Re: Stus-List FOR SALE: C Mark I in Port Angeles, WA $16,000

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Walker,

What’s your new boat?  I’m a bit of a C junkie, we’ve had a 27 and now a 
35-II, so I sent your email out to the cruising club.

Hope that helps, Lee


> On Aug 13, 2020, at 9:05 01AM, Walker Mellema via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I'm moving up to a bigger boat and so I must sell my C 30 Mark I. The 
> Endeavour was a great first boat for me and I've added some upgrades in the 3 
> years I've owned her. She is rigged for single handed sailing and in good 
> condition. She is currently located in Port Angeles, WA and priced to sell.
> 
> You can see all the details in my Craigslist posting here: 
> https://olympic.craigslist.org/boa/d/port-angeles-cc-30-mark-for-sail/7159346912.html
>  
> <https://olympic.craigslist.org/boa/d/port-angeles-cc-30-mark-for-sail/7159346912.html>
> 
> Please contact me if you have any questions.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Walker Mellema
> 360-565-6835
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

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Re: Stus-List Lifting an outboard

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Rockland.

Not a great idea if not in calm water, but I used to set the motor on the lip 
of the metal toerail, get in the dinghy and then carefully move it to the 
dinghy transom, but that wasn’t a 61lbs OB!

Might need a halyard, BUT the halyard will want to swing the OB to the mast.  A 
line to the stern might help control it, and after a few tries you can sort out 
the length to get to the dinghy tied up mid-ship.

This might help:  
https://www.pbo.co.uk/practical-projects/outboard-engine-hoist-19209

We’ve loaded the OB onto the dinghy in 2’ of chop with a good crane - a little 
scary with it flying around above me, but good to get it on the dinghy, and 
keep us off the rocks.  Considering how many times we have motored our big boat 
with the dinghy, the crane probably rates as essential gear. The Mercury 15 is 
heavy!

Good luck, Lee


> On Jul 29, 2020, at 5:00 43PM, rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm sure this has been covered many times sailors but I'm racking my brain on 
> this one. With my old 3hp 2-stroke ~36lb I'd lay it on the side of my Pearson 
> and then sling it over the rail onto the mount. I now have a 4hp 4-stroke 
> (61lb) and a 37/40. (I know I should have gotten the 6hp) The Garhauer radar 
> davit 
> <https://www.garhauermarine.com/transom-hardware-accessories/radar-towers-accessories/radar-tower-lifting-davit-rt-ld-short.html>
>  that would attach to my radar pole could be an answer but there's little 
> room between the bimini and the railing and it won't arrive before we cruise. 
> Any good techniques out there?
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Rockland Bazemore
> S/V Blue Pearl
> C 37/40+
> Port Washington, NY
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

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Re: Stus-List EV100 Wheel Pilot clutch

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi David,

Didn’t work for me. . .

Curious, Lee


> On Jul 23, 2020, at 9:51 22AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here is a diagram that shows where to lube the clutch eccentrics:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HNjG3Nxe0HabHO0ivSHWfduGj0Kd6VM3/view?usp=sharing
>  
> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HNjG3Nxe0HabHO0ivSHWfduGj0Kd6VM3/view?usp=sharing>
> 
> Let me know if there are problems viewing it.  Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

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Re: Stus-List 2020 C Rendezvous: Cancel due to COVI

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

And I was sure you were older!

> On Jul 14, 2020, at 5:54 40PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm almost 63. But I act 24. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

______
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

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Stus-List Vhf radio install and sales

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I never understood your email address till today, but think it should be 
captnsells@,  or maybe that one was taken?

Ha, Lee

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 1:30 05PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The VHF radio is the one thing I tend to upgrade frequently.  I think I'm on 
> my 3rd or 4th fixed VHF since 1999.  In my opinion, it's the single most 
> important piece of safety equipment on the boat.  
> 
> I upgraded when Standard Horizon came out with RAM's.  I upgraded when they 
> added AIS.  I didn't mind re-running the RAM cable for each upgrade.   Like 
> others, I like a RAM with the capability of shooting 25 watts into the sky.  
> I also have a Standard Horizon HX870 handheld.  
> 
> I think Touche' has a Standard Horizon Matrix GX2000 right now.  So far I've 
> resisted the urge to upgrade to the GX2400 because Touche' is still a NMEA 
> 0183 boat.
> 
> I do see an advantage to a VHF that has GPS built in.  If your primary GPS 
> dies, you can still send a DSC distress call with location.  
> 
> Used VHF's sell readily on eBay.  I've sold several.  Years ago, one of my 
> clients wanted to upgrade to a VHF with a RAM.  I did so, giving him a credit 
> for his old VHF.  I sold the old, still very nice, VHF to another client, got 
> paid for the install.  I sold the VHF from the second client on eBay.  I made 
> money 3 times and each client got upgraded.  Win, win, win, win!
> 
> As for brand preference, I tend to favor Standard Horizon but really don't 
> have any significant reason for that.  I think ICOM is also a very reliable 
> brand.  I had an ICOM handheld for years and it worked fine.  It, too, got 
> sold on eBay.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

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Re: Stus-List C 35 about to be scrapped in Pensacola, FL

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis or Paul,

Can someone please take a few PICTURES of the poor 35-II to be scrapped, and 
not just debate about a stripe/star?  Info please?

Yea, I have a 35-II,and can’t afford to buy any parts right now, but it would 
be really nice to see what boat/parts they are talking about, not just a 
missing star! 

Argh, Lee




> On Jun 30, 2020, at 3:54 33PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Was it Touché?  :)
> 
> I saw it last week but thought it was a 34. 
> 
> If anybody wants me to look at it for parts, let me know.  I deal with Mike 
> at Southern Cross often. Touché is docked about 2 blocks away. I drive past 
> it on my way to my slip. 
> 
> I should be there next week. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 30, 2020, at 4:45 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I went looking around a marine salvage yard today and came across a 1974 C 
>> 35 (CCY353221174) which is about to be parted.  The vessel did not look 
>> damaged so I asked about it.   The owner of the yard (Southern Cross 
>> Salvage) said that it is being scrapped because there is no vessel title.  
>> Seems odd.  While it is well aged and a bit neglected, this would be a good 
>> chance for 35-1 owners to get some original parts.
>> 
>> Southern Cross Ships Chandlery
>> 103 Myrick St
>> Pensacola, FL 
>> 
>> (850) 377-1776
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C Landfall 38 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/>


__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

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Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

 use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> -- 
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C LandFall 39
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
__
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Maybe a large, better quality jpg can be added to the website info. . .



> On Jun 10, 2020, at 7:38 16PM, david--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am not sure this picture will be small enough for the list. When I bought 
> my 35-2, I found a memo from C in the nav  table saying the maximum back 
> stay tension is 2050 pounds
> 
> 
> 
> David Kelly
> Baraka C 35-2
> Noroton, CT
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 6:13 PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Bailey
>> 
>> I have one of those earlier C 35 Mk2 ('74 #255) and have not tried to 
>> attach the bulkheads to the overhead.  She does work in heavy air.  Two 
>> years ago the original outboard holding tank failed, which I had to remove 
>> by dismantling the head's bulkheads and cabinetry.  I replaced all screws 
>> with slightly larger ones since more than 50% were missing or stripped.  I 
>> put a new holding tank under the v berth and replaced all the screws connect 
>> the glass to the wood cabinetry in the forward cabin - 75 % were missing or 
>> backed out.  We are not shy about pushing her hard in the last 40 years I 
>> have raced her. Last year hit 11.8 kts in a double-hander spin run.  She 
>> does creak and grown.  The most annoying thing is the head door will not 
>> stay close and bangs open when we are working her hard.  About ten years ago 
>> I did an experiment at the dock of running a line from pulpit to pulpit 
>> (weight and small block at bow for constant tension) and ran the backstay up 
>> to 3000 psi - the line rose 2" up the mast (original unbending, telephone 
>> pole mast).  The most tension I will put on backstay when sailing in very 
>> heavy air is 2200 - 2500 PSI.  Since we still compete in the top 10% of PHRF 
>> races, I have no intention of changing the original set up.
>> 
>> Don Kern
>> Fireball, C Mk2
>> Bristol RI
>> 
>> On 6/10/2020 12:07 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Has anyone added material to tie the bulkheads to the liners for those 
>>> earlier boats?  I wasn't sure if the liner could take it or if some work 
>>> would need to be done to grind out the liner and fiberglass directly to the 
>>> hull laminate, which would be more involved and error prone.
>>> 
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Rob Ball mailto:r...@edsonintl.com>>
>>> To: Shawn Wright mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>>, 
>>> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2020 12:39:15 +
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rob Ball comment on 41 "robustness"
>>> Earlier C’s had the bulkheads ‘floating’ in the headliner groove, and as 
>>> we got into larger sizes (bigger loads) those tie downs were the solution.
>>> 
>>> On the C 40, there were a lot of warranty claims for those leaks, and 
>>> eventually it was decided to stiffen up things to prevent this.  The first 
>>> boat was the new C 35 and the bulkheads were ‘tabbed’ to the deck – much 
>>> stiffer . . . . BUT . . . . it meant that the headliner, which is installed 
>>> on the deck when it’s upside down, had to leave space for the tabbing after 
>>> the deck is placed on the hull.  And then those spaces had to be covered up 
>>> with separate pieces to blend with the headliner after the tabbing . . . . 
>>> Much more labor and cost . . .
>>> 
>>> But – a much stiffer boat – the sailmakers loved the straighter headstay  . 
>>> .
>>> 
>>> Victory by the designer over the accountants . . . .
>>> 
>>> The downside, other than cost is that when you hit a rock – the damage is 
>>> more extensive, because the boat is now actually more brittle  . . .
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Rob Ball   C 34
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.

Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

So send us a pic or link - searching for cold in a covid year doesn’t work!   



> On May 20, 2020, at 4:28 29PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When faced with seized metal joints sometimes alternating heat and cold 
> helps. There’s a spray COLD blaster.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 20, 2020, at 5:26 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two 
>> additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB 
>> Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS 
>> bolts, steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so 
>> after applying PB Blaster. One loose, the flange rotated without much 
>> trouble, but I didn't remove entirely due to clearance issues, so I aborted 
>> my plan of removing the transmission. Cleaned up threads on flange and bolts 
>> with tap & die and re-installed with nickel anti-seize.
>> PB Blaster is my top choice for penetrant, having used it successfully on 
>> many very stuck fasteners over the years.
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, May 20, 2020 at 1:29 PM John Christopher via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>> Thanks for all of your gracious feedback, approaches, and experiences.
>> 
>> Checked to see if there were multiple set screws, etc. everything looks good 
>> from that standpoint.
>> 
>> Removal continues to be an issue. I left the puller on the coupler with 
>> pressure. Put some penetrating oil in the set screw holes and shaft entry, 
>> taped Over holes, and rotated shaft. Said an “our father” Prayer and left 
>> for a day. I’ll be back at the boat tomorrow. Next consideration will be 
>> cutting and replacing shaft and coupler :(.
>> 
>> Launch is approaching fast with access to marinas now open...
>> 
>> Wanna go sailing :). 
>> 
>> 
>> /John
>> 
>>> On May 20, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Bill Coleman >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Also, sometimes there is a set screw on top of the set screw for those who 
>>> like a belt and suspenders approach.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Bill Coleman
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>>> ] On Behalf Of Paul Fountain via 
>>> CnC-List
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:49 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Cc: Paul Fountain; John Christopher
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> John,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Done this twice, and it’s getting done now, the first time, used a socket 
>>> aligned with the prop shaft and bought some Grade8 bolts long enough to go 
>>> then the coupling halves, and kept evenly tightening them to press the 
>>> shaft out ... every time the set screw hole got to the top we added 
>>> penetrating oil. Two days, and two of us working on it it came off. Put in 
>>> a drip less then.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Second time, I cut the coupler piece on the shaft with a Dremel tool and 
>>> replaced it. This was as part of an engine replacement.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> This year, 17 years later, the dripless needs to be serviced so have a 
>>> mechanic doing it, shafts released as of today, the first time I have been 
>>> allowed to visit the boat this spring.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Where abouts are you in Ontario?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Paul Fountain
>>> Perception II
>>> 1985 C 33-II k/cb
>>> Port Credit Yacht Club
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List >> > on behalf of John Christopher via 
>>> CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2020 7:23:17 PM
>>> To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>>> Cc: John Christopher mailto:phygi...@gmail.com>>
>>> Subject: Stus-List Coupler removal to install Dripless Shaft Seal
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> All
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I’m trying to install a a PSS shaft seal on my 1983 Landfall 38.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> got reasonable access to V-Drive transmission , got everything ready , but 
>>> could not for the life of me remove shaft coupler , its really stuck on 
>>> shaft , and of course I need to be able to remove the shaft partially from 
>>> boat to install the dripless . 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I used everything I had including a 5 ton puller on shaft coupler using an 
>>> impact gun on the puller bolt screw at one point and it never budged AT 
>>> ALL. I Heated coupler with electric heat gun still never moved ..cant use 
>>> gas torches because the transmission seal is right there and it will get 
>>> ruined.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Everything requires removing coupler first to proceed foward with dripless.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Boat is freshwater all it’s life, and I know they are dissimilar metals (SS 
>>> Shaft, steel 

Re: Stus-List Seattle Marina fire

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I’ve spent some time at that marina, and looking at the news photo last night, 
about 6 boat houses burned at the base of the ramp.  So powerboats, nothing 
with a mast on that side.  Small sailboats closer to shore may have some damage.

Thanks for checking in, Lee
___
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle 


> On Mar 28, 2020, at 5:17 08PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hopefully no listers boat(s) are in the Harbor Island Marina fire in Seattle.
> 
> Dennis C.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

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Re: Stus-List wire-to-rope vs rope - sheaves!

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

https://www.zephyrwerks.com/mastheadsheaves.html
___



> On Mar 11, 2020, at 8:46 11AM, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I went all rope (main and Genoa) around 2008 on the original (1977) aluminum 
> sheaves. Had no problems for about 5 years. I rebuilt the masthead sheave box 
> in about 2013 with custom delrin  sheaves from the guy in Port Townsend 
> (can’t remember the name of the company)
> 
> Sam Salter
> C 26  Liquorice 
> Ghost Lake  Alberta 
> 
>> On Mar 11, 2020, at 9:02 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
> 
> 
> My wire to rope jib halyard dates back to the 1980s and has some nasty meat 
> hooks. I have several all rope halyards that were given to me and have sat 
> inside my shed for years. I used the old wire halyard to pull one through and 
> my original thought was to get another one made. This does raise an obvious 
> question – why not just use the rope?
> My fear is that since the sail usually only comes down once a year if that, 
> the rope will get chewed through on the masthead shiv. Is this an issue?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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Re: Stus-List My outboards.. - fuel stories

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Not Coast Guard approved, but I used to do some interesting trips on a 19’ Cape 
Dory Typhoon, with an English Seagull outboard.  We used a couple one gal red 
plastic fuel cans, and then filled a couple bicycle water bottles with fuel, 
for daily use.  It was easier to squirt in a little fuel when needed, than 
fight even the one gal. fuel tanks which always made a mess.  Epic fun trips on 
the old boat. . . 

Pulled into Friday Harbor early, and Arnold marched into the office and 
announced he’d be filling his starboard tanks, slapping down his gold amex 
card.  The fuel boy came trotting down to the boat, just as I put the one gal. 
tanks on the dock, glared at me and said fill them yourself!  

Ha!


___
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle 


> On Dec 16, 2019, at 9:33 48AM, randal johnston via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The brand is “No Spill”. Real mixed reviews on amazon.  Seems the company has 
> been bought out, newer products aren’t lasting.  I was looking at just the 
> spout, as I have plenty of small motor cans, but it seems the cap size is 
> proprietary and won’t fit other brand cans.
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/No-Spill-6131-Gas-Nozzle-Assembly/dp/B001QCZQ7I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=no+spill+spout=1576517560=sporting-goods=1-2
>  
> <https://smile.amazon.com/No-Spill-6131-Gas-Nozzle-Assembly/dp/B001QCZQ7I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=no+spill+spout=1576517560=sporting-goods=1-2>
> 
> randy
> 29-II
> Tamanawas
> Hood River, OR
> 
>> On Dec 16, 2019, at 8:53 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Doug,
>> 
>> What brand is it?
>> 
>> My beef is mainly with the ones where you have to push the spout to pour.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:11 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I didn’t think this was going to be a controversial topic, but I have a 
>> “No-Spill” (that brand) gas can I use for my snowblower/lawn mower and I 
>> think it is great.  I have had it for years and don’t spill any fuel using 
>> it. You can control the flow rate by how far you push the button.  I am 
>> planning to get the smaller (1.25 gal) version for my dinghy/outboard since 
>> I invariably spill some gas filling the outboard tank with the bellows style 
>> and always end up with fuel on my hands in the process.  Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 16, 2019, at 9:47 AM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Got them all running myself.  Great learning process and a 
>>> heck-uva-lot-cheaper than sending out to an “expert”.
>>>  
>>> For the little one with an internal tank.  Re-filling fuel is always a 
>>> messy process.  Thinking of plumbing in an external tank or purchasing a 
>>> “Spill-Proof” gas can.
>>>  
>>> Any experience with either?  Thanks!
>>>  
>>> David F. Risch
>>> (401) 419-4650
>>>  
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> ___
>> 
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>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Early 30 MK I HINs Revisited-now PHRF review

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Dear Sir,

RE:  Randy Stafford  S/V Grenadin   C 30 MK I #79  LISTED as Hull #7

I have put in a request for an immediate PHRF review of your boat.  With over 
70 shipyard refinements, it’s clear now, why your boat is so fast, and only 
right that your rating reflect the changes you failed to document.  I expect 
the board will want to question you very carefully about the additional changes 
to your boat over and above the documented 1972 norms.  I have suggested that 
the penalty not be limited to just changing a PHRF number, but the monetary 
fine should reflect the price of the current boat you have chosen to race.  
Perhaps if you raced a newer more expensive boat, you would be disinclined to 
perpetrate this excessive winning streak, which is depressing both the local 
fleet and the attendance of future sailors to the sport.  You should hear from 
the PHRF board by the end of the month.

Regretfully, Lee   
Yea, cold and wet in Seattle 


> On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:31 09AM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers-
> 
> When I was buying my 30 MK I (HIN 30007972) four years ago, I came to the 
> conclusion she was hull number 7 laid up in September 1972, I think based on 
> this old post: 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2012-April/044412.html 
> .
> 
> Meanwhile a discussion arose recently in the Facebook C Owners Group where 
> a guy asked how to decode HIN 30002672.  I emailed Rob Ball hoping for 
> clarification, and Rob referred me to Rob MacLachlan of South Shore Yachts.  
> Rob MacLachlan said definitively I have hull #79, not hull #7.  So the HIN 
> format C used before standardization on November 1st 1972 apparently didn’t 
> include any digits indicating the month in which the hull was laid up.
> 
> I’ll be damned, I said.  All this time I thought I had hull #7.
> 
> Rick Bushie on this list owns 30 MK I hull #1, and his HIN plate says simply 
> “30-1 1971N”.
> Brian Buttigieg in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #5, he says, but 
> hasn’t posted his HIN yet.
> Jack Rousseau in the Facebook group owned 30 MK I hull #8 and said it was 
> made in 1971.
> Sean Dillon in the Facebook group owns 30 MK I hull #14 and says it’s a 1971 
> boat.
> Ed Levert on this list owned hull #19 and thought it was a 1971 boat.
> The owners of HINs 30002672, 30005972, and 30009472 have also been heard from 
> here or in the Facebook group.
> Steve Guiney in the Facebook group owns hull #123 and his HIN is CCY301231172 
> (CCY was later used by the Rhode Island factory but it didn’t open until 
> February 1976)
> 
> It seems clear that C changed 30 MK I HIN formats at least twice over the 
> production run.  And I shall change my email signature according to what I’ve 
> learnt.
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Force 10 Stove Parts?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

I’d check with Sure Marine in Seattle.  They are likely to have stove parts, or 
know where you might want to look for them.   
https://www.suremarineservice.com/ <https://www.suremarineservice.com/>

Good luck, Lee

_______
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle 


> On Dec 10, 2019, at 9:13 13AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Anyone know a good source for Force 10 stove parts? 
> 
> I’m looking for the sliding piece of metal tube with the knob that keeps the 
> stove from gimbaling and a replacement “face plate” which sits behind the 
> knobs. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar tach issue

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

So did you hide a inline fuse on the way to the engine panel, and use that wire 
for the tach?


> On Oct 31, 2019, at 2:53 09PM, sv Rebecca Leah via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know anything about Yanmar 4JHE tachs? Rewired my engine, now 
> tach fails to work. Tried new tach no help. 
> Pickup off flywheel shows an ac voltage that increases with rpm. 
> Tacoma desiel had me check cleanliness of pickup. No dirt. 
> At a loss. I need help. 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> C LF39
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis on Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II, Seattle, WA
Keep us posted, Lee


> On Oct 3, 2019, at 1:52 14PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home 
> Port
> 
> For example:
> Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B / 
> e...@schillay.com <mailto:e...@schillay.com> / Venice Island, FL

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Re: Stus-List Smelly head

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Blair,

Yes replacing hoses may be required, and WM will push you hose right away!.  
First I’d go to the pump-out on a weekday, suck everything you can, fill and do 
it again.  If nobody is waiting maybe even a third time if you are new to the 
boat.  Pour a couple gal. of water or run the hose into the toilet and really 
flush out the bottom of the tank. Sailing and banging the boat helps shake the 
old flakes out.   

The vent is critical, and must be clean!!!  Repeat:  The vent is critical, and 
must be clean!!!  Run water through the vent line so it’s being sucked in, 
while sucking out the tank.  If you don’t hear it gurgling and sucking - your 
vent hose is plugged.  Usually with old shit or maybe bugs. Maybe you can get a 
wire in to help, or replace that line first.  The bugs that grow in the tank 
with-out air, really smell the worse!  

When you have a clean vented tank, at Noflex, mix like yeast.  It’s the dried 
version of the “bugs” that you want in your tank.  Kathleen flushes maybe a 
quart through the system after pump outs.

Use your boat all year if possible - it might take a year or two, some hard 
sailing, and a lot of flushes before you see very few dried compacted flakes 
being sucked out.

We bring a few 1/2 gal. milk jugs down to the head, and flush with fresh water. 
 If you are day sailing and back to the dock, and it’s easy to top up you water 
tank, flush with the sprayer or a jug.  Whenever you leave the boat, even an 
afternoon, especially for a week or more, flush with fresh water! 

Some folks have a pump-out service, and you should see how quick they can 
“service” your boat, likely on and off in under 3 min. - ouch!The nice 
thing about going to the pump-out - you are using your boat, which keeps many 
systems working, tips you off on the problems, and gives you lots of practice 
docking - a very good thing.  Again, try to go weekday mornings, not Sunday 
afternoons when everyone is cranky and eager to get off the boat!  Never on 
Labor Day!

Hope this helps, Lee
Living aboard a 1974 C 35-II
Wow, 11+ years!

> On Oct 2, 2019, at 11:52 16AM, Blair Clark via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I beg patience as i am hoping there is some quick troubleshooting hints that 
> can be provided.
> 
> Purchased a 1990 C 34 +. really really happy with boat and currently 
> working  through some smaller items to get her up to speed.
> 
> one of these involves the holding tank. My jabsco manual toilet exits through 
> a Y valve to sea or to  holding tank.  No external macerator system is in 
> place.. Even when Y valve set to sea I am having a smell go away and then 
> return to the head area.
> 
> Holding tank was pumped before transport after purchase and appears close to 
> empty.
> 
> Steps to date:
> 
> 1) Had a group out on the boat
> 2) next day head ines appeared blocked as there was back pressure on handle
> 3) removed lines got shop vacuum cleared lines and flushed with vinegar and 
> water
> 4 thought everything would be good
> 5) Noticed smell in head
> 2) noticed back flow of liquid into bowl
> 3) again fought with stiff lines and replaced joker valve
> 3) back flow and  Smell went away
> 4) a few days later after not using boat the smell came back but not from 
> toilet bowl
> 5) noticed that when I opened door under vanity sink bowl in the space that 
> houses the holding tank that the smell was more extreme
> 6) thought of taking tank out to inspect during winter but have no idea how 
> to access it to do so.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to troubleshoot tsmell, holding tank or 
> lines and or remove tank?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Blair
> C 34+
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Stus-List C 41 Center Cockpit?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

This doesn’t look like any C I’ve ever seen:
https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/c-c-center-cockpit-3569615/

Really?
Lee


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Stus-List Boat Projects info?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I really appreciate how Paul has documented his S/V Johanna Rose projects and 
sent his site link, http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
 to a friend. I wanted to send Wally’s 
Stella Blue site link too, but it may have disappeared.  Anyone seen Wally, 
last in Mexico somewhere or know the status of his site?

His site should have been archived on the C site and Paul should get a Wally 
award!

Their info and support have helped so many on this list.

Thanks all, Lee___

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Re: Stus-List Water tank gauges...

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Anyone else notice the casual statement here:  “Rebecca Leah’s holding tanks”?

Be careful folks about what you read on the internet - Some folks are just full 
of it!

I thought Doug was a single guy, but his C 39 has two heads and dual tanks!

He’s helpful and modest!

Ha, Lee 


> On Sep 28, 2019, at 8:31 33AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
> I installed these on Rebecca Leah's holding tanks. The warning light type, 
> very easy install, uses no power until tank is full and LED light comes on. 
> 
> https://www.marinesan.com/DTM01-Probe-Assy-Single-probe-p/313002311.htm 
> 
> Been working great. 
> Doug
> 
> On Wed, Sep 25, 2019 at 11:37 AM David Risch via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Removing very old sealant

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Matthew,

Yes 3M makes a really good adhesive remover with several form factors like 
spray on and by the gal., and someone on this list many years ago suggested 
white gas.  I believe both suggestions were after many hours of elbow grease, 
removing about four years of duck tape gook while my handrail project loitered 
behind the sofa.  

I hope you find suggestions that work for you before your chisel is dull. . .
Keep us posted on your experiments!

Thanks, Lee
Simplicity/Seattle

  
> On Sep 5, 2019, at 7:44 55PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mineral spirits did not work immediately, but may work if I allow it to work 
> for a while.  I did not want to do so until consulting with you folks.
>  
> Will the gel coat be okay if I pour some mineral spirits on the area and let 
> it sit for several hours?
>  
> I also remember someone mentioning diesel fuel.  I have the same question re: 
> letting it soak.
> to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List rust proof a gauge?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Re:  www.fluoropolymercoatinginmiamifl.com/ 
  

So that’s what you’ve been using on your prop that makes your boat so much 
faster!

Ha, now we know.  Lee


> On Aug 12, 2019, at 7:53 09AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Here is information on the Superior Shield fluoropolymer clear coat.  Not 
> sure if they still make the aerosol can version.  I've provided links to pics 
> of the can, can with UPC code and the company's website.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DmOjmhUo6B2w2uCHuuOKOsRAu-dI5oOd 
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_L8GShGJs3y-9e1i8rFNPsP5qyYQGQL 
> 
> 
> http://www.fluoropolymercoatinginmiamifl.com/ 
>   
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 

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Re: Stus-List Rendezvous roll call

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick & Kari,

Good for you!  I’m so jealous!
Sorry, Didn’t make it again this year!  Say ‘Hi” for us!
Last time was 2012:  
http://www.leeyoungbloodphoto.com/2012sites/BC_RDV_Trip/start.html 

We miss you all!  

Argh, Lee
s/v Simplicity 1974 C 35-II


> On Aug 8, 2019, at 7:11 00PM, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> My wife and I are attending our first Rendezvous! We'll be on Thetis Island 
> around 6p.  Anyone from the list attending?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Patrick and Kari Gateley
> "Odessa" 1988 C 44
> ___
> 
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Stus-List 12v A-19 bulbs

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Shawn, you mean these?
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/light-bulb-screw-base-2pk-12v-100w-8-3amp-100a1712-389.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq9_v-4bE4wIVCh6tBh1PlQI5EAQYASABEgJwwfD_BwE


> On Jul 20, 2019, at 10:17 44AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ours has two of these, and one has the replacement LED strips, the other the 
> original Fl tube. Unfortunately, the LEDs are mismatched, and one is cool 
> white, the other warm. If you want the original look, and a more pleasing 
> light, I suggest the warm white LED. Not sure I would spend $70 for a new 
> bulb though... I'd probably investigate a new fixture that accepts more 
> common bulbs. I'm also curious where these fixtures were originally located 
> on the 35mk2 - we have a small one over the sink on a custom upper cabinet, 
> and a larger one over the dinette table area. I think the one over the sink 
> may have been on the cabin top over the stove originally, as there is a hole 
> in the liner there. I am planning to move it back to cover the hole and 
> exposed wires... :)
> 
> Still trying to find a cheaper source for the 12V 60W A19 (big household 
> thread) bulb used in the teak bulkhead lights. They're not common and $30US 
> is the least costly I've seen. 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Adding cover to line

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

Talk to a local rigger.  I found a good rigger on my dock stripping the cover 
off a hi-tech halyard on a race boat.  He explained he always had more cover 
than he needed and sometimes donated it to a friend for dog leashes.  He just 
gave me 40’ of his scraps for free.

May you may find a generous rigger too. . .

2 cents, Lee
s/v Simplicity
Seattle


> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:24 59AM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have hi tech low stretch but slippery halyard which my clutches just won't 
> hold.  Thinking of adding another cover at the point where they pass through 
> clutch.
> Any thoughts or solutions beyond replacing clutches or halyards.  now I take 
> to a cleat, but cumbersome as I have both on same side with a single winch 
> and when remove from winch get a little slip before can cleat off..
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Evening Star
> Pentwater, Mi.
> 
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Shediac New Brumswick 35-II

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Interesting - looks like a angled chainplate on the forward starboard bulkhead. 
 What for? 
Bit massive for a dinghy tie-down. . . Never seen that one before.

Hum?, Lee


> On Apr 18, 2019, at 9:16 57AM, r fraser via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Here is a link to local listed c 35 11 She is in Shediac New Brumswick and 
> has had same owner for 25 plus years with many many upgrades sure worth a 
> look for anyone looking for a good solid upgraded boat. 
> https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/moncton/c-c-35-mark-2/1421597548?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
> 
> -Original Message- From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2019 12:15 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 159, Issue 79
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>  1. Re:  Thoughts on '77 C 29? (Shawn Wright)
>  2. Re:  Thoughts on '77 C 29? (John and Maryann Read)
>  3.  The bulge is back in town (Eugene Fodor)
>  4. Re:  Thoughts on '77 C 29? (Shawn Wright)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2019 19:54:37 -0700
> From: Shawn Wright 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Thoughts on '77 C 29?
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Yes, I saw that listing when it came up the other day - the first 30 mk2
> locally that I've seen. I love the interior (on paper at least), but the
> price might make me wonder if we should have bought a bigger boat. It may
> sound strange, but I also don't want to get a boat that is *too* nice. It's
> like having a nice car - I don't want to get really upset the first time I
> crash the dock with a boat like that... so one with a few dings included
> will be easier for me... :)
> 
> Also, with the hopes of travelling down the coast to Mexico and beyond,
> even a modern 30' might not be enough for long term comfort, although I
> know people who gone around the globe (twice) in a 27...
> 
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2019 at 7:12 PM Randy Stafford 
> wrote:
> 
>> Shawn have you seen this boat?
>> https://nanaimo.craigslist.org/boa/d/ladysmith-1989-cc-30-mk2-sloop/6865778294.html
>> 
>> It?s true the 30 MK I layout is simple and the appointments spartan in the
>> early hull numbers like mine.  That?s OK for me, I keep her stripped down
>> and only occasionally sleep or cook aboard.
>> 
>> The MK II listed above is more luxurious, and the asking price may reflect
>> that.  Perhaps the seller would consider a lower offer.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy
>> 
>> On Apr 17, 2019, at 7:30 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Ron,
>> 
>> Ok, here's the backstory... We started out looking at 27-30' boats, with
>> the hope of finding a C 30-1 based on what I'd read about its stiffness.
>> The first one we found was $25K and although it was in very good condition,
>> we just weren't that impressed, mainly with the interior layout. Gradually
>> I started looking at anything up to about $35K, which has included a lot of
>> boats: Westsail 32, Nicholson 31 & 35 (both very nice boats - should have
>> bought the 35), Alberg 37, Niagara 35, Ericson 29, 30+, 32, 35, Newport 28,
>> 33, C 35-2, 36, 37. Of these, the C 35-2 and Nicholson 35 have
>> impressed me the most. The Nicholson is probably one of 3-4 on the
>> continent, so I don't expect to find another. The C 35-2 seems like a
>> great fit, but I don't expect I'll find another for $25K around here.
>> 
>> My wife grew up boating on a 26' wooden powerboat that her Dad built,
>> travelling to Desolation Sound every summer, so she is pretty comfortable
>> on the water, but has only sailed a few times on dinghies - Laser, Sunfish
>> and MacGregor 26. The MacGregor freaks her out because it gives the
>> illusion of a big boat with the stability of a dinghy. She's fine in a
>> Laser... she even hauled prawn traps from one last summer... :)
>> 
>> Finally, I am deciding between a "starter boat" around $10K, knowing that
>> we'll still look for the right boat. I don't want to pay much more than
>> $10K for a boat that will only last 1-2 years as the 12% sales tax is then
>> just throwing money away. If we find what seems like a good long term boat
>> for $25K or so, we'll go for it, but so far, that has been an elusive item.
>> Every $25K boat has either been an overpriced $15K boat (like that mint C
>> 30), or a $35-40K boat that needs work. I'm ok with a boat that needs some
>> work, provided I can sail it while doing the work over 

Re: Stus-List Toerail drainage - 35-2

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

Stop over thinking it.  Buy a Catalina 27 and learn to sail, then you can be 
more comfortable with a C  

Yes some people have cut a small slit for the water on the deck, while the rest 
of us just wick the moisture off.  We still get a green deck with the pollen, 
mold and slime in the Spring.  If you were sailing the C 35 in serious 
conditions, over 34kts with puffs to 50, you would appreciate how well the boat 
handles, and likely notice that 3-6” of water flowing down the boat magically 
sweeps off the deck just before it gets to you.  What a thoughtful design. . .

Buy the boat, Lee

 
> On Apr 13, 2019, at 1:21 07PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> While inspecting a '74 35-2, I noticed something quite alarming: it appears 
> that in an effort to allow drainage off the decks, someone decided to cut a 
> small section of the toerail out, about 1/4" wide, using a hacksaw or recip. 
> saw. I could see where the saw blade nicked the deck slightly below, and it 
> also exposed the hull-deck joint edge. 
> 
> While this seems like a *really* bad idea, and quite a difficult hack to 
> reverse (I think the toerails are continuous), it also got me wondering how 
> others have solved this problem. In our wet climate, allowing water to pool 
> promotes lots of nasty stuff, which I assume was the reason for this ugly 
> hack job. I suppose one could hide it by attaching a short section of toe 
> rail or similar material on top of the cut, while still allowing water to 
> drain.
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Oregon Offshore Race

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Go Alan and Thirsty - What fun!


> On Apr 6, 2019, at 8:30 18AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The 193 mile Oregon Offshore race will begin on Thursday, May 9. The race 
> starts in Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia river, and ends in 
> Victoria, BC. Two C's are entered: Thirsty, a C 35 Mk III, and Defiant, a 
> C 110. You can watch our progress at www.oregonoffshore.org 
> , and click on race tracker.
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland,OR
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Real boom preventer

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Andrew,

The line to the end of the boom is the way to go.  It makes it possible to lead 
the preventer close to the bow & back to a winch, with a long line for streach. 
 One good trick I’ve seen, probably a Brion Toss, is the dynema has a big shock 
cord sewn/seized inside.  Mostly it keeps the eye on the hook at the gooseneck, 
but any easing would be better than shock loading the boom in the water.  

On my first night delivery, when I really didn’t know much, I had to ask is,” 
Is it ok if the boom goes into the water”.  Later, the 4’ rooster tail on the 
spinnaker pole was just slow, before things got worse. . .

Cheers, Lee
s/v simplicity
Seattle


> On Mar 17, 2019, at 4:59 40PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm another who is leary of boom-brakes. They clutter the decks too much and 
> I hate a mid boom preventer because it's so easy for them to break the boom 
> in an accidental gybe or if the end of the boom gets dragged in the 
> water--not something to worry about with IOR designed C like my old 40, 
> but Masquerade has quite a long boom and the drag could be quite considerable.
> What I've done on my boat is rig a couple of strong lengths of dyneema from 
> padeyes at the end of the boom to near the gooseneck. That allows me to 
> attach a line from the bow back to loops in the dyneema and rig a proper 
> preventer. Essentially, that makes for a preventer from the bow to the end of 
> the boom. Having the dyneema to the end of the boom saves me having to center 
> the boom in order to attach the preventer, which would be a pain and 
> dangerous in any kind of sea. 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA02842
> 
> www.burtonsailing.com 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>  
> +401 965-5260
> 
> On Mar 17, 2019, at 19:37, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> In my opinion boom brakes are more work and clutter than they are worth.  I 
>> always tend the mainsheet when performing a gybe.  By tend I mean center the 
>> traveler and pull in the sheet to center the boom.  As the gybe occurs I 
>> quickly release the sheet.  On multiple occasions I've seen main sails pop 
>> as a result of uncontrolled or "forced over" gybes.
>> 
>> Care is always required when going downwind but with an attentive helmsman a 
>> preventer can sometimes be avoided.  Most boats are actually slower dead 
>> downwind so pick one side or the other.  The most often time when a 
>> preventer is unavoidable is wing and wing.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2019, 11:08 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Thanks for all the info on preventers.  I plan to use the advice to rig one 
>> when spring finally arrives and use it on long downwind cruises.  This 
>> discussion also led me to look into boom brakes.  I have always been 
>> concerned about getting hit by the boom on a gybe, and being 6’ 3”, it is a 
>> particular problem.  I had never thought of a boom brake as a device for my 
>> safety as opposed to the boat’s safety but realize now that this might be 
>> well worth installing on both accounts.  They seem to come in simple 
>> inexpensive solutions (https://dreamgreen.org/boom-brake 
>> ) to more complicated and expensive 
>> devices (http://www.boom-brake-walder.com 
>> ).  In all cases, I worry about another 
>> couple of lines to trip over when moving on the side decks, thus trading one 
>> hazard for another.  Thoughts?  Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Don’t pay any attention to Dwight or me!  We love our boats so much we let this 
thread wander along with the wrong heading, (1974 36 mk2) just to stay under 
the radar.  You see we both have 1974 C 35-II’s and know just what an anomaly 
they are in the C line.  Sure other boats are faster, but nothing else has 
the same comfort and performance sweet spot.  Racing & Marketing wanted faster 
boats with flatter bottoms, but we are still in love with the ones we have. . .

OK I will shut up now!
Ha- Lee


 
> On Jan 10, 2019, at 4:59 02AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Correct the 35 mkii is very good in light air but that depends on good sails 
> and crew. And also very good in rough seas. The motion comfort factor from 
> the sailing calculator on the cncphotoalbum site predicts very good 
> performance for its length and displacement in rough seas. It is particulary 
> slippery downwind because of that 30 ft 3 inch water line length. Also i 
> happen to really like the boats shear lines and the ample use of teak below 
> decks all fit together flawlessly by what must have been a very good marine 
> carpenter. 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 8:49 AM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> I was really focused on rough weather performance when I was shopping but the 
> reality was much different. After some foolhardy excursions we chose not to 
> sail in rough conditions, it wasn't fun. Out there on the West coast you 
> might not have the choice all the time. This is something I would consider 
> more carefully next time I buy. We're coastal cruisers, most anything will do 
> if you pay attention to the weather. I would take that Westsnail completely 
> off the list.
> 
> The CS 36T is a fabulous boat, that's on my short list for next. But I love 
> C, and they're cheaper. 
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 7:04 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Try looking at a 34.  Love ours.  We are second owner and had her for 20 
> years.  Great in all conditions excels in light air.  Well built.  
> Traditional layout that just works well.  Large enough for hot water, stove 
> with oven, etc.  Easily handled by couple.  Cruise 4 very comfortably.  
> Normally have Yanmar diesels.  Later builds with (80 to 82) have better 
> interiors
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Rod Stright via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2019 5:19 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Rod Stright
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
> 
>  
> 
> In my view, although older, the C 35 Mark 2 is a great all round boat.  We 
> won our class in the Marblehead to Halifax Ocean race in light airs, and on 
> the trip down in strong headwinds and rough seas, the flare forward kept the 
> bow from submarining into the waves when much larger boats couldn’t cope and 
> had to motor sail much slower.  The flare also deflected the waves back down 
> into the sea making for a much dryer ride than other boats.  A lot of room 
> below compared to the 35 mark 1 (3 feet longer on the waterline as I recall). 
>  Very well built hull, decks may have some soft spots but overall they seem 
> to have stood up fairly well.
> 
>  
> 
> Good luck!!
> 
>  
> 
> Rod Stright
> 
> C 99
> 
> Halifax
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of dwight veinot via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: January-10-19 5:55 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions
> 
>  
> 
> Have you used the sailing calculator under technical info on the cncphoto 
> album site. It allows u to compare boats by the numbers. I have found it very 
> useful
> 
>  
> 
> On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 12:59 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Hi Steve,
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks for the info. I've talked to brokers, but there are so few listings 
> around here that they don't have anything to show me. I have visited and 
> walked every dock within a 2 hour drive from here, but being on an island, 
> that's not a lot of boats, even with cruising grounds in our backyard. There 
> are new private listings starting to appear every day now, but nothing new at 
> the brokers yet. The problem is I have not nailed down what I want yet, so 
> the boats that have interested me are hugely varied, and usually just out of 
> my price range - like Westsail 32, Nicholson 35, CS 36T. The CS 36T I have 
> not been on board, but there are 5 of them nearby, and the interior photos 
> I've seen look great, but it's about double my budget, so I'm now considering 
> the CS 30, but they are much less common here. Lots of C, but anything 
> 

Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I actually was impressed with the ones I saw on a Beneteau - Gasp!  Please 
don’t kick me off this list guys!  They were simple pushbutton to open, spring 
loaded and automatically lock every time.  The pin from inside, can easily be 
opened if trapped inside.  One of the good thoughts I had seen on a b. 

2 cents, Lee 


> On Jan 4, 2019, at 8:00 06AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You know 
> the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is down trapping 
> me in the locker.  I actually don't mind them because I drape a coil of line 
> or a towel over the opening whenever I'm in the locker and on the boat alone. 
>  However, these old hasps probably don't comply with ABYC.
> 
> The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:
> 
> https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002 
> 
> 
> The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is because I 
> haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  Any listers found 
> hasps that fit?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Don,

I have a 1974 C 35-II with the same drain plan.  I’ve sailed in >34kts in 
Puget Sound (I didn’t look after that) and some puffs were around 50 - reported 
by other cruising boats, returning from the same raft-up.  I should have had 
the third reef in, but had my hands full by then.  Depending on the wave 
conditions, I only buried the rail every 3-5 waves.  We don’t have a dodger, so 
I like the “protection” of the leeward aft cockpit seat, and on the big puffs 
got sprayed, and the really big one, likely over 50, slightly hosed.  I was 
very impressed with the combings and deck design, as I watched 3-6 inches of 
foaming water flowing down the deck towards me.  C got it right, the combing 
curves, and the water was sloshed right off the boat!  I’m pretty sure you 
would need much bigger offshore waves to get any real water in the cockpit.

No I take that back!  Years ago, we were crossing the sound, close behind a big 
container ship.  I headed up to take a picture, and Kathleen calmly said “I 
think I will go straight into this one.”  Before I could say anything, the bow 
dropped about 8’ into the hole, I stepped up onto the coach-house, put my elbow 
over the boom, and picked up my feet as the wave poured over the boat into the 
cockpit.  It didn’t take long for about  16” of water to disappear, and as she 
jumped up on the aft seats to keep her feet dry, she said “Well I don’t think I 
will do that again!”  We had the companion-way hatch closed, but forward hatch, 
and the scoop vents in the head were under water and leaked.  Even years later, 
Kathleen is very good about checking that the forward hatch is dogged down. . . 
every time we go out.

Great boats!  Happy New Year, Lee  


> On Jan 3, 2019, at 7:17 31PM, Don Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> With all this discussion of the cockpit drains I went out to my boat (C 
> MkII, which spends winter in my side yard) to check the layout and take some 
> measurements.  The two scupper valves are 9" from the centerline (18" apart) 
> and are approx. 20" below the waterline.  The cockpit deck (floor) is 12" 
> above the waterline. The forward T-cockpit drain is 26" above the hull at the 
> valve and valve top is 5 1/4" tall measured from the outside of the hull at 
> the valve exit.  Both valves are faired flush to the hull.  The aft cockpit 
> scupper drains which are T'ed into the forward scuppers valves are further 
> outboard and a little lower.  It is these scuppers that have water when 
> heeling over to the point that we have water coming over the leeward rail.  I 
> have attached a diagram of the set up.  It appears that cross connecting the 
> scuppers would not help keep water out of the aft cockpit as the boat would 
> have to have the spreaders almost in the water.  Portends I have bigger 
> problems then water in the cockpit.
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> On 1/3/2019 1:47 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> As I recall, on my 35-1 it takes 15-20 degrees for water to emerge from the 
>> leeward steering station scupper.  That's just when it's starting to get fun!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Garry Cross via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Understand that. Wonder what degree of heel it would take to achieve that. 
>>  
>> On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 3:01 PM Neil Andersen > > wrote:
>> The issue is when the cockpit holes AND the thru-hulls are both below the 
>> line.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
>> 
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Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I have a sweet C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the stern 
of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.  It’s not 
for drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull the cap for 
the vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.  OK I live in 
Seattle and it’s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much rain comes 
through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the cockpit?  I only looked 
because my bilge pump was going off for about 20 sec. every 20 min.  Water was 
trickling down below the engine, and s couple years ago, I tossed the boat 
really well, and we flushed out the construction insulation crumbs under the 
icebox into the pots and pans under the stove - that was a mess and another 
story.  Anyway, does anyone else find water in the stern behind the helm 
position?  Have you looked recently?

On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good quality 
drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the usual rusting 
metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make or link?

Thanks, Lee


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Re: Stus-List 34+ Gladwin in Anacortes

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,

You talking to Russ at West Yachts?  I heard the owners have been sailing the 
boat, don’t know how much, but likely love their boat.

Lee at shilshole


> On Aug 22, 2018, at 4:10 56PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Saw the 34+ 'Gladwin' in Anacortes, Washington recently. She looked well 
> cared for. Does anybody have more information on her?
> 
> Best,
> Kevin
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Halyard Exit Hood

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hum,

I have a piece of sailcloth covering the halyard exit.  Likely been there 
years, in the PNW rain.  
You could pick up a scrap from your local sailmaker, probably free from the 
scraps box, with adhesive back and stick it on. 
Or you could get an engineer to over-think it. . . 
2 cents, Lee


> On Jul 17, 2018, at 11:47 58AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Not to hijack your thread, (or maybe yes!)
> But this makes me think of an item I have been lusting for,  for some time – 
> a drip edge for mast halyards .  Kind of like the first Schaefer Link, but 
> like a long nose, glued just above a sheave to keep the rain from leaching 
> down the inside of the spar.  Has anyone ever seen such an item, or will I 
> have to buy one of those Thermoformers and make my own?
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2018 3:14 PM
> To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
> Cc: Chuck S
> Subject: Stus-List Halyard Restrainer on a 35 footer
>  
> Hi Guys,
> 
>  
> 
> I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and have 
> a synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices.   
> 
>  
> 
> I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave.  The fairlead is cheaper 
> and has a smaller profile.  The Harken product is bulkier but might chafe 
> less.  Which should I get?
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.apsltd.com/schaefer-halyard-restrainer-large.html?fee=5=49391_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=Cj0KCQjwvqbaBRCOARIsAD9s1XDQsK2f4i46UwgDUXWMIx1n0PV5_pW63EqoKZr7eeikXey9cqTUamkaArfTEALw_wcB
>  
> 
>  
> 
> http://www.apsltd.com/halyard-restrainer-1.html?fee=5=21107_source=Google+Shopping_medium=cpc_campaign=Product=CjwKCAjw4avaBRBPEiwA_ZetYmeX2q2YpUCYj7Ktft3-HTSj34cx_-T9jSunxda7CobYDvAdW6ZoIhoCla8QAvD_BwE
>  
> 
>   
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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Re: Stus-List West Coast rendezvous

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

August 10, 11, 12th  It’s on my calendar - hope I can make it. . .


> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:06 23AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Can anyone tell me the dates of the West Coast rendezvous, couldn’t find 
> anything on the website, I’m in the Vancouver area. Would be great if the 
> dates worked so I could make the trip and meet some likeminded individuals.
> 
> Chris
> 1980 C 30MK1
> FCYC
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Force 10 Oven Thermostat

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

.Sure Marine likely has the parts and advice you need


> On Jun 19, 2018, at 5:26 07AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Has anyone found a way to retrofit an oven thermostat into an older 3 
> burner Force 10 range (circa 1990)?  Newer Force 10 ranges have a thermostat, 
> while older ones do not.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Tie

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi John,

We live aboard a modest C 35-II, a 1974 boat, in Seattle, with wind mostly 
from the North and South.  I hate to be bounced off the dock, and squeaking 
fenders will make me get up in the night, and go spray them with the kitchen 
soapy sprayer.  It’s best to spring the boat off the dock with lines from the 
toe rail.  I have simply tied about a foot and a half of line or webbing, and 
tucked the blight through the toe rail.  The stern spring location is just aft 
of the gate, and I use a 3/8 line with a snubber and scrap of hose for chafe.  
It’s actually my stopping line, repurposed to spring the boat.  I throw a 
bowline around the cleat, run it to the toe-rail blight, push the hose back in 
place, (yea I haven’t bothered to tie it there as things change) take the line 
back to the dock cleat, easy. The forward spring has an old scrap of fire hose 
for chafe and a snubber too, and goes through the blight about half way to the 
shrouds.  You will play with the spring positions and lines a few times, till 
you can get the boat off the dock and parallel to the dock.  Too far forward 
and I will be pulling the bow away from the dock, too far aft and I’ll hit my 
dinghy.  Hope this makes sense.

When you have it located and tensioned, all sorted out, you can be comfortable 
in 30+ knots.  Then you just have to check the lines on the boats up wind.  
Those rattly little knotted blights have held up for over 8 years, someday I 
will do something prettier, a soft shackel,  or not. . .  Don’t over think it, 
and yes carabiners will eat your toerail, not just the black coating, they will 
chew up the AL rail too.  Look at the stern spinnaker block locations of boats 
that have been heavily raced.  SS will eat AL.

Good luck, Lee
Simplicity in Seattle


> On Jun 18, 2018, at 8:26 34PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On My 1982 37 I have only  bow and stern cleats. There is  no place except 
> the Toe rail to tie My fore and aft spring lines. And I need them  on my 
> docking situation.
> Question - Is this fine to do tie off direct to toe rail with clip of 
> Carabiner ? and what are the methods of attachment? How about Cafe?
>  Do the Toe Rail cleats ( foldable)  they sell work ? or what about the or 
> the cleat for the genoa track ? is this worth the price? Any other thoughts 
> ideas are welcome
> THANKS !
>  
> John Conklin
> s/v Halcyon 
> Oriental NC
>  
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Unsubscribe

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Humm Tom,

Maybe I don’t have all header and footer info showing either.  There is no info 
at the bottom of this page on how to unsubscribe.
  
If a newbie stumbles around on http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ 
 and look in the left column, “under the fold” 
they might find the mailman email list options page that looks like this: 

 

I think the “how do I un-subscribe” question comes up enough, at least once a 
month, I wish we could help people better.  Yes, there may be security reasons, 
why this is not so visible, and that’s way over my pay grade. 

I may have gotten a “mailman” list info email when I signed up, but I looked, 
and I have saved emails dating back to 2003, and I wouldn’t know how to 
unsubscribe. . .   I typed unsubscribe into the search field, and got a way to 
unsubscribe on the first page here:  
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/groups/listers/listers.htm 


Thanks, Lee




> On Jun 4, 2018, at 3:12 18PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It is also in the frst paragraph of each email...just sayin.
> 
> At 01:00 PM 6/4/2018, you wrote:
>> This is the second time that you have sent an UNSUBSCRIBE email and
>> bothered all of us with your problem.  It's pretty easy to unsubscribe in a
>> very similar manner to that as you used to subscribed.  Go to
>> cncphotoalbum.com, then email list (subscribe link).  There is a link at
>> the bottom  of this page to unsubscribe.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
> 
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

Crows!  They like to sharpen their beaks, pick at things, and generally make 
fun of us.
Up here in the PNW there is quite a tradition, Raven took pity on us, brought 
fire to man, but turned black in the flight out the gods smoke hole.
If you see them, cat food is a good treat, and they will know you and follow 
you. . .

Good Luck, Lee
Simplicity in Seattle 


> On May 22, 2018, at 6:58 36AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Possible but not likely.the zip ties were only there for maybe 2 
> weeksI put the radar reflector on when we stepped the mast earlier this 
> monthI have used zip ties for this purpose for the past 12 seasons with 
> no issueshave to cut them off in the Fall when we unstep the 
> mastdon't leave the reflector on the rig during winter storage..had 
> one stolen in the spar shed one winter.
> 
> The 'explosion' I heard happened above me, not an impact from it falling to 
> the deck.  What is puzzling is that all 4 zip ties were gone as well as the 2 
> black end pieces that the zip ties attached to the shroud.   How could the 
> sun degrade all 4 zip ties in that short period?  And how could all 4 ties 
> come off the shroud?  There was nothing left on the shroud.
> 
>   Was hoping someone here might explain it as I simply don't understand this.
> 
> Rob
> 
> On 2018-05-22 10:34 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hi Rob
>> 
>> Any chance UV got to your zip ties and the reflector simply fell to the deck 
>> and exploded on impact?
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 10:46 AM
>> To: robert via CnC-List
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Radar Reflector
>> 
>> Just finished a sail on Saturday p.m., started the motor and was standing in 
>> the cockpit with my back facing the bow when I heard a loud noise, what 
>> sounded like a 12 gauge gun go off behind me..felt something hit me in 
>> the back, turned around and saw 5 - 6 square pieces of aluminum on the deck 
>> and on the cockpit sole.scared the heck out of me.for a moment, had 
>> no idea what had just happened.
>> 
>> Looked up to check things aloft and noticed my radar reflector (cylinder
>> shaped) which I had attached to my lower shroud with four (4) zip ties
>> (2 each top and bottom)..had been doing that for a dozen years with no 
>> issuesand it was goneall gonenothing left attached to the 
>> shroud.not the two black end pieces of the reflector or any of the 4 
>> plastic zip ties.only thing(s) that remained were 6 pieces of the 
>> aluminum from inside the reflector that fell down.the rest must of went 
>> overboard.
>> 
>> I have never heard of this happening, ever..the radar reflector simply 
>> exploded.And it was not full of water which might have expanded because 
>> some years ago when I took it off the boat in the Fall, there was a little 
>> water in it so I drilled a 3/16" hole in one side which always then became 
>> the 'bottom' when attaching to the shroud in the Spring.
>> 
>> Has this ever happened to anyone else?
>> 
>> Can anyone explain how a cylinder type radar reflector can explode like mine 
>> did?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

No need to walk the plank, it’s the old Valiant 40s that glassed the keelbolts. 
. . 


> On Feb 12, 2018, at 11:11 12AM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> To clarify so the C owner's group doesn't try to Keelhaul, flog, or have my 
> surveyor walk the plank. He didn't suggest the epoxy. It was the only 
> information I had found in my limited search for a solution to "seal the keel 
> bolts" in accordance with his recommendation. I asked the question here 
> because I didn't want to do anything idiotic without leveraging the probably 
> hundreds of years of sailing and boat maintenance experience that this group 
> has. The message is clear the epoxy is out, and I may be an idiot for even 
> thinking it may be a viable solution, but I'm the idiot that knows when to 
> ask a question. Thank you for your (in some cases passionate) help. I 
> appreciate what you all bring to this forum and all that I've learned from 
> reading your posts.
> 
> Brien Sadler
> S/V TAZ
> 1987 C 35-3
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail water drain/ now wicks

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Great solution Dennis, as usual!  

For the rest of us, I’d like to point out Dennis may have painted his boat red, 
to go with his wick?  

On my “beater boat ” we use a ripped terrycloth rag, works just fine in rainy 
Seattle and looks “natural”, turns green in a week.  

Very happy to have the metal toe rail, Lee



> On Feb 12, 2018, at 5:11 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I used cotton lamp wick like this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Paraffin-Kerosene-Lanterns-Genuine-Superior/dp/B01BYLYQYY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8=1=BGACPVC704NHP4827AC3=51iI62A7ikL=_SY300_QL70_=detail
>  
> 
> 
> I just folded it over a couple times and stitched it so it looks like a 
> letter "P".  The folded over part lays on the deck and the tail sticks out 
> throught the toe rail.  It hangs free of the hull so the drips fall off the 
> end of the wick and don't run down the topsides.
> 
> Amazon sells round wicks for about $2.  One could just tie a know in a couple 
> of those and do the same thing.  :)
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
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Stus-List Battery charger made in the USA?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

So why not the Blue Sea charger:  
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/blue-sea-systems-p12-40-amp-battery-charger-12v-dc-7532
 

also at Fisheries?


> On Feb 5, 2018, at 2:40 35PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/mastervolt-chargemaster-automatic-battery-chargers#AllProductBookMark
>  
> 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Feb 5, 2018, at 1:07 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Mastervolt Chargemaster 12/35-
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Cleaning and Refinishing interior woodwork

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Gerald,

Not sure you really want to be in a confined space with ammonia.  Three parts 
triggered a mold note I saved:

Mold control from Practical Sailor

The two homemade spray formulas we tested each cost about one penny per ounce. 
Like the other mildew preventers in our test, you use these as cleaners by 
simply spraying the product on, wiping any excess away, and leaving it on. 
Before applying to any fabric, test the spray on an inconspicuous sample spot.
Formula A 
1 quart hot water
1 tablespoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
2 tablespoons washing soda (sodium carbonate)
2 tablespoons trisodium phosphate (TSP)
Much like Concrobium (which it is modeled after), our homemade Formula A 
removed the mildew from test carpet on board and kept it away, even though the 
area got wet again. It was also very effective in the moist-environment lab 
test.
Formula B
1 quart hot water
2 tablespoons baking soda
2 tablespoons Borax
1 tablespoon TSP
Formula B was the second-place performer in the liquid group. It was certainly 
the best value. It cleaned well, prevented mildew from returning to the carpet, 
and greatly slowed mildew infection in the moist-environment test in the lab.
We also tried treating with plain vinegar, which reportedly works on some hard 
surfaces, but testers found the smell a little too overpowering. A 10-percent 
solution of household bleach (3-percent sodium hypochlorite) was one of the 
best cleaners, but this has to be used with care. Bleach will bleed or degrade 
many fabrics, and can harm the marine environment. For complete results and 
more tips on keeping your boat mildew free, be sure to check out the full test 
report on mildew preventative 
s
 at www.practical-sailor.com .
For serious cleaning jobs ahead, we also have an e-book dedicated to Marine 
Cleaners 

 on our Products page .


Someone else may remember - I don’t. . .

Cheers, Lee



> On Jan 29, 2018, at 5:37 46PM, gerald field via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some time ago there were a series of posts on the best methods for cleaning 
> and refinishing the interior woodwork on a C, I seem to have lost these 
> posts, can anyone give me the advice again all I remember is that the 
> cleaning solution was a 3 part mixture one of the ingredients being ammonia.
> Gerald Field
> Vagabond C 30
> MBSC
> Midland ON  
> ___
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Re: Stus-List marinco 6079 installation

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Alex,

We used a lot of those “remodel boxes” when I worked as an electrian.  They 
will rust up good on you, and were designed for drywall.  If your wall is to 
thick to use the back flange, just use metal shears, and cut them down.  Not 
actually an easy job, a dremel cutter wheel might work easier, but make 
sparks-careful. 
A cheap blue plastic box from Home Depot might work better, it’s usually bigger 
indside too, and you can screw it into the wood you have, or add a scrap to 
screw into.  You would be surprised how much stuff needs to be modified to 
work.  Don’t get me started on plaster and lath walls.  

Good luck, Lee




> On Jan 27, 2018, at 6:36 11PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am re-wiring my boat and bought some Marinco plastic outlet boxes (P/N 
> 6079) that were delivered with a metal guard that screws into the base and 
> has flanges that are too long to come out flush.  Are these necessary and how 
> do you install so you can get maximum benefit and are able to install the 
> face cover?
>  
> http://www.marinco.com/en/6079 
>  
>  
> Alex Giannelia
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
> a...@airsensing.com 
>  
> ___
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Stus-List Battery Equalizer Solution?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Any one used this Battery Equalizer solution?  
https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/fluid/BE12oz.html

Snake oil or useful?

Thanks, Lee
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Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Maybe something like this?  http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=20902On Nov 13, 2017, at 3:26 49PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:My boatyard used roofing tape.  Silicone seal the sail track at the tape and your good to go.  And its cheap too.David F. Risch(401) 419-4650 (cell)From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 5:35 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Bruce WhitmoreSubject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Agreed as to sealing the slot, but the nice thing is on ours that the spar manufacturer thoughtfully filled the slot below the boom vang attachment, so it makes for a nice smooth penetration through the deck.  Still wondering about better tape options, though... Bruce Whitmore(847) 404-5092 (mobile)bwhitm...@sbcglobal.netFrom: Neil Andersen via CnC-List To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  Cc: Neil Andersen Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:22 PMSubject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot TapeAlso don’t forget that if you are keel stepped AND have a mast slot for slugs on your mainsail luff.  Darn near impossible to seal that channel with just the boot tape. Neil Andersen20691 Jamieson RdRock Hall, MD 21661From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 3:13:03 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Matthew L. WolfordSubject: Re: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Under “other solutions,” I use a Spartite plug at the partners which, in addition to holding the mast in place, also keeps water out. From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-ListSent: Monday, November 13, 2017 2:25 PMTo: C ListCc: Bruce WhitmoreSubject: Stus-List Mast Boot Tape Hello all, I was wondering if some of you may have some insights regarding mast boot tape.  We have had a slight leak around the base of the mast since we bought the boat in February.  I pulled off a mass of old tape which was peeling anyway, and applied Rubbaweld Mast Boot Tape with somewhat marginal success (it was my first attempt). In that since I was doing the job single handed, I had to start by taping the end of the tape to the mast with duct tape to hold it while I pulled it tight.  I also found it was kind of a pain to have to pull off liner from the tape surface simultaneously while pulling on the tape hard enough to activate the adhesive and get it to bind.  It was also pretty difficult to get a good span from the base of the mast deck entrance to the mast itself, and I had difficulty getting the tape to fuse into a nice tight end.  In the end, the stuff appears to be about the same as what came off, which looked perpetually dirty.   I understand this is mostly an issue of user error, but It seems to me there must be a better solution. For example, anyone ever try white shrinkwrap tape?  It would seem ideal - waterproof, sticks to boat hulls well, doesn't leave sticky residue, is UV resistant, and would stay much cleaner.  Any other solutions?   Bruce Whitmore(847) 404-5092 (mobile)bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ xl for sale

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Does “Pacific Cup Veteran” suggest good gear, tired sales, and raced hard and 
put to bed wet?  You’d have to see it to know how much water has been inside 
the boat.
2 cents, Lee
 

> On Oct 19, 2017, at 10:20 05AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Scary how inexpensive. Maybe there’s something very wrong with her. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Oct 19, 2017, at 1:03 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone seen this?
>> 
>> http://marinesource.com/boats-for-sale/listing_details.cfm?Yacht=1990-37-C-C-37-XL-Plus-Berkeley-CA=100784958
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> Seems really inexpensive!
>> 
>> Danny
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List MIT's C custom 43 X Dimension available for free

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All, 
I may be on the west coast, but check out the MIT/X Dimension wiki - as a 
broker, I’ve never seen this much info, from an owner on their boat:  
http://sailing.mit.edu/wiki/index.php/Systems_Descriptions#Anchors 


Wow, Lee


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Re: Stus-List Reefing Lines for C 24

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Or if you are a really frugal sailor, you will pick up about 6’ of used line at 
the dumpster, loop it under the gooseneck, through the sail ring, and tie a 
quick knot back in front of the mast.  Yeah, but It’s my boat and I want to 
spend $50 for a nice SS fix, and will it hold in 60kts of wind?  You shouldn’t 
be there. . .

> On Jul 24, 2017, at 5:35 39PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On my 25, I used a Cunningham to secure the tack.  Or you can install reefing 
> horns at the gooseneck.
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 24, 2017, at 8:21 PM, Kreg Kinney via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> My new to me 1977 C 24 is slab reefed with two teef points in the main. No 
>> reefing lines are ren to the clew of either reef. The pulleys are on the 
>> boom for the clew lines. And the loops are there to lead the line forward 
>> toward the mast. But there are no cleats on the mast to secure the clew line 
>> to. 
>> 
>> Also there is no hook at the gooseneck to secure the reef tack to. How do I 
>> secure the tack when reefing?
>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Thinking about a new boom - where to start?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Go to Port Townsend Rigging and talk with Lisa & Dan!  They are Seldon dealers 
and make custom masts too.  Lisa will tell you if she can’t reef your boat in 
less than a minute or two, it’s not rigged right.


> On Jul 11, 2017, at 10:11 03PM, Andrew Means via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some of you may remember a thread about a year ago where I was soliciting 
> opinions on how to get a single-line reefing system to work on S.V. Safari, 
> my C 34.
> 
> I can say that I got it working well enough to take us safely to Tofino and 
> back, along with a year’s worth of great sailing. The single line reefing 
> made reefing with an inexperienced crew much safer and smoother. However, 
> it’s not perfect. The reefing lines (along with the outhaul, topping lift, 
> etc.) had to contend with a fair amount of friction and frozen hardware that 
> will never come off, and as such our reefs tend to not be as crisp as they 
> could/should be.
> 
> So I’m contemplating what a new boom might look like. Something with internal 
> reefing lines, outhaul, topping lift, etc.. I’m not sure where to start. What 
> are my options?
> 
> Andrew
> 
> -- 
> Andrew Means
> S.V. Safari - 1977 C 34 Mk I
> Seattle, WA
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Black water tanks

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi J-G & Bill,

On our 35-II, the bladder tank behind the head was packed up with something 
that turned it into cement.  I think there is an additive for turning paint 
into a solid. The head was plumbed into a plastic holding tank under the 
v-berth, with a manual pump, to pump overboard, if offshore or in Canada 
without pump-out facilities. I’m sure the v-berth tank is a bigger tank, and 
after excavating the bladder, we appreciate the storage in the head.  Sometimes 
folks do a better job than the original, and you may not need to go back to the 
original.

Lee & Kathleen on Simplicity
a 1974 C 35-II


> On Jul 8, 2017, at 5:04 47PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> That is a good question. I have a 35mkii and it has a black water “tank” 
> behind the head. It is not connected and I would like to reconnect it. Does 
> any one know what size (gallons) it is? It seem to be somewhat collapsable - 
> is it? Are they robust? Can they be removed/replaced? The only outlet is the 
> pump out on the deck. Can I replumb it so I can pump it out through the 
> thru-hull?
> 
> Cheers,
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
> 
> 
>> On Jul 7, 2017, at 11:19 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone know if the 35MK2 were fitted with black water tanks when 
>> manufactured in the mid-70’s?
>> 
>> Cheers, J-G 
>> Callisto, 33 mk2
>> Victoria BC
>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy,

Here in Seattle we test for leaks almost daily.  The thin aluminum HAVC tape w/ 
paper release is magic.  Between downpours, you can wipe and install, and it 
sticks.  It sticks to the windows, metal, and fiberglass, and is so thin water 
will roll over it.  It doesn’t gum up like ductape - which will not work and 
leaves a sticky mess. Use till you can redo your hatches windows and port 
lights correctly.

Good Luck, Lee  




> On Jun 15, 2017, at 3:27 44PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Jeremy,
>  
> I close up the gaping hole with a piece of plywood that is cut to fit.  Drill 
> the holes to match the hatch (every other one) and it will screw down with 
> the original screws.  You can even sail with it if you seal it well.  It does 
> limit exits from the cabin, which can be a safety concern both at the dock 
> and on the water.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 13:19
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Jeremy Ralph >; 
> dbjons...@shaw.ca 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks
>  
> Thanks Joel, Matthew, and Don!
>  
> Rebuild/rebedding that hatch lens now on my increasingly growing list of 
> projects.  
>  
> I'm curious, when removing port lenses for such a project, what do people do 
> to keep things sealed up?  I may redo settee windows at the same time.  I see 
> some boats with plastic sheeting and duct tape while under construction...  
>  
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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Stus-List stress relief / thanks all

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I’d like to take a moment to thank Dennis, and consider nominating him for a 
Wally Award.  Every year we have folks who go just a little further, ok some 
say over the top, but really, they just want to figure out a way to do a good 
job, just a little better.

I came into this list when Wally and Jim were the pillars, folks you could 
count on for real help, and a good example of how to do a boat project well.  
While Wally is off cruising in Mexico and Jim semi-retired, folks like Dennis 
have stepped up to make this list the great list it is for the rest of us.  

We owe them a big thanks for keeping the Wally story going. . .

OK, Yes, I missed a lot of good folks, this was just a good example this week. 
Please no flames. . .

Thanks, Lee


> On May 25, 2017, at 5:33 10PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Not talking moonshine here but the stress relief to keep wires from breaking. 
>  Some of you may have a similar issue with some item on your boat.  Possibly 
> where insulation on a cable breaks and exposes the wires inside.  VHF 
> microphone cable maybe?
> 
> I installed a Nexus instrument system on Touche' in 1999.  I remove the knot 
> log transducer if the boat is idle for some time.  After a couple years of 
> constant handling, the knot log transducer got a bit flakey.  A Nexus tech 
> (who now works for Garmin) told me one of the wires in the cable where it 
> exits the transducer most likely broken and was making intermittent contact.  
> He said it was because the cable was subject to sharp bending at that point.  
> He told me how to modify the new one to add stress relief and prevent 
> recurrence.  
> 
> Well, that fix lasted many years but during the transit to Pensacola a few 
> weeks ago, it acted up again.  I surmised the same problem had occurred.  My 
> fix may not have been robust enough.  I used electrical tape to stabilize the 
> cable and it worked fine for the remainder of the trip adding credence to my 
> diagnosis.
> 
> I received the new cable today and added beefed up stress relief as before.  
> 
> Here's the fix with pics.
> 
> First, the transducer as received.  Note that the cable is epoxied into the 
> transducer but a small well remains.  There is no stress relief.  The cable 
> is subject to sharp bending where it exits the epoxy.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsaUlBUl9pY0xaV0k 
> 
> 
> First, I applied several layers of heat shrink.  Note that I tapered the 
> layers.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsbURlWkhPdldwYWs 
> 
> 
> Next, I stood the transducer in a jar, taped it and filled the well with 
> unthickened epoxy thus locking the heat shrink in place.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsUTdQdi1KSm9XQjQ 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsZnI2OGQzak1SSEE 
> 
> 
> Finally I removed the tape.  Final product:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvseEtLTGpKS04xT0E 
> 
> 
> The heat shrink should now prevent sharp bending of the cable where it exits 
> the transducer.  (My previous fix only used one layer of heat shrink.)
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor for?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Back on earth, gear heads who read practical science, could engineer all kinds 
of things themselves.  I’m guessing a galvanic isolator was planned, and like 
many projects never quiet finished.  Then the lawyers out numbered the 
engineers, lots of paper work ensued, and surveyors wanted monitors or some 
kind of fail-safe device to save us all.  Occasionally the surveyors would tell 
stories of kids and moms electrocuted just off the boat, usually in fresh 
water.  So now the boats are too expensive for mortals to work on the boat, and 
they sit in harbors while, the owners work to pay for the marketing. . . 

Clearly time for me to get off the dock. . .

Lee
Blinded in Seattle





> On May 4, 2017, at 12:49 00PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> Hilarious — and kudos to anyone who understands the oscillation overthruster 
> reference — cause no matter where you go, there you are. 
> 
> No flux capacitors on my boat — we go back in time by engaging the warp drive 
> and slingshotting around the sun. 
> 
> Seriously — we do have a warp core on board: 
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/WarpCore.mov 
>  
> 
> (Ok — it’s a Bluetooth speaker)
> 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 4, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> I think Edd Schillay probably has several flux capacitors on board the 
>> Starship Enterprise along with a set of spare di-lithium crystals.  Now if I 
>> can only find somebody selling an oscillation overthruster, then I can take 
>> Half Magic to the 8th Dimension although I probably need to go to New Jersey 
>> to find one..
>> Ok..enough!  I’m done with the silly sci-fi references.  Back to toe rail 
>> varnishing.. (must be the fumes…sigh..)
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 Landfall 35 <>
>> Padanaram, MA 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Gary Russell via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, May 4, 2017 5:23 AM
>> To: C List >
>> Cc: Gary Russell >
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor for?
>>  
>> Nah!  It's a flux capacitor and it's used for time travel.  It allows you to 
>> sail your boat "Back to the Future".
>>  
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>>> That size cap has to be for an inverter or maybe an older analog radar.
>>>  
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD 
>>>  
>>> On May 3, 2017 9:00 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>> > wrote:
 OK, in the box of parts left behind by the prior owner of our 1994 C 
 37/40+ are two Arcotronics C.87.0EF3 50uf capacitors.  You can see a 
 picture of them here:  1pcs - ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 
 500V(180/15) Capacitor - C.87.0EE3 MKP | eBay 
 
 
  
 And, they're not exactly cheap, even on Ebay.  
  
 
  
 What are these things for?  
  
  
 Thanks in advance!
  
 Bruce 
  
  
 $ 35.0 
 
 1pcs - ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 500V(180/15) Capacitor - 
 C.87.0EE...
 1pcs - ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 500V(180/15) Capacitor - 
 C.87.0EE3 MKP
  
  
  
 Bruce Whitmore
 
 (847) 404-5092  (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 
 
 ___
 
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 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> All 

Re: Stus-List Stuffing box restuffing

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Gerald,

Here’s the link you need:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

I had a 1972 C 27 and now a 35-II, which has a dripless PYI.  You might know 
your shaft size, maybe 1”, but if you are looking for packing, it might not 
matter.  You need to figure out the difference between the shaft and the glan.  
Likely 1/4”, and get something like this:
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/duramax-marine-duramax-ultra-x 


On my C 27, I certainly couldn’t afford to haul out, to do this job, but most 
folks do.  I carefully cut three rings of Gasp probably a WM gel packing 
material with a single edge razor blade, at a slant angle.  Backed off the two 
nuts on the packing glan and put the three rings of packing on the shaft with 
the splices lined up at thirds.  Working under the cockpit, with a corkscrew, a 
couple picks and a hooked coat hanger wire, I pulled the old packing out.  Yes 
a few gallons of water poured in, but it takes a lot to sink a boat.  Once it 
was all cleaned out, with the packing and nuts prepped, i just pushed the 
packing and nuts into place and tightened up the nuts.  Actually it was pretty 
easy, just not recommended if you are claustrophobic, or afraid of drowning. . 
.  

2 cents, Lee
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C 35-II in Seattle
Lots of pics:  www.leeyoungbloodphoto.com


> On Apr 18, 2017, at 8:32 40PM, gerald field via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am looking for information on the size of stuffing packing needed on my C 
> 30 any information will be welcome
> Regards Gerald Field
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

I’d run the holesaw in reverse to lightly go through the gelcoat. Once you have 
a good clean pilot hole, you could start out side and likely finish from 
outside.  Hole saws can be wicked in close quarters, and you don’t want to 
enlarge your pilot hole before you make your “clean cut”.

2 cents, Lee


> On Apr 5, 2017, at 9:20 04AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Dennis helped me with a similar project.  Key is to not break the gelcoat!
> IIRC, put masking tape over the area on the outside.  Drill a small pilot 
> hold from the inside through the hull.  Use your hole saw first from the 
> inside, drilling 1/2 way through, then drill the rest from the outside.
> 
> Dennis, did I get it right?
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Hi listers,
> 
> Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR. Onto 
> the next project!
> 
> I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a 
> well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The 
> thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit. I'm 
> going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any 
> surprises to expect?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
>  ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I
> City Island, NY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List storing big wheel?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

One interesting place I’ve seen the big wheels mounted is on a Bimini frame 
above the binnacle.  With the Edson clamp on mount, it threads up there easily, 
but might take two to hold in place to screw on.  It’s safely inside, out of 
the way, and if you like the chandelier lighting option, you can hang lights.  
I’ve seen fish lights and the solar LED plastic cylinders. 

2 cents, Lee



> On Feb 9, 2017, at 1:33 59PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My wheel is too big to store on the inside.  It is a little nerve racking to 
> hang the wheel on the outside... But I guess I've just gotten used to it.  I 
> used to tie the wheel with some rope just for extra security but I don't even 
> do that any more.  I do have a "spare" smaller wheel at home so I guess if 
> something happened it wouldn't be too bad to just run home for the other 
> wheel.   Our local marina diver would be able to recover the big one pretty 
> easily.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Pins in Chainplates

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

They are likely there to hold down the bedding plate.  Sometimes you have 
screws and pins which can be lifted up for rebedding around the chainplates.


> On Jan 31, 2017, at 5:36 12PM, RANDY via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Does anybody know what the heck these pins in C chainplates are for?
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTa2dfMFlmWHlsR0U 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Randy
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating with expanding foam

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi David,

When I insulated the ice box in our C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it all 
apart.  I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an aluminum 1/2’ 
"angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic.  They have a unit 
you wear, and mixing tips - buy several.  Months of stewing, careful drilling, 
and I poked and discovered lots of empty space, and about an inch of dried 
course insulation, sorta like that used for flower arranging.  The foam was 
injected in a few minutes, easy part of the job, and our ice lasted for over a 
week.  I built a clear plastic shelf with air-holes to keep the food out of the 
ice water, and we had a good time cruising Barkely Sound. 

Don’t make it such a project you can’t be sailing. . .
2 cents, Lee


> On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration 
>  
> 
> Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1 it's 
> a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top of the 
> molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a sister 
> boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to remove the 
> icebox in order to add insulation.
> 
> Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before tackling 
> adding insulation.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Someone stop me before I go too far 
> 
> I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C 33-1 in preparation for 
> the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to 
> insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart and 
> possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.   The 
> teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the fiddles) 
> and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible, I'd like to 
> save those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've noticed that 
> much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with corroded Robertson 
> head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the plugs on the teak 
> trim.  Other than that, how the cabinet box is held together is a mystery to 
> me.  Any suggestions and experience (woeful and otherwise) would be much 
> appreciated!
> 
> Best,
> 
> David 
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Plumbing/now PEX tools?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,

Did you use the SS cinch clamps and what kind of fittings, or just the John 
Guest fittings.  I watched a professional Plumber with an expansion tool slip 
this plastic collar over a fitting once, very quick and secure, and a much 
smaller installation than most of the Guest fittings.  He used a simple big 
hand powered expander, hum like this one 
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-Q6295075-ProPEX-Hand-Expander-Tool-with-1-23-41-heads-2412000-p
 

  I was impressed.  I’m still watching and learning, but it looks like I could 
rent a tool and do a lot in a weekend, maybe. . .  

Cheers, Lee

> On Jan 11, 2017, at 4:33 30AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey Edd,
> I did mine this past season on my 34. It was fairly straightforward after all 
> the planning. I bought everything through Freshwatersystems.com. They had the 
> most complete selection of SeaTech and PEX that I could find. Unfortunately 
> the PEX tubing comes in rolls which made it a little bit more difficult than 
> what straight pieces might gain you. 
> 
> They say PEX is flexible and can make somewhat tight turns, but I stuck to 
> just using elbows for most everything. They have clips that are supposed to 
> bend the tubing for a 90* turn at a safe radius, but those things were fairly 
> flimsy. The biggest pain I had was trying to screw in the mounts for the 
> tubing to secure it. I used the 1/2" CTS 35 series fittings with collet 
> clips. They had the right size for just about all of the faucets and 
> connections that I needed. I had to connect to my poly tank, water pump, 
> galley sink faucet, fresh water foot pump, water heater, external hose inlet, 
> and head faucet. 
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions.
> 
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

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Re: Stus-List Windex light for <$20 Now you want it in red?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

How short is your mast?  A tiny red light at 45 feet shining on a black arrow 
with a 2” red reflector would likely be very hard to see.

2 cents, Lee

> On Dec 30, 2016, at 12:54 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for suggestion.   Has anyone found this in Red?  Or is there an option 
> to put a red lens on?  
>  
>  
>   <>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 9:00 AM
> To: CnClist >
> Cc: Dennis C. >
> Subject: Stus-List Windex light for <$20
>  
> Just for the record, Touche' has an installed Davis Windex light and I 
> wouldn't do it any other way.  However, for someone looking for an 
> inexpensive Windex light, I have a suggestion.
> 
> I got one of these for Christmas to use for working around the boat.
> 
>   
> >
> 
> I got to thinking it might illuminate the Windex from the deck.  Tried it 
> last night.  It REALLY illuminated the Windex.
> 
> I clamped it to the stern pulpit.  Had to use a rag to help it grip.
> 
> The tilt has click stops and the swivel is a bit loose so it took a bit of 
> effort to get it aimed just right but it seemed to work fairly well. 
> 
> There may be other similar lights out there that will work better.  What the 
> heck, if it doesn't make a good Windex light for you, you can still use it to 
> work around the boat.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Cleat covers

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

You’ve done it again Dennis,

Now you are going to have another thousand emails hashing out the suddle angle 
differences, line wear patterns, and attachment methods. Might need a 
political/ technical committee, and Cad drawings for Christmas list projects.  
There will be reports of competitive varnishing, and with a new 
naming/copyright/branding group, the intellectual property lawyers will try to 
put their valley girls through college.  Yea, probably even a photo contest and 
yet another C meme. 

I came in to late to know how that foredeck weather cow got it’s start, but 
this time I’m documenting just who started this prototype version!
Probably want to switch to digest mode. . .

Ha, Lee
Cold Scrooge in Seattle 


> On Dec 16, 2016, at 2:14 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This sounds like a really good DIY project.  Not much on the Web other than 
> the couple of products posted (I like the apsltd cleat cover best).  So 
> here's one idea.
> 
> The goal is to make something that lifts a line over the cleat keeping it 
> from going under the horn(s).  So a vertical sided thingie won't really work. 
>  What is needed is an angle, like the apsltd cover.
> 
> Here's an idea.  Measure the cleat and make two trapezoids from wood or 
> StarBoard.  Place one on either side of the cleat.  They could be held in 
> place with some bungee through holes or machine screws with cap nuts.  From 
> the side they would look like this:
>   ___
>  /  \
>/_\
> 
> You could use a router to round all the edges.
> 
> OK, that's Prototype CC Ver. 1.0.  Improvements???
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi John,

I don’t know where they were originally!  Likely there were only two 12volts 
back in the day maybe one in the hanging locker, and the other on the shelf in 
the engine compartment?  

I have 2) 6Volt Trogans under the sink, 2 more under the quarter-berth, and one 
nice Dyno (group 31) under the line locker, somewhat accessible from the 
guarter-berth. We are at the dock way too much, and no solar.  

Not a chance I could put batteries under that aft dinette seat - it’s filled 
with Kathleen’s food and prep stuff.

Hope that helps, Lee
74 C 35-II
Simplicity - Seattle
Now it’s to cold to rain!


> On Dec 13, 2016, at 3:43 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi John,
> I put 4 6v Trojans under the aft part of the dinette seat. It just fits. 
> Works like a charm. The PO put some batteries in the quarter birth and they 
> rotted out the bottom of the locker. What a mess! The starter battery is 
> located in the stbd lazerette for now. 
> 
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>> On Dec 13, 2016, at 4:05 PM, John Rand via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> I have a C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were 
>> originally. Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't 
>> really fit there (currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
>> So where should they go?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> John
>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Looking for used sailboat stuff

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I’d love to contribute some of those trips up and down the mast this year, on 
at least 6 boats, so many were wasted, surely they could have been of more 
value to you!

Cheers, Lee


> On Dec 12, 2016, at 12:30 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Owning a sailboat is getting more and more expensive.  I'm hoping the list's 
> holiday spirit will help me to cut costs with some used stuff.
> 
> Wanted:
> 
> Used wind.  Will consider most directions and speeds between 5 and 11 knots.
> Used DC amps.  12 volts.  Preferably the smokeless kind.
> Used AC amps.  120 volts 60hz will work fine.  
> Used diesel (post combustion is fine).
> Used routes (with way points).  I will return any unused way points.
> Lightly used lumens (preferably from LED lighting).
> Used sunshine, preferably without UVA
> Lightly used tacks and gybes.  Please consider offering equal numbers of port 
> and starboard items
> 
> Please don't offer any used prop walk.  I have just enough.
> 
> Happy Holidays
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

OK Dennis,

What do you mean Snap In?  Did you install snaps or maybe build a teak frame 
and stretch mosquito screen like a painting, and wedge it into the fiberglass 
liner somehow making it stay there?  Surely you have some cleaver hocos-pocus 
or little round head screws?

Please say master. . . 


> On Nov 19, 2016, at 9:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Try some 3M Command strips.  They make some with hook and loop.  I think they 
> may be the picture hanging strips.  At the very least, the adhesive will come 
> off without staining.
> 
> I use 3M Command hooks in the galley to hang important things like bottle 
> openers.  :)  They've been attached to the cabin headliner for a few years 
> now.  I used to use the suction cup hooks.  Had to replace the cups every few 
> years.
> 
> Just for the record, I HATE Velcro strips and the adhesive that stains 
> gelcoat.  I spent hours trying to remove the stuff from Touche' from the PO.  
> Never did get it all off.
> 
> When I had screens made for Touche', I made them so them snap in.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Sat, Nov 19, 2016 at 10:46 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> I'm replacing all of the ceiling access panels (1/8" plywood with cloth 
> covering) with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic).  The existing ones are 
> screwed in.  I want to use Velcro instead.  What is the  recommended adhesive 
> for this? Input from anyone who has first hand experience would be 
> appreciated.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Awesome C race boat on eBay

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

I only looked because you posted it Dennis!  Are you still doing the Mongolian 
yacht club thing or whatever it was?  Should have saved it for April 1st, but 
by then the waterfalls may run dry. . .

Thanks anyway, Lee

> On Nov 13, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I want this!  Wonder what the PHRF rating is?  You'll win every regatta with 
> this boat.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/30FT-C-C-RED-WING-SAILBOAT-SAILS-FAST-12-KNOTS-/322326679472?forcerrptr=true=item4b0c2acfb0:g:PHgAAOSwA3dYHUuD=322326679472
>  
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

Is there a special/diesel pipe dope or sealer I should be using?  Maybe I 
should pull the yellow tape off. . .

Thanks, Lee


> On Nov 10, 2016, at 12:31 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There is a special yellow teflon tape that is supposed to be okay for 
> gasoline, but I don't know of any form that is safe for diesel. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 11/10/2016 3:26 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote:
>> I have never heard that. What I do know is if you are not VERY VERY careful 
>> pieces of tape end up in the fuel system.
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2016 3:24 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Bill Bina - gmail  
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch
>>  
>> Also remember NEVER use teflon tape on fuel lines for any reason. It 
>> dissolves.
>> 
>> Bill Bina
>> 
>>  
>> On 11/10/2016 3:16 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>> Josh, 
>>  I agree with both conclusions.
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> On Thu, Nov 10, 2016 at 2:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> I had never looked before yesterday but was able to quickly find electronic 
>> gage senders.  You wouldn't need to plumb a gage all the way to the gage 
>> board, just wires.
>> 
>> Also remember that the Teflon tape or pipe dope isn't to make a seal it is 
>> to lubricate the threads so that they can screw together tightly enough to 
>> become leak tight.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>>  
>> On Nov 4, 2016 9:44 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" > > wrote:
>> I am concerned about connecting a gauge directly to the engine for fear that 
>> the vibration could cause a catastrophic failure of the gauge or connection 
>> and a loss of oil pressure.
>>  
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>> On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 7:43 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> First, I checked out Mike’s link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.  
>> I’m partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot stripe 
>> and gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft resulting 
>> in multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace the shaft.
>>  
>> I’ve been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding 
>> the appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing 
>> pressure switch setup is not necessarily ‘fail-safe’.  Probably the most 
>> difficult thing will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I 
>> wonder if any other lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?
>>  
>> Thanks to all listers for your feedback,
>> Ron
>> Ron Ricci
>> S/V Patriot
>> C 37+
>> Bristol, RI
>> 
>> (978) 877-0369 
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com 
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Hoyt, Mike
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch
>>  
>> Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure 
>> really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds 
>> there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is 
>> good.  I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then 
>> you Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in 
>> doubt you just take a quick look at the gauge.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can 
>> see the picture in the gallery link here 
>> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Persistence
>> 
>> Halifax
>> 
>> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our 

Re: Stus-List Perkins M30

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Jason,

We have a Perkins M30 in our 35-II.  Sweet engine, compact and fairly quiet, 
but not as smooth and quiet as the Atomic-4 we had in our earlier boat.  When I 
needed to replace the starter, I had to pull the alternator and stack all my 
extensions to make a tool long enough to reach the boats at the transmission 
end of the engine.  It was easier the second time. . .  Mounts might be a 
little different but close.  

Do  you know about Moyer Marine?

Good luck, Lee  


> On Nov 3, 2016, at 5:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Are you replacing another diesel or an AT4?  That will make a big difference.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> On Nov 3, 2016 5:04 PM, "Jason Shoemake via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> I'd like to get the lists thoughts on  repowering a '78, 29 II with an M 30. 
> Anyone done this, any experience with these two?
> I've located the donor power plant for around $3000 USD. Needs strainer, 
> racor, and maybe a few other things. Seller says cables come with it, not 
> sure if that's electrical cables or throttle cables.
> 
> 
> Jason Shoemake
> SV Bijou
> South MS
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Boat handling skill / midship cleat

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Tom & Graham, & all,

Seems to me you don’t really need that clever midship cleat unless you are 
rafting up and not tying off on a shroud base.  We just drop a bowline over the 
winch, make a couple loops around the first dock cleat and the boat parallel 
parks beautifully.  if you have any kind of headwind or current leave the boat 
in gear or balance with power.  Check it out at the dock before you leave next 
time.  You will likely find the winch will hold your boat to the dock better 
than a midship line, plus it will allow you to stop the boat, before the bow 
hits the dock - if you get it secured to the first cleat. Hand holding the 
line, falling over kayaks on the dock, etc don’t work.

One-line docking is so easy, you can walk around, fix a bow line, forward 
spring, stern line, whatever and then kill the engine.  I’m a broker, scared 
and respectful of others pricey boats, and often have to move boats that I 
really don’t know.  Docking with one line is such a good trick, I’m surprised 
they don’t teach it, I always do.  

Now spinning the unknown boat, backing into the slings, and then discovering 
they want you to remove the backstay and toping lift, to be able to haul the 
boat.  Well that’s another story. . .  

Cheers, Lee


> On Oct 27, 2016, at 7:22 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Graham
> 
> Like this? 
> http://www.fisheriessupply.com/johnson-marine-toe-rail-folding-cleat-48-510 
> 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Oct 27, 2016, at 7:26 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2016 01:18:07 + (UTC)
>> From: Graham Young > >
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
>> >
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
>> Message-ID: <1892052474.252786.1477617487...@mail.yahoo.com 
>> >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I was recently thinking of adding a mid-ship cleat to my C for just this 
>> purpose, but did not like the idea of putting it through the deck. ?Was 
>> recently aboard an old S2 that has a slotted toe rail a lot like C's. ?The 
>> owner had added a mid-ship cleat with a sideways, U-shaped flanged base (if 
>> you can imagine it from that description) that was bolted through the 
>> toerail. ?Had never seen a cleat with that kind of base before. ?It seemed 
>> like a nice solution.?Graham YoungS/V Spellbound1981 C 32 
>> 
>>   
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Newton and Wally

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Steve Dwight Rick and all,

In a case of last in first out, I got an email from Wally.  He had a seriously 
challenging "night from hell", blew the snubbers, bent the bow-roller off, and 
motored into the storm to keep the boat off the rocks.  He is technology 
challenged, but recuperating very well, Wally style, and I expect we will hear 
from him when he "comes up for air" as they say.

" I'm grateful that I have C that is nimble and can turn on a dime, with low 
freeboard and windage.  I doubt that I could have fought my way out of that 
with a heavier boat with full keel or smaller rudder.” Wally

Relieved, Lee 


> On Sep 10, 2016, at 7:52 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That's a decent hope to wish on most of us
> 
> On Tuesday, September 6, 2016, S Thomas via CnC-List  > wrote:
> I hope that Wally is hunkered down in a nice safe marina bar right about now.
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List East River insights/ Hobie 33 comments

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Those are fun boats!  I have great memories of trips on a Hobbie 33.  First 
overnight with such dense fog we could hardly see the bow, long trip with my 
wife, I was stuck in the quarter/pipe berth and she was in the bow, and a fine 
spinnaker run by moonlight.

Enjoy, Lee


> On Aug 31, 2016, at 1:11 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you all for the advice!
> 
> It is an outboard in a well.  A newish 5hp tohatsu 4-stroke.  I'm trying to 
> talk him into borrowing a 10hp (the boat's max rating) for the trip.
> 
> He is set on doing this weekend...  I kind of wanted to go but, not really on 
> this boat!  lol
> 
> Danny
> 
> On 8/31/2016 3:40 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List wrote:
>> Nothing to be afraid of generally. Especially with the current in his favor. 
>> Early is definitely better than later in the day. Traffic can get things 
>> rocking in there. Not good for an outboard.
>> JP
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 31, 2016, at 2:42 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> I have a friend that just purchased a Hobie 33.  its a very light boat, 
>>> 4000 lbs, and very narrow, 8' beam, He want to deliver from rockaway beack 
>>> back to Narragansett bay this Saturday. His initial intention was to run 
>>> the outside of long island but the forecast is for some big wind and 
>>> probably some big seas.
>>> 
>>> We were researching the east river as an alternative so he could go up LI 
>>> sound for a more protected journey.  The current is very much in his favor 
>>> as low tide is 8am.  the current will be slowing at that time and turning 
>>> toward LI sound.  One of his crew is really afraid if the river.  I think 
>>> the going on the inside is a better choice and he is on the fence.  I 
>>> thought I would throw it out to you guys and see if anyone that has 
>>> experience with navigating the east river would offer some words of wisdom.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Danny
>>> T40
>>> Rum Runner IV
>>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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>> 
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>> are greatly appreciated!
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 - List of Hull Numbers etc.

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

So who’s maintaining that list of hull numbers?  Frank has hull #1, and Jeff 
hull 115 I think?


On Aug 17, 2016, at 4:57 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> And I’ve got hull #009.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 16, 2016, at 9:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> John,
>> 
>> I echo what you say about the list and the info provided by members.   
>> 
>> Regarding hull numbers, mine is 88, and I recall that Wally’s is 90.
>> 
>> As for creating a blog, check out http://www.blogspot.com.   It is free and 
>> pretty simple to start off.
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fire extinguishers - expiration and inspection

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Have you owned the boat for 15 years?  As a broker its a running joke with 
surveyors- you check the fire extinguishers to find out when the boat sold last.

Cheers, Lee
On Aug 3, 2016, at 5:55 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Interesting discussion...i changed out my extinguishers this summer because 
> they were 15 years old.
> 
> Does anyone know how to properly dispose of old extinguishers that are still 
> charged??
> 
> Mike
> Atacama 33mkii
> Toronto 
> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
> ___
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Stus-List Shouldn't there be some kind of Wally Award?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I went to Dave’s Windstar site, and I think we need some kind of Wally Award 
for folks, not only fixing up these good old boats, but documenting and sharing 
their process. I know, I know, he’s not starting with a hole in the water, but 
let’s at least give him a little encouragement, and lots of thanks.
This is, after all what,makes this list so great, and helps us all keep 
sailing. . .

2 cents, Lee
s/v Simplicity
A 1974 C 35-II project.
As Gary says, West of Ballard.
 

On Jul 24, 2016, at 7:43 PM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
wrote:

> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page.html
> 
> Plenty of upgrades, dedicated start battery, new panel, ACR, battery monitor, 
> revised grounding etc.
> 
> Just the engine key relocation to consider and the LED lighting upgrades to 
> finish plus installation of Calframo fans and .. well the fridge and maybe an 
> automatic bilge pump.   So, nearly done!
> 
> Other work also documented and posted.
> 
> Dave  33-2 Windstar.
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
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Stus-List Loctite sealant for marine use? Maybe not?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hum, 

I clicked on the Loctite link below, and it’s NOT recommended with butyl!  
WHAT?  I thought my hull/deck joint was put together with butyl, so it could be 
tightened up - only if leaking.  It’s lasted 32 years, so C got a lot right!  
Not sure I’d want to risk/mess with that record. . .  

Remember folks lots of people have to reinvent the wheel, every Spring.  It’s 
often good to check the archives and what’s worked in the past.

Just checking, Lee


Not Recommended For

Exterior applications when rain is expected before sealant reaches initial cure
Vertical surface repair (use on horizontal surfaces only)
Aircraft runway or tarmac use
Joint depths greater than 3/8' (9.5 mm) without the use of a backer rod. In 
joints deeper than 3/8' (9.5 mm) the sealant may bubble if applied too deep or 
if substrate is not absolutely dry
Contact with oil-based caulking compounds, butyl caulking compounds and 
silicone sealants(Uncured and cured)



On Jun 1, 2016, at 9:57 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Agreed. I just like that someone has been testing the Loctite polyurethane 
> for the past 10 years, above and below the waterline. Quikcrete and Loctite 
> are the same price point more or less. Take a look at the article. Good read.
> 
> On Wed, Jun 1, 2016 at 9:32 AM S Thomas via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> The Quikrete product is intended for buildings.
> Doesn't mean it won't work for other things.
>  
>  
> http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/index.htm/Paint-D%C3%A9cor/Maintenance/Concrete-Sealer-Supp/Cement-Acc/Miscellaneous/300mL-Grey-Self-Leveling-Polyurethane-Sealant/_/N-2pqfZ67l/Ne-67n/Ntk-All_EN/R-I2622729?Ntt=self+leveling
>  
> Steve.
> Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40, 
> and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine 
> version.
> 
> Loctite Polyurethene here 
> Practical Sailor Article here
> 
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> 

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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

You didn’t say anything about reduced water flow.  That would be the first 
indicator for over heating, and I’d check your impeller first and then ALL the 
hoses for scale.  I’ve seen a lot of stuff stuck to the walls of the hose 
between the strainer and the water pump.  The entrance to the water pump is 
surprisingly small, and a scrap of scale could easily reduce the flow.  Work 
through all the hoses, and see if your flow doesn’t increase.  Yes the little 
one to the exhaust elbow gets clogged easy.

Everyone wants to go nuclear, worst it can be before doing the easy stuff.  Or 
maybe you already did all that. . .

2 cents, Lee 



On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com 
> 
> 
> 
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Stus-List winches were too powerful?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

To powerful - yea well we did break one of the teeth off on a big triple speed 
winch on the Frers 41.  Not sure if it was a Lewmar or what, but the next week 
it was gone - to expensive to replace, the secondary winches moved up, and we’d 
just have to move the spinnaker to the coach house winch like on a smaller 
boat. 


On May 27, 2016, at 9:44 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I put Lewmar ST48's in place of the original Barients, They work well enough 
> and I have the option of upgrading them to electric when I get too feeble. 
> I have never heard anyone say that their winches were too powerful. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 


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Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Why are you not bolting onto the stud?  What am I missing here?


On May 25, 2016, at 6:38 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Hi All. I thought I had found what I needed locally and after emailing the 
> business twice to ensure it was in stock before making the drive (and I was 
> assured it was in stock) - it wasn't. He had a pair of used ones on hand and 
> gave them to me to make up for the error. I asked to make sure they fit the 
> trojans and so he screwed them onto a battery he had there (same guy I 
> purchased my batteries from) and I thought I was good to go. 
> 
> When I got to the boat, 1.5 hours away .. I discovered that one of them was 
> stripped. I was FURIOUS. He literally screwed them into a batter while I 
> stood and watched so he KNEW that one was stripped. Why he went ahead and 
> wasted my time knowing that he was wasting my time is just beyond me. 
> 
> I had to summarize the engine one way or the other so I wrapped some tin foil 
> around the stud to get the stripped adapter to stay on. Sketchy. I'm willing 
> to use some conductive epoxy at this point to make it a permanent thing but I 
> would rather not. I also don't know which epoxy to use for such a thing. I'm 
> all ears though I want this done with.
> 
> Anyway, I'm still at a loss where to buy this. All the online places I could 
> find are in the states and want over 20 USD for shipping, which in and of 
> itself isn't the worst thing .. but they are using Fed Ex and UPS so it'll be 
> 20 USD to ship and another *surprise* amount at the door. I can't stomach 
> that, on principle if nothing else. The adapters are typically $5 a pair.
> 
> Canadian Tire does not have these, I checked two stores. Napa doesn't have 
> it! They have the 3/8 flavour. I need 5/16.
> 
> Again, this is what I am after:
> https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/product/STUD-TOP-POST-FEMALE-1PR-PK/_/R-GRO82-9130
> 
> Any push in the right direction would be much appreciated. Crimping new 
> battery cables isn't out of the question but I don't have the tool and 
> removing the battery cables is a LOT of work.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
> 
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Re: Stus-List Spot tracker

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

We tested the Inreach last year and now require them for each boat on the Coho 
Ho Ho Rally from Seattle to SF/SD.  They provide tracking data, and with an 
Oceans weather package text weather info, and with a smart phone the ability to 
send small text messages.  Hopefully we will have a better responce this year.


On May 25, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Dennis,
> 
> Fred owns a Spot and can tell you about his experience.  For the 2014 A2B the 
> RC went with Spots to save money.  Several boats, including ours, found them 
> to be unreliable.  We had to remember to broadcast our postiion every hour so 
> people didn't think we were stationary. The auto update did not work.  This 
> year we are using YellowBricks. Fred's worked great for sending short texts.
> 
> I think the inReach now has weather capabilities.  I'd look at it too.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, May 25, 2016 at 1:44 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Thinking about offshore race coming up.  The race uses Kattack for race 
> tracking.  Last time we did it we just used the app on an iPhone and it 
> worked for most of the race except when we were out of cellphone range.  The 
> app was free.
> 
> A couple of other races in my area also use Kattack.
> 
> REI.com has the Gen3 Spot on sale for $112 + free shipping.  As I understand 
> it, the annual Spot fee is $150.  
> 
> Is it worth it to buy a Spot and pop for the $150 annual fee?  The Admiral 
> could track Touche' when I'm doing coastal transits without her (not often).
> 
> BTW, Touche' has DSC, MMSI, etc. so I don't need the Spot for distress 
> calling, just race and transit tracking.  However, the Spot is apparently 
> waterproof so it could go with an MOB or go in the dinghy.
> 
> Can also use it to track land trips.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Whisker pole?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

I’d suggest waiting till you can get the carbon spinnaker pole.  It will make 
all the difference in how often you use it.  It will take the compression load 
to crank the Asym around to allow you to sail deeper, and maybe line up better 
with the waves, a good offshore trick.  Any two-part adjustable pole will be 
heavy and much harder to manage.  A good rigger can help with the track cars 
and clamp to keep the rattling and banging to a min. 

2 cents, Lee 
  


On May 19, 2016, at 10:08 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I got one for my 35-1 with a 145%, and am really happy with it.  Best thing 
> for cruising, especially light air (ie, Long Island Sound), not to mention an 
> essential item for non-spinnaker racing.  I didn't go for the mast-mount, and 
> it  can be a bear to get the pole set.  Once you've clipped in the outboard 
> end it takes a strong person at the mast to extend, plus good coordination 
> with the sheets. If you don't mind the windage I think the mast mount would 
> be great for cruising.
> 
> Not sure about the asym, would you use it to windward as with the genoa, or 
> to leeward?
> 
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
> 
> 
> On 5/19/2016 12:39 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>> I'm considering a Forespar Line Control whisker pole (LC 13-24) for my C 
>> 37+.  I'd like to use the mast mounted storage option as well.  I would be 
>> poling out a 145% furling headsail and an asymmetric spinnaker.  Does anyone 
>> have any thoughts?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S /V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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Re: Stus-List New Stereo...phhhhfffft....

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi David,

Most boat/car stereos are homeowner wired.  Don’t you just reach behind the 
unit and wiggle the rats nest of wires, that’s what the rest of us do. . .



On Apr 13, 2016, at 2:30 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:

> I stink at wiring so...
> 
> Installed new stereo last year.  All was fine when boat went to bed for 
> winter.  Went to turn it on this spring.  Nuthin'.  
> 
> The panel light, however is glowing faintly.
> 
> I assume that means a short somewhere?   At panel or at stereo?  Everything 
> else at panel is fine so I assume it is not that, but as Im said I stink at 
> wiring et al.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> David F. Risch

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Stus-List Helpful Vancouver Surveyors

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I’m looking for a few good, through surveyor recommendations in the Vancouver 
area.  I am not looking for a "doctor death”, but want a few good 
recommendations of folks that can explain things to a realistic owner, and not 
miss any 500$ issues.  In my experience the ability to actually explain things, 
trumps engineer heads "who know it all”.  If you have something bad to say, 
don’t put it on the list. . .

Thanks for your help, Lee
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Re: Stus-List is there a keel bolt under the mast?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Yep,

If I pull the duck tape off the hole in the mast, there’s a big nut down there. 
. .  I’d have to remove the green flannel Kathleen sewed around the mast and 
the insulation, so I guess I‘m not looking, and you’ll just have to take my 
word - I think my keel is still under the boat. . .

Or, just sail the boat, till you have a sweet smile too. . .  The 35-II's 
really are great comfortable sweet sailing boats!  Even if those light weight 
MK-II’s like JIm Watt’s Paradigm Shift kick my butt with a few good puffs and 
local knowledge.  Maybe we will make it back to the C RDV in BC this year. . 
. 

See you there?

Lee in Seattle
s/v Simplicity
a 1974 C 35-II



On Feb 25, 2016, at 2:50 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  
wrote:

> I have a C 35 MKII and was wondering if there is a keel bolt under the 
> mast. I was talking to Dennis and he has a Mk I version and he told me that 
> his does not have a keel bolt under his mast. Does anybody know the answer to 
> this? I would rather not have to pull the mast to tighten the bolts. Has 
> anybody with the MKII version looked under there? are there things to be 
> concerned with? I don’t seem to have any issues and don’t want to open too 
> many cans of worms that I don’t have to ;-)
> Cheers,
> 
> Bill Hoyne
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C MkII
> in Victoria,BC
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Stus-List rigid vang or boomkicker / toping lift discussion

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis and all,

I hate topping lifts!  I sail on a lot of different boats, and consider topping 
lifts a got-cha!  Taking a Valiant 42 North, we were over powered a little bit, 
so I dropped the traveler, and sheeted down the main to flatten it - I had all 
the outhaul already. Kathleen came up and said, ”You’d better flatten this boat 
- the owners wife is a power boater, and pretty miserable down here!" What - no 
wonder were were trying to burry the rail, the topping lift got me again!

This year we took the Coho Ho Ho rally folks up for a rigging seminar with Port 
Townsend Rigging.  Lisa pointed out that she considers the vang part of the 
reefing system, and they spec stronger vangs to raise the boom end to your 
reefing clue - Lisa is tiny and she can reef in a minute or two.  I was 
impressed.

Cheers, Lee  



On Sep 29, 2015, at 8:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the 
> main to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is not 
> hoisted.
> 
> In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or boomkicker.  
> If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom enough to twist 
> off the main.
> 
> The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you to 
> detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.
> 
> Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular, wire 
> topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.  In 
> severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten pocket 
> gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they will, 
> over time, cause damage to the stitching.
> 
> We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is 
> always detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a 
> Garhauer rigid boom vang.
> 
> On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the 
> mainsail is not hoisted.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___


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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... - MotionComfort?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi All,

One thing to consider is the motion comfort - bigger heavier boats aren’t 
bounced around as much as beamy light ones.  The best description of Ted 
Brewers Motion Comfort Number I’ve seen is at 
http://www.wavetrain.net/boats-a-gear/281-crunching-numbers-brewer-comfort-ratio

Course I’m biased, we are on a 35-II which is an anomy in even the C lineup, 
with a long narrow waterline.  I was once delivering a Catalina 350, quartering 
1-2’ wave slaps were bouncing & juddering the boat from the aft quarter, and I 
thought I must have snagged something, which was beating the hull up!  Once I 
went dead down wind, lining up with the waves it was quiet and stable.  

Hope that helps, Lee



On Sep 28, 2015, at 2:27 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List  
wrote:

> The chart maps stiffness as heel from 1 pounds per square inch on the sails. 
> The three Landfalls,
> LF 42 - LF 43 - LF 38, have a sail area / displacement rating of around 15. 
> The 30-1 is 18.4, and
> the 41 is 19.35.  The Landfalls are stiffer due to less sail area, the 41 due 
> to a deep keel.
> 
> I have wondered if normalizing back to a common SA / Disp would be a more 
> useful comparison.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
> 
> 
>  
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 15:12:55 -0500 
> From: "Dennis C."  
> To: CnClist  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... 
> Message-ID: 
>  
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
> 
> Isn't it wonderful to have a great resource like cncphotoalbum.com?  The 
> diagram is under "Technical Info" then "Stability Diagram".  The direct 
> link is: 
> 
> . 
> 
> To be picky, it looks like the LF 42 is stiffer.  Otherwise the 30 MK 1 
> gets it. 
> 
> Also, since the site is a user supported resource, support can be given 
> at: 
> 
>  
> 
> Dennis C. 
> 
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
> 
> > Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows 
> > the relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C's. It would be pretty 
> > useful in this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself. 
> > 
> > Gary 
> > 30-1 #593 
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
> > *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
> > *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe  
> > *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM 
> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please... 
> > 
> > The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C made. 
> > 
> > Joe 
> > 
> > Coquina 
> > 
> > C 35 MK I 
> > 
> 
> ___
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Stus-List a pink bra from my flag halyard.

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

I’m sure you had it coming. . .

Did you miss last week's Pink regatta, a fundraiser for cancer research - way 
over the top Pink


On Sep 17, 2015, at 2:15 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> A female friends boal was named Sly Boots. A male friend changed the name to 
> Nasty Boobs using black electrical tape. Funny thing is I got blamed, and she 
> hung a pink bra from my flag halyard. 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
> 
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Re: Stus-List 34+ lower intermediate shrouds

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

Aren’t there suppose to be a plastic gasket/spacer thingy that fills the hole 
and keeps the socket head down in the slot?  Hum - I keep saying talk to your 
rigger. . .

2cents, Lee


On Aug 23, 2015, at 4:46 AM, davepulaski via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 UPDATE:
 
 Boy am I glad I asked you guys about this!  I went up the mast yesterday - 
 the toggles on these two shrouds were not pulled all the way down  seated in 
 their sockets, thus causing the unfair lead out of the mast.   I hate to 
 think what might have happened if I loaded up the rig and tried to sail like 
 this.
 
 I just disconnected them one at a time on the deck, went up  jiggled the 
 shroud where it enters the mast until the ball dropped down into its socket. 
 
 -Dave
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Re: Stus-List vang, CC 35 Mk II

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Richard,

Just use a snack block to your toe-rail when you ned a little down-wing vang.  
Save your money and buy a good hard-vang that will likely attach to the mast 
above those blocks  The hard-vang will save you all the grief of the topping 
lift - a real quality of life improvement.

Or, you might just use a couple spectra loops, to create a attachment point 
high enough to clear.
http://www.rei.com/product/751699/black-diamond-10mm-dynex-runner

Cheers, Lee
s/v Simplicity
1974 CC 35-II
Seattle



On Aug 23, 2015, at 6:52 AM, Richard H. Bernstein via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I am attaching a (Block and line) vang to our 1984 CC35, but the housing for 
 the swing keel turning block is in the way at the mast base. I'm wondering 
 how others have dealt with this problem.
 
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Re: Stus-List Refrigerator Fan...

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi David,

We are using an early version without switch, something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A10-2606-FridgeCool-11-28-Switch/dp/B002N5W8Q4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1438283113sr=8-1keywords=rv+fridge+fan

Hope that helps, Lee
s/v Simplicity CC 35-II
Seattle



On Jul 30, 2015, at 11:46 AM, David via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 My new refrigeration is doing quite well.  However I would like to better 
 circulate air within the box to equalize temps.   Trying to avoid hard wiring 
 and want to know if anyone has found a low amp battery powered fan that I can 
 turn on when needed without a lot installation hoopla...
 
 Thanks in advance.
 
 David F. Risch
 1981 40-
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
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Stus-List CC 35-III Headroom?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Anyone know the headroom in a 1986 35-III?  Boats out of town or I’d measure.
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Re: Stus-List Cruisin' Music - NOT!!

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I have a hard enough time keeping up with the Startrek theme, and now feel 
really jerked around.  Not a CC in sight. . .

No points, Lee



On Jul 13, 2015, at 11:23 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avaSdC0QOUM
 
 
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY 
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
 On Jul 13, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Toots  the Maytals. 
 
 There's no accounting for taste or mood. As a general rule I listen to 
 everything. In practice I primarily listen to old 60s reggae, ska, and rock 
 n roll (old and new). I have no more time or energy for 'easy listening' or 
 anything depressing (classical != easy listening). Happy music only please. 
 Bob Marley gets a lot of playtime both on and off the boat. Legend is the 
 worst Bob Marley album.
 
 There is so much good music out there how can you settle on any one thing?
 
 Steve
 Suhana, CC 32
 Toronto
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Internet access on charter boat

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I’d suggest taking your smart phones, setting them to use wifi, and bring your 
iPads for email, navigation, weather, and renting the Iridum-GO.  It’s a 
satellite based hotspot, that should take good care of you.  Oceans has a 
program called Weathernet with some of the most recent data available.  It’s 
not a sat/pone for your ditch bag, but really useful, even if a bit slow.  See 
the Ocens Rental page at http://www.ocens.com/Iridium-GO-Rental-P654C15.aspx  

I haven’t used it yet, but Oceans did a great talk at the Coho Ho Ho Rally here 
in Seattle, and are quite supportive.

Hope that helps, Lee
Keep us posted. . .



On Jul 12, 2015, at 8:42 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 Hi- We are planning a January charter with friends in Belize and have never 
 done this before.  My wife is an author and might need Internet access while 
 we are on the boat, and I am sure there will be times we are out of any local 
 network.  What are the options for internet access in remote areas?  Thanks- 
 Dave
 
 Aries
 1990 CC 34+
 New London, CT
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List CC 35 Mk II for sale

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

That’s a killer price!  Should sell quick!  I couldn’t see the specs, was that 
a dishwasher?  Ok just kidding. . .


On Jun 25, 2015, at 4:23 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
wrote:

 Well, my CC 35 k II is for sale.  Expresso is on Yachtworld.  She is one of 
 the best around.  She has modern electronics (Comnav / Nexus), radar, below 
 deck autopilot, new Ultraleather interior with memory foam, new paint job 
 2010, carbon fiber main and 142% genoa, etc.  She is priced to sell.  The add 
 on Yachtworld is still being completed but can be seen at:
 
 http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1975/C%26C-35-MkII-2855801/RI/United-States#.VYvjP_lViko
 
 She is very fast and well loved.  She was first overall in the Newport Yacht 
 Club Mitchell Regatta last year
 
 Why am I doing this?  I just bought a CC 37 Plus.
 
 Gary
 S/V Expresso and S/V High Maintenance
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
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Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

OK Martin,

I’ll bite. . .  Can you share a few offshore fishing tips?

I know the cheap booze spray bottle trick, but you probably invented it with a 
sneeze to the gills. . . 

Thanks, Lee  





On Jun 18, 2015, at 10:25 AM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 If the story teller was Texas John then it was the '77 delivery back from 
 Hawaii following our 1st Transpac as a crew on the CC 39 Midnight Special.
 
 That delivery was one of my favorite of my 4 east bound Hawaii deliveries.  
 Great weather and crew, reading in the cockpit by moon light, 2 weeks on one 
 tack, getting ready for night watch by putting on a T-shirt, and teaching the 
 crew the words to Jimmy Buffett's Cheeseburger in Paradise.  We hit the 
 dock at Shilshole around dawn on a weekday.  By 9AM we were loaded into my 
 1969 Ford Econoline van headed to one of the crew's lakeside houses for a 
 party.  It was a great year to be young, single, and hooked on offshore 
 sailing.
 
 The one thing that would have improved it would be to know what I now know 
 about offshore fishing under sail.  Back in 77 no one on the crew knew how to 
 catch tuna and mahi mahi.  With what I learned on later Hawaii deliveries we 
 could have been eating like kings most of the trip back to Seattle.
 
 Martin DeYoung
 Calypso
 1971 CC 43
 Seattle


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Re: Stus-List Pacific Sea stories / Offshore fishing tips?

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,

The gaff or winch handle is dangerous and messy on board.  When you get the 
fish close enough, just spray their gills with cheap booze.  It goes straight 
to the fish “lungs” and they die a quick quiet death.  You don’t have to fight 
with a bouncing fish splashing blood all over the place, or getting spines in 
your legs or hands.  It’s really surprising how quick it works, easy trick if 
you you didn’t finish off the fish booze too.

2 cents, Lee

 
On Jun 18, 2015, at 12:51 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Lee, 
 What is the cheap booze trick? I just use a metal winch handle.
 
 Doug Mountjoy
 svPegasus
 LF38


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Re: Stus-List Rig - crack - terms

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

That’s OK Russ,  

We don’t mind.  You’re our sweetest old fuddy duddy” and a very helpful sailor!
See ya in Telegraph Harbor where you can teach me a couple more terms.

Ha, Lee


On May 14, 2015, at 11:01 AM, Russ  Melody via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 
 A little term bitchin' here. 
 
 The threaded thingy that goes inside the mast to hold the tangs tight is a 
 called through-bolt (even though in most cases it is a stud) not a tie-bar. 
 And it goes inside a compression tube so it can be properly tightened without 
 deflecting the mast sides towards each other. The compression tube was 
 especially important in wooden masts to prevent movement and elongation of 
 holes.
 
 I may be pissin in the wind here and I concede most people use the term salon 
 instead of saloon, but I endeavour to preserve to use of as many other old 
 terms as I can.
 
 Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1
 Vancouver Island
 
 
 At 07:24 AM 14/05/2015, you wrote:
 Mike et al:
 
 the most difficult one is getting the cap shroud in its tang and then 
 screw the tang into the tie bar inside the mast.the shroud and the tang 
 have to rotate as one. 
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Stus-List Clipper rescue story

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Found it: 
http://www.lulu.com/shop/andrew-taylor/179w-one-seven-nine-west/paperback/product-22065786.html



BTW, thinking of books and being adrift and the fact that you have 
time to read for a change, do you recall the amateur sailor who fell 
off the yacht in mid-Pacific during the Clipper Around the World 
race? I think it may have been just over a year ago. I recently 
heard that he has released a book, apparently sponsored in part by 
the company which made the PLB that allowed him to be rescued. I 
believe the title of the book is 179 West after the longitude where 
it happened. Sounds like a pretty interesting read.


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Lee Youngblood   l...@1gigharbor.com   (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue NW #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Stus-List doger snaps, drilled hole - resins, tube epoxy etc

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

Were you using the right size bit, for the 
screws?  Were they blowing out the gelcoat when 
you screwed them in?  I think most installers 
just drill, maybe smear a little 101 and screw 
down the snap.  Are you making it a big project? 
If you need to fill a bunch of small holes, you 
might want to consider the two-part mixing tubes, 
even if you use one puddy knife to mix on 
another, it's a pretty quick and easy system. 
I've used the EZ Fair 7050 Epoxy Fairing 
Compound: 
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/pettit-paint-ez-fair-7050-epoxy-fairing-compound-7050cart


It's a good way to mix and fill a little hole by 
hole.  Yes, drilling, routing out the balsa, 
cleaning, prepping and  injecting uncatalyzed 
resin, sucking out, mixing catalyzed resin, and 
re-injecting may be a better, correct method, 
but for little holes an quick fixes, the tube 
stuff is very handy, an should be good for your 
snap holes and more.


2 cents, Lee





I bought a used Natty dodger for my boat and am 
faced with the same task for the 30+ holes to 
install the Lift-the-Dot® fasteners that it 
requires to fasten the canvass to the deck.  
I did try to counter sink holes in the gelcoat 
and screw into the top fiberglass layer 
underneath, but that turned out to be a disaster.
I have done lots of through bolting for various 
things over the years without difficulty, but 
this was my first experience trying to use self 
tapping fasteners (look like wood screws) in the 
deck and it was not a positive experience. The 
gelcoat is very thick in places, and in spite of 
my attempts to counter sink the gelcoat, often 
as not the screw chips out a huge flake. 
Removing the canvas female fastener from the 
deck mounted pins can take some force, and the 
screws pull out of the thin top layer of fiber 
glass. So I concluded after several 
failures that I need to stop what I was doing 
and use the drill and fill procedure. Then came 
winter.


In all of these discussions about drilling and 
filling over the years, everyone defaults to 
using West System epoxy resin to fill the areas 
needing reinforcement.

What is it about this product that makes it so superior?
Why not use a polyester resin? - at least gelcoat will stick to it.
Like most of us older guys I had experience with 
automotive body fillers in my younger years.

They are all polyester. What is wrong with using that?

Some of the Lift-the-Dot® 
fasteners are difficult to release and I don't 
know how to fix them. I have been thinking about 
changing over to the flat, 1/4 turn fasteners 
that are commonly used now. Is it a practical 
solution? Has anyone tried this?


Spring project.

Steve Thomas
CC27 MKIII


--
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Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue NW #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List Forward hatches on the 1981 CC30 MK1

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Peter,

I had friends that circumnavigated and had their windows replaced in 
NZ.  The NZ folks just laughed at the American yachties every time 
they saw screws in the plex and mumbled leaky boat.  There is NO 
way to have enough flex/adhesion space around the screws.  They use 
very large overlaps, industrial Dow or Silkaflex, the stuff glass 
buildings use, and require a week in the yard for it to cure without 
flexing.  They hold the edges own with small screws and fender 
washers while it sets, then remove the screws and do a 3/4 fillet 
around the windows.  Their boats sail in much rougher waters than we 
are used too. . .


2 cents, Lee


In my case (CC 27 MkIII) the PO had screws installed at the 4 
corners of the hatch acrylic into the cast lid - I don't think those 
are original ... It appears to be where mine is now leaking from (of 
course!) Also the windows were re-bedded (probably acrylic replaced) 
with screws included every 6-inches or so ... that's (of course) 
where the windows are now leaking from (in fact the screws have 
damaged the cabin side fiberglass around the window opening and I 
can even pull a couple screws right out of the cabin side  
completely stripped!)


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC


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