Re: [Elecraft] K2 This Afternoon and Other Reflections

2006-02-22 Thread Ken Bessler

From: Joseph Reed <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Ed Palmer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 This Afternoon and Other Reflections
Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2006 18:21:23 -0800 (PST)

Ed,

  Glad you had nice wx and had an opportunity to put your K2 to the task.

  I wonder what radials you were using on the MP-1.  I have found in the 
past that without 32 1/4 wave (20m) radials the antenna was squat.  I've 
tried using the MFJ whip, but it is just too much for the tripod mount.


  A bigger question to the group, the MP-1 is a nice product and well 
constructed, but what have other folks done to improve Rr (radiation 
resistance)?


  Regards,
  Joe N9JR


Maybe it's the soil conductivity where you are? I used to have a map of 
north America
which showed the soil conductivity all over and my QTH (EM17) was as high as 
the scale
could go. I've always had good luck with verticals here. My MP-1 (I call it 
a MP-1X) is the
standard coil, mount and radials plus 4 additional 50' radials, a Hustler 
54" mast and a
MFJ 12' whip. I've been too busy helping my dad recover from a hip 
replacement so I
haven't had a chance to try the mods to the MP-1 out yet but the base model 
worked

pretty well, even with only the OEM radials and 12 watts.

...just wait 'till I set up my new version with my new 250w amp...maybe 
tomorrow?


  73's de Ken KG0WX - Kadiddlehopper #11808,
   Flying Pigs #-1055, Grid EM17iq,
 Elecraft K2 #4913, XG2, 4SQRP Tenna Dipper,
 Heath GD-1B, MP-1(X)antenna & HLA-150 amp.

_
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! 
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[Elecraft] Drift-K1

2006-02-22 Thread john gabbard

I have had my K1 #1734 in use occaisionally since I built it.
  The other day I noticed quite abit of drift,even after warm up,like 1-2 
khz. over an hour or so.I think I remember it was going lower in freq.

  I just wondered if anyother owners have had a similar problem?
 Could be from day one and I just now noticed it! Can't really say, Thanks 
John  KF7OM 



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RE: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Calibration

2006-02-22 Thread EricJ
Yes, Don converted me a long time ago. I've tried most of the wattmeters for
QRP work and nothing has given me more confidence in what I am measuring
than the DL-1 and an accurate DMM. Less is more.

I put my DL-1 in an Altoids tin and printed a nice convenient chart to go in
the lid. You can see it here and download the Excel spreadsheet used to
generate the chart:

http://www.ke6us.com/accessories.htm

BTW, my K2 gets a lot of use in off-beat projects. It served me well as a
VFO for my Drake boatanchor station. It will soon be keyed with a 1923
Vibroplex Original and receive to a 1920's Western Union Sounder for use on
a couple of American Morse nets. It's good to see all the old stuff playing
so well with a state-of-the-art rig like the K2.

http://www.ke6us.com/telegraph.htm

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig D. Smith
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 5:52 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Calibration

I second what Don said about using the Elecraft DL-1 for power measurement.
Recently finished my K2 and found the DL-1 to be invaluable - Everyone
should have one.  I must have used it 10 times already, including today when
I installed the 160 m option.

I put the power vs. voltage formula that comes with the DL-1 into an Excel
spreadsheet and just enter the DC voltage and get an accurate power reading
in seconds.  Have a matrix of power out on each band so I can see if it
changes over time. 

73
  ... Craig   AC0DS




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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration

2006-02-22 Thread Larry Phipps


I have to slip a plug in here for my new wattmeter kits... specifically 
the LP-200 dummy load/wattmeter. You can read about it at 
www.telepostinc.com. It's like a DL1 on steroids. It includes a 30W 
dummy load, with a variable speed fan option for 100W continuous rating. 
It doesn't get nearly as hot as a DL1, even without the fan, but more to 
the point, it's microprocessor controlled, has digital readout, 
frequency and temperature compensation, and will accurately display 
power from 1mW to 120W. It makes a great addition to any bench. I 
started shipping these about a week ago.


I also have a handheld digital wattmeter (LP-300) for field use that 
will work at QRPp thru 100W that's real slick and will be out in a few 
weeks, and a high-end digital meter (LP-100) that will go on sale this 
week, that is based on my cover article in the Jan/Feb QEX. One unique 
feature of the LP-100 is the ability to display complex impedance, in 
addition to lots of other professional features.


The LP-100 and LP-300 feature a nifty peak responding bargraph display 
that will follow voice peaks, and display power and SWR simultaneously 
in both analog and numeric form. The LP-300 can not only be used for 
antenna tuning, but as a realtime monitor for field operating. It has a 
battery life of 25-100 hours depending on type of battery and backlight 
usage. It also has a 12v jack for external power. The LP-100 uses a 
superfast PLED display, and has lots of unique features.


They're all kits, and cover a range of needs. There are links to all 
three on the above webpage, as well as a link to a comparison matrix of 
the three. I will be at Dayton  with a booth showing these and more.


Larry N8LP
ww.telepostinc.com



Don Brown wrote:


Hi

I will throw my two cents worth. I agree with everything Don is saying here 
however there are several other ways to get a reasonably accurate power out 
measurement on a K2 or K2/100. The simplest and maybe least expensive is the 
Elecraft DL1 dummy load kit. This dummy load will handle 20 watts and 
includes a built in RF probe to measure the power out. You just connect a 
voltmeter to the probe out test points and use the included graph to convert 
the DC voltage to watts. Everyone building a K2 should have one of these 
simple dummy loads/RF indicator kits for calibration and tune up.


Another method is to use the new Elecraft CP1 directional coupler/power pick 
off. With it you can use a QRP watt meter like the OHR WM-2 to measure up to 
100 watts. You connect the K2/100 to the CP1 and then out of the CP1 to a 
dummy load that can handle 100 watts like the Tentec 300 watt load or the 
OHR 100 watt load. Then the forward pick off from the CP1 goes to the WM-2 
set on 1 watt if you built the CP1 for 20 db or the 100 mW range if you 
built the CP1 for 30 db. The WM-2 will read 0-100 watts. If you don't have a 
watt meter then you can do the same thing with a scope and a little math by 
connecting the scope across the forward terminator resistor on the CP1. You 
should be able to do the same with a RF probe and a DC voltmeter with the 20 
db version of the CP1. The 30 DB version may have too low of output for the 
30 DB version for use with a RF probe.


I also wrote an article several years ago on how to convert the OHR 100 watt 
dummy load into a 100 watt Pi attenuator with a 20 db down output. This can 
be used with a scope or QRP watt meter to measure 0-100 watts. I will repost 
the instructions if anyone is interested.


Thanks

The other Don

Don Brown
KD5NDB






- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:42 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration


 


John,

One must be careful not to zap the diode in the RF Probe - so measuring
directly across the dummy load is good only up to 20 watts or so.  A 
'scope

with a proper probe will handle the full 100 watts of the KPA100 easily.
Builders may not have a known good 'scope, and the RF Probe method must be
used with some intelligence - many folks do not know the accuracy of their
dummy load at the frequency of operation - and both the 'scope and RF 
Probe
methods are highly dependent on knowing the accuracy of the dummy load - 
it

must be entirely resistive for accurate results.

Yes, I feel that my 'scope and 1% 50 ohm dummy load (checked for both R 
and
X on several antenna analyzers) will provide better than 5% accuracy for 
any

wattmeter that I calibrate by that method.  Of course, I can do a more
accurate job at 30 watts or lower because I can read the voltage 
differences

on my 'scope face with greater precision (the 10 volts per division scale)
and at higher power, I end up at the 20 or 50 volts per division scale and
the interpolation becomes more coarse.

73,
Don W3FPR

Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

   


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 This Afternoon and Other Reflections

2006-02-22 Thread Joseph Reed
Ed,
   
  Glad you had nice wx and had an opportunity to put your K2 to the task.

  I wonder what radials you were using on the MP-1.  I have found in the past 
that without 32 1/4 wave (20m) radials the antenna was squat.  I've tried using 
the MFJ whip, but it is just too much for the tripod mount.
   
  A bigger question to the group, the MP-1 is a nice product and well 
constructed, but what have other folks done to improve Rr (radiation 
resistance)?
   
  Regards,
  Joe N9JR
  
Ed Palmer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi everyone. With the weather being bright and sunny and 48 degrees I 
decided to take the K2 out to the back yard and see how 5 watts and battery 
power would work in the bottom of the solar cycle.

I mounted my MP-1 on my water meter post with the base off the ground by about 
3 1/2 feet. the radials were splayed at roughly 90 degree intervals around the 
antenna. I fired up the K2 at 5 watts and checked into both the Maritime Mobile 
Net and the YL System. Got anywhere from 5x5 to 5X9 reports from the east 
coast, Canada and the southeast from here in south central Iowa. All stations 
had positive comments on the audio. 
  
The K2 never ceases to amaze me and to think during the building process I was 
ready to take a sledge hammer to it. Taking a hiatus from building and 
encouragement from you folks here on the reflector helped me realize a 
successful build not to mention just simply a great kit from Elecraft. I musn't 
forget Gary Surrency for finally getting me to see the forest in spite of the 
trees. I plan to build another K2 one of these days but not sure if I'll sell 
this one or keep it as a testemant to both my inclination to ineptness and 
stubborness and still be successful. 

Thanks again folks and thanks to the Elecraft support.

73, Ed N0EHQ K2 #4595
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RE: [Elecraft] recieve comparisions k2 vs ft 980

2006-02-22 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Tom, KM4CU asked:

hello all. Just wondering if anyone would comment on this. recently
purchased a yaesu ft 987d, when compairing recieve sensitivity on the higher
bands it seems the K2 suffers. If you turn on the k2's pre it seems to equal
out what I'm hearing. There is a circuit in the ft 897 that turns off the
front end preamp, this curcuit is turned on, cutting out the pre in the ft
897. Should the preamp in the k2 be turned on for normal recieve?  

---

Great question, Tom! 

The real measure of sensitivity is the S+N/N ratio. What you are comparing
is the gain available. That's something quite different. 

The amount of gain is simply the total amplification available from the
antenna to the speaker or phones. If those amplifiers are noisy, their own
noise will cover up signals. 

What's usually considered really important is how weak of a signal can the
receiver hear, down in the noise. To do that, it's important that the
receiver not mask weak signals with its own internally-generated noise. Down
on the lower-frequency bands, minimal band QRN, even in the quietest QTH's,
is usually much stronger than what even a cheap receiver generates
internally. But, up above about 7 to 10 MHz, the band QRN drops off
dramatically, putting more demand on having a quiet receiver if we don't
want its internal noise masking the weak signals. That's a never-ending
quest and the frequencies go up right into the VHF, UHF and Microwave bands,
but it start at about 7 to 10 MHz. 

The most difficult noise inside a receiver is going to be that developed in
the "front end", since whatever comes out of the first stage(s) of a
receiver will simply be amplified by all the subsequent stages. The K2, like
most high-performance receivers, has a low-noise "preamplifier" that will
increase the level of signals at the antenna input. In addition to the
obvious effect of increasing the overall receiver gain, it is electrically
quiet so it can improve the level of signals without masking them with
noise. That helps the receiver hear quiet signals up on the higher frequency
bands where the band noise doesn't cover them up. 

There's another issue with the ability of a receiver to hear weak signals:
the receiver bandwidth. The bandwidth is usually defined by the I.F.
filters. The wider the passband, the more band (and internal noise generated
in the receiver 'front end') passes through to compete with the signal.
That's why we routinely cut down the I.F. bandwidth (choose a narrower
filter) to help us hear a weak signal. Even when there's no QRM present a
narrower filter helps the signal "jump up" out of the noise. Since bandwidth
affects the ability to hear weak signals, most Ham receivers are compared
using an I.F. bandwidth of 500 Hz. That way we can make meaningful
comparisons.

So, the ability of a receiver to hear a weak signal is measured by injecting
a weak signal and measuring the amount of audio output the receiver
produces. Typically a 1 uV signal is injected into the antenna terminal.
That gives you the Signal + Noise level, since we are hearing both the
signal and any noise coming through with it. Then we turn off the signal and
just listen to the noise. The ratio between the two, expressed in dB, is the
S+N/N ratio. Another measurement that is often used is the "Minimum
Discernable Signal" or MDS, expressed as a number of dB below a milliwatt,
such as -130 dBm. 

My K2 shows a S+N/N ratio of about 27.2 dB on  80 and 40 meters with no
preamp, and about 24.5 dB on 20 meters with no preamp. That translates to a
MDS of about -134 dBm on 80 and 40 and -132 dBm on 20. On 20 the preamp adds
useful Signal/Noise ratio be improving the signal level before it hits the
mixer and I.F. circuits. With the preamp on, my K2 show a S+N/N ratio of
29.8 dB for an MDS of about -137 dBm. 

To compare this with another receiver you need to conduct similar S+N/N
tests on the second receiver. A well-calibrated and shielded signal
generator to make meaningful measurements can be very expensive. Elecraft
makes a nifty little test oscillator (XG2) that provides a selectable 50 uV
and 1 uV output on 80, 40 and 20 meters for making just such measurements.
Although limited to three bands, it is quite reasonably priced considering
what one has to pay for a commercial unit. (The 50 uV output is a popular
level for calibration S-meters at S-9). 

Bottom line, it sounds like your K2 is functioning normally, but until you
find a signal down near the noise level, using the same antenna on both
receivers and the same I.F. bandwidth, etc., and see how they compare
actually hearing the signal, you don't know much about how they compare in
"sensitivity". The signal generator and calculations are just a way of
quantifying that so you can easily compare receivers under controlled
conditions and without having to look for weak signals . 

If you want to see the numbers and don't have a well calibrated signal
generator, I recommend

[Elecraft] FS: Loaded K2 with ATU #4331

2006-02-22 Thread Rich McCabe

OK I am bored and would like to build another K2.

I have built two fully optioned K2's and planned on this one being my 
"keeper".  But I under estimated the enjoyment that goes along with building 
one. So its time to buy another K2 and to fund that I need to sell this one. 
So the buyer gets one for the price of the kit. Solder included free :)


Elecraft K2
Serial # 4331
Options:
KPA100 - 100 watt option
KAT100-1 ATU unit
KSB2 - SSB option
K160RX - 160 meter option
KNB2 - Noise Blanker
KDSP2 - DSP Option


$1605 plus actual UPS cost.

Pictures available here www.ctiowa.com/k2

73,

Rich
kd0zv 


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[Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Calibration

2006-02-22 Thread Craig D. Smith
I second what Don said about using the Elecraft DL-1 for power measurement.
Recently finished my K2 and found the DL-1 to be invaluable - Everyone
should have one.  I must have used it 10 times already, including today when
I installed the 160 m option.

I put the power vs. voltage formula that comes with the DL-1 into an Excel
spreadsheet and just enter the DC voltage and get an accurate power reading
in seconds.  Have a matrix of power out on each band so I can see if it
changes over time. 

73
  ... Craig   AC0DS




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Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL

2006-02-22 Thread Ron Polityka

Hi Don,

Yes, I just seen that in the manual as your e-mail came into my system. Now 
I have to locate my probe.


72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

K1 - SN 01011
K2 - SN 01392


- Original Message - 
From: "Don Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ".Elecraft" ; "Ron Polityka" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL



Hi

Do you have the frequency counter probe connected to the BFO test point. 
If you do, does the frequency counter work when you connect it to the 
4.000Mhz oscillator on the control board. If not then you have a problem 
with the frequency counter on the control board. Possibly low gain on Q9 
and Q10. If you just forgot to plug in the counter probe then that is your 
problem.


Don Brown

KD5NDB



- Original Message - 
From: "Ron Polityka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: ".Elecraft" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] CAL FIL



Hello,

 Hope someone can help me with a problem I am having trying to set my CAL
FIL settings.

I am using the N0SS program and I have looked in my K2 manual and the one 
on

line. I have Processor 2.01H version and I/O Controller 1.02 version.

I basic K2 for QRP operation without 60 meters.

I can't seem to enter the new value of the CAL FIL that I want to keep. I
get a INFO 230 which is BFO is not connected to freq. counter.

I know I am missing something but I just can't place my finger on it.

When I go and set my FL1 and hit the XFIL button all 00 come up and 
then

InFO 230 shows up.

Any help would be grateful, thanks in advance.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

K1 - SN 01011
K2 - SN 01392


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Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL

2006-02-22 Thread Don Brown
Hi

Do you have the frequency counter probe connected to the BFO test point. If 
you do, does the frequency counter work when you connect it to the 4.000Mhz 
oscillator on the control board. If not then you have a problem with the 
frequency counter on the control board. Possibly low gain on Q9 and Q10. If 
you just forgot to plug in the counter probe then that is your problem.

Don Brown

KD5NDB



- Original Message - 
From: "Ron Polityka" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ".Elecraft" 
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 7:12 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] CAL FIL


> Hello,
>
>  Hope someone can help me with a problem I am having trying to set my CAL
> FIL settings.
>
> I am using the N0SS program and I have looked in my K2 manual and the one 
> on
> line. I have Processor 2.01H version and I/O Controller 1.02 version.
>
> I basic K2 for QRP operation without 60 meters.
>
> I can't seem to enter the new value of the CAL FIL that I want to keep. I
> get a INFO 230 which is BFO is not connected to freq. counter.
>
> I know I am missing something but I just can't place my finger on it.
>
> When I go and set my FL1 and hit the XFIL button all 00 come up and 
> then
> InFO 230 shows up.
>
> Any help would be grateful, thanks in advance.
>
> 72 and Thanks,
> Ron Polityka
> WB3AAL
> www.wb3aal.com
> www.n3epa.org/
>
> K1 - SN 01011
> K2 - SN 01392
>
>
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration

2006-02-22 Thread Don Brown
Hi

I will throw my two cents worth. I agree with everything Don is saying here 
however there are several other ways to get a reasonably accurate power out 
measurement on a K2 or K2/100. The simplest and maybe least expensive is the 
Elecraft DL1 dummy load kit. This dummy load will handle 20 watts and 
includes a built in RF probe to measure the power out. You just connect a 
voltmeter to the probe out test points and use the included graph to convert 
the DC voltage to watts. Everyone building a K2 should have one of these 
simple dummy loads/RF indicator kits for calibration and tune up.

Another method is to use the new Elecraft CP1 directional coupler/power pick 
off. With it you can use a QRP watt meter like the OHR WM-2 to measure up to 
100 watts. You connect the K2/100 to the CP1 and then out of the CP1 to a 
dummy load that can handle 100 watts like the Tentec 300 watt load or the 
OHR 100 watt load. Then the forward pick off from the CP1 goes to the WM-2 
set on 1 watt if you built the CP1 for 20 db or the 100 mW range if you 
built the CP1 for 30 db. The WM-2 will read 0-100 watts. If you don't have a 
watt meter then you can do the same thing with a scope and a little math by 
connecting the scope across the forward terminator resistor on the CP1. You 
should be able to do the same with a RF probe and a DC voltmeter with the 20 
db version of the CP1. The 30 DB version may have too low of output for the 
30 DB version for use with a RF probe.

I also wrote an article several years ago on how to convert the OHR 100 watt 
dummy load into a 100 watt Pi attenuator with a 20 db down output. This can 
be used with a scope or QRP watt meter to measure 0-100 watts. I will repost 
the instructions if anyone is interested.

Thanks

The other Don

Don Brown
KD5NDB






- Original Message - 
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:42 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration


> John,
>
> One must be careful not to zap the diode in the RF Probe - so measuring
> directly across the dummy load is good only up to 20 watts or so.  A 
> 'scope
> with a proper probe will handle the full 100 watts of the KPA100 easily.
> Builders may not have a known good 'scope, and the RF Probe method must be
> used with some intelligence - many folks do not know the accuracy of their
> dummy load at the frequency of operation - and both the 'scope and RF 
> Probe
> methods are highly dependent on knowing the accuracy of the dummy load - 
> it
> must be entirely resistive for accurate results.
>
> Yes, I feel that my 'scope and 1% 50 ohm dummy load (checked for both R 
> and
> X on several antenna analyzers) will provide better than 5% accuracy for 
> any
> wattmeter that I calibrate by that method.  Of course, I can do a more
> accurate job at 30 watts or lower because I can read the voltage 
> differences
> on my 'scope face with greater precision (the 10 volts per division scale)
> and at higher power, I end up at the 20 or 50 volts per division scale and
> the interpolation becomes more coarse.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL

2006-02-22 Thread Ron Polityka

Sorry I forgot to say,

I also loose the setting for the CAL FIL that I just tuned in.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

K1 - SN 01011
K2 - SN 01392


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[Elecraft] CAL FIL

2006-02-22 Thread Ron Polityka

Hello,

Hope someone can help me with a problem I am having trying to set my CAL 
FIL settings.


I am using the N0SS program and I have looked in my K2 manual and the one on 
line. I have Processor 2.01H version and I/O Controller 1.02 version.


I basic K2 for QRP operation without 60 meters.

I can't seem to enter the new value of the CAL FIL that I want to keep. I 
get a INFO 230 which is BFO is not connected to freq. counter.


I know I am missing something but I just can't place my finger on it.

When I go and set my FL1 and hit the XFIL button all 00 come up and then 
InFO 230 shows up.


Any help would be grateful, thanks in advance.

72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org/

K1 - SN 01011
K2 - SN 01392


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[Elecraft] K2 This Afternoon and Other Reflections

2006-02-22 Thread Ed Palmer
Hi everyone. With the weather being bright and sunny and 48 degrees I decided 
to take the K2 out to the back yard and see how 5 watts and battery power would 
work in the bottom of the solar cycle.

I mounted my MP-1 on my water meter post with the base off the ground by about 
3 1/2 feet. the radials were splayed at roughly 90 degree intervals around the 
antenna. I fired up the K2 at 5 watts and checked into both the Maritime Mobile 
Net and the YL System. Got anywhere from 5x5 to 5X9 reports from the east 
coast, Canada and the southeast from here in south central Iowa. All stations 
had positive comments on the audio. 

The K2 never ceases to amaze me and to think during the building process I was 
ready to take a sledge hammer to it. Taking a hiatus from building and 
encouragement from you folks here on the reflector helped me realize a 
successful build not to mention just simply a great kit from Elecraft. I musn't 
forget Gary Surrency for finally getting me to see the forest in spite of the 
trees. I plan to build another K2 one of these days but not sure if I'll sell 
this one or keep it as a testemant to both my inclination to ineptness and 
stubborness and still be successful. 

Thanks again folks and thanks to the Elecraft support.

73, Ed N0EHQ K2 #4595
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RE: [Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration

2006-02-22 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

One must be careful not to zap the diode in the RF Probe - so measuring
directly across the dummy load is good only up to 20 watts or so.  A 'scope
with a proper probe will handle the full 100 watts of the KPA100 easily.
Builders may not have a known good 'scope, and the RF Probe method must be
used with some intelligence - many folks do not know the accuracy of their
dummy load at the frequency of operation - and both the 'scope and RF Probe
methods are highly dependent on knowing the accuracy of the dummy load - it
must be entirely resistive for accurate results.

Yes, I feel that my 'scope and 1% 50 ohm dummy load (checked for both R and
X on several antenna analyzers) will provide better than 5% accuracy for any
wattmeter that I calibrate by that method.  Of course, I can do a more
accurate job at 30 watts or lower because I can read the voltage differences
on my 'scope face with greater precision (the 10 volts per division scale)
and at higher power, I end up at the 20 or 50 volts per division scale and
the interpolation becomes more coarse.

73,
Don W3FPR


>
> I think this speaks somewhat to assumptions about what the k2 builder
> will already have or purchase for the project.  I already had a good
> DMM  which agrees in the areas we checked with a really good Fluke - no
> fluke apparently.  The manual for the KPA100 suggest you may have
> problems if you callibrate with a bad wattmeter.  Soo, if you can
> use the rf probe which you build with the k2 kit and a DMM, why not
> suggest this as an alternative method to anyone who suspects his
> wattmeter is not good or (gasp) doesn't have one?  Or am I all confused.
>
> Incidently 5087 works so well, I can't believe the range I get both in
> and out on ssb 20, 40 & 80- meters with just the 23 foot whip.  73,
> John KI4NGH
>
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> No virus found in this incoming message.
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Re: [Elecraft] recieve comparisions k2 vs ft 980

2006-02-22 Thread Vic K2VCO

tom martin wrote:

Should the preamp in the k2 be
turned on for normal recieve?


I find that I usually have the preamp on for 14 Mhz and higher, while I 
turn it off on the lower bands (unless I'm using my low gain ferrite 
loop on 160).  It will depend on the gain of your antennas and the 
amount of local noise you have.  The preamp setting is saved per-band, 
so you don't have to change it a lot.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] recieve comparisions k2 vs ft 980

2006-02-22 Thread tom martin
hello all. Just wondering if anyone would comment on this. recently purchased a 
yaesu ft 987d, when compairing recieve sensitivity on the higher bands it seems 
the K2 suffers. If you turn on the k2's pre it seems to equal out what I'm 
hearing. There is a circuit in the ft 897 that turns off the front end preamp, 
this curcuit is turned on, cutting out the pre in the ft 897. Should the preamp 
in the k2 be turned on for normal recieve?  

  Tom  km4cu
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[Elecraft] K1-9 vs. K2

2006-02-22 Thread jmeade
I was thinking about Tom's (K2TA) suggestion about using a K1-9 over a K2.
For battery operation, I might agree.  The K1 and the KX1 are more
battery-friendly and really work well.  

For portable operation where an AC outlet is available, I think some of the
features of the K2 are so incredibly nice that I would not want to give them
up if I didn't have to. I have been having a lot of fun operating from a
kitchen table from a weekend house with a small switching supply.

Features that I really like that are slightly unusual on a small, portable
QRP rig:

RF Gain control.
Keyer speed knob (with display of speed as knob is turned - I use this
constantly to adjust to the other person's speed).
Front panel power output adjustment (I use this often).
The wider matching range of the KAT2 (helps with a 40m dipole fed with 300
ohm twinlead on some bands).
Built-in speaker (although I mainly use headphones).
Variable sidetone level and frequency with synchronous TX offset (I like to
change these and they are PF1 and PF2).
IF and AF filters (although I don't have the KAF2 yet).
6-digit frequency display (the KX1 is OK but the labels around certain push
button switches like the one to display all of the frequency digits are
starting to smear due to fingers touching them).
10W maximum output (No problem with an AC outlet nearby).
All 9 bands and the tuner remembers the settings on each band (Incredibly
convenient for a CF Zepp kind of antenna).
Hi-performance receiver (diode mixer and post-mixer amplifier etc.).
Backlit LCD (that can be turned off).
Reasonable receive current drain when battery operation is desired (150mA in
the battery-saver mode)

Not many radios have ALL of these features in one small box.

I also have a KX1 so I have a frame of reference for making a comparison.

My K2 wish list:

Balanced auto tuner (at least one for 150W). I prefer balanced antennas and
balanced tuners and use a Johnson Matchbox at home except for 160m where I
use a Drake MN75 and a BL2.  In the field I use a BL1 after the KAT2.

72,  John W2XS
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[Elecraft] All K2 DXpedition to TY (Benin) next month

2006-02-22 Thread John Harper

Just noticed this on one of the DX sites:
http://www.ik1pmr.com/dx-peditions/ty/index.php?topic=Setup

John Harper AE5X
Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com




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Re: [Elecraft] XV144 calibration

2006-02-22 Thread mj

HI 

That is also excatly what the userguide are saying. But if it is true what 
mentioned in this thread, that the power fall off fast approaching 
29MHZ then it is hard to do with the K2, as mentioned i can hardly get 1/3 of 
the 1 mW out at the 145.5 on the Xv or 29.5 on the low power 
from the K2. and about 1-2 W on a 10 W setting on high power out. 
So if this is normal behaivur of the K2, then it do not make much sense to me 
to align at 29.5 MHz. Ofcause the option is that the band filter on 
my K2 is having wrong centre and that the power fall off quicker then on other 
K2. 

So there for my idea of tunning the XV with in the good area of the K2, that 
still cover all the  CW and SSB part in OZ.


A issue that would be good to get clear on as i have a XV50 comming to me soon. 


OZ1BZJ..

Michael.





On Wed Feb 22 13:38 , "John D"Ausilio" sent:


My understanding is that you peak the gain at 145.5 in order to
achieve a reasonable compromise between gain and noise figure at the
low end of 144 ..

de w1rt/john

On 2/22/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys
>
> Thanks Don, Matt and others answering on my issue.
>
> I have now seen the light. I was deeply in to a engineering mode, where i 
> tried to do everything according to spec. The spec on the XV144 
say
> IF input from 28MHz to 30MHz and a output from 144-146 MHz. Then the thing 
> need to operate in that area and the natural place for 
alignment
> would be 145MHz in the midt of the window. And being in engineering mode my 
> thinking was that the K2 was designed to match the XV144
>
> Now you guys brought me back to real world. Why would I run the transverter 
> with K2 That do not do FM above 144.8, that in Denmark are
> the border line to the the FM area (144.8 and up.)
>
> So trying to cover most used areas for CW and SSB i should properly align at 
> 144.3. Where the output from K2 should be at full level and no
> issues should be seen.
>
> Sometime i guess my education is of no use where looking at all the spec and 
> stuff are the thing to do, when just a little common sense it
> needed. :-)
>
> Br.
>
> OZ1BZJ Michael
>
> A engineer proberly expirence what one rock band has called a Momentary Lapse 
> of Reason
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue Feb 21 23:15 , "Don Wilhelm" sent:
>
>
> Michael,
>
> That is normal - the K2 spec for 10 meter coverage is 28.0 to 28.8 MHz at 10
> watts output and it falls off more rapidly at the high frequency end than
> the low end.
> You may be able to increase the usable coverage at the expense of the
> maximum available output by peaking the 10 meter bandpass filter at some
> frequency higher than the 28.2 point that is indicated in the manual. I
> would suggest peaking at 28.8 or even higher if you need to achieve good
> power output over the entire 28.0 to 30.0 MHz. If you do that, check the
> maximum power output at both ends of your chosen band and try to balance the
> maximum available power at both ends - adjust the peaking frequency up or
> down to achieve good coverage over your desired range.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
> >
> > The SSB Firmware was ok, version 1.8 so no problem there.
> >
> > Now i have found the issue on the K2, but not the solution. The desribed
> > issue seen on the low power out are comming from the 28-30 Mhz.
> > if i check
> > indicated power by the internal powermeter it drops over the
> > freq. with the
> > power set for 5W i do reach 5.4 W on 28 Mhz at 29 Mhz it is 4,9, still ok
> > but at 30 Mhz it is down at 0,3 W
> > So trying 10 W 29 Mhz only goes to same 4.9, so a rolloff on increasing
> > freq. are seen. Proberly normal, but passband seems to be to narrow ???
> >
> >
> > Any idea is this normal ??
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Br.
> >
> > OZ1BZJ
> > Michael
> >
>
>
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[Elecraft] K2 #5341

2006-02-22 Thread chris
K2 #5341 is up and running Have just worked 4o3ant for a new DXCC in 
antarctica. it is working great .now what should I add to it the auto atu the 
dsp unit ?
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[Elecraft] the K9YA Telegraph e-Zine

2006-02-22 Thread Able2fly
For those who haven't discovered the K9YA  Telegraph e-Zine yet, you are 
missing what a lot of us consider a  treasure.

http://www.k9ya.org

73, Bill, K3UJ  

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[Elecraft] RE: K2 assembly order

2006-02-22 Thread arm
Thanks everyone who emailed and replied. I will go ahead and install the 
options.

73 - Rick

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RE:[Elecraft] power output of K2

2006-02-22 Thread Cortland Richmond
Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR wrote
>
>   That 70.4 Volts peak to peak is 12.4 Watts; my Heathkit meter is
reading low.

But probably within its tolerance.  10 watts would be  ~63.2 volts peak to
peak, so you're reading less than 1 dB high.  

How accurate is the scope?  And how much do you need that dB?  (grin!)

Have fun!

Cortland
KA5S

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[Elecraft] Reminder: RadioFest 2006 this Saturday!

2006-02-22 Thread w6fvi
Just a reminder that this Saturday in Seaside, California, is RadioFest 
2006!


Yes, Elecraft will be there, and Eric will be giving a talk/demo at 10 AM.

Find out more at www.radiofest.org

73,
Brian - W6FVI

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[Elecraft] Re: K2 assembly order

2006-02-22 Thread Charlie, W0YG

On 2/22/2006, Rick wrote:

Hello all, can someone tell me if the K160RX and KNB2 modules will 
interfere
with KPA100 alignment. I am waiting for a toroid core for the KPA100 and 
have

built the above mentioned modules meanwhile and would like to install them
while waiting on part for KPA100.


The answer is no, none of the above modules will interfere with the KPA100 
calibration/alignment. Go ahead and install them now.


Good luck.

73,

Charlie, W0YG..>> 


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[Elecraft] K2 assembly order

2006-02-22 Thread arm
Hello all, can someone tell me if the K160RX and KNB2 modules will interfere 
with KPA100 alignment. I am waiting for a toroid core for the KPA100 and have 
built the above mentioned modules meanwhile and would like to install them 
while waiting on part for KPA100. 

Thanks for any info

73  -- Rick
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[Elecraft] For Bug Users

2006-02-22 Thread Bob Baxter
I obtained a bug speed control device from Frank W7IS, the bug guru,
that he calls an "Extendadot."  It is a sliding tube that doesn't use
any other weights.  You can adjust the speed super fast.  You can see
a picture and read about it at  
http://journals.aol.com/w7is/TELEGRAPHKEY/ Scroll down almost to
the bottom of the page.  He makes different sizes to fit various bugs
and speeds.  I had a 15 wpm qso with it and it never skipped a beat,
this one is a keeper.  You will find his email address in the article.
 It only fits round dot arms i.e. Original and Presentaion, he is
thinking about something for Lightnings etc.
--
Bob Baxter AA7EQ
Walnut Ridge, Ar.
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Re: Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Fun in ARRL DX test...

2006-02-22 Thread n2htt
I currently contemplating building a K2 (have a K1 and KX1, K1 is my favorite) 
but what I think I really want is a K9!  B-)

Mike N2HTT
K1 s/n 566
KX1 s/n 99


- Original Message -
From: Curron HILL <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, February 22, 2006 6:03 am
Subject: Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Fun in ARRL DX test...

> " I would love to buy and build a 160-10M K1-9 that did not require 
> module changes.  "
> 
> Amen to that, so would I !!!
> 
> 73 de Don KB3DRW
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[Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna

2006-02-22 Thread Clark Macaulay
Hello everyone.
   
  Thanks for the all of the suggestions (as well as comiserating with me).  
Here I thought my lot with all the trees would be a great place to install 
several wire antennas (which it is) and  never gave it a thought that being in 
a hole would present special challenges.  Ron, thanks for your perspective: in 
every cloud there is a silver lining.  
   
  What I've concluded is that:
  1.  Since it's unlikely I'll be able to get an antenna up above the street 
level looking south/southeast (covenants and such), I'll stop trying to get 
South America and focus on East/West directions.
  2.  Putting up a wire antenna N/S for reaching Europe is a definate 
possibility, along the side of the house.  
  3.  I'll investigage putting up some type of vertical, hidden in the trees 
but at the street level, for 20m. Coax run will be rather long, though.  
Working at the roof level is not an option for this old man.
   
  73,
   
  Clark Macaulay, KE4RQ
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 Power Callibration

2006-02-22 Thread jferg977

From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Power Calibration
To: "Cathy James" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="iso-8859-1"

""Adding either the KAT2, KPA100 or KAT100 options will include a proper
wattmeter in the K2 system and the display will indicate the proper 
power
(if the wattmeter is calibrated properly), but the basic K2 uses only 
an RF
Probe type detector and reports the 'power' based on the assumption 
that the

load is 50 ohms non-reactive.  Try a dummy load and if you see a major
discrepancy, you can blame the interconnecting coax or the wattmeter - 
the
basic K2 power indication is quite correct when the laod is a 50 ohm 
proper

dummy load.

73,
Don W3FPR""

Don, I attribute a fair amount of the convulsions involved in getting 
my K2 callibrated to an inaccurate wattmeter.  It came on the manual 
tuner I bought.  I fed a 50 ohm dummy load through the tuner with it 
set to "bypass"   I got readings on the wattmeter much higher than 
those that I was actually putting out as we ascertained when we later 
used a good wattmeter.


I think this speaks somewhat to assumptions about what the k2 builder 
will already have or purchase for the project.  I already had a good 
DMM  which agrees in the areas we checked with a really good Fluke - no 
fluke apparently.  The manual for the KPA100 suggest you may have 
problems if you callibrate with a bad wattmeter.  Soo, if you can 
use the rf probe which you build with the k2 kit and a DMM, why not 
suggest this as an alternative method to anyone who suspects his 
wattmeter is not good or (gasp) doesn't have one?  Or am I all confused.


Incidently 5087 works so well, I can't believe the range I get both in 
and out on ssb 20, 40 & 80- meters with just the 23 foot whip.  73,  
John KI4NGH


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Re: [Elecraft] XV144 calibration

2006-02-22 Thread John D'Ausilio
My understanding is that you peak the gain at 145.5 in order to
achieve a reasonable compromise between gain and noise figure at the
low end of 144 ..

de w1rt/john

On 2/22/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys
>
> Thanks Don, Matt and others answering on my issue.
>
> I have now seen the light. I was deeply in to a engineering mode, where i 
> tried to do everything according to spec. The spec on the XV144 say
> IF input from 28MHz to 30MHz and a output from 144-146 MHz. Then the thing 
> need to operate in that area and the natural place for alignment
> would be 145MHz in the midt of the window. And being in engineering mode my 
> thinking was that the K2 was designed to match the XV144
>
> Now you guys brought me back to real world. Why would I run the transverter 
> with K2 That do not do FM above 144.8, that in Denmark are
> the border line to the the FM area (144.8 and up.)
>
> So trying to cover most used areas for CW and SSB i should properly align at 
> 144.3. Where the output from K2 should be at full level and no
> issues should be seen.
>
> Sometime i guess my education is of no use where looking at all the spec and 
> stuff are the thing to do, when just a little common sense it
> needed. :-)
>
> Br.
>
> OZ1BZJ Michael
>
> A engineer proberly expirence what one rock band has called a Momentary Lapse 
> of Reason
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue Feb 21 23:15 , "Don Wilhelm" sent:
>
>
> Michael,
>
> That is normal - the K2 spec for 10 meter coverage is 28.0 to 28.8 MHz at 10
> watts output and it falls off more rapidly at the high frequency end than
> the low end.
> You may be able to increase the usable coverage at the expense of the
> maximum available output by peaking the 10 meter bandpass filter at some
> frequency higher than the 28.2 point that is indicated in the manual. I
> would suggest peaking at 28.8 or even higher if you need to achieve good
> power output over the entire 28.0 to 30.0 MHz. If you do that, check the
> maximum power output at both ends of your chosen band and try to balance the
> maximum available power at both ends - adjust the peaking frequency up or
> down to achieve good coverage over your desired range.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> > -Original Message-
> >
> > The SSB Firmware was ok, version 1.8 so no problem there.
> >
> > Now i have found the issue on the K2, but not the solution. The desribed
> > issue seen on the low power out are comming from the 28-30 Mhz.
> > if i check
> > indicated power by the internal powermeter it drops over the
> > freq. with the
> > power set for 5W i do reach 5.4 W on 28 Mhz at 29 Mhz it is 4,9, still ok
> > but at 30 Mhz it is down at 0,3 W
> > So trying 10 W 29 Mhz only goes to same 4.9, so a rolloff on increasing
> > freq. are seen. Proberly normal, but passband seems to be to narrow ???
> >
> >
> > Any idea is this normal ??
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > Br.
> >
> > OZ1BZJ
> > Michael
> >
>
>
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[Elecraft] Problems with Alignment & test Part II

2006-02-22 Thread Dave
I am building a K2 and everything has been going fine until the "PLL
Reference Oscillator Range test". Pressing the Band+ switch does not change
the PLL reference display (12113). The Band- switch changes the reference
display to 12067. Pressing the Band + switch again displays the PLL
reference freq. of 12113. 

I looked for bad solder connections, incorrect or missing components and
could not find any. 

Pressing on with the alignment process I found that the "BFO range test"
gave similar results. In this case neither the band+ nor the band- displayed
the BFO range. The display stayed at 4912 khz. 

Any Ideas?

 

Dave N1IX

 

 

 

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[Elecraft] K2 internal battery.. (and MFJ headset)

2006-02-22 Thread David Douglass
Hi All,

Just a quick question(s)..

I've just finished my K2 and have a few of the options on order, including
the internal battery kit. I was reading the on-line manual and noticed the
info about supply voltage required to charge the battery. This states 14.0
+/- 0.2v at the jack, or 13.7 on the internal voltmeter.

I have a small switch-mode supply I use with the radio which according to my
DMM is giving 13.9v on the jack, but the internal voltmeter is reading only
13.3v. I have 2 cheap DMM's and they are both giving 13.9v on the jack, so
I'm hoping these are a little closer to the truth than the internal
voltmeter.

How critical is the 14v, and would it be too much of a problem if the supply
was actually running at 13.4 - 13.5v from the point of view of charging the
battery ??

On a different subject all together, I've also ordered the SSB module, and
was thinking of using an MFJ headset I've had sitting about for ages (model
MFJ-393). I just wondered whether anyone had tried one of these, and had any
thoughts (apart from the usual comments about MFJ !!). I'd planned to wire
the mic socket up with the 5.6k resistor supplied with SSB kit as the mic
element requires 1-9v. If this fails I have a MH-31 from my FT1000..

Cheers


David, Vk2NU





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Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Fun in ARRL DX test...

2006-02-22 Thread Curron HILL
" I would love to buy and build a 160-10M K1-9 that did not require module 
changes.  "

Amen to that, so would I !!!

73 de Don KB3DRW
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RE: [Elecraft] XV144 calibration

2006-02-22 Thread mj

Hi Guys 

Thanks Don, Matt and others answering on my issue.

I have now seen the light. I was deeply in to a engineering mode, where i tried 
to do everything according to spec. The spec on the XV144 say 
IF input from 28MHz to 30MHz and a output from 144-146 MHz. Then the thing need 
to operate in that area and the natural place for alignment 
would be 145MHz in the midt of the window. And being in engineering mode my 
thinking was that the K2 was designed to match the XV144

Now you guys brought me back to real world. Why would I run the transverter 
with K2 That do not do FM above 144.8, that in Denmark are 
the border line to the the FM area (144.8 and up.)

So trying to cover most used areas for CW and SSB i should properly align at 
144.3. Where the output from K2 should be at full level and no 
issues should be seen. 

Sometime i guess my education is of no use where looking at all the spec and 
stuff are the thing to do, when just a little common sense it 
needed. :-)

Br.

OZ1BZJ Michael 

A engineer proberly expirence what one rock band has called a Momentary Lapse 
of Reason 









On Tue Feb 21 23:15 , "Don Wilhelm" sent:


Michael,

That is normal - the K2 spec for 10 meter coverage is 28.0 to 28.8 MHz at 10
watts output and it falls off more rapidly at the high frequency end than
the low end.
You may be able to increase the usable coverage at the expense of the
maximum available output by peaking the 10 meter bandpass filter at some
frequency higher than the 28.2 point that is indicated in the manual. I
would suggest peaking at 28.8 or even higher if you need to achieve good
power output over the entire 28.0 to 30.0 MHz. If you do that, check the
maximum power output at both ends of your chosen band and try to balance the
maximum available power at both ends - adjust the peaking frequency up or
down to achieve good coverage over your desired range.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> The SSB Firmware was ok, version 1.8 so no problem there.
>
> Now i have found the issue on the K2, but not the solution. The desribed
> issue seen on the low power out are comming from the 28-30 Mhz.
> if i check
> indicated power by the internal powermeter it drops over the
> freq. with the
> power set for 5W i do reach 5.4 W on 28 Mhz at 29 Mhz it is 4,9, still ok
> but at 30 Mhz it is down at 0,3 W
> So trying 10 W 29 Mhz only goes to same 4.9, so a rolloff on increasing
> freq. are seen. Proberly normal, but passband seems to be to narrow ???
>
>
> Any idea is this normal ??
> Thanks in advance
>
> Br.
>
> OZ1BZJ
> Michael
>


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