Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet w/ USB?

[PME via CnC-List]

My old 29mk1 was setup with one GFCI protecting all outlets.  Have you verified 
that the head outlet is
 separate by tripping the GFCI and seeing if there is still power? 


On another note,  they now have combination USB-120VAC outlets.  Does anyone 
know if it comes in a GFCI version?


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Sep 23, 2015, at 10:17 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2015 21:54:02 -0600
> From: "David Donnelly" mailto:da...@gnuattitude.ca>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List GFCI Outlet
> Message-ID: <00d901d0f5b3$7fef1370$7fcd3a50$@gnuattitude.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not a
> GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the
> recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is it
> enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the difference
> between a hardware store "weather proof" or a marine equivalent. A search of
> the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is possible the marine
> variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire vs solid wire like
> would be used in a home.
> 
> 
> 
> Bad thing is we don't even have access to shore power on our lake...but
> standards are standards where insurance is concerned.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David Donnelly 
> 
> C&C 26 Mistress

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Re: Stus-List Spreader lights

[PME via CnC-List]

I have been real happy at times hanging one of these lights in the cockpits.  
They have a built-in hanger which can be used all over the boat. I store them 
hanging on the inside hand rail. They are cheap and often free (with coupon).


http://www.harborfreight.com/27-led-portable-worklightflashlight-62532.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/emergency-39-led-triangle-worklight-62158.html 



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Aug 27, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2015 08:07:44 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader lights
> Message-ID: <9aa2595b-fa49-4059-a5b8-445456f30...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The Admiral and I researched long and hard for a light to illuminate the 
> cockpit for meals, etc.  We settled on a UST 10 Day Lantern by Ultimate 
> Survival Technology.  Sells for under $30 on Amazon. 
> 
> http://www.ustbrands.com/product/10-day-led-lantern-glo/ 
> 
> 
> Has bright, dim and strobe. We like it.  The light is not harsh. 
> 
> Dennis C.

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Stus-List SOS light flare replacement

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Is anyone familiar with the Sirius Signal SOS Distress light?   The claim is 
that it complies with USCG requirements replacing flares, and that it does not 
expire.  I just read about it from an Active Captain post which includes a 
Defender link for those interested:

http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp 


I would be interested of anyones experience with these.  Thanks.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Stus-List Practical Sailor C&C 33

[PME via CnC-List]

There is a nice article in Practical Sailor's September issue (available 
online) on the C&C 33 mark II.
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Heaving-to - sail ratios for higher winds

[PME via CnC-List]

Fred and Andy, 

I have only attempted to hove to once with the LF38 and I did not pay much 
attention since I was more interested in lunch at the time.   

On my 29mk1, I played around quite a bit.  I found that I could get the 29 to 
properly heave to with many tweaks  but  mostly by rolling in the headsail 
some.  Only then would I see the noted slick.  Even then, eventually with some 
gust, wave, or roll I would find the 29 requiring additional tweaking or 
maintaining forward motion.   From what I read this is true with most fin 
keels, boats that turn on a dime, are not as stable to hove to and start 
forereaching.   I think I read that in Lin  and Larry Pardey’s book on storm 
tactics.   Below is a quote on forereaching from John Kretschmer from his 
recent book which I have enjoyed reading.  I do agree that heaving to with 
forward motion is also comfortable.   I hope to better master both techniques. 


"Forereaching is my preferred tactic for coping with severe weather. In some 
ways forereaching is similar to heaving-to except that the boat is moving 
forward, its natural motion, and not crabbing to leeward. By forereaching you 
trade the slick caused by heaving-to for the stability caused by having some 
forward motion."

Kretschmer, John (2013-09-27). Sailing a Serious Ocean: Sailboats, Storms, 
Stories and Lessons Learned from 30 Years at Sea (Kindle Locations 2956-2959). 
McGraw-Hill Education. Kindle Edition.


Here is a quote from Lin & Larry Pardey

"Figure 1 shows how generally to hold a boat hove-to in those storm-generated 
seas. Your boat may require different sail or helm adjustments from the four 
illustrated. The most important factor is to make sure your boat is stopped and 
drifting down-wind behind its slick. If you find you are forereaching, try 
tying the tiller more to leeward."





-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Aug 14, 2015, at 9:37 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 08:37:04 -0500
> From: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Heaving-to - sail ratios for higher winds
> Message-ID: <743d28ab-da79-476c-941c-684ced458...@postaudio.net 
> <mailto:743d28ab-da79-476c-941c-684ced458...@postaudio.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Paul ? from Sail Online:
> 
>> When a sailboat is set in a heave to position, she slows down considerably 
>> and keeps moving forward at about 1 to 2 kts, but with a significant amount 
>> of drift. The drift creates some turbulence on the water, and that 
>> disturbance decreases significantly the sea aggressiveness.
> 
> This was always my understanding, and has been my experience on my 30mkI and 
> my LF38.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Aug 14, 2015, at 7:52 AM, PME via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> As I understand it, if your trying to heave to and your moving forward then 
>> your either in a current or actually forereaching.   
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
> 

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Re: Stus-List Heaving-to - sail ratios for higher winds

[PME via CnC-List]

As I understand it, if your trying to heave to and your moving forward then 
your either in a current or actually forereaching.   



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Aug 14, 2015, at 12:32 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> My understanding is that when hove to, the boat should be going forward. 

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Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade-> SPX-5 with Seatalk and SeatalkNG

[PME via CnC-List]

Mike,

I think I read the same Ray documentation which seemed to show that one could 
connect Seatalk and SeatalkNG devices
via the SPX-5 controller.   I installed my i40 speed system with Seatalk 
connector wired to the Seatalk ports on the SPX-5.   It powers the i40 system,
and the speed display works fine.

I am planning on connecting the SPX-5 to my Raymarine e7d via SeatalkNG, and I 
was hoping the speed data would
be sent to the e7d too.  But it sounds like this does not work?   Bummer!   I 
guess I will need to use a Seatalk to SeatalknNG converter.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Aug 13, 2015, at 4:05 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2015 12:30:38 -0400
> From: Michael Brown mailto:m...@tkg.ca>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electronics upgrade
> Message-ID: <668580532-6...@mail.tkg.ca >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> When I installed a new SPX/5 Autohelm, i70 display, and converter I found the 
> Raymarine
> documentation a bit disjointed, lacking in a correct example of what I was 
> doing, and in
> one case was wrong in overview. They showed the Seatalk and SeatalkNG buses 
> being
> connected to the SPX/5, which you can do, but it does not do any conversion 
> or anything
> useful. I would normally only make a connection if there was some benefit to 
> it. So ask
> away if you have any questions.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement

[PME via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I recently installed a rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30 in a LF38.  Replacing the two 
transmission mounts should be 
easier with the transmission and v-drive mounted for leverage.  With the mount 
nuts free, you should be able to pry 
up the end of the v-drive and block it from underneath or you could lift the 
v-drive up using a block and tackle.   


See some of my installation photos at the end of the this page: 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/EngineWork 


I suggest getting new stainless bolts, washers, and nylon locknuts.  Installing 
the mounting nuts and washers
is the real challenge.   If you drop a nut or washer, it is lost, so get a few 
extra just incase.   I used masking tape to 
hold the nut and washer on a box wrench which I then inserted into the tiny 
access holes of the support struts.   
With this arrangement, was able to rather easily bolt the mounts in place.  I 
tied a string on the box wrench, so 
if I dropped the wrench, it was quickly fished out.

As I said it would be easier to do with the v-drive for leverage, but you could 
likely lift it with a 2x4 and block it. 
I basically walked the engine in place this way.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Aug 12, 2015, at 1:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2015 20:29:29 -0700
> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar engine mounts replacement
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of
> the logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc.
> 
> I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's
> the perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two
> (back end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical
> inspection (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were
> delaminating. Plus Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If
> this goes easily maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two.
> 
> I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online
> reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too -
> a lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair
> amount now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission
> premature wear.
> 
> 
> Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be
> interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even
> though your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you
> mean by the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm
> ignorant of what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm
> expecting the existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts
> look a bit rusted on.
> 
> I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would
> place that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and
> the hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack
> in. I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine
> until its raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at
> that point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could
> upload.
> 
> Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long
> it will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew
> not to break in the summer months, but I guess not!
> 
> -Patrick
> S/V Violet Hour, LF38
> Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina

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Re: Stus-List Regulator for force10 grill

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

As already mentioned,  Kuuma has purchased Force 10.  A few years back, I sent 
an email to Kuuma about buying replacement rail mount parts for my gas grill.  
They quickly replied saying that they have shipped out a new rail mount kit 
free of charge.  I offered to pay for shipping, but they replied saying that I 
did not have to pay for shipping.Great service!

It does not hurt to send them an email (sa...@kuumaproducts.com 
). 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Aug 6, 2015, at 11:41 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 7:28 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> I need to replace the reg on an old force 10 grill.  Model HA-011.  Only
>> thing I've found similar is on a Dickinson @ defender.  Local hardware
>> store has nothing. Any other suggestions?
>> 
>> Thx
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>> 
>> 
>> 

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Stus-List Landfall Upgrades

[PME via CnC-List]

It is nice to hear about LF38 update  of others.  Congratulations.

 I am glad to hear of someone using a SPX-5 autopilot on a Landfall 38.I 
installed a SPX-5 on a C&C 29-1 and after 2.5 years it started having problems. 
  I removed it, send to Raymarine for out of warrantee repair, then sold my C&C 
29.   Raymarine replaced components in the course computer and upgraded the 
firmware at no charge.  Kudos to them for great service!   At the time I was 
deciding between a B&G or Raymarine chart plotter for the Landfall 38.  I 
happily purchased a Raymarine e7D, Raymarine fish finder depth transducer, and 
a Raymarine combination speed/temp/log transducer.I installed the SPX-5 
wheel autopilot on the Landfall 38 and I feel it works just as well as it did 
on the 29 (maybe even better since the 29 was so tender). Installing a 
Raymarine Radar is a future plan.



-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
svJohannaRose.blogspot.com
Carrabelle, FL

> On Jul 29, 2015, at 6:28 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2015 15:16:52 -0400
> From: ssjohn...@aol.com 
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Upgrades!
> Message-ID: <14edb3ef424-44c-1d...@webprd-a27.mail.aol.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> Landfall 38 update...bigtime!
> 
> 
> Alegria came to me (formerly Lanakai, Fugawi out of Grand Traverse Bay, MI) 
> in 2006 with older but working systems...SH VHF, ST4000 Auto, Furuno 16xx 
> Radar, Garmin GPS, Alpine Stereo.  It hadn't been used in a couple of years 
> and had been kept inside.  The Prior Owners had done a quality job in taking 
> care of her.  I had previously upgraded the Autopilot to the XPS-5 SmartPilot 
> and was using a Garmin 478 for GPS and Charts.
> 
> 
> Upgrades this year:
> Replaced wet core under Pedestal and Rudder post.
> Replaced Pedestal with Edson Vision Series...so I could have...
> Raymarine a97 9" display w/remote at the helm and
> Standard Horizion Matrix 2200 VHF with AIS and Remote MIC
> Raymarine Color Hi Def Radar
> Raymarine Fishfinder transducer (B60) in bow
> Raymarine Masthead instruments
> and Fusion AV750 stereo with Sirius/XM
> 
> 
> This was a BIG project for me...and I could not have completed it without 
> Fred Street's very capable assistance.  When I was overwhelmed, he just took 
> over.  He plugged it in and everything worked! It was magicical.  I highly 
> recommend his services.
> 
> 
> Pics available upon request.  Just in case anybody is interested...I do have 
> a bunch of leftover parts that I would be very pleased to part with for a 
> modest contribution to offset this year's expenses. Feel free to contact me 
> off line if you are interested...
> 
> 
> I appreciate this list lotsI may not contribute much but read it daily.  
> Thanks again to Stu who deserves all of our support!
> Now I just want to sail her.
> 
> 
> Spencer Johnson
> 1984 Landfall 38 # 165 ALEGRIA
> Summers in Racine, WI
> Home in Mount Prospect, IL
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
>   
> >
> 
> --

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Stus-List Landfall 38 restoration project

[PME via CnC-List]

Speaking of Fools, I just started documenting all of the little and big 
projects that I have done over the last 16 months since purchasing my “LF38 
fixer upper”.  For 14 months, the boat was hauled out, and I drove over an hour 
each way to the marina, nearly every weekend, working on some project.  During 
the week days, I spent too much time planning, preparing, and just plan 
thinking about boat projects.   She is now in her slip, and I am enjoying the 
sailing, but for the longest time I wondered if we were ever going to get to to 
this point.

I am using a blog for the online documentation.  I started it a few weeks ago, 
back dating the entries of various projects.  It is still incomplete, a bit 
green, and I’m sure spotted with grammatical errors.  

The easiest way to navigate the site is to use the “Projects” link under Pages 
on the right side of the main page.

   http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com 
svJohannaRose.blogspot.com


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jul 29, 2015, at 12:15 PM, PME  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yea, there’s likely some FOOL thinking what a great deal and what a fun 
> project that would be to fix her up.   And before we know it,  he/she will be 
> posting on the list….
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 29, 2015, at 10:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2015 10:53:43 -0400
>> From: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?
>> Message-ID: <0edac2a6-516e-4092-a26a-8ed592a5a...@icloud.com 
>> >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>> 
>> It's pretty sad when you can buy a 38-foot C&C for less money than we pay 
>> for a slip rental for one year!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>>> ] On Behalf Of Nate Flesness via 
>>> CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2015 9:08 AM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> Cc: Nate Flesness
>>> Subject: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?
>>> 
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAILBOAT-C-amp-C-LANDFALL-38-039-/131565358722?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> it says soft deck spot, but if thats all, yikes...
>>> 
>>> Nate
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?

[PME via CnC-List]

Yea, there’s likely some FOOL thinking what a great deal and what a fun project 
that would be to fix her up.   And before we know it,  he/she will be posting 
on the list….


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jul 29, 2015, at 10:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2015 10:53:43 -0400
> From: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?
> Message-ID: <0edac2a6-516e-4092-a26a-8ed592a5a...@icloud.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> It's pretty sad when you can buy a 38-foot C&C for less money than we pay for 
> a slip rental for one year!
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of Nate Flesness via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 2015 9:08 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Nate Flesness
>> Subject: Stus-List landfall 38 for $4k?
>> 
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAILBOAT-C-amp-C-LANDFALL-38-039-/131565358722?&_trksid=p2056016.m2518.l4276
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> it says soft deck spot, but if thats all, yikes...
>> 
>> Nate
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
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>> 

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Re: Stus-List Best Engine? -> hull speed and power required

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

There is a nice web calculator for calculating hull speed, a displacement 
corrected hull speed (Gerr), and horsepower dependence on speed.

It shows for the LF38, a Gerr hull speed of 7.22 Knots and required 35.5 HP to 
reach 100% of max hull speed.   It is interesting to note that 90% of hull 
speed is expected to be achieved with under 24 HP.


http://www.psychosnail.com/boatspeedcalculator.aspx 






-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jul 14, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> HI Brian
> 
> Our 34 has the Yanmar 3GM with Martec folding prop.  Clean bottom cruising
> is 5.5, max is about 6.  As I recall, your max speed is supposed to be
> about
> 80% of theoretical hull speed with throttle wide open??  Another variable
> is
> the calibration of the knotometer and if using the GPS the impact of
> current
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> 

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Re: Stus-List Chartplotter choice when you want to simply add AIS to the display?

[PME via CnC-List]

I too have the GX2150 VHF w/ AIS.  I have the Standard Horizon remote mic 
mounted by the helm, the mic also has an AIS display.  I recently installed a 
Raymarine e7d and will soon be connecting the GX2150 to it for AIS & DSC 
position overlays.

You can now get the GX2200 VHF w/ AIS+GPS for under $300(plus an additional $40 
rebate until august).   At these prices one would be foolish to purchase a 
separate AIS receiver and then deal with antenna connections.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jun 25, 2015, at 11:07 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Nate
> 
> Some of the newer Std Horizon VHF have AIS receivers and can be hooked to 
> chartplotter.
> 
> We have Standard Horizon Matrix AIS+ VHF model GX2150 and a Garmin GPSMAP740. 
>  AIS is available on the 740 using the VHF receiver
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax

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Re: Stus-List landfall 39 rudder bearing

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

On a LF38, the rudder basically hangs from the rudder nut-collar.  The bearing 
is a thrush bearing which sandwiches between nut-collar and the bolted-in base 
plate.There is only one bearing.

I made a new thrush bearing from PTFE-Filled Delrin Acetal Resin Sheet 
(McMaster-Carr item #8578K411 $19).   I used the old one as a template, cut it 
out using a jigsaw, and rounded it off with a sander.  Since the flat surface 
is the bearing surface, a good cut edge is cosmetic only.  Here is a photo 
before sanding: 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/16983084193/in/album-72157652333214269/ 


But you really want to see Wally's page on the rudder thrust bearing 
replacement for details: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/replace.htm

I should say that the "night and day" improvement to the rudder steering came 
from dropping the rudder and cleaning out the dry old crusted grease and 
re-greasing the shaft(I use superlube).  Before, the rudder would chatter when 
quickly turned, now it glides like a Canadian hockey player on ice.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jun 22, 2015, at 2:45 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2015 11:31:46 -0500
> From: mailto:lklarchite...@gmail.com>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List landfall 39 rudder bearing
> Message-ID: <8545ADA556E5484694F5AF9ABCB215BC@finesse>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Listers,
> 
> 
> 
> Might anyone know the procedure for replacing and how I might locate the 
> proper bearing and if there is more than one?
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> 
> 
> Lloyd Lippe
> 
> Finesse
> 
> Landfall 39
> 
> 
> 
> formerly Rockport, Texas
> 
> now Key West (for awhile)
> 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Troubles > Injector Rebuild

[PME via CnC-List]

I found that some Yanmar parts are readily available at Tractor Supply stores.  
For example,  using the Yanmar part number (724770-53100) in the Hoye Tractor 
search field I found the following 3QM30 injectors cross listed to IA-4770 for 
$118. See http://www.hoyetractor.com/PROD/search/IA-4770.htm 


I saved over $600 buying 3 new injector pre-combustion chambers. Mastry Yanmar 
wanted nearly $300 per cylinder, I got them for about $60 per cylinder at Hoye.

I did not buy new injectors, I brought my injector pump and injectors to a 
Diesel shop.  They rebuilt the pump for about $200, and tested the injectors(no 
charge).  The injectors were fine.   The place I went to was called Shiver 
Diesel Injection just outside of Tallahassee, and since we have a diesel 
injection shop out at no-where-ville, I’m guessing there’s a similar place near 
you.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jun 22, 2015, at 2:45 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2015 12:29:35 -0400
> From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Engine Troubles > Injector Rebuild
> Message-ID: <201506221630.t5mgucr2023...@d03av05.boulder.ibm.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Here's another option:  Instead of paying 125.00 per for rebuild why not 
> buy brand new ones for 132.00 bucks each? 
> 
> See here:  
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yanmar-1GM-2GM-3GM-Injector-NEW-Part-728170-53100-FREE-SHIPPING-/151718415253
>  
> 
> 
> Mine were sticking / cold start was smoky and sometimes laborious. I have 
> shopped for / seen them for less in the past. 
> 
> I can postpone that purchase now.. With a steady diet of Power Kleen and 
> regular once a week use (or more) thanks for Wed nite racing.  It's pretty 
> much cured:  It cold starts in 2-3 secs with the throttle on idle.  (It 
> used to refuse to start on anything less than full throttle / several 
> minutes of cranking) 
> 
> 
> Regards
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ 'Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA

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Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

[PME via CnC-List]

I use Nickel AntiSeize (not the standard Zinc based AntiSeize).

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Jun 22, 2015, at 9:07 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> 2GM20F - I?m about to replace the mixing elbow - got the part.
> There?s a pipe joint between the mixing elbow and the exhaust elbow that
> screws into both parts.
> Do I screw this piece in dry or (more likely) use some sort of sealant?
> If I need sealant - what do you guys suggest?
> I?ve got a tube of high temp silicone left over from installing my garage
> heater, is this stuff OK? If not - what???
> 
> sam :-)
> C&C 26 Liquorice
> Ghost Lake Alberta

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Re: Stus-List A good day

[PME via CnC-List]

May your port never leak again, but if a different ports leaks consider not 
using 5200.  I like 4000UV.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Jun 21, 2015, at 7:48 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> the 5200 that I used to rebed the
> fixed portlights in my Beckson windows is sound with no leaks after 2
> weeks, only time with more will tell how this repair holds up over the long
> run but right now I am happy:

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Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in

[PME via CnC-List]

A quick search for a  documented “True Love” only shows one  LF38 which is a 
1981 hull#105 and list a hailing port of Charleston, SC.  




Coast Guard Vessel Documentation

Data found in current database.
Vessel Name:TRUE LOVE   USCG Doc. No.:  655317
Vessel Service: RECREATIONALIMO Number: *
Trade Indicator:RecreationalCall Sign:  *
Hull Material:  FRP (FIBERGLASS)Hull Number:CCY38105M81H
Ship Builder:   C&C YACHTS INC  Year Built: 1981

Length (ft.):   37.6
Hailing Port:   CHARLESTON SC   Hull Depth (ft.):   5.7
Owner:  Hull Breadth (ft.): 12.2
Gross Tonnage:  13
Net Tonnage:11
Documentation Issuance Date:June 30, 2004   Documentation Expiration Date:  
*
Previous Vessel Names:  No Vessel Name Changes  Previous Vessel Owners: 
FRANCIS X MCGOWAN JR. 
FRANCIS X. MCGOWAN, JR. 
FRANCIS X. MCGOWAN, JR. 
JOHN F CORKERY 



url:   
http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/pls/webpls/cgv_pkg.vessel_id_list?vessel_id_in=655317

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Below is a post from last May on relining Edson brake pads.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL


> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: PME 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake & Relining Brakes
> Date: May 22, 2014 at 1:40:06 PM EDT
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Rob,
> 
> I just removed the Edson brakes and steering cables/chain from my steering 
> system this past Sunday.   And it was near exactly as described by Graham.  
> The hardest part was removing the seized flathead screws.  With a little PB 
> Blaster, some perseverance, and a lot of hammer-twisting on an old hand 
> impact driver (like the one at  http://tinyurl.com/q823uja 
>  ) I was able to get the screws out.   I will 
> surely use never-seize putting the screws back in.  This little impact driver 
> has saved me on several occasions.
> 
> The removal of the brakes took just a few minutes at this point.  To add to 
> Graham's comments, there is a special-sized washer on the brake shaft toward 
> the knob side of the last brake pad.  This washer is critical in making the 
> brakes work.   It turns out this washer was missing on my brake system, and 
> that my brake pads are fine.  Try not to lose this washer or be very cautious 
> when installing a replacement.  I called Edson trying to buy the little 
> washer, but they insisted on sending a few washers out to me for free.  As 
> many have suggested, stuff rags down the pedestal, but I plan to tie dental 
> floss on this bugger to aid in its installation too. 
> 
> As for brake replacements, the kits go for about $77 online(Defender).  I 
> have read online of folks relining these pads.   Edson even sells a relining 
> kit but it costs about the same ($80 Jamestown Distributers). 
> 
> Following the success of other, I planned on relining the pads myself.  As it 
> looks I will only need the washer, but if the pads do need replacing in the 
> future I surely reline them myself.  It Looks like fun and for less than $10 
> one could reline several sets(help out a buddy).   For completeness I 
> included material list and Edson's instructions below.  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Materials
>   - McMaster-Carr  brake liner metal-free  3/16"T   1-1/4"W   
> 6175K812$3.91/ft
>   http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod 
> 
>   - Loctite Black Max Adhesive (or epoxy)
> 
> Brake Lining Replacement Instructions (from Edson EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF)
>   1. Remove old brake pads. Clean legs with solvent.
>   2. Bond new pads to brake legs with generous amounts of
>   supplied adhesive or two-part epoxy.
>   3. Clamp brake legs around a pipe approximately 1 1/2" in
>   diameter while the adhesive cures so that the new pads conform
>   to the shape of the legs.
>   4. After adhesive has cured, trim brake pads along edges of
>   brake leges with a band saw or hack saw.
>   5. Reinstall brake components as described inside and check
>   operation before installing cotter pin.
>   6. If brake does not clamp properly, check that washer has been
>   installed between shaft shoulder and A743 starboard brake leg.
> 
> 
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Stus-List AirBnB boat

[PME via CnC-List]

Heard of AirBnB yet?  Here is a creative way to pay for the slip fees:  

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/3815654?checkin=06%2F01%2F2015&checkout=06%2F04%2F2015&s=K66J

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List bedding of windows-> butyl and more

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

I was about to write that McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of butyl tape 
at great prices, but it appears they don’t offer it any more.  I am usually a 
big fan of McMaster-Carr as they usually have most anything, in great quality, 
and reasonable priced.   For example, the little dremel sanding drums cost $3 
for a bag of 25.  I used to pay twice that for just a handful at a box store.

My other go to supplier is Grainger.  They have two nice choices for butyl tape:

[1] 2”W, 1/8”T, 30’L black butyl tape ($16)  
http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Tape-4PDE9?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4PDE9_AS01?$smthumb$
 


[2] 3:W, 1/16”T, 20’L grey butyl tape ($24) 
http://www.grainger.com/product/PERMATITE-Butyl-Tape-2EJR3?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2EJR3_AS01?$smthumb$
 






-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On May 26, 2015, at 9:40 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 26 May 2015 16:25:03 -0700
> From: Rick Rohwer mailto:rickroh...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List bedding of windows
> Message-ID: <3e283131-0a00-4645-a097-8b856296e...@gmail.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> After using Butyl tape for the first time on my dodger window install, I 
> follow the recommendation of so many folks I met in Canada last summer and 
> would encourage you to try this product for hatches windows or any of the 
> deck sealant issue you might have.  The savings in clean up alone is immense 
> and I think it makes for a much more dependable seal.  As for the life of the 
> product, I am only onto it about 2 weeks, but everyone I met last summer were 
> really hyped up about it.  Marine stores have it (West Marine will order it), 
> but ebay has various colors and thicknesses for mucho cheaper.  I made quite 
> an investment in my 20 foot roll,  
> 
> Rick Rohwer
> C&C 37+ Paikea
> Poulsbo, WA  (until manana and then only the wind and God knows for sure) 

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Re: Stus-List Are original LF38 thru hulls in contact with coring?

[PME via CnC-List]

Patrick,

I recently replaced 8 thru-hulls, 8 seacocks, and 2 transducers on my LF38.  
Yes, Wally’s site is a great resource.   I reamed back the coring and filled 
with thickened epoxy.   While the hull is cored with balsa, the region where 
the thru-hulls are is cored with marine plywood.  Thankfully, removing the old 
thru-hulls showed dry coring, so I guess they were originally sealed well.  I 
found two thru-hulls with threads red and very pitted, and they were likely 
close to failing. Removing the thru-hulls are easy with the correct tool, 
so I suggest that you at least check all of them.But with wet decaying 
backing plates, I would not wait...

I have not gotten around to write anything up yet, but I do have a bunch of 
photos tossed online:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/dreuge/sets/72157652746226231


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On May 20, 2015, at 2:56 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 20 May 2015 11:18:36 -0700
> From: Patrick Davin mailto:jda...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Are original LF38 thru hulls in contact with
>   coring?
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> My first haul out is coming up in 3 weeks, just for a few days to do some
> small tasks like unsticking a seized seacock and maybe installing a new
> speed transducer (old Datamarine one is somewhat broken).
> 
> I've read Wally's site cover to cover and know he redid his thru hulls
> reaming out some core and filling with epoxy (and even glassing over). But
> were all model years constructed without that done or did later C&Cs start
> sealing their thru hulls better? It's surprising to me that they wouldn't
> have protected the core out of the factory.
> 
> Do I need to inspect all thru hulls or only prior-owner installed ones? I
> might postpone this till the fall since it'll be a big job, just wondering
> if it's worth pulling one now (even that I don't expect to be easy).
> 
> If all cored C&Cs were installed with coring abutting the thruhull, I'm
> surprised it doesn't sound like everyone has redone them (it looks like
> only 2 or 3 people have asked about it on the list - although more may have
> done it). Or is the concern overdone? From the standpoint of "don't mess
> with it if it ain't broke" maybe it's better to just do nothing. Except
> that the plywood backing plates are wet/decayed, so eventually I'll need to
> at least do something with those (which may or may not involve replacing
> the seacock and thruhull too).
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 LF38 "Violet Hour"
> Seattle, WA

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Re: Stus-List Towing, Insurance, etc.

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Here is my understanding of the difference between SeaTow and TowBoatUS.   
SeaTow operators derive their income from selling memberships and do not 
receive extra income from towing a SeaTow member.   TowBoatUS operators do not 
receive any income from membership, the only receive a contracted amount from 
the company based on towing a member.   Of course, both make good money towing 
non-members.   

Now I don’t know if it is true, but I have heard that the difference has lead 
to longer waiting times for SeaTow members.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA

[PME via CnC-List]

Or end up locally at :Mass Marine Parts (http://www.massmarineparts.com 
).  They have a few C&C’s parted out (C&C 29 & 
C&C 34 are listed on their front page).   Search on “C&C” to get a full listing.






-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On May 14, 2015, at 10:30 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 14 May 2015 09:57:05 -0400
> From: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Salvage landfall 38 on ebay, Boston MA
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> That boat has been on yachtsalvage for some time.  The buyer is looking at
> 4-5000 for a rudder, countless hours of fiberglass work and who -knows-
> what.  It would not surprise me if it is parted out on craigslist in a few
> weeks.

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Re: Stus-List Dauphin island video

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,


Thanks for sharing the video.  




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On May 12, 2015, at 9:30 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 11 May 2015 11:50:32 -0500
> From: Tracy Hirsh mailto:tracyh1...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Did you see the Dauphin island race disaster?
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> We had our C&C out on the bay for DI Race. We had already finished the race
> and were headed back to Fairhope, just south of Middle Bay Light, when the
> storm hit. It was a tremendous. It struck quickly and winds were sustained
> 36-58+ knots for about 30 minutes. Naturally we had all our sails up and
> getting them down was a challenge but we did with minimal damage. I felt
> very confident that the boat would hold up just fine to the conditions, it
> was my crew I was most worried about! All came through just fine.
> 
> Here is a video that one of the participants put together if anyone is
> interested.
> 
> 57th Annual Dauphin Island Race
>  >
> 
> Tracy Hirsh
> Ogopogo
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Fairhope AL

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Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

>From what I read, Mermaid is in Fort Meyers, FL (gulf coast side) and I read 
>one post claiming the units are partially made in China.  But to be honest, I 
>have not verified that.  Flagship Marine is in Stuart FL (atlantic coast side) 
>and their units are made in the USA.  Have a quick look at their website, it 
>is pretty detailed and full of useful tidbits.


Thanks again for your input.

Paul


> On Apr 29, 2015, at 4:35 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> Paul,
> 
> I think Flagship and Mermaid may be the same.  You should research that.
> 
> On the advice of another 35-1 owner, I installed a Mermaid in 1999.  He had 
> installed one in his 35-1.  I basically copied his installation.  A couple 
> years after I installed it, my friend chunked his Mermaid and replaced it 
> with a CruiseAir.
> 
> The problem with my Mermaid was their high pressure switch.  It was a 
> mechanical switch.  That is, high pressure pushed out a pin which then pushed 
> a slide which activated an electrical switch.  This design is very unreliable.
> 
> I didn't appreciate that you needed to keep all those sliding parts 
> lubricated.  One day some "stuff" got sucked up into the inlet thru hull and 
> plugged the water flow.  The high pressure trip activated but the slide 
> didn't move.  Therefore the high pressure switch never tripped.  The unit 
> blew all the refrigerant out through the Shrader valve.  I was not on the 
> boat at the time.
> 
> Mermaid had a deal where for a set price, they sent you a box and shipping 
> label.  You pulled your unit, dropped it into the box and shipped it to them 
> for refurb.  I did that.  They returned it to "factory specs" but it never 
> seems to work as well as original.  I made sure I kept the HP slide 
> lubricated.  It later developed a leak.  My refrigeration repair buddy fixed 
> it.  It worked a while and then developed another problem.  I pulled it and 
> sold it on eBay.
> 
> My "aha" moment happened when a friend remarked why do you think Mermaid 
> makes it so easy to send the units back to them?
> 
> I replaced it with a CruiseAir.  No problems since 2006.
> 
> Also, the Mermaid used a cheap Teel water pump.  I could get these at 
> Grainger for about $50.  I replaced it twice.  I kept a spare on the boat.
> 
> The cruiseAir uses a Dometic (March) pump that has been problem free.  I 
> don't keep a spare for it but I do have a way to connect dock water to the 
> unit in case it fails.
> 
> The CruiseAir uses an electrical high pressure switch.  It has tripped 
> several times due to cooling water flow blockage.  I trust it.
> 
> I would explore how the high pressure switch is designed.  If it is 
> mechanical, make sure it is lubricated and operated without resistance.
> 
> FWIW, a friend here just installed a Flagship in his Island Packet.
> 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I wanted to give an update on what I have decided to order.   First off, it 
turns out that installation location eliminates several of the AC units from 
consideration. On my LF38, this location is a cabinet between the starboard 
settee and the head(similar to were several LF38 owners have units).  This 
location has plenty of depth and height, but limited width. Taken this into 
account, these were the units I found that met these considerations:

[1] Dometic/Cruisair vector-turbo/stowaway-turbo
[2] Mermaid M16
[3] Flagship FM16R

While I liked the Dometic/Cruisair unit, it’s base price is $1k more than the 
others and for the DYI person, there is a reduction to the warranty for not 
having the unit dealer installed(2yrs -> 1yr).  With regards to Mermaid, I have 
found that there are those who love it and those who hate it.  I remembered 
that Defender sold these units, and so I sent them an email asking if they can 
still obtain Mermaid products.  Here is Defender’s reply, ”Unfortunately 
Defender is no longer selling Mermaid AC units. Due to some customer service 
issues we had, we did server ties with that particular company."  I went to the 
Mermaid website which lists an internet price, but when I called for more 
information, I was told that the price increased  back in February and that 
their "IT guy” has not gotten around to update the website.  Adding all this 
up, I feel I would be asking for trouble going with Mermaid.   

The good news is that from the get go, I have been impressed with Flagship 
Marine.  They have been very responsive to inquires and accommodating to my 
needs, and they have factory direct pricing and a plethora of information on 
their website.   So I have decided to go with the Flagship FM16R w/ heat 
option, 115V, top discharge, with remote enclosure option to further reduce the 
width.The only hard thing to swallow is the nearly $250 for FL taxes and 
shipping.  The specs are listed below.  

• Flagship Marine   FM16R w/ heat & digital thermostat
• load:  11.3A/18.1A  cool/heat
• 16,500 BTU/hr
• size: 21.5x14.6x13.5,  77lbs
• warranty: 5yr/1yr  parts/labor
• refrigerant: NU22
• made in the USA
• base price: $1,709+$78(remote option)
• website: http://www.flagshipmarine.com/selfcontained.html 
 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

[PME via CnC-List]

Robert,

I sounds like your set up is similar to what existed.   Except I have a large 
duct going to the v-berth which splits in the back of a closed off area of the 
hanging locker with one connection going to a small round vent in the v-birth 
and the other going to a much larger rectangular vent for the main salon.  I 
don’t have any duct going to the aft cabin which eventually I would like to 
rectify.My thruhull, seacock, and strainer are located under the galley 
sink.Do you have a scoop on your intake?

My quick measurements indicate that the 16,00BTU/hr units would fit, but taking 
note of your setup, I will carefully measure the available space again this 
weekend.


Thanks for your input.

Paul


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Apr 23, 2015, at 11:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 10:55:38 -0400
> From: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
> To: PME mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38
> Message-ID: <09132ee6-3766-49a3-8d54-e48e8ba28...@icloud.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have a Marine Air system on my Landfall 38--it is 12,500 Btu unit and is is 
> located in a cabinet beneath a set of drawers on the starboard side just 
> forward of the head.  I selected the unit because it was the best fit in the 
> space I had available.  I did the installation myself and I have ducting 
> running into the v-berth and the aft cabin as well as in the main salon.  I 
> have found that if you use plenty of well distribued vents and small fans to 
> help move the air around, 12,500 Btu's is plenty.  16,000 Btu would be better 
> (particularly in Florida) but the 12,500 Btu unit served me well as a 
> liveaboard in Maryland.  The unit has worked flawlessly for about 12 years.  
> The biggest problem I have had have been with jellyfish being sucked up in to 
> the inlet water filter during the summer.

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Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

[PME via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Thanks for  recommendation.   I just noticed that Cruisar is made by Dometic 
who also makes units under the Marine Air and the Dometic names.It looks 
like the Marine Air Vector Turbo is the same as the Crusair Stowaway Turbo.   
They look very interesting but I have not been able to find prices yet online.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL








> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 23, 2015, at 11:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 09:21:17 -0500
>> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
>> To: PME mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>, CnClist 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38
>> Message-ID:
>>  > >
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Cruisair.  Crusair. Crusair.
>> 
>> Definitely not a Mermaid.  I had one on Touche'.  Had to send it back to
>> Mermaid for rebuild twice in 7 years.
>> 
>> I now have a Crusair Stowaway Turbo 16000 BTU.  Much better unit.  Been
>> running without a hiccup since 2006.
>> 
>> My buddy here in south Louisiana services and installs marine air
>> conditioners.  He absolutely believes the Crusair is the best.  I agree
>> with him.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
> 

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 111, Issue 45

[PME via CnC-List]

Thanks for  recommendation.   I just noticed that Cruisar is made by Dometic 
who also makes units under the Marine Air and the Dometic names.It looks 
like the Marine Air Vector Turbo is the same as the Crusair Stowaway Turbo.   
They look very interesting but I have not been able to find prices yet online.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Apr 23, 2015, at 11:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2015 09:21:17 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: PME mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>, CnClist 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Cruisair.  Crusair. Crusair.
> 
> Definitely not a Mermaid.  I had one on Touche'.  Had to send it back to
> Mermaid for rebuild twice in 7 years.
> 
> I now have a Crusair Stowaway Turbo 16000 BTU.  Much better unit.  Been
> running without a hiccup since 2006.
> 
> My buddy here in south Louisiana services and installs marine air
> conditioners.  He absolutely believes the Crusair is the best.  I agree
> with him.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Marine AC options for LF38

[PME via CnC-List]

Dear Listers,

I am looking to install an air conditioner unit in my LF38.   It turns out that 
my boat had a unit as the output ducts and  return vent grill are still in 
place.  I did not feel the need to install one on my old 29mk1, and so I have 
no experience on which vendors/units are reliable.   I have search the web for 
reviews, and found a smidgen of positive and negative reviews for all the top 
vendors.  Below is a list of what I have narrowed down so far.   The prices are 
all within a few $100 of each other, but I have little idea on the difference 
in the qualities.   On the other hand, the warranties vary from 1-5 yrs

I would greatly appreciate any input or advise regarding which units to 
consider or which units to avoid.


Domestic Marine Air EnviroComfort 16,000BTU
Webasto FCF 16,000BTU
MarinAire   Integra MSBA16K2 16,00BTU
Flagship Marine   FM16R 16,500BTU
Mermaid M16 16,500BTU


yours very truly,

Paul Eugenio

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Window Replacement

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

The procedure outlined by Don Casey in a Sail magazine is excellent. 

To add to Casey’s article, I traced the old port and cut the material slightly 
larger with a sabersaw.   I then sanded
the edges down to final size with an orbital sander.  This worked easily and 
produced nice results.

 I also found great prices for acrylic/lexan at eStreet Plastic. I used 3M VHB 
tape and Dow 795 both which I purchased 
from McMaster-Carr, and I sprayed the under-side, unmasked area with Krylon 
Fusion.

Here is a link to the article.  
http://www.sailmagazine.com/boatworks/replacing-fixed-portlights 




On 2015-04-20 7:24 PM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
> Given the amount of water dripping onto my galley table, re-caulking 
> isn't going to do it for long.
> 
> Take your windows out, take them to any place that deals with acrylic 
> and have them duplicate them...if you break your windows make a template
> out of 1/4 plywood to take in.
> 
> Let me know if you come up with a good glue solution...I'm looking to 
> do mine again, as I apparently didn't use enough glue or clamping and
> my windows have sprung out a bit...enabling water to get in...
> 
> Cheers,
>   Jeff
>C&C30 Mk 1
>Muir Caileag
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List List stepping mast 38 Landfall

[PME via CnC-List]

Rob:

The idea was to coat the bottom of outer and inner mast shell for added 
corrosion protection, not to bond or pot the mast into the step.  It was 
explained to me that “everyone” does it, but from the responses so far, it 
seems not to be true.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Mar 2, 2015, at 3:09 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 02 Mar 2015 15:06:12 -0400
> From: robert mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Stus-List List stepping mast 38 Landfall
> Message-ID: <54f4b4a4.2090...@eastlink.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Paul:
> 
> Quite honestly, I have never seen a mast bonded to the mast step, 
> whether 'keel stepped' or 'deck stepped'.  If the mast bottom is 
> 'bonded', what happens to the water that undoubtedly makes its way down 
> the inside of the mast?
> 
> I'm with Ed on this one.why would you even consider applying an 
> 'adhesive' to the bottom of the mast?  I have stepped masts, my own and 
> others, and have never seen the need to bond the bottom of the mast.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 1984
> Halifax, N.S.

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Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question

[PME via CnC-List]

> I've read that it's a "best practice" to run the charging to the biggest 
> bank, but can't find any explanation as to why. 

Hi Edd, 

Here is my understanding.  The ACR will combine a second battery while there is 
a voltage present on the first battery.  The alternator's voltage regulator  
will shut off the charging when the first battery is full.  The second battery 
may still need some charging.   Therefore it is better to have the alternator 
charge  the battery which is being drained the most, i.e. the house battery.

On the same note, most starters draw about 150Amps for less than 10 seconds.  
This amounts to 150A*10s*1hr/3600s = 0.4 A*hr which  should be restored within 
a minute of charging.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Mar 2, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2015 13:21:04 -0500
> From: Edd Schillay mailto:e...@schillay.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Alternator Output Question
> Message-ID: <5a4d6fa4-5e07-41c8-8468-ab498e809...@schillay.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Listers,
> 
> As you know, I'm planning a rewire to a house and starting battery 
> configuration. 
> 
> On the C&C 37+, I have access to three sides of the engine -- the only side 
> without access is the side with the starter and the alternator. 
> 
> From the diagrams I can find, the alternator output is connected to the 
> starter, which then runs back to the batteries. I understand the best 
> practice is to disconnect that wire (as well as the Orange one) and run a new 
> wire from the alternator output to the house bank. 
> 
> This would mean removing, rewiring, and reattaching the alternator, which is 
> a little out of my comfort zone given the access. 
> 
> I recently read on a forum that if you have an ACR instead of an Echo charger 
> (planning to have an ACR), then you can leave the setup as is. The charge 
> from the alternator would go to the starting battery and then, through the 
> ACR, charge the house bank. 
> 
> The ACR auto senses from each side and works both ways. 
> 
> My starter battery and house bank will be the same chemical make-up (Trojan 
> flooded). 
> 
> I've read that it's a "best practice" to run the charging to the biggest 
> bank, but can't find any explanation as to why. 
> 
> So, the question is, with the ACR, can I leave the alternator output as is or 
> do I really need to do some "engine surgery" to run a new cable? And if the 
> latter, why can't the system work the way that the ACR advertises? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd

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Stus-List stepping mast 38 Landfall

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,


I will be stepping my mast within the next week or two.  One of the folks at my 
marina asked if I was going to slather the bottom of the mast with Dolfinite.  
I have never heard of this stuff before.   I looked into it and it looks 
reasonable.  What do other apply or use when stepping their mast?   I already 
have the silver dollar I found under the mast back in place


Thanks for any insight. 



-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL



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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM? Battery

[PME via CnC-List]

Doug,

So far I have an AGM start battery and a group 29 wet cell along the port 
engine side.  I purchased the boat with only one battery and no engine 
installed.   I did get the old engine in pieces (aka a basket case) which I 
rebuilt and just installed.  I am still trying to figure out where most things 
went or should go.   


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Feb 25, 2015, at 7:31 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 16:31:16 -0800 (PST)
> From: svpegasu...@gmail.com <mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> 
> mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded,  Sealed or AGM? Battery
>   orientation
> Message-ID: <000f4242.27231960285cb...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:000f4242.27231960285cb...@gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>Paul, where are your batteries located? I currently have 2 group 24 
> starting batteries alongside the port side of the engine. 2 T105's in the 
> little cubby below the power panels, And a 4D under the starboard quarter 
> berth. The last one I am goint to move to under the port quarter berth. Plan 
> on converting the starboard q-berth to a nav station.?
> DougPegasus1979 LF38?
> T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.
> 
> 
> -- Original message--From: PME via CnC-List Date: Wed, Feb 25, 2015 
> 14:53To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>;Ken 
> Heaton;Subject:Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM? Battery 
> orientationKen,
> Thanks for the link. Great read as most of Maine Sail?s articles are. ?I am 
> rearranging the batteries in my engine compartment, and I did not think much 
> about the wet cell battery orientation: port-starboard or stern-bow. ? As 
> Maine Sail shows, wet cell batteries should be aligned port-starboard on 
> sailboats.
> While on my 29 I had all batteries aligned port-starboard, on the LF38 I have 
> one wet cell aligned stern-bow which I will look into correcting. ?
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM? Battery orientation

[PME via CnC-List]

Ken,

Thanks for the link. Great read as most of Maine Sail’s articles are.  I am 
rearranging the batteries in my engine compartment, and I did not think much 
about the wet cell battery orientation: port-starboard or stern-bow.   As Maine 
Sail shows, wet cell batteries should be aligned port-starboard on sailboats.

While on my 29 I had all batteries aligned port-starboard, on the LF38 I have 
one wet cell aligned stern-bow which I will look into correcting.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Feb 25, 2015, at 4:18 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2015 16:35:06 -0400
> From: Ken Heaton mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com>>
> To: Burt Stratton mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com>>
> Cc: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Flooded, Sealed or AGM?
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> "In response to the concern of spilling acid in a wet cell on a
> rail-in-the-water-heel"
> 
> Maine Sail has this one covered too.  Wet cells won't leak (until you have
> already capsized and then you have bigger problems) if the are oriented the
> correct way in the boat.
> 
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/flooded_battery_orientation 
> 
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Hand rail replacement teak or Stainless ?

[PME via CnC-List]

I made new teak handrails for my C&C29mk1 following the instructions in Don 
Casey’s book.  It was fairly easy, took only an afternoon, and the cost was 
about $100 for a pair(mostly cost of teak).  But I needed access to a table 
saw, planar, and router which I do not own.

The handrails (outside and inside) are held together by long machine screws 
with nuts in the inside rails just behind the bungs.  The screw heads are in 
the outside rails behind the bungs. I removed the rails, over drilled, 
wetted, and filled with thickened epoxy.  I used the old rails to transfer the 
bolt holes to the new rails(but one could use the inside rails too), and later 
used the rails to transfer the holes to the deck.  Don Casey has a trick of 
scalloping the handrails to aid in bedding.  It appears to have worked well for 
me, up until I sold my 29 (+4 yrs) I did not have any leaks via the rails.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Feb 16, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2015 10:15:51 -0500
> From: Curtis mailto:cpt.b...@gmail.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com " 
> mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Hand rail replacement teak or Stainless ?
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I have the need after 34 years to replace the outside hand rails on my
> C&C30MK 1
> Has anybody done this? How does it bolt together? It looks like the outside
> and the inside handrails attache together? Can it or should it be replaced
> with Stainless or Teak? It would be great to have some drawings or
> something to go by.
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> *Best regards,*
> 
> 
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
> 
> 
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*
> 
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/ 
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Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Nice discussion.  I am looking to replace my window lenses soon too(likely go 
w/ 1/4” grey Lexan).  I like the idea of using 3M’s VHB tape along with an 
adhesive/sealant.  I have read somewhere (I lost the link) of folks using VHB 
with black 3M 4000/UV with great results.   I have used 4000/UV in the past for 
deck hardware and hatch rebedding, and I like it’s ease of use.Has anyone 
use 4000/UV on lexan/plexi windows?  


I found the link below which provides  a nice description of various marine 
sealants .  It specifically lists 4000/UV as well suited for use with plastics.
http://blog.dankim.com/2009/04/24/marine-sealants/


 
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Feb 16, 2015, at 9:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2015 15:59:28 -0600
> From: Brent Driedger  >
> To: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>,
> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com "
>   mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
> Message-ID: <5fed87b6-6db3-4aa6-af3e-9d24071d3...@highspeedcrow.ca 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Try this link to 3M VHB tapes. 
> 
> http://m.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/mAdhesives/Tapes/Products/?rt=ms&resultsPerPage=10&Ntt=VHB&x=0&y=0
>  
> 
> 
> Brent
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 lift muffler

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the response.   I made some quick measurements again and read in 
detail Wally’s description for his 38 LF.   I ended up ordering a side in/ top 
out vernalift(1500026) along with a 90 deg elbow to attach to the top.   I plan 
to install it just aft and port of the engine,  rerouting the main scupper hose 
on that side to provide extra space.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Feb 12, 2015, at 6:44 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:
> 
> If anyone is interested, including you Paul, I actually have 3 mufflers out 
> in my storage shed that are available. Two were purchased when I installed 
> the current Universal M35 in my 38 mkII back in 2011, and the third is the 
> muffler that was taken out of the boat.
>  
> The old muffler is a Westerbeke Hydrohush horizontal water lock muffler, 2” 
> in 2” out, that was part of the previous exhaust installation.
>  
> Second is a rectangular Vetus waterlift that has interchangable 1 ½ and 2” 
> inlet and outlets , and the outlets can be turned to get anything from 
> horizontal to vertical orientation. There just was not enough room on the 
> port side of my engine for the rectangular footprint.
>  
> Then I bought a Vernalift with top in top out that was quite small – maybe 
> 10” diameter by 8” tall. The footprint is OK, but the muffler had to be 
> installed on the starboard side of the engine to make the hose routing work, 
> so top in was not ideal.
>  
> Ended up with a small Vernalift, side in top out which was just the ticket.
>  
> Wish I had done a little more measuring and planning before I spent the 
> money. One of these days I need to put the mufflers on EBay.
>  
> For now, if anyone is interested drop me a line and I’ll make you a heck of a 
> deal. I can send dimensions and photos.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
> la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of PME via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, February 09, 2015 7:17 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 lift muffler
>  
> Hi,
>  
> I just rebuilt the 3QM30 which I received when I purchased Johanna Rose.  The 
> previous owner had the engine removed and dismantled, and I received the 
> engine as a bare block with boxes of rusty parts.   It was a real basket 
> case.This weekend I managed to shoehorn the engine back in, and now I am 
> at the point where I need to install a lift muffler.   
>  
> It looks like there was one in a small space on the port side of the engine 
> as there is a bulkhead hole the size of an exhaust hose.  But his space looks 
> too small for a vernalift-like waterlock muffler(and a little high relative 
> to the exhaust elbow).I don’t have the original muffler, so I need to 
> purchase a new one.  Has any LF38 owners purchased a replacement muffler?  I 
> would be interested in hearing what you choose and your configuration.  
>  
> I hope to be back afloat soon. It’s been slow working only on weekends...
>  
>  
> Thanks for any insight,
>  
>  
> -
> Paul Eugenio
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL

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Stus-List Landfall 38 lift muffler

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I just rebuilt the 3QM30 which I received when I purchased Johanna Rose.  The 
previous owner had the engine removed and dismantled, and I received the engine 
as a bare block with boxes of rusty parts.   It was a real basket case.This 
weekend I managed to shoehorn the engine back in, and now I am at the point 
where I need to install a lift muffler.   

It looks like there was one in a small space on the port side of the engine as 
there is a bulkhead hole the size of an exhaust hose.  But his space looks too 
small for a vernalift-like waterlock muffler(and a little high relative to the 
exhaust elbow).I don’t have the original muffler, so I need to purchase a 
new one.  Has any LF38 owners purchased a replacement muffler?  I would be 
interested in hearing what you choose and your configuration.  

I hope to be back afloat soon. It’s been slow working only on weekends...


Thanks for any insight,


-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Stus-List Annual rope sale at WestMarine

[PME via CnC-List]

This list is provided by the C&C Photo Album and is free to subscribed members. 
Please help us keep it free by donating today at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/chandlery_2/store.php?crn=226&rn=428&action=show_detail
___
Hi,

I thought I would pass along that WestMarine is having a one day 40% off bulk 
rope sale tomorrow January 23.  This is good both in store and online.  Good 
time to replace a ratty line.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Stus-List 3QM30 injector lines

[PME via CnC-List]

I am looking to replace the injector lines on a Yanmar 3QM30.  The old ones I 
received with my “basket case” of engine parts are in ruff shape, rusty, dirty 
and in one, blocked up.  I know these are high pressure lines, but I am utterly 
shocked by what Yanmar is asking for new ones(see the prices from TOAD Marine 
below).  My guess is that Yanmar no longer makes these.  

inject. pipe 1  121370-59810 $157.70 
inject. pipe 2  121370-59820 $109.96
inject. pipe 3  121370-59830 $820.85 

Now, nobody in their right mind would pay these prices.  Does anyone have a 
good source for these(or equivalent straight) injector lines?   

Thanks for any insight.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed

[PME via CnC-List]

Tom,

That’s hull speed.  Basically, your stern is in the trough of your bow wave.  
See the figures in the link below:


> http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/attachments/boat-design/5014d1137160350-displacement-hull-speed-calculation-rvaluepf.jpg
>  
> 



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

> On Jan 11, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2015 11:54:00 -0500
> From: TOM VINCENT mailto:tvince...@msn.com>>
> To: C&C Forum mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List The stern squats at high speed
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> I was wondering if anyone else has the same problem that I have with my 36' 
> that has the 3 cylinder Yanmar 30 HP. While motoring if I increase the speed 
> the stern starts squatting the faster I go. I top out at 6.5 knots of speed 
> and the stern is way down. I have a martec 18'' folding prop and I do not 
> know the pitch.
> 
> Tom Vincent
> Frolic II 1979 36' C&C
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF13 parts help

[PME via CnC-List]

Here’s a link for looking up parts:

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:10 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 21:30:13 -0500
> From: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF13 parts help

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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[PME via CnC-List]

I have been using the iOS app "Anchor Watch" with great success.  It will also 
send out alarms with drag information via email and/or SMS also with a repeat 
option.   The latest update has the ability to have the app call you.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




> On Dec 3, 2014, at 1:27 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2014 12:29:56 -0500
> From: Tim Goodyear mailto:timg...@gmail.com>>
> To: Burt Stratton  >,   "cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> "
>   mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Bill,
> 
> There is an IOS app, Boat Monitor that does this.  It will also send email or 
> SMS alerts (assuming you have one device on board / one with you ashore).  I 
> used it a couple of years ago when we were eating ashore and expecting a 
> major wind shift in the anchorage.  It helped me relax and enjoy my lunch.
> 
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
> (Currently looking for a Wednesday night ride in Cartagena, Colombia)

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Re: Stus-List Delrin top rudder bushing

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I replaced my rudder bushing with one I made from material ordered from 
McMaster-Carr.   I cut the bushing out of the material using a sabre saw and 
then cleaned up the edges with a Dremel sanding drum.   As I understand, only 
the planar surfaces are important.   The material cost was $20 from which one 
could make a few bushings.  I love McMaster-Carr almost as much as I love 
Wally's site(which maybe where I got the idea to order material from 
McMaster-Carr).


Here's the material information:

Ultra-Wear-Resistant PTFE-Filled Delrin® Acetal Resin

1/8" 6" x 6"  8578K411  $19.27

See : http://www.mcmaster.com/#acetal-homopolymer-sheets/=tyawkc



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 30, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2014 12:38:54 -0400
> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Delrin top rudder bushing
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> all
> 
> I ordered a new bushing from Annapolis Plastics. Not cheap ($$88) but I
> don't have the hole saws to do it myself.   If you are replacing yours you
> might consider using them.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel
> 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports

[PME via CnC-List]

Wally,

Yes, these must be them.   I thought I looked there, but I apparently did not 
notice any slots.   


Thanks. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 23, 2014, at 9:56 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2014 11:00:46 +
> From: Wally Bryant 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports
> Message-ID: <542152de.9080...@wbryant.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Paul - I'm pretty sure the two short ones support the sole in the aft cabin.
> 
> The long ones are the main cabin.  You can see mine on this page:
> 
> 
> You can see the short ones on this page:
>  
> Sorry if it doesn't display well.  The old HTML is obsolete and I need 
> to go back and rework just about all the pages on my site.
> 
> Wal

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports

[PME via CnC-List]

Interesting, I am guessing that these orphaned supports could have been used in 
the small starboard pilot's birth which has been converted to a nav-station and 
additional lazarette space.

Thanks for the reply.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 22, 2014, at 8:37 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2014 19:36:39 -0400
> From: Robert Boyer 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I don't think I have any sole supports that are as short as 2 foot long nor 
> are they black--mine are silver color...
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> 
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 
> 
> --

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Stus-List Landfall 38 sole supports

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,


The teak and holly sole on my LF38 rests on several ~4' long black painted 
square tubes.  I have two short (~2' long) but otherwise identical to the other 
sole supports which were given to me in a box with other components.   I have 
tried to locate where these short supports go, but I cannot find the location 
where they belong.   Can a LF38 owners enlighten me?   

Thanks.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List CnC Photo Album site is down

[PME via CnC-List]

I just tried again, and it is back up!
-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 18, 2014, at 9:06 AM, PME  wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I am not sure if others have noticed this, but I just went to 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com and was redirected to a page stating that "This 
> Account Has Been Suspended"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> 
> 
> 

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Stus-List CnC Photo Album site is down

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I am not sure if others have noticed this, but I just went to 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com and was redirected to a page stating that "This 
Account Has Been Suspended"





-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.  

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List gel coat colour

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,


The gelcoat on my old 1979 29-1 was an identical match to oyster white gelcoat 
I purchased at Jamestown Distributors.  I mixed MEKP with the gelcoat in small 
batches using a 10ml and a 1ml syringe(i.e. 10 ml of gelcoat to 0.1 ml of 
MEKP).   This oyster white color is the same as the Awlgrip oyster white so you 
may be able to find an Awlgrip color card locally to check the match.

( FIB-5702 ) GELCOAT OYSTER WHITE AIR DRY


http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1522&familyName=Colored+Air+Dry+Gelcoats



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 12, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> 
> Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2014 14:40:13 -0700
> From: Bev Parslow 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List gel coat colour
> Message-ID:
>   <1410471613.81293.yahoomail...@web162605.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> The head is now smelling great so thanks for the suggestions. Just draining 
> and cleaning out the fuel tank as we had filter problems. Now gel coat. It is 
> a 1984 29. I tried white to off white gel coat, and then off white to white 
> but it is not working well. I know it is really hard but should I be using 
> other colours in the mix? Will the new gel coat go lighter or darker with 
> time.
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> 

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Re: Stus-List 2104 C & C NE Rendezvous Dockage Form...

[PME via CnC-List]

especially those that will still be alive in 90 years. :-)


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Sep 4, 2014, at 4:10 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2014 13:08:09 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: David , CnClist 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2104 C & C NE Rendezvous Dockage Form...
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> It's hard to find good volunteers.  :)
> 
> Dennis C.

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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy

[PME via CnC-List]

Kevin,

The epoxy cartridges are nice and easy to use, but to do the job right one 
should wet out the hole with un-thickened epoxy before filling with thickened 
epoxy.  Also, don't just fill an existing bolt hole.  Over dill the hole and 
ream back any coring.  

That said, I prefer to mix the epoxy myself.  First un-thickened for wetting 
out, then adding some colloidal silica to thicken for the filling via a 
syringe.   For epoxy, I use either West System 105/205 or East System 1032/833. 
 They are near identical except East costs 1/3 less.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Aug 8, 2014, at 11:51 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 11:46:16 -0400
> From: Joel Aronson 
> To: Kevin Driscoll , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>   
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Kevin,
> 
> I'd use West Six/10 epoxy cartridges.  Easy to work with and no waste
> except for what is left in the tip. Buy lots of tips if you are doing it
> over several weeks.  I don't know if GitRot is strong enough.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Happy weekend all,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I?m going with
>> butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for ?filling and
>> drilling? holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is *Git Rot*
>> appropriate for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for
>> when I have a spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the
>> better.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other ?How To? sites.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Kevin
>> 
>> 30-2
>> 
>> PDX
>> 
>> 
>> Kevin Driscoll
>> Portland,  Oregon
>> 503  //  875  //  3493
>> 
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>> 
>> 
>> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35 Now Landfall 38 rub rail

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I was a bit surprised to hear people discuss about a white rub rail on the 
Landfall 38.  I assumed they were all teak as I have on my LF38.  That is, I 
have an iconic LF teak toe rail which bolts through the deck along with a 
separate teak rub rail (~ 1-1/2" x 5/8" ) which is screwed onto the bottom 
outside of the toe rail. 

I have just looked online, and I now notice other LF38 with the white rub 
rails, but I don't see any with a teak rub rail.   Does anyone know if the teak 
rub rail was a factory option or was it likely a previous owner upgrade?   

-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 13:07:50 -0400
From: Robert Boyer 
To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Stus-List Replacing Rub Rail - Landfall 35
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have a Landfall 38 and I replaced a short section of my rub rail a long time 
ago--it rubbed up against a piling real seriously.  It wasn't that big a 
problem but it was just a short length (maybe 3 feet long) and it was near the 
anchor well where I had good access to bolts.  If you look closely at the 
underside of the hull-to-deck joint there are both thru bolts (the permanent 
fastening) and screws (probably temporary fastening during construction).  This 
means you will have to completely remove the teak toe rail to get at the heads 
of the screws for their removal.  (You would have to remove and reinstall the 
toe rail anyway.)

Even though the part of the rub rail that sticks out beyond the hull is not 
structural or will not affect leak tight integrity, I think if you cut it off 
and put something else over it, it will look cheap.  Also, I wouldn't want to 
add a bunch of screw holes into my hull (to mount a new rub rail over the old) 
just at the structural joint between the deck and the hull.

I can tell you that the rub rail is made from white EPDM and paint does not 
stick well to EPDM.  I'd bet you can scrape it off rather easily--you could 
also use a varnish remover to make it come off easier but be careful about this 
touching the hull.

I think that before you try some Rube Goldberg fix like putting another rub 
rail over the outside, I would try very hard to clean the paint off.  If the 
paint doesn't come off, I think I would try replacing the rub rail by removing 
the entire toe rail and all the screws.  Then, try replace just a few feet at a 
time until you are all around the perimeter of the boat.  There is probably 
enough flex in the outer part of the deck to do this.  It would be a big job 
and it would be best done out of the water.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com




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Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Wally,


Thanks for your input.  I actually looked over your site to see if Stella Blue 
had the stud.  Originally I did not see any sign of one, but after reading your 
reply I came across (http://www.wbryant.com/weblogs/bV_1109/bv_205.JPG) which 
clearly shows the stud.   I did not know about the early rudder design change, 
but you make a good point about the current rudder not needing the stud.
Below is a link to an old photo of my 29-1 which shows the stud close to the 
rudder, but more importantly, it shows how the rudder is notched forward to fit 
into the hull whereas the rudder on the LF38 (the second link ), is notch-free. 
  In the later photo, the rudder has been lowered a bit and usually sits up 
closer to the hull. 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/CnC29-stud.tiff
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/LF38-studless.jpg

I wish I could now just plug the hole and go sailing, but I have much more to 
do.

I just completed replacing 9 thruhulls and seacocks(your way).  I am rebuilding 
the Yanmar 3QM30, and I have pulled the fuel tank, prop, shaft, & cutlass 
bearing, and I have dropped the mast to replace the ever-common broken mast 
step.   I have a huge list of to-dos, but I hope to have her back out sailing 
by September.  


-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Jul 8, 2014, at 8:19 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Tue, 08 Jul 2014 04:49:25 +
> From: Wally Bryant 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
> Message-ID: <53bb7855.5090...@wbryant.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
> Paul -
> 
> I have a 1.5 inch long metal stud sticking out of the bottom of my hull 
> about six inches in front of the rudder.  Somewhere I have a picture, 
> but never put it on a web page.  Every time I haul I wonder if I 
> shouldn't just cut it off, but figure what the heck it's not causing a 
> problem so leave it alone.
> 
> Bottom line: Clean the hole out and fill it.  It doesn't go through the 
> hull, obviously, or you wouldn't have time to ask the question.
> The hull is very thick there (possibly 1.5" or more) and a good 
> vinylester or epoxy resin thickened up, with a little patch of cloth 
> over it will make it go away.
> 
> Here's what I think:   The LF38, with a shoal draft, was originally 
> designed with a different rudder.  When I was looking at pictures of 
> them before buying mine, I noticed that some older boats had a shallow 
> rudder that extended forward of the post, so that the post was about 
> five inches behind the leading edge of the rudder.  (Just behind the 
> little stud.)   It had the same surface area as my rudder, but didn't 
> extend as deep.  From a cruising perspective this makes total sense.  
> You don't want to be on the hook or pushing through shallow water with a 
> deep rudder, because in any kind of chop or swell the boat will rock 
> over the keel (I wanted to say hobby-horse, but I've been on boats that 
> hobby-horse) and you don't want to bang the rudder against the bottom.
> 
> I think that the shallow rudder design didn't work.  Perhaps the boat 
> didn't sail as well, or perhaps someone decided that there was no point 
> building a bunch of unique rudders, when there was a darn good rudder 
> for a darn good 38 sitting on the shelf. Personally, I appreciate the 
> big deep rudder on my boat, and I get a lot of lift from it when the 
> boat is trimmed well.  It's about six inches shorter than the keel, and 
> I always keep that in mind when crossing a sand bar in wind or swell.
> 
> I think that the little stud was there to keep things (fishing lines, 
> lady's underwear) from fouling up the rudder/hull joint. That would 
> probably work with a rudder that was only an inch behind the stud, as 
> the offending item would slide down the stud and hit the leading edge of 
> the rudder.  I don't think it has much value with the rudder you have, 
> so fill the hole and move on.
> 
> And, here's where everyone will call me a heretic and burn me at the 
> stake.  Once I had to do a spot repair, in three hours, to fix a mistake 
> made by a boatyard worker.  My boat was taking on water, and the yard 
> boss was insisting that it was my fault,
> <*SNIP*>
> 
> Okay, I deleted 5000 words because I was getting metaphysical.
> 
> Plug the hole and go sailing.
> 
> Wal
> 

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Re: Stus-List butyl cleanup

[PME via CnC-List]

Nate,

This weekend I used a rag soaked with Naphtha to clean the old grease from the 
rudder tube.   During the process I also noticed that Naphtha cleans up butyl 
quite easily.  


-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Jul 2, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> From: Nate Flesness 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Stus-List butyl cleanup?
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Planning on cleaning and painting the storage areas on our 30-1. The
> wonderfully immortal butyl hull/deck sealant has dripped and drooped in
> many places. Any tips on the best cleanup strategy?
> 
> (PS. It was gusting 30-35 knots and 86F in the marina Sunday, but half a
> mile out our neighbors reported 40 degrees F and that their winter parkas
> were not enough so they came back in)
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior

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Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube

[PME via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd.

Do you know if the rod should have a bend to it or should it be a straight 
piece just a few inches in length?

Paul

-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On Jul 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2014 12:07:07 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Paul,
> 
>   Yes, there should be a rod coming out of that hull, and you should 
> replace it.
> 
>   It?s purpose is to deflect seaweed and other items from getting caught 
> in your rudder post as you move through the water.
> 
> 
>   All the best,
> 
>   Edd
> 
> 
>   Edd M. Schillay
>   Starship Enterprise
>   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>   City Island, NY 
>   Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Stus-List small hole in front of LF38 rudder tube

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I have come across a small pencil-sized hole in my LF38 hull located a few 
inches forward of the rudder tube.  I am not certain of the intent of this 
hole, but I do recall that on my old 29-1 that it had a short stainless rod 
coming out of the hull from about the same location(a line diverter?).  My 
guess is that the LF38 had a similar rod which is now missing.   I am thinking 
of filling the hole.   Does anyone know what this hole actually is and is there 
any reason why it should not be filled?
   
Thanks for any insight.

-
Paul Eugenio
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Stus-List hull number distinction between 38 and Landfall 38

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

When I first purchased my LF38 I was a bit surprised with the CCY hull number 
as I thought I read somewhere that the Landfalls were build in Canada.   I know 
that the LF38 shares the same hull as the 38, but what in the hull id 
distinguishes a LF38 from a 38?   I have always assumed that my hull number 88 
was that out of the LF38's only.   

I am guessing that all LF38's are build in the USA and all 38’s are built in 
Canada and as such the later would have ZCC hull id.   is this correct?   


Here is my LF38 hull id: CCY38088M81D

CCY:C&C built in Rhode Island
38: model length (but FL title list 37’)
088:hull # 088
M:  model year format
81: model year 1981
D:  built in November


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

Changing the thermostat and allowing the engine to run hotter improving both 
the efficiency in making hot potable water and fuel efficiency.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Message: 17
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 22:43:00 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system
> Message-ID:
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Why change?  Just let the engine run cooler.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 1989 C&C 37+
> S/V Sea Hawk
> Solomons, MD
> On May 21, 2014 2:07 PM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake & Relining Brakes

[PME via CnC-List]

Rob,

I just removed the Edson brakes and steering cables/chain from my steering 
system this past Sunday.   And it was near exactly as described by Graham.  The 
hardest part was removing the seized flathead screws.  With a little PB 
Blaster, some perseverance, and a lot of hammer-twisting on an old hand impact 
driver (like the one at  http://tinyurl.com/q823uja ) I was able to get the 
screws out.   I will surely use never-seize putting the screws back in.  This 
little impact driver has saved me on several occasions.

The removal of the brakes took just a few minutes at this point.  To add to 
Graham's comments, there is a special-sized washer on the brake shaft toward 
the knob side of the last brake pad.  This washer is critical in making the 
brakes work.   It turns out this washer was missing on my brake system, and 
that my brake pads are fine.  Try not to lose this washer or be very cautious 
when installing a replacement.  I called Edson trying to buy the little washer, 
but they insisted on sending a few washers out to me for free.  As many have 
suggested, stuff rags down the pedestal, but I plan to tie dental floss on this 
bugger to aid in its installation too. 

As for brake replacements, the kits go for about $77 online(Defender).  I have 
read online of folks relining these pads.   Edson even sells a relining kit but 
it costs about the same ($80 Jamestown Distributers). 

Following the success of other, I planned on relining the pads myself.  As it 
looks I will only need the washer, but if the pads do need replacing in the 
future I surely reline them myself.  It Looks like fun and for less than $10 
one could reline several sets(help out a buddy).   For completeness I included 
material list and Edson's instructions below.  




Materials
- McMaster-Carr  brake liner metal-free  3/16"T   1-1/4"W   
6175K812$3.91/ft
http://www.mcmaster.com/#brake-lining/=s2sqod
- Loctite Black Max Adhesive (or epoxy)

Brake Lining Replacement Instructions (from Edson EB355_689BrakeInstall.PDF)
1. Remove old brake pads. Clean legs with solvent.
2. Bond new pads to brake legs with generous amounts of
supplied adhesive or two-part epoxy.
3. Clamp brake legs around a pipe approximately 1 1/2" in
diameter while the adhesive cures so that the new pads conform
to the shape of the legs.
4. After adhesive has cured, trim brake pads along edges of
brake leges with a band saw or hack saw.
5. Reinstall brake components as described inside and check
operation before installing cotter pin.
6. If brake does not clamp properly, check that washer has been
installed between shaft shoulder and A743 starboard brake leg.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




On May 22, 2014, at 12:54 AM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Message: 15
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 23:06:48 -0300
> From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
> To: Robert Abbott , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Brake
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format=flowed
> 
> Hi Rob
> Pretty easy job if the screws come out easily.   If they are seized...
> 1) remove the throttle / shift lever assembly if you have one - you will 
> have to pull the pins connecting the levers to the forks on the cables.  
> Small needlenose pliers are good.  And remove the plate holding the 
> pedestal guard.
> 2) on the end of the brake locking shaft down inside there is a cotter 
> pin, you have to get that off.  needlenose pliers or needlenose vice grips.
> 3) remove the plate on top (two screws at the forward edge of the metal 
> plate that retains the upper ends of the brake pads).
> 4) hold the left pad with vicegrips or pliers, and turn the brake knob 
> to unscrew it off of the threaded shaft.  Remove left pad
> 5) hold the right pad and pull out the brake knob, the right pad slides 
> on/off.
> 
> That's pretty much it.  If you want a hand some evening, I work for 
> beer... :-)
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
> On 2014-05-21 7:17 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:
>> Has anyone installed an Edson Wheel Brake Replacement Kit?
>> 
>> When I remove the Danforth compass and look down at where the new kit 
>> should go, I wonder if this is a DIY job?
>> 
>> Reminds me of replacing my mixing elbow.if you were doing it on a 
>> work bench, no big deal.doing it in the constricted space is a 
>> challenge.
>> 
>> If anyone has done it or knows how to do it, what happens after the 
>> compass is removed?  Any and all advice welcomed.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
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Stus-List Yanmar 3QM30 thermostat for converted system

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

I am converting Yanmar 3QM30 raw water cooling system into a fresh water 
cooling system with a Sen-Dure heat exchanger.  The current thermostat is 
Yanmar part number 105582-49200.The fresh water thermostat listed for the 
3QM30F looks like a completely different size thermostat.Does anyone know 
the Yanmar part number for a fresh water (i.e. higher temperature) thermostat 
which will fit a raw water 3QM30 system?

Thanks for any help.




-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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