Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-12-16 Thread JoeMuc2009


philippe_44 wrote: 
> Hi Joe - I missed the original question but  why not replacing them by
> same original electrolytics?

Paul Webster wrote: 
> I think it was because of this comment about them being fitted backwards
> https://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?117140-New-approach-to-dead-Boom-SB3-(Classic)-Transporter&p=1067012&viewfull=1#post1067012

Correct, it appears these capacitors are put in reverse polarity. This
happened during production, and the PCB silk screen is actually 
reversed, too. So if you properly adhere to the silk screen during the
capacitor replacement, you will actually repeat their mistake - which
has me worry quite a bit as I have done tons of these repairs withough
knowing.
The fact that these capacitors are the ones that lead the statistics
when it comes to leaked caps in the SB3 also confirms they have issues.
Using a bipolar cap instead means that there is still the capacity
demanded by the circuitry but the part won't suffer from reverse
polarity because that's something that cannot happen in a bipolar
capacitor.



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Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-12-16 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hey all,

just wanted to let you know that the bipolar electrolytics are doing a
great job. I have compared to an SB3 with regular capacitors, having
both play a 1kHz sine wave in sync, and there is no measurable
difference between them.
Unfortunately, I forgot to measure voltages across the capacitor pads
before actually putting the capacitors back in. Sorry about that. Will
do that with the next repair as the device that was under repair
recently is already going back to its owner.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-12-07 Thread JoeMuc2009

Glenn2 wrote: 
> Damn I typed a long reply and it disappeared. I would use an
> electrolytic but just fit the other way around. You can use a non-polar
> electrolytic if that makes you nervous. I wouldn't use a ceramic or
> tantalum.

I found your reply in the mail that was forwarded from the subscription
system:

Glenn2 wrote: 
> These are signal coupling capacitors, the analogue audio passes right
> through them. I would personally not use ceramic or tantalum for audio
> coupling. Also tantalums have been known to go short circuit when they
> fail which could put DC back into the DAC chip and kill it.
> 
> The best thing audio-wise is a film capacitor if you can find a 10uF one
> that fits, but that might be tricky, and may be overkill.
> Perhaps just stick with an electrolytic but fit them the other way
> around. If that makes you nervous use a non-polarised electrolytic.
> 
> It might be interesting, once all other caps are done, to power it up
> without these capacitors and test the voltages on each pad. It would be
> good to know for certain what the DC levels really are.

Thank you so much, this really helps. I think I'm going to go with a
bipolar electrolytic, incidentally I happend to find 10V/16µF in my
parts store, so why not. Will check if there is any effect on the audio
spectrum but I wouldn't expect a huge difference. Voltage measurements
without caps in place will also follow.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-12-04 Thread JoeMuc2009


Glenn2 wrote: 
> I managed to dig out an old thread, complete with contributions from me
> on the last page. :)
> 
> It is C16 and C20 apparently.
> 
> https://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?71914-SB3-volume-output-lower-on-left-than-right-channel

Here is something that confirms this theory, watch how the C16 and C20
places look. Both caps leaked (C16 a lot more than C20) whereas all
others at least didn't spill:

39305

So what is the recommendation here? Replace the caps with a bridge, a
ceramic capacitor, a tantalum...?


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|Filename: IMG_20221204_143318.jpg  |
|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39305|
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Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-12-02 Thread JoeMuc2009


Glenn2 wrote: 
> Absolutely.  Some voltage regulator circuits require that you use low
> ESR or ultra-low ESR capacitors, while some require that you DON'T. 
> Often you need a mixture of types.  Many linear regulators will
> oscillate if you stick an ultra-low ESR capacitor across their outputs. 
> Who knows what Logitech used originally and if they only used one type
> across the board.  Does anybody know the manufacturer and type of the
> capacitors?  And did Logitech change this when they took over.
> 
> My (Logitech) SB3 is still hanging on and in daily use.  For half of its
> life it's been plugged into a remote controlled mains socket, so that
> it's only powered up when I'm actively using it.  This should help
> preserve both the electrolytics and the VFD.
> 
> As a side note I did have to replace the caps in the audio section a few
> years ago when I realised that the analogue outputs didn't work anymore.
> That's was a bit OCD of me really as I don't even use them, I connect
> it to an external DAC!  The caps between the internal DAC chip and the
> op-amp were back-to-front but they did agree with the silk screen.  The
> op-amp input is biased to a higher voltage than the DAC output so the
> positive side of the caps should face the op-amp, which they didn't in
> my unit. Interestingly one of the caps between the op-amp and the RCA
> sockets was also open circuit yet those are not the wrong way around.  I
> replaced all 4 signal path capacitors and normal sound was restored.  It
> doesn't fill me with confidence about the state of all the other caps on
> the board, but any temptation to replace those whilst it is still
> working is receding fast after hearing these horror stories!

Logitech used Panasonic, and all Slimdevices SB3s I have seen (which are
quite a lot) also used them. Not sure about the series though, I have
found FC, FK, FP, FT, and HB, and it seems to vary a bit from lot to
lot. Certainly not the worst choice they could have made, still if they
are reversed that's a good explanation for their failure. I have not a
lot of knowledge around these things, which of the capacitors are
reversed in your opinion? I can say for sure that the silk screen has
been the same forever, and it could point towards a design fault that
the capacitors are reversed in the silk screen as well as in the
pick-and-place process.
Even if you are not using your DAC, the Xilinx chip is still talking to
it, and if the DAC power supply is unstable thanks to dead capacitors,
that will bring the entire system down and have it do a reboot. Hence,
no matter what output you are using, the DAC needs to be happy so things
are working out.
It certainly helps a lot to power the SB3 only when needed, as you say,
for the display as well as the capacitors. It's a bit less flexible but
should be a concern, now that we are thinking a lot more about our
consumption bills.



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Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-11-30 Thread JoeMuc2009
ys. I'm far from being an expert here.



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Re: [slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-11-30 Thread JoeMuc2009


alfista wrote: 
> Curious, what's the model number of the device?

You mean the programmer I'm using? That's a MiniPro TL866 (CS), a rather
cheap but really capable device, along with a stack of adaptors for
TSOP48 chips that I probably bought from AliExpress, and still it was
about 40 USD. The pins of the chip need to be squeaky clean in order for
it to work but it's easy to find out if a pin does not have good
contact. The chip ID can not be retrieved in that case. I had ideal
results in flooding the row of pins with tacky flux, then wiping over
the bottom of each pin from the inside out and frequently cleaning all
solder from the soldering iron tip. That leaves them shiny and
consistent.
Here's a photo of the setup:

39264 

Cheers,
Joe


+---+
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[slim] New approach to dead Boom / SB3 (Classic) / Transporter

2022-11-29 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi all,

just wanted to let you know that I had some interesting experiences
recently. It started with a shock when once again I had done SMD
capacitor replacement on multiple SB3s and the dropout rate was extreme.
Five separate devices, all would boot but crash and reboot once they
were commanded to start playback. Three of them "died" somewhere between
the moment I detached the CPU board to do the capacitor replacement and
the moment I put it back together to test. Three! They would do what
every dead SB3 does, show a very dim TOSLINK, no connectivity, no
display. And that despite the fact I hardly ever touched the CPU board
at all.
I still can't explain how it got to this three times in a row  (even
five times in a row earlier which had me  so depressed I would almost
quit). I wore a grounding wrist strap all the time. I discharged the
capacitors before replugging the CPU board. Used current limiting for
the first startup to ensure that a short won't blow anything up. Used an
IR camera to look for hotspots during powerup. So that was a bit
awkward. The devices were sent to me for repair and shortly after the
repair they would fail and be much worse than they initially were. One
of them had run a firmware update, then restarted and was normal for a
short period of time before it failed. Which brought me to an idea.
Just out of curiosity I extracted the Flash EEPROM from one of them and
put it in my reader. Compared to a known-working SB3 there were a lot of
differences, at least in the first blocks and, expectedly, where the
configuration is held. But I would not assume that the bootloader or
whatever is read first from the Flash is very different between
identical devices. So I attempted to flash the working image to the
EEPROM that was suspected corrupt, with erase first and eventual
verification of course to ensure that it isn't the chip itself that is
at fault. Then soldered the chip back in and, what do you know, two out
of three SB3s were recovered! A Boom PCB is under repair currently, I'll
try the same thing there as the hardware arrangement around the CPU is
similar to that of the SB3. It looks like what I used to call "CPU
death" actually isn't the CPU but the Flash memory for some reason. I
don't know why it happens. It should only be written to during
configuration and during firmware updates, but something during the
repair seems to cause a partial corruption. It's a pity that the EEPROM
needs to be desoldered and put back in place as this can only be done
once or twice before the board gets damaged. But it's way better than
attempting to reflow the CPU which I never succeeded at, and most of the
time it might not even be the component at fault. The EEPROM is not easy
to handle thanks to its 0.5mm (or so) pin pitch but way easier than the
BGA stuff under the CPU.
I have too little experience yet to document this or proclaim it as one
of the first measures to fix, and due to the complexity of the operation
it should rather be considered a last stand, but still. There is a lot
of new hope for the stack of failed SB3s and Booms I have around, and
I'll let you know how I fare with it.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2022-09-23 Thread JoeMuc2009


TiredLegs wrote: 
> This seems like as good a thread as any to ask my question:
> 
> If one of the displays in a Transporter dies, is it feasible to
> cannibalize the display from an SB3 to replace it? That is, can someone
> with reasonable soldering skills remove a functioning display and
> reinstall it in another device without killing it in the process?

Hi there,

well, you could extract a SB3 display and put it in place of a
Transporter's display, they are identical. But I would consider it a big
sacrifice too big to kill a working SB3 just for a display that is
probably not really fresh anyway. Even if SB3s are cheap on the used
market, their displays are far from beautiful in most cases.
For people in the U.S. there is a great alternative in buying a
brand-new front panel PCB from eBay seller *hotdogtec *here:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/362191359449
It's two new displays and no soldering required. As long as the supply
lasts that is the cheapest and fastest option.
I am offering the MN32032A display which is needed twice for a
Transporter for 78.00 EUR per piece plus shipping.
It is definitely recommended to change both displays at a time, only
replacing one of both will reveal heavy differences in brightness
between the old and the new one, no matter how little they have been
used.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Analog output on SB3 no longer seems to work - suggestions?

2022-04-13 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi all,

I would also recommend a Xilinx reset as described. On top of that, you
might want to try a factory reset by holding the "+" key instead of the
"1".
Missing analog sound can also come from settings. Even if that's quite
obvious, some people actually manage to set their SB's output volume to
zero by accident and never know it. There could also be server settings
that cause this.
Please check these, all are on default values in case of my screenshot,
but even if you find the same settings it might be worthwhile to play
around with them. I remember that in some cases this brought the sound
back.

37691

If you don't have a Logitech Media Server but use mysqueezebox.com
instead, you can find a lot of these settings on the website, too. Most
of these are not reachable through infrared commands though, so a
browser needs to be involved.
Bad electrolytics can cause sound output to fail but usually the device
stability fails first, i.e. whenever you try to play something, the SB
will crash sooner or later and reboot. So we might rather be dealing
with a software issue here.

Cheers,
Joe


+---+
|Filename: ksnip_20220413-105411.png|
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2022-03-18 Thread JoeMuc2009


Cipri wrote: 
> Hi Joe,do you have an extra display for Logitech Boom? Thank you

Sure, please drop me a PM with your e-mail address and location and I'll
send you an offer.
Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Who repairs Squeezebox Touch ?

2022-01-20 Thread JoeMuc2009


edwin2006 wrote: 
> Glad to see again Joe!hey there, Happy New Year to everyone! I was never gone 
> [emoji6]

Gesendet von meinem STK-LX1 mit Tapatalk



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Re: [slim] Who repairs Squeezebox Touch ?

2022-01-20 Thread JoeMuc2009

Sent you a PN, please look at your inbox.

0123fant wrote: 
> Hallo Freunde der SBT.
> Habe auch das Problem, dass bei der SBT ein falsches 12V Netzteil
> angesteckt wurde!!!
> Hab mich auf dem Mainboard soweit durch gemessen und mit einen noch
> funktionierenden SBT verglichen.
> Es sind auf jedem Fall die drei SMD Bausteine (Spannungsregler) 082C,
> 3VT09 und 3VE3V defekt.
> Hab diese Bezeichnung in keinem Datenbuch gefunden und auf der zweiten
> SBT stehen auch abweichende Bezeichnungen, also gehe ich davon aus, dass
> es sich um eine Werks- oder Produktionsbezeichnung handelt.
> Nach meinen Recherchen gibt es von Logitech keinen Schaltplan und auch
> keine Ersatzteilversorgung.
> Gibt es hier jemanden der sich auskennt oder/und schon mal eine solche
> Reparatur erfolgreich durchgeführt hat?
> Mir wurde gesagt das JoeMuc2009 Erfahrung hat!? ...vielleicht kannst du
> mir da helfen! 
> Danke und Grüße
> Christian



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Re: [slim] I think my SliMP3 just died

2021-09-03 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi there,

I just hooked up my SliMP3 to a lab power supply and stepped down the
voltage from 5V. Guess what, below ~4.6V audio  drops out  but otherwise
the device works (receives IR commands, display working properly, shows
playing progress, etc.). So it seems the DAC is the first to quit when
the input voltage gets too low whereas the rest of the device keeps
working. Stepping the voltage back up leads to heavy distortions first
until it recovers at ~4.65V. And it takes just 0.45A at this voltage so
its power consumption is only a bit more than 2.1 Watts which I find
pretty amazing.
It is typical for switching power supplies that they fail to keep up the
specified voltage sooner or later, depending on the load. Mostly this is
due to dying filter capacitors in the secondary stage of the power
supply. This does not happen all at once but is a slow but steady
process so the effective voltage delivered will ramp down very slowly
over time. Yours might just be in a state where the voltage is
sufficient for everything except the DAC.
So the PSU - once again - would by my prime suspect here. They are dirt
cheap (unless you want something really well-made) so I would recommend
to replace it. It's very likely this brings your SliMP3 back to full
glory.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] I think my SliMP3 just died

2021-07-10 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi there, and sorry for picking this up only now...
I agree with bpa that this is probably just the PSU that died. Please
try a new 5V/2A power supply first, it might resolve it all for good.



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2021-06-08 Thread JoeMuc2009


puppydaddy wrote: 
> I too have a SB Classic which has just seemed to die on me. It was
> working just fine until we had a power fluctuation and now it won't come
> on. After going over the blog post linked at the beginning of the
> thread, I can see that the red LED is flickering -- going on and off
> multiple times per second -- which is an indication that the SB is
> rebooting constantly. Thanks a lot for the very informative blog btw, so
> much better than just staring at the damn thing wondering what has
> happened to it. 
> 
> Is there anything I can do at this point to try and diagnose further
> without opening up the device? I'm considering buying another 5V/2A
> power supply but a bit unsure if I should be trying something else
> before jumping into that.

Hi there,

I would guess that trying a new power supply is a sensible first step.
They are the most frequent failure point and a power outage is often the
point where they no longer get to their feet because of the startup
stress that they haven't had in a long time of constantly being powered.
However, I cannot guarantee you that this is all you need to do. If the
SB3 still fails with the new PSU, it's likely that the situation is
similar inside it, i.e. capacitors needed for a clean startup and to
filter ripple are no longer able to do their job and cause the system to
be unstable or even unable to boot at all. Replacement of the internal
SMD capacitors is my step #2 in this situation usually.
I hate to give you more worries but eventually it could be CPU death
which is not recoverable no matter what. All we can do is hope that it's
only one or both of the other two options mentioned.
Let me know if you need more detail or advice. If you are inside EU, you
might consider sending me the unit to Germany for a full diagnosis (free
of charge). I'm in good training regarding the replacement of SMD
capacitors and testing power supplies. I could not cure CPU death but a
lot of other issues.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Help needed: Transporter no longer connects to Wi-Fi

2021-02-19 Thread JoeMuc2009


leadears wrote: 
> Probably not relevant but: my transporter can sometimes hang on
> "Connecting..." if it loses contact with LMS for some reason [1]. A hard
> reset is sometimes required to get it back, similarly if LMS has a
> different IP address assigned (sloppy on my part). I've also encountered
> infrequent wifi ' shenanigans' with hosts not being able to join the
> network, normally fixed by restarting the effected
> wifi/powerline/host(s), these are related to a known 'feature' of
> tp-link powerline adapters [2].
> 
> [1] A couple of times in 12 months
> [2] They can become DHCP servers

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
Well, the IP never changed, neither the router's nor the DHCP address
allocated for that specific Transporter. But you gave me the idea to
check back with my DHCP server (which is a Windows 2012 R2 Server
running my AD + DNS + DHCP services). Found two entries in there for the
same Transporter! No idea how that could happen but after cleaning up
both, the Transporter connected all fine, also over Wi-Fi, got the first
free address which is the same it used to have before, and that's the
end of the story.
Some more observations: despite the fact that I ended the personal Wi-Fi
hotspot on my smartphone hours ago, it would still list the SSID, along
with other SSIDs, the list again contained all but mine. It needed
another factory reset to actually refresh the SSID. After that, it no
longer contained by personal hotspot but showed my home SSID again.
Funny, seems to be some caching involved there, where it really
shouldn't be.
So I did not get to the point where I can determine whether the DHCP
server is used or not, but the firmware seems to analyze what can be
found on the net up to that point. And as the DHCP would not deliver
fully valid data, that might have caused the Transporter to hang around
for 30 seconds. Whatever, I would love to understand this better but
that would require Logitech to disclose more than they want to.

Anyway, consider this solved. I'll use the weekend to recover from the
shock :D thanks for your replies!
Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Help needed: Transporter no longer connects to Wi-Fi

2021-02-19 Thread JoeMuc2009


Thank you for the fast response. I forgot to mention that I checked a
new PSU already, to no avail.
I think once work is done for the week I will spend some time trying to
reflash the firmware, maybe something is out of order there.
Will keep y'all updated.



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[slim] Help needed: Transporter no longer connects to Wi-Fi

2021-02-19 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi everyone,

one of my two Transporters fails to connect to Wi-Fi since this morning,
out of nowhere. The four Booms and the other Transporter in the
apartment have no issues.

I did Xilinx and factory resets and checked multiple Wi-Fi cards from my
stock. Depending on the card, I either don't see my SSID at all, or it
takes very long, or is visible immediately. In cases where I can select
the SSID, I can also see the connection strength varies between 70 and
80%. I can enter the password (double-checked I entered it correctly)
but it never gets beyond the subsequent step "Connecting...". It times
out after 30 seconds. What would follow is usually the question whether
I want DHCP or a manual IP address. It never gets there.
An attempt to connect to a 2.4GHz Wi-Fi hotspot provided by my cellphone
failed as well.
Checked my router and it has no new restrictions or anything that might
explain this. The Transporter in question connects okay via wired
Ethernet, albeit with infrequent new trouble sometimes. In one of my
connection attempts, the entire device was super slow and display
animations were freeze-framed. In that state it did not react to any
user input, too. Like the CPU is running only on a fraction of its usual
speed. Another factory reset cured this for now but I'm in serious
doubts now.
Could be that I have one the models suffering from a dying CPU, and this
could be the start of it.

Anybody around  who recognizes any of this?

Thank you all! Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2021-01-20 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi there,

not really, sorry. I can only offer you to have a look if you send me
the unit in question (to Germany). But I cannot promise you that I will
find a solution for this matter. Could be that the CPU is dying (or
whatever it is that causes SB3s to die).
If you are interested, please send me a PN.

Cheers,
Johannes



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2021-01-10 Thread JoeMuc2009

Hi there,

sorry, better forget about that multimeter test. A lot of people fall
for this. If you measure the voltage of the unloaded PSU, you will
probably find that it delivers 5V as it should. But that does not mean
everything is all right. The problem is that a multimeter does not draw
any current.
To measure it correctly you have to apply an electronic load, and
measure the current in that specific situation. A configurable battery
tester such as I am demonstrating in my blog
(https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2018/11/logitech-slimdevices-squeezebox-classic.html,
approximately in the middle of the page) will create a defined amperage
and show you what voltage is delivered under this load. It should not
collapse below 4.8V at 2A. This can't be done by hooking up just a
multimeter.
As these power supplies are dirt cheap nowadays, I would recommend you
to just buy a new one. The original PSUs are practically all dead by now
after 10-12 years of constant service so this investment is probably not
in vain. Be careful about the polarity though, the inside connection is
positive and the outside sleeve must be negative. You can choose one for
more than 2 Ampères but be sure it's constant 5V DC and no other
voltage. The barrel jack is 5.5mm outside and (typically) 2.1mm inside
diameter. 2.35mm might also fit, I don't know about the 5.5/2.5mm
variant though.
You can find tons of more info on this matter in the blog page mentioned
above.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2020-12-22 Thread JoeMuc2009


Beast Of Bodmin wrote: 
> Yep. The fastest delivery option was something like USD 35. I can
> wait...

Yeah, it's likewise here. I could have sent you one but all shipping
services have reduced their products to premium which means 35 USD is
the new lowest limit for sending just anything except for pure paper
letters. Bummer!
Anyway, I hope this sorts things out for you, once you got it! :cool:



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2020-12-21 Thread JoeMuc2009


Beast Of Bodmin wrote: 
> Should be here by March 7th :)
Seriously? ;)



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2020-12-20 Thread JoeMuc2009


These Wi-Fi boards are harder to get. At eBay, I found two offerings
which are both from China. Might be problematic but I'm not sure.
This the link to one of them: https://ebay.us/PdmjPl
AR2413 is the chip that needs to be on the card because it's the only
one the Squeezebox firmware supports. It is also important that you use
the MiniPCI variant, avoid the ones for  MiniPCI-e / MiniPCI-x and/or
"half size". They are incompatible. There are only very few different
models with AR2413 and classic MiniPCI. Compared to the PC world,
MiniPCI is the analogy of PCI whereas MiniPCI-e or -x is for PCI-express
so it's more modern and electrically a different design. I think that
MiniPCI Wi-Fi boards may have been used in older notebooks, too. So it's
rather generic, not something specifically designed for Squeezeboxes.
I have only ever seen three different ones that fit. Sorry, could only
find two in my collection right now:

32590
32591

A peek under the hood reveals that the PCB layout is mostly identical in
both. Main differences are in the power supply sections. The blue one
features a useful silk screen whereas the green one seems to be from
Apple :rolleyes:

32592

A closeup of the chip in question:

32593

Which also sorts out the myth about AR2431 and AR2413. It's clearly
AR2413 as we can see here. I confused this myself in my blog and just
went and corrected it. Pity! But it really needs to pop the shields and
look closely.

I guess the stickers on the backof the cards are more helpful than what
is in the front-side silk screen for finding anything similar on the
market. I remember purchasing a pack of 10 of these blue cards for
around 20 EUR. But that was years ago.
For comparison, here is a MiniPCI-x half-length card that _won't_fit_
even if the chip used is the same:

32589

The size of these cards is only about 1/3 to 1/4 of the one we need, and
the card-edge connector is totally different.
If you can get a hold of the blue model, that's definitely the newer one
and a better design in my opinion. For instance, it does not need that
hefty voltage regulator that the old card has which spreads a lot of
heat, i.e. is wasting energy.

Hope this helped a bit. Please keep us informed how your story goes on.
Thanks! :D


+---+
|Filename: AR2413.jpg   |
|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32593|
+---+


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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2020-12-11 Thread JoeMuc2009


Result of March .. December 2020:

32496

And there's still more to be done.
Thank you all for sending your Squeezeboxes in for repair! :o

Stay safe, Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year to all of you.


+---+
|Filename: IMG_20201211_102757.jpg  |
|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32496|
+---+


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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2020-12-06 Thread JoeMuc2009


Tintifax wrote: 
> Thanks for the display, Johannes!
> It worked out great!

So good to see this, great job! :cool:



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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2020-04-30 Thread JoeMuc2009


chill wrote: 
> Hi Joe
> 
> I've read your blog posts on the main VFD replacement and the diode fix,
> and must say that they are very nicely written - clear, detailed, and
> well illustrated.  I have quite a collection of Booms and I expect to
> take on one or other of these jobs in the near future.
> 
> As a point of interest though, can you explain a detail that I don't
> quite understand?  You have explained that the variable voltage on the
> right side is intended as a way to control the display brightness, but
> you also say that it remains possible to vary the brightness even after
> your diode fix, which I understand creates a fixed voltage drop.  Do you
> know how the brightness remains variable even with this constant voltage
> drop?

Thanks for the praise! I'm happy it helped you.
Actually I can't explain what good that circuitry is as the brightness
control is just as good with the fix (and permanent voltage on the F2
lines) as it was without. The Noritake MN16032 display offers four
brightness levels for each pixel so actually this would be sufficient
already. And Logitech actually makes use of this which can be observed
if you have a visual effect such as the VU meters or spectrum analyzer
active. They will use some shading / brighter peak indicators in high
brightness levels whereas everything is the same brightness in lower
settings. The Squeezebox firmware offers "off" and five brightness
settings so they use the built-in display capabilities as well as
controlling the filament voltage. The latter won't work of course after
the fix was applied. I think the mode in which this should be most
apparent is the low brightness levels as this is when the grid voltage
differential is rather low. I have taken measurements in all brightness
settings, and this confirms the theory that a higher voltage
differential (i.e. less voltage on F2 while F1 is constantly at +5V)
causes higher brightness:

Level 5: 1.418 Volts 
Level 4: 1.414 Volts
Level 3: 1.413 Volts
Level 2: 2.513 Volts
Level 1: 2.511 Volts

You see that the F2 voltage at lower brightness levels goes up. If the
internal power supply circuitry is at fault, F2 goes up as high as +5V
also. The 3-diode fix will pull the F2 voltage down by approximately
2.1V to ~2.9V. This is still not as much of a voltage differential as in
the original but I did not observe any visual difference. Using fewer
diodes will cause the remaining diodes to become considerably warm which
will probably destroy them over time. Using more diodes will cause a
higher voltage drop, thus the filament to glow which is visually
disturbing and will also cause the filament to suffer.
Maybe it is a combination of the diodes and what remains from the
defective circuitry that keeps this working. Anyway, so far every fix
worked and nobody ever complained. We will never fully understand this
as long as Logitech keeps it all secret.



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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2020-04-23 Thread JoeMuc2009


newusername wrote: 
> A feedback a few months later: I changed the screen, everything working
> perfectly. Thanks Joe :)
> One minor remark regarding the article at
> https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2016/09/logitech-slimdevices-squeezebox-classic.html:
> 
> "All of the other 12 pins must not be shorted together."
> 2 of the pins (side by side) have actually the same potential, even on
> an
> unsoldered screen. And the next 2 have a low resistance (300 ohms on the
> new
> one, once soldered, 500 ohms on the old one).

Thanks for the feedback. Great job!
It's true, two GND pins in the 12-pin block  of the Noritake VFDs have
the same potential, so in this specific case it wouldn't hurt to short
them together, but as a rule of thumb I would always avoid that :)



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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2019-12-13 Thread JoeMuc2009


Looks like a line driver defect. It's not a typical issue though, these
displays are pretty solid. Anyway, in this case there is not much else
you can do but replace the display entirely.
I can supply displays, or even take care of the repair job, whichever
you prefer. I'm based in Germany and EU-wide shipping shouldn't be much
of a problem. Outside EU is a different story though...

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2019-11-29 Thread JoeMuc2009


axelis wrote: 
> Good evening, 
> just read this message posted couple of years ago; I have a boom with a
> screen more and more difficult to read; have read that you have had
> spare screens from the original manufacturer.
> Would you still have one for sell? 
> If yes, I'd be interested , living in France.
> 
> thanks to share conditions, if this would still be available, 
> thanks 
> regards
> Alex

Just sent you a PM :)



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Re: [slim] Growing mass of failing SB3 (Classic)

2019-10-16 Thread JoeMuc2009


edwin2006 wrote: 
> What to say :(
> It's a pity that the sb3's have to end this way. Are you willing to do a
> sb3's repair without any guaranty that they last? Just to find the why
> they fail?
> I guess there would be enough people who would send you a defective sb3
> just for study.

Well, I need to cover my back here. I can accept SB3 repairs but only if
liability is explicitly excluded, i.e. if I break the SB3, it's a pity
but I can't replace any more SB3 CPU boards as I have only just a few
SB3 units in stock and each time this defect happens, I have to gut
another one. It's just so sad. So before sending your SB3 off to me,
better say your goodbyes because it's possible, not to say likely, that
it will not get fixed but get worse in condition. It's out of my
control. Therefore, I think it doesn't make sense if you send me an SB3
where the TOSLINK LED is already dim and the power supply was ruled out
as the culprit. This is the state that six of my SB3 boards are in right
now. I won't find out the reason, probably nobody ever will unless
Logitech discloses the technical documentation.:confused:
Philippe_44 (see post above) will take care of the defective boards in
attempting a CPU replacement; we are in pretty close contact about this
lately. Let's see how that turns out. If good, he may be the go-to
address in such cases, much rather than me.

So yeah, that's the state of things. I'll update you as soon as I know
more.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Growing mass of failing SB3 (Classic)

2019-10-16 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi all,

sadly, I need to give up SB3 repairs. After five SB3s failed in sequence
during or after the capacitor renewal procedure (which succeeded many
times before), I can no longer offer this type of service. This happened
despite all measures of care like ESD protection, capacitor discharge
before soldering, removing the CPU board before starting work on the
capacitors, etc.
So I will keep my hands off the SB3 caps, apparently there is something
I don't understand about this matter, and all experience isn't helping.
I can still offer the display replacement, however, with no warranty of
any sort. If you send me an SB3 with a darkened shadowy display, it is
not unlikely that the repair ends in a full defect. Until now, I used to
extract a working CPU board from one of my own SB3s to get other
people's units back working but I'm now running out of stock and
motivation. This way, I spend more money on a repair than I can ever
earn from it. It just doesn't make sense this way.
I'm really hoping that one day somebody discovers what makes the SB3
fail. Until then, a lot of SB3s are at a dead end.

Boom display and speaker repairs are still possible, of course, even
though the risk of suddenly dying affects the Boom as well. It's just
not happened to me yet.

Hope for your understanding.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Growing mass of failing SB3 (Classic)

2019-09-18 Thread JoeMuc2009


Thumbs up, Philippe! Thank you for adding to the support



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[slim] Growing mass of failing SB3 (Classic)

2019-09-18 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi all,

as there is no specific forum for the Squeezebox Classic (SB3) or its
predecessors for whatever reason, I'll discuss matters here.
During the last weeks, I received more e-mails than ever about failing
or failed SB3 models. It's like a lot of them fail simultaneously,
however, not all for the same reasons.
If your SB3 has issues, please check out this blog post:

https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2018/11/logitech-slimdevices-squeezebox-classic.html

It's still a work in progress but a lot of troubleshooting information
can be found in there.
In my recent experience, the power supply is failure reason #1. Which is
good because owners can replace the PSU themselves and see if this fixes
the issue(s). Just be careful to use one that has +5V/2A rating and a
connector that fits the SB3 power supply jack properly.
Failure reason #2 is more complicated to fix, it's the SMD capacitors,
mainly the ones surrounding the DAC, and also in the power supply
section on the opposite side of the board. This requires removing the
old capacitors (Mr. Carlson's Lab has a good method, looks brutal but
works best: https://youtu.be/X8N9O3a9jiM), and soldering in new ones
which is tricky due to space limitations and very limited access to the
soldering pads once the capacitor is where it belongs. This can't be
done with cheap equipment and requires some exercise, too.

I am located in *Germany* so EU-wide service is possible at reasonable
shipping rates. Anything beyond EU limits is probably beyond reason
regarding the shipping cost.

HOWEVER: there's failure reason #3 - what I used to call -sudden death
syndrome- (also described in the blog post referenced above) - and it's
recently happened to me during a repair, so I need to announce that the
SB3s you send to me might be beyond recovery, even though they were
intact when you sent them off. This is a Damocles Sword that I can no
longer account for. There is no help from Logitech about this so, to my
knowledge, nobody knows what is wrong with these units and how to
prevent it from happening, or how to repair the ones affected.
When I receive a unit that is still capable of booting, and it dies
during my repair, I'm of course responsible for restoring or replacing
it. This means I will lose between 60 and 80 EUR, depending on what used
working units cost nowadays, and it will leave me with a pile of
garbage. As much as I love repairing these things and keeping them
going, this is an investment that I cannot afford. Probably none of you
will readily accept to pay this amount on top of the normal repair
either. 

So this is just to clarify that my repair capabilities are limited, and
dying SB3s are currently nothing but bad luck with nothing we can do
about it. It's of course still covered by the "no fix, no fee" model,
i.e. there will not be any charge for any repair work done already, and
besides the return shipping there won't be any more cost for you if you
want the item back.

Thanks guys! Hope we can keep the Squeezebox world going, despite all
obstacles!

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2019-09-16 Thread JoeMuc2009


newusername wrote: 
> Hi Joe,
> do you still have VFDs for Sqzbox Classic ?

Hi there,
yes, I do. Unfortunately, the German Post has given up the possibility
to send stuff for 6.20 EUR worldwide so shipping will be considerably
more expensive. The shipping price depends on where you want to have the
display sent. Gross price is 46.00 EUR per unit.

Cheers,
Joe



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Re: [slim] How Many Squeezeboxes still in use?

2019-06-25 Thread JoeMuc2009


Any Squeezebox device is worth keeping. They are pretty reliable in
comparison to other gadgets nowadays. Might not be quite so true for
some of them, the Radio for instance, but in general, the construction
of SBs is solid. Michael is doing a superb job in keeping the platform
up and running. This should be honored much more.
Hardware-wise, it's telling that a lifetime of 10 years or more is
considered exceptional nowadays. My main amp is a Revox B250-S that was
built in 1987, and besides a capacitor replacement there was no service
ever needed for it. 32 years in permanent service, that's quite
something. And I have no doubts I would still use it 30 years from now.
Schematics are available, the hardware design consists mainly of
standard components, and Revox keeps supplying almost any component of
any device they ever brought to market. That's remarkable. I cannot
think of any other manufacturer that does this.
The speakers and most parts of my main stereo set are nearly the same
age. Good proof that spending more money gave you better quality, at
least that's what used to be true back in the day. You can now spend
1600 EUR on an iPod dock and enjoy its crappy audio from a
wife-acceptable shiny 7.1 polypropylene D-class system, and these things
won't even last you 5 years before they add to the garbage dump because
nobody is capable of repairing the undocumented, twisted, "defective by
design" components. In what aspect is that better anyway? Hi-Fi was
never about fashion, still my impression is that the focus shifts
towards the shell and gimmicks like app control, and away from overall
quality.
Something got lost along the way but it's not caused by the
manufacturers entirely. It's also the consumer's responsibility to
control where things are heading, and imho it's going down the drain.
If your Squeezebox fails you, there are ways to repair most of the
issues. I am trying to do my part in keeping the Squeezebox ecosystem
ticking. Please, instead of considering to abandon Squeezebox in total,
or tossing a failed device, give me a PN or create a thread in this
forum. There are many people out there who will help.



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LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
8x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (3 waiting for repair)
8x Squeezebox Boom (one dead, one waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (1 dead, 1 waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2019-06-18 Thread JoeMuc2009


just sent you a PM :)



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8x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (3 waiting for repair)
8x Squeezebox Boom (one dead, one waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
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3x Touch (1 dead, 1 waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2019-05-31 Thread JoeMuc2009


SamS wrote: 
> My Squeezebox Classic display finally died today. Any ideas where to get
> this replacement VFD in the USA?

I've sent you a PM ;)



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8x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (3 waiting for repair)
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1x Transporter
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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2019-04-26 Thread JoeMuc2009


pputzer wrote: 
> I've got an SB3 that seems to be in good working order, except that IR
> blaster is not able light up IR diodes plugged into the headphone jack.
> I'm assuming it's probably the capacitors, but replacing those is beyond
> my soldering skills.

I was actually hoping somebody else with more IR Blaster experience
would answer. I have not used IR Blaster myself yet but would advise you
to check these steps:



- did IR Blaster work previously? How did it stop? Did it become more
  and more unreliable, or did it fail at one point?
- if you are trying to set it up for the first time, did you ensure
  the polarity and connections on the headphone jack are correct with
  respect to the IR diode?
- if you point your smartphone's camera (in video mode), or any video
  camera, towards the IR emitter diode, do you see faint purple flashes
  while IR commands are being sent? (please compare to a known-working
  IR remote control to verify your camera is picking up the infrared
  light)
- does the headphone jack of your SB3 work properly when being used as
  a regular headphone output? If the left channel is missing, that would
  be the same pin that drives the IR diode...
  

Hope this might help you a bit.
Cheers,
Joe



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1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
8x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (3 waiting for repair)
8x Squeezebox Boom (one dead, one waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
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Re: [slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2019-01-04 Thread JoeMuc2009


madpad wrote: 
> Hey Joe
> 
> Great post and even better Blog, with such detailed repair instructions.
> 
> I also own several Squeezbox 3 (Classic) devices. I now have a problem
> with one of them. After a few hours of just being on standby the display
> turns off, and it won't react on any command until I unplug the power
> and plug it in again. After that, it runs for antoher few hours
> (sometimes even 24 hours..) but not much longer. I already replaced the
> power supply but it did not help, stil the same. I even reset the whole
> Slim, and today I tried now the Xilinx reset and hope this helps, but if
> not, any other ideas what it could be, that it just goes dark after some
> hours?
> 
> Best regards.
> Patrick

Hi Patrick,

okay, and you are sure that it no longer reacts? It's not just the
display that goes dark? Does playback cut off in the middle of playing?
Because it's a huge difference between a SB that crashes and one that
fails to power its display whereas anything else is fine.
The display power circuitry might have issues similar to the Boom.
However, the fix that I have found for the Boom circuitry does not work
properly in the Classic. I never had any Classic with this sort of
failure though, so there are no advice yet.

Best regards,
Joe



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LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
8x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (3 waiting for repair)
8x Squeezebox Boom (one dead, one waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (1 dead, 1 waiting for repair)
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[slim] Squeezebox Classic (SB3) Repair Considerations

2018-11-19 Thread JoeMuc2009


Hi there,

I've created another blog entry on Squeezebox Classic (SB3) typical
issues and how to resolve them.
It can be found here:

https://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2018/11/logitech-slimdevices-squeezebox-classic.html

Let me know if you find anything wrong or missing. It's a work in
progress.

Cheers,
Joe



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LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
8x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (3 waiting for repair)
8x Squeezebox Boom (one dead, one waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (1 dead, 1 waiting for repair)
2x Radio (1 dead)
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Re: [slim] squeezebox3 troubleshooting

2017-11-15 Thread JoeMuc2009

No WiFi? I think the SB Classic 3 always shipped with it, just like its
predecessors (Classic 2 and 1). Can you post a photo of the board?
Do you see a red light in the digital optical output? Does it flicker?



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LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
1x Radio

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Re: [slim] Smart people will stay with Squeezebox

2017-11-09 Thread JoeMuc2009

Bit late maybe, sorry, but let me add that parts of the Squeezebox
issues are still repairable which is also a good reason to stick around
;)
I don't think this gets easier with more modern devices which are
apparently built to go to the landfill after warranty expiry.



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LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
1x Radio

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Re: [slim] My Transporter has gotten into a boot loop

2017-11-09 Thread JoeMuc2009

Oh, sorry to read that! Hope we all can help you.

How is your Transporter connected to your network? WiFi or Ethernet?
To me your fault description sounds like the WiFi card might fail as it
is initializing, and it's such a hard fault that it causes the CPU to
reboot. WiFi cards are known for failing. Not so much in the Transporter
but as this is a regular issue in the Classic and Boom units, why should
the precious Transporter be spared?

My approach would be this:


- open the Transporter and look for obvious issues like excessive heat
  (IR camera is a great help here), burnt components, unlit LEDs (there
  are four, three of which are permanently on by default, and one
  flashing along with infrared commands coming in)
- try to remove the Wi-Fi card that is inserted on top of the CPU
  board
- restart the Transporter after that (with the Wi-Fi card removed and
  isolated). This will produce error messages and force the Transporter
  into Ethernet connection of course, so you should be able to connect
  it via Ethernet wire for this period. But if the device starts up at
  all, that's a really good sign
- if not, do some voltage measurements to ensure that all voltages are
  present (I had a Transporter here for repair very recently where one
  of the transformers had failed!)
- reseat the CPU board which requires tearing almost the whole thing
  down. The mainboard needs to be lifted out because the CPU board is
  bolted down and undoing the screw will cause a metal nut on the other
  side to go rogue. You don't want to keep it at that.
  

There are tons of more tests one could do if all this does not lead
anywhere. But some lab equipment is definitely required then.
Depending on where you are located, I could offer you to take a look. I
have a Transporter myself that I regularly use for comparison of 
voltages etc., and some general experience around Squeezeboxes, too.
Saved three Transporters already. Inside the EU the shipping is not a
big deal. Outside - a lot more precarious but still possible.
Let me know what you think.

Cheers,
Joe



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LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2017-06-21 Thread JoeMuc2009

ModelCitizen wrote: 
> $80 more? The price of this item to me in the UK appears to be
> $9,174.95!

ROFL, that probably means they don't want to send outside the USA?
I'll happily repair Transporter displays as well for EU people, by the
way. It's not that expensive eventually.



5x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
6x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
1.5x Controller (one waiting for repair)
1.5x Touch (one waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2017-06-21 Thread JoeMuc2009

Fizbin wrote: 
> I think I'd rather buy one of these. It's an extra $80, but you get the
> entire assembly, which is much easier to install.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Logitech-Slim-Devices-Transporter-Network-Music-Player-FRONT-DISPLAY-UNIT-/361901520563?hash=item544302f6b3:g:uyEAAOSwLnBXVeDN

That's true. As long as the seller has units in stock (2 left at the
moment), this is the more comfortable way. Before you toss the old PCB,
please let me know if you would sell it and at what price.



5x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
6x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
1.5x Controller (one waiting for repair)
1.5x Touch (one waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2017-06-20 Thread JoeMuc2009

Okay people, please PN me if you want displays. I have the "go" from
Noritake Germany to ship displays wherever I want. There won't be
conflicting interests with Noritake US, they apparently focus more on
business customers. So it appears I am the most inexpensive source for
the displays at the moment. Please check for yourselves. If it is no
longer true, please feel free to announce better sources here. I'm glad
to help but if there is an easier way for US people, it's all the better
also for me.
The pricing is currently 40 EUR for a Boom display (MN16032G or
MN16032GB, depending on stock), and 45 EUR for a Classic display
(MN32032A), two of which are needed for the Transporter. On top of that,
there are 6.50 EUR shipping for registered DeutschePost parcel to the
US. Please convert EUR to USD when the time to place your order comes to
know what this actually means for your budget. The exchange rate varies
a lot recently.
As I do not plan to keep greater amounts in stock, please allow up to
four weeks additional delivery time from Japan to me once I placed my
collective order with Noritake (they don't stock a lot themselves here
in Germany). So it may take up to six weeks until the display arrives at
your door. But you may as well be lucky and I have enough stock to send
them off right away. I'll keep everyone informed of course.
I hope you all are okay with advance payment as I won't be able to
afford large orders otherwise. It would also reduce the risk of orders
being cancelled, leaving me with stock I don't want. Anyway, please
place orders only if you are really sure you want the stuff. The pricing
is not going to vary much in the future so you can calculate the final
total easily. If Noritake has another price increase like they had
recently, I will post new prices here.

Cheers,
Joe



5x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
6x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
1.5x Controller (one waiting for repair)
1.5x Touch (one waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2017-06-19 Thread JoeMuc2009

JJZolx wrote: 
> Does Noritake sell individual units in any of those markets? I'm
> skeptical. I'm also skeptical that you'd be able to find many (or any?)
> distributors who would be buying those to stock and sell to the public.
> Now, if you want to buy 1500 of them, I'm sure you'd have no problem.

No need to worry, they ship displays to me for instance, any quantities
I want, and I'm not acting as a company, and no distributor is in the
supply chain. It is as easy as can be. Noritake is particularly
forthcoming in Germany. It's known that they are not as cooperative in
the States though. If all else fails, you could buy from me. Sending
from Germany to the US is surprisingly cheap, only around 6 EUR for a
registered parcel.



5x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
6x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
1.5x Controller (one waiting for repair)
1.5x Touch (one waiting for repair)
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Re: [slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2017-06-19 Thread JoeMuc2009

Hi, I have added my replies between the lines:

ModelCitizen wrote: 
> Thanks for this. The display on my Boom is not readable any more and I'd
> like to change it. However, I have a few issues I'd be glad if you or
> someone might adress:
> 
> 1) You say: " the changes in the control logic part seem pretty
> fundamental". This sounds like they are not a direct swap out, or have a
> I got that wrong?
> Well, the photos show that the circuitry has undergone some massive
> changes. However, besides minimal deviations, the electrical and logical
> interface is same as before. You can swap them against each other with
> no problems.
> 
> 2) How hard is the display to change? Is it a soldering iron job (if so
> it looks quite hard due to large number of pins)?
> It is a soldering job, and it's not the easiest one. I would say, on a
> scale of 1 to 10 where 10 is hardest, it's a 6. But this is not only due
> to the requisite desoldering and soldering but also because the Boom is
> not exactly service-friendly, and a lot of mistakes can be made on the
> way. My recommended replacement procedure is described in detail here:
> http://joes-tech-blog.blogspot.com/2016/06/logitech-squeezebox-boom-vfd-display.html
> 
> 2) Where can I buy a Noritake MN16032GB. I can't find a seller anywhere?
> Noritake has some sales offices around the world. I recommend purchasing
> directly from there as intermediate merchants add quite a bit on top of
> the regular price. Here is what I could find on some of the data sheets:
> 
> Noritake Sales Office Tel Nos
> Nagoya Japan: +81 (0)52-561-9867
> Canada: +1-416-291-2946
> Chicago USA: +1-847-439-9020
> Munchen (D): +49 (0)89-3214-290
> Itron UK: +44 (0)1493 601144
> Rest Europe: +49 (0)61-0520-9220
> www.noritake-itron.com
> 
> If all else fails, I can send you small quantities directly. It is
> well-known that the US sales office has irreasonably high pricing,
> approximately double of what is charged for the same thing in Germany. I
> am currently in contact with them, asking why and if there is any chance
> of better pricing in the US any time soon.
> 
> Thanks



5x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
6x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
1.5x Controller (one waiting for repair)
1.5x Touch (one waiting for repair)

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[slim] Good news: ongoing production of Boom, Classic, and Transporter displays

2017-06-19 Thread JoeMuc2009

Hi all,

just for your information, Noritake is still producing new displays like
MN16032GB (Boom) and MN32032A (Classic, Transporter).
The MN16032G was recently replaced by the MN16032GB which is a different
revision with same dimensions and pinout but slightly different
electrical characteristics. I have checked and can assure 100%
compatibility with the Squeezebox Boom.
While the G and GB models are indistinguishable on the front side, the
changes in the control logic part seem pretty fundamental. Anyway,
nobody needs to worry about displays running out of production any time
soon.

These are closeups of the back sections where the changes are most
apparent. The early model had a single chip on glass to provide the
interface and drive the grid and pixel lines. The new model has two
individual chips in the same place.
MN16032G on top, the MN16032GB below. They're kind of beautiful
:rolleyes:

22917

22918


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|Download: http://forums.slimdevices.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22918|
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