on all things boat if I she dies I will go Beta 
for sure !

 

 

John Conklin  

S/V Halcyon

S/V Heartbeat

www.flirtingwithfire.com

 





On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Hi Chandler,

 

Welcome to the list!  While an electric conversion does have its challenges in 
terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this approach 
and would love to go that route at some point and get away from fossil fuel 
based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do so as I have a fully 
functional Westerbeke 20B2 on my C&C 34 and it does have advantages in terms of 
range and power, but I definitely dislike the noise and vibration and use of 
fossil fuel.  Also from an environmental power while not great, this is a 
pretty minor contribution to my overall carbon footprint as I only typically go 
through about 20 gallons a year.

 

There are people who have successfully done electric conversions on 
displacement hull boats of this size and vintage.  Sailing Uma (youtube 
channel) https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke has successfully made their 
Pearson 36 and sailing lifestyle work around a limited electric aux propulsion 
system and solar charging when off grid.  They originally used inexpensive and 
used parts (forklift motor and golf cart batteries) to cobble together a system 
that got them in and out of the harbor.  Later, they upgraded to lithium 
batteries and more recently a sail drive.  From their experience, while the 
sail drive is cool, I am not sure it makes sense on a boat that was designed 
with a shaft going through the hull.  I think the real key is being willing to 
plan around your capability in terms of range and speed.  If you deal with 
large tides like here in the north east then pushing against a current for 
hours might just not be an option with an electric system.  So for us, trying 
to get in and out of our channel for a quick evening sail might not work well 
if I don't want to time it with the tides.  On the other hand if I had an hour 
or so of range at 4 or 5 knots with some to spare, it would be fine (and I 
would actually want to design a system with more like 4-6 hours of range at 5 
knots)

 

One thing I have been told is that the biggest problem with electric 
conversions is that while there are lots of components on the market, nobody is 
building a whole system where they can do the system design and you actually 
get what you are told.  Thus, particularly on newer more expensive boats where 
the owners are expecting equivalent performance to a diesel, they are getting 
disappointed.  Thus, you pretty much have to design the system yourself and run 
your own performance numbers since you will be pairing a battery and motor and 
controller and prop together on your own.  There will be some guess work and 
experimentation involved too and a good understanding of energy and power is 
important.

 

If I do go down this road, I would want a system with pretty good performance 
and range (think $) and would likely buy new components so I would expect to 
put something in the ballpark of 20k into the project (I haven't actua

Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Andy,

I think you may be confusing propspeed with the Pettit 1792.  As I
understand it Propspeed results in an ultra slippery surface which simply
prevents biofouling from having anything to attach to.  A small kit can run
$300.  The Pettit product is according to the label ~55% zinc while
liquid.  But once the solvents evaporate it leaves a very high
concentration of zinc.  A single spray can is ~$30.  The Thiox product I
mentioned earlier is actually Velox and actually releases a biocide.  As
such it is quite likely the most hazardous and unfriendly to the
environment.  It costs ~$100.

Of the three propspeed is just too expensive for me to try.  Between velox
and Pettit, neither seemed particularly better than the other.  And if you
can find cold galvanizing paint for less than $30 then your idea is
probably the best option.

https://propspeed.com/
"Propspeed is a foul release coating, not an anti-foul, so it doesn’t harm
marine life. The top coat on the Propspeed system is an ultra-slick surface
that marine growth can’t grip. Propspeed’s effectiveness does depend on
movement of your boat - the more you use it, the better Propspeed performs.
Propspeed sets itself apart from the competition with the exceptionally
strong chemical and physical bond between the metal substrate, the primer
and the top coat - this ensures that the Propspeed coating actually stays
on your running gear."

https://pettitpaint.com/products/underwater-metal-protection/prop-coat-barnacle-barrier/prop-coat-barnacle-barrier/

Velox
https://www.antifoulingpaint.net/


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Aug 11, 2020, 06:03 Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Propspeed is mostly zinc. The thinking around here is that plain zinc
> paint will do the job as well for a fraction of the price. I just painted
> my MaxProp with cold galvanizing paint again. It seems to work as well as
> anything else I've tried.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 10:44 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> FWIW, my Flexofold prop is painted with a product used by most of the
>> commercial fishermen in Eastern NC called Propspeed.
>>
>>
>>
>> I don’t know anything about Pettit 1792. But past efforts to use bottom
>> paint on a prop have not been very useful. The bottom paint tends to sluff
>> off pretty quickly, probably due to cavitation.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bruce
>> Whitmore via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2020 8:29 PM
>> *To:* C&C List 
>> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?
>>
>>
>>
>> Hello all,
>>
>>
>>
>> We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C&C 37/40+, and at that time,
>> I am changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3
>> blade Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running
>> gear.  When I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the
>> first year, and see how it progresses.
>>
>>
>>
>> The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it
>> needs a new bottom job.
>>
>>
>>
>> Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props
>> for that matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance for your insights
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Mike Rose via CnC-List]

Josh,

I have been using the Pettit product for the last three years on my 
flex-o-fold. The results have been great. I may have 2-3 barnacles on the hub 
when I haul out. I was diving to scrape several times before. Highly recommend 
the product.

Mike Rose
C&C 39
Marblehead, MA

Sent from
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2020 07:16:32 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Andy,
> 
> I think you may be confusing propspeed with the Pettit 1792.  As I
> understand it Propspeed results in an ultra slippery surface which simply
> prevents biofouling from having anything to attach to.  A small kit can run
> $300.  The Pettit product is according to the label ~55% zinc while
> liquid.  But once the solvents evaporate it leaves a very high
> concentration of zinc.  A single spray can is ~$30.  The Thiox product I
> mentioned earlier is actually Velox and actually releases a biocide.  As
> such it is quite likely the most hazardous and unfriendly to the
> environment.  It costs ~$100.
> 
> Of the three propspeed is just too expensive for me to try.  Between velox
> and Pettit, neither seemed particularly better than the other.  And if you
> can find cold galvanizing paint for less than $30 then your idea is
> probably the best option.
> 
> https://propspeed.com/
> "Propspeed is a foul release coating, not an anti-foul, so it doesn?t harm
> marine life. The top coat on the Propspeed system is an ultra-slick surface
> that marine growth can?t grip. Propspeed?s effectiveness does depend on
> movement of your boat - the more you use it, the better Propspeed performs.
> Propspeed sets itself apart from the competition with the exceptionally
> strong chemical and physical bond between the metal substrate, the primer
> and the top coat - this ensures that the Propspeed coating actually stays
> on your running gear."
> 
> https://pettitpaint.com/products/underwater-metal-protection/prop-coat-barnacle-barrier/prop-coat-barnacle-barrier/
> 
> Velox
> https://www.antifoulingpaint.net/
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD

___

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Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[David Hayward via CnC-List]

Hi

Wonder if I have the mast set-up correctly. There are two staniless steel 
straps hanging down port & starboard of the mast. They are bolted to the 
thru-deck fitting, are about 10 inches long and  a bolt hole in the bottom end 
almost aligns with holes in the mast. Purpose and should the hangers be bolted 
to the mast?

Also there's stainless steel rod nth a turnbuckle on the bottom end (in the 
v-berth cabin) that connects the deck to the keel. Purpose and how to tune?

[cid:12ed9786-60b2-4331-99f0-fb7f0593b51e]


Thx
David
https://krazysailing.wordpress.com/
___

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Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

>From what I understand, the commercial guys just spray straight zinc primer

on props and shafts. My boat has Prop Speed from a PO, , but it ridiculously 
expensive, IMHO. I won’t be buying it.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 8:29 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

 

Hello all,

 

We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C&C 37/40+, and at that time, I am 
changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3 blade 
Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running gear.  When 
I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the first year, and 
see how it progresses. 

 

The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs a 
new bottom job.

 

Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for that 
matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?

 

Thanks in advance for your insights

 

Bruce Whitmore

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Yes, absolutely, they should have a bolt passing through them and through
the mast.  One long bolt is fine, washers and a self locking nut work
well, the bolt doesn't have to be tight, just not loose. If you find the
strap holes are a bit too high to get the bolt through them and the mast
try releasing the tension on ALL your halyards and the holes should line up.

The halyards and other lines coming down the mast turn in blocks attached
to the mast collar casting (partners) to run back to your line stoppers and
winches.  This creates an upward force on the deck at the mast collar,
trying to lift the deck up.  The resulting load on the mast collar and deck
is transferred back to the mast by these straps.

The other rod is probably attached to the baby stay track (assuming you
have a baby stay.  It should be just snug, or perhaps have just a slight
bit of tension when the baby stay is slack.

Ken H.

On Tue, 11 Aug 2020 at 10:03, David Hayward via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Hi
>
> Wonder if I have the mast set-up correctly. There are two staniless steel
> straps hanging down port & starboard of the mast. They are bolted to the
> thru-deck fitting, are about 10 inches long and  a bolt hole in the bottom
> end almost aligns with holes in the mast. Purpose and should the hangers be
> bolted to the mast?
>
> Also there's stainless steel rod nth a turnbuckle on the bottom end (in
> the v-berth cabin) that connects the deck to the keel. Purpose and how to
> tune?
>
>
>
>
> Thx
> David
> https://krazysailing.wordpress.com/
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

Chandler,
Sounds like more like their diesel than hate it . . . .
Last year our 34 had, it turned out, no compression in one cylinder and the 
repair required the engine come out (not enough space under the cockpit), which 
meant the boat had to come out  .  . so several thousand dollars just to 
diagnose, let alone repair.  I hate the vibration of a diesel, and the engine 
was 40 years old and very smelly, so I was not excited about just rebuilding 
it, but irregardless – 10 thousand dollars would not have surprised me.
So I went over to try electric.
Thunderstruck makes a complete sailboat package, and for about 4 thousand 
dollars we had all the parts needed.  Then, of course the old engine had to 
come out and labor to fit the new one and close up the thru-hulls, etc. We used 
the existing prop and shaft.
I used four of your typical deep cycle marine batteries (rather than a serious 
battery bank), so for 500 dollars we had 48 volts.  Then a battery charger and 
the Key to the program – a Slip – for Plug-In  . . . . .
I’m relying on a full charge when we go out but our plan is only limited trips 
in and around Buzzards Bay.  If we broaden our horizon in a couple of years, 
then more battery capacity will likely be needed.
So, our C&C 34 has more torque now and No Diesel Smell and nice smelling 
cushions and virtually no vibration and minimal noise, etc.
The down side of course is range, but I’m a sailor at heart, and will wait it 
out when we get becalmed.  Buzzards Bay very seldom is windless.
Our plan now is to find a small generator (Christmas List) and put it in the 
‘engine room’ as ‘insurance’ when and if needed.
So far – Happiness reigns . . . .
A friend here at Edson with a Luders 33 installed the same Thunderstruck 10KW 
himself and is very happy with it.  He has a wind vane on a pole, and charges 
with his prop when sailing, so he keeps batteries up while on a mooring.
Rob Ball
C&C 34
Escapade
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

David,
When the boat is sailing and heels over the shrouds and mast combination try 
really hard to squeeze the two sides of the boat together and the deck to lift 
up (off).  It is VERY important to hold the deck down, and those straps are to 
be bolted so the deck is held down.  If the holes don't align with the holes in 
the mast, then you can see that the deck is already rising up . . .  not good.
With shrouds released try to get them aligned, but if it's impossible you can 
create new holes in the straps an inch higher and then matching holes in the 
mast.
The down rod in the Vee berth is there to take the load of the Baby Stay up on 
deck. I'd tension it to a 'comfortable' amount.
Rob Ball
C&C 34
Escapade


From: David Hayward 
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 9:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?



Hi

Wonder if I have the mast set-up correctly. There are two staniless steel 
straps hanging down port & starboard of the mast. They are bolted to the 
thru-deck fitting, are about 10 inches long and  a bolt hole in the bottom end 
almost aligns with holes in the mast. Purpose and should the hangers be bolted 
to the mast?

Also there's stainless steel rod nth a turnbuckle on the bottom end (in the 
v-berth cabin) that connects the deck to the keel. Purpose and how to tune?

[cid:image001.jpg@01D66FC1.F77EEC70]


Thx
David
https://krazysailing.wordpress.com/
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Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

David:

The two SS straps are your 'mast tangs'.they are very 
importantthey keep your deck from lifting from the upward pull of 
halyards connected to your mast collar.   They should be bolted to your 
mast just as you step your mast before the rigging is tensioned.  If you 
attempt if after the rig is tensioned, the holes in the tangs and mast 
may not line up.  Same thing with any halyards, don't have any halyards 
tensioned pulling up the deck. Since your mast is keel stepped, you can 
safely back off all the rigging and try to line the holes up.


The v-berth SS rod with a turnbuckle is used in a similar way as your 
mast tangs.to off set the upward pull of your babystay from where 
the babystay connects to the deck.  I am of course now assuming you have 
a babystay.  Same with the mast tangs, no tension on the babystay.  
Tighten the v-berth SS rod's turnbuclke until the rod feels tightdo 
not over tension it as you will pull the deck down.


Trusting this is helpful.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 8/11/2020 10:02 AM, David Hayward via CnC-List wrote:



Hi

Wonder if I have the mast set-up correctly. There are two staniless 
steel straps hanging down port & starboard of the mast. They are 
bolted to the thru-deck fitting, are about 10 inches long and  a bolt 
hole in the bottom end almost aligns with holes in the mast. Purpose 
and should the hangers be bolted to the mast?


Also there's stainless steel rod nth a turnbuckle on the bottom end 
(in the v-berth cabin) that connects the deck to the keel. Purpose and 
how to tune?





Thx
David
https://krazysailing.wordpress.com/

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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Matthew via CnC-List]

Ken explained it well.  FYI, I had the same straps on my 1978 34.

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Hayward
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 9:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Hayward 
Subject: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

 

 

 

Hi

 

Wonder if I have the mast set-up correctly. There are two staniless steel
straps hanging down port & starboard of the mast. They are bolted to the
thru-deck fitting, are about 10 inches long and  a bolt hole in the bottom
end almost aligns with holes in the mast. Purpose and should the hangers be
bolted to the mast? 

 

Also there's stainless steel rod nth a turnbuckle on the bottom end (in the
v-berth cabin) that connects the deck to the keel. Purpose and how to tune?

 



 

 

Thx

David 

https://krazysailing.wordpress.com/

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Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

I have been using the Interlux lower unit coating. Works fine.

 

From: Bill Coleman  
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 9:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

 

>From what I understand, the commercial guys just spray straight zinc primer

on props and shafts. My boat has Prop Speed from a PO, , but it ridiculously 
expensive, IMHO. I won’t be buying it.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 8:29 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

 

Hello all,

 

We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C&C 37/40+, and at that time, I am 
changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3 blade 
Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running gear.  When 
I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the first year, and 
see how it progresses. 

 

The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs a 
new bottom job.

 

Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for that 
matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?

 

Thanks in advance for your insights

 

Bruce Whitmore

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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[David Risch via CnC-List]

I did a new head gasket et al on my 3QM 30.  Not hard.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 12:06:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?


Unless you only want to be able to move around the marina, electric is not a 
viable option. 36 pounds of gas will take me 36 miles. 36 pounds of batteries 
would probably get me out of the slip, over to the fuel dock, and back to my 
slip.

Get the engine repaired for FAR less than it would cost to fill your boat with 
batteries.





Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I

www.dellabarba.com







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fitteral 
Mindspring via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fitteral Mindspring 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?



Hello all,



I am on the precipice of being C&C owner and already have a question (actually 
several).



I am purchasing a 1981 C&C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs a new 
head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I am 
pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The quiet, 
green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing to me.  
Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a rebuild of a 40 
yr old engine and transmission isn’t terribly appealing to me.  Another aspect 
of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don’t have any experience 
working with marine diesels.  While I am always interested in learning, I feel 
that marine diesels is perhaps a learning rabbit-hole I could avoid.



I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat with 
the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an occasional 
longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages at this time). 
 I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.



I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home, 
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring solar, 
regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while underway.



The C&C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which we 
need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing them.  
There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel engine so 
would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.



Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this 
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the 
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to go 
with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the electric.



Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat is 
in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my season 
is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from installers 
from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.



Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it’s a relatively big 
decision.



Thank you in advance,

Chandler Rohal

TBD

C&C 36

Rockaway Park, NY
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have been following this topic for a while as I would love to ditch diesel 
someday if practical.  A number of companies besides Thunderstruck make 
electric conversion kits for boats.  Nigel Calder has been researching and 
writing about this topic for some time in Sail Magazine.  There is a series of 
articles there and here is a useful example discussing battery needs:
https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/the-price-of-power

I suspect the merits of this possibility may change as lithium batteries get 
better and hopefully cheaper.  I was turned off to the idea electric on a 
sailboat after listening in on a VHF emergency call to the Coast Guard last 
summer of someone with a fire in their lithium battery compartment that they 
could not put out.  But now it seems they have come up with new lithium 
batteries not susceptible to fire when in contact with water.  So I think this 
is an evolving topic with rapid innovation especially driven by electric cars.  
A friend of mine recently installed a Tesla solar battery system for his house  
and loves it. We lost power for 5 days after the hurricane and he barely 
noticed.  I just ordered a new electric motor for my dinghy, which I will 
report back on when it arrives and I have had a chance to use it some.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 11, 2020, at 9:20 AM, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chandler,
> Sounds like more like their diesel than hate it . . . .
> Last year our 34 had, it turned out, no compression in one cylinder and the 
> repair required the engine come out (not enough space under the cockpit), 
> which meant the boat had to come out  .  . so several thousand dollars just 
> to diagnose, let alone repair.  I hate the vibration of a diesel, and the 
> engine was 40 years old and very smelly, so I was not excited about just 
> rebuilding it, but irregardless – 10 thousand dollars would not have 
> surprised me.
> So I went over to try electric.
> Thunderstruck makes a complete sailboat package, and for about 4 thousand 
> dollars we had all the parts needed.  Then, of course the old engine had to 
> come out and labor to fit the new one and close up the thru-hulls, etc. We 
> used the existing prop and shaft.
> I used four of your typical deep cycle marine batteries (rather than a 
> serious battery bank), so for 500 dollars we had 48 volts.  Then a battery 
> charger and the Key to the program – a Slip – for Plug-In  . . . . .
> I’m relying on a full charge when we go out but our plan is only limited 
> trips in and around Buzzards Bay.  If we broaden our horizon in a couple of 
> years, then more battery capacity will likely be needed.
> So, our C&C 34 has more torque now and No Diesel Smell and nice smelling 
> cushions and virtually no vibration and minimal noise, etc.
> The down side of course is range, but I’m a sailor at heart, and will wait it 
> out when we get becalmed.  Buzzards Bay very seldom is windless.
> Our plan now is to find a small generator (Christmas List) and put it in the 
> ‘engine room’ as ‘insurance’ when and if needed.
> So far – Happiness reigns . . . .
> A friend here at Edson with a Luders 33 installed the same Thunderstruck 10KW 
> himself and is very happy with it.  He has a wind vane on a pole, and charges 
> with his prop when sailing, so he keeps batteries up while on a mooring.
> Rob Ball
> C&C 34 
> Escapade
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

Check out the you tube sailing channel “Sailing Uma”.  About a younger couple 
with a Pearson 36 they converted to electric and have sailed throughout the 
Bahamas, up the eastern US coast and across the Atlantic and are currently in 
the Netherlands.  They have interesting videos about their experience with an 
electric motor, might be worth the watch for you and your decision making.

Cheers,
Brad Crawford
C&C 36 “Dora Pearl”
Seattle



Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:40 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I am going to be a bit contrary in my reply. I applaud your interest in 
> converting to electricity (as I have had that thought process), but after 
> just replacing the cylinder head on my two cylinder Yanmar, you may be 
> attempting a larger job than necessary.
>  
> A diesel is a simple engine. It is like an old car engine. Assuming it turns 
> over (which apparently it does as it overheats) what may be wrong is similar 
> to what I just experienced. Mine was overheating to the point where it would 
> not run. Repair, replace, new or used? Researching the options, I decided 
> that I would pull the head off and take a look.  I have some engine building 
> experience, but on Volkswagen and Porsche engines. A VW engine is also simple 
> as is a Porsche four cylinder. I figured a simple overhead valve diesel would 
> not be a killer project and it was not. Once the head is off (which was not 
> easy because of 40 years of rusty fasteners), the only thing needed to be 
> done to the block was to make sure the water passages were clear. That was 
> not easy because the engine was still in the boat and the working area was a 
> hassle. My old knees didn’t like me. I had to buy a new cylinder head as mine 
> was cracked (about a quarter inch between the exhaust valve and the injector) 
> where it would not be easy to weld. The new cylinder head was not cheap but 
> came complete with the valves installed, so it was rather simple to mount it. 
> Make sure you have the valves timed with the pistons and adjusted, and it 
> ran! Gat a new set of hoses, as the old ones never seem to go on as easy as 
> they come off. And, all the auxiliary stuff just bolts back on. I didn’t have 
> to realign anything, or build new mounts, design anything or figure out the 
> weights or any of that. And the cost was less than half of another old ‘take 
> out’ with questionable history and 1/10 or less than conversion to a new 
> diesel (counting things like exhaust system, prop, shaft, wiring, etc.)..
>  
> Just another viewpoint.
>  
> Gary Nylander, 30-1, 2QM15
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Fitteral 
> Mindspring via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Fitteral Mindspring fitte...@mindspring.com subject: Stus-List Repowering 
> a C&C 36 to Electric?
>  
> Hello all, 
>  
> I am on the precipice of being C&C owner and already have a question 
> (actually several). 
>  
> I am purchasing a 1981 C&C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has the 
> original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs a 
> new head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I am 
> pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The 
> quiet, green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing 
> to me.  Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a rebuild 
> of a 40 yr old engine and transmission isn’t terribly appealing to me.  
> Another aspect of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don’t have 
> any experience working with marine diesels.  While I am always interested in 
> learning, I feel that marine diesels is perhaps a learning rabbit-hole I 
> could avoid. 
>  
> I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat 
> with the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an 
> occasional longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages 
> at this time).  I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible. 
>  
> I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home, 
> however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring 
> solar, regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while 
> underway.
>   
> The C&C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which 
> we need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing 
> them.  There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel 
> engine so would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy. 
>  
> Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this 
> conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the 
> primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to 
> go with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the 
> electric. 
>  
> Also, if anyone recommendations f

Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

… through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and 
expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.

I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a 
short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
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Re: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dave,

The broker is the seller's agent.  Treat him/her accordingly.  Find a boat,
make an offer subject to survey, use survey to renegotiate a price, enjoy.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 10:57 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> … through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and
> expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.
>
> I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a
> short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.
>
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

I was thinking it was insanity to repower with electric until Rob Ball 
posted...obviously much respect for him.Still, I think if you have diesel 
smell, overheating, excessive vibration, etc., it is a maintenance issue. I 
have none of that.Of course any combustion engine will have some vibration.  
But excessive vibration is a signal that something else is going on...motor 
mounts, shaft alignment, shaft issues, cutlass bearing, transmission, 
prop...something is misaligned. I could not trade the ability to travel for 
hours under power if necessary for safety (or to outrun the black flies)to 
eliminate some vibration.  And those who know me know I sail if at all 
possible.I would make repairs.Remember, advice is free and you get what you pay 
for.Bill Walker 1981 CnC 36Pentwater, Mi. 49449
#yiv7409313550 #yiv7409313550 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} #yiv7409313550 
#yiv7409313550 p.yiv7409313550MsoNormal, #yiv7409313550 
li.yiv7409313550MsoNormal, #yiv7409313550 div.yiv7409313550MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} #yiv7409313550 a:link, 
#yiv7409313550 span.yiv7409313550MsoHyperlink 
{color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv7409313550 
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div.yiv7409313550WordSection1 {} #yiv7409313550 ___

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Re: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

You can select your own broker as a buyers agent and submit your offer thru 
your agent.  When a buying agent is used the commission is split between the 
buyer agent and the seller agent.  Having a broker act as your buyer agent 
protects your interest while the seller agent protects the sellers interest.

We purchased Persistence this way in 2014.  Was good because I personally knew 
the broker I used and he had connections in the seller’s area.  Made my life a 
whole lot easier

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via 
CnC-List
Sent: August 11, 2020 11:57 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

… through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and 
expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.

I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a 
short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I would personally go insane owning an electric sailboat.

I love the rumble and slight vibration of a diesel engine.  It reassures me and 
makes me feel all warm and cozy.

Having a motor with a limited range that could die at any time due to lack of 
battery power and need to be at a dock to next recharge would just put me on 
edge when going anywhere.  I can always carry more fuel and get more fuel but 
do not always have the time or availability to dock a boat and recharge.

That is just me.  Tesla has managed to make some very excellent cars that do 
not seem to have this problem.

One other thing is that if we all started having electric drives in our boats 
our marina managers would increase electricity charges to all of us.  Our 
dockmaster once pointed out to me that our pricing model for electricity was 
set up around members having C&C 30’s that used electricity only to recharge a 
house battery and only occasionally.  Give him one more excuse to charge extra 
for electricity and he would be all over it like a sailor is all over rum ….

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of WILLIAM WALKER via 
CnC-List
Sent: August 11, 2020 12:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: WILLIAM WALKER 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

I was thinking it was insanity to repower with electric until Rob Ball 
posted...obviously much respect for him.
Still, I think if you have diesel smell, overheating, excessive vibration, 
etc., it is a maintenance issue. I have none of that.
Of course any combustion engine will have some vibration.  But excessive 
vibration is a signal that something else is going on...motor mounts, shaft 
alignment, shaft issues, cutlass bearing, transmission, prop...something is 
misaligned.
I could not trade the ability to travel for hours under power if necessary for 
safety (or to outrun the black flies)to eliminate some vibration.  And those 
who know me know I sail if at all possible.
I would make repairs.
Remember, advice is free and you get what you pay for.
Bill Walker
1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi. 49449

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Re: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Don't get emotionally attached to a boat that you like. There's always
another one available. Decide on what you want to use it for: racing;
cruising; family time on the water. Then decide what size fits your needs.
Look at various boats on Yachtworld.com to get an idea what's available,
and familiarize yourself with different brands. Do you want to get involved
with other owners with the same brand of boat? Finally, when you think you
know which boat you want, and you've made an offer, make it contingent on
the survey results.
.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 7:57 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> … through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and
> expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.
>
> I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a
> short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.
>
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!4jZIGBdMWucNxKdMtOhS9-BRybk359lzLWrufZCNhpAgbo2AqK8X_SuqheXSVTaLEuk$
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

My two cents.  I like my diesel, but if a repower becomes necessary, I'd love 
to go all the way and replace the shaft and cutless bearing and strut with an 
electric saildrive.  A saildrive has a lot less drag.  But the cost is just too 
high right now to justify and range is still an issue unless there is a huge 
solar panel setup to constantly charge the batteries.

C



> On 08/11/2020 11:16 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> I would personally go insane owning an electric sailboat.
> 
>  
> 
> I love the rumble and slight vibration of a diesel engine.  It reassures 
> me and makes me feel all warm and cozy.
> 
>  
> 
> Having a motor with a limited range that could die at any time due to 
> lack of battery power and need to be at a dock to next recharge would just 
> put me on edge when going anywhere.  I can always carry more fuel and get 
> more fuel but do not always have the time or availability to dock a boat and 
> recharge.
> 
>  
> 
> That is just me.  Tesla has managed to make some very excellent cars that 
> do not seem to have this problem.
> 
>  
> 
> One other thing is that if we all started having electric drives in our 
> boats our marina managers would increase electricity charges to all of us.  
> Our dockmaster once pointed out to me that our pricing model for electricity 
> was set up around members having C&C 30’s that used electricity only to 
> recharge a house battery and only occasionally.  Give him one more excuse to 
> charge extra for electricity and he would be all over it like a sailor is all 
> over rum ….
> 
>  
> 
> Mike Hoyt
> 
> Persistence
> 
> Halifax, NS
> 
>  
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Fitteral Mindspring via CnC-List]

Thank you Edd.  You (among others) have convinced me to scrap the idea of a 
rebuild.  I was focused on getting a boat which had a engine that I don’t have 
to worry about.  The Beta seems like a great solution for roughly the same cost 
of the rebuild.  There are a lot of fans of the Beta out there which is 
reassuring.  

 

In an effort to salvage my season, I am going to try to resolve the overheating 
issue without pulling the engine, which will give me a little more time to 
ponder and shop for a permanent replacement solution.  

 

I haven’t given up the electric solution but do respect and understand that the 
pitfalls are not insignificant and that I may have to wait until the technology 
gets there…if I need to replace it before a viable solution is available (which 
may be next week), the Beta is likely the way I’ll go.

 

Thank you for taking the time to respond to my question.  

-Chandler

 

From: Edd Schillay  
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 5:14 PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

 

Chandler,

 

Welcome to the list and congratulations on your new boat. 

 

While electric may be the more “green” way to go in the long (really long) run, 
in my opinion, don’t do it. Between the cost of an electric motor that’s big 
enough, removing the fuel tank, and purchasing the many (MANY) lithium 
batteries to drive it, you will find the cost overwhelming. Pushing a C&C 36, 
especially through some chop, takes a lot of juice. When you’re at the dock, 
shore power could top you off, but I don’t think any solar or wind generator 
would keep up with the demand. Do your research. While it may be good for a 
boat in the 20-30 ft range, I just don’t think we are there yet technology-wise 
for heavier displacement boats. 

 

So on to the diesel. For the most part, diesel engines are pretty easy to 
maintain — just keep to a schedule of oil changes, filter changes strainer 
cleaning, impeller checks, etc. There’s plenty of literature and videos on 
YouTube on maintaining your engine. Yes, problems can occur, but mechanics are 
also very easy to find.

 

Suggest you do not do a rebuild or buy someone’s rebuilt engine. In my 
research, I have found that rebuilds aren’t always to spec and you’re just 
buying what could be a temporary band-aid. Instead, consider a repower with a 
brand new engine. You could spend big bucks on a replacement Yanmar, but odds 
are you’ll save a ton with a Beta with the same mounts — which is a marine-ized 
Kubota engine.  And I also suggest keeping the current shaft/prop 
configuration. 

 

I did a repower in 2015 from a Universal M35 to a Beta 30. Been great.  


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the Starship Enterprise

C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 








 






 

On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:54 PM, Fitteral Mindspring via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Hello all,  

 

I am on the precipice of being C&C owner and already have a question (actually 
several).  

 

I am purchasing a 1981 C&C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs a new 
head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I am 
pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The quiet, 
green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing to me.  
Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a rebuild of a 40 
yr old engine and transmission isn’t terribly appealing to me.  Another aspect 
of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don’t have any experience 
working with marine diesels.  While I am always interested in learning, I feel 
that marine diesels is perhaps a learning rabbit-hole I could avoid.  

 

I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat with 
the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an occasional 
longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages at this time). 
 I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.  

 

I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home, 
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring solar, 
regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while underway.

  

The C&C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which we 
need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing them.  
There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel engine so 
would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.  

 

Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this 
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the 
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Stephen Kidd via CnC-List]

I can't speak to electric for a larger vessel, but we switched from an 8hp
Honda outboard to an e-propulsion Navy 3 on our 25 mkII at the start of the
season. It has been great so far, and is practically silent. That did take
a little getting used to. Range anxiety is less than the fuel and carb
anxiety. We seldom motor more than 3-5 NM, and use about 1/3 of the Navy
battery each outing. We charge it up while getting the boat ready or after
a sail (or general boat work) since we neither have nor want to install AC
power onboard.

We're considering getting a Honda e2000 to have a sort of hybrid system if
we ever decide to go further out. A similar strategy might be feasible for
a larger boat. In the meantime, not having any fuel on board is very nice.
No exhaust fumes going downwind is also great.

We went through Annapolis Hybrid Marine, and they have been fantastic!

I do like diesels, but electric is working out to be a great replacement
for a noisy gas outboard. Best improvement since new sails!

- Stephen


On Tue, Aug 11, 2020, 12:44 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My two cents.  I like my diesel, but if a repower becomes necessary, I'd
> love to go all the way and replace the shaft and cutless bearing and strut
> with an electric saildrive.  A saildrive has a lot less drag.  But the cost
> is just too high right now to justify and range is still an issue unless
> there is a huge solar panel setup to constantly charge the batteries.
>
> C
>
>
> On 08/11/2020 11:16 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I would personally go insane owning an electric sailboat.
>
>
>
> I love the rumble and slight vibration of a diesel engine.  It reassures
> me and makes me feel all warm and cozy.
>
>
>
> Having a motor with a limited range that could die at any time due to lack
> of battery power and need to be at a dock to next recharge would just put
> me on edge when going anywhere.  I can always carry more fuel and get more
> fuel but do not always have the time or availability to dock a boat and
> recharge.
>
>
>
> That is just me.  Tesla has managed to make some very excellent cars that
> do not seem to have this problem.
>
>
>
> One other thing is that if we all started having electric drives in our
> boats our marina managers would increase electricity charges to all of us.
> Our dockmaster once pointed out to me that our pricing model for
> electricity was set up around members having C&C 30’s that used electricity
> only to recharge a house battery and only occasionally.  Give him one more
> excuse to charge extra for electricity and he would be all over it like a
> sailor is all over rum ….
>
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Mast Head Light

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have an XL so the mast was built by Offshore Spars.  Our mast had this
Anchor Light from the factory: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7vdD6LvEpCYKMuD78

We have since replaced it with an Aqua Signal LED combined TriColour /
Anchor Light.

Ken H.

On Mon, 10 Aug 2020 at 09:43, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You're welcome!  Just be careful, I've heard some people have Hella lights
> not aqua signal.  I don't know if the Hella lights are aftermarket or not.
>
> Josh
>
> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 08:36 Rob Hamlin  wrote:
>
>> Great info thanks Josh
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 9, 2020, at 10:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> My original lights were all Aqua Signal Series 40.
>>
>> On my boat.  The original tri-color and anchor light were all in a single
>> masthead unit.
>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVAHW0/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_wCkmFbVDBV65Y
>>
>> I replaced with 2 different LED bulbs.
>> Tri-color:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/
>>
>> Bow/stern/anchor:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
>>
>> I for the anchor light marinebeam makes an innovative product which has a
>> photo sensor.  It turns the anchor light off in the daylight.  This is what
>> I bought instead of the bow/stern/anchor link above.
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/
>>
>>
>>
>> The steaming light/foredeck light combo is an aqua signal 25.
>>
>> https://www.aquasignal.com.au/shop/masthead-topp/series-25-masthead-foredeck/
>>
>>  I initially replaced the bulbs.
>> Steaming:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/30-led-44mm-dimple-barrel-end-festoon-for-aqua-signal-navigation-lights-fs-44-30b/
>>
>> Foredeck:
>>
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/high-powered-ba9s-deck-steaming-light-led-ba-9s-5w/
>>
>> Later, I ultimately replaced the entire unit with this:
>> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 9, 2020, 20:07 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi
>>> To avoid two trips up the stick, know of a replacement LED bulb in kind
>>> for the mast head light?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Rob
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Fitteral Mindspring via CnC-List]

Hi Nathan,

 

Thank you for sharing your thoughts, very insightful and helpful.  The more I 
research, the more I realize that it’s going to be a stretch to implement a 
well-designed electric solution on a boat that I am just becoming familiar 
with.  And, as you point out, there aren’t many full systems on the market and 
certainly none that are going to drop into my 40-year old boat with its 
customizations that I don’t even fully understand yet. That being said, I am an 
engineer by education (although very rusty at this point), so I embrace the 
challenge of designing a sustainable solution.  The sailing Uma folks 
definitely have further stoked my interest in the topic as potentially 
feasible.  As they fully acknowledge, however, they have nothing to do but to 
plan their trips around the weather and the tides, a world that most of us 
don’t live in.

 

I roughed out a similar number which I presume will only get bigger.  
Fortunately, due to the fact that the problems with the current engine occurred 
on the sea trial, I was able to recoup some money from the purchase price to 
sponsor a portion of the refit.  Given the fact that I am going to need time 
design a solution, I am going to try to get the current engine to run with 
minimal capital investment (i.e. DIY) to buy me a little time to figure out a 
permanent way forward.  If the current engine gives up the ghost before I can 
come up with something that’s going to work, I’ll likely go with a Beta which, 
to me, seems to be a great fallback.  

 

I’ll keep you posted as I progress through this journey and will certainly pass 
along any epiphanies that I have (or come across).  

 

Again, thank you for sharing your ideas and experience,

Chandler

 

From: Nathan Post  
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 6:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

 

Hi Chandler,

 

Welcome to the list!  While an electric conversion does have its challenges in 
terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this approach 
and would love to go that route at some point and get away from fossil fuel 
based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do so as I have a fully 
functional Westerbeke 20B2 on my C&C 34 and it does have advantages in terms of 
range and power, but I definitely dislike the noise and vibration and use of 
fossil fuel.  Also from an environmental power while not great, this is a 
pretty minor contribution to my overall carbon footprint as I only typically go 
through about 20 gallons a year.

 

There are people who have successfully done electric conversions on 
displacement hull boats of this size and vintage.  Sailing Uma (youtube 
channel) https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke has successfully made their 
Pearson 36 and sailing lifestyle work around a limited electric aux propulsion 
system and solar charging when off grid.  They originally used inexpensive and 
used parts (forklift motor and golf cart batteries) to cobble together a system 
that got them in and out of the harbor.  Later, they upgraded to lithium 
batteries and more recently a sail drive.  From their experience, while the 
sail drive is cool, I am not sure it makes sense on a boat that was designed 
with a shaft going through the hull.  I think the real key is being willing to 
plan around your capability in terms of range and speed.  If you deal with 
large tides like here in the north east then pushing against a current for 
hours might just not be an option with an electric system.  So for us, trying 
to get in and out of our channel for a quick evening sail might not work well 
if I don't want to time it with the tides.  On the other hand if I had an hour 
or so of range at 4 or 5 knots with some to spare, it would be fine (and I 
would actually want to design a system with more like 4-6 hours of range at 5 
knots)

 

One thing I have been told is that the biggest problem with electric 
conversions is that while there are lots of components on the market, nobody is 
building a whole system where they can do the system design and you actually 
get what you are told.  Thus, particularly on newer more expensive boats where 
the owners are expecting equivalent performance to a diesel, they are getting 
disappointed.  Thus, you pretty much have to design the system yourself and run 
your own performance numbers since you will be pairing a battery and motor and 
controller and prop together on your own.  There will be some guess work and 
experimentation involved too and a good understanding of energy and power is 
important.

 

If I do go down this road, I would want a system with pretty good performance 
and range (think $) and would likely buy new components so I would expect to 
put something in the ballpark of 20k into the project (I haven't actually 
designed and specect a system yet so that is just a rough guess but figure $10k 
for the batteries (~20 kWh), and $10k for motor (~8 kW), controll

Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List]

>
> I've often wondered the same regarding the masts straps, my guess is to
> hold the mast onto the step below which I know is a requirement for the Mac
> race. However unlike on your setup mine doesn't have the thru bolts on teh
> collar so it actually does nothing.



> The rod in the v-birth is to support the baby stay. On my 35-3 there is no
> adjustment below decks as the baby stay is on a track that provides tension
> when slid in and out.
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Re: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[Jeffrey Brideau via CnC-List]

I’m under contract on a yacht through brokerage right now for the first
time. I can give you guidance on the 1st half of the process.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 10:57 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> … through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and
> expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.
>
> I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a
> short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.
>
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My 36 XL came with a baby-stay and an adjustable track on the foredeck. It also 
had the rod connection to the hull or mast--forgot which since it has now been 
removed (when I removed the track) since it was a PITA for tacks with a large 
genoa.
However, even with the track, as you pump up the back-stay tension, the baby 
stay/track is in tension trying to pull the track/mast up/back. Thus if the 
baby stay is used to provide mast bend/mainsail shape, I think you should keep 
the rod attached.
OTOH, I am not a naval architect and I did not sleep at a Holiday Inn last 
night!
Charlie NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36 XL/kcb


-Original Message-
From: Luke Wolbrink via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Luke Wolbrink 
Sent: Tue, Aug 11, 2020 2:34 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 34: why hangers on thru-deck mast fitting?


I've often wondered the same regarding the masts straps, my guess is to hold 
the mast onto the step below which I know is a requirement for the Mac race. 
However unlike on your setup mine doesn't have the thru bolts on teh collar so 
it actually does nothing.
 

The rod in the v-birth is to support the baby stay. On my 35-3 there is no 
adjustment below decks as the baby stay is on a track that provides tension 
when slid in and out. 
___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Chandler,
Glad that my ramblings were useful.  Honestly, I do think that electric
systems are the way of the future and with an engineering background it
should be entirely doable for you.  I am a mechanical engineer and work
wind wind energy so I have a pretty good grasp of the fundamentals although
I am no expert in batteries and controllers - in any case feel free to run
things by me if you want.  Sounds like an exciting project and I would love
to follow along and see what you decide.  I also didn't know that Rob Ball
had converted his 34 to electric so that is encouraging and a nice data
point!  Starting with a good motor and controller and some cheap batteries
that can be upgraded later could be a good way to go.  Maybe I'll start
putting together the specs for a system for my boat this winter ...

Anyhow, if you can limp the old engine along, getting to head out and sail
your new boat a this season while you figure it out sounds like a great
plan.  Definitely the best to get out sailing and then see what things you
want to change/improve.  I suggest you invest in a US Tow Boat gold
membership (something like $250/year I think) so if your engine dies and
there is no wind you can get a tow back home without breaking the bank.

BTW, Stu (who manages the list) requests that we all trim out the previous
messages from our replies so as not to fill up the list server storage
faster than required (otherwise every message gets stored multiple times).

Nathan

S/V Wisper

1981 C&C 34

Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

I’m a Yacht Broker.  Feel free to reach out to me directly off-line.

n...@sjyachts.com

Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jeffrey Brideau via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 3:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeffrey Brideau
Subject: Re: Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

I’m under contract on a yacht through brokerage right now for the first time. I 
can give you guidance on the 1st half of the process.

On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 10:57 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
… through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and 
expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.

I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a 
short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

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Stus-List Redo top deck mk1 30

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Good afternoon sailors
It seems I’m not going sailing this year
Anyone in my area I can jump aboard
To keep the love of sailing

Here my  question
After ripping the bad Fiberglass and redoing back to where it at
Is better to paint the boat or finish with gelcoat
Anyone has done that in the past?
Any pro and cons
Is there one that last more the other?
Also in the cockpit instead of two little drain
Is it better to put a bigger or longer drain at the door?
Has cnc made better drain in younger models
?
Joël
Whistler 2 mk1 30 1973
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

Electric power is HUGELY dependent on what you expect to do with your 
boat. I just got back from taking my boat to the yard. That was 4 hours 
at 6.5 knots. If I had enough batteries to do that with electricity I 
could forgo the keel. It wouldn't be unusual for us to cover 60-80 miles 
under power in a day on a cruise and one memorable trip - for bad 
reasons - we motored from Annapolis to Long Island sound. When you have 
2 or 3 weeks vacation, someplace to be, and no wind forecast for days on 
end electric isn't going to work at all. It wasn't real fun, but we got 
to see all of Long Island Sound and actually had 30 knots on the beam 
from Block Island to Cape May going home :)


OTOH some people live where there is a consistent breeze and only need 
to get in and out of a marina or mooring field. Electric is great for that.


Joe

Coquina


On 8/11/2020 3:51 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:

Chandler,
Glad that my ramblings were useful.  Honestly, I do think that 
electric systems are the way of the future and with an engineering 
background it should be entirely doable for you.  I am a mechanical 
engineer and work wind wind energy so I have a pretty good grasp of 
the fundamentals although I am no expert in batteries and controllers 
- in any case feel free to run things by me if you want.  Sounds like 
an exciting project and I would love to follow along and see what you 
decide.  I also didn't know that Rob Ball had converted his 34 to 
electric so that is encouraging and a nice data point!  Starting with 
a good motor and controller and some cheap batteries that can be 
upgraded later could be a good way to go.  Maybe I'll start putting 
together the specs for a system for my boat this winter ...


Anyhow, if you can limp the old engine along, getting to head out and 
sail your new boat a this season while you figure it out sounds like a 
great plan.  Definitely the best to get out sailing and then see what 
things you want to change/improve.  I suggest you invest in a US Tow 
Boat gold membership (something like $250/year I think) so if your 
engine dies and there is no wind you can get a tow back home without 
breaking the bank.


BTW, Stu (who manages the list) requests that we all trim out the 
previous messages from our replies so as not to fill up the list 
server storage faster than required (otherwise every message gets 
stored multiple times).


Nathan

S/V Wisper

1981 C&C 34

Lynn MA


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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C&C 36 to Electric?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Function of electric power aside, unless one is exclusively connected to
shore power, you need a big array of solar panels. To my eye, they ruin the
beauty that a C&C design presents.

With regards to electric power with a sail drive, I would not want a hunk
of aluminum stuck in salt water, a hunk with the need to replace a gasket
on a regular schedule. Much more involved than changing the strut bearing
and packing.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

On Tue, Aug 11, 2020 at 7:13 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Electric power is HUGELY dependent on what you expect to do with your
> boat. I just got back from taking my boat to the yard. That was 4 hours at
> 6.5 knots. If I had enough batteries to do that with electricity I could
> forgo the keel. It wouldn't be unusual for us to cover 60-80 miles under
> power in a day on a cruise and one memorable trip - for bad reasons - we
> motored from Annapolis to Long Island sound. When you have 2 or 3 weeks
> vacation, someplace to be, and no wind forecast for days on end electric
> isn't going to work at all. It wasn't real fun, but we got to see all of
> Long Island Sound and actually had 30 knots on the beam from Block Island
> to Cape May going home :)
>
> OTOH some people live where there is a consistent breeze and only need to
> get in and out of a marina or mooring field. Electric is great for that.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
> On 8/11/2020 3:51 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Chandler,
> Glad that my ramblings were useful.  Honestly, I do think that electric
> systems are the way of the future and with an engineering background it
> should be entirely doable for you.  I am a mechanical engineer and work
> wind wind energy so I have a pretty good grasp of the fundamentals although
> I am no expert in batteries and controllers - in any case feel free to run
> things by me if you want.  Sounds like an exciting project and I would love
> to follow along and see what you decide.  I also didn't know that Rob Ball
> had converted his 34 to electric so that is encouraging and a nice data
> point!  Starting with a good motor and controller and some cheap batteries
> that can be upgraded later could be a good way to go.  Maybe I'll start
> putting together the specs for a system for my boat this winter ...
>
> Anyhow, if you can limp the old engine along, getting to head out and sail
> your new boat a this season while you figure it out sounds like a great
> plan.  Definitely the best to get out sailing and then see what things you
> want to change/improve.  I suggest you invest in a US Tow Boat gold
> membership (something like $250/year I think) so if your engine dies and
> there is no wind you can get a tow back home without breaking the bank.
>
> BTW, Stu (who manages the list) requests that we all trim out the previous
> messages from our replies so as not to fill up the list server storage
> faster than required (otherwise every message gets stored multiple times).
>
> Nathan
>
> S/V Wisper
>
> 1981 C&C 34
>
> Lynn MA
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Insurance Provider?

[Dean McNeill via CnC-List]

I‘m in process of purchasing a 1980 C&C 34 but I’m being held up by insurance 
provider. 

My broker (specializing in marine insurance) has sent the clean survey and all 
details to the insurance provider. Was supposed to be 2 days for approval… it’s 
now stretching into 4 days and we can’t get a response from provider. I can’t 
do a deal unless I know I can get vessel insured. Any insurers/brokers that you 
think are great and responsive so I can get this deal done?

A little leery of trying the online quote-and-go options but maybe I should? 
Any good redo’s?

I’m in Halifax, Nova Scotia if that matters.

Dean

smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME cryptographic signature
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Re: Stus-List First Virtual Rendezvous

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Sorry I missed the "rendezvous ".Won't miss the next. Keep me on the invited 
list Jim schwartzSEA YA!Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Stu via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/3/20  9:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C Email List 
 Cc: Stu  Subject: Stus-List First 
Virtual Rendezvous 


Our 1st virtual zoom rendezvous was an absolute success.  People that 
showed an interest were sent a personal invitation to participate.  Owners 
from the West Coast, East Coast, Gulf of Mexico, New England and Canada 
participated.
 
Basically, it was a greet and meet and then an open discussion and some 
great, varied conversations took place.
 
This was a first for us and maybe for boating enthusiasts world-wide.
 
I am planning another rendezvous in the near future and would like some 
suggestions.  Should it be just a greet and meet and then open discussion 
or should we narrow in on a specific topic.  Let me know your ideas.
 
Stu
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