Re: [Drakelist] Any ideas about building a Q multiplier for a Drake 2B?

[LeeCraner]

Steve,
 
There's nothing special about the Drake Q multiplier.  You should be  able 
to use just about any 455 KHz Q multiplier with the 2B.  The Heathkit  
various versions are plentiful and work well (I have one hooked one up to my  
HRO-60).
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 8/7/2015 6:31:43 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
vk...@arach.net.au writes:

 
 
G’day
 
Greetings from Glen Forrest, Western Australia!
 
I have a nice Drake 2B here, for which I’ve been looking for a 2AQ/2BQ Q  
Multiplier for some time. 
 
After coming to the conclusion that there were a heap of other 2B owners  
all looking for 2BQs and the chance of finding one was probably less than 
zero  at a price I could afford, it occurred to me that I could find a nice old 
 external speaker and build a Q multiplier inside it.  
 
My other conclusion was if any had built a Q multiplier for a 2B, this  
list was a really good place to ask about designs, parts and ideas!
 
Please, if anyone has done this or has any ideas about doing this, could  
they drop me a line?
 
Thank you!
 
Vy 73
 
Steve VK6VZ/G3ZZD




 

 (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)  
This  email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
_www.avast.com_ (https://www.avast.com/antivirus)   


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Re: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations?

[LeeCraner]

Tom,
 
Welcome home.  
 
As an owner of the TR-7 for 30 years, I can testify to what a great rig  
they are.  
 
I'd highly recommend looking for a TR-7 with a "3 piece" back panel.   That 
signifies a later version that will have the minor improvements that were  
made over the years.  The A model, as previously recommended, would of  
course have all of the improvements, a noise blanker and a CW filter (unless  
they were removed by a prior owner).  Unfortunately, the A model typically  
commands a much higher price due to its collectability.
 
As to accessories, the noise blanker is now fairly worthless.  It was  
designed for the Russian Woodpecker, and did a great job.  But it  doesn't do a 
great job on atmospheric noises.  Accessory filters  are readily available 
for the TR-7 at around $40 each.  So if you find  a rig without the filters, 
it isn't that great a problem.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW  
 
 
In a message dated 3/22/2013 2:43:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tbran...@alvincollege.edu writes:



Good afternoon everyone,

After a long absence from  ham radio I am excited about re-entering the 
hobby and I am interested in  acquiring a TR-7.  It was my dream radio when 
career took me away from  the hobby.

Any words of wisdom you may have about the TR-7 would be  most welcome.
Is there anything I should particularly look for in a  potential purchase? 
Any thoughts
on what a TR-7 and power supply in good  condition would cost? There is 
what appears to be a very nice one listed on  EBay at
the moment.

Thanks and 73's

Tom
Ex  WD5DFE




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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7

[LeeCraner]

This is typical behavior when the circuit board contacts need to be  
cleaned.  Open it up and pull, then reseat every plug in board.  You  might 
also 
spray a wee bit of DeOxit on the board contacts.  Don't forget  to do this to 
the boards under the horizonal digital display board and the power  supply 
board in the front corner (right side when you're facing the front  panel).
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 12/10/2012 6:18:11 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
jobe.beck...@comcast.net writes:

I have a TR-7 that has the DDS board installed.  It seems to me that it is 
working in split mode. It receives fine but when you  key the MIc the 
digital display changes and it starts to act as if it is  scanning.


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Re: [Drakelist] Neutralization

[LeeCraner]

Steve:
 
IMHO, neutralizing the finals with the plate and screen voltages removed is 
 the quickest way to neutralize and the easiest on the finals.  Several  
older rigs have a final voltage disconnect plug to accomplish this (e.g. 
Central  Electronics) and I always build in a similar disconnect on my homebrew 
 
transmitters. 
 
Richard's cautions are well placed, you've got to remove BOTH the plate and 
 screen supplies and both are at high voltage so caution is advised (also, 
make  sure the HV caps have dissipated).
 
You'll need to measure the RF voltage at the output of the final amp.   The 
easiest place to get this at the antenna connection and the easiest way to  
read it is with a scope (though most instructions will have you construct a 
low  reading RF volt meter with a uA meter, diode and capacitor).  Just 
remember  that you will be tuning the final for maximum RF, then neutralizing 
for minimum  RF.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 10/23/2012 9:10:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
1oldle...@ix.netcom.com writes:


- Original Message - 
From: "Steve"  
To: 
Sent:  Tuesday, October 23, 2012 6:17 PM
Subject: [Drakelist]  Neutralization


>I have a Drake T4 that needs neutralization  .  I have tried 
>the approach given in the manual and while it  seems to work 
>I thought I might use this as an opportunity to learn  how 
>to do what is called a Cold Tube neutralization where you  
>do not apply High Voltage to the plate.  Seems that you can  
>Neutralize the tube with only filament voltage, bias and  
>screen voltages applied.  Has anyone done this and if so  
>what is the preferred method of doing it.
>
> Steve  NU0P

I think this is a confusion of the traditional  method 
of neutralizing where the tube is fed with FR but with no 
plate  or screen voltage. You can remove the screen voltage 
and neutralize with  plate connected or disconnect both but 
if you remove plate voltage without  also removing screen 
voltage the tube will burn up.
The idea is to set up the amplifier for normal drive 
and tuning and then  disconnect the HV. Then measure the feed 
through of RF on the plate side  and adjust the neutralizing 
capacitor for minimum feed through  The  neutralizing 
capacitor forms a bridge circuit with the interelectrode  
capacitance of the tube and is adjusted to balance to 
prevent positive  feedback from output to input with 
consequent oscillation.
Some care is necessary because you can't disable the HV  
supply in the small Drake transmitters so you must 
disconnect it at  the feed-through caps for the tubes. That 
is dangerous both because its a  shock hazard and because of 
the danger of accidental shorting of the  supply.
The handbook method is fussy but  works.


--
Richard Knoppow
Los  Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com  


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Re: [Drakelist] Pertaining to Dial Scale and S-meter lighting question by Al, ...

[LeeCraner]

Dick:
 
Drop Steve, KG9BV, an email at _kg9bv@yahoo.com_ (mailto:kg...@yahoo.com) . 
 He sells the blue  filter material specifically to fix your problem.  Last 
I checked it was  quite reasonable.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 7/18/2012 3:48:33 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
conklin.rich...@mchsi.com writes:

I'm in  the process of restoring a TR-4Cx. Here are my unedited 7/15/2012 
notes  concerning lighting differences:
"The illumination color is different for  the panel frequency dials on the 
right (bluish-white) and the receive signal  strength & transmitter plate 
current meters on the left  (warm-white).  Turns out that the blue-green gel 
between the pilot lamp  and the meters has faded to clear in the center.  I 
have no idea where to  get replacement gel material. (Perhaps a theater 
lighting supplier?) 
[Unit  would probably appear a bit better if both gels were replaced with a 
matching  close color gel.]"

I believe this has been caused by the closer  proximity of the gel to the 
pilot lamp on the S-meter assembly. 

Dick  Conklin, WA2WGY/9

--  




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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[LeeCraner]

Richard,
 
Was your issue ever resolved?  If so, resolution?
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 5/20/2012 1:48:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
richardvk...@gmail.com writes:

My TR-7  is completely dead.  I've carefully checked the power
supply ... and  the problem is not there.  13.5 volts is getting through
to the  rig.  No lights or display come on or anything.  No sound  from
the speaker.  Reading Ronald's (WB4HFN) article on "Inside the  Drake
TR-7 transceiver", he suggests that I try the 5 amp fuse which  is
underneath the top cover on the rig at the front.  Replacement  is
possible for the double-jointed it seems. It is located  almost
underneath the digital display board.

Does this fuse fail  frequently?  Is it a slow-blo type ... or just a
regular auto-type  fuse (3AG)?  Is there anything to be gained by upping
it to 7.5A or  even 10A?


Many thanks for your  help

73

Richard
VK1RJ


-- 
--
Eraina &  Richard Jenkins
Canberra
'richardirena' on skype ... if at home  ...
+

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Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.

[LeeCraner]

Perhaps someone on the list would supply you with hi res photos of the  
underneath of their SPR-4.  I'm sure that would prove extremely helpful in  
getting lead dress right, etc..  Just a thought.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
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Re: [Drakelist] I've got a job ahead of me.

[LeeCraner]

Steve,
 
Keep the faith.  In my opinion, you've better off restoring a rig with  
excellent cosmetics that needs electrical repair than the other way  around.  
You can never make a worn front panel or rusty chassis new  again.  With 
time, patience and some skill, you can always restore the  electronics.
 
73
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Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 pushbuttons....

[leecraner]

Are these not the same push buttons used on the rest of the 7 line?  They 
should be plentiful.  Who was looking for them?

73
Lee WB6SSW





-Original Message-
From: Curt Nixon 
To: Don Cunningham 
Cc: drakelist 
Sent: Fri, Aug 19, 2011 10:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 pushbuttons


If you really must have an exact duplicate, if you have one good one, 
ou can use urethane casting resin.  First, using the good part, you 
ake a mold set from silicone molding material, then cast the resin into 
he mold.  I have made duplicate keyboard caps for specialty industrial 
utomation keyboards for CNC machines this way and you can't tell the 
ifference.  It would cost in the area of 50-75 bucks for a kit with all 
aterials required.  Expensive but a perfect match.
Curt
U8L

Don Cunningham wrote:
 Fred,
 I should stress, use a LITTLE expxy on those lids or they are 
 permanent, hi. Someone years ago went the trouble of somehow filling 
 those hollow pen caps with a resin of some sorts and inserted shafts 
 in the uncured resin and had a nice fit when they cured up.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Drakelist] My Drake at Field Day

[LeeCraner]

 
Years ago, I participated in a Field Day, back when the Kenwood TS940 was  
fairly new.  The Kenwood was to be our primary rig and I brought my "old"  
TR7, more as an afterthought, to be a back up rig.
 
As you might guess, the Kenwood had trouble and we ended up operating the  
entire weekend on the Drake.
 
Still have that Drake and it still chugs along.  His Kenwood is long  gone.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Sidetones (was Ten-Tec and Drake Compared)

[LeeCraner]

Darrell,
 
I agree with you 100% on the lack of sidetone, etc. on vintage  equipment.  
When I completed my "ultimate boatanchor CW transmitter" last  year, I 
included sidetone, pumped through the matching homebrew receiver's audio  and 
well as the muting you mentioned.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared

[LeeCraner]

This is a great thread!
 
In the late '70's, I had a KWM-2A, remote VFO, etc.;  all  Collins.  I 
decide to get back into CW, so, of course, the KWM-2A had to go  (for those who 
don't know, the KWM's really don't do CW in spite of the CW  switch position 
on the mode switch).  After doing a lot of research, I  traded the Collins 
for a C line, my first Drakes.  I never regretted the  decision.
 
It was only after I wanted to try RTTY that I traded the C line for a 7  
line.  That was back in 1982.  I still have the 7 line and it remains  my main 
SSB/RTTY rig (I use a homebrew setup for CW, just 'cause).  That  should 
say something about Drake reliability, not to mention my fondness for  Drakes.
 
Oh, by the way, I also own a KWM-380.  I still use the 7 line and  prefer 
the 7 line.  The only reason for the Collins is it is at my second  home and 
it is nice to have a rig in one package (i.e. built in power supply)  and I 
don't have much room for a shack in that second home.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Sticky finish

[LeeCraner]

The earlier TR-7 line cabinets featured a new durable paint that was to  
better the epoxy C line finish.  Unfortunately, over time, the paint became  
"sticky."
 
Check out _www.wb4hfn.com_ (http://www.wb4hfn.com)  for a  solution to this 
problem.
 
Apparently, Drake recognized the problem and during the mid 7 line  
production, switched to a new paint that eliminated the problem.  Thus  today, 
Drake 7 line equipment is sold in two versions, sticky and non sticky  paint.
 
The 7 line was originally offered in a dark gray cabinet finish.  The  
replacement cases that Drake later sold were flat black.  Therefore, you'll  
actually see Drake 7 lines with three different cabinets, the original stick  
gray paint, the later non stick gray paint and the replacement cabinet, non  
sticky black paint.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Carrier Balance adjustment on a TR7

[LeeCraner]

Michael:
 
To answer your general question, no you don't need the extension cards or  
DR7 jumper to perform any alignment adjustments on the TR7.  The jumper  
cards were provided for troubleshooting and repair.
 
Follow Jim's advice and you should be carrier free.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7A Shutting Down At High Power

[LeeCraner]

Also have your friend check his grounding.  Stray RF getting into the  PS-7 
will also shut it down.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 refurb

[LeeCraner]

Randy,
 
If the "sticky paint" is the problem, give Claudio's (I4YHH) solution a  
try:
 
_http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/StickPaintFix.htm_ 
(http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/StickPaintFix.htm) 
 
It does actually work!
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Those Dishpan hands.. er radios

[LeeCraner]

FWIW, I do use the dishwasher for HRO capacitors with the  PW gear box  
attached (cover removed).  Just did one this Sunday.  Does wonders for  
removing decades of gunk and dried up grease.  
 
The XYL was skeptical the first time I did it.  Now, its just, "I  think 
your parts are done.  Can I have my dishwasher back?"
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] PTO/VFO

[LeeCraner]

A PTO is a type or style of VFO.  Drake uses them  interchangebly.
 
There is no synthesizer noise from the R4 series VFO/PFO's.  They're  solid 
state for stability.  (The FS-4 accessory synthesizer is another  story as 
to noise).
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Six Meter Options

[leecraner]

Drake gave you two avenues, the TR6, a TR4 strictly for 6 meters, and the 
TC6/CC1 combo, a 6 meter transverter and a receive convertor.? Prices for the 
TR6 used to be astronomical, but seems to have settle down.? The TC6 and CC1's 
prices still seem to be high.? (The CC1 accomodated 2 and 6 meter receive 
convertors and an xtal calibrator)
?
73
Lee WB6SSW




-Original Message-
From: Kevin Nathan 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Dec 31, 2010 10:50 am
Subject: [Drakelist] Six Meter Options

Hi All,
?
First of all, happy New Year to everyone!? Thanks for your help and advice 
throughout the year.
?
Now to my question.? I now have a C line station running well and I like it 
very much.? I use it primarily on AM and really like the vintage radio 
activities.? I now have two other AM stations one of which I am going to sell 
at an upcoming ham fest.? I am active on a six meter AM group here and would 
like to land some sort of vintage six meter station, preferably some sort of 
transceiver that will work well on true AM.? My question is, what did Drake 
offer along that line?? If not Drake, what else might you recommend to me?
?
"Thanks and very 73.
?
Kevin :)
Amateur Radio:? K7RX
?
?

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Cabinet painting

[LeeCraner]

Go to Ron's site, _www.wb4hfn.com_ (http://www.wb4hfn.com)  and  read the 
article about using "Easy Off Oven Cleaner" for removing the  stickiness.  I 
tried this on an old beat up TR-7 case and it really  worked.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 vs.6JB6A

[LeeCraner]

There is a write up from Bill Frost on Drake's final matching procedure,  
and Bill's recommendations on how we should be doing it, on N9BOR's Drake  
website, _http://www.qsl.net/n9bor/drake.htm_ 
(http://www.qsl.net/n9bor/drake.htm) .   It is worth a look.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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[Drakelist] Sticky Case Repair - A Testimonial

[LeeCraner]

On Ron's web site, _www.wb4hfn.com_ (http://www.wb4hfn.com) ,  Claudio 
Pocaterra, I4YHH offers a solution to the 7 line's sticky case  problem.
 
It takes a little "Easy Off" oven cleaner (the "Fume Free" version, not the 
 original version) and some Armor All.  Believe it or not, it works!
 
One does have to wonder how Claudio came up with this solution,  though.  
Is he a brilliant chemist that zeroed in on the right chemical on  the first 
try, or did he try everything in the kitchen before discovering  something 
that really worked?
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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[Drakelist] WTB: Concentric knobs for the TR-7

[LeeCraner]

Hello list members:
 
I need one set of the concentric knobs from a TR-7 (e.g. the RF/AF gain  
knobs, etc.).  Will buy outright or trade for something you need from my  
stash of my Drake spares.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] BIG FOOT?

[LeeCraner]

I think you'rfe right, Garey.  Somewhere I've got those spacers; maybe  I 
should take a look at them, hi.  Come to think of it, somewhere I've also  
got the metal strips to hold the half height 7 line cabinets together.  If  I 
ever find a reasonably priced SP-75, I could put them to use.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] BIG FOOT?

[LeeCraner]

If I recall correctly, these disks were designed to bring the back feet of  
the shorter equipment (speakers, etc.) in line with the xcvr's etc. when 
the  front feet were doubled up.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Practical?

[LeeCraner]

Curt,
 
Absolutely practical.
 
I've owned mine since 1981 and it has given me very little problem.   
Several years ago, I located a TR-7 parts rig, working, just extremely abused,  
for $100.  It is now my source for spare parts, and I've only had to dig  
into once, for a failed cap in the low pass filter assembly.  The  beauty of 
having a spare parts rig is the ability to simply swap out board (most  of the 
time) rather than diagnose a problem to a component, such as your earlier  
Drake equipment
 
As to price, $400-600 plus another $100 for the power supply seems to be  
the average.  And speaking of the power supply, you will definitely want to  
buy the PS-7.  It is bullet proof.  You'll also want to put a fan on  the 
back of the TR-7 if it doesn't come with one.  Not necessary, but a fan  will 
preserve the PA indefinitely.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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[Drakelist] FS TR-4CW/RIT at Dayton

[LeeCraner]

Hello List,
 
I've shipped my TR-4CW/RIT w/AC-4 to Dayton.  It will be in space  FW0937.  
Nice cosmetics, fully working with brand new Sylvania finals and  the 
original manual.  No noise blanker, (unless I get lucky and find one  there).  
$649.
 
If you're interested and can find us, give me a call on my cell  
310-770-1945 on Friday or Saturday.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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[Drakelist] TR-7 1000 Hz filter?

[LeeCraner]

I was documenting my ham equipment for insurance and estate planning  
purposes the other day and started wondering how common the 1000 Hz filter is 
in  
my TR-7.  I can't remember the last time I saw one for sale.   It's kind of 
an odd ball bandwidth, too narrow for SSB and a bit too wide for CW  and 
170 Hz shift RTTY.  
 
Thoughts?
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake C4 Clock Question

[LeeCraner]

Joe:
 
My Penwood 24 hr Numerchron clock that I acquired about a year ago was  
extremely noisy and running erratic.  Here's how lubricated the sealed  gearbox.
 
1. Removed the gearbox from the rest of the clock.
2. Placed the gearbox on a 60W lightbulb to heat it up.
3. Used Q tips to wipe up the old lubrication that oozed out of it  (though 
there wasn't much that came out).
4. Removed the gearbox from the lightbulb, and while it cooled, kept adding 
 drops of TriFlo lubricant around the whole surrounding the small metal 
gear,  until it wouldn't suck in anymore (the cooling clock creates a vacuum 
that helps  draw in the oil).
5.  Wiped up the excess TriFlo and reinstalled the gearbox.
 
I understand that some of these gearboxes have a small hole on the back to  
help accomplish the above.
 
That was about a year ago and the clock still runs quite and keeps perfect  
time.  
 
The above procedure isn't mine, I read it somewhere and have lost the  
reference, but it does work.
 
73 es GL
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7

[LeeCraner]

To add to Garey's words of wisdom, don't forget to pull and reseat the  
regulator and power supply boards (being careful not to move any of those pesky 
 pots).  I had the "random digits" in my R-7A that was quickly solved once 
I  reseated these boards.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] C-line vs TR-7

[LeeCraner]

After reading Max's inquiry this morning (PST) I've been stewing on  what 
my 2 cents would be.  But Jim said it all.  
 
Back in '82 I sold my C line to finance my 7 line  purchase.  I still have 
the 7 line and wouldn't give it up for any rig  now offered (or offered in 
the past;  I sold my KWM-2A to finance the C  line, without any subsequent 
regrets).  The 7 line still is a  perfect station for me; it has met all my 
needs for 28 years. 
 
That said, I miss the C line and have always been sorry I let it go,  and 
for all the reasons that Jim mentioned.  
 
I would also support the comments that both rigs are rugged and  easy to 
maintain.  For involved repairs on the 7 line, you'll need the  extender 
boards, but in 28 years, I've never had to use my set of boards (if  anyone 
wants 
and original set of Drake TR-7 boards, in their original  unopened box. . 
.talk to my widow, hi).  Both rigs are straight forward to  align.  The TR-7 
also has its flaky DR-7 display issue, but the well known  fix of simply 
pulling the board and reseating it, makes it a non-issue. 
 
So my advise?  Figure out how you can hold on to  the C line and still get 
the 7 line, then decide for yourself which suits  your operating style and 
need.  
 
73 es GL
Lee WB6SSW 
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[Drakelist] Resolution: Need Copy of the LA-7 Line Amplifier Manual

[LeeCraner]

 
 

Thanks to Keith K0GNW, I received a copy of the instruction sheet for the  
LA-7 Line Amplifier and the instruction sheet resolved my issue of  
distorted audio when the LA-7 is used with the R-7 receiver..
 
For the benefit of those on the reflector who would hook up an LA-7 to an  
R-7 receiver, the LA-7 needs to be opened up and a jumper moved from a post  
marked "TR" (i.e. TR-7) to Rcvr (i.e. R-7).  That places a 100K resistor in 
 line with the audio input of the R-7, reducing gain to the correct level 
and  increasing isolation between the receiver and the amplifier.  After 
making  the switch, my LA-7/R-7A worked perfect.
 
Thanks for your response to my request, Keith!
 
73
Lee WB6SSW

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[Drakelist] Need Copy of the LA-7 Line Amplifier Manual

[LeeCraner]

I'm trying to hook up the low level audio output of my R-7A through an LA-7 
 and it is distorting the audio.  I don't have the same problem with the  
TR-7A through the LA-7.  A copy of the LA-7 instructions/schematic might  
help.
 
Does anyone have a copy or has anyone experienced a similar problem?
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] RF Signal Generator

[LeeCraner]

I would add to Dino's suggestions the URM-25/26 series of military  
generators.  Plan to spend at least $100 for one, because your going to  want 
to 
get one that is known to be working and fairly well calibrated (you can  pick 
these up at flea markets and the dwindling surplus outlets for well under  
$100, but you don't want to have to repair or calibrate one of these).
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] L4B Birth Day?

[LeeCraner]

Doc,
 
If you haven't browsed Ron's website, _www.wb4hfn.com_ 
(http://www.wb4hfn.com) , and his serial number database,  give it a try.  Ron 
has been 
collecting the serial numbers and QC date  stamps on Drake gear for quite a 
number 
of years.  According to his  database, the earliest recorded L4B reported to 
him passed final QC on Oct 1,  1969 and the lastest one on July 28, 1978.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Baking Equipment

[LeeCraner]

I see a new book on the horizon, "The Boatanchor Cookbook."  Where's  Don 
Lancaster when we really need him?  
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
PS  Don Lancaster reference is to his series of books in the  70's/80's, 
e.g. "TTL Cookbook."
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Re: [Drakelist] tomorrow

[LeeCraner]

Bill,
 
Best of luck on your retirement.  You've been a great help to me in  the 30 
years I've owned and operated Drake equipment.  Thank you.  And  thank you 
for your offer to continue that assistance to the loyal Drake  owners.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C annoyance

[LeeCraner]

Loren,
 
I've been following this thread and am glad to read that you found the  
problems.
 
FWIW, I had a similar problem with a TR-4C last year.  Finally found a  
buried connection on a terminal strip that was never soldered!  Seems that  the 
mechanical connection alone got it past QC and operated fine for thirty  
years before finally working loose enough to be intermittent.  I wish I had  
the forethought to take a picture of the connection before (finally) 
soldering  it.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] HUM

[LeeCraner]

The wiring error cited reminds me of a TR-4CW that I worked on last year.  
While clearing up another problem, the rig developed an intermittant.  
Traced it to a lead that was never soldered.  Wrapped around a terminal, but 
not 
a bit of solder was ever placed on the terminal.  Must have worked fine with 
just the "friction" fit for 30 years, until I started digging arournd, hi.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [Drakelist] Hall or Telereader 6850

[LeeCraner]

Nick,

Assuming it has a keyboard and everything works, $50-$125.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [Drakelist] Special tubes for special rigs!

[LeeCraner]

Just for the heck of it, I went on eBay and searched 5U4*, then sorted by the 
highest price.  Result, $288.00 for a single 5U4!  Part of the justification 
for the price, and I quote exactly:

"This is a more Hi-Fi sounding rectifier"

Why, oh why did Drake switch to solid state rectifiers?  What was Bob Drake 
thinking?  My TR4 audio would have so much better. . .

73
Lee WB6SSW  




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Re: [Drakelist] Special tubes for special rigs!

[LeeCraner]

Some time ago, I switched out all of the tubes in my TR-4CW to "black plate" 
tubes to make sure that the tubes are color coordinated to the Drake's black 
case.  Since then, I've got consistent "GQ" signal reports!

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake Dial

[LeeCraner]

Come Sunday, February 1st, the 2005 QST articles will be available for 
download by League members.  (OK, maybe Monday, February 2nd if everyone at the 
League is busy watching the Super Bowl).

73
Lee WB6SSW

In a message dated 01/27/2009 5:01:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
drin...@comcast.net writes:

> Jeff Covelli, WA8SAJ, wrote and a Hint (or a Kink?) in the February 
> 2005QST, 
> at page 72, describing making replacement dials.  You can't download the 
> article, but the League will sell it to you, if you want.   
> 
> I lost (or tossed) my QST copy, but I'd like to replace the dial on one of 
> my 
> R4B's.
> 
> Dan, K8WV
> 





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[Drakelist] TR4-CW Question

[LeeCraner]

I continue to restore my TR4-CW/RIT, serial number 44xxx.  So far  everything 
is falling in place, except AM receive is dead.
 
V2 is the the AM detector and first audio amp.  According to the late  
schematic, the cathode (pin 2) is connected to a 0.001 cap that floats in the  
SSB 
mode and is grounded in the CW-X and AM-X modes.  However, in my rig,  pin 2 
has both a 0.001 and 0.01 caps to ground, and placing the mode switch to  AM-X 
grounds pin 2, thus bypassing both caps.
 
Which is correct, the schematic or the rig?
 
Thanks in advance.
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] Need help for Drake retirement party

[LeeCraner]

FYI, > Ron Wysong's call is K8AY.


73
Lee WB6SSW
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Re: [Drakelist] 7-twins receiving together

[LeeCraner]

Jim:

I've you've got Ron's guts, you'd run it through the dishwasher, hi.  

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [Drakelist] 7-twins receiving together

[LeeCraner]

Jin,

Real world, I really don't see much difference in the receive of the R7 over 
the TR7.  Selectivity, of course depends upon the filters, and I do like the 
extra position available on the R7 since I work CW, RTTY and SSB.  The notch 
filter comes in handy periodically as well.  So, for me, its the added 
flexibility, rather than performance, that I like about the twins.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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[Drakelist] Wntd: 43.0 mHz Crystal for a TR-4

[LeeCraner]

I continue to resurrect this transceiver with the great help of this list.  
Now I find that the  crystal for the 28.5 mHz band (the crystal that came 
standard with the rig, not one of the accessory 10M segment crystal) is dead.  
It 
is marked 43.0 mHz.

Does anyone have a spare?

Tnx in advance, as always.

73 es Happy Thanksgiving.
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [Drakelist] Help on TR-4C--Resolved!

[LeeCraner]

Through this fine group, I was able to determine that my tank coil is OK and 
original.  Thanks to all who to the time to respond!

73
Lee WB6SSW


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[Drakelist] Help on TR-4C

[LeeCraner]

The tank coil on a TR-4C that I am restoring may have been modified by a 
previous owner.

Could someone tell me the correct total number of turns for L9 (the tank coil 
on the ceramic form in the final cage)?

Thanks in advance.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [Drakelist] SP75 Speech Processor and C Line

[LeeCraner]

John,

When I had my C Line, I used the Magnum 6 speech processor and it worked 
well.  I'm not a big fan of speech processors so I didn't use it much, just 
when I 
needed the extra punch.  It may be more affordable than the DX Engineering 
processor.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

[LeeCraner]

I second the Fluke nomination.  Big easy to read display and very bullet 
proof.  

Just about any model would work nicely for you.  Personally, I don't have the 
patience for autoranging meters and so prefer to set the range myself, and 
these tend to be a bit cheaper.

73
Lee WB6SSW  

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Re: [drakelist] Drake Twins On CW

[LeeCraner]

Has anyone else noticed the irony of a thread titled "Drake Twins on CW" 
turning to a discussion of microphones?

73 es a happy 4th to all!
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] DR-7 Display Problem

[LeeCraner]

Joe:

While there are other causes for the "flashing digits" the most common is 
simply dirty connectors on the DR-7 and/or one of the boards immediately below 
the DR-7 (I'm at work and forget which it is).

Pull the plugs from the DR-7, the one screw that holds it in place and the 
one cable that runs through the DR-7, then pull the board (be careful and don't 
damage the display LED's).  Then pull and reseat each of the boards below.  
Remount and reconnect the DR-7 (this takes a bit of finesse to get it to seat 
properly with the display LED's properly positioned).

This usually solves the problem you're experiencing.

73 es GL
Lee WB6SSW




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Re: [drakelist] L7 replacement fan FS

[LeeCraner]

Evan,

If it is still available I'll take it.  Never know when mine will go out, hi. 
 Let me know.  Thanks.

73
Lee WB6SSW




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Re: [drakelist] R-4 Series Crystal Alternatives

[LeeCraner]

The FS-4 does inject a bit of noise to the R-4_ receiver as well.  So aux 
crystals are not only cheaper but also quieter.

73
Lee WB6SSW




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Re: [drakelist] RV75

[LeeCraner]

Dick,

What is the frequency that is displayed and is it different than the two 
"fixed frequencies" that are programmed into the RV75?

If you're getting the x.150 frequency, I would suspect that the optical 
encoder circuitry is at fault (that is, you're not getting a fixed frequency as 
much as you're not able to change the power on frequency).  If you're stuck on 
one of the two programmed fixed frequencies, I would suspect the pushbuttons 
and 
their allied circuitry.

If I were to guess, I would guess the optical encoder.  A bad or misaligned 
LED or sensor would give you the problem you are experiencing.  If you have a 
scope and the schematic it should be fairly easy to follow the encoder pulses 
to see where they stop.  (If you don't have a schematic, I can scan one for you 
but it wouldn't be until next week).

One other thing you might check, inside is a switch or jumper that sets the 
RV75 for either TR5 or TR7 operation (that is, it indicates to the 'RV75 which 
way tune, since the VFO of the TR5 tuned "backwards" compared to the TR7).  I 
don't know what would happen if the switch was "mid position" but I suspect it 
would do what you are experiencing.

BTW, my adapter article that you cited is to adapt your RV75 to the R7 
receiver.

73
Lee WB6SSW



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Re: [drakelist] Vacuum Tube markings

[LeeCraner]

And another method is to rub the tube on the hairs at the back of your neck.  
The oils will help read the tube markings (amazing what we remember from the 
old days).

73
Lee WB6SSW




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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[LeeCraner]

In a message dated 11/30/2007 1:00:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> I assume you keep the Tee coax as short as possible.
> 
> 

You would want to keep the connection between the tee and the detector very 
short, ideally connect the two together without a coax cable.  

The connection between the detector and the HA8 could be any reasonable 
length I would imagine.  Since it is a detected signal, an audio grade cable 
should 
work.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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Re: [drakelist] Not a Drake question.

[LeeCraner]

The tee connector is a standard UHF tee, female/female/male (aka M358).  All 
attenuation and protection of the HA8 takes place in the diode detector.  
Simple to put together using a  "Pomona" box or surplus adapter box.

73
Lee WB6SSW

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[drakelist] Homebrew a Drake RV75/R7 Adapter

[LeeCraner]

I just finished successfully homebrewing a 1544 adapter to connect my RV75 to 
my R7A.  I prepared an article on how I did it, should anyone out there in 
Drake land wish to build their own 1544 adapter.  Just drop me an email and 
I'll 
be glad to send you a copy (an 800K .doc file).

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] An Introduction & a question about keyer for T-4XB

[LeeCraner]

Since I work on a lot of different rigs, I installed the Jackson Harbor Press 
Key All kit in my keyer (http://www.mtechnologies.com/jhp/).  This 
inexpensive kit ($13) converts about any keyer circuit to handle up to 500 V 
2.5 amp + 
or - key lines.  I figure that's about any key line I will ever encounter.

73
Lee WB6SSW




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Re: [drakelist] Speaker Question

[LeeCraner]

Don:

That's the Hal ST-8000 RTTY TU.  I painted the case flat black to match the 
Drake gear (the front panel was already black).  It was nice of Hal to be so 
accomodating wasn't it, hi.

73
Lee WB6SSW




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Re: [drakelist] Speaker Question

[LeeCraner]

>From the "for what it's worth" department:

I was actually happy with how my MS-7 sounded until I tried one of the 
speakers that AES sells (sold) for $20, their PCL-1.  I was amazed at how much 
better the TR7 sounded with the AES speaker;  much better clarity.  

I ended up buying two more of those speakers, actually from someone on the 
Internet that sells the same speak for substantially less than AES (I no longer 
have the URL though), and boxed up my MS-7's. Glad I did.

Here's my qrz link that show's a picture of the Drake gear with the speakers:
 
http://www.qrz.com/hampix/w/s/wb6ssw.1160797746.jpg

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] DL-300

[LeeCraner]

Glad your needs were filled, Hunter.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] DL-300

[LeeCraner]

There was no real manual, just a one page one sided instruction sheet that 
served for both the DL-300 and DL-1000.  I can fax it to you right now, or scan 
and email it to you on Tuesday night, your choice.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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[drakelist] FS: TR-7 manual

[LeeCraner]

I have a nice originial TR-7 operator's manual with the TR-7A supplement page 
for sale.  I'd like $15.00 plus what ever it costs to ship it to you.

73
Lee WB6SSW



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Re: [drakelist] Passband adjust on tr7

[LeeCraner]

Check out the article at:

http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/passband.html

Follow it and you'll be back on track, David.

73
Lee WB6SSW

n a message dated 08/24/2007 3:52:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> Hi, have a tr7 that works great, except I've noticed when switching from 
> Lsb to Usb, there is quite a bit of difference in the sound (PBT is off).  
> Had 
> this issue with alignment on a R2000 before and the fix is to adjust the 
> balance trimmer until you hear the same pitch.  If I switch in the PBT 
> control 
> and adjust, I can set it just fine, but it is not balanced.  Whats the fix 
> for 
> this?  I do have the service manual, but I was not clear if I needed to do a 
> full alignment or not.  I hesitate to go completely through it, since it 
> works fine, and, as good or better receive than my new radios.  Thanks,
>  David
>  Wd9cmd
> 



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but a whole lot of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.



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Re: [drakelist] TR-7 / DR-7

[LeeCraner]

Jack:

Try this:  unplug that blue wire on the DR7 that goes to the low pass filter 
and ground it.  If the display problem stops, deoxit the bandswitch.

If that doesn't solve the problem, try resoldering the 9 pins on the upper 
left edge of the DR-7 near U9003.  These pins apparently had a flow solder 
problem on some TR7's.

If that doesn't solve the problem and you find that the VCO signal is low, as 
mentioned in another response (s/b at least 0.4vp-p on pin 13 of U9010) check 
U9010.

The above are from notes I took on suggestions from John Loughmiller KB9AT 
when my rig had similar problems (solution to mine was to resolder those 9 
pesky 
pins).

73 es GL
Lee WB6SSW



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[drakelist] New Drakes

[LeeCraner]

Bill,

Congratulations on the acquisition.

For cleaning the case and front panel, I just wash them in the kitchen sink 
with mild dishsoap and warm water, using a terry cloth rag.  Fortunately, the 
Drake front panels come off readily for this procedure.  Use that air gun to 
blow out the water from the lips of the case.

I won't venture a suggestion on chassis cleaning.  Everyone seems to have 
their pet ways of accomplishing this but I have always been leery about 
anything 
other than mild cleaner and q tips.  Not very effective, but safe.

For switches and pots I use Deoxit, and I'm sure that will be most everyone's 
choice.

The W4 price is about the ball park.  I've seen several go for less on eHam 
and several go for more on eBay.  And with the MN2000 wattmeter and the W4 in 
line, one on forward and one on reflected power, it's a snap to adjust the 
MN2000.

I've owned a couple FS4's.  They are scarce and in demand.  If you really 
want to go full general coverage, it's a way to go.  But the FS-4 does generate 
some noise and the R4B is one of the best sounding receivers out there, so I'm 
not so sure the FS4 is the best way to go, especially if you just want the 
WARC bands and maybe a few shortwave bands.  Just add the appropriate crystals.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] TR7 at FD

[LeeCraner]

Larry,

Good idea, Larry.  I'll be interested in reading about the results.  

Years ago I brought my TR7 to field day as a backup rig to a then new Kenwood 
TS940.  We ended up abandoning the 940 in favor of the TR7.  Though the 940 
wasn't menu driven, the TR7 just all around performed better.

73 
Lee WB6SSW

In a message dated 06/19/2007 1:20:53 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> I'm bringing my TR7 to FD after a 20 year absence (the rig, not me)
> 
> When an operator sits down at an unfamiliar MENU-DRIVEN rig he has a hard 
> time 
> figuring out what to do.
> So I want to see the reaction to having dedicated push buttons and knobs.
> I want to compare it with the "modern" rigs under battle conditions, too.
> 
> 73 and GL on FD
> 
> Larry K3VX 
> CW op at N3SH
> 




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Re: [drakelist] Drake logbooks - Sold out

[LeeCraner]

Joe:

Glad to see that all the logbooks are gone.  You took a risk in putting this 
run together, so I'm glad that you didn't get stuck with any.

Nice job too, Joe.  Mine arrived last week.  As with others, the postal 
service was a bit rough on them, but there were two that came out unscathed, 
which 
are the two that I'm putting away for "keeps."  The other three I intended on 
actually using, so they'll work out just fine.

Again, thanks, Joe for the effort!

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] New-Old Logbooks

[LeeCraner]

In a message dated 05/15/2007 8:58:09 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> For one, I'm planning on using mine.

Now there's a concept, hi!  

Actually, I'm planning on using mine as well.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] Noise Blanker discussion

[LeeCraner]

The comments on the TR4_/R4_ blanker also apply to the TR7_/R7_ blanker:  
great for pulse noise, ineffectual for atmospherics.  The TR7 blanker was 
designed during the days of the Russian Woodpecker and was amazingly effective 
against it.  The best classic rig for noise control I've used was the Atlas 
350XL;  
had a blanker for impulse noise and a limiter for atmospherics (at least 
that's my recollection; haven't used one since switching to the TR7 twenty some 
years ago, hi).

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] Power Supply for TR-7(a)

[LeeCraner]

My two cents, a linear (aka analog) power supply, especially the PS-7 will be 
far more trouble free than a switching supply.  I've been running the same 
PS-7 since 1982, mainly on 100% duty cycle RTTY, without one problem.  I doubt 
that any switching supply would have come close to that MTBF.

73
Lee WB6SSW


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Re: [drakelist] WH7 and SP75 manual copies

[LeeCraner]

The manuals have a new home.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] WH7 and SP75 manual copies

[LeeCraner]

I just found a Xerox copy of each of WH7 and SP75 manuals in my files.  I 
don't need them.  Does anyone out there need them?

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] A Better 7 Line VFO Knob

[LeeCraner]

I've operated the 7 Line for going on 25 years.  As much as I love the rig, I 
have always thought that the VFO knob was on the small side and the finger 
hole too shallow, especially to get full use of the RV75's variable rate tuning,

Tyco/Alcoswitch makes a machined aluminum knob virtually identical to the 7 
Line's original knob, their part number KN1751BS1/4.  This knob is five times 
heavier than the original Drake knob, giving a flywheel effect that is 
definitely an improvement.  However this knob has gotten to be expensive, over 
$30 at 
Mouser, and the finger hole is too shallow for my finger.

I think I may have found an even better solution than the Alco knob.  I 
recently ordered from Surplus Sales of Nebraska the VFO knob for the Collins 
KWM-380 ($18/ea new).  It's bigger than the original 7 Line knob, much bigger.  
And 
I no longer have 1 kHz analog markings on the old knob's skirt.  But the extra 
diameter is just what I was looking for and the finger hole is nice and deep. 
 The color of the Collins knob is great match to the 7 Line's color, too.  
Here's a link to a picture of knob on the 7 Line:

http://www.members.aol.com/leecraner/Knob.jpg

In order to retain the analog dial tracking without the Drake knob skirt, I 
had to add a 3/8" (ID) O ring behind the new knob:

http://www.members.aol.com/leecraner/Oring.jpg

I recognize that modifying a rig, especially a venerable one such as the TR7, 
is not for everyone.  However, for my old fingers, the new knob is a definite 
improvement.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] FS: Alco Aluminum VFO Knobs

[LeeCraner]

I have two of the Tyco/Alcoswitch black anodized machined aluminum knobs for 
sale that are the same size as the original Drake VFO knob (mfg part number 
KN1751BS1/4).   It used to be a somewhat common practice to change the Drake 
knob for the Alco knob when they were reasonably priced.  Mouser's price is now 
$31/each.  $15/ea plus $2 for shipping.  Picture at 
http://www.members.aol.com/leecraner/drakeknob.jpg.

73
Lee WB6SSW

Re: [drakelist] What parts to have handy

[LeeCraner]

Ron:

You've actually hit upon the three items I would keep on hand for my TR7, the relay, the finals and spare seven segment displays (or a spare DR7).  I'm with you in wanting to make sure I had backups to keep my rig running, so I went out and purchased a very dirty but functional TR7 for a very reasonable price, just so I have a spare of everything.  The only thing I've had to replace after owning a TR7 since 1982 was the speaker (the cone "developed" a tear, though I can't fathom how or why) and the blue filters (which I'm really thinking about removing and going the blue LED route next time).

73
Lee WB6SSW  

Re: [drakelist] R7 questions

[LeeCraner]

James:

The R7A operator's manual that came with my R7A is an amended R7 manual.  The table of contents contains the following wording:

R7/R7A Supplement

The following accessories and modifications have been added to update your R7 to an R7A for more versatility.
   1) A noise blanker (NB7A) has been installed.
   2) A 500 Hz filter (SL500) haws been installed in selectivity position marked .5.
   3)  The selectivity position marked 4 has been adapted to provide a bandwidth of 9 kHz for AM reception.

My R7 service manual is dated 1979 as well.  My RR3 manual (commercial marine R7) is dated 1980, but I haven't seen any differences in the circuits common to the R7 (the alignment error that has been discussed here is also present in the RR3 manual).

73
Lee WB6SSW

Re: [drakelist] R7 audio

[LeeCraner]

Dick:

There is an error in the R7 alignment instructions in the R7 service manual.  If someone ever followed these instructions on your or Everet's R7 in the past, the R7 would sound just as you described.

I have the correction to the instructions at home.   Right now I'm traveling and can't get to them for a week.  Once I'm back home, I'll look it up and send it to you.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Re: MIKE ELLIOTT, W8KRR, SILENT KEY

[LeeCraner]

Mike also designed the TR-5.

When I sent a request out on this list sometime ago asking for "anyone familiar with the TR5" Mike responded "I designed it.  What would you like to know about it."  In subsequent emails he answered my specific questions.  It's a real gentleman that volunteers to help without being asked.  Our community will surely miss him.

Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Any TR5 operators out there?

[LeeCraner]

If you have experience operating a TR5, please drop me a line.  I'd like to "compare notes" with you.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Missing R7 Alignment Instruction Resolved?

[LeeCraner]

If you've ever tried to align your R7, you've undoubtedly noticed that there is a missing step in section 3-10 of the alignment instruction.  Specifically, 3-10 b) instructs you to "Adjust AGC bias pot (R1127) fully clockwise" but then it never tells you how to reset the pot.  In other words, if you follow the instructions, R1127 is left fully clockwise.

After some experimentation, I think I've resolved the error.  I'd like your input to my corrections to section 3-10, reproducted below.  Corrections are in italics.  If you copy of this does not show the italics, the corrections I've added are steps i. and ii, to step b., the parenthetical text in steps c., d. and e. and all of step h.

73
Lee WB6SSW
___

a) Connect an audio voltmeter across R7 speaker terminals.

b) Adjust AGC bias pot (R1127) fully clockwise.
   i) Adjust IF gain pot (R1138) fully counterclockwise.
   ii) With no signal applied to the R7 antenna terminal, adjust AGC bias pot (R1227) counterclockwise until background noise audio output just begins to fall as indicated on the audio voltmeter.

c) Apply a 0.5 uV signal at 14.3 mHz to the Main/Alt antenna input.  Place radio in the 2.3 kHz, SSB/CW mode.  Tune PTO for maximum audio output.  Peak L701 (cover removed).  Turn IF gain pot (R1138) clockwise until audio output no longer increases with additional increase in pot setting.  Then turn pot counterclockwise until audio output decreases 3 dB.  (Note:  my guess is that the preceding sentence was to have read, "Then turn AGC bias pot counterclockwise until audio output decreases 3 dB."  However, the same thing is accomplished with steps i) and ii) added above).

d) Increase signal generator input to 1 uV and adjust S-meter zero pot (R1119) for a reading of S1-1/2 on S-meter (alternatively, adjust R1119 so that the S-meter just begins to move off of the S1 minimum reading mark with no output from the signal generator.  Then increase signal generator output until the S-meter just begins to move again.  Adjust R1119 so that the S-meter reads just slightly above S1).

e) Increase signal generator input to 50,000 uV and adjust 60 dB over S9 meter set pot (R1106) for 60 dB over S9 on meter (alternatively, adjust R1106 for an S9 reading with a 50 uV signal.  However, this may not result in a 60 dB over S9 reading with a 50,000 uV signal applied).

f) Repeat steps d & e until no further change is noted.

g) Install rear card cage cover.  Repeak L701 with signal generator level of approximately 1 uV.

h) If audio appears distorted after making the above adjustments, adjust IF gain pot (R1138) (accessible with the rear card cage cover in place) clockwise until distortion disappears. (Note:  the final adjustment of R1138 may have to be done after using the receiver for a few days). 

Re: [drakelist] Audio

[LeeCraner]

For those a bit confused on Mike's response, it helps to understand that Mike worked for Drake on the design of the TR7.  

As of my input on this tread, I've owned a TR7 for well over 20 years now and never gave the "residual audio" a second thought.

73
Lee WB6SSW

In a message dated 11/02/2005 1:29:09 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

"Mike,W8KRR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
With the recent conversation about "residual audio", I feel that I 
should say that the control used for the af/rf/pwr sw
was a stock part, and did not go fully to zero when turned down - the 
reported small audio output at minimum
gain setting is normal - shoot me if dissatisfied!
Mike

[drakelist] Help: Birdies and Such on a TR-5

[LeeCraner]

I've resurrected my TR-5 which has been stored for a while.  I've notice that there are substantial birdies across the bands that I don't recall when I had this rig up and running several years ago.  Also, the digital display clock can be heard quite noticably (S4) around 7.55 mHz.  I've checked the shielding and grounds and they seem in place.

Other than that, the rig hears and xmits just fine.  Any insights?  

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] WTB: Tuner parts needed

[LeeCraner]

I am looking for the meter bezel and the ceramic switch wafer for the antenna selector switch for my MN2700.  I suspect that the bezel and switch wafers from other Drake tuners would work as well.  Please let me know if you can help.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] FS: SL300 and TR7 Service Manual

[LeeCraner]

I have a used Network Sciences 300 Hz CW filter for the 7 line that I received loose with a TR7.  Since I don't need it, its for sale.  Price is $55.00 delivered US.  Though I haven't personally tested it, I'll guarantee it works.

I also have an original TR7 service manual in the original blue binder.  Some pages are loose, but they're all there.  $35.00 delivered US.

73
Lee WB6SSW

Re: [drakelist] Receiver protector schematic needed.

[LeeCraner]

Craig:

As promised, I took a look into the interior of my RP-500.with the thought of drawing up the schematic for you.

Unfortunately, my RP-500 is potted in resin with a wire from each of the SO259's disappearing in the resin..  The only component I can make out is a small enamal coated coil.

I guess you'll have to rely on those with the RP 700 (that apparently is not potted) to give you the schematic.

73 es GL
Lee WB6SSW
 

[drakelist] WTB: Junker TR7 for parts

[LeeCraner]

I need the complete hi pass assembly from a TR7.  If you have a TR7 parts rig you're willing to sell or just the hi pass filter assembly, please drop me a line.  Tnx.
73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Question on 7077 desk mic

[LeeCraner]

I recently acquired a 7077 that has been substantially "modified" by the original owner.  I'm trying to put it back to its original configuration.  Any of you out there with a 7077 could help me.

In the base of my 7077 is an impedance matching transformer that has been disconnected.  It has three leads, black, yellow and white.  If we assume the black is the common that goes to ground, which lead goes to the mic element's red lead, the yellow or the white?   Thanks in advance for your help.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Help on R7 missing alignment step

[LeeCraner]

I finally got around to aligning my R7A.  However, it appears that there is a step missing from the alignment instructions in the R7 service manual.  

Specifically, the instructions for aligning the IF gain and S meter start off in step 3-10 a):  "Adjust AGC bias pot (R1127) fully clockwise."

Yet no where in subsequent instructions does it describe resetting the R1127 pot to its correct position.  In other words, if you follow the alignment instructions verbatim, you will leave R1127 in its full clockwise position.

Anyone out there know what the missing step is to correctly set R1127?  Thanks in advance.

Lee WB6SSW  

[drakelist] Re: Wx

[LeeCraner]

"Mike,W8KRR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
To all on the Drake list:

If you are coming to Dayton for the hamfest, plan on at least one day of 
rain - bring your coats!
Mike


Ain't that the truth.  And, if this year is like past years, it WILL rain on Friday.

Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] 1525 EM Converted to a Speaker/Mic?

[LeeCraner]

Years ago someone gave me a 1525 EM touchtone mic.  This weekend, when I finally got around to putting a connector on it for my UV-3 I noticed it has been converted to a speaker/mic.  The mic element was converted to an electrat and speaker placed where the old mic element used to reside.  In addition, a small LED was placed over the touchtone pad to illuminate it.  Accompanying the mic was a hand written summary of the conversion, showing the proper cable termination connections.

Have any of you on the list seen such a conversion before?  I wonder if this was published in QST, etc. in the past.

73 es tnx for any insight
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Wanted: Drake labeled mobile speaker

[LeeCraner]

I am looking for any version of the mobile speakers produced with the Drake label over the years.  If you have one available in any condition, please let me know.  Thanks.

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] Wanted: SP75 and 7077 Mic

[LeeCraner]

Looking for either or both.  Let me know your price.  Shipping to 91301.  

Tnx es 73
Lee WB6SSW

Re: [drakelist] Drake L-77 Amp Pic Needed

[LeeCraner]

For what it's worth, the L7 "racks" nicely as is.  The height is standard rack panel height, so all that's needed is a couple of "ears" to mount it.  I've got my whole 7 line rack mounted (you can see it in the "Family Affair" book).

73
Lee WB6SSW

[drakelist] MN2700 coax mod

[LeeCraner]

A couple of you have asked about my mod to the MN2700 to adapt positions 3 and 4 of the MN2700 antenna switch for coax feedlines.  This mod is for those of us that don't have the B1000 balun and don't run balanced feedlines or long wire antennas.

Open up the MN2700 and unsolder the three leads at the Fiberglas terminal board that connects to the B1000.  Remove the Fiberglas board and save it so you can restore your MN2700 someday in the future.  

Fabricate a replacement board of the same size out of scrap aluminum.  Mount two SO 259 connectors to the board.  Mount the board into the MN2700 in place of the Fiberglas board (the SO 259 connectors should just clear the rear panel cutout--thank you Drake).  Solder the two leads from the antenna switch to the SO259 (leave the grounded lead floating).  That's it.

Here's a picture of the additional SO259 connectors:

www.members.aol.com/leecraner/mn2700.jpg


73 Lee WB6SSW

Re: [drakelist] B-1000 Balun

[LeeCraner]

Yes, the balun mounts on the back of the Drake tuners for use with balanced lines.  When they come available, they're very expensive, in comparison to their original cost, what you paid for your Drake tuner and the cost to homebrew a replacement.  

If you're not running balanced feeders, you don't need the B-1000, of course.  I used the space on the back of my MN2700 where the balun would mount to provide extra, switched, SO259 connectors.  The mod is completely reversable and adds to the functionality of the 2700 for me, since I run coax exclusively for my antennas.

73
Lee WB6SSW