RE: [Elecraft] Which one for me?
Larry W0OZ wrote: So, I can carry weight if I need to, but if I'm walking up a hill in a public park of some kind, I'll presumably be carrying a battery of some heft one way or another, I presume, if we're assuming operating for a long enough time it's going to be more than the built-in options. I haven't done this with ham gear yet, but surely, batteries aren't lightweight. -- Something that sometimes gets overlooked about the K2 is that, while it sports a "world class" receiver, that receiver was designed for low current drain for portable operation. You are likely to find the K2 easier on batteries that most of the competition. And it's designed for flexibility so you can change between a QRP (10 to 15 watt) portable rig with self-contained antenna tuner and battery to a hefty 100 watt CW/SSB rig by simply swapping tops. That way, you leave the weight of the 100 watt power supply behind along with the power supply for it . To really stretch your battery life, the power of the K2 can be turned down to less than 1 watt on transmit. If you do enough operating out in the field, you may find that you want more battery power than the K2 carries internally, but you are not likely to find a rig that will give you more hours of operation for a given battery weight or the flexibility of operation than the K2. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which one for me?
Francis Belliveau wrote: It seems to me that you are talking yourself into a K2. Might well be. You say that backpacking is not a big priority, but you may want that option. The K2 is definately the heaviest of the three but it also has the best receiver. I took one up a mountain for field day. It is not all that heavy by my standards, but others will likely say otherwise. I'll look into this. While it wouldn't be the primary item if I went K2, it is definitely something I want to be able to do when I wish. I am not a great physical specimen and like all too many of us, need to be in better shape. Way better. However, I am smart enough to at least train for major expeditions that involve carrying a lot of weight. I carry full packs for at least a week before going to the Boundary Waters, for instance. IIRC, I carried about 52 pounds in my pack last year and the Kevlar canoe was 45 or so. Longest portage was a mile with two half milers in there as well. If you saw a picture of me, you'd wonder how I made it. So, I can carry weight if I need to, but if I'm walking up a hill in a public park of some kind, I'll presumably be carrying a battery of some heft one way or another, I presume, if we're assuming operating for a long enough time it's going to be more than the built-in options. I haven't done this with ham gear yet, but surely, batteries aren't lightweight. So, obviously, the less the rig weighs the better. The more CW I send, the better, in that circumstance. What puzzles me about your lists is that they include a KXAT1, and a KAT1; yet when you strip the KPA100 off your list, you leave in the K160RX but do not include a KAT2. If you have little need for 80 why 160? Optimizing a little different. The "maxed out" K2, which I probably won't get anyway, "leans" a litte more towards the base station role deliberately. At home, I do operate 80. I have a Harris military amp that needs some fix or other, but when it runs, it (amazingly enough) takes 150 mA all the way up to the legal limit. That boat anchor, however, obviously does not go up the hill. Currently, runing an Ameritron amp, which has its place even when the Harris is working. Also, for field work having the internal tuner is a major benefit since you want to spend more time operating than tuning an antenna. Definitely a consideration. Certainly dropping the KPA100 and KDSP2 from the original list is the best way to minimize the price of the K2. This will still give you more power than either of the other two choices and is also the best choice for a replacement base station. Good Luck with making your choice. Fran K2 s/n 314 Thanks. The main issue really will probably turn out to be how much I want tied up in the backup rig. Won't see much use as the base station rig (the SDR has been wonderfully stable and forgiving), so the backpacking/mobiling considerations will be an issue, here and I really have to weigh out both roles. The real question might turn on how often I'll be operating out of a cabin / motel room instead of a true back pack. That, I don't really know. But, if I'd have had a KX1, I probably would have taken it on last year's trip. K2 also, but that's not as much of a slam dunk as the KX1 would have been. OTOH, the K2 would be a better choice if it does turn out to be a "normal" location most often. Still, I presume operating on some park's hilltop takes minimal prep and permissions. . . Larry WO0Z ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 drawing 5 ma turned off!
I lost a set of lithium batteries too. Go to N0SS's web site, http://www.n0ss.net/k6xx_cw_tun_ind_smd_v2_assy-align_kx1_ver.pdf and read the documentation for the KX1 version. Down near the end, there is a note on the page that shows a pictures of the wires and where they connect on the KX1's board. It mentions that the earlier version of the documentation had you connect the Tuning Indicator's power lead to the wrong side of the KX-1's on/off switch. John [K7SVV] On 4/16/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > While making some baseline measurements on my KX1 in preparation for the > install of the KXB-3080, I discovered a mysterious 5 ma draw with the rig > turned off but connected to an external 12v battery pack. > > It turns out that the K6XX visible tuning indicator I have installed draws > 5 ma continually regardless of the position of the power switch. > > I did the installation according to the instructions from Tom N0SS's > website. The indicator works great, and is a wonderful addition to the KX1, > since you cannot easily zero beat the a received signal (the sidetone menu > setting mutes the received audio, you need to have a good "audio" memory). > > I just wonder if this constant 5 ma draw might pose a problem if you leave > batteries in the internal battery holder unused for a long period of time -- > potential leakage perhaps. It's not likely to be an issue one just installs > batteries for a weekend's use, then takes them out. But before I had the > tuning indicator, I left my first set of lithium AAs in for about 6 months. > > After I'm done with the KXB-3080, I may look around for another point to > pick up V+ that is switched by the power switch. > > 73, > Mike N2HTT > > > > > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > -- John [K7SVV] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WTB: KDSP2
Looking for a KDSP2 built or unbuilt that may be "surplus to your needs". Thanks es 73, Stu W6CUX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for April 16th & 17th, 2006
Good Evening, The snow has stopped for a while. My poor daffodils are sprawled flat on the ground though. Hopefully they will recover when the warmth comes back. There was a short respite of sun toward the end of the day. This made life under the big, snow covered firs interesting. Whoomp every minute or so as the trees relieved themselves of their snow load. The dipoles are hung high in the trees so they are not in danger but the center guys do take a beating. Tuning my antenna for the twenty meter net was unusual since there was a three inch covering of snow. By the second net this was gone and tuning was more like normal. Twenty meters seemed quiet but when Dave checked in he kindly agreed to work folk from the other side of the Mississippi. Thank you, that was a great help! Ty has to take the award for the weakest signal I was able to dig out. I finally got his TF after five or six attempts. He jumped from non-existent, to ESP, to just barely readable. But the QSB sometimes works to gather in another station. On 40 meters the QSB was more on the other end because a number of folks mentioned their copy on me was poor. We also had lots of pigs flying around so I confused poor Bruce's call with N0TK who was working stations from CO. Sorry Bruce. BK TK ? I'll try harder next time. I need to write my FP number down so I can work a few folks when they stop by. Lloyd wanted my number but all I remembered was 700 something. Well, if you are reading this Lloyd I looked it up, I am FP #765 for the record. QTH: Buxton, Oregon (or, more accurately, the posh suburbs of Buxton :) On 14050 kHz at 2300z: AB8KJ - Chuck - MI - K1 - 1368 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 QNI #50!!! K4TO - Dave - KY - K2 - 4117 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422QNI #15! VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423S 0.5 at best ;) On 7045 kHz at 0200z: VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384 KB6CQ - Henry - OH - ? N0BK - Bruck - MN - K2 - 3646 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 AB8KJ - Chuck - MI - K1 - 1368 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423QNI #30!! AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 K3ESE - Lloyd - MD - K2 - 4442 If there are any correction or additions required to the above lists please email me and I will fix the database. I hope your Easter weekend went well. I had totally forgotten about it until someone wished me Happy Easter on 20 meters. Friday I was busy with taxes and probate and on Saturday software, hardware, and then a wedding. Today I was busy collecting more wood and working on getting a microcontroller to talk to the other computers on our network across Ethernet. Now to break the wired link and go wireless. That one may wind up either on one of my robots or in the greenhouse. Now if only I had a fast connection to the Internet so I could monitor the greenhouse while I am out and about. It would be nice to know a few details while I am gone. I'd probably just worry about my plants though. I've got to close the control loop so the watering and temperature regulation is automated. Then I'd get to do the fun parts: planting, weeding, watching, and harvesting. One of these days... Until next week stay warm and stay well. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Which one for me?
It seems to me that you are talking yourself into a K2. You say that backpacking is not a big priority, but you may want that option. The K2 is definately the heaviest of the three but it also has the best receiver. I took one up a mountain for field day. It is not all that heavy by my standards, but others will likely say otherwise. What puzzles me about your lists is that they include a KXAT1, and a KAT1; yet when you strip the KPA100 off your list, you leave in the K160RX but do not include a KAT2. If you have little need for 80 why 160? Also, for field work having the internal tuner is a major benefit since you want to spend more time operating than tuning an antenna. Certainly dropping the KPA100 and KDSP2 from the original list is the best way to minimize the price of the K2. This will still give you more power than either of the other two choices and is also the best choice for a replacement base station. Good Luck with making your choice. Fran K2 s/n 314 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 drawing 5 ma turned off!
While making some baseline measurements on my KX1 in preparation for the install of the KXB-3080, I discovered a mysterious 5 ma draw with the rig turned off but connected to an external 12v battery pack. It turns out that the K6XX visible tuning indicator I have installed draws 5 ma continually regardless of the position of the power switch. I did the installation according to the instructions from Tom N0SS's website. The indicator works great, and is a wonderful addition to the KX1, since you cannot easily zero beat the a received signal (the sidetone menu setting mutes the received audio, you need to have a good "audio" memory). I just wonder if this constant 5 ma draw might pose a problem if you leave batteries in the internal battery holder unused for a long period of time -- potential leakage perhaps. It's not likely to be an issue one just installs batteries for a weekend's use, then takes them out. But before I had the tuning indicator, I left my first set of lithium AAs in for about 6 months. After I'm done with the KXB-3080, I may look around for another point to pick up V+ that is switched by the power switch. 73, Mike N2HTT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Kdsp2 Problem - Initial Checkout No Go
PeteLooks like Easter weekend is pretty slow for getting help with your problem. Guess the tekkies are out of pocket. Unfortunately, I have not gone down the DSP road yet, so I'm not much help. In fact, I ordered the DSP accessory & the A to B upgrade for my K2/100 (#1411) on Friday. Looks like you've provided some good trouble-shooting information. The wrong voltages on the U-1 must be indicating a problem somewhere. I had a problem with one of my options & I contacted Elecraft Tech help & they sent me a replacement IC since the problem sounded like a b/o IC. Sure enough that was the problem. Another way to ck for bad solder joints would be to use a digital camera & shoot some shots that you could print out or just look at on computer screen. Good luck, I'll be watching to see what the problem is. 73 de K5AVJ Lynn == Hi, I hope someone can help me out with my KDSP2. On page 18 during initial checkout of unit and at the "rtc " display, I am unable to turn it on. That is , EDIT followed by BAND doesn't turn unit on. On power up of K2, the LED does come on briefly and turns off. AFIL held shows "not installed". I went to trouble shoot section in manual and did everything under error message ( removed U1, checked for bent pins, unwanted solder bridges, parts installed properly and in correct placement, and voltages on U1. Turned power on and off with no change. I did have a KAF installed before the DSP2 and it worked very well with no problems. = ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
I notice that these devices come with various ratings up to 30 amps. Please be aware that the cigarette lighter socket in your auto is probabably fused at five amps or so and the design of the cigarette lighter plug probably will not sustain more than five amps without melting down. I knowI have melted one in my car while running a laptop computer for my Street Atlas ProgramK4TO Richard Thorne wrote: Good idea John: I just check powerwerx.com and look what I found: http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3756&CtgID=1955 Rich - N5ZC - Original Message - From: "John D'Ausilio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Richard Thorne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:19 PM Subject: Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device now *that* thing is cool .. someone should come up with one of those with powerpoles mounted instead of bananas ... de w1rt/john On 4/16/06, Richard Thorne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I use one of these along with a cable I made, banna plugs on one end, power poles on the other. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=cigarette&CatId= ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
Good idea John: I just check powerwerx.com and look what I found: http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=3756&CtgID=1955 Rich - N5ZC - Original Message - From: "John D'Ausilio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Richard Thorne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:19 PM Subject: Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device now *that* thing is cool .. someone should come up with one of those with powerpoles mounted instead of bananas ... de w1rt/john On 4/16/06, Richard Thorne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I use one of these along with a cable I made, banna plugs on one end, power poles on the other. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=cigarette&CatId= ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
now *that* thing is cool .. someone should come up with one of those with powerpoles mounted instead of bananas ... de w1rt/john On 4/16/06, Richard Thorne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I use one of these along with a cable I made, banna plugs on one end, power > poles on the other. > > http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=cigarette&CatId= > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #2864 for sale
For sale, K2 #2864 good condition with KPA-100, KTA100-1, KSB2, K160RX, KDSP2. Very happy with rig, selling due to house move. Good results in many CW contests. Price $1500.00 US shipping extra. Tony, VE3RZ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.1/313 - Release Date: 15/04/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
I use one of these along with a cable I made, banna plugs on one end, power poles on the other. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=cigarette&CatId= Rich - N5ZC - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: ; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device In a message dated 4/16/06 2:12:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Here are some pictures of how I put in PowerPoles. Take a look at what I did and you might find a better idea... http://wa5znu.org/log/2006/04/radio-shack-powerup-with-anderson.html Slick! But a lot of work. I'll probably just make up a short pigtail with a pair of powerpoles and let them dangle. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Interface
Hi, I finally got my serial interface to the K2 in a "finished" box. Please take a look and let me know what you think. http://home.att.net/~info4mjs/ Thanks Mike, WA1SEO K2 SN: 4778 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RFTB in an hour
If anyone is still conscious, RFTB is in about an hour. Hopefully, I won't fall asleep and will see you there. I have a feeling first place will really be up for grabs tonight! 73 es oo Larry W2LJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
In this case, the external battery cables aren't fused, so I would have had to use the lighter jack anyway, and it's one more dongle to remember. Leigh/WA5ZNU On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 11:56 am, Phil Kane wrote: On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 11:10:58 -0700, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. wrote: Here are some pictures of how I put in PowerPoles. Take a look at what I did and you might find a better idea... http://wa5znu.org/log/2006/04/radio-shack-powerup-with-anderson.html What I do - and it's a lot easier - for such devices as power supplies or charger/battery combos is to cut the existing external cable about a foot or so from the end, install a pair of PPs on the battery part of the cable and another pair on the clamp part of the cable. No messing around with the innards of the devices, and if you need to use the device for its origibal purpose, it's ready to go. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Which one for me?
I'm thinking of a second rig and that possibly being an Elecraft. Here's the deal: 1. I've been spoiled or demanding, take your pick. Before I went inactive about 10 years ago, my rig was the Kenwood TS 930 which, by all accounts, had an excellent receiver. With modest antennas, I worked over 150 WAZ zones. The ability to do relatively (or actual!) weak signal HF work with it was important. I did not get my results primarily from stacked monobanders on 20 and working pileups. That was not me and probably never will be. 2. I now have the SDR 1000 as my primary rig. This rig was an idle dream of mine ten years ago brought to life today. I love the rig. It, too, has a pretty hot receiver, among many other things. No use pretending this one won't receive the bulk of my attention, now and always. However, the SDR 1000 is currently my only rig. I'm looking at some sort of secondary rig because there are times and places I just can't take today's SDR 1000 and there is no SDR even in prospect. Requirements for the second rig: 1. Be able to be put it into the station as a primary rig. Obviously to even be talking about the K1 or KX1 means a little compromise here. But, (cover your eyes QRPers) there is an Ameritron 500M that I could put in-line to get something like 40 watts output if I wanted to. A compromise to be sure over the 100 I normally run (the Ameritron is mostly used to boost my RTTY signal -- seldom over 100 watts anyhow), so that isn't as compromised as it sounds. Maybe the recent sunspot down cycle will do me in, but even with what I have, I've made reliable digital contacts with 30 watts on 40 and 20 meters in 2005. That would get me by while the SDR was in the shop (SDR's maker, Flex-radio, has offered regular upgrades for reasonable prices and I'm due for another). 2. Be able to take mobile / portable / backpacking. The SDR can also be used in these roles, within limits. At a cabin with 110 VAC, the SDR works fine. In a true backpacking role, I don't think so (the wonderful SDR receiver is too power hungry, for starters). Mobile probably works with the SDR, but it seems comparatively awkward compared to something more basic, especially as this would be a car and not an RV or camper or something where the SDR would be better served. I'm not a big backpacker and so on, but I do some of it (e.g., the Boundary Waters Canoe Area) and if I bother to take the gear, I'd like to have something that hears well in addition to working well. I'm probably more likely to use the rig in that role than true automobile mobiling, on my known history. I'd like have as many bands available as common sense allows. Interests change over time as does the sun. Here's the pros and cons as I so far see it (but, assume maximum ignorance): 1. The K2 (if I bothered with it) would be a pretty "full out" order. Probably: K2 K2 HF Transceiver599.00 KPA100 K2/100 Internal Int. Kit (w/RS232) 369.00 KDSP2 Advanced K2 DSP Filter 219.00 KSDB2 K2 SSB Option (includes RTTY et. al.) 99.00 K160RX K2 160M / 2nd RX antenna 39.00 FDIMP Finger Dimple for K1/K24.50 The truth is, while this is probably what I'd want to do, this is also probably too rich for my blood for a second rig. 2. The KX1 would be another possible choice. Probably: KX1 CW Xcvr 289.00 KXAT1 Internal ATU 79.00 KXB3080 30/80m adapter65.00 3. The K1 is so far in third place, but maybe it will jump up a bit. The K2 may be too rich for my blood after all (especially for a second rig) and I would miss 17 meters. Probably: K1-2 K1 w band 5W CW transceiver 289.00 KFL1-4 Additional Four Band Module 129.00 (all six bands, I presume) K1BKLTKIT-X Backlight mod kit 14.95 KAT1 Internal Auto antenna tuner99.00 KBT1 Internal battery adapter 44.00 KNB1 K1 Noise Blanker 35.00 FDIMP Finger Dimple for K1/K2 4.50 Still at about 630 dollars, shipped, the K1 is a bit step up in weight and price over the KX1. And, neither would allow data, which I would miss as much as SSB (actually, I wouldn't miss SSB all that much -- doing nearly none of it now -- RTTY matters, though). So, on the capability side, it would be all about operational convenience versus added weight, I assume. The main drawback of the KX1 over the K1 for me would be the loss of 17 meters. I'm mostly into DX, so losing 80 in a QRP mode would not be a big crushing loss. I don't (yet anyway) have the antenna farm to seriously think about 80 meter QRP DX. Keep in mind, too, that I simply am not a builder. Don't waste your time suggesting it (three solder joints is a lot for me). I'd have to work with one of the builders (seems easy enough -- e-mails are pending), but it boosts these prices a bit over Elecraf
Re: [QRP-L] Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
In a message dated 4/16/06 2:12:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Here are some pictures of how I put in PowerPoles. Take a look at what > I did and you might find a better idea... > http://wa5znu.org/log/2006/04/radio-shack-powerup-with-anderson.html > Slick! But a lot of work. I'll probably just make up a short pigtail with a pair of powerpoles and let them dangle. 73 de Jim, N2EY
[Elecraft] Exensively Updated Rework Eliminators(TM) Companion Guide
Three months ago Ken and I first published our Rework Eliminators(TM) Companion Guide on our website, which describes how to build a rework-free "Plug & Play Ready" K2. Since its release we received feedback from users that our documentation was a bit intimidating for someone unfamiliar with the K2, and especially so for our international customers for whom English is a second language. To address this issue, we have extensively updated the front portion of the guide, adding a new section for first-time builders that graphically shows the relationship between the K2 and its internal options. We have also drastically consolidated the existing material. The latest version of the guide is available at http://www.unpcbs.com/docs/pdfs/CompanionGuide.pdf We are also working our website to make it more friendly to someone who has yet to build their first K2. As time permits we will be reorganizing and simplifying our site to make it more "surf" friendly for everyone (first-time builders through builders-for-hire). Our homepage is http://www.unpcbs.com/. We welcome your comments. 73, Gary, KI4GGX K2 #4067 P.S. The actual assembly instructions in the Companion Guide are essentially unchanged. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Stripping enamel from toroid wires
John AB8WH wrote: When soldering the toroid in, I also heat the pad a little longer than usual to assure a clean joint. Can't do this too long, though or you'll pop the pad. - Your technique of starting at the cut end is a good one. I've seen it recommended elsewhere too. I know some long-term builders who very successfully heat their toroid wires far more than I would while soldering them in place. They get away with it because they've developed a technique through long practice. As we gain experience we develop our own methods, and that's FB. When writing the assembly instructions we try to be conservative so the builder will be successful the first time, even if he/she has never done that procedure before. I think the real serious mistake most builders make that leads to the dreaded poorly-tinned toroid lead (PTTL) problems doesn't have much to do with how well they tin the leads as *where* they tin the leads. That is, they tin the leads up near the body of the toroid but not close enough so that when they pull the leads through the pads, they pull all the nicely-tinned lead through and end up with a section of enameled wire in the solder pad hole! Normally, it's FB to tin the wire all the way up to the core. I even unwrap a quarter turn to make sure the well-tinned wire goes to where it touches the core. The cores are not conductors, and it doesn't hurt if the tinned wire touches it. One only has to be careful of transformers in which the windings could be shorted if the tinned wires touch each other. Another important point is to *not* pull the wires too tight through the pads. I just pull 'em snug and bend them over on the opposite side and solder, like any other component lead. Tugging with the pliers while soldering makes it easy to sometimes pull enough wire off of the core that the enameled wire gets pulled into the pad again, and some builders have been frustrated to have the wire break away from the toroid core when they pulled just a bit too hard. And then there's the "cold solder" joint that results if the wire being held tightly in the pliers is released a moment too soon after heating the pad so it moves slightly while the solder is still plastic. It may seem very solidly soldered in the hole, but it is a poor joint that will come back to haunt the builder later with a high-resistance or intermittent connection developing as oxidation builds up around the wire. It'll behave much the same as a connection that was never soldered, but it's a lot harder to spot than an unsoldered lead. As usual, I find that extreme measures normally create more problems than solutions, whether we're trying to build a rig, fix a leaky faucet or get along with our neighbors I recommend checking after soldering each toroid lead to be sure solder clearly flowed up onto the wire "above" the solder pad on the toroid side. If the enameled wire seem to "dive" right into a now-hard puddle of solder in the pad, that's a clear sign that part of the wire is not making contact the pad. If they're lucky the bottom end did, but Gary regularly discovers new rigs sent to him for 'repair' that have the wire well-trapped in the solder in the pad but which never make contact with the pad through the sheath of enamel that extends all the way to where it was clipped on the bottom of the board. If it's inspected with a strong magnifier, it's sometimes possible to see a tiny black ring around the wire where it exits the solder. That's the enamel keeping the wire from making contact with the pad. That's not a fool-proof check, though, since it's sometimes very hard to see the ring. Having spoken for tinning the wire all the way to the toroid core, I should point out that it is *not always* the thing to do, but when it is not, it's described in the assembly procedure step. For example, in the KXB3080 installation, there's a small daughter board with two toroids on it and the solder pads are very close together. One wire runs very, very close to another wire's solder pad as it loops around the edge of the daughter board to its own solder pad behind it. We tell the builder to leave 1/8" of enamel on that wire just to avoid the possibility of a short circuit in case it gets pushed against the solder pad. There are been a number of builders who didn't read the procedure and tinned the wire all the way to the core. Then they had to troubleshoot the KXB3080 assembly to locate the short. It's an easy fix: just pull the wire away from the pad, but it underscores the importance of reading the procedures. Even highly-experienced builders need to read each step and note the critical information even if their method of doing the job is a little different from what is described. I tell builders to imagine they are defusing a bomb instead of building their rig. Feel free to skip over any steps that they're willing to bet their lives on . Some years ago I wrote a procedure for defusing explosives
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering stations
You do change the tip to change the temperature -- from your message 'the temerature controlling element in the Weller is the tip', and 'I use a PTB7 tip'. The 7 in the part number is the temperature of the tip. It is a 700 deg F tip. Mark AD5SS On 4/15/06, Jeremiah McCarthy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Once again I read about having to change the tip in the Weller WTCP soldering > station in order to change the temperature...This is just not so and makes me > wonder if I am listening to someone who has never used the Weller...I have > both the Weller WTCP and the Hakko 936 and the Weller wins, hands down...In > my working days, over 40 years of soldering, I used Wellers, Paces, Edsyns, > you name it, the Weller WTCP is my first choice...And, it is MADE IN THE > USA!!!... > > The temperature controlling element in the Weller is the tip..If the tip is > not hot enough, the heater will come on and STAY on until it is hot > enough...The Hakko's temperature is controlled by a thermostat that is > mounted on the heater up inside the handle...It is controlling the > temperature of the heater, not the tip, and is at the top of the heater, as > far away from the tip as you can get...I have had instances with my Hakko > where the solder wire welded itself to the tip and would not come loose until > the tip heated more, yet the idiot light on the control unit was flashing > merrily on and off, indicating it was hot enough... > > I use a PTB7 tip in the Weller for 99% of my work, including soldering the > ground pins on the BNC connectors in the KX1 and the binocular cores in the > KPA100...I have been using the same tip for years and it never > discolors...The only time I have ever had to change a tip is when working > room was the problem...We would have to change the tip in any iron under > those circumstances, wouldn't we?... > > My Hakko 936 is for sale...It has been used once, is effectively new, is > still in original wraps in the original box, and comes with 2 extra tips and > a brass-wool tip cleaner, and I will guarantee it...The first $65 dollar > check takes it... > > Jerry, wa2dkg > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 11:10:58 -0700, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. wrote: >Here are some pictures of how I put in PowerPoles. Take a look at what >I did and you might find a better idea... >http://wa5znu.org/log/2006/04/radio-shack-powerup-with-anderson.html I am an avid user and supporter of Anderson PowerPoles. I buy mine by the dozens for installation on my gear and that of the three ARES fixed installations that I support. What I do - and it's a lot easier - for such devices as power supplies or charger/battery combos is to cut the existing external cable about a foot or so from the end, install a pair of PPs on the battery part of the cable and another pair on the clamp part of the cable. No messing around with the innards of the devices, and if you need to use the device for its origibal purpose, it's ready to go. The key to the above is the quality of the crimps. Although the ratchet tool is relatively expensive ($60 price class), the proper crimp makes all the difference in ease of installation and current capacity of the connector. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
On Sun, 16 Apr 2006 11:10:58 -0700, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr. wrote: >Here are some pictures of how I put in PowerPoles. Take a look at what >I did and you might find a better idea... >http://wa5znu.org/log/2006/04/radio-shack-powerup-with-anderson.html I am an avid user and supporter of Anderson PowerPoles. I buy mine by the dozens for installation on my gear and that of the three ARES fixed installations that I support. What I do - and it's a lot easier - for such devices as power supplies or charger/battery combos is to cut the existing external cable about a foot or so from the end, install a pair of PPs on the battery part of the cable and another pair on the clamp part of the cable. No messing around with the innards of the devices, and if you need to use the device for its origibal purpose, it's ready to go. The key to the above is the quality of the crimps. Although the ratchet tool is relatively expensive ($60 price class), the proper crimp makes all the difference in ease of installation and current capacity of the connector. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
Him, Here are some pictures of how I put in PowerPoles. Take a look at what I did and you might find a better idea... http://wa5znu.org/log/2006/04/radio-shack-powerup-with-anderson.html Leigh. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now I'm going to install power poles and see how long it can run a K2 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] soldering station info, from a guy who
> As you'd expect, for professional use, the Pace and > the Metcal are the most costly - and the "best" at > what they do. I'm curious what makes one unit better than another other than the obvious differences between a temperature-controlled iron and a $10 radio shack unit. Are you thinking of technical issues like recovery time and supporting multiple irons/accessories or is it subjective issues like size, weight, feel, cord length, etc? I've got a Hakko 936 that does a fine job, and I'm having a hard time imagining what else it could do that would make it "better". I thought I'd chime in here about Metcal - I bought a Metcal SP200 on advice from a friend some years ago (late 90s); the SP200 was at the time probably their cheapest and most basic model, and I hadn't heard of hakko, etc. It was not terribly expensive, but at the high end of pricing for some other types I looked at (I don't recall how much.) Anyway, the Metcal (at least this one) has no controls at all - just on/off - temperature is controlled by interaction of the power supply and composition of materials in the body of the tip, but as I began using it, I discovered it could handle very tiny soldering without overheating (or underheating) the joint then quickly handle a very large, thermally massive object (such as tinning or soldering a large metal object such as a PL259), and then be able to go back to some small solder joint, all without waiting but a few seconds at most between applications or from a cold start (I can hear the power supply unit hum slightly when it's heating the solder tip, and the hum would persist a bit more while soldering a large object.) From what I've read recently about soldering with the new types of non-lead solder involved (I've not tried), I'm not sure if it would be satisfactory (perhaps it's got an upgrade - I haven't checked) as the temperature is set by the tip itself and seemed calibrated to garden-variety solder of the time. Anyway, just posting this to help satisfy curiosity about Metcal... 73 Dave WB0GAZ [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Radio Shack "Power Up" Device
Folks, There was some discussion about this product recently. Got mine at the RS in Paoli PA. They had two, but one had been opened/returned, and the salesguy went out of his way to give me the *unopened* one. Took it home and charged it up. About 18 hours of charging gave me a the green LED. I haven't taken voltage readings yet. I had some doubts that it could jump start a car. Then my brother needed to jump start his 1976 2002 (it doesn't get driven in bad weather, and his charger turned out to have gone bad just when he needed it). The RS device had enough juice to boost the 2002's battery and get the car started. Now I'm going to install power poles and see how long it can run a K2 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Stripping enamel from toroid wires
Ron, I found a similar technique that improves the ease of stripping. I start the blob of solder on the very end of the wire, so it heats the copper directly, then I drag the blob toward the toroid...seems to work for me. When soldering the toroid in, I also heat the pad a little longer than usual to assure a clean joint. Can't do this too long, though or you'll pop the pad. I am awaiting a part (diode) from Elecraft (they've been great). This is the only thing between me and Alignment Part II. I'm DYING to actually receive on 40M. Then I'll relax and realize that this thing, in my hands, will actually work! John AB8WH ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Soldering stations
On Sunday 16 April 2006 10:26, Jeremiah McCarthy wrote: > if solder won't flow, do not raise the heat, use a bigger iron I used my 15 W Antex soldering iron that I bought in 1971 to build my K2. I like it so much that I use a voltage doubling and mains isolating transformer to use it here. I have a crude 30 W from Radioshack for more heat and a 60 W equivalent butane powered iron that works on aerial wires and connectors outside. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Kdsp2 Problem - Initial Checkout No Go
Hi, I hope someone can help me out with my KDSP2. On page 18 during initial checkout of unit and at the "rtc " display, I am unable to turn it on. That is , EDIT followed by BAND doesn't turn unit on. On power up of K2, the LED does come on briefly and turns off. AFIL held shows "not installed". I went to trouble shoot section in manual and did everything under error message ( removed U1, checked for bent pins, unwanted solder bridges, parts installed properly and in correct placement, and voltages on U1. Turned power on and off with no change. I did have a KAF installed before the DSP2 and it worked very well with no problems. The voltages present on U1 are: PIN 5 = 5.02 V ( should be 0 ) Pin 14 = 0 V ( should be 5.0 v ) Pin 15 - 19 = 5.02 V ( should be 0 V ) Pin 20 - 24 = OK Voltages Pin 25 = 0.2 - 0.4 V (should be 0 V ) Pin 27 = 5.04 V( should be 0 V ) Pins 26 + 28 = 0 V OK K2 does have 2.04P and IOC 1.09 firmware upgrades. K2 was a version A ( pre-3000) and did A to B upgrade). This could be a Lyle Johnson solution but I'll take suggestions from anyone who has encountered a similar problem with their KDSP2. 73, Pete KB2OFC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering stations
Some minor points. 1.) Tom Hammond and I have discussed this before on the Elecraft reflector, but seems like it is a FAQ that always needs repeating. IF an Elecraft builder is attempting to use ONE soldering tip and just change temperatures (knob) for assembling an Elecraft K2 kit -- they are likely using BAD soldering techniques/skills (or were never properly taught soldering techniques) - and risk overheating or producing poor solder joints or worse - lifting solder pad from the PC boards. 2.) The Soldering tip MUST be of the proper profile (e.g. conical, screwdriver, single flat) and mass (.062"; .031", .093") for the specific soldering joint being heated. Temperature is the THIRD variable of the 3 variables for proper soldering. TYPICAL BAD TECHNIQUES: + Cranking the temperature dial beyond 800 degrees and using a small tip for a large soldering joint. + Constantly changing tip temperature during a soldering session (e.g soldering's version of the golden screwdriver problem) + Not understanding the characteristics of the solder being used. Is it a Eutectic? What is it's melting temperature? + Using large diameter solder (> .031 or .050") for small PC work - which regularly places too much solder on joint + Not using properly sized solder tip for work area + Not properly cleaning and tinning the solder tip before shut down of station for evening REASON FOR A TEMPERATURE KNOB + Various alloys of solder (e.g. tin-lead, silver solder, no-lead solder) have different temperature/melting characteristics. + While most DIY may start with tin-lead alloys, permits transition to no-lead in future without significant change in tool investment + Station is able to perform a wide variety of different works typical in marketplace (general repair shop, DIY home user) + Most station have a temperature lock feature - to permit production assembly usage (and avoid knob twisters on the assembling line) - that will cause "out of spec" joints - critical for DoD and Military assembly work as well as "rework" BTW, Weller was made in the US until 2002. In 2002, Cooper Tools (Houston) moved the entire plant to Mexico - HQ and repair services are still in Apex, NC While this dropped the cost structure to that of other manufacturer's imports (e.g. Japan and China) -- it took over a year (most of 2003) to get the quality and consistency - at the levels of the Far East imports. It did not help that Cooper Tools was "shopping the business" (looking to sell division or spin off to separate company) during this same period. The last remaining workers from Carl Weller's days at Weller Electric in Easton, PA (1970 or earlier) have now reached retirement age. Greg w9gb Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 18:14:48 -0700 From: Alexandra Carter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Soldering stations To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed WRONG. You do have to change the tip on the Magnetrol type Weller stations, of which the WTCPT is one, that's the beauty of it - no nimrod technicians cranking a variable control up to 900 degrees and lifting pads. I was just in fry's today buying two tips for my own beloved WTCPT, a 700 degree fine point tip and an 800 degree flat tip. 73 de Alex NS6Y (whose KX1 LED turns out to be white after all). On Apr 15, 2006, at 3:13 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Jerry WA2DKG wrote: Once again I read about having to change the tip in the Weller WTCP soldering station in order to change the temperature...This is just not so and makes me wonder if I am listening to someone who has never used the Weller...I have both the Weller WTCP and the Hakko 936 and the Weller wins, hands down...In my working days, over 40 years of soldering, I used Wellers, Paces, Edsyns, you name it, the Weller WTCP is my first choice...And, it is MADE IN THE USA!!!... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Soldering stations
When I was going through certification for soldering at Grumman back in the '60's, the mantra was, if the solder won't flow, do not raise the heat, use a bigger iron...It makes sense, solder melts a 361 degrees regardless of the size of the job.. I remember trying to solder strain gauges on landing gear struts outdoors in zero degree wind chills...Didn't work until we got the bird indoors... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Dead U1?
Hi folks, I'm in the process of installing the KXB3080 adapter in my KX1. All went well until page 11 of the installation, checking current drain and voltages. I had a slightly high current drain (42 mA) and while thinking about this I suspect I've absent-mindedly poked something with the power on and zapped U1. Until then I had the revised 1.02 firmware installed and apparently working OK with my previous parameters in place, now I've got no display or sign of life from the firmware. Replacing the 1.02 firmware with the previous 1.01 version returns life back to the KX1 with a normal display, full tuning, band change, etc. To me that says I've zapped U1 and just need to buy another or could there be another cause I'm not aware of? Thanks, Stuart G0MJG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
