Re: [Drakelist] Station upgrade?
Well I'm guessing that the only thing that has changed antenna wise is it's advertising. And most of that is now not only crap, it is an out and out lie. And because the ARRL(for one) does not require truth in the advertising that they print it sorta looks like there is all this new stuff. Most notably are vertical antennas that do not require radials or even a counterpoise. I use a Butternut HF-6V with a MN2000 and have (can) tune the WARC bands with it. I know that this does not directly address your system but the theory does. If your MN2700 is anything like the older MN2000 you should not have a problem. DO NOT use RG8X. I think that anything short of Times LMR 400 is a waste of money and time. The best thing anyone can do is to ignore the advertising and get your information from other Hams... just like you are doing. Take Care KB8NXO On Tue, Mar 8, 2011 at 6:30 PM, Michael Sue Trussell mtruss8...@comcast.net wrote: The weather and old age have taken its toll on my old AV5 Cushcraft 5 band vertical antenna. I am considering a purchase of another all band MBVE-1UP 45 foot vertical by DX Engineering. Because I have been out of amateur radio for many years the technical knowledge that I thought knew about antennas and such has evolved so much by the various equipment manufactures that my knowledge base has become outdated somewhat. I need to stick with a vertical because of lack real estate and living in a city lot! I would like some suggestions from you who have been keeping up on the art and technology to offer some suggestions on using an antenna like the above mentioned MBVE-1, with my Drake MN2700 antenna tuner. I would like to use all of the capacity of this antenna; I also understand that the capacity of the MN2700 is limited to the standard amateur radio frequencies. I would like to use the WARC bands that I now have the capacity to use with my TR7 along with the L4B amp just recently rebuilt. It works even better now with a new power supply. Should I look for another tuner to use or purchase another MN2700 and attempt to modify it? Any suggestion or ideas would be greatly appreciated Thank you in advance Michael J TrussellKA8ASN ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC sudden loss of RF output?
The first thing that came to my mind was your power supply. Now you have .04 cents. On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 6:38 PM, Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net wrote: GE Group: Joe: Just my 2 cents here...sudden failures of output are not caused by alignment. It really sounds like a component failure of some sort. The only thing messing with alignment will do for you at this point is mask the solution to real problem. You will get good advice here regarding sorting thru the possible causes and isolating the fault. Don't mess with the alignment. FWIW Curt KU8L 4 Line A and B, TR3 TR4 TR7 and much non-Drake classic equipment. joe loverti wrote: Garey, I'm not sure I mentioned this to you or not. When I first realized I was having this trouble with the low output on the TX I heard some kind of a sound when I was tuning up. This was right at the onset of the trouble. After hearing that sound is when I noticed my plate and RF out was way low. Its been like this ever since I heard the sound. I can't really accurately describe it other than a flash or a sizzle. Not sure if it was an arc or what. I don't see anything on the variable capacitors that indicate that an arc occurred. I was not using an amp at the time. Just tuning up barefoot into my DL and at a fairly low power level. Could a component have failed? I'm a little hesitant to attempt an alignment myself. I don't consider myself much of a technician. I will read up on that procedure some more before I give it a go. Also, I am getting the exact same results whether I'm using the RCVR, XMTR, or in separate to tune up. 73 and thanks! -Joe WS8X ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Tuning skirt calibration
Should I have to calibrate my tuning skirt every time I change bands or is this indicative of an alignment needed? (sorry about all the rookie questions but I am a rookie) Thanks KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Tuning skirt calibration
Thanks as always. The difference is only about .5 to 1.5 kc. So I guess the rig is aging well. It's not so much a bother as much as me being hypersensitive about my TR-4's operation. I love my Drakes. And after starting a fire in one while trying to tune it up... I just try to watch everything and want to keep it on the air. I just love putting out a couple of hundred watts barefoot. Actually I love everything about them. Great list... always helpful. KB8NXO On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 1:15 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote: Richard - This is function of the aging of the BAND oscillator crystals. The crystals were originally specified as +/- 0.003% tolerance, which is about +/- 550 Hz for the 40M crystal, and up to about +/- 1.2 kHz for the 10M crystal. So when new, the typical variation could be up to +/- 1 kHz, or one skirt division. However, crystals 'age' over time, and the frequencies change at seemingly random rates and directions. Most that I am familiar with tend to drift UP in frequency, but this is not always the case. The aging rate varies, but typically runs 6 - 8 ppm per year, or 60 - 80 ppm for ten years. This translates to ~1.2 kHz for the 18.1 MHz 40M crystal. Forty years means ~ 4.8 kHz. IF it bothers you too much, you can buy a new set of BAND crystals from International Crystal Mfrs, specify 0.001% tolerance, and 'fix' it! :-) 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: Should I have to calibrate my tuning skirt every time I change bands or is this indicative of an alignment needed? (sorry about all the rookie questions but I am a rookie) Thanks KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Xmtr gain setting
Per the manual my Xmtr gain setting is at about 8-8:30. But I have no meter movement when I transmit SSB. If I increase the setting to 12:00 I get deflection while transmitting. So How should I set my Xmtr gain control? Thanks, KB8NXO Toledo,Ohio ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Xmtr gain setting
Well my mic is an Electrovoice 605 so there is no adjustment there. I have no scope and don't foresee getting one. I'm not looking for peak. All I know is that if I decrease my xmtr gain.. it decreases my output power. So I'm guessing ... being a total new-be, that if I increase the xmtr gain over the recommended setting I might be over driving the rig. I hope this explains better what I'm asking. Thanks On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 11:37 AM, Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net wrote: The plate meter will only kick to 100-150ma on voice peaks when set properly. Adjust the mic gain so that is what you have..depending on the mic you use, 12 oClock might be fine. Don't try to get it to peak up to the loaded value. the dynamics of the meter movement prevent it from responding fast enough to show the actual peak current. A scope can be a valuable tool to monitor for a while untile you are used to what the Normal meter response looks like. Curt KU8L Richard Palmer wrote: Per the manual my Xmtr gain setting is at about 8-8:30. But I have no meter movement when I transmit SSB. If I increase the setting to 12:00 I get deflection while transmitting. So How should I set my Xmtr gain control? Thanks, KB8NXO Toledo,Ohio ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] More MN-4C saga
I have cleaned the medal disc part, that would not clean up with any chemical, with the eraser on a pencil. It did a GREAT job. I have tried to clean the ceramic part with alcohol. But with limited success. Hope this helps. KB8NXO On Thu, Oct 14, 2010 at 10:28 AM, Curt rhule...@comcast.net wrote: What method can be used to restore a porcelain switch deck with carbon streaking? The bandswitch on this MN-4C shows blackening near the 160M capacitor position. 73, Curt KB5JO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A
Sylvania 6JB6's are on ebay, eham and QRZ normally for $25.00 each. I believe if the tubes have the same date code they are matched. On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 7:53 PM, Edward Swynar gswy...@durham.net wrote: *Hi Mike,* From a thread re. Drake finals here of some two years ago, there was mention of the fact that the *6GJ5* is a *direct substitute* for the 6JB6, if you have no luck finding that latter tube... *~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ* - Original Message - *From:* m coffey r79b...@gmail.com *To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net *Sent:* Wednesday, September 29, 2010 4:56 PM *Subject:* [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A Thanks for the info on 6jb6 vs. 6JB6A. I have seen a few 6JB6 of both varieties on line, often advertised as MATCHED. I wonder how they have matched them as some have listed an emmisson only tube tester as the match unit. I am very leary of these so called matched tubes! Even the ones from the large tube sellers may be useless! I was given a T4-R4 set which I took to WB4HFN. He went over them and said that I would need a new set of finals after I had used them for awhile. I am having some trouble getting a wire up for them, but I keeping my eyes open for a nice set of 6JB6 s. Mike, KB1EZL -- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] One R-4A down, two to go, plus a 2B to go
*(1) An intermittent that shows up after an hour or so that causes signal levels to drop about 20 dB for a few seconds then pop back in. A burst of static, switching to STBY and back to RCV, or opening up the bandwidth to cause a burst of signal will correct the drop, but then after several seconds it will drop again (but it self-corrects, the drops, then self-corrects.most annoying).* I don't know which tube it is for your receiver but try a known good voltage regulator tube. In my TR-4 it's something like V20 = 0A2. Good luck. On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 12:15 AM, ph...@aol.com wrote: Finally got one of the three R-4A receivers working well and it's now in the shack. Here's the status: R-4A #3781: A 13-tube, the second-nicest of the three, re-capped and now working just fine. The only issue with this one was a REALLY warbly PTO. Since #3735 (see below) was quite stable I swapped out PTOs and got 3781 checked out fully aligned. R-4A #3735: Another 13-tube and the worst of the three (the chassis looks REALLY bad, chicken coop storage?), this one has a thoroughly hosed-up preselector drive that I need to rebuild including turning a new SS center shaft on the lathe. It also now has a warbly PTO (see above) but before I swapped out the PTO it worked fine except for the preselector drive. The chassis will make a good test-bed for trouble-shooting fixing the PTO assembly. R-4A #5757G: An 11-tube, this unit looks almost new inside and out and a chassis this clean has got to be VERY rare. Unit has been fully re-capped and after a 30-minute warm-up it aligned just fine. It works great except for two things: (1) An intermittent that shows up after an hour or so that causes signal levels to drop about 20 dB for a few seconds then pop back in. A burst of static, switching to STBY and back to RCV, or opening up the bandwidth to cause a burst of signal will correct the drop, but then after several seconds it will drop again (but it self-corrects, the drops, then self-corrects.most annoying). The drop is visible on the S-meter as well as being audible. Tube replacement doesn't do a thing for it. Replacing the damaged tube socket for V4 didn't, either. (2) Seems to have a little distortion in the AM audio. Haven't searched for the cause yet. 2B #2052: Has worked great from the day it arrived and I haven't had to touch it. It's due for a re-cap (kit is on hand) and I'll run through the alignment, and since it lost its place on the operating desk to R-4A #3781 tonight I'll probably tackle it fairly soon. It shouldn't need much other than the new caps. Problems notwithstanding, it's pretty amazing that these 40+ year-old receivers can be made to work so well after all these years. 73/arf, Paul, K4MSG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] AC 3 Pot
I need a new pot for my ac 3. Do I just get a 10k 200v that will look good? Thanks in advance. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC 3 Pot
Thanks. I found nothing anywhere about it. I tried to google the numbers on the case and got nothing. The schematic shows 10 k. As you see I was unsure about the voltage. On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 12:53 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.comwrote: Richard - Nothing special about it. Never sees more than about 70 VDC to ground. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: I need a new pot for my ac 3. Do I just get a 10k 200v that will look good? Thanks in advance. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Saga continues...
Improper wiring could make the rig key up when plugged in. This takes out the receive. On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 9:31 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote: On Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:06:45 -0500, Joe Loverti wrote: Anyone have the correct wiring method for these mics? Still puzzles me why this would cut the rx out even wired incorrectly. All Shure mic data sheets can be found here: http://www.shure.com/americas/support/user-guides/all-user-guides/index.htm I've found errors in various online wiring guides posted by well-meaning hams. In a nutshell: White = Audio Red = PTT Black + Shield = ground Red goes to tip, white to ring, and black/shield to the shell. A miswired mic can key a transmitter, which will give the symptom you describe. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://radiojim.exofire.net http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] AC-3 Pot
Can someone give me a part number and source for the pot in a AC-3. If it has the mounting tabs all the better. Thanks, Richard Palmer ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fire... really
I did find a small round piece that looks like hard polished leather It's size is almost an exact match to the tops the slug coils. So if it were a part of a part that's all I've found. I'm done for now. Thanks for all the help everyone. My MFJ is a 941D. I about died when I found myself trying to load to rig without the coax attached. So I'm just going to save up some money and see about shipping her off for whatever repairs are needed. I see there is a lot I couldn't even solder on my best day anymore. Can't say it enough... thanks. Rick Palmer On 8/21/10, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote: Rick - No problem, better a dupe than not to the list! :-) Fire in the hole is almost always a 'missing antenna' problem. Mismatched PA tubes can cause neutralization problems, sometimes with oscillation and fireworks. You don't say what MFJ tuner you have, but is it actually rated for 250W? MFJs also have a habit of things melting and/or coming apart over time. Don't forget that the coax also has a connector on each end! The relay coil is usually wrapped in a 'varnished cambric' tape, red-brown fabric soaked in varnish, that is heat resistant. Does the relay pull in ok? It is connected directly to the +250V bus, so a short on the 'wrong' end of the coil could account for some fireworks. Keep us posted! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: I have tried tuning her up only to find a disconnected coax ( 2 rigs no switch ). But when it's connected... it goes into a 300w dummy load. I do have to tune the antenna on air though. I noticed on your great CD, while looking for a titanium cap, that the relay there is wrapped in what looks like asbestos. I'm not certain mine is there... should it be??? All three PA tube are Sylvania. I run Times LMR400 UF... it's new but my old MFJ might be causing me problems. I bought it used over ten years ago. It seems to be ok with 100w but maybe the Drake stresses it out. That is on my have to replace next list. I'm not even going to try it with the drake again. Thanks everyone for the great ideas. When this get this sussed out you'll be the first to know. Rick Palmer Sorry for the dupe Garry On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 10:34 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.commailto: k4...@mindspring.com wrote: Richard - The fact that it didn't tune indicates that perhaps the antenna was either not connected (relay?) or wrong band? or bad coax, or ... Possibly arcing in the relay contacts or coil. What is the BIAS current? It should be 100 mA, if it's now 65 mA or so you may have lost a final tube. Really not much to flame in the PA cage. You could get corona on variable cap plates, again due to mismatch, but that is typically an ozone smell. A parasitic could have fried one of the parasitic suppressors on the PA plate caps. Are all three PA tubes from the same manufacturer? 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com http://www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: My TR-4 did not want to tune... it caught on fire that looked like it was at the PA section probably around the relay. All I could really do was grab switches and plugs faster than anything I've done in the last twenty years. The smoke was not the conventional electric smell. It was very acid and burning. I sorta took in a nose full doing the above and felt high, in a bad way. I just got around to looking at it and can not find any burnt or distorted part. There is absolutely no sign of soot or heat anywhere. Seeing this I tried to tune her up again. I was getting a very solid 4.5 for the plate current. Now it's only 3. Is it possible (likely) that I smoked one of my PA tubes? Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Fire... really
My TR-4 did not want to tune... it caught on fire that looked like it was at the PA section probably around the relay. All I could really do was grab switches and plugs faster than anything I've done in the last twenty years. The smoke was not the conventional electric smell. It was very acid and burning. I sorta took in a nose full doing the above and felt high, in a bad way. I just got around to looking at it and can not find any burnt or distorted part. There is absolutely no sign of soot or heat anywhere. Seeing this I tried to tune her up again. I was getting a very solid 4.5 for the plate current. Now it's only 3. Is it possible (likely) that I smoked one of my PA tubes? Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fire... really
I forgot to mention that there was a 2 flame... hence fire. The tune and load caps were clean as are the coils in the tank. I thought that maybe something wrapped in paper light up. The flame was by where the relay is. I would have bet good money that some sign of the fire would be obvious. But no signs on either side of the chassis, no sign on either of the case covers. No bare leads where something use to be and no blistered pieces. But that smell was very acid. Even the memory of it makes my head pang. It's sitting for now and I'm using a TS-570G. (I prefer my Drake though) On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 9:10 PM, Ron wd8...@yahoo.com wrote: Rick, Sorry to her you had issues with one of our loved ones :-) Acidic smell sounds like an electrolytic cap. Don't recall if any exist in the PA area, but if they do they would not be in the cage. There might be something below the cage under the chassis. If there was a fire and now it is gone without an obvious trace, have a look at your tune and load caps. Arc over in tank circuit caps tend to occur and then vanish, but they leave scorch and pits marks on the caps. Unfortunately those marks are there to assist another arc over in the future. But I would not think that a tank circuit cap would be acidic smelling. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On *Fri, 8/20/10, Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net* wrote: From: Richard Palmer burnto...@toast.net Subject: [Drakelist] Fire... really To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Friday, August 20, 2010, 8:04 PM My TR-4 did not want to tune... it caught on fire that looked like it was at the PA section probably around the relay. All I could really do was grab switches and plugs faster than anything I've done in the last twenty years. The smoke was not the conventional electric smell. It was very acid and burning. I sorta took in a nose full doing the above and felt high, in a bad way. I just got around to looking at it and can not find any burnt or distorted part. There is absolutely no sign of soot or heat anywhere. Seeing this I tried to tune her up again. I was getting a very solid 4.5 for the plate current. Now it's only 3. Is it possible (likely) that I smoked one of my PA tubes? Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mc/compose?to=drakel...@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Fire... really
I have tried tuning her up only to find a disconnected coax ( 2 rigs no switch ). But when it's connected... it goes into a 300w dummy load. I do have to tune the antenna on air though. I noticed on your great CD, while looking for a titanium cap, that the relay there is wrapped in what looks like asbestos. I'm not certain mine is there... should it be??? All three PA tube are Sylvania. I run Times LMR400 UF... it's new but my old MFJ might be causing me problems. I bought it used over ten years ago. It seems to be ok with 100w but maybe the Drake stresses it out. That is on my have to replace next list. I'm not even going to try it with the drake again. Thanks everyone for the great ideas. When this get this sussed out you'll be the first to know. Rick Palmer Sorry for the dupe Garry On Fri, Aug 20, 2010 at 10:34 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.comwrote: Richard - The fact that it didn't tune indicates that perhaps the antenna was either not connected (relay?) or wrong band? or bad coax, or ... Possibly arcing in the relay contacts or coil. What is the BIAS current? It should be 100 mA, if it's now 65 mA or so you may have lost a final tube. Really not much to flame in the PA cage. You could get corona on variable cap plates, again due to mismatch, but that is typically an ozone smell. A parasitic could have fried one of the parasitic suppressors on the PA plate caps. Are all three PA tubes from the same manufacturer? 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: My TR-4 did not want to tune... it caught on fire that looked like it was at the PA section probably around the relay. All I could really do was grab switches and plugs faster than anything I've done in the last twenty years. The smoke was not the conventional electric smell. It was very acid and burning. I sorta took in a nose full doing the above and felt high, in a bad way. I just got around to looking at it and can not find any burnt or distorted part. There is absolutely no sign of soot or heat anywhere. Seeing this I tried to tune her up again. I was getting a very solid 4.5 for the plate current. Now it's only 3. Is it possible (likely) that I smoked one of my PA tubes? Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Low power tuning
Rookie tube radio guy here Hi Hi. How do I tune my TR-4 to less than maximum power? Thanks, KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Wanted AC-4
I need a good working AC-4. I really do. KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 4 line crystals
I believe Gold case refers to the price of $45.00. KB8NXO On 6/30/10, Howard Traxler htraxl...@earthlink.net wrote: Sorry for duplicating, but: the way this list handles replies is very confusing to me. Who was it who posted the 3.5 MHz band = 14.600 MHz ($45.00) Gold case?? and what is meant by gold case? Thanks. Howard, WA9RYF ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] MN-2000/ MN-4
How are the MN-4 and it's big brother at tuning the WARC bands?? Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] MN-2000/ MN-4
I have a brass slinky. Right now end to end about 32 ft. (bad # for 40m). It is resonate at 15m. And with a mfj 941D tuner will do 80-10m 1:1.5. I want a Drake tuner and have read that they can tune a garbage can (-8. But for the price of a MN-2000 I wanted to ask. Thanks for the input. Richard Palmer KB8NXO Curt Nixon wrote: I use a MN-2000 into a windom cut for 40M and can tune to near zero SWR on all bands from 40 up. It is just a matter of finding which band position to use. In my case, for 30M I use the 40M position--it will also work from the twentyM position for 17 I use 15M for 12 I use 10M It will depend somewhat on the antenna You use so it may not work for every case, but I am happy with the New Carolina Windom 40 and the MN-2000 Curt KU8L -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] T-4X Audio Question
Geoffry is correct. Your Drake needs a high impedance mic to get that Drake sound. Hulett, Russell wrote: Trying out my T-4X on SSB, using an old D-104 microphone with T-UG8 stand. Comments were audio was ok but sounded like I was in a tunnel. Another mentioned that the audio was higher pitched than my other rigs. My T-4XB never received any similar reports, though the microphone used with that rig is a D-104 on a G base Being mainly a CW op, am not very adept at identifying the cause. I seem to recall that the T-4X has less filtering than the later versions. Is this likely the cause of poor audio or would the microphone be more likely the issue? The reason am using different base with the T-4X is that is only one with the aircraft plug, the T-4XB was converted by some previous owner to 1/4 inch microphone jack. Thanks for any info and 73, Curt KB5JO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Crystal Calibrator Alignment TR-4
The manual says to tune to WWV ect.ect. I'm assuming this is 10Mc. . Can I use a signal generator set to 10Mc. and accomplish the same desired result? I have neither of these and must buy what I need to skin this cat. Any suggestions? One caveat... it must be inexpensive. Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Crystal Calibrator Alignment TR-4
It sure is if you don't count the cost of a receiver and aerial. Both of which are needed to get that free station ;-) . Nigel Gunn G8IFF/W8IFF wrote: What's wrong with WWV? You don't have to buy that. On 25-Feb-10 15:51, Richard Palmer wrote: The manual says to tune to WWV ect.ect. I'm assuming this is 10Mc. . Can I use a signal generator set to 10Mc. and accomplish the same desired result? I have neither of these and must buy what I need to skin this cat. Any suggestions? One caveat... it must be inexpensive. Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2708 - Release Date: 02/24/10 19:34:00 -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Crystal Calibrator Alignment TR-4
I dug out my am antenna for my receiver and I have two (1) 800kHz - the birthplace of MoTown CKLW and (2) 700kHz, someplace around Detroit. Their signal is not as strong. So I guess I'm in business! So much for justifying a Hammarlund purchase :-) . Garey Barrell wrote: Richard - Do you have ANY receiver aside from your TR-4? It doesn't have to have a BFO or be particularly stable or sensitive. If all you have is a Broadcast Band table radio, see if you have a commercial station on an even 100 kHz frequency such as 700, 800, 1200, etc. It doesn't have to be local, in fact best if it isn't too strong, and the higher the better. Get it close to the TR-4, and possibly wrap a turn or two of wire around the calibrator tube, bringing the other end near the broadcast receiver antenna. Turn on the calibrator and adjust your wire until the calibrator signal is about the same strength as the BC station, then adjust the calibrator until the signal is at zero beat. Adjust as carefully as you can, if the signals are near the same strength you'll actually be able to hear a slow variation in amplitude when you're within a few Hz of zero. This is far from ideal, but BC stations are very accurate. When you calibrate at 10 MHz, you are comparing the 100th harmonic of the calibrator to a known frequency, whereas with a broadcast station you're only at the 10th harmonic on a 1 MHz BC station. But plenty close enough for our purposes. Better still is if you can borrow a receiver that covers 10 or 15 MHz, and if you can resist adjusting the calibrator, they stay correct for a LONG time. In fact, unless someone has been adjusting it, it's probably close enough! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: The manual says to tune to WWV ect.ect. I'm assuming this is 10Mc. . Can I use a signal generator set to 10Mc. and accomplish the same desired result? I have neither of these and must buy what I need to skin this cat. Any suggestions? One caveat... it must be inexpensive. Thanks in advance, Richard Palmer KB8NXO ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Crystal Calibrator Alignment TR-4
Chuck,
Not true. You know it. I have a dozen of your emails to prove it.
You are fishing (at best). Leave it alone.
Richard Palmer
KB8NXO
Chuck Grandgent wrote:
Hey Garey,
did you mean uF or pF. Richrd is quite certain you really meant pF.
Chuck, K1OM
On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 2:38 PM, Garey
Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
wrote:
Richard
-
OK. That 0.005 cap isn't particularly critical. The 1000 ohm
resistor is the load, the cap is just to prevent shorting the DC to
ground. Any disc ceramic from 0.001 to 0.01 uF at 500V or more would
work just fine.
I wouldn't worry too much about the calibrator. As long as someone
hasn't twisted on the trimmer cap it's plenty close enough.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com
Richard Palmer wrote:
Garey,
I have cleaned my eBay TR-4. Replaced two tubes, V1 V20. Along
with tightening up the ps connector pins and probably some other small
forgotten stuff it seems to be working nicely. Although I still have
yet to make "first contact". I thought I'd go through the complete
alignment procedure to check and adjust as necessary.
( I thought I had a source for two 0.01pF capacitors from Allied but
their web site ordering is worse than crap. I called them and to my
disbelief still more crap. So I'm still looking for some caps to get
the 0.005pf for the alignment procedure.)
That's why I asked about calibrating the calibrator. I don't suspect
any problem... just want to check all the settings.
Richard Palmer
KB8NXO
Garey Barrell wrote:
Richard -
Do you have ANY receiver aside from your TR-4? It doesn't have to have
a BFO or be particularly stable or sensitive.
If all you have is a Broadcast Band table radio, see if you have a
commercial station on an even 100 kHz frequency such as 700, 800, 1200,
etc. It doesn't have to be local, in fact best if it isn't too strong,
and the higher the better. Get it close to the TR-4, and possibly wrap
a turn or two of wire around the calibrator tube, bringing the other
end near the broadcast receiver antenna. Turn on the calibrator and
adjust your wire until the calibrator signal is about the same strength
as the BC station, then adjust the calibrator until the signal is at
zero beat. Adjust as carefully as you can, if the signals are near the
same strength you'll actually be able to hear a slow variation in
amplitude when you're within a few Hz of zero.
This is far from ideal, but BC stations are very accurate. When you
calibrate at 10 MHz, you are comparing the 100th harmonic of the
calibrator to a known frequency, whereas with a broadcast station
you're only at the 10th harmonic on a 1 MHz BC station. But plenty
close enough for our purposes.
Better still is if you can borrow a receiver that covers 10 or 15 MHz,
and if you can resist adjusting the calibrator, they stay correct for a
LONG time. In fact, unless someone has been "adjusting" it, it's
probably close enough!
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com
Richard Palmer wrote:
The manual says to tune to WWV ect.ect. I'm assuming this is 10Mc. .
Can I use a signal generator set to 10Mc. and accomplish the same
desired result? I have neither of these and must buy what I need to
skin this cat. Any suggestions? One caveat... it must be inexpensive.
Thanks in advance,
Richard Palmer
KB8NXO
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Re: [Drakelist] Cleaned the TR-4
Thanks Gary, Next month (2 weeks) I need to get a half dozen tubes. Should the 12AX7A's be matched? I only need one. Garey Barrell wrote: Richard - The ZERO adjust should not affect the PLATE meter, only the S-Meter. There is some _mechanical_ interaction between the two movements, but in transmit the plate meter should read cathode current of the Final only, and the S-Meter should indicate ALC action. In receive, the S-Meter should indicate signal strength and the PLATE meter will _slightly_ react to movement of the S-Meter. So the correct setting of the ZERO pot is as described below and in the manual. The only adjustment for the PLATE meter is by selecting R13, which was selected at final test. The only reason to change it is if R45 has changed value with age or overload, or has been replaced. It's best to calibrate the meter to read 0.1A correctly, since that is critical to proper operation of the Final stage, and the meter is NOT a high quality item and is somewhat inaccurate over it's entire range. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: Gary, Since I cleaned it I knew where it was. I noticed that the zero adjust affected the meter's reading of the bias also ... so I wanted to get it set correctly. Thanks for your help, Richard Palmer Garey Barrell wrote: Richard - The S-Meter is Zero'd with the cleverly disguised ZERO control on the right side of the chassis.!! :-) Disconnect antenna, detune RF TUNE control, and adjust ZERO control for S1 on the meter. There is no S0 on Drake meters! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: There is on thing that is not spelled out. Zeroing the meter. I cleaned all the pots and when I went to zero the meter I found nothing to help me determine the proper setting. So any help there is appreciated. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Cleaned the TR-4
Gary, Since I cleaned it I knew where it was. I noticed that the zero adjust affected the meter's reading of the bias also ... so I wanted to get it set correctly. Thanks for your help, Richard Palmer Garey Barrell wrote: Richard - The S-Meter is Zero'd with the cleverly disguised ZERO control on the right side of the chassis.!! :-) Disconnect antenna, detune RF TUNE control, and adjust ZERO control for S1 on the meter. There is no S0 on Drake meters! 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Richard Palmer wrote: There is on thing that is not spelled out. Zeroing the meter. I cleaned all the pots and when I went to zero the meter I found nothing to help me determine the proper setting. So any help there is appreciated. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Cleaned the TR-4
Wow. What a difference! Let me preface this by saying my antenna is a brass slinky in my attic.. about 20 ft up. I have just about crowded conditions on 40 and 80m tonight. I don't think there was this much activity on 20m when I first plugged it back in around 1300hrs. I can't find the right words to describe the change in the transceiver's quality and ability to receive. As a new-be to Drakes I was a bit surprised at cleaning the relay K1. I have the earliest TR-4 and getting that plastic cover off qualifies as a PITA. There were some gouge marks in it from someone else, so I guess I had better luck than they did. There is on thing that is not spelled out. Zeroing the meter. I cleaned all the pots and when I went to zero the meter I found nothing to help me determine the proper setting. So any help there is appreciated. All my hinkey behavior is gone. Saturday I test for my upgrade so hopefully I will be on the air with it soon. FWIW I am the proud new owner of a Jackson 648 S. The tube chart is dated 02/70 and it handles all my tubes. So thanks to all here for the help, words of wisdom and encouragement. Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] What circa tube tester?
I hope this is not off topic. With the use of vintage being used for all Drakes and tube testers, many from the 1940's and before, up to the last ones made, it has become impossible for me to determine what will service my early TR-4. I have spent hours and hours looking up tube testers by type, make and model. I have spent hours squinting at pictures trying to count socket pins. I am burnt out and am looking for help in finding just where to look. I have no idea if post WWII testers even test 9 pins, or if all 7 pins are of the same size. Richard Palmer KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Rubber feet?
I recently acquired my first tube radio station. A TR-4/RV-4/AC-4. Everything seems to work as it should. My question is one only a rookie would ask, and I'm sorry to ask but I have looked everywhere I can find, without any luck. Should the AC-4 have rubber feet on it? Mine does not and when I put it inside the RV-4 I have a vibrational hum that is not acceptable. Thanks KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Rubber feet?
Ok. Thanks all. I did not know the AC-4 was securely mounted to the chassis of the RV-4 with screws. I was just sliding it in there. I see I have the threaded type mount power supply. I also see that the feet on the RV-4 are nutted. So I'll try to screw the RV-4's rear feet into the bottom of the AC-4. That is two mount point short I know. BTW. I read this all day long and am learning a lot, fast. Thanks again. Kb8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Rubber feet?
The TR-4 has 6 rubber feet (sorta). On the rear there is one in each corner and in the front there are two stacked in each corner. This raises the front to an angle. The RV-4 has rubber feet in both corners up front that look very similar to the ones on the TR-4. And in the rear corners there are the half rubber ball feet. I was told the SK who last owned this station, ran the power supply out side of the case. The AC-4 is without feet. So it looks like I'm just a couple of power supply feet short. The power supply has no real vibration to the touch. But putting inside of the RV-4 without feet and having it rest in the nutted studs from the half round feet on the rear of the RV-4 creates a vibration that sounds like AC hum. This is still new to me and I will take care of this rubber footing when I do a maintenance cleaning (it needs it) next month. Thanks for the information. I now know how it was meant to be. Rick KB8NXO -- The law, in its majestic equality, forbids the rich as well as the poor to sleep under bridges, to beg in the streets, and to steal bread. - Anatole France ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
