Re: Stus-List Sat phone minutes
Based on my 2006 experience, I'd say it's more than enough. An average call lasted about 20 seconds before being dropped. I'm told service is vastly improved but John Sent from my iPad On Apr 8, 2014, at 9:33 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: All, I've managed to borrow an Iridium sat phone model 9555 for the race. I need to buy airtime for the daily check-in,downloading gribs etc. Does it matter where I buy from? Is 20 minutes enough for the 6 day race and 6 day return? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat for Sale-Where to Advertise?
Selling on your own is not a bad way to go if you're willing to deal with the calls, showings, etc. When we sold our 34+ we did it on our own but had a local broker handle the money and paperwork for a significantly lower fee (2% if I recall correctly). Worked well for everyone. John Sent from my iPad On Apr 7, 2014, at 11:03 AM, Hoyt, Mike mike.h...@impgroup.com wrote: Create a simple website and highlight the boat with photos on it. List all your upgrades and other information. Then on any ads you post put in a link to the web site. This really helps sales. We sold our Niagara 26 on Kijiji with a link to a web site for the boat. The site showed pictures and described all gear and upgrades. I also have had a web site for the replacement boat from the time we purchased it. Any person who types “J/27 for sale” in Google sees this site in the top 15 entries (#4 in Bing). The boat is not for sale nor is it listed for sale but it comes up anyway. The boat is also well known as a J/27 should we decide to sell it. http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/ The funny thing about the kijiji saga is that I would contact a buyer back and they would ask questions like “which boat was that?” since they had replied to a lot of ads. Other questions were “does it have a toilet?” which was ironic because the head was listed in the equipment and in the upgrades and there was a photo of it on the website. The boat sold for $750 less than asking price to a pair of friends looking for a Niagara 26 who travelled quite far and picked it over two in the Montreal area. They picked this boat because of the upgrades and the sails and the fact that it was documented online for easy reference. There was even a copy of a survey from six years previous to the sale available to view on the web site. I will also consider doing future sales of my boats on my own. Mike From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina Sent: Monday, April 07, 2014 11:44 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat for Sale-Where to Advertise? Points East magazine is similar to Windcheck, and is distributed free in many of the same locations around the LIS. It covers all of New England. I imagine that it would be seen by a lot of sailors within reasonable marketing distance, such as Mystic, Ct, All of Narragansett Bay, The eastern forks of Long Island and many other areas that are close enough to you, but where Points East is probably more widely distributed than Windcheck. https://www.pointseast.com/ Bill Bina On 4/7/2014 9:37 AM, Bob Dryer wrote: My C+C 29 On Western Long Island Sound is for sale. I am advertising on Sailing Texas and Windcheck, as well as local bulletin boards. I am looking for ideas as to how else I can reach potential buyers. Bob Dryer ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Hopefully back on her lines
Finally dealing with the starboard list on Paws. I just removed 280 lbs of very old 6v batteries from under the nav station. Ironically, looking at the battery compartment under the aft berth (exactly on centerline), it's clear the owner ignored the builders idea to mount 3 batteries on centerline and instead opted to put the main bank under the nav station - about as far to starboard as you can get. I can just imagine how this went. To dealer - add lots of batteries. A few months later on some chat board - what a crappy builder, the boat doesn't even sit on its lines! Now back to three batteries on centerline and a single starting battery under the nav station. Hoping the boat sits properly on her lines. Gotta be better. John Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List boot stripe
That boat would catch my eye walking through the yard. Very nice. John Sent from my iPad On Apr 3, 2014, at 8:24 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Not to be a wise guy, but prep is determined by which paint you choose. Instructions on the can. It will mention removing any old paint or tape first, and sanding to create a mechanical bond. I painted mine w Interlux Brightside Boot Stripe paint. It's easy to use, one part, easy to touch up when scarred by a dock or whatever. I remember I had to sand w course paper before the first coat and 320 between coats. I later added stripes above using vinyl tape. It matched exactly and was much easier. You clean the surface and apply the tape. When it's done, it is done, no worrying about rain or waiting for it to dry, no runs. The picture shows the boat after haulout at end of one season. The cove stripe is vinyl tape also. https://www.flickr.com/photos/119825754@N05/13049265653/ From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, April 3, 2014 1:54:59 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List boot stripe Digging up this old thread. My question about the boot stripes is about prep. My stripes are the original (gelcoat?) and badly faded/oxidized. I have three stripes, blue, blue and red. The red is actually vinyl tape and I've ordered one of those 3m stripe off wheels for that. The two blues are different, one lighter than the other. I'll be using brightside and 3m fine line tape and I will also use the primer. But how do I prep to ensure that there is no wax or residue before going on with the primer? The guy at the store told me to sand but I don't know about that. I'll do it if it's the correct course of action. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 9:08 PM, Jim Reinardy firewa...@reinardy.us wrote: On my old Catalina, I changed the boot stripe from brown to blue using Brightside. On that boat, there were parts of the stripe in the water most of the time, and every year much of the paint would come off when she got power washed in the fall. I spoke to the Interlux people and they said that no stripe paint on the market would stand up to being below waterline for any length of time. In response, I switched to vinyl tape. That was still going strong when I sold her 5 years later. I would definitely go the vinyl route again. Jim Reinardy CC 30-2 Firewater Milwaukee, WI Sent from my iPad On Feb 4, 2014, at 3:08 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Brightside: Forgot to mention, I changed our bootstripe in 2007 from red to flag blue. For six years it held up well and I had very few touchups. Then last year, I changed it to black and added two black vinyl tape stripes above it. I was redoing my PoliGlow, so removed most of that 1st. Then I simply sanded the flag blue boot stripe to provide tooth, 150, then 220, wiped with 202 I think, then painted a coat of brightside, lightly sanded with 320 and painted second coat. Why use tape? No wait for drying. Needs very small weather window. No need for second coat. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2014 3:48:14 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List boot stripe FWIW, Brightside works fine for me for bootstripe. I can easily touch up any scars in the bootstripe each spring and PoliGlow does an amazing job of making the touchups blend and it all looks brand new. I don't see the value in the two part paints as they need measuring and mixing and if you add a flattener, it's a two part flattener, making it a four part paint. I remember reading somewhere that Interlux recommends using their single part paints for high traffic areas or places that might get scraped, anywhere you expect to be touching up now and then. It's so easy to just open a can of brightside and pour a thimble full in a plastic cup and dab on a bit of paint and throw away the brush and cup. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2014 1:25:26 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List boot stripe David, The data sheet says not to apply over other paint. Did you ignore that (as I would)? Other than mixing it, is there any difference in the application process? Joel On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 1:01 PM, David Drake d...@rogers.com wrote: I used to use Brightsides and redid the boots stripe yearly . Changed 3 years ago when I painted the boat and did the boots stripe in 2 part Interlux Perfection . I haven't had to redo the stripe since .I would strongly suggest switching to a 2 part paint ,in the end the added work to apply is more than offset by its durability DDrake 73 JH CC 26 On Feb 3, 2014, at 11:00 AM, Joel Aronson
Re: Stus-List Nicro Solar Fans/Vents -- Worth it?
I had two set to exhaust on my 34+ many years ago. Mounted them in the aft hatchs and then left the forward hatch slightly open. It did make a difference on a boat with so-so ventilation. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 30, 2014, at 12:28 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, Has anyone tried installing those Nicro solar fans onto their CCs? I would assume the best practice would be to have two, one towards the front of the boat blowing air in and one toward stye beck blowing air out. Are they worth the investment? If you’ve used them, where did you place them? Defender sale ends at midnight, so any feedback before the day ends would be appreciated. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF
+1 for icom John Sent from my iPad On Mar 29, 2014, at 1:42 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: My Standard Horizon VHF needs to be sent back to thr company for the second time in just over 2 years. Once again it will not charge. I'm thinking of replacing it. Any recommendations? Are the DSC versions readily available yet? -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List SSB Ground
This is always a crazy topic but thought it worthwhile for this group given the experience level. Before I start running copper ribbon all over the boat, does anyone have any great ideas for a counterpoise? The boat has plastic thru-hulls and tanks. I could include the the metal holding and fuel tanks and a keel bolt or two. Most interesting, the boat has sail drive - a great big hunk of metal sticking out the bottom of the boat. With sail drives comes all sorts of concerns over electrolysis. Any thoughts? This is just to get a ham rig up and running for recreational purposes. No immediate cruising ambitions. John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List SSB Ground
Ii've not seen the kiss system before. It sounds almost too good to be true. Has anyone actually used it? John Sent from my iPad On Mar 29, 2014, at 8:54 PM, Paul Kunicki paulkuni...@hotmail.com wrote: According to this article by Gordon West you really are better off having one seawater ground: http://www.kp44.org/ftp/SeawaterGroundingFor_HF_Radios_byGordonWest.pdf If this is not possible you might want to look at a KISS radial system: http://www.kiss-ssb.com/ Thanks for your time and patience, Paul Kunicki Systems Manager Owner 1977 CC 29 MKI Boca Raton, FL From: j...@svpaws.net Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2014 18:42:48 -0400 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List SSB Ground This is always a crazy topic but thought it worthwhile for this group given the experience level. Before I start running copper ribbon all over the boat, does anyone have any great ideas for a counterpoise? The boat has plastic thru-hulls and tanks. I could include the the metal holding and fuel tanks and a keel bolt or two. Most interesting, the boat has sail drive - a great big hunk of metal sticking out the bottom of the boat. With sail drives comes all sorts of concerns over electrolysis. Any thoughts? This is just to get a ham rig up and running for recreational purposes. No immediate cruising ambitions. John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Honda 2000i
In the last boat, I had a nice monster of a genset in an 8kw westerbeke. It served its purpose well at the time in that we effectively had more power at anchor than we did dockside. In planning my next cruising boat, it will NOT have a genset. They are Noisy Smelly Addicted to maintenance Heavy Real estate hogs Require fuel A great way of annoying people at anchorages Sorry, but the little Honda Gensets that sit on deck are even worse. You may not hear or smell it but the person behind you certainly will. In a popular/crowded anchorage everyone comes prepared to accept a little inconvenience. In a nice quiet little cove with just you and one or two other boats it's a different story. Just an opinion John Sent from my iPad On Mar 27, 2014, at 7:54 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: Richard I have a Honda 2000i as well: Northern Tool for $1000. Note there are 2 slightly different models - one is set up to parallel for bigger loads, the other has a DC out. On my 35-3 it will just fit between the propane lockers aft by the rudder stock (my humped helm seat is in the garage). When in use it just sits on the Starboard cockpit coaming to get the exhaust up and out. It doesn't seem like it should sit there but I have never had a problem. I have a short cord I made up to plug it into the shore power outlet. Then I can run any of the 120 systems I need. (AC, battery charger, microwave, outlets.) It is quiet but not silent. I can't run both the AC (9,000btu) and the battery charger at the same time. It gets close but after a couple minutes craps out with an overload. It is a great generator and surely will allow hair drying. But I only bring it when I know I will need AC on the hook. Otherwise it is bulky (though less so than other generators) and in the way and adds an xtra gas can (dinghy 2 stroke/ Generator 4 stroke) Usually it is on standby hurricane duty. Got it after Charley- Not ever doing storm clean-up with only warm beer again Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Inverters
Usually it's a remote panel for the inverter. It's an option on the cheaper units, standard on the higher end models. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 27, 2014, at 10:29 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: All, I’ve always wanted to have a setup like this, but, as part of it, put the inverter in a locker or behind the instrument panel so the wires and the big metal box are hidden. Does anyone have something like this set up? And, if so, how do you power on the inverter? Or do you have the inverter out and have a cord plugged into one of the outlets that runs back inside to your shore/gen switch? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Mar 27, 2014, at 10:07 AM, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com wrote: Edd, Blue Seas makes a couple of different ways to switch between an Inverter and Shore Power. Either solution could be mounted next to the AC Panel beside the Chart Table on the Enterprise. Here are links to the switches (two ways of doing this): http://www.bluesea.com/products/8367/AC_Rotary_Switch_Panel_30_Ampere_2_positions_%2B_OFF_2_Pole or http://www.bluesea.com/products/8032/Traditional_Metal_Panel_-_120V_AC_30A_Toggle_Source_Selector The Rotary Switch is a little cheaper than the Breaker solution and you don't need the breakers as you have a main breaker in the AC panel right next to the suggested switch location. To wire this up, the existing wire from the existing shore power inlet (which goes directly to your existing AC Panel) would now go directly to one side of the Rotary Switch and a new, short wire would jump from the Rotary Switch to the existing AC panel. A new wire from the inverter would go to the other side of the Rotary Switch. Simple. Ken H. On 27 March 2014 10:44, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Dennis, Interesting. Where do you have your shore/gen switch and how is everything wired up? All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Mar 27, 2014, at 9:34 AM, Dennis C. capt...@gmail.com wrote: Ray, It's a small 120 Volt AC travel dryer. It works OK for the admiral. When on the hook all my 120 v receptacles are powered by the 1000 watt inverter through a shore/gen switch. She can plug it in to any of 5 receptacles throughout the boat. Dennis C. Touché 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA Sent from my iPhone On Mar 26, 2014, at 11:36 PM, RAYMOND SHIBE rsh...@optonline.net wrote: Dennis, Now take that new hair dryer and connect it to your car battery to see how it works. My situation is somewhat different but we had a 12 v coffee maker. 45 minutes to make coffee. We now use a Sea Cook propane stove in the cockpit, 10 minutes to perc a pot and better coffee.. Ray Shibe ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Honda 2000i
Mike: Just caught the Buzzards Bay location. Would you mind if I contact you off list? My wife and I may have an opportunity to relocate to that area from Long Island. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 27, 2014, at 10:04 AM, Fair, Mike mike.f...@mckesson.com wrote: Ditto. Thanks, Mike Fair Buzzards Bay -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2014 8:20 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Honda 2000i In the last boat, I had a nice monster of a genset in an 8kw westerbeke. It served its purpose well at the time in that we effectively had more power at anchor than we did dockside. In planning my next cruising boat, it will NOT have a genset. They are Noisy Smelly Addicted to maintenance Heavy Real estate hogs Require fuel A great way of annoying people at anchorages Sorry, but the little Honda Gensets that sit on deck are even worse. You may not hear or smell it but the person behind you certainly will. In a popular/crowded anchorage everyone comes prepared to accept a little inconvenience. In a nice quiet little cove with just you and one or two other boats it's a different story. Just an opinion John Sent from my iPad On Mar 27, 2014, at 7:54 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: Richard I have a Honda 2000i as well: Northern Tool for $1000. Note there are 2 slightly different models - one is set up to parallel for bigger loads, the other has a DC out. On my 35-3 it will just fit between the propane lockers aft by the rudder stock (my humped helm seat is in the garage). When in use it just sits on the Starboard cockpit coaming to get the exhaust up and out. It doesn't seem like it should sit there but I have never had a problem. I have a short cord I made up to plug it into the shore power outlet. Then I can run any of the 120 systems I need. (AC, battery charger, microwave, outlets.) It is quiet but not silent. I can't run both the AC (9,000btu) and the battery charger at the same time. It gets close but after a couple minutes craps out with an overload. It is a great generator and surely will allow hair drying. But I only bring it when I know I will need AC on the hook. Otherwise it is bulky (though less so than other generators) and in the way and adds an xtra gas can (dinghy 2 stroke/ Generator 4 stroke) Usually it is on standby hurricane duty. Got it after Charley- Not ever doing storm clean-up with only warm beer again Kim Brown TrustMe!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List floor board fasteners
Very expensive solution. Unless you're planning serious and extensive offshore sailing, I fail to see why you would do it. I vote for the electric screwdriver. Can certainly sympathize on the glued down floorboard issue. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 11:27 AM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote: I have seen some quick release fasteners for that. Here is one example: http://www.go2marine.com/product/212864F/floor-anchors-installation-kit.html. They aren’t the cheapest solution, but they might be worth it. Marek -- Message: 11 Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:13:44 -0400 From: =?utf-8?B?d3dhZGpvdXJuQGFvbC5jb20=?= wwadjo...@aol.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List floor board fasteners Message-ID: mailman.481.1395846864.15405.cnc-list_cnc-list@cnc-list.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I am redoing my cabin floorboards. Previous owner had them screwed down. Very difficult to remove for inspection. Anyone have link/suggestion for other options for securing with better access? I thought I had saved a similar question but can't find it. Bill Walker Evening Star CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Inverters
Battery capacity and wiring to/from the inverter are the only constraints. Even at a 200 amp draw (1500 watts/115 x 13 + converter loss) the battery usage is still only 15 amps assuming 5 minutes of usage. Big wires however. Also, check my math! John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 11:05 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, As part of my ongoing battle for my wife not to cut her hair short, she would like to be able to use a hair dryer on board the boat. My current inverter is rated at 600 Watts AC, which is nowhere near enough to handle a hair dryer. Anyone know of any issues in changing my inverter to one that can handle 1600 to 2000 watts? I was thinking something like this (but waiting until after 2:00pm today when the price drops): http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289972id=1704363 All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Inverters
True, but the actual load is only 125 amps + the converter inefficiency. Either way, it's not unmanageable. Of course, the load will come at the worst time - in the morning after the batteries have been running the fridge all night but before the engine is running. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 12:46 PM, Della Barba, Joe joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov wrote: Due to Peukert’s formula it is going to be a lot more than 15 AH. Maybe as much as double that. Joe Della Barba From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 12:37 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverters Battery capacity and wiring to/from the inverter are the only constraints. Even at a 200 amp draw (1500 watts/115 x 13 + converter loss) the battery usage is still only 15 amps assuming 5 minutes of usage. Big wires however. Also, check my math! John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 11:05 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, As part of my ongoing battle for my wife not to cut her hair short, she would like to be able to use a hair dryer on board the boat. My current inverter is rated at 600 Watts AC, which is nowhere near enough to handle a hair dryer. Anyone know of any issues in changing my inverter to one that can handle 1600 to 2000 watts? I was thinking something like this (but waiting until after 2:00pm today when the price drops): http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289972id=1704363 All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Flexible Solar panels
And the flexible variant tends to be less efficient than fixed. That's changing but at a price. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 3:55 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I bet you'd get more milage out of insulating your ice box better. Don Casey has a whole chapter about this in his book good old boat. If I ever install refrigeration on my boat I'm only doing it after an icebox rebuild. To answer your question about the panel, the dodger will not help you. Shading, even very minor shading, render the panels almost useless. See here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2UdCOq0A5c With a 65 watt (rigid) panel on my bimini top I get 3 to 3.5 amps at peak daylight hours. That's not enough to run a fridge. Flexible panels on a dodger won't be any better, even they are bigger. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 2:52 PM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: All, Looking to add some solar. Currently I am only good for about a day at anchor before I have to address the batteries. Main draw is the reefer. (wife has short hair and have gone with LEDs) We were anchored out this past weekend and by the end of day 2 the batteries (2x grp 31h - 110 amp hrs each) were about out of juice. Warm beer is not an option. Hate running the engine at anchor; don't have any room for another battery without major work; not enough wind around here to make wind work. No dinghy davits or other structure to put rigid panels on. SO anyone have any experience with the semi flexible solar panels that you can attach (Velcro) to your bimini top? Not looking to trickle charge to top off- I am at a dock at the house and can plug in when home as needed. I need to keep the beer cold at anchor on day 2-3. Kim Brown Trust Me!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Inverters
Ed: If you tell your wife of two years to stick her head in the oven while you run bilge blowers please sell tickets! With luck you'll be on the Genesis planet when you make the suggestion. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 2:59 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Edd Turn the oven on, use a bilge blower fan and connect a hose…presto, hair dryer…or connect to your heating system, especially good for espar forced air or be the first to invent a good propane / butane hair dryer…you are on the Starship Enterprise so you should have the resources…right J From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina Sent: March 26, 2014 3:30 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverters Is there any guarantee that going through all this effort and expense will prevent your wife from cutting her hair short any way, as she apparently wants to do? :-) Bill Bina On 3/26/2014 2:23 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Edd, Took a while but we found a smaller hair dryer that Touché's 1000 watt inverter will handle. The admiral likes it OK. Also my research on this indicated that somehow running a European voltage hair dryer on North American voltage works. Not sure how but I read something to that effect on the web. Must be true then. :) As others have said, it will represent quite a draw so make sure you size the wiring and circuit protection accordingly. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 26, 2014, at 9:05 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, As part of my ongoing battle for my wife not to cut her hair short, she would like to be able to use a hair dryer on board the boat. My current inverter is rated at 600 Watts AC, which is nowhere near enough to handle a hair dryer. Anyone know of any issues in changing my inverter to one that can handle 1600 to 2000 watts? I was thinking something like this (but waiting until after 2:00pm today when the price drops): http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289972id=1704363 All the best, Edd ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Inverters
So the suggestions are: Stick her head in the oven Plumbers torch Dinghy ride @ 20 knots Other propane torch Triple ought cable to a $1000 inverter Short hair sounding good right about now? John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 6:53 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: You could probably lash something up with a small 12V fan and a plumber's propane torch. Don't get too close. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 26 March 2014 15:14, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: That’s funny, I thought it was too obvious that the bilge blower not the head went in the oven…interesting variant though, I’ll take a book of tickets From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: March 26, 2014 6:45 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverters Ed: If you tell your wife of two years to stick her head in the oven while you run bilge blowers please sell tickets! With luck you'll be on the Genesis planet when you make the suggestion. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 26, 2014, at 2:59 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Edd Turn the oven on, use a bilge blower fan and connect a hose…presto, hair dryer…or connect to your heating system, especially good for espar forced air or be the first to invent a good propane / butane hair dryer…you are on the Starship Enterprise so you should have the resources…right J From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina Sent: March 26, 2014 3:30 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Inverters Is there any guarantee that going through all this effort and expense will prevent your wife from cutting her hair short any way, as she apparently wants to do? :-) Bill Bina On 3/26/2014 2:23 PM, Dennis C. wrote: Edd, Took a while but we found a smaller hair dryer that Touché's 1000 watt inverter will handle. The admiral likes it OK. Also my research on this indicated that somehow running a European voltage hair dryer on North American voltage works. Not sure how but I read something to that effect on the web. Must be true then. :) As others have said, it will represent quite a draw so make sure you size the wiring and circuit protection accordingly. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone On Mar 26, 2014, at 9:05 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, As part of my ongoing battle for my wife not to cut her hair short, she would like to be able to use a hair dryer on board the boat. My current inverter is rated at 600 Watts AC, which is nowhere near enough to handle a hair dryer. Anyone know of any issues in changing my inverter to one that can handle 1600 to 2000 watts? I was thinking something like this (but waiting until after 2:00pm today when the price drops): http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289972id=1704363 All the best, Edd ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anyone need some CC30 parts?
Paul - where are you located? I know a Paul Baker. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 20, 2014, at 7:48 PM, Paul Baker pauljba...@shaw.ca wrote: I looked at this one last year before getting my current boat, looks like she's been in the wars since. IIRC she was nicely equipped for racing. Sad. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/SALVAGE-SALE-1976-30-ft-CC-Fibreglass-Sailboat_21760888 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anyone need some CC30 parts?
That's a relief - thought you were my boss for a minute! John Sent from my iPad On Mar 20, 2014, at 10:29 PM, Paul Baker pauljba...@shaw.ca wrote: Sidney, BC On 14-03-20 05:54 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote: Paul - where are you located? I know a Paul Baker. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 20, 2014, at 7:48 PM, Paul Baker pauljba...@shaw.ca wrote: I looked at this one last year before getting my current boat, looks like she's been in the wars since. IIRC she was nicely equipped for racing. Sad. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/SALVAGE-SALE-1976-30-ft-CC-Fibreglass-Sailboat_21760888 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Adding cockpit drain on 38Mk2
Where is the head discharge? John Sent from my iPad On Mar 17, 2014, at 2:56 PM, Petar Horvatic phorv...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone added cockpit drains through the transom or added new through-hulls. As you all know cockpit has only two drain holes. They were originally 1-1/4” on my ‘76 38mk2. Back in ‘04 I have enlarged them to 1-1/2” to help draining. I would like to use one of them for the watermaker inlet (instead of drilling through core), and was thinking of draining the cockpit via transom. Petar ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Used sails
I've found that you can do really well on spinnakers and storm sails. Others not so much. If your boat has measurements close to a popular model you may get lucky. Else, it's a used sail to get you through a season or two or to try a new fabric. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 15, 2014, at 9:56 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: I’ve picked up sails from Minney’s and Bacon. Mostly to find something to get me through a couple years until I can afford a real sail. The rating systems are unique, but you also have to remember you’re buying a used sail. If you want something that performs like a new sail, pony up for it. Each place does a nice job of keeping complete junk out of inventory – this is coming from someone that has tried to get rid of old sails through them. I’ve found these shops will negotiate, but only after the sail has been in inventory for a while. Timing is everything. Hope that helps if someone is considering going that route. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . Sent: Friday, March 14, 2014 8:48 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Used sails I've bought headsails from Minney's, Bacon's and Masthead - hoping to learn what the perfect headsail was - and then order something new. The big deals with used sails are the price and the rating. One man's fair-good is another's B+, is another's B-. Bacon's (Mrs. Bacon, RIP) negotiated -~%20% on my first purchase (a heavy mylar, yankee-cut 145 - sucked) but her successor wouldn't budge later on a 145 NorLam (mildewed). Neither Minney's nor Masthead would dicker. My current headsail (~125) was acquired locally (super-cheap and crinkly). I'll probably stay with it as it's well shaped, easy to tack, and eventual cruising has become more appealing than racing. Bob M Ox 33-1 Jax, FL On Fri, Mar 14, 2014 at 1:23 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: All, If you are looking for used sails check out Minney's Surplus. There prices are better than Bacon's, plus they are offering 1/3 off hybrid laminates. I just bought a #2 and a #3 for a ridiculously low price. Hopefully I'll be hoisting them in a couple weeks. -- Joel 35/3 Annapolis 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Autopilot under the deck -off topic
Now that you mention it, where are the women on this forum? John Sent from my iPad On Mar 12, 2014, at 5:19 PM, D Harben sailadventu...@rogers.com wrote: Argh Could some female please resolve this male quandary? Don On Mar 12, 2014, at 5:13 PM, David Blair dblair...@gmail.com wrote: what do you put on the ram for lubricant? I've never had problems with my unit but lubing the ram had never occurred to me ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Boat Name Removal Techniques
Oven cleaner, razor blade and very fine sandpaper. Sent from my iPad On Mar 11, 2014, at 10:01 AM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Try a razor blade scraper…be careful until you get the knack, finish up with polishing compound…is the paint on gelcoat? Wet the surface with windex before you start using the razor blade scraper and keep it wet throughout From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly petew Sent: March 11, 2014 10:53 AM To: cnc-list Subject: Stus-List Boat Name Removal Techniques I want to change the name on my boat, which currently has a painted name on the stern. The removal process is either mechanical, chemical, or some combo. Any thoughts on the best approach, including materials to use? thanks, Pete W. Siren Song CC30MKII Deltaville, VA. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Whipping
Yes, it's a great thing for cocktail hour (really) John Sent from my iPad On Mar 8, 2014, at 6:43 AM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hi David, I also have some hi-tech lines that won't seal with the hot knife, so I whipped the ends with whipping twine. There are many videos online if you google, whipping a line. It's so easy, I whip the ends of just about all the lines on the boat, including my docklines. I melt the ends, but whip them to prevent separation. I also found heat shrink tubing in white somewhere, but haven't tried that yet Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Friday, March 7, 2014 12:37:49 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List British and other sports cars (now Liquid electric tape) Related to this dipping of ends- I got a new mainsheet last summer out of VPC and the non-spiced non-wipped end is fraying badly. I found I could not melt it as I was accustomed to doing to seal the end. What is the best way to deal with this? Dave On Mar 7, 2014, at 11:04 AM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.com wrote: If it is sold for $7 at Lowes in the US, it would be sold for about $14 in Canada, so Binnacle (and Star Brite) are not overcharging that much. Marek (in Ottawa) - David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Now Boat Names
Ok, I'll jump in. Walking down the dock to the launch last year, I noticed a powerboat tied up to the dock. As I got in the launch the operator just smiled at me and said - wait a minute. Heading out to my mooring we passed the stern of the powerboat. The new owner was hard at work removing the name on his new boat Bow movement No renaming ceremony required. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 7, 2014, at 9:05 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: When I bought her, my 38 was named Scarlet Fever. (the original name since she was launched in 1976 in Lake St. Clair, as it turns out.) So obviously a name change was in order. My former girlfriend and I looked at a lot of potential names. I’ve always thought “Emerald Flash” or “Green Flash” was a good name, since one of the things on my bucket list is to actually see one from the deck of my own boat. But if you call her “Green Flash” and race her, you’d better be darn fast. Another potential name was “Primal”. The psychological term for an experience which can only be understood from experience and not from description as a “primal experience” – and sailing is certainly one of these. If you can tell a non-sailor how you can get an adrenalin rush on a sailboat traveling at something between walking and jogging speed, you’re a better man than I. Anyway, we came up with a total of 27 potential names from astrology, mythology, astronomy, quotations, etc. How to decide among them? We had a lottery! We each picked our favorite 10 out of the 27. I think that left 16 or 17 (maybe I should have known the relationship was never going to last at that point?). Then a second cut to get down to 9. Those went into a hat…. And out came Imzadi. (Which was my personal favorite. And my former girlfriend hated it. As Edd will know, “Imzadi” is Betazoid for “beloved”, and the context is that it is a term reserved for your first or greatest love. Will Ryker and Dianna Troi of Next Generation have an historic relationship, and it is an endearment they use on occasion in the series. And it is certainly a fitting name for my boat, and for sailing. I admit it. I’m an incurable romantic. My 25 is named “la Belle Aurore”, which most movie buffs will know is the bar where Rick and Ilsa say goodbye in Paris, in the movie Casablanca. Rick Brass Imzadi -1976 CC 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore -1975 CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2014 10:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Now Boat Names As you may have guessed, my boat's name is based on a Lucille Ball / Desi Arnez-produced 1960’s failed train-wreck NBC television series . . . . . . which led to highly-rated syndication, five spin-off television series and 12 feature films, not to mention decades and decades of merchandising dollars for Paramount/Viacom. For me, though, the Starship Enterprise was an “escape vehicle” — when I got home from grade school in the 70s, I could leave all the pressures and troubles behind, turn on WPIX channel 11, and I’ll be exploring the final frontier’s strange new worlds, seeking out new life and new civilizations . . . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Help understanding composites
I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff.. So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar. Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same. Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell remains. Am I even close? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites
Thanks - was confusing the terms mat and roving. Wish the book was still in print - will need to find a copy. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 1, 2014, at 2:53 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Glass mat and chopped strand are the same thing...CSM. The 34+ was probably a layup of CSM, woven roving, and kevlar in a vinylester matrix with balsa core. E glass is the same basis as woven roving, just a different weave. Cloth is a lighter version of roving. The woven roving in the 34+ and the 121 would both be e-glass, although the later boat would likely have some biaxial or unidirectional glass in places for better engineered strength. For more information, have a look at this...http://www.marinecomposites.com/ Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 1 March 2014 11:27, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff.. So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar. Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same. Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell remains. Am I even close? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites
So vacuum bagging essentially draws the resin into the substrate as opposed to just letting it sink in? I could see how that would be more precise and require less resin. On that note, resin adds minimal strength but bonds ? All questions. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 1, 2014, at 3:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: You sound on track, though you should start with a solid fiberglass hull like the 1961 Alberg 35. Surprised the spec shows only 12600# displacement. Checking the brochure info, the 1990 34+ used biaxial fiberglass/kevlar hybrid laminate with (waterproof) Hydrex isothalic NGP resin w aircraft quality balsa core. The deck is similar adding coremat in winch areas. At some time vacuum bagging reduced the amount of excess resin in the whole build process and that was the heaviest element. Before that, engineers were guessing at the total weight. Now it is more exact. My understanding of Kevlar is that it is stronger but still flexes. A buddy of mine made a wakeboard of Kevlar and it would flex more than fiberglass, and he could smack it with a hammer and just bounced off. Carbon is much more expensive, not as strong as Kevlar, but much, much, lighter and stiffer. Early carbon would shatter and splinter when stressed. They improved the formula somehow and re-enforce stress areas more so it is less brittle than before. They put carbon in sails now. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2014 2:27:15 PM Subject: Stus-List Help understanding composites I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff.. So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar. Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same. Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell remains. Am I even close? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites
yes, clearly balsa would rot when wet where as the core cell would not. Presumably the latter would just delaminate much like a blister? Is the advantage of the foam core that any moisture intrusion would be more localized? Is there a weight and/or cost benefit? I would guess the balsa would have greater insulating properties however the foam would add some strength? So much knowledge on this list John Sent from my iPad On Mar 1, 2014, at 4:29 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Balsa core rots when it gets wet but it is quite strong on end if ebcapsutaed but a solid surface like a several layers of glass matt in cured polyester or other resin...aligned E glass fibers used with knowledge of where the stresses are highest offer more tensile strength than chopped strand and consequently less are required so lighter weight construction can result and have the same or better strength. Kevlar fibers have very high tensile strength and used as Kevlar matt in a resin laminate has good resistance to impact damage and is also very lightweight, carbon fibers are very lightweight and have high tensile strength as well, but the best results are achieved with proper alignment of the fibers corresponding to the direction of highest stress Just a guess -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: March 1, 2014 3:27 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Help understanding composites I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff.. So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar. Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same. Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell remains. Am I even close? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Help understanding composites
Got it - thanks John Sent from my iPad On Mar 1, 2014, at 8:54 PM, Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com wrote: Vacuum bagging clamps everything and draws out air bubbles, gives a more consistent result with less resin. Resin infusion is vacuum bagging on steroids, you pull a vacuum and you inject resin at pre-set points, the resin is drawn in with great control - so even less material, better results. Vacuum bagging can be done by an amateur, I have done it a few times, whereas resin infusion is the domain of the pro. Ideally you want enough resin to bond the layers together but just that amount. Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2014-03-01 9:19 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote: So vacuum bagging essentially draws the resin into the substrate as opposed to just letting it sink in? I could see how that would be more precise and require less resin. On that note, resin adds minimal strength but bonds ? All questions. John Sent from my iPad On Mar 1, 2014, at 3:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: You sound on track, though you should start with a solid fiberglass hull like the 1961 Alberg 35. Surprised the spec shows only 12600# displacement. Checking the brochure info, the 1990 34+ used biaxial fiberglass/kevlar hybrid laminate with (waterproof) Hydrex isothalic NGP resin w aircraft quality balsa core. The deck is similar adding coremat in winch areas. At some time vacuum bagging reduced the amount of excess resin in the whole build process and that was the heaviest element. Before that, engineers were guessing at the total weight. Now it is more exact. My understanding of Kevlar is that it is stronger but still flexes. A buddy of mine made a wakeboard of Kevlar and it would flex more than fiberglass, and he could smack it with a hammer and just bounced off. Carbon is much more expensive, not as strong as Kevlar, but much, much, lighter and stiffer. Early carbon would shatter and splinter when stressed. They improved the formula somehow and re-enforce stress areas more so it is less brittle than before. They put carbon in sails now. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2014 2:27:15 PM Subject: Stus-List Help understanding composites I'm but an accountant not an engineer. Help me understand this stuff.. So if I use a 1990 34+ as the baseline, the hull was a composite of vinyl resin, presumably glass matt and chopped strand, balsa core and Kevlar. Now fast forward to 2000 and my early 121. The glass Matt has been replaced by E glass, balsa has been replaced by core cell, glass strand remains to add bulk and the Kevlar remains. Presumably this provides a lighter hull as the e glass is stronger than matt, core cell is lighter than balsa and requires less resin and the Kevlar remains the same. Fast forward another 10 years and we have epoxy, reinforced with carbon which does the job of Kevlar, matt, e glass and strand. The core cell remains. Am I even close? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Marine systems
I think what you're really suggesting is called open source. Tough to justify if you've invested millions and all you've managed to accomplish is taking the #1 spot away from Apple. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 19, 2014, at 9:12 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: Make it happen and get a lot of beer! Rich On Feb 19, 2014, at 22:06, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Do you guys know what OS Raymarine, Garmin et al use? I'm sure they're different but I'm guessing they are all proprietary to their brand. Is that correct? If it is, that would mean that they have a whole team of people developing their OS, right? Why? A thought: why don't they simply license Android, fire their software department (or re-orient them to create amazing Raymarine/Garmin, whatever apps for Android) and make more money? We the consumer get a platform that's much more flexible than what those devices are currently running plus access to all these wonderful apps, which would only get better and better if there was a hardware environment for them more suitable to the marine environment than tablets. The fact that Raymarine now has apps for those devices is telling, people are clearly using tablets on their boats. I think they have it backwards. Don't bring raymarine to the android device. Bring Android to the raymarine device. The marine tech companies are in the hardware business first, software is secondary. They should stick to their core competency and let the big guys do the software part. More frequent updates and bug fixes, a standard user experience regardless of manufacturer. The freedom and ability to run all kinds of apps on your boat computer (because that's what a chart plotter is). Etc. There's already a software environment which means there is demand in the market (navionics, mx mariner, opencpn, etc). My feeling is that the software companies are going to be able to provide much better apps for us than what raymarine and garmin are currently giving us. Imagine a raymarine computer at your helm, just like their top of the line plotter but you can install whatever you want on it and do whatever you can currently do with your android device (because it runs android). If they wanted to, they could port their chart software to android and sell it as an app or provide coupon codes to download it free with the purchase of their hardware. Why is Raymarine developing music playing apps and weather apps for their proprietary platform? That costs money! and this stuff already exists. Think blackberry. They got it all wrong. Along came Samsung and took the entire market (Apple too, but Samsung is #1). If blackberry licensed Android before the whole end game thing happened I think they'd still be around, and profitable. People liked their platform, sure, but what they really liked was their hardware. I've played around with the chart plotters at the boat show and the chandleries. I wasn't really impressed with any of the interfaces. They should continue to build amazing marine grade HARDWARE and let the people that know software handle that part. Someone is going to come along and do this. Personally, I would buy a Marine Tough android device for the helm before I purchased any purpose built plotter. It would do everything that a plotter does plus so much more (for those times when you're alongside a dock and want to watch a movie in the cockpit or some other frivolous thing like facebook or the CC mailing list ;) ). Hell, install a display down below. Computer. Play movie. Terminator 2. And so on. Science fiction had it all figured out with Hal. One central computer. One computer to rule them all and in the dorkness bind them. I wish I was capable of starting a business like this, I'de do it myself. Most people have MULTIPLE computers on board. The VHF these days is a computer, the laptop at the nav station, the chart plotter, the instrument displays .. why?!!! Just give me one CPU running a commonly used platform and let the software companies duke it out. Plug in a bunch of dumb displays or interactive displays, whatever your budget allows. Hook up all your transducers and sensors and you're off to the races. Focus on making amazing marine hardware and continue to charge marine prices for it. Stop spending money on coders to maintain your proprietary system and MAKE MORE MONEY. Or like I said before, turn them into an App department and port what they've already got as apps .. FOR SALE! Rambling thoughts on a wednesday night. Someone's going to owe me a beer if this happens. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Richard Any well ventilated flat space works - they are fairly substantial in size (especially with duct work attached) so the typical location is under a bunk, v berth, etc. This location also has the advantage of being close to the bilge as the unit generates a considerable amount of condensation which has to go somewhere. You just build a shelf capable of supporting 50 lbs, add prefabricated intake vents and off you go... Sort of. Hanging lockers really aren't ideal as the weight is higher in the boat but access is easy, hanging space is often not required anyway and ventilation may not even be required if the locker has the mesh material used on later boats. Obviously the closer to the area you're trying to cool the less ductwork is involved which makes installation easier. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 17, 2014, at 9:01 AM, Richard N. Bush bushma...@aol.com wrote: Dennis, and others; apologize up front for being so basic, but never having had AC at all, I'm having difficulty following the thread; are these units being installed into the clothes locker just forward of the Main Settee? If not, then where? If so, what cutting or reconstruction has to be done to accommodate the units? Richard 1985 37 CB; Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 8:29 am Subject: Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit Just a note on AC brands. I started out with a Mermaid 16K reverse cycle unit I installed in1999. Sent it back to Mermaid for repair twice in 8 years. Switched to a Cruisair 16K reverse cycle 6 or 7 years ago and sold the Mermaid on eBay. The Cruisair has run without a burp since install. My buddy here is the go to guy for refrigeration and AC installs and repairs. He is the Cruisair factory repair tech for this area. He works on all brands, Mermaid, MarineAir, etc. He swears by Cruisair. Dennis C. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 6:50 AM, Kim Brown kimcbr...@comcast.net wrote: Chuck Late to this party but- FWIW our 35-3 has a 9k unit from mermaid (they are local so no shipping...). It is intentionally undersized so we can run it off our Honda 2000 at anchor. Great once the sun goes down but it loses the battle mid afternoon in the 90's. The 9k also fit better in the hanging locker where we could vent easily to the v-berth and main cabin. Pay attention to the space needed for all the air handling bits and pieces. The larger the unit the larger those bits and pieces need to be. We spent the xtra for the reverse cycle. It adds a lot of flexibility though we consider 50's to be winter here. (sunny and headed to 80 today) Don't know about others but the thermostats we started with never lasted more than a year or 2- just not marine ready. So I finally just bought a Honeywell hockey puck and as it is all mechanical it has been just fine. Kim Brown Trust Me!!! 35-3 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Really depends on where you are. I had a 12k unit on the 34+ years ago and it was marginal in Jul/Aug in NJ. If you have room and power for 16k don't screw around. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 16, 2014, at 3:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hey listers, A friend says 12000BTU is the right size for my 36 footer. He speaks from experience so I value his opinion. But it's February, I got time, and I just want to be sure, cause a 16000 fits in the same space and I don't want to be undersized. FWIW, Defender is showing my unit on Miami Boat Show sale for the same price it appears in their 2014 catalogue. I love Defender, but damn, that's sleezy. I was hoping to get this installed before Spring, but guess I'll wait till their March Madness Sale? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit
Just remember that what these things draw when running is very different than the load when the compressor first starts up. The 16 could easily draw north of 20 amps for a short period. Plan accordingly. Not sure what else you're running but 30 amps can go quick. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 16, 2014, at 8:35 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Thanks for all the great responses. Might get a generator onboard someday, but for now I'm planning on setting up our AC to run on shore power only. If we want AC, I'll plan to stay at a marina. The 16000 needs 12 amps, the 12000 needs 9 amps, 30% less power consumption but still too much for my battery banks. Josh, Shades for the windows are a great idea! My boat has none and suffers for it. Dennis, your reply reminds me how the water temperature effects capacity also. I plan to keep the boat in Annapolis this season, so I think I'll be ordering the 16k. Thanks all, Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com To: CnClist cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 6:54:12 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Sizing AC unit I have a 16KBTU Cruisair on Touche' No doubt in my mind you need a 16KBTU if you're anywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line. It can hold mid 70's inside up to about 90F outside. Above that, it holds high 70's. That's with a head start. That is, if it was on all night and we got the boat temp down into the 60's prior to sun up. If you're starting mid-afternoon with outside temps in the 90's, you'll take a couple hours to break 80F inside. Also Touche's forward hatch is fiberglass, the midships and companionway hatches are white translucent. Clear hatches will let a lot more heat in. There's also the reliability factor. I'd rather have a larger unit humming merrily along than a smaller unit struggling and running more hours. One of the more overlooked factors is the size and run of the cooling water hose. Bigger is better. It WILL make a difference. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 2:25 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Hey listers, A friend says 12000BTU is the right size for my 36 footer. He speaks from experience so I value his opinion. But it's February, I got time, and I just want to be sure, cause a 16000 fits in the same space and I don't want to be undersized. FWIW, Defender is showing my unit on Miami Boat Show sale for the same price it appears in their 2014 catalogue. I love Defender, but damn, that's sleezy. I was hoping to get this installed before Spring, but guess I'll wait till their March Madness Sale? Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List when to go cruising
Choose your areas and plan accordingly. Free is relative - cruising permits, clearing in fees, etc. In general, you got the idea. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 14, 2014, at 8:21 AM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Hook close to the meca when you need a day to shower/ laundry take on fuel and water and food right? You pay at these spots. Then the rest of the time you drop hook in less traveled anchorages and no pay? Of is that not safe with the bandits? On Fri, Feb 14, 2014 at 6:43 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: Steve - Marinas aren't cheap down here. They've figured out that gringos will pay SanDiego prices, and electricity and water are meteredand extra. And many good anchorages are now filled with mooring balls, and even if you don't trust the mooring ball and use your own hook, you pay to anchor. Yet another reason to Go Now before it's gone... Buying new chain outrightis harder than you can imagine. It's simply not availabledown here. I picked up that used chain from a guy who had a friend bring 300 feet down from the US on the friend's boat. I was planning on trucking some down next summer, and the logistics are daunting. I was going to buy it, have it trucked to a freight forwarder in San Diego, and then have it trucked across the border and down Baja. Basically, double the cost. You might think that it's crazy, and that they have chain in Mexico. Yes, they do. It'll last about a year. (Hey, you wanted chain, this is chain, what's the problem?) I'm down in Banderas Bay at the moment, back on the hook since I now trust mychain. I've been hanging here to work with an Ophthalmologist that I trust. My eyes are pretty weird -- I'm one of those people who have worn coke-bottle bottoms since 4 years old. I wear glasses over contacts. Apparently, people with eyes like mine don't live long down here. They get hit by a busin childhood. I'vespent a lot of money learning that you don't have to be licensed or trained to sell glasses and contact lenses down here. You just hang up a sign that says Optica. I've been given the totally wrong prescription. (Hey, you wanted lentes contactos, these are lentes contactos, what's the problem?) So yeah, I've got a good Dentist in La Paz, and a good Ophthalmologistin Bucerias, and a Woman in Santiago. Good thing I have a boat. you wrote: snip And that's a lot of money to spend on Marinas. A thought occurs: would it have been cheaper to simply buy new chain outright? And now a question, are you parked in La Paz or are you getting around? (for that year) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List when to go cruising
Curt: You can always pull it off. You would be astounded by what some people are cruising in and for how little (especially the French). With that said - if it were easy everyone would do it. The best way to plan is to take the word cruise out of it. Too personal. What would you do if you lost your job tomorrow and knew you would be unemployed for 1-2 years? What changes would you make to your budget? We found our overall budget changed very little when cruising. It was just spent differently. Also how, where and what you cruise will often determine cost. Rental income while cruising (net of the two) - a huge plus Don't hit the 401k Working while cruising - possible but a lot of people try to do that. Special skills are useful. Consult for your current company? Why not try a shorter cruise first - maybe just a year. You'll have a much better sense of what it's all about and know if both you and your wife want the lifestyle. A lot of people hate it very quickly. Can you take a sabbatical from work? Can you take several weeks vacation in the winter? Don't get hung up on going forever. pm me if you like - advice is free and worth every cent. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 11, 2014, at 12:46 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks for the support guys. I have a great little boat in the East Coast lady the problem is, we had a plan to leave in a 5 year time frame and now the last daughter has been excepted to the university of South Carolina and Mama thinks we should pay for it out of our 401-K. I don't know how to fix this one! I think it will change the dynamics of the relationship of the cruise. We may not be able to retire early or at all for that matter. I had a plan to leave in 2018 or 2019 at the age of 55. That would give me 5 years to cruise and make our way by savings and side work. We also will have 2 rental properties. The daughter's school will set us way back on the time frame. Do you have any advice on how to overcome this hurdle? It could this costing us at least a 3 year cruising kitty. It's not that I don't want to send my girl to a good school. I will just have to give up my 40 year dream to do it? Your post just made this a little real for me. I did not mean to spat off. So Here is the lay out. 1) Primary resident $205,000 very good rentable property was planning to rent when we sail 2) Rental property paid off $85,000 collecting $725.00 a month Will continue to rent when we sail 3) Rental property $95,000 rented but not enough to cover mortgage. Will sell for a loss 4) $300,586.58 in $401-K can't touch till age 62 without penalty. 'Start collecting after 5 year sail 5) Savings $15,000 roughly. 6) Both the wife and I are fully vested in the SS program. Not sure how to pull this off. Very disheartened ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List when to go cruising
Steve: My wife and I quit perfectly good jobs in 2006 to go cruising. It was perfect. We were in a recession and by the time we got back the economy would be in recovery. Oops. In the end, you just have to trust in yourself. The good news is that after cruising you are more transient by nature. There will likely be work out there - it just may not be in the location you left. Can't comment on how quickly skills would become obsolete. keep in mind, I only left for a year. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 11, 2014, at 12:22 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Thanks all. What I've noticed is that it seems there are many that plan and wait and save and plan, and then never go. I've lost family and friends to cancer, I'm sure everyone has and that scares me more than anything; not being able to live long enough to really have some experiences and more importantly, to see what happens next! Maybe I'm missing the point? Maybe the point is to have kids and settle down. Maybe if I have kids I'll settle down and become 'realistic'. Probably not. If we do this, it's an all or nothing affair. Truth be told that scares me. I'm a lucky SOB to be where I am in life with a house, a wonderful partner and a good job. I'll be throwing away two of those things but really making a whole lot more room in my life for the third :) Finding another job when/if we come back is the main worry. In my field things change very quickly. I guess they do for everyone these days. Has anyone gone cruising for a few years and returned to life and work? How was THAT transition? I'm fairly confident I can get used to living on a boat in the tropics ... coming back is another matter. How do employers look at you when you answer the question what have you been doing for the past five years and you say sailing? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 10:50 PM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Life happens. I married a sailing gal long ago. She loved adventure and could hand, reef, and steer. We cruised our 22 ft Cape Dory from NJ to Branford and NJ to Swan Creek, in Chesapeake Bay. We learned together how to windsurf and travelled to many island destinations. Two kids and several jobs later, I get a really nice sailing CC, but the kids can't go because of field hockey or soccer practice, and now they are ot of college and I find I'm the only sailor left standing. Kids and wife are focused on careers and I'm the only one interested in sailing or cruising. I'm 59 and should be retired. Worked for 40plus years but have an expensive hobby. Decided this year to take my boat cruising the Chesapeake, getting a slip near Annapolis, a 3 hour commute, while putting her up for sale for a high number. Happy Valentine's Day! It's a long drive, but once you are there, you are in Mecca. Wal is 100% right. Go cruising as soon as you can. Or go when you can afford to go. But just go. Expand your horizons. Crew for other boatowners in other areas. Invite yourself aboard. Another lister in Seattle took me sailing and I extend that offer to the list, to come sailing on our boat. I'm looking for crew in Annapolis. Email me. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ From: j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 10:10:29 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List when to go cruising Curt: Lighten up (just saying). ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Cruising while you're young
You can absolutely do it for 2,000/month or less. Lots of people are. Drink local beer/rum/crystal lite Avoid marinas/land activity in any tourist area except as a splurge (BVI, Etc) Red beans, rice, pork, chicken, local produce and whatever fish you catch Keep the boat simple, small and low tech Boat and all debt is paid Basic insurance Minimal trips back home Some kind of health insurance paid - the real challenge for most of us Skype, email or ssb - no cell or sat phone For the most part, the further south the cheaper (think VZ) Good dinghy so you can minimize marinas and anchor If the above doesn't hinder your dream - go. Take lots of pictures and make everyone jealous. (And don't mess with your 401k) John Sent from my iPad On Feb 11, 2014, at 4:32 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: We are talking Freedom? or service-vs-servitude. The whole reason I want to go is for freedom., I want to see and experiance the places I have read about and meet other like minded folk like us. I want to live simple. I want my stress to be a hung anchor with the prospect of suiting up the tank and regulator mask and fins. I want to smell the rain. I want to have to reef. The wind is so Light here in Beaufort I never get to reef. I want to have fun finding light houses and old citys and history exploring. I want to learn about nirds. i want to see the wild life . I Dont want to see a car for months. I dont want to see a baggy pants high rimed chevy driving gettow thug for 2 years. I want to open a can of redbeans and boil -a- bag of rice. I want make crazy love to my wife on deck under the stars why she is still in d mood. I want to make coffee in watch the sunrise every day and take a map in the afternoon. I think I can have this for 20 to $25,000 a year. I hope. On 2/11/14, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: Here's a site for some great cruising early in life: http://www.navy.com/ Worked for me! Got to see lots of tropical lands. Some were even friendly. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List when to go cruising
Well said... John Sent from my iPad On Feb 10, 2014, at 6:52 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: *GO* while you still can. Someone mentioned the number of retirees who buy a boat to 'go cruising' with varied results. I've seen countless big bucks boats that were tricked out for cruising, and the owner was waiting for retirement and the pension, but died first. Heck, my brother-in-law recently died at the ripe old age of 57. Even if you live long enough to retire, you might not be physically capable to handling the lifestyle. A few years ago I heard some woman screaming HELP ME HELP ME (apparently she didn't know how to use the radio) so I jumped in the dink and went full throttle. Her husband had dislocated his hip stepping into the dinghy from the beach. That was a big deal, and the Mexican I Normal cruising adventures can be challenging. Getting from the dinghy to the boat in 20 knots with a good chop can be a challenge. I'm something of an expert at timing, and can wait for the perfect moment to step on the side of the dinghy and do a 1/2 flip to end up on my butt on deck, and also can find the handrail without thinking. It's good to know your boat. But it's getting harder, and I'm only 56 years old. Think about doing that while tossing groceries or Jerry cans on deck. Done it. Oh, my back. Speaking of Jerry cans, imagine needing to fuel up and the nearest place is two miles away in the desert. It's easy to hike two miles in 105F heat with eight empty Jerry cans -- you just take a spare piece of rope and toss them over your back. But getting the full Jerry cans back is a challenge. Yes, I have trudged back and forth for a full 14 miles in 105F heat, carrying a six gallon jug of fuel in each hand for each return trip. And I won't do it again. (Tip: Take a sail tie and wrap it through the handle, and lash a rolling hitch on your upper forearm. Thus the weight is borne by your shoulders, and your hands can be used to maintain control without cramping.) Yeah, yeah, yeah. To be perfectly honest, the 2008 debacle left me in bad shape, and I took a good look at the big picture and knew that I should forget my dreams and go back to work. Then I said 'EFF IT.' We are not voyagers. We are sources of revenue. Hey, dinner is ready. I could shoot my mouth off on this topic forever, but I need to eat. Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fuel tank
Had a similar situation with our genset. Builder had swithched the returns to the two tank system. Never did fix it - just switched tanks a lot. Looked on it as our was to transfer fuel between tanks! John Sent from my iPad On Feb 10, 2014, at 9:06 PM, Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com wrote: Nah – you T the fuel return to the vent line. You need the hot fuel to dump back in the tank, not recycle right back to the engine. As for the returns on multiple tanks , I cough wink read about a guy delivering a Viking motoryacht that looked aft and saw a trail of fuel. Some research into the fuel valves showed fuel from A going to B when B was full already. Some airplanes do this too. If you don’t use the tanks in the correct order you will be venting a lot of $6/gal fuel over the side. Joe Della Barba j...@dellabarba.com Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 8:57 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before the filter? IIRC that is not a good idea. Many diesel engines return more fuel than they use. Some of the extra fuel is used for cooling the injectors. I have a vague memory of a story regarding having two fuel tanks and one fuel return line. The result was one empty tank and one over filled. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle image001.png From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 5:52 PM To: Peter Fell; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel tank Has anyone tried teeing the fuel return line into the fuel feed line before the filter? Just wondering?? Rich On Feb 10, 2014, at 20:03, Peter Fell prf...@gmail.com wrote: There is a kit you buy that provides the return line fitting on the flange of the fuel sending unit I think they only sell it with the sending unit included: http://ca.binnacle.com/p6463/MOELLER-%2335724-10-DIESEL-RETURN-KIT/product_info.html If you can’t get the flange and return fitting separately, I’d just put the other sending unit up for sale on craigslist. Someone out there needs a new sending unit. Check out the Moeller site for more info. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List when to go cruising
Curt: Lighten up (just saying). I was lucky, I went cruising when I was 45. Now I'm planning my next cruise (a longer one) which I'll do when I'm sixty. My point (and I suspect Wal's) is to go as soon as you are halfway ready, but don't postpone needlessly. Life has a way of stepping in. I've heard lots of 5 year plans - yours sounds pretty darn committed. Good luck and enjoy. You shouldn't care what anybody says, least of all me. As to Wal's comment - I've also lugged jerry jugs for miles in 100 degrees (Turks). Gotta figure out a better way. Not sure about the rolling hitch thing however. No discouragement - pure encouragement. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 10, 2014, at 9:43 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Bah Humbug!!! I'am 51 I will be 52 bin March. I , No, We are leaving in 5 years. I will be 57 and Ill wait no more. and We will be back when we retire at 62. Well, unless she has not had enough. I love my dream. I want it so bad. I have a boat I have been putting money and time into the dream. I hope your advise John is not for us to give in to life. I spent the best years of my life giving to everybodys cause. Its now my turn. Thank you very much. Just saying. Curt. On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 8:52 PM, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: Well said... John Sent from my iPad On Feb 10, 2014, at 6:52 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: *GO* while you still can. Someone mentioned the number of retirees who buy a boat to 'go cruising' with varied results. I've seen countless big bucks boats that were tricked out for cruising, and the owner was waiting for retirement and the pension, but died first. Heck, my brother-in-law recently died at the ripe old age of 57. Even if you live long enough to retire, you might not be physically capable to handling the lifestyle. A few years ago I heard some woman screaming HELP ME HELP ME (apparently she didn't know how to use the radio) so I jumped in the dink and went full throttle. Her husband had dislocated his hip stepping into the dinghy from the beach. That was a big deal, and the Mexican I Normal cruising adventures can be challenging. Getting from the dinghy to the boat in 20 knots with a good chop can be a challenge. I'm something of an expert at timing, and can wait for the perfect moment to step on the side of the dinghy and do a 1/2 flip to end up on my butt on deck, and also can find the handrail without thinking. It's good to know your boat. But it's getting harder, and I'm only 56 years old. Think about doing that while tossing groceries or Jerry cans on deck. Done it. Oh, my back. Speaking of Jerry cans, imagine needing to fuel up and the nearest place is two miles away in the desert. It's easy to hike two miles in 105F heat with eight empty Jerry cans -- you just take a spare piece of rope and toss them over your back. But getting the full Jerry cans back is a challenge. Yes, I have trudged back and forth for a full 14 miles in 105F heat, carrying a six gallon jug of fuel in each hand for each return trip. And I won't do it again. (Tip: Take a sail tie and wrap it through the handle, and lash a rolling hitch on your upper forearm. Thus the weight is borne by your shoulders, and your hands can be used to maintain control without cramping.) Yeah, yeah, yeah. To be perfectly honest, the 2008 debacle left me in bad shape, and I took a good look at the big picture and knew that I should forget my dreams and go back to work. Then I said 'EFF IT.' We are not voyagers. We are sources of revenue. Hey, dinner is ready. I could shoot my mouth off on this topic forever, but I need to eat. Wal ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
In the northeast, many buyers will shy away from boats with 7' draft (except the die hard racers of course). That may be another factor on the asking price. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 8:22 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: My poo tank is in the v-berth and we try to keep that one empty. I imagine that fuel tankage becomes an issue when making the Galapagos to Marquesas passage. But then, I'm basing that on things I've read on the internet ... It just seems that if I'm going to pick a boat and spend a bunch of money I want to keep my cruising options as wide open as possible. I do love those 40s though, and in my mind 40 was always the magic number in regards to boat length. Seriously, what do you guys think of this boat: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C-%26-C-40-2408263/Lower/CT/United-States#.UvOMW2RDuiM I know, something's wrong with it I just wonder what. offers encouraged. It's clear from the spec list that lots of stuff needs repair but those are all odds and ends. If the deck, rigging and motor are sound that's a good deal. The 40 was a solid hull, no? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I wrote: Watermakers are small, affordable and efficient these days. I've never regretted pulling the v-berth tank and converting to storage. PS. Removing the weight of the big water tank in the V Berth allowed me to carry full chain anchor rode. Very useful. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. What Dwight describes is pretty much textbook for a double line reefing system. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Yes, which attach to the horns at the gooseneck. Dogs, geese and cattle apparently. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 9:01 PM, Charles Nelson cenel...@aol.com wrote: Are the dog bones referred to metal loops connected by a strap that are threaded through a cringle on the luff of the main? I have not heard that term used before. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Rick: If you're talking about the reef clew being secured to the boom before running through the cringle then absolutely agree. If you're suggesting that tying the foot of the sail to the boom every couple of feet with little pieces of line will somehow enhance sail shape, well... if you say so. It's just a loose footed sail. Use the usual techniques to flatten. Don't measure wind in true. 18-20 true going downwind probably won't require a reef (or a flat sail). It's all about apparent. Link to nice piece on various reefing configurations http://offshore-sailor.com/seamanship-and-boat-handling/5-reefing-systems.html Best John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 9:34 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: John; On my 38, the distance from the tack cringle to the outhaul cringle of the first reef is about 11 ½ feet. My first reef is somewhere between 4 and 5 feet above the loose foot of the sail, and amounts to just under 25% of the area of the main. So there is a lot of canvas that can belly out in the wind and add to the draft of the sail. If its blowing hard enough for me to reef the main – say something around 18-20 knots true – I want to get the sail as flat as possible. So I’ve never considered the reef lines tied around the boom to be a cosmetic thing. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Pretty much the same setup on Paws. The only difference is we run the tack line (Cunningham) from the mast base up through the cringle and then back to the mast base where it is tied off. Eliminates the figure eight knot but does create a chafe point. Never thought of eight knot - interesting idea. Will try it. We also removed the bones as they do get in the way. Does it tend to pull the sail to one side? John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:25 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Rick My sail has dog bones too…I run a high Cunningham, I put a figure 8 stooper knot in the line and run it up through a padeye on the port side of the mast below and forward of the boom, then up through the first reef cringle (dog bones still installed) and down to and through another padeye similarly installed on the starboard side of the mast to a block at the base of the mast to turning blocks on deck and then to a Lemar clutch on the coach house that I can tension from the cockpit with or without winch assistance, depends if I need the winch to get proper tension..I have not set up the second reef…If I needed that much main reef I would get rid of the main altogether and go headsail alone. I removed the hooks at the gooseneck, because I do not need them with this setup and the did get in the way sometimes. The outhaul for the first reef is fasten starboard side of boom and aft of first cringle when reefed, from there up through cringle and down to turning block on port side of boom and from there inside boom to gooseneck and down to turning block at base of mast, aft through deck organizer to similar Lewmar clutch on coach house which I can tension with the same winch. Both lines are led aft on starboard side of deck and my main halyard is on that side too, so all 3 needed control lines are on starboard side coach house and can be with the same winch, one after the other. I have a backup winch that I can use if the primary breaks. I have 4 winches on the coach house, 2 on each side. Maybe hard to visualize and I don’t really have a good photo, but believe me this setup works like a charm for the first reef. I have autopilot but if I reef going to weather I have found that the boat will hold the course on her own while I reef…if she didn’t I would engage the autopilot. Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: February 6, 2014 8:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List insuring a 38 landfall
Yes, 2,600 per year sounds very, very high. Boat US is by no means the cheapest but by most accounts are extremely responsive and provide good coverage. Price will vary significantly due to nav area and boat value. By comparison, my 121 is insured by Progressive for about $800 annual (coastal only). I'm sure BoatUS would be more responsive but I figured the best bet is to simply avoid having to file a claim John Sent from my iPad On Feb 5, 2014, at 9:53 AM, dre...@gmail.com wrote: Hi I currently use Progressive for insuring my CC 29. I called them to insure the 38 Landfall and I was informed that they do not insure sailboat over 35' in length. They did how ever added the 38LF on to my policy for the remainder of the policy year (Aug) , but informed me that the policy will not be renewable. I have been looking for other insurance companies, and so far I have received only one quote as most companies are not interested. The quote came from BoatUS, but I was shocked that the quote is 4 times more than what I am currently paying at Progressive.Does $2,600/yr seem reasonable?What insurance companies are others using? Thanks for any insight. Paul - Paul E. 1979 CC 29 Mk1/ 1981 CC 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Ontario 38
I encourage you but the best laid plans When my wife and I left perfectly good jobs in 2006 to go cruising for a year or so our reasoning was that the time was perfect as we were in the middle of a recession and the market would be recovering when we got back in 2008. Are we smart or what! It all worked out thankfully, just realize you can't predict the future. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 4, 2014, at 10:18 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: I'm meeting with my real estate guy tomorrow morning to start a discussion about selling the house. I'm not entirely serious just yet, but serious enough. I have a chance here to live the dream for at least a few years, what happens after, I don't know. It's a serious consideration at this point, not yet a serious plan. Spreadsheets have been made, there's no turning back now! My logic is that the Canadian real estate market is overvalued and a correction is on the horizon. If I'm going to live in a depreciating asset it might as well be a boat :) The admiral and I are young yet and not in a rush to have kids. We can take off for a few years and see what happens. I may never have this chance again, I'm only going to get older and if my genetic heritage is of any indication, crabbier! Once kids are in the picture I can forget about cruising until I retire .. and I might be dead by then! (existential angst - you only live once) Curtis, same guy ;) What I want: Fin Keel. Solid build capable of doing passages, not interested in rounding any horns (but who knows how I'll feel in a few years, I prefer to keep my options open) Lots of opening ports/hatches (Caribbean cruising - I love the CC 40 but it fails on this point and lack of tankage but they sure are priced right and beautiful!) Commodious anchor locker, windlass or at least a good place to mount one. Lots of tankage. A nice interior that will make the admiral happy, specifically a proper galley. Quite frankly we plan to spend a lot more time at anchor than out in a gale so yeah, I like a nice interior! Without a house this is the primary residence, it better be nice. Not interested in slumming it around the tropics in a floating dorm room. Separate shower is probably mandatory as well. The Passport 40 is the perfect boat, but I'm too poor for that. Well, I think ... my agent might tell me otherwise tomorrow. 40 feet is about the right size. If I could do it all on a CC 40 that would be the boat. Lack of tankage can be partially addressed with a water maker but it still fails on the ventilation bit and fuel tankage ... unless you guys can convince me otherwise. I get the impression from pictures that they lack storage (cubbies, cabinets, etc). They are priced right though and would leave enough money for a refit. Also, draft may be an issue. I really do love them though, totally based on aesthetics :) and not ashamed to admit that. Looks ARE important. All signs point to the 40 being a good sailor too and that's high on the list for both of us. We're not interested in getting around in an old shoe. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Feb 4, 2014 at 9:32 AM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: I am reasonably sure there is an Ontario 38 at out club..it looks to be extremely well equipped for blue water sailing.I don't know who owns it but if you are serious about buying this one, let me know and I will attempt to locate its owner for you. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/03 9:11 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: Hi All, I'm trying to find more information about the Ontario 38. It's a reach because apparently there were only 4 made. George Cuthbertson was the designer. The Ontario 32 is a well regarded boat and apparently built well. The 38 is good looking but information is very slim. Anyone ever sailed on one of these? Knew/know an owner? There is one for sale sort of nearby. Here's a picture: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzUwWDEwMDA=/z/P6sAAOxyUrZS5TbV/$_20.JPG handsome. And what info I could find on sailboatdata: http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=3068 Thanks, Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Not CC related but priceless
http://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/4300899710.html You just can't make this stuff up. Any takers? John Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Documentation
Sign your name to the form and set it back to the USCG. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 28, 2014, at 8:27 AM, Harry Hallgring hhallgr...@icloud.com wrote: Mirage was documented since day one. It is now time to renew it. I have never done this before. Is it an easy process, or is it worth having a service do it for a fee? Harry ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Raymarine X-5 wheel autopilot on a 38 Landfall
I was going to say... Wheel pilot on a 38' boat is pushing it. Not sure what the OP is looking to do with the boat but it's more than a little on the light side. World of difference (and price) between wheel pilots and below deck. Pretty much anything can steer a boat in 10 knots of wind. Beyond that, loads change quick. Lot of boat. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 28, 2014, at 8:00 PM, Steve Sharkey stevebshar...@gmail.com wrote: I have an X-5 on my CC 37 and it is inadequate for anything but the most mild conditions or motoring. I'm having it replaced this winter with an under deck unit. Steve 1983 CC 37 Impromptu -Original Message- From: Paul Eugenio Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2014 3:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Raymarine X-5 wheel autopilot on a 38 Landfall Hi, After many years of enjoying (and fixing/upgrading) my CC 29 I have am upgrading to a 38 Landfall. I few years ago I installed an X-5 wheel autopilot on my 29-1.The old specs for the X-5 put a 38LF right near the upper limits. I am planning on moving the X-5 over to the 38LF before selling the 29-1.Does anyone have any experience with how the X-5 performs on a 38 Landfall under sail? I am sure it would perform fine under engine power, and I have learned with a tender vessel like a 29-1, that good sail balance is key to a happy autopilot performance, so I would think that giving the stiffer sailing characteristics of the 38LF that the X-5 may perform fairly ok. Input from 38LF autopilot users is greatly welcomed. yours very truly, - Paul E. 1979 CC 29 Mk1 ( 1981 CC 38LF ) S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Handrails on CC 33
And it's almost impossible to make starboard leak free. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 22, 2014, at 7:24 PM, Nate Flesness nateflesn...@gmail.com wrote: which starboard color did you find best matched the CC smoke gelcoat? Nate Sarah Jean 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Wed, Jan 22, 2014 at 10:21 AM, Robert Boyer dainyr...@icloud.com wrote: About 10 or 12 years ago, I changed all my teak handrails to stainless steel. I measured the locations of all the existing bolt holes and made the new handrails to suit the old bolt locations. I used stainless steel pads on the rails where they fasten to the cabin top. This project was the second best project I ever did to my boat--the foirst being the redesign of the windows. That yearly maintenance spent on the handrails has completely gone away and allowed my time to be spent on more important maintenance projects. At that time, I considered making the handrails from Starboard but I decided against it and I'm glad because Starboard still gets dirty--stainless steel doesn't. I would highly recommend the stainless steel handrails--there are pics on my blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230) email: dainyr...@icloud.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List structural question
The big question, is what do you plan to do with the boat. A silly but very telling question - in the roughest conditions you've been in, how noisy is the boat? Lots of squeaks and creaking or essentially no noise other than Mother Nature? John Sent from my iPad On Jan 23, 2014, at 10:09 PM, David Drake d...@rogers.com wrote: DDrake 73 JH CC 26 On Jan 23, 2014, at 10:32 AM, Pete Shelquist pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote: I'm not sure how many other designs are like this, but the 37 doesn't have a continuous bulk head forward by the stays. Strbd is by the hanging locker and it T's about midway into the wall for the head on the port side. I'm concerned about the flexing in the hull. Long story, but the symptom is apparent when I loosen the rig over the winter and tune it each spring. In the winter I can close the door to the v berth, but once the rig is tightened up the frame is askew and the door won't close. We're talking a 1/8 -1/4. I'm cautious to not over tighten the rig and squeeze too much, but there is considerable tension to get it set up correctly. I did check to review that all the tabbing was in place and secure. I thought about just removing the door :) Is this an issue for anyone else and has anyone tackled the project to reinforce the walls in this area? Or is it just one of those things and I shouldn't worry about it unless there's significant change? Other thoughts/suggestions? Thanks, ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up
It's all about sail shape in coordination with the helm. In general, very full sails are more powerful but won't let you point as high. Flat sails are slower but allow for higher pointing. Assuming you're going into a downwind leg, you want your sails to be as spinnaker like as possible. Loosen everything and move genoa cars forward. Someone else alluded to it but a good practice is to start further off the wind and come up to your desired course slowly. Assuming sails are properly trimmed, acceleration is more a factor of a straight rudder, flat water, clean air and boat preparation. Above all, as a new racer try to stay with the fleet. If everyone is on one side of the course there is probably a reason. I not the big racer however... John Sent from my iPad On Jan 18, 2014, at 11:25 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round the windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed? How do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed? Thanks. CC30 MK1 Curtis. -- At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. - Robin Lee Graham ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Clearing in to Bahamas
Others will jump in with more current info but my experience in the Bahamas is very easy and varies widely based on who you meet. Great place to cruise, Absolutely loved it. Enjoy, I'm very jealous John Sent from my iPad On Jan 19, 2014, at 2:26 PM, Steve Thomas sthom...@sympatico.ca wrote: I plan to enter Bahamas as crew on a sailboat next week, and I was wondering if anyone on the list had any advice or recent experience with the customs and cruising permit procedure. This will be the first time for the owner and myself and we plan to leave from Titusville when weather permits, or if it persists nasty, work our way down the ICW and cross whenever there is a weather window. We have read the customs clearance procedure on the government web page, down loaded the inward declaration form, and we have the Q and courtesy flags. Boat is a Hughes/Columbia 35. Thanks in advance. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Prop Question
As you saw in the other posts, your friend is right about propulsion, optimistic about the drag and very good at spending your money! You'll have to set your own priorities. For sailing on that part of the bay/river, I don't know that I'd make it my top priority. If everything else on the boat was as I wanted, and I had a few spare boat dollars handy John (also a Baltimoron) Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2014, at 10:44 PM, Brian Morrison brianm...@hotmail.com wrote: Hello List, I have a 1979 CC 34 with the original 2 blade martec folding prop. While at the yard today a friend suggested changing the prop to a fixed three blade for greater propulsion. The previous owner was a racer and I am more of a cruiser. My friend suggested that the 3 blade drag would be negligible but power would be much greater. Any thoughts or recommendations on prop replacement would be appreciated. Brian Brian C. Morrison S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale 1979 CC 34 Baltimore, MD ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Folding versus fixed prop
Much less prop walk in reverse Not sure that's a good thing. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 14, 2014, at 7:24 PM, Bob Hickson bobhick...@rogers.com wrote: When I bought my 29 mk 2 in 2012 it had the original fixed 2 blade prop on it. Performed well when motoring HORRIBLE prop walk in reverse Lots of drag (read slow) when sailing. In the spring of 2013, I installed a feathering, three blade, used CDI prop that I bought from a former 29 -2 owner. Boat motors at same hull speed / engine RPM as before. MUCH less prop walk in reverse. AMAZING improvement in thrust when manoeuvring around the docks Significant increase in sailing speed. I am VERY happy with the feathering, three blade great improvement over the fixed, two blade Best regards, Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA CC 29-2 Flying Colours Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club Pickering, ON (416) 919-2297 bobhick...@rogers.com __/) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Autohelm St4000 how it should work with the GPS
+1 exactly how I have mine set by design. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 13, 2014, at 1:26 PM, David davidrisc...@msn.com wrote: At the risk of being a Luddite... I love my auto-pilot and use it constantly. But by design it is isolated from all electronics. I like being the interface and having to constantly check the course et al. Seems safer to me. David F. Risch 1981 40-2 (401) 419-4650 (cell) Date: Mon, 13 Jan 2014 13:13:46 -0500 From: cpt.b...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Autohelm St4000 how it should work with the GPS I just googled it looking for an answer to me problem and This is the website that I came up with. http://www.jfaughn.com/crew_boat_projects/projects/garminautohelm/492autohelm.htm On Mon, Jan 13, 2014 at 12:10 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: The blue wire on Raymarine 4000 autopilots is the -V for the power supply. I suggest you track down whoever told you to hook it up like that and beat him senseless. Read the manuals for each, it isn't rocket science. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 13 January 2014 05:04, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Got it all wired in today and I need some help. I have an older model Autohelm St4000 and a new Echo50s Garmin.\I have the blue wire from the control head going to the blue wire on the Garmin I have the red wire to the inst switch and a common ground to the batt. I have the baud rate set to 4800. Here goes the dumbest question I have asked. How do I get it to steer the boat? The st400 when in gauged will respond to the control head. How do I get it to steer a course? Thanks so much for your help. one other question. IO have a transducer at the top of my mast with App and True Wind / Wind Speed, I have a gauge that I want to use in one location but I want the information to go into the Garmin as well.It will take the information according to the instruction I just don't know how to get all of the inputs in the one last remaining brown wire on the garmin? Thanks again for your help -- At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. - Robin Lee Graham ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. - Robin Lee Graham ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List APS Sale
Just received my rigging order from them. Exactly as described. BTW - no discount on premade halyards. All in all a great experience - ordered Monday received it Thursday with all ends nicely finished. I went with the Yale product for a significant savings over StaSet. Between that and the sale I came in about 35% lower than budget (staset with defender/rigging only) A huge savings when you're replacing most sheets and control lines on a 40' boat. They responded instantly to my questions. Highly recommended outfit based on my single experience. Defender had a similar sale last month so timing is everything. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 10, 2014, at 4:46 PM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: Actually, the sale is for 15% off line and 25% off labor. You have to read the fine print to figure that out. That discount makes the price equivalent to normal Defender pricing for lines they both carry. Dave On Jan 1, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Happy New Year all! APS has 25% of all line and rigging in January. Joel -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com David Knecht, Ph.D. Professor and Head of Core Microscopy Facility Department of Molecular and Cell Biology U-3125 91 N. Eagleville Rd. University of Connecticut Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 860-486-4331 (fax) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List unstepping mast
Sent from my iPad On Jan 8, 2014, at 1:24 PM, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: Dave: If you have no experience with masts the size of yours, and if our one or two friends you will need to assist you don't either, I agree with Joe, the $200 each way is a bargain. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/01/08 12:06 PM, Della Barba, Joe wrote: $200 is a HUGE bargain. I paid that just to rent the crane and did all the work myself other than that. Joe Della Barba Coquina. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Folsom Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2014 11:01 AM To: cnc-list Subject: Stus-List unstepping mast Hi fellow CC owners. I am getting ready to replace some rigging on my boat and the first step will be un-stepping the mast. Since I am in San Diego, we don't pull the boat for the winter, and I have no experience with un-stepping the mast. I have a CC 36. I have access to a launching crane at San Diego Yacht Club, which is about 35 feet above the water at low tide. I am hoping some of the other members on this list can help me determine if it is worth trying to do this myself (with help) or whether I should just take the boat to a yard and pay them $200 to un-step (and another $200 to re-step) thanks Dave Folsom Rebel Maid 1981 CC 36 San Diego ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Near-shore tide what to expect. Need some Guidance
Agreed But July is nice. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 6, 2014, at 6:41 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Whoa, Dwight. Lighten up. I realize Curtis is less experienced than some others on the list. I’ve already suggested he take a Power Squadron course or two to increase his knowledge, and others have suggested he sign on to help with a few offshore and/or ICW deliveries to gain experience. I personally think he could learn a lot, quickly, by crewing on someone else’s boat in local races – nothing teaches you about sail trim or boat handling as fast as the focus that comes in racing. But he’s only going to get experience if he gets away from the dock. I got mine in Lake Michigan, the Chesapeake, and Delaware Bay. And I did some stupid things, but I learned. Every one of us has some “I could have died last night” moments that we’ve learned from. I’m sure you started somewhere, too. As far as boat problems go: Heck, He’s only going to be seaward of the channel buoys for about 13 nm – call it 3 or 4 hours. What makes you think his 30 is any worse condition or less capable than Alianna to handle a short trip near shore? If the steering breaks he’ll need to do what I did and use sail trim to steer the boat home, or just call Seatow. Engine or electrical problems – heck it’s a sailboat. If a seacock starts leaking close it, or put a wooden plug in it. Sure, when you go out on your boat you could die. You could get hit with the boom and die. The boat could sink and you die. You could get hit by another boat and die. You can get seasick and feel like you’re going to die. You could be casually taking a leak, fall overboard, and die. Or you could avoid the risks, stay at home to sit on the couch watching TV, have an aneurism, and die. There are always risks; that’s part of what makes sailing a challenge – and fun. OK. I’ll get out of “Wally mode” now. Rick From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 5:07 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Near-shore tide what to expect. Need some Guidance Curtis What is your plan if you lose steering, say because of a broken cable, or worse if you lose the rudder altogether…what would you do if the prop got snagged in fishing gear…what if a through hull started to leak fast or your engine exhaust pipes broke and water started to flood the engine compartment or if you lost all electrical power. Have you taken a safety of life at sea course lately? Dwight Veinot Alianna CC 35 MKII Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 5:23 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: I have a newly installed engine in the boat. I installed it my self. Its a 2gm20F Runs like a top. it was no easy task, I learned a lot through the process. I don't want to do it ever a gain. However it gave me a classroom environment to learn the systems on my boat like none other. Almost no sailor on my docks has the skill to clean water out no there fuel system. to challenge them to do maintenance on there boat is quite sad. I'm keenly aware of the safety of the systems on my boat, from swedge fittings to keel bolt tension, to extra belts filters, I even keep an extra injector. I know the boat is able and ready. Now me you may have some reason for concern. I have not done an overnight before. This will be my first. I'm 45 to 90 days out. I have to learn some ware. I have been sailing the waters of Port Royal sound and St Helena sound the Morgan river to the north and the Broad rivet to the south. and Again there will be a capable sailor on board. He has been instructed to let me do it!!! http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2013-10-30T10:46:00-07:00max-results=3start=3by-date=false On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 4:11 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: I will have a capable sailor with me But i will insist right up till point of peril to do it singled handed including the leg work and learning as with all these questions. my wind is most always out of the south so I will steam out with the out going tide under flat conditions I get 6 knots at 2500 rpm's with a clean bottom. I would hope to have the afternoon winds at my back. the southerly breezes are most always out of the south. if that's the case I will be on the way back in at the last of the turnaround of the tide. So my outgoing tide will just starting to go back out. That may allow me to put my boat right-into her birth. I nose into my birth and the outgoing tide is on my nose giving me steering. Thanks Curtis On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:52 PM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Curtis Count on taking more time…averaging about 6 in a CC 30 may be wishful…are you steaming all the way or sailing…Hope your motor is reliable and
Re: Stus-List Near-shore tide what to expect. Need some Guidance
I'm sorry, I still vote for July. It's not temperature, it's time to plan things properly. As you say, you're close to land most of the time. Then you go on to talk about backup GPS, communications, etc. Your priorities are wrong. Why not take a month or two longer and learn about current charts, navigation, backup systems and most importantly - learn to reef in your sleep (if you haven't already). If you follow your 5 year plan you will most certainly be reefing in your sleep at some point. BTW - if you're planning on cruising in 2 years - THERE IS NO SEATOW John You're picking a challenging area. Sent from my iPad On Jan 6, 2014, at 8:16 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: What would anybody do? I would first cry out OH GOD OH GOD Then I would calm my self. I have a cable driven edson Wheel. I also have an emergency fitting in the cockpit floor were a tiller can be attached. I have the emergency tiller in the forward birth. If I lost the rudder I would heave too and call sea-tow with my GPS location. If I lost an exhaxh hose I would Shut down the engine turn off the seacock, Heave too and call sea-tow. If I Lost power I have a hand held VHF and a cell phone. I would follow a magnetic course west until I had sight of land then Heave too and fire a flair or two. Lets face it 14 miles out or 3 1/2 hours out 3 1/2 hours back and 14 miles up the river. Almost 48 miles of the trip will be in sight of land.7 hours off shore. I have not taken a safety at sea course? But that I would love to find local if you know of a place in the Savannah -HHI- Beaufort or Charleston area I would like to take one. For sure. Thanks Curtis On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 5:06 PM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Curtis What is your plan if you lose steering, say because of a broken cable, or worse if you lose the rudder altogether…what would you do if the prop got snagged in fishing gear…what if a through hull started to leak fast or your engine exhaust pipes broke and water started to flood the engine compartment or if you lost all electrical power. Have you taken a safety of life at sea course lately? Dwight Veinot Alianna CC 35 MKII Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 5:23 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: I have a newly installed engine in the boat. I installed it my self. Its a 2gm20F Runs like a top. it was no easy task, I learned a lot through the process. I don't want to do it ever a gain. However it gave me a classroom environment to learn the systems on my boat like none other. Almost no sailor on my docks has the skill to clean water out no there fuel system. to challenge them to do maintenance on there boat is quite sad. I'm keenly aware of the safety of the systems on my boat, from swedge fittings to keel bolt tension, to extra belts filters, I even keep an extra injector. I know the boat is able and ready. Now me you may have some reason for concern. I have not done an overnight before. This will be my first. I'm 45 to 90 days out. I have to learn some ware. I have been sailing the waters of Port Royal sound and St Helena sound the Morgan river to the north and the Broad rivet to the south. and Again there will be a capable sailor on board. He has been instructed to let me do it!!! http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2013-10-30T10:46:00-07:00max-results=3start=3by-date=false On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 4:11 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: I will have a capable sailor with me But i will insist right up till point of peril to do it singled handed including the leg work and learning as with all these questions. my wind is most always out of the south so I will steam out with the out going tide under flat conditions I get 6 knots at 2500 rpm's with a clean bottom. I would hope to have the afternoon winds at my back. the southerly breezes are most always out of the south. if that's the case I will be on the way back in at the last of the turnaround of the tide. So my outgoing tide will just starting to go back out. That may allow me to put my boat right-into her birth. I nose into my birth and the outgoing tide is on my nose giving me steering. Thanks Curtis On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 3:52 PM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Curtis Count on taking more time…averaging about 6 in a CC 30 may be wishful…are you steaming all the way or sailing…Hope your motor is reliable and strong…if you get your first big trip figured out that good before hand I would say you have a career ahead in sailing…will this be alone or with crew Dwight Veinot Alianna CC 35 MKII Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 2:22 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: So I'm as some of you know in the process of moving to the next step in my training. I'm in the planing stages of my first
Re: Stus-List Mooring or Slip for 2014 season
Summer traffic, anything north of NYC? GSP? Are you planning on living on the boat for the summer? Seriously, unless you plan on traveling at very off hours I would rule out anything beyond the city. Having lived in both Baltimore and Long Island my personal preference is for the sound over the bay. For everything else I'd move back to MD in a heartbeat. There are tons of spots on both shores of the sound that would give you everything you want. Just don't know how you'll get there. On the other hand, driving south through DE is no picnic either. Got a helicopter? Small world, my parents used to live in Mays Landing. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 5, 2014, at 8:06 AM, Chris Price iceboa...@comcast.net wrote: Chuck, I'm partial, but I'd suggest anywhere from Annapolis, West River area on the Western shore to St. Michaels on the Eastern Shore and north from there. I like the Magothy River since I can have a good daysail or race in the Magothy or sail over to Rock Hall, Baltimore's Inner Harbor, Annapolis or many spots on the Eastern Shore with an easy day sail for an overnight. The choices are almost endless. When I ask my wife where she'd like to sail to for the weekend, her answer is always anywhere off the wind. Not that I pay any attention, of course, but we can pretty much do that. Of course, Absecon or Great Egg Inlets are a couple days away, too! Chris Price Pradel 35 MK I From: Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net To: cnc-list CNC boat owners cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cc-3436 cc-3...@googlegroups.com Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2014 12:13:06 AM Subject: Stus-List Mooring or Slip for 2014 season Hi listers, I'm looking to find a different mooring or slip for 2014 and hope East Coast listers can make recommendations. Looking to stay between 3 to 5 hours from home, Mays Landing, NJ so somewhere between Washington DC and Mystic Conn. Hoping to race singlehanded or doublehanded a few times. Boat draws 6' 3. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Atlantic City, NJ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 'My team talks Bluetooth headsets
We just use the $30 walkie talkies from radio shack. Not perfect as they're not handheld but better than nothing. Used hand signals for years but the dodger always gets in the way. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 5, 2014, at 6:36 PM, Tom B t...@sv-alera.com wrote: We use these when anchoring...have not tried them yet when docking. But they do take the edge off communicating by eliminating the need for me to yell at my Wife. http://www.eartec.com/ Tom B S/V Alera On Jan 5, 2014, at 2:34 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Message: 12 Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2014 17:15:27 -0500 From: Liz Mather mistralv22...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List 'My team talks Bluetooth headsets Message-ID: 87a563d0-259f-4c10-8725-35bb5aea2...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii Looking for input and suggestions regarding these and other wireless headsets for communicating while docking, sailing. These are quite unique but also quite expensive...$179.00 ea. Any input or personal choice and experience appreciated. Best Regards Mistral V CC 35-1 Liz Mather Harbour West ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Edd's bikini request
It's going to be tough and I doubt you'll get a ton of shade. If memory serves the 37+ Is much like the 34+ with its long low boom. Similar story on our 121. All we could fit was a single panel (2 bow). Still, a little shade is better than no shade. Of course, if you're talking bikinis you probably don't want more than 2 bows anyway. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2014, at 1:41 PM, Tom B t...@sv-alera.com wrote: Dude...You do NOT want to see me in a bikini! Tom Buscaglia The Game Attorney PC 888-848-GLAW Skype - thombusc On Jan 4, 2014, at 10:09 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Message: 4 Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 13:01:51 -0500 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Bimini Mounting Message-ID: df150e40-fae5-4625-9466-0cb45e3d0...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, I know this is a long shot, but do any of the 37+ owners on here have bikinis and, if so, do you have any photos as to how it?s mounted? I took mine off the Enterprise when I bought her in 2005 and am looking to put it on again. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Edd's bikini request
Do you still have the canvas for it? If so, just take it down to the boat and it will quickly become apparent. Most likely mounted off the stern pulpit with straps somewhere forward. If you're going down this road you may as well do it right. Add a few bars aft to the transom for support (double as handholds boarding) and some solar panel mounts (eliminate straps leading forward). Yep, a response with no bikini reference. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2014, at 2:41 PM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Sheesh… A Mac auto-correct and everyone has a field day….. I remember back in the 90’s whenever I typed “Clinton” it auto-corrected to “Klingon.” And yes, Tom, we’d ALL like to see a pic of you in a bikini. Might even go viral. Yes — I dug the frame out of my father’s garage after its 8.5-year hibernation and it was two bars. I just can’t remember how it was mounted, especially since the backstay is between them. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log On Jan 4, 2014, at 2:01 PM, j...@svpaws.net wrote: It's going to be tough and I doubt you'll get a ton of shade. If memory serves the 37+ Is much like the 34+ with its long low boom. Similar story on our 121. All we could fit was a single panel (2 bow). Still, a little shade is better than no shade. Of course, if you're talking bikinis you probably don't want more than 2 bows anyway. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 4, 2014, at 1:41 PM, Tom B t...@sv-alera.com wrote: Dude...You do NOT want to see me in a bikini! Tom Buscaglia The Game Attorney PC 888-848-GLAW Skype - thombusc On Jan 4, 2014, at 10:09 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Message: 4 Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2014 13:01:51 -0500 From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List CC 37+ Bimini Mounting Message-ID: df150e40-fae5-4625-9466-0cb45e3d0...@schillay.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Listers, I know this is a long shot, but do any of the 37+ owners on here have bikinis and, if so, do you have any photos as to how it?s mounted? I took mine off the Enterprise when I bought her in 2005 and am looking to put it on again. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Line - Yale ULS vs staset
Thanks for the tip on the sale at APS. Does anyone have experience with Yale's ULS? I was working up my order for tried and true staset but there is a significant difference in price from the Yale product. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 1, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Happy New Year all! APS has 25% of all line and rigging in January. Joel -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List 8 degree on Long Island - Victory!
So when we bought Paws earlier this year she was infested with ants. By the end of the season we had them on the run but not completely eradicated. Now it's 8 degrees outside and the boat is on the hard. Normal people are complaining about the weather. I'm just smiling and thinking - got the little bastards. John Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Move to J/42 versus new CC's of similar size and function
For what it's worth, when we bought our 121 this year, it came down to a newer CC vs. several J's. For how we sail now - weekends, short cruises, etc the CC was the right choice. I'm not sure if it would be my choice for extended cruising (which I have done). If you know and like the J, I suspect your decision is already made. You could do far worse. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 2, 2014, at 1:31 PM, Dave Godwin dave.god...@me.com wrote: I want to reply to Colin and to Ken Heaton for good suggestions and a very nice offer. As far as looking at the later (not Jackett designed and built models) CC’s, those are very attractive suggestions but I think that both my wife and I are headed in a different direction. We've discovered over the years that with just the two of us, dragging a big 140% jib across the deck isn’t our idea of pleasant anymore. And the way that we sail is pretty much me soloing with my wife happily knitting in the cockpit under the dodger. She assists with the tacking, line handling and is very good about getting me a cold beer if needed. The allure of the J/42 for both of us is that I can have my “dance space” in the aft end of the cockpit and still control the jib and more importantly, the main. I’m not fond of reaching up under the dodger to adjust the main sheet and traveler sheets when needed. And I tend to trim sails constantly. So one of the “selling” points for us of the J/42 is the large main and smaller (sort of…) jib size. We’ve swallowed that point hook, line and sinker. Whether it’s true is another matter but it seems logical to us. And a carbon fiber mast! Gotta have one of those. ;-) Another reason that I’m probably not looking at another CC is going forward I’d like to avoid boats with liners. I’m not saying that liners are bad or cheap but I’m just getting back to a complete refit and painting (halted for the last 4 years…) of “Ronin” and having the liner to deal with has been a bit of a PITA. It made re-wring the boat a much bigger task for a job that is time-consuming in any case. Modifications involving cabinetry and fiberglassing become somewhat more involved. Access is an issue. Which brings me to the Colin’s offer to meet the owners of Ceol Mor. I would love to but that may have to wait Interestingly, I’d linked to their blog and had been following it. Local Annapolis sailers! Anyway, all our talk about moving to a J/42 is a 3-year plan and is completely off the table until I get the refit of “Ronin” done. That’s looking like at least another year. And honestly, when I’m done we plan on sailing the hell out her, ‘cause, well, she is a great boat! Cheers, Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay On Jan 2, 2014, at 12:37 PM, Colin Kilgour charliekilo...@gmail.com wrote: Some cruising friends of mine just completed a circumnavigation in a J/42 - with husband, wife and 2 kids aboard. Check out their blog to get a sense of how Ceol Mor handled it. And if you want, I can put you in touch with them directly if you want to really pick their brain on the boat. They are super nice folks and would know a heluva lot more about the J/42 than any of us do. http://www.svceolmor.com/SVCeolMor/Welcome.html Cheers, Colin ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Reefing the main
I would think certainly fine for a 1st reef Maybe a traditional 2 line system for the 2nd? John Sent from my iPad On Jan 2, 2014, at 7:13 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: David, If the cunningham blocks are robust enough, this shouldn’t be an issue. You may want to upsize the snapshackle block if there is any doubt. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va image001.png From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2014 2:38 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Subject: Stus-List Reefing the main I have three reef points on my main, and I want to set things up to make it easier to reef when the weather turns nasty (a fairly frequent occurrence here). I have two reefing lines led to the cockpit from the leech so that part is easy to do with the autopilot on. I am thinking to set things up so that I don’t have to leave the cockpit any more often than necessary and so the luff is the trickier one. What I played with last summer was attaching the Cunningham to the reefing ring on the sail with a block on a snap shackle. It acted as a Cunningham normally, but when I needed to reef, I could just pull down the Cunningham instead of hooking the ring on the boom horns. This would mimic a double line reefing system without having to rig an extra line. If I needed a second reef, I could move the snap shackle/blockt to the next reefing ring quickly. Anyone see a reason for not doing this? I can’t see that the cunningham and reef line can’t be dual purpose. My concern is whether you can get enough tension on the Cunniingham to get the luff tight when you crank on the halyard without putting too much force on the blocks that the Cunningham runs through on the deck. Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT image002.png ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa
Gotta go with most others on this one - they're fixing the sail less your deductible. Sounds like they are holding up their end of the bargain. Lots of insurance companies out there. I'm sure someone will write the coverage you want (no deductible, replacement value, etc) - at a price. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 27, 2013, at 11:39 PM, Peter Fell prf...@gmail.com wrote: So a couple weeks before Christmas, a windstorm of 40 – 50 km/hr ripped apart my 130 genoa overnight. It stayed furled on the boat but the top caught the wind and peeled it down, ripping 3 panels across the leech / UV cover, breaking the leech line, etc. No damage to the furler though ... I had that checked out by a rigger. Local loft says $500 to fix the sail but the “designed shape has been compromised and repairs will not bring the sail back to pre damage condition”. That’s the loft manager’s wording verbatim. So far insurance underwriter has responded back to the adjuster that they are willing only to ‘repair’ the sail, with the net result of me spending another $250 (deductible) on essentially a ruined sail. The adjuster is going to try again with a different approach. I’ll hear back in the new year on that. I’m not obviously happy with this, considering, although the sail is 10+ years old, it was in pretty good condition (sailcloth and shape-wise) ... so much so that it was deemed worth it to have $500 of re-stitching, new UV cover, leach line, etc. done just over a year ago! Policy coverage is for depreciated value on sails and they will only cover “reasonable cost of repairs actually incurred” for partial losses. Seems like pretty crappy coverage given what they consider ‘reasonable’ repairs. I think my loft manager needs to be a bit more descriptive in their wording as well. A new sail has been quoted from the loft at $2,500. Of course adding a new sail won’t allow me to increase the insured value of my boat either ... since it would not be a new equipment addition to the boat ... just a replacement. A little loophole I discovered earlier this fall when I asked about this regarding my newly rebuilt engine ... since it is not a new addition and most of the cost was in labour and replacing existing parts ... no value increase was deemed possible. OK, I’ve finished my rant! Anyone have any suggestions? Peter Fell Sidney, BC 1979 CC 27 MkIII ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Has Mexico jumped the shark - NOW importance of HIN
Depending on age of boat their may be a second hin somewhere on the boat. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 28, 2013, at 5:30 AM, Alex Giannelia a...@airsensing.com wrote: One of my takeaways from the Mexico story is that you need a visible HIN. About 2 or 3 owners ago, the transom underwent serious rebuild repairs and the HIN was covered up. I'm wondering now, if I ever take the boat out of Canadian waters, if that could contribute to a documentation problem. BTW, in our business, we had a contract about 5 years ago to map the 15 biggest cities in Mexico and once the civil air permits had been issued (took 2 months) no problems with authorities whilst in the country. So my heart goes out to the owners affected, but I think it will all get resolved, just don't try to push the rope. Alex Giannelia CC 35-II 1974 to be renamed after re-launch TORONTO, Ontario a...@airsensing.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Wind Storm Damaged Genoa
Forgot to mention on my earlier response - sorry for your bad luck. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 28, 2013, at 8:13 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Try getting more quotes for a new sail. I paid less than that for a 135 on my 35/3 from Rolly Tasker. I would not repair a 10 year old sail. Joel On Friday, December 27, 2013, Peter Fell wrote: So a couple weeks before Christmas, a windstorm of 40 – 50 km/hr ripped apart my 130 genoa overnight. It stayed furled on the boat but the top caught the wind and peeled it down, ripping 3 panels across the leech / UV cover, breaking the leech line, etc. No damage to the furler though ... I had that checked out by a rigger. Local loft says $500 to fix the sail but the “designed shape has been compromised and repairs will not bring the sail back to pre damage condition”. That’s the loft manager’s wording verbatim. So far insurance underwriter has responded back to the adjuster that they are willing only to ‘repair’ the sail, with the net result of me spending another $250 (deductible) on essentially a ruined sail. The adjuster is going to try again with a different approach. I’ll hear back in the new year on that. I’m not obviously happy with this, considering, although the sail is 10+ years old, it was in pretty good condition (sailcloth and shape-wise) ... so much so that it was deemed worth it to have $500 of re-stitching, new UV cover, leach line, etc. done just over a year ago! Policy coverage is for depreciated value on sails and they will only cover “reasonable cost of repairs actually incurred” for partial losses. Seems like pretty crappy coverage given what they consider ‘reasonable’ repairs. I think my loft manager needs to be a bit more descriptive in their wording as well. A new sail has been quoted from the loft at $2,500. Of course adding a new sail won’t allow me to increase the insured value of my boat either ... since it would not be a new equipment addition to the boat ... just a replacement. A little loophole I discovered earlier this fall when I asked about this regarding my newly rebuilt engine ... since it is not a new addition and most of the cost was in labour and replacing existing parts ... no value increase was deemed possible. OK, I’ve finished my rant! Anyone have any suggestions? Peter Fell Sidney, BC 1979 CC 27 MkIII -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List PFD/life vest
I always wear a vest - it's one of the few good habits I have. For coastal during the day, I wouldn't worry about the harness as they just add bulk. Find the lightest certified vest you can - the cheaper ones are frequently lighter. It won't keep you on board, will provide some flotation until someone (hopefully) picks you up and sets a good example for younger folk. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 28, 2013, at 12:05 AM, M Bod drbod...@accesswave.ca wrote: Apparently I've got a few $ coming for Xmas gift to address (a small bit of) my new boat needs. I thought it would be prudent to get a couple of comfortable inflatable life vests. Given my sailing over the last 2 yrs has all been in the Halifax harbor and never in inclement weather, I've never felt a need to wear a vest. I'm hoping to stretch a little further with the new boat, and therefore the thinking that a life vest might be useful. Given I've never worn one I'm a complete newb! Any suggestions? Should I bump up to a harness version just to have it if needed? I don't do a lot of solo sailing - but I do a lot of sailing with 4 kids on the boat who would be extremely hard pressed to come back for me if I was bobbing in the water off the stern! What about automatic vs manual? Preferred brand? I'm guessing you get what you pay for, and I realize that an uncomfortable vest is unlikely to get worn, and therefore be worthless, but I'm also not expecting to head out into heavy conditions. I could just go with my current PFD if things turn a bit hairy. But seems my mom likes the idea of keeping my head above water! So what do you pick? between a $100 Mustang vest, a $130 PLASTIMO inflatable vest/harness or a $2-400 Mustang/Spinlock vest/harness. Not planning to spend $400 - more the $100-150 range. Last - are the auto inflators easily maintained? Or am I buying $35-65 kits every yr to keep vest functional? Thanks in advance for the advice. Mark ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List PFD/life vest
Really good point in this one - just remarkable how quickly you can loose site of a person in the water. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 28, 2013, at 1:39 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: The PFDs I have for the Admiral and myself are Sospenders auto inflate offshore vests with a built in harness. Always worn when single handed at night or when in heavy weather, sometimes worn when single handing in daylight depending on the weather. For guests I have a couple of coastal auto inflate and a couple of manual inflate PFDs, none with harness. I figure I'll be on the boat to get back to them and my main concern is keeping them afloat. I'm pretty sure the regular crew (my 50 pound Walker Hound, Chance) would take a while to get the boat back to me if I fell over (that is, provided that my head could even be seen from more than 50 yards away). So I usually have a tether attached when wearing the PFD. The Spinlock tether is the best I've yet seen - and I have 6 or 8 tethers from 3 or 4 manufacturers on the boat. I guess you need to ask yourself if you ever want to think Boy the boat sure looks pretty. As you watch the autopilot sail it towards the horizon and you tread water. As far as maintenance goes, I replace the bobbins in the auto inflation mechanism every couple of years, though I think annual replacement is recommended. Last batch I bought cost a buck or two each, and I keep a small stash double sealed in plastic bags to keep out the humidity. I also have a rearming kit (with the CO2 cartridge and a bobbin) or an appropriate CO2 cartridge for each type of PFD on board. Maintenance is no biggy. Rick Brass Washington, NC -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of M Bod Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2013 12:06 AM To: CC list Subject: Stus-List PFD/life vest Apparently I've got a few $ coming for Xmas gift to address (a small bit of) my new boat needs. I thought it would be prudent to get a couple of comfortable inflatable life vests. Given my sailing over the last 2 yrs has all been in the Halifax harbor and never in inclement weather, I've never felt a need to wear a vest. I'm hoping to stretch a little further with the new boat, and therefore the thinking that a life vest might be useful. Given I've never worn one I'm a complete newb! Any suggestions? Should I bump up to a harness version just to have it if needed? I don't do a lot of solo sailing - but I do a lot of sailing with 4 kids on the boat who would be extremely hard pressed to come back for me if I was bobbing in the water off the stern! What about automatic vs manual? Preferred brand? I'm guessing you get what you pay for, and I realize that an uncomfortable vest is unlikely to get worn, and therefore be worthless, but I'm also not expecting to head out into heavy conditions. I could just go with my current PFD if things turn a bit hairy. But seems my mom likes the idea of keeping my head above water! So what do you pick? between a $100 Mustang vest, a $130 PLASTIMO inflatable vest/harness or a $2-400 Mustang/Spinlock vest/harness. Not planning to spend $400 - more the $100-150 range. Last - are the auto inflators easily maintained? Or am I buying $35-65 kits every yr to keep vest functional? Thanks in advance for the advice. Mark ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 39 rudder port problem
Not to give you an additional headache but are you sure the rudder is original to the boat? I'm sure the list will correct me if need be but high aspect rudders weren't exactly common in 1971. Are you or do you know the original owners? John Sent from my iPad On Dec 23, 2013, at 4:56 PM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: The only Hole in the rudder shaft housing I can think of is the grease fitting that in the forward left quadrant close to the bottom, which, if you were standing in the cockpit looking forward, would be about 10:00 . I have no idea why they put a fitting that needed to be attended to in a place where only a snake could reach it. I have never squeezed any grease onto the shaft because I can’t see what I am doing and I don’t want a leak either. I would guess they drilled a hole in the fiberglass and tapped it, or just screwed the grease fitting in sans threads, don’t know. But, I wouldn’t mess with it while it was in the water. I measured my shaft diameter at that ‘bearing’ point, and it was polished and only a half a thousandth shy and still snug, so, I figured good enough. Bill Coleman CC 39 image001.gif From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of James DeFelice Sent: December-21-13 14:53 To: C and C List Subject: Stus-List CC 39 rudder port problem I am new to the mailing list and I am not sure of all the protocalls. I have a '71 CC 39 (Windquest) and the rudder port is leaking and there is a bit of play where the rudder post enters the hull. Are there drawings available of the rudder port? Has anyone had one apart. The boat is unique among '39s in that it has a partial skeg and high aspect ratio rudder rather than the typical shark fin. Any help would be much appreciated. Jim ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 - off center hatch
Hard to believe that someone who just spent a king's ransom buying a company might not see the humor in a comment on their first boat. Some people... John Sent from my iPad On Dec 22, 2013, at 10:56 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: This message cannot be displayed because of the way it is formatted. Ask the sender to send it again using a different format or email program. te ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 30 - off center hatch
Wal - I was agreeing with you John Sent from my iPad On Dec 22, 2013, at 12:54 PM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: Oh well... Two things: you wrote: Hard to believe that someone who just spent a king's ransom buying a company might not see the humor in a comment on their first boat. Actually, if I were in his shoes my sense of humor might have some constraints right now. A false rumor can spread like wildfire (see www.sailinganarchy.com.) Speaking of which, about ten years ago some twit who owned a 1/4 share of a Melges 24 sailed on my boat, and then announced on sailing anarchy that my boat sailed like a pig. Ten years later, if I ever see that twit again I'll spit in his face. So, everyone has a different touchy area where jokes are concerned. Heck, in these days of instant global internet communications, even a tough truth can wreck you: a) I wonder how many Columbia 32's have sold since the rudder fell off of 'Uncontrollable Urge.' http://www.nbclosangeles.com/news/local/LA-1-Killed-as-Sailboat-Smashed-on-Rocks-in-Race-196686001.html b) And of course, there's the Tartan laminate failure: http://my.boatus.com/consumer/pdf/2009-01-DefectAndItsAftermath.pdf which I believe occurred shortly after the CC brand was purchased by Fairport. So, yeah, if I had pledged my life, fortune and sacred honor to a new business venture, I'd be pretty darn touchy about anyone who said anything negative. anyway... Second, your email contained this attachment: Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: This message cannot be displayed because of the way it is formatted. Ask the sender to send it again using a different format or email program. te Ummm, I'm pretty sure my emails are sent in plain text. I'll check the settings, in case they were changed during a recent upgrade. I use Mozilla Thunderbird for email. I like to send and receive plain text, since it's faster over a slow internet connection, and prevents me from having to download an imbedded 2GB picture of somebody's new dog, cat, girlfriend, boat, baby, etc. Wal -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List St60 stuff
So in the spirit of Christmas I've got two boxes of stuff for St60 instruments that I've collected over the past 10 years or so. All of it is new and unused. New boat has all BG. Free to good home for shipping cost or in exchange for BG parts... Priority goes to folks who will pick up on Long Island (NY) St60 speed transducer w/cable, also plug, nut rubber washer St60 depth transducer w/cable - missing nut, no washer Various instrument head foam gaskets (gaskets only, sorry, no free... ) Various cables (nothing fancy) Masthead vane service kit - missing cups, just the tail piece And the big item - a brand new full masthead vane unit with all parts and cable (would ask for a donation to a charity to be named privately). You will need your own male mast mount. Of course, if you want to pay me for them that's fine too, I just have no patience for eBay anymore. 10% additional charge if your boat is named Enterprise. No guarantees any of it works (but is should) John Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 2:44 PM, Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com wrote: Dave, The area where my tranducers are installed (under the v-berth, aft of the holding tank) is not cored. I found that the area under the galley sink is also not cored (where the sink drains are), but that's no good to you for a transducer. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 9:02 AM, David Jacobs davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote: Joel, Is there any place on a 35 MK III, near the centerline that isn’t cored and might be a good location for a in hull sensor? Dave Saltaire ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List St60 stuff
So it looks like Rich was the first responder. Will let everyone know if it doesn't work out. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 4:22 PM, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: Pleaee I cold realy use that stuff. Curtis McDaniel 46 Bostick Cir Beaufort, SC. 29902' I can send you a check or cash. Thanks a lot. On 12/20/13, j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net wrote: So in the spirit of Christmas I've got two boxes of stuff for St60 instruments that I've collected over the past 10 years or so. All of it is new and unused. New boat has all BG. Free to good home for shipping cost or in exchange for BG parts... Priority goes to folks who will pick up on Long Island (NY) St60 speed transducer w/cable, also plug, nut rubber washer St60 depth transducer w/cable - missing nut, no washer Various instrument head foam gaskets (gaskets only, sorry, no free... ) Various cables (nothing fancy) Masthead vane service kit - missing cups, just the tail piece And the big item - a brand new full masthead vane unit with all parts and cable (would ask for a donation to a charity to be named privately). You will need your own male mast mount. Of course, if you want to pay me for them that's fine too, I just have no patience for eBay anymore. 10% additional charge if your boat is named Enterprise. No guarantees any of it works (but is should) John Sent from my iPad On Dec 20, 2013, at 2:44 PM, Tim Goodyear timg...@gmail.com wrote: Dave, The area where my tranducers are installed (under the v-berth, aft of the holding tank) is not cored. I found that the area under the galley sink is also not cored (where the sink drains are), but that's no good to you for a transducer. Tim Mojito CC 35-3 Branford, CT On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 9:02 AM, David Jacobs davidjaco...@comcast.net wrote: Joel, Is there any place on a 35 MK III, near the centerline that isn’t cored and might be a good location for a in hull sensor? Dave Saltaire ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Refrigeration for a CC 30-2
I still think the little portable coolers with built in compressors are the most efficient things around. Many folks on this list have gone with much more involved projects and will almost certainly have good advice. Insulation is the key. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 15, 2013, at 5:11 PM, allen allenmi...@earthlink.net wrote: I had difficulty getting block ice on my trips around the NC sounds. Now that we're finally ready to cruise the Chesapeake, I'm strongly considering adding refrigeration. Our ice box kept block ice solid for days and cubes usable til the bar closed, so I am fairly certain our insulation was pretty good, but then that performance was sailing in the cooler water of LI Sound and points east. Any recommendations from sailors in the Chesapeake would be appreciated' Allen Miles S/V Septima 30-2 Hampton, VA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Canadians - retail sales tax used boat
Sounds like they would get along great with the government of the great commonwealth of Virginia. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 3, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Hi All. I bought the 32 two years ago, literally two years ago. I just got a letter from the ministry of finance asking for 13% of the purchase price. Do they expect me to hold onto that money for two years? is there no kind of right to a speedy trial clause except instead of trial something like right to a speedy robbery. ? I don't duck out of paying my fair share, I don't circumvent the rules but the government already collected sales tax on this boat! 33 years ago! So they make me wait two years and now they want payment within 60 days or …. If this information is not received within 60 days of the mailing date, an estimated assessment with interest compounded DAILY at the current rate from the date of purchase, may be issued yeah, that sounds reasonable Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Canadians - retail sales tax used boat
Can I remind everyone that taxes are the price we pay for a civilized society. Oh wait, we're talking about Canada. Never mind. Sorry - couldn't resist. John Sent from my iPad On Dec 3, 2013, at 6:38 PM, Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca wrote: Fred: exactly! No whining!! Rich On Dec 3, 2013, at 18:51, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.net wrote: Steve — it’s probably not much consolation, but isn’t the sales tax charged on the sales transaction, not on the item being sold? I know that when you buy a used car here in Minnesota, every time the car changes hands there’s sales tax involved. The state gets its due… sigh Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Dec 3, 2013, at 4:19 PM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: The boat was bought and sold in Canada, through a broker. The broker handled the transfer of the license. It's a 33 year old boat. I'm seriously asking how this is justified, I'm sure there is some justification (not sure that it'll be logical), but hey .. I'de like to know. The government collects sales tax on the same thing multiple times? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
That's an interesting idea. Do you know if they get hot? John Sent from my iPad On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:19 AM, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, I’m going a different route than doing a leather cover. This year, I’m sending my wheel to ColorWheelz (http://www.colorwheelz.com). Been herring a lot of good things about it, especially that it doesn’t absorb water (keeping my hands and sailing gloves dry). Best wishes to all for a joyous holiday, along with a happy and healthy (and breezy) new year. All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:03 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: My girlfriend did this as a winter project last year. I think ours was from sailrite, not sure, it came with the boat and was not installed. My autohelm is the 4000, I think .. anyway, you just need an allen key to undo the fasteners that hold the wheel pilot to the wheel. Once that's off, remove the main nut from the wheel axle(?) then slide the wheel back. You may need to use some force to slide the wheel off of the axle. I banged on mine as I pulled on it .. wrong move, I put some dents in the centre emblem cap .. edson sent a replacement free of charge but I have yet to install it, not really sure how. If you're going to help get the wheel off with any tapping or hammering, use a rubber mallet and maybe a piece of leather or something. Don't pull on the wheel, pull on the spokes close to the centre to minimize any bending forces. Watch the video at the bottom of this page: http://www.sailrite.com/Leather-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Kit#.UpX7P2RgbsE Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Tim Sippel tim.sip...@rci.rogers.com wrote: I went to Tandy leather and bought a doeskin hide (think it was about 80 bucks at the time ) , did at least 7 wheels with it .. cut it punch it sew it on .. An Edson kit for a 48 wheel was astronomical $$$ Tim Toronto -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 8:51 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit. Have bought several items from them. Covering the wheel is not difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go with foam under it. A great winter project. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy firewa...@reinardy.us wrote: One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the wheel on Firewater. The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of the season around here. This raises a few questions of people who might have done it before. First, does anyone have experience with boatleather.com or other suppliers? BoatLeather seems to have a lock on the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives. Recommendations are welcome. Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive mounted on the wheel. Can someone give me the steps required there? Thanks in advance! Jim Reinardy CC 30-2 Firewater Milwaukee, WI P.S. Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago that he thought was sold but is back on the market. Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com This e-mail (and attachment(s)) is confidential, proprietary, may be subject to copyright and legal privilege and no related rights are waived. If you are not the intended recipient or its agent, any review, dissemination, distribution or copying of this e-mail or any of its content is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. All messages may be monitored as permitted by applicable law and regulations and our policies to protect our business. E-mails are not secure and you are deemed to have accepted any risk if you communicate with us by e-mail. If received in error, please notify us immediately and delete the e-mail (and any attachments) from any computer or any storage medium without printing a copy. Ce courriel (ainsi que ses pièces jointes) est confidentiel, exclusif, et peut faire l’objet de droit d’auteur et de privilège juridique; aucun droit connexe n’est exclu. Si vous n’êtes pas le destinataire visé ou son représentant, toute étude
Re: Stus-List Wheel Wraps
Can't help on removing the wheel but boat leather is a good outfit. Have bought several items from them. Covering the wheel is not difficult but takes some force to keep it tight, especially if you go with foam under it. A great winter project. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 26, 2013, at 8:44 PM, Jim Reinardy firewa...@reinardy.us wrote: One of my planned winter projects this year is a leather wrap for the wheel on Firewater. The bare stainless gets a bit cold on both ends of the season around here. This raises a few questions of people who might have done it before. First, does anyone have experience with boatleather.com or other suppliers? BoatLeather seems to have a lock on the market, I have had trouble finding many alternatives. Recommendations are welcome. Second, I would prefer to do this with the wheel off, but don't know what is required to take the wheel off with an Autohelm 3000 drive mounted on the wheel. Can someone give me the steps required there? Thanks in advance! Jim Reinardy CC 30-2 Firewater Milwaukee, WI P.S. Thanks for all the advice for my boat shopping friend, he is still mulling things over and also looking at a Dehler 34 in Chicago that he thought was sold but is back on the market. Sent from my iPad ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bermuda race
I might be able to help out with the first aid kit. We pretty much moved the ditch bag intact into storage so hopefully everything is still in good order. Can easily get it down to Baltimore for you but you'll need to pick up from there. Let me know if there are any other things you need. We probably have most of it in storage. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 25, 2013, at 4:25 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Aaron, Thanks so much!! I'll let you know in the Spring. Where do you keep Maggie? I'm on South River. Joel On Mon, Nov 25, 2013 at 4:01 PM, Aaron Rouhi admiralmag...@outlook.com wrote: I can help with flares if your other source didn't work out. Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 CC 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2013 12:25:37 -0500 From: joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bermuda race As most of you know, I'll be doing the Annapolis to Bermuda race next June with a crew of mostly CC owners whom I've met right here. There are two pricey items I am hoping to borrow from someone on the list (Obviously I'll pay shipping): Offshore medical kit and SOLAS flares. I have a line on the flares locally, but I'd like to have a back up. Please let me know if you have either and would be willing to lend to the cause. Joel 35/3 The Office Annapolis 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List New web site
For those who are really bored - finally got around to setting up the basics of the new web site. Mostly 121 specific but links to the site from our last Carib. Cruise. Svpaws.net John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Redford's movie....
That's actually a nice trip. Jump off from Charleston and avoid the nightmare of the ICW. Pick the right window. Fwiw, I love the Bahamas - friendly people and the cleanest water anywhere remotely close to North America. Great trip, and that in a 7'+ draft boat. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 21, 2013, at 1:26 PM, Dave Godwin dave.god...@me.com wrote: Yeah, a bit confusing. Actually, she loves the boat. So long as it never leaves the Chesapeake Bay. She’s done a few Bay to Newport RI and back deliveries on larger boats plus a Delmarva circumnavigation on our boat. These days when I mention that I’m planning on taking the boat to the Bahamas her response is “have a nice time, call when you arrive and let me know where the nearest airport is.” Cheers, Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin On Nov 21, 2013, at 1:20 PM, coltrek colt...@verizon.net wrote: That's a happy face. Does that mean she's never sailing again, or she is going to encourage you to sail more by yourself? (take out a policy on you. . .) Wild Bill Original message From: Dave Godwin dave.god...@me.com Date: 11/21/2013 12:20 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Redford's movie My wife and I saw it last night. And yes, like many of you I squirmed at the timing of repairs, the methods, the strange priority of responding to problems and so on. I was muttering the entire movie. But my wife had a little different take on things. Since it seemed to be pretty clear from the opening of the movie that he was a bit of wreck in real life it might stand to reason that what you saw in his responses to problems may have been how he approached many of his problems in life and maybe why he was out there alone. I thought this line of reasoning had some merit. And yeah, it’s Hollywood so... My wife did reconsider the whole boat thing though. :-) Cheers, Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin On Nov 21, 2013, at 11:01 AM, Bill Coleman colt...@verizon.net wrote: The bashing could go on for days, weeks, or until morale improves. I suggest looking at the string on Sailing Anarchy, they pretty much have it covered. It was disappointing tho , all the little things, it could have been so much better with very little effort. Just things like actually being concerned that you boat is filling with water and stuffing a vest in the hole, bailing with buckets, or tacking so as to not sail with a hole under water, etc - But most of us sailors are an overly critical bunch, and non-sailors probably won’t notice most of that stuff. Bill Coleman CC 39 image001.gif From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 10:49 AM To: LKL Architects Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Redford's movie I saw it last weekend; and agree that it’s an acting tour de force for Redford. Still, no PFD ever?! And he clips his harness on to the lifelines?! I’m not sure they had a decent marine/sailing consultant on the film; or maybe they ignored him/her… I’m posting this to the list for further bashing. :^) — Fred Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:40 AM, LKL Architects lklarchite...@gmail.com wrote: Good morningFred just curious if you have see All Is Lost ? I saw it last nightand kinda surprised comments about it have not hit the list. Even the novice that I am saw many flawsbut then again...it is hollywoodand it is a moviebut did confirm one thing.S_ _ T happens okall for now... Lloyd ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Redford's movie....
There's another side? On Nov 21, 2013, at 4:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Perhaps the cleanest water on your side of North America...:) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Redford's movie....
I gotta get a new map. I thought Japan came right after the Delaware river John Sent from my iPad On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:28 PM, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: and then there's the third coast... Dennis C. From: j...@svpaws.net j...@svpaws.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2013 8:22 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Redford's movie There's another side? On Nov 21, 2013, at 4:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Perhaps the cleanest water on your side of North America...:) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List floorboards
I'm only guessing here but When I tried to take up the floor on my 121 I was surprised to find that Tartan had put a line of caulk on every beam. It made taking the floor up a disaster as the silicone acted as an adhesive. On the other hand, I don't recall ever hearing the floorboards squeak. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 9, 2013, at 11:12 AM, Brad Crawford bcrawf7...@comcast.net wrote: On the subject of floorboards, do others have squeaky, creaky floorboards like we do? Have you found a cure for it? Thanks, Brad CnC 36 Seattle From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of wwadjo...@aol.com Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards Thanks to all for the responses. Confirmed many of my thoughts and concerns. Bill Walker C n C 36 Pentwater, Mi. Sent from my HTC - Reply message - From: Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List floorboards Date: Fri, Nov 8, 2013 9:26 AM Bill: +++1 on the lining up the pattern .your eye notices the slightest mismatch and remember that you will be looking down at it every time you enter the boat. When we did the floors on my 38MKII last year, it took 2 4x8 panels and the panels were matched as well end to end. My floor has several openings (keel sump, mast plate, opening in front of the head door, and a small one about half way back from the keel opening. These are mainly for getting to the keel bolts, but you should address the raw edge of the plywood when you cut those openings. We cut the openings wider to accommodate a ¼ teak strip, the same thickness of the floor and epoxied that strip to the inside edges of the openings. Mitered corners make for a nice finish. On the 38, the outside edges in the area of the stairway and the starboard lockers up front have a tapered edge due to the hull shape sliding down into the floor area. That was a chore to carefully taper the back side of the floor to match the slope of the hull. The end result was very nice and professional looking .I suppose that you could cut flush sides at the edge of the slope but on my boat that would narrow the floor and expose white fiberglass .we decided not to do that so we finished it as above. TAKE YOUR TIME .. Final suggestion, . Finishing the top surface Epoxy the underside is a must ..the edges as well .we used a product from Awlgrip which was a hard clear coat for the top surface over a sealer that was sanded smooth. It has to be sprayed, and hanging the panels upside down prevents dust from settling on the finish . Two or three coats of that stuff produced a beautiful finish and it is harder than epoxy and varnish I never expect to have to finish or treat it again. It also survives dropped wrenches, etc. without denting the surface .. A great project TAKE YOUR TIME and watch the temperature and humidity for best results with epoxy or other finish. Good Luck, Ron C. _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin Sent: Friday, November 08, 2013 6:48 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List floorboards Bill, this is exactly how I did my floorboards years ago with help from a buddy who worked in a boatbuilders woodshop. Unfortunately I will be doing it again this winter ++1 on lining up the pattern. Take your time. Dave 1982 CC 37 - Ronin On Nov 8, 2013, at 5:49 AM, Graham Collins cnclistforw...@hotmail.com wrote: Hi Bill Rough cut the new material with an allowance of say 3/8 all around, then using the original screw holes in the old floorboards screw the old boards to the new and use a trimming bit in a router (straight bit with bearing of the same diameter) to trim. No clamps required, and you use the same screw holes to install the new boards. +1 on the suggestion to ensure you line up the holly carefully from panel to panel, I did not do this and it bugs me... but not enough for a do-over! Graham Collins Secret Plans CC 35-III #11 On 2013-11-07 10:26 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wrote: I am planning to remake floorboards this winter. I have old ones for pattern. Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone has for patterning, cutting, finishing. Plan to epoxy all sides, then varnish. Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach with double sided tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting bit in router to cut. Thoughts welcome. Bill Walker 36 Pentwater, Mi Sent from my HTC - Reply message - From: sam.c.sal...@gmail.com To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality !!!!
Well, I agree with the sentiment if not the content. Sabre...priced one of them lately. Actually... Yes (although they are no longer making sailboats). In fact I sold a 386 to return to CC, albeit of the Tartan vintage. I don't regret the decision for a minute. I believe there are several list lurkers that might surprise you. I very much liked the exterior of the redline 41 and were it not for my 121 which I am in love with I would likely be giving them a call. The interior needs to be reworked but I believe he mentioned other designs. I wish them well. Like many on this list I just think they are fighting an uphill battle with the 30. They may well prove me the idiot I am and end up selling thousands of boats. I hope they do. If I had a choice, I would prefer to see a return to what Tartan did originally with the 110/121 - a really good performance cruiser. Of course, if I was in the majority Tartan never would have sold the band. As I recall, the comment in 1999 was that the boat needed a CC logo on the shower door to prove it was a CC. Nope, not a lot of love from the Niagara crowd. So yes, we probably all should be a bit more open minded. In a few years, we may well find a few generation next CC's on this list. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 7, 2013, at 7:22 PM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote: To the group... Just some thoughts to bring the conversation down to today's reality check.. I would advance that most of the listers in this group who own CC boats actually own boats older than 1990...Maybe a few in the early 90's. virtually none of us own anything that competes with new models of racer cruiser boats today. I own one of the Bruckman CC's built in 1977. It's a 38MKIIC and was built as a custom boat for someone in Chicago to race in the Mac races.. I have completely refinished her to better than new condition and we race her weekly in the local PHRF series. That makes her over 46 years old and I wouldn't give her up for any amount. And yes, I would love to see those lines continued in to the future, it's a great boat, but the reality is that you can't make a current business on those older boat's designs I admire Will's courage and intent on keeping the marque but really, not one of us is a potential customer of the new boats of any brand in today's market at today's new boat prices...Incidentally, most of us are too old to think about making that kind of investment in a new 30' or 40' boat. I'm sure that Will gets it, he needs to create a boat that sells into today's active sailor market, and that ain't many of us by comparison. Today's cruising/ racing families are choosing between newer designs and trying to compete with the J 105 .which I can't even touch given my generous handicap. We all purchased our boats at a different time and place in our lives.those choices are still great ones, but given the disposable income of many newer sailboat types, I applaud Will and his group for giving it a try.. Sort of like the new Cris Craft power boats...they are still being made, but not in the old style and function. The market is smaller than it was for either type of boat and a new venture needs to pick a segment that contains enough potential customers so it can survive What each of us needs to do is sail for a day on one of the late model Jeauneau's, Beneteau's or for the purist's out there a new Sabre...priced one of them lately. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality !!!!
Well the logo really isn't bad Didn't mean to offend. I do recall sailing in New York back in 2000 on my 34+. My wife and I thought we were pretty hot shi...stuff as any boat under 45' was fair game for us. Along came a friend in his brand new 121 named Lady Hawk. They were doing a shoot for the brochure. What didn't make the brochure (thankfully) was that boat smoking our 34 like we have never been beaten before. Yep, it wasn't hard to talk me into a 121 13 years later. I suspect I will have the same experience should I ever run into the new breed. Better start saving now! John Sent from my iPad On Nov 7, 2013, at 8:02 PM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote: John: Thanks, I get it...but they don't have to sell thousands of boats..(Average price will be in the $250K+ range, in my opinion. They do have to build a slick fast competitive boat that any potential J105 or J109 buyer would change his mind for.. In my mind, this is a price to market issuehell, if I were to win the lottery, the first call I'd make is to the new CC guys...and we'd be off and running; new logo and all. Best, Ron -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2013 7:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Current CC History; now a Dose of reality Well, I agree with the sentiment if not the content. Sabre...priced one of them lately. Actually... Yes (although they are no longer making sailboats). In fact I sold a 386 to return to CC, albeit of the Tartan vintage. I don't regret the decision for a minute. I believe there are several list lurkers that might surprise you. I very much liked the exterior of the redline 41 and were it not for my 121 which I am in love with I would likely be giving them a call. The interior needs to be reworked but I believe he mentioned other designs. I wish them well. Like many on this list I just think they are fighting an uphill battle with the 30. They may well prove me the idiot I am and end up selling thousands of boats. I hope they do. If I had a choice, I would prefer to see a return to what Tartan did originally with the 110/121 - a really good performance cruiser. Of course, if I was in the majority Tartan never would have sold the band. As I recall, the comment in 1999 was that the boat needed a CC logo on the shower door to prove it was a CC. Nope, not a lot of love from the Niagara crowd. So yes, we probably all should be a bit more open minded. In a few years, we may well find a few generation next CC's on this list. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 7, 2013, at 7:22 PM, Ron Casciato rjcasci...@comcast.net wrote: To the group... Just some thoughts to bring the conversation down to today's reality check.. I would advance that most of the listers in this group who own CC boats actually own boats older than 1990...Maybe a few in the early 90's. virtually none of us own anything that competes with new models of racer cruiser boats today. I own one of the Bruckman CC's built in 1977. It's a 38MKIIC and was built as a custom boat for someone in Chicago to race in the Mac races.. I have completely refinished her to better than new condition and we race her weekly in the local PHRF series. That makes her over 46 years old and I wouldn't give her up for any amount. And yes, I would love to see those lines continued in to the future, it's a great boat, but the reality is that you can't make a current business on those older boat's designs I admire Will's courage and intent on keeping the marque but really, not one of us is a potential customer of the new boats of any brand in today's market at today's new boat prices...Incidentally, most of us are too old to think about making that kind of investment in a new 30' or 40' boat. I'm sure that Will gets it, he needs to create a boat that sells into today's active sailor market, and that ain't many of us by comparison. Today's cruising/ racing families are choosing between newer designs and trying to compete with the J 105 .which I can't even touch given my generous handicap. We all purchased our boats at a different time and place in our lives.those choices are still great ones, but given the disposable income of many newer sailboat types, I applaud Will and his group for giving it a try.. Sort of like the new Cris Craft power boats...they are still being made, but not in the old style and function. The market is smaller than it was for either type of boat and a new venture needs to pick a segment that contains enough potential customers so it can survive What each of us needs to do is sail for a day on one of the late model Jeauneau's, Beneteau's
Re: Stus-List Current CC History
I really hope I'm wrong, but I fear they are on the wrong path. IMHO, the magic of CC was a true dual purpose well built boat. I don't see that in either of the current designs. There, now they'll go on to sell thousands of boats! John Sent from my iPad On Nov 6, 2013, at 5:39 PM, Monty Schumpert jmschump...@verizon.net wrote: Great article, Stu! Thanks, Monty Schumpert Scandia CC 34+ Annapolis, MD Sent from my iPad On Nov 6, 2013, at 4:53 PM, Stu s...@cncphotoalbum.com wrote: Here is a good read – it’s on the new CC Website: http://c-cyachts.com/new/about-cc/history/ Stu ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Getting young people into sailing?
So is the focus on young people in particular or sailing in general? I suspect there are more sailors today than ever before. Our proportion to power boaters may continue to decline but total number of sailors is likely up. As to young people we may not see them as they are involved in sailing timeshare clubs, junior sailing programs at the local elitist club (frequently sailing during the day when we are at work), camps, crewing for racers, bareboat chartering or college sailing programs. Anything but ownership. There is no doubt that the cost of boat ownership has increased significantly from when I bought my first boat in the early 80's. They've gotten bigger and more complex. Everyone's first boat used to be 22'. Even so, I doubt that 1980 O'Day, Catalina Hunter combined could match the production capacity of today's Beneteau in South Carolina. Also, new members at our club tend to be in their late 30's to early 40's. We are having no trouble keeping a full membership list. No coincidence that that age correlates to when a lot of people first start to have a few spare dollars. Just an opinion John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fuel consumption
Can't help on fuel consumption and you would probably do this anyway but Make sure you have a jerry jug or two of spare fuel. Keep at least one as emergency reserve - can't emphasize enough the importance of having a few gallons of CLEAN fuel available. I entered Bermuda with hoses running to/from a jerry jug. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 3, 2013, at 1:39 AM, Rodrigo Lequerica rodrigo.lequer...@yahoo.com wrote: Good morning. I am Planning to travel to Cartagena in Colombia from miami, 1400 miles stopping at Grand Caiman. First inter oceanic travel, any tips / brainstorm referring SPECIFICALLY to a Cc 33 ? This one is a 1986. Does anybody could share about fuel consumption / rpm / knots experience for Yanmar 2GM20F used in this 33' with a two blades propeller? Diameter? Have a nice day ! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List water level in head/bowl
On the water issue it sounds like the joker valve is failing - included in the basic rebuild kit. The water is coming from what was left in the hoses. Wouldn't worry about the thru hulls. No idea on the vent - perhaps disconnect and run a smaller length of hose through it? John Sent from my iPad On Nov 3, 2013, at 9:08 AM, David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com wrote: I have noticed that the water level in the bowl of my head tends to increase over time. It is not close to overfilling, but when I get to the boat is is several inches higher than when I left the boat and after pumping it out, over the course of a day on the water, it is higher at the end than the beginning even when not used. The through hull valves are all closed and the pump valve is in the tank/closed position. I can’t see how the throughhulls could be leaking so the only thing I can imagine is fluid leaking from the holding tank back into the bowl. The holding tank is under the sink on this boat and so the fluid level is well above the level of the bowl. Probably unrelated, but when I had the tank pumped yesterday ( the new free pumpout boats in our area are fantastic!!), the pumper told me the vent tube was likely plugged because he got vacuum on the pumping system. What is the easiest/best way to clean out that tube? Thanks- Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Pole Sizing
If racing in a competitive fleet someone may object. Else, just go with it and enjoy a great find. John Sent from my iPad On Nov 3, 2013, at 9:39 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com wrote: Hello All, I got lucky at my marina's flee market this summer and found a nice spinnaker for a 100 bucks that's almost perfect for my boat. For some reason a prior owner disposed of the spinnaker pole / car and I am in the process of sourcing those. Not wanting to pay 1,600 - 1,800 for a custom new pole I found a used one that might work. I need some help to determine my course of actions: My boat is a 1990 34+ (Also known as a 34/36) My J measurement is 14.83 feet and the pole I found measures 15.7 feet. Can I just use it as is? I don't know the implications but it seems to me that the pole sticking out 11 inches past the forestay would not be a problem. If not I suppose I could cut it and refit the end? If I cut it, hoe much would I take out? I might end-up buying new end fittings anyway just sot start with something fresh.. At 350.00 asking price the pole looks like a good deal. Thanks in advance, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Beneteau list on a newer CC - ugh
So in a near empty boat, my CC 121 (40') has a pretty significant list to starboard. The basic tanks are nicely placed to balance each other with the exception of the holding tank which is pretty far to starboard. I assume that would be offset by loading in the galley (port). The prior owner did add a large inverter (about 50 lbs) and two additional batteries (150 lbs) both pretty far outboard. So before I go nuts moving batteries or installing weights, is the list really caused by the additional 200lbs outboard or is this more likely the keel? Any thoughts? John ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Pole Sizing
I would have guessed boric acid but I am no chemist John Sent from my iPad On Nov 3, 2013, at 8:16 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Chemically knowledgeable...I'm not going there. Salt Away is available at most chandleries, although some may have to order it. West stocks it most places. http://www.saltawayproducts.com/index.htm I use it every year to run through my dinghy motor prior to winter storage. It really does work, whatever is in there. On 3 November 2013 17:08, Dennis C. capt...@yahoo.com wrote: Joel, I think the primary ingredient of SaltAway is sulfamic acid. You can buy a gallon of dilute sulfamic acid a a big box home improvement store for about $6. Perhaps one of the more chemically knowledgeable listers can tell us if that's a smart move. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Sunday, November 3, 2013 4:58 PM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Jim What is Salt Away? Who sells it? Joel On Sunday, November 3, 2013, Jim Watts wrote: David, my spin pole ends were seized when I got the boat; one responded to fresh water and PB, the other didn't. I drilled the rivets out of the sticky one and removed it from the pole, then soaked it in a Salt Away solution for a couple of weeks. After that, I gently tapped at the stuck pin with a hammer and wooden dowel of the right size, eventually got it to move a bit, and that's all it took. More Salt Away, more PB, more controlled violence, and it came free. I drilled out the end fitting to clean all the hardened salt out and the pin works freely. I tapped the end fitting and reattached it with machine screws. Now I flush it with fresh water a lot and spray it with McLube occasionally to keep it happy. On 3 November 2013 12:46, David Blair dblair...@gmail.com wrote: I have a 34/36 and the pole that came with it measures 14’7” from “mouth to mouth”(ie: where the line would sit when rigged). I presume it is OEM. It was never used (by me or the PO) so now the fittings are seized and so far have not responded to PB Blaster and other measures. Latest suggestion is remove the ends and throw them in a bucket of diesel for a month or so, but have not got around to that yet. If anyone wants a pole or has suggestions let me know. Tx From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2013 6:40 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Spinnaker Pole Sizing Hello All, I got lucky at my marina's flee market this summer and found a nice spinnaker for a 100 bucks that's almost perfect for my boat. For some reason a prior owner disposed of the spinnaker pole / car and I am in the process of sourcing those. Not wanting to pay 1,600 - 1,800 for a custom new pole I found a used one that might work. I need some help to determine my course of actions: My boat is a 1990 34+ (Also known as a 34/36) My J measurement is 14.83 feet and the pole I found measures 15.7 feet. Can I just use it as is? I don't know the implications but it seems to me that the pole sticking out 11 inches past the forestay would not be a problem. If not I suppose I could cut it and refit the end? If I cut it, hoe much would I take out? I might end-up buying new end fittings anyway just sot start with something fresh.. At 350.00 asking price the pole looks like a good deal. Thanks in advance, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, Georgia ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
