RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Jim, K9YC wrote:
Proximity to the radio is meaningless. The following comments 
apply to virtually ALL Ethernet devices, including your computers. 
What matters are:

1) The antennas connected to the Ethernet device -- their length, 
and their proximity to YOUR antennas (but NOT to your radio)



My router for a while sat a on a shelf just about 20 inches from my
link-coupled tuner. This is an "open" tuner design using a large 3" dia by
10" long open coil with a big transmitting-type variable cap across it (you
can see a picture of it on www.QRZ.com; just look up AC7AC. The router was
on a shelf under the desk about where my knees are in the picture). 

Sure, this is a balanced antenna system and the idea is to prevent pickup
and radiation from the balanced feed and tuner, but the balance is never
perfect. As the photo shows, the feeders drop down near the table top (and
the wireless router just below) where they pass through a header to the
outside.  

As I wrote before, digital stuff generates noise; I'd be the last person to
deny that. It's sometimes very hard to do anything effective about it.
Still, the situation varies so much from installation to installation that
only the most general "rules of thumb" might suggest what an particular
installation will produce. 

That is what I was trying to convey by relating my particular experience. 

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] Value of K2??

[Jay Kesterson]

 I have someone interested in buying my much neglected K2. Since I have 
only put about two hours on the rig it should go to someone that will 
put it to use. But need to get an idea of it's value. I searched the 
archives and got few hints. Would appreciate ideas as to the value by 
either post or Email.


K2 # 3745
K160RX
KNB2
KSB2
Built by a builder listed on Elecraft site. Keying mod kit and firmware 
installed when K2 was built.

Purchased Feb 2004 - Built Aug 2004

thanks,

73, Jay K0GU
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RE: [Elecraft] FS: Elecraft KX-1 (4 band)

[RJD]

It would be nice if you would mention here that this is only "for sale" in
Canada!

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 03:49
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FS: Elecraft KX-1 (4 band)

FS: Elecraft KX-1 (4 band) with all options, including Pelican Microcase 
1060, earbuds, antenna binding post, etc.

See item number 35937968 on eBay.

Thanks.

J-F / VA2VYZ
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RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Ken Alexander]

--- Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> These digital things are disasters waiting to happen
> to any analog gear
> within range, as far as I'm concerned. They're like
> a girl friend I had in
> college. Having her around offered some astounding
> benefits but they came
> with some very significant disadvantages too...
> Ron AC7AC

Oddly enough, the disadvantages to both usually have
to do with excessive noise!  ...just an observation.

73,

Ken Alexander
VE3HLS
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RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Jim Brown]

>that has been sitting as close as two feet from my K2 with no
>problems that I noticed.

Proximity to the radio is meaningless. The following comments 
apply to virtually ALL Ethernet devices, including your computers. 
What matters are:

1) The antennas connected to the Ethernet device -- their length, 
and their proximity to YOUR antennas (but NOT to your radio). 

2) The design of the device with respect to SHIELDING of its own 
internal wiring

3) The design of the device with respect to the internal 
generation of RF trash

4) The design of the device with respect to keeping whatever trash 
it produces off the antennas connected to it. 

5) The directivity of the ham antennas and the Ethernet antennas. 

Ah, you say, you don't connect antennas to it, only Ethernet 
cables and a power supply lead. And if it's a router, the Cable TV 
coax or DSL connection. But even though we don't call them 
antennas, they ARE antennas, and they will radiate whatever RF 
trash they carry just like any other antenna. 

I have yet to find a piece of Ethernet gear that doesn't put out 
trash on the ham bands. Some are worse than others, and Linksys 
has been viewed as really bad. But when I switched to Netgear 
switches to get rid of noise, I noticed no difference!  

MOST of the noise in the equipment I've tested comes out of the 
box as a COMMON MODE signal, and is radiated by those cables as if 
they were a long wire antenna. The good news is that the noise can 
be greatly reduced by winding some turns of both the Ethernet 
cables and the power supply cables around the RIGHT ferrite 
toroids. Once you do that, you're left with what comes out of the 
box due to poor shielding. And, of course, whatever is radiated by 
your neighbors systems that are close enough to your radio 
antennas to be loud enough to hear. [You can identify 10BaseT 
Ethernet as the source by listening around 10,106 kHz, 10,120 kHz, 
14,030 kHz, 21,052 kHz for strong carriers with some subtle 
modulation. While we buy 100BaseT gear, it carries both 10BaseT 
and 100BaseT traffic, and most routers and modems talk 10BaseT. 
These carriers are not based on a clock with a tight frequency 
tolerance, so every system is running on a slightly different 
frequency. That's why, for example, you will hear carriers between 
about 14,029 and 14,030.5 kHz.]  

I just moved from a city lot in Chicago (neighbors 15 ft from my 
house in every direction) to a rural area in CA (one neighbor 250 
ft, another 350 ft, others at least double that). In Chicago, my 
ham antennas were all within 20 ft of Ethernet cables. Here in CA, 
the closest ones are at least three times that distance. In 
Chicago, I could get my own trash down to a bit above the noise 
level, but I still heard my neighbors loud and clear. Here in CA, 
I don't hear anything from these Ethernet systems, even though my 
noise level on the ham bands is way down too! 

There is a detailed tutorial on ferrites on my website, along with 
presentations I've done to a couple of ham clubs. All can be 
downloaded as pdf files. No cost, no cookies. 

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish

BTW -- shielded Ethernet cable doesn't help -- for the shield to 
do anything, it would need to be connected at both ends, and you 
would be hard put with these boxes to find a connection that meant 
anything. 

73,
Jim Brown K9YC


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[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft KX-1 (4 band)

[JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD]

FS: Elecraft KX-1 (4 band) with all options, including Pelican Microcase 
1060, earbuds, antenna binding post, etc.


See item number 35937968 on eBay.

Thanks.

J-F / VA2VYZ
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RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Paul Rubin]

Ron:

First a correction. The Router is a WRT54, the first in the series. Not the
newer G models.

I get noise of significant magnitude all the way up to about 17 Mhz, with
occasional huge spikes, as the one at 700. I don't hear it at just 2 feet. I
hear it at 50 feet, in the backyard, in the car in the driveway, and on
every communications receiver in the house fed from a Butternut HV-9, or a
66 ft dipole at 40 ft. I'm not saying this degree of noise is typical of
other Lynksys products, or even of other WRT54's, just mine.

I seem to remember the ARRL had some sort of RFI testing program for
consumer products. I should send it to them.

73  Paul  N8NOV






>Hmmm.. I have a linksys BEFW11S4 802.11b (2.4 GHz) four-port + wireless
router that has been sitting as close as two feet from my K2 with no
problems that I noticed. I don't listen to 700 kHz that often though so I
grabbed my portable BCB receiver and sure 'nuf, there's broadband  hash
about 700 kHz but only within a foot or two of the router. Six feet away and
I can't hear a thing! 



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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for July 9th & 10th, 2006

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   My K2's fan is still running so this is truly hot off the presses :)   
We worked through a bit of noise on 20 meters but a lot more on 40  
meters.  There were some truly weak signals.  We did have a CME hit a  
glancing blow to the Earth but the noise was from thunderstorms and the  
weak signals were from odd paths.  One station Tom caught while I was  
copying along may show our path was a bit longer than normal: OK1YNM.   
Last week I moved the net frequency a bit due to an SM station.  This week  
we get a QNI from the Czech Republic!
   It grew hot here today but during the first net the shadows dropped on  
to my radio shack's window.  That helped my keying since my arm was no  
longer sticking to the desk.  I've tried papers to eliminate that problem  
but it only leads to my arm skidding around.  Maybe a towel would work  
better.  What do you folks use for a remedy?


On to the lists =>

On 14050 kHz at 2253z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 43
N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
N9IV - Russ - IN - K2 - 4650
VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384
KI8JM - Bob - OH - K2 - 3630
VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968   I did copy X1 though.  Are you building a  
new one?

OK1YNM - Broz - CZ
WB2SSB - Joe - NY - K2 - 5047
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
N0BK - Bruce - MN - K2 - 3646
W0SZ - Steve - CO - K2 - 4088QNI #15!

On 7045.50 kHz at 0200z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K2 - 43
K2VCO - Vic - CA - K2 - 709QNI #5!
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866
NK6A - Don - CA - ? - 227
VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384

Any fills or corrections are appreciated.  Please send me an email with  
the information and I'll log it into my database.  Another fun evening.   
Now I need to get my chores done and get off to bed.  A long week is ahead  
of me but it should hold some fun too.  I have volunteered for comms  
during our local airshow.  The training meeting is on Wednesday evening.   
The day we volunteered to work (yes Pat and I both volunteered) is  
Saturday.  I'll hopefully have recovered by net time the next day.   
Sunscreen, hat, hearing protection, HT with spare batteries, and plenty of  
water.  I just need to remember to say something when I hit the PTT.   
Silly thing does not send my callsign automatically like my paddles do.  I  
may need to write my callsign down so I remember how to say it too!


Until next week stay well,
   73,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)
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RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hmmm.. I have a linksys BEFW11S4 802.11b (2.4 GHz) four-port + wireless
router that has been sitting as close as two feet from my K2 with no
problems that I noticed. I don't listen to 700 kHz that often though so I
grabbed my portable BCB receiver and sure 'nuf, there's broadband  hash
about 700 kHz but only within a foot or two of the router. Six feet away and
I can't hear a thing! 

These digital things are disasters waiting to happen to any analog gear
within range, as far as I'm concerned. They're like a girl friend I had in
college. Having her around offered some astounding benefits but they came
with some very significant disadvantages too...
Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Rubin
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:51 PM
To: 'Chuck Gehring'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations



I want to know too.

I have a Linksys WRT54G which is about three years old. It produces so much
noise that I can't even listen to the local BCB station on 700KHz.

I thought that the 12V switching PS was responsible, but when I ran it off a
linear supply, the condition was unchanged. 

I went back to using an old Netgear 11 Mb/s router, but now need a new one,
and an access point for full house coverage.

Paul  N8NOV

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RE: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Paul Rubin]

I want to know too.

I have a Linksys WRT54G which is about three years old. It produces so much
noise that I can't even listen to the local BCB station on 700KHz.

I thought that the 12V switching PS was responsible, but when I ran it off a
linear supply, the condition was unchanged. 

I went back to using an old Netgear 11 Mb/s router, but now need a new one,
and an access point for full house coverage.

Paul  N8NOV

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Re: [Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[ron]

why off-line??
We want to know too!

Ron wb1hga

Chuck Gehring wrote:
   I would like to solicit recommendations for routers.  I have 
heard some

  reports about QRM from various routers.


  I am currently considering the Linksys Wireless-N WRT300N.
  Recommendations and replies off-line would be appreciated.

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[Elecraft] Diana Morse KB3NNP on the air

[Ron Polityka]

Hello,

Just finished talking to Diana on the phone. I was helping her get the rig 
on the air so she can make a couple of QSO's tonight.


She will be on either 40 or 80 meter Novice bands calling CQ around 04:00 
UTC.


If you talked to her, tell her that Ron says hello!!

She will be on the air from the State of NH for a few weeks. She is staying 
in a cabin near Mount Washington.


I have the rig on now but the S-40 ++ static crashes is making it impossible 
to hear anyone.


72 and Thanks,
Ron Polityka
WB3AAL
www.wb3aal.com
www.n3epa.org 



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[Elecraft] Re: Building the KSB2 SSB adapter

[wayne burdick]

While building the KSB2 SSB adapter I noticed something strange on 
page

11. The drawing for T1 and T2 shows winding 3/4 wound in one direction
and 1/2 wound in the opposite sense


Mike,

I believe the drawing is correct. It shows two windings that are wound 
with different colors of wire. Unless there's a misprint, you should 
see the 3-4 winding in a lighter color than the 1-2 winding.


While it may appear that there's a reversal, you'll find that after 
winding it, yours looks very similar. Neither winding changes 
direction, and both are wound in the same "sense."


Let me know if it's still confusing after you perform all of the steps 
on page 11. I could clarify something in the next revision if 
necessary.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 high current on xmit

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Yes, a bad Q24 could possibly cause that problem.  Q24 has the VALC signal
applied to it, and that signal is the result of the K2 firmware attempting
to control the power output.  The action of Q24 is to control the amount of
BFO signal that is injected into the transmit chain.

Try it again with the new Q24 and let us know if you still have a problem -
there could be an error in the RF Detector or the path for the VRFDET
signal.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Knapp
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 7:50 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K2 high current on xmit
>
>
> Hi all. I am building K2 #5644 and got to alignment part 3. However,
> whenever I keyed the transmitter at 2W on any band, the power would
> shoot up to 19-20 W and a high current message would come up.
>
> In addition, I noticed that when I keep the power at 0.1 W, the
> transmitter would work fine (clean CW output when I listened on my other
> rig). This allowed me to check transmit voltages on the PA as well as
> other transmit circuitry. This led me to find that Q24 was bad. I'm just
> curious if Q24 failing would cause this kind of behavior.
>
> Thanks,
> -Mike N8YO
> K2 #5644
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Tony Morgan]

How about making our own Hex Key covers?

Tony W7GO


- Original Message - 
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:32 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass


The trick is often in cutting or drilling it cleanly and squarely without
melting or scratching it, and in polishing the edges. The nice thing about a
place like Tap Plastics is you take a template or dimensions to the store
and in a few minutes you walk out with nicely cut, polished and even drilled
materials ready to use! They'll even glue up assemblies requiring more than
one piece.

It's a great service! I'd be very surprised it was only available on the
west coast of the USA. If so, I suspect it's a business someone could do
very well with in our do-it-yourself culture.

Ron AC7AC




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RE: [Elecraft] Building the KSB2 SSB adapter

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

It really does not matter since these are just used as transformers (as
opposed to transmission line transformers).  In fact, I believe the toroids
that The Toroid Guy winds have both windings in the same direction just
because it is a little neater that way.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> While building the KSB2 SSB adapter I noticed something strange on page
> 11. The drawing for T1 and T2 shows winding 3/4 wound in one direction
> and 1/2 wound in the opposite sense. My experience is that typically
> both winding are in the same rotation. Is the drawing correct or should
> both windings be in the same direction?
> Thanks
> Mike WA6ARA
>

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[Elecraft] Wireless Router Recommendations

[Chuck Gehring]

I am getting ready to add a wireless router to my QTH computer set-up, the
XYL wants to be able to move room to room with her Notebook computer.  I
would like to solicit recommendations for routers.  I have heard some
reports about QRM from various routers.  I only have one radio, my K2 and it
will be about 2 feet from the computer and the router antenna about 2-3
feet.   I am currently considering the Linksys Wireless-N WRT300N.
Recommendations and replies off-line would be appreciated.

73 K2CG
Chuck Gehring
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Re: [Elecraft] ARCI Summer Sprint

[N0tk]

Steve
Got on 20m with 10 minutes to go in the sprint. Worked FL, NH,VT and had a  
call from a QRP station in ME that I lost to QSB. Signals peaked at S7 and QSB  
down below the noise level. 
Dan N0TK
Highlands Ranch,CO
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[Elecraft] Kt-2 kit wanted

[Don Richards]

I am considering putting a K2 kit together. Perhaps there is someone 
who, after opening the box and looking at the manual and parts, decided 
NOT to take on the "challenge".  For those who remember the old Heathkit 
name, I assembled a number of their kits in the past so the K2 seems a 
good way to keep this "retiree" busy.  I do NOT want to take on a 
"partially" assembled K2; if  your kit is basically an "unopened" 
package of current vintage I would appreciate knowing the serial number, 
what "options" are included, and your "price".  Please respond directly 
to my mail address at:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]


W7UPF

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[Elecraft] K2 high current on xmit

[Mike Knapp]

Hi all. I am building K2 #5644 and got to alignment part 3. However, 
whenever I keyed the transmitter at 2W on any band, the power would 
shoot up to 19-20 W and a high current message would come up.


In addition, I noticed that when I keep the power at 0.1 W, the 
transmitter would work fine (clean CW output when I listened on my other 
rig). This allowed me to check transmit voltages on the PA as well as 
other transmit circuitry. This led me to find that Q24 was bad. I'm just 
curious if Q24 failing would cause this kind of behavior.


Thanks,
-Mike N8YO
K2 #5644
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[Elecraft] Building the KSB2 SSB adapter

[Mike and Paula Herr]

While building the KSB2 SSB adapter I noticed something strange on page 
11. The drawing for T1 and T2 shows winding 3/4 wound in one direction 
and 1/2 wound in the opposite sense. My experience is that typically 
both winding are in the same rotation. Is the drawing correct or should 
both windings be in the same direction?

Thanks
Mike WA6ARA
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RE: [Elecraft] K1 (2040) speaker dead

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

My seven-year-old K2 has yet to experience a phones jack problem. That might
be just luck, but I have done something a little different that might help
as well. 

I use a lightweight pigtail with a plug in the K2 instead of hooking the
phones directly to the jack. I did that because my favorite phones had a
1/4" plug on the end, and I did not want to subject the jack to the stresses
involved in using an adapter stuck directly into the front panel. 

Looking at any in-line adapter, it's pretty obvious that any side force on
phones end of the adapter will be increased by 10-fold (or more) inside the
jack as the plug moves slightly in the sleeve. That means that an accidental
tug on the phones wire of only an ounce or two can translate into a pound or
more of force being shoved against the mechanism inside the jack as the plug
rocks within the limits allowed by the ground sleeve. It's not much better
if a miniature phone plug with an inch-long stiff finger grip is used. 

I used a miniature right-angle plug for the rig end so that if the line was
tugged, there'd be no mechanical leverage at work to increase the force on
the jack mechanism.

I don't know if that's why I still have not had to replace my phones jack
after 7 years of heavy use. Knowing how I can accidentally run out of phones
cable at times while I'm operating, it seemed a good idea to take the
precaution, Hi! 

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
Ruchan,

This is a known problem with both the K1 and K2.  The earphone jack goes
bad.  Must 
replace it.  Quite a chore.

Right now the jack on my K2 is open on the speaker side, just like your's.
I've already 
replaced the jack on my K1 and was hoping I wouldn't have to do this on the
K2, but alas, 
it is now also broken.

73 de dave
ab9ca


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[Elecraft] Build order

[Gary Hvizdak]

Paul wrote .
 
In what order should the options be installed and could some be combined 
(like the DSP and the K60XV) to minimize assembly and disassembly?



Hi Paul,

I invite you to check out our website http://www.unpcbs.com/ which 
describes a set of aftermarket K2 option bypass headers.  By using them now 
after you have completed phase III alignment, you can make all of the 
necessary mods for all of the options all at once.

Other than removing the front panel if necessary to change FP-P1 (the 
mic configuration header) you shouldn't have to disassemble your K2 again.  
You certainly won't need to do any K2 PCB soldering more than once.

BTW, if you install RF-R29, RF-D19, RF-20, and change RF-C71, be sure to

also change the setting of the "Extended VFO Range (D19)" secondary menu 
from "N" to "Y".

73,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067

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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[N2EY]

In a message dated 7/9/06 8:29:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Don't know whether this is apocryphal or not, but I had heard from a
> former USAF EW tech that the VC in Viet Nam in the early days figured out
> how to make U.S. field superhets' LO "howl" , giving away qth, causing some
> units to switch to TRF technology.
> 

Urban legend. Not true. There's no way to do what was claimed without access 
to the receiver itself.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] Field day rules

[N2EY]

In a message dated 7/9/06 5:02:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> >> >At least in the areas I've done FD (EPA, MDC, WNY, NNJ) , the extra 3 
>> hours at the end of FD have been deemed not worth starting setup >at 2 PM 
>> Saturday and losing the first hours of FD).
>> 
>> That seems to make my point.  The current rules do not sufficiently reward 
>> rapid setup.  
>>  
>> Suppose, for East Coast,  you were allowed to operate an extra 3 hours with 
>> QRP stations/positions (only) that did not begin setup until 1400 EDT 
>> Sunday,

??? FD is essentially over on 1400 EDT Sunday.

As the rules are now, if you set up in the 24 hours between 1400 EDT Friday 
and 1400 EDT Saturday, you lose the 3 hours between 1400 EDT Sunday and 1700 
EDT Sunday - which are usually the 3 least-productive hours in the FD period. 


73 de Jim, N2EY 
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Re: [Elecraft] ARCI Summer Sprint

[Stephen W. Kercel]

Jim:

The A index is currently 4 and the K index is 2. The flux is a bit 
low at 75, and Ham Radio Deluxe shows lots of current spots. Looks 
like the bands are alive and kicking.


I expect that a lot of contesters are like me, still  recovering from 
24 hours of IARU.


73,

Steve
AA4AK



At 05:08 PM 7/9/2006, James T. \"Jim\" Rogers, W4ATK wrote:
Are the bands that dead? I know I live in the land of NO 
rf, but this is

ridiculous. What time does the band show up so the crowds will come?

Jim

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The A  



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[Elecraft] ARCI Summer Sprint

[James T. "Jim" Rogers, W4ATK]

Are the bands that dead? I know I live in the land of NO rf, but this is
ridiculous. What time does the band show up so the crowds will come?

Jim

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 (2040) speaker dead

[dave]

Ruchan,

This is a known problem with both the K1 and K2.  The earphone jack goes bad.  Must 
replace it.  Quite a chore.


Right now the jack on my K2 is open on the speaker side, just like your's.  I've already 
replaced the jack on my K1 and was hoping I wouldn't have to do this on the K2, but alas, 
it is now also broken.


73 de dave
ab9ca




Ruchan Ozatay wrote:

Hi guys,

To day, first time I started to use my K1 (2040) with headphone (headphone for 
walkman) and it worked perfectly. After a while I disconnect headphone to use 
it with its own speaker but the speaker didn't work. I checked headphone again 
and again it was OK but when I disconnect it there was no voice heard from the 
speaker. Speaker was completely dead.

 

Can some one tell me what happened?  before I open the K1 for checking.  

 


Any answer and advice would be appreciated.

 


73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH
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[Elecraft] Field Day Rule change letter

[Karl Larsen]

   I sent this to the ARRL contest people who are on vacation now, 
yesterday. It is exactly this:



Dear Sir:

   My name is Karl Larsen and I want to change the rules for the Field
Day Contest. You have over the several years made it attractive to operate
QRP from batteries (7.2.1). My experience has been that CW QRP works just
great but SSB QRP is very difficult.

   Some friends in Albuquerque were 7A and QRP Battery and did this:

We had 5 stations on the air nearly all the time (digital,
phone, 20 cw, 40 cw, and 80/15 cw), plus another two that made brief
appearances and a 6-meter station that jumped in whenever the band
opened to anywhere. There were 8 operators, and no one got much sleep.

Ended up with a little over 16k points. Off the top of my head, here
are the round numbers:

Digital station: 100 QSOs, a mix of rtty and psk.
CW: 100 QSOs on 80,
  500 on 40 mtrs,
   600 on 20 mtrs,
 100 on 15 mtrs.
HF phone: 100 QSOs total. QRP phone with bad antennas is very rough.
VHF: 60 QSOs, all 6-mtr ssb.

All equipment was QRP (5 Watts or less: Three K2s, two K1s, QRP+,
IC703, FT817), battery operated. No generators, but lots of big

   As he says "QRP Phone with bad antennas is very rough. The poor
phone guys got just 100 contacts in 24 hours. They got 1200 contacts on CW.
This is data from 2006 Field Day.

   I have the current FD rules and direct your attention to 7.2.5 which
says this:

7.2.5. The power multiplier for an entry is determined by the
maximum output power used by any transmitter
used to complete any contact during the event. (Example: a group
has one QRP station running 3 Watts and a second station running 100 Watts,
the power multiplier of 2 applies to all contacts made by
the entire operation).

   I would like 7.2.5 to read:

   The power multiplier for an entry can be different depending on the
transmitter power. The QRP station(s) might have a power multiplier of 5 
while

SSB contacts have a multiplier of 2. The logs need to state the power level
used to make the contacts.

   In a large FD location this would be easy. The SSB HF and SSB VHF
would be at 100 Watts and will be added with a power multiplier of 2. 
The QRP

CW stations would be careful to mark their logs with power and multiplier of
5.

   This change will require a change in the Summary Sheet but it will
not be hard to do.


   For the past 4 years the CW people in my Ham Club have gone to the
mountains for cooler weather and good camping, while the SSB people stay in
town and work out of an air conditioned building. I want us all to go to the
mountains and the SSB people run 100 Watts so they can work lots of stations
and the CW people do their usual things.

   I think this change allowing multiple power levels in a group will
change how people do Field Day for the better.


73 Karl Larsen, K5DI

   I would like anyone of a like mind to send a similar message to them at:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

karl
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RE: [Elecraft] K1 (2040) speaker dead

[Vin Cortina]

Ruchan,

When you plug the headphones in the jack is designed to disconnect the
speaker, of course.  For some reason, when you removed the headphone plug,
the little contact which is supposed to snap back into contact to make the
speaker work again, is not doing so.  You may have used a plug which
possibly was not a standard size which deformed the inner workings of the
jack.

You will probably have to open it up.


Vin Cortina  KR2F

K1-4 s/n:1977
KX1  s/n:1476


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ruchan Ozatay
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 3:51 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 (2040) speaker dead


Hi guys,

To day, first time I started to use my K1 (2040) with headphone (headphone
for walkman) and it worked perfectly. After a while I disconnect headphone
to use it with its own speaker but the speaker didn't work. I checked
headphone again and again it was OK but when I disconnect it there was no
voice heard from the speaker. Speaker was completely dead.



Can some one tell me what happened?  before I open the K1 for checking.



Any answer and advice would be appreciated.



73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH
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RE: [Elecraft] Build order

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

Build and test the KSB2 and the K60XV first - after those are installed, you
can do a complete alignment and calibration of the K2 and that alignment and
calibration will not be changed by the addition of the KDSP2 or the KPA100.

Those options which affect the base K2 alignment in some way (large or
small) are the KSB2 (filter alignment), K160RX (VCO and bandpass alignment),
and the K60XV (VCO and bandpass alignment).  The other options may be
aligned independently and do not change the base K2 settings.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> I am well underway, RF board part 2 has been tested and works
> fine.  Lots of signals on 40 meter. I am mid way through part 3
> and have a question on the build order of the other options.  I
> will assemble and test the K2 completly before continuing by
> adding options.  I have the KSB2, K60XV, DSP and KPA100 to add.
> In what order should the options be installed and could some be
> combined ( like the DSPand the K60XV) to minimize assembly and
> disassembly.  Would you leave the KPA100 to last?
>
> My skill level is moderately advanced (electrons in my blood/EE)
> plus a fair set of test equipment.
>
> 73 de Paul W4MAY
> K2 s/n 5627
>

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[Elecraft] K1 (2040) speaker dead

[Ruchan Ozatay]

Hi guys,

To day, first time I started to use my K1 (2040) with headphone (headphone for 
walkman) and it worked perfectly. After a while I disconnect headphone to use 
it with its own speaker but the speaker didn't work. I checked headphone again 
and again it was OK but when I disconnect it there was no voice heard from the 
speaker. Speaker was completely dead.

 

Can some one tell me what happened?  before I open the K1 for checking.  

 

Any answer and advice would be appreciated.

 

73, Ruchan Ozatay, TA2AH
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[Elecraft] Build order

[Paul Mayo]

Hi All --

I am well underway, RF board part 2 has been tested and works fine.  Lots of 
signals on 40 meter. I am mid way through part 3 and have a question on the 
build order of the other options.  I will assemble and test the K2 completly 
before continuing by adding options.  I have the KSB2, K60XV, DSP and KPA100 to 
add. In what order should the options be installed and could some be combined ( 
like the DSPand the K60XV) to minimize assembly and disassembly.  Would you 
leave the KPA100 to last?

My skill level is moderately advanced (electrons in my blood/EE) plus a fair 
set of test equipment.

73 de Paul W4MAY
K2 s/n 5627
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[Elecraft] FS: K1 Station

[JT Croteau]

Selling my well loved K1 with a few accessories.

K1 #292 - 2 Band Model recently aligned for the following filter boards

40/80
20/15
17/30

It will also come with a fourth filter board for 20/40.

The K1 is in excellent working order and great physical shape.
Elecraft mods include all updates from Rev. D to Rev F. specs and the
backlight mod.

Original manual is included along with all documentation for the
installed modifications.

I will also include the following:

. Bulldog Mini-Paddles
. 2x9.6V 2000 mAH NiMH Packs w/ wallwart charger all wired to
powerpole connectors

Some photos:

K1 with mini-paddles:
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3682/k12nk.jpg

One of the two battery packs:
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/1212/battery7qb.jpg

Price: Dunno, heh.  I am currently entertaining offers.  Email direct
to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested.

I am selling to finance an ATS-3 and invest the remainder in another hobby.

- JT
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RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs

[peter gerba]

I had to use a reamer on several tight ones .. K2 2001 vintage.

pete kn6bi

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:41 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs


Several years ago this was a frequent issue with K2s. On some units the
knobs were a very tight fit. My SN 1289 built in 2000 was one of those. I
got the knobs on mine okay, but some people damaged their pots installing
the knobs. Others resorted to sanding or filing the shafts to fit.

I don't recall what the "fix" was, but the problem seemed to go away.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:32 AM
To: Arie Kleingeld PA3A; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs


Arie,

I have never seen this problem, but the setscrews may not have been
adequately loosened when the knob was put over the shaft initially.

The other potential thing could be a burr of some kind on the inside of the
knob.  Should you find one like that, I would suggest turning a twist drill
inside the hole in the knob before attempting to attach it to the pot shaft.

I do not know how to recover from your current situation without possibly
damaging the pot.  If I were doing it, I would order a new pot and after
that attempt to remove the knob in any way that works (including destroying
the old pot) - I might order a new knob too just in case I could get the old
one off without damage

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again. Ran
> into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.
>
> Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft
> and pushing it down gently (as in  the manual),  one the pots went
> through the 270 dgs-stop. It is still OK if I check it with a meter
> and the stops are still there. But the knob is not in the right
> postion yet. It's at the right height obove the frontpanel, but I have
> to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get it in the right position.
>
> I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could run
> the pot past the stop again.
> Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?
>
>

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__ NOD32 1.1651 (20060708) Information __

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RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Several years ago this was a frequent issue with K2s. On some units the
knobs were a very tight fit. My SN 1289 built in 2000 was one of those. I
got the knobs on mine okay, but some people damaged their pots installing
the knobs. Others resorted to sanding or filing the shafts to fit. 

I don't recall what the "fix" was, but the problem seemed to go away. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 11:32 AM
To: Arie Kleingeld PA3A; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs


Arie,

I have never seen this problem, but the setscrews may not have been
adequately loosened when the knob was put over the shaft initially.

The other potential thing could be a burr of some kind on the inside of the
knob.  Should you find one like that, I would suggest turning a twist drill
inside the hole in the knob before attempting to attach it to the pot shaft.

I do not know how to recover from your current situation without possibly
damaging the pot.  If I were doing it, I would order a new pot and after
that attempt to remove the knob in any way that works (including destroying
the old pot) - I might order a new knob too just in case I could get the old
one off without damage

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again. Ran 
> into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.
>
> Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft 
> and pushing it down gently (as in  the manual),  one the pots went 
> through the 270 dgs-stop. It is still OK if I check it with a meter 
> and the stops are still there. But the knob is not in the right 
> postion yet. It's at the right height obove the frontpanel, but I have 
> to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get it in the right position.
>
> I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could run 
> the pot past the stop again.
> Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

[BMW]

No, the battery subclass REQUIRES that all contacts be made on 5W or less.
This would be a class A operation with a power multuplier of 2.

This is part of the confusion. Power mults and power output requirements
should not be mixed. The battery class should be a separate class (as it
is), but allowing any amount of power (which it is not), and the multiplier
should then be applied afterward.

Brian

-Original Message-
From: Clark B. Wierda [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 12:26 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)


> How would that work?
>

>
> What multiplier should a 5 to 150 W "Battery" station get?

5 to 150 Battery would get a multiplier of 2, but would be noted as a
Battery subclass.

> 73 de Jim, N2EY
>

Clark B. Wierda
N8CBW



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RE: [Elecraft] Front panel knobs

[Don Wilhelm]

Arie,

I have never seen this problem, but the setscrews may not have been
adequately loosened when the knob was put over the shaft initially.

The other potential thing could be a burr of some kind on the inside of the
knob.  Should you find one like that, I would suggest turning a twist drill
inside the hole in the knob before attempting to attach it to the pot shaft.

I do not know how to recover from your current situation without possibly
damaging the pot.  If I were doing it, I would order a new pot and after
that attempt to remove the knob in any way that works (including destroying
the old pot) - I might order a new knob too just in case I could get the old
one off without damage

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again.
> Ran into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.
>
> Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft and
> pushing it down gently (as in  the manual),  one the pots went through the
> 270 dgs-stop.
> It is still OK if I check it with a meter and the stops are still there.
> But the knob is not in the right postion yet. It's at the right height
> obove the frontpanel, but I have to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get
> it in the right position.
>
> I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could
> run the pot
> past the stop again.
> Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The trick is often in cutting or drilling it cleanly and squarely without
melting or scratching it, and in polishing the edges. The nice thing about a
place like Tap Plastics is you take a template or dimensions to the store
and in a few minutes you walk out with nicely cut, polished and even drilled
materials ready to use! They'll even glue up assemblies requiring more than
one piece. 

It's a great service! I'd be very surprised it was only available on the
west coast of the USA. If so, I suspect it's a business someone could do
very well with in our do-it-yourself culture. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Screen (silk screen) printers and sign printers often have small pieces of 
plexi left over from jobs that they might be willing to sell at a modest
price.

Mike, KC2TP

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Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

[N2EY]

In a message dated 7/8/06 10:31:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> . So it splits our club. The 
> CW lovers go to their own FD and run QRP. The rest go to the Club FD and 
> work SSB. If we have diversity in power then the two groups can work 
> together.
> 

This is a key selling point to present to the contest folks at ARRL. Your 
club would better serve the purpose of FD if the group could be unified.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

[Clark B. Wierda]

> How would that work?
>

>
> What multiplier should a 5 to 150 W "Battery" station get?

5 to 150 Battery would get a multiplier of 2, but would be noted as a
Battery subclass.

> 73 de Jim, N2EY
>

Clark B. Wierda
N8CBW

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[Elecraft] Front panel knobs

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

After a few hours of IARU cw contesting picked up the #3612 again.
Ran into a problem with the knobs over the pots on the front panel.

Setting the pots fully clockwise and turning the knob over the shaft and
pushing it down gently (as in  the manual),  one the pots went through the
270 dgs-stop.
It is still OK if I check it with a meter and the stops are still there.
But the knob is not in the right postion yet. It's at the right height
obove the frontpanel, but I have to turn the knob a mere 30 degrees to get
it in the right position.

I hesitate to use more force to turn the knob because this could run the pot
past the stop again.
Anyone encountered this? What was the solution?


73
Arie PA3A

PS : Thanks for the suggestions on the backlight of the display yesterday.
Gave good confidence when placing and soldering that component.
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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[MikeDoolin]

Screen (silk screen) printers and sign printers often have small pieces of 
plexi left over from jobs that they might be willing to sell at a modest price.

Mike, KC2TP
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[Elecraft] FS: Complete QRP kit with Elecraft T1

[JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD]

Hi,

I have a complete QRP kit that includes an Elecraft T1 to sell on eBay.

Take a look at...

www.ebay.com

Type item number in the search box: 35739039

Happy bidding !!!

J-F / VA2VYZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Field day rules

[N2EY]

In a message dated 7/9/06 10:00:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> Given that one purpose of FD is to promote rapid response to
> need for emergency comms, let the QRP-battery position(s) operate the full
> contest period, starting setup with East Coast and finishing with West
> Coast.  

What do you mean by "the full contest period"?

FD starts at 2 PM EDST Saturday here on the East Coast.

If you don't start setup until then, you can operate until 5 PM EDST Sunday - 
27 consecuttive hours maximum. 

If you setup ahead of 2 PM EDST Saturday, you can only operate 24 consecutive 
hours maximum. 

No setup activities can occur before 2 PM EDST Friday. (In the old days, 
there were some groups who would set up days and even weeks before FD. In some 
cases there were semi-permanent FD facilities that were left up year 'round.) 

At least in the areas I've done FD (EPA, MDC, WNY, NNJ) , the extra 3 hours 
at the end of FD have been deemed not worth starting setup at 2 PM Saturday and 
losing the first hours of FD).

73 de Jim, N2EY. 
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RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Hisashi T Fujinaka]

On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


I gave John a bum steer I guess. Tap Plastics appears to be a west-coast
company. They have a web site at:
http://www.tapplastics.com/

They've been an invaluable resource for me for a variety of things, radio
and non-radio related. Maybe someone knows of similar companies serving
other areas of the country.


Small hobby stores might have odd things like that. If you can imagine
needing it for an RC car or airplane, they would have it.

--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I gave John a bum steer I guess. Tap Plastics appears to be a west-coast
company. They have a web site at:
http://www.tapplastics.com/

They've been an invaluable resource for me for a variety of things, radio
and non-radio related. Maybe someone knows of similar companies serving
other areas of the country. 

Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Ten Tec 1210

[Steve Kavanagh]

I just purchased a used 1210 yesterday with the idea
to use it with my K2...I haven't tried it yet.  Lee, I
should have it on the air for initial tests within a
few days and can report.

But I am confused about noise figure specs.  The
manual (copyright 1997) I received with it specifies a
2 dB noise figure.  However, the QST review (from
2002) says the noise figure is unspecified and
measured it at 7 or 8 dB.  Does anyone know if there
was a noise-figure related design change or if not
what the real story is ?

I am considering mods to make it emulate an FT-290R in
low power mode (about 100 mW out and a DC voltage in
TX on the antenna jack) for use with my microwave
transverters.  Has anyone tried that with a K2 ?  Has
anyone made any observations about the lowest IF power
on SSB that will comfortably operate the RF sensing ? 
Or worked out a hard-keyed PTT arrangement for the
K2/1210 combination ?

73,
Steve VE3SMA

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RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Don, W3FPR wrote:

Look in your phone book yellow pages for a local commercial plastics
supplier.  They often have cut-offs for sale at modest prices.  If you have
to buy a whole sheet, take along a wheelbarrow full of money.

--

You might do well if there's a "Tap Plastics" dealer nearby. They are all
over the USA, I believe, and custom cut acrylic sheet for individuals at a
very reasonable price. 

If a K2 will operate with the sides and top off, I can't see how it'd be any
worse with clear top and sides. Just don't replace the heat sink on the
bottom of the K2 (or on top of the KPA100) with plastic! 

That said, sure it'll be somewhat more susceptible to RFI and perhaps even
produce a little RFI without the metal case, perhaps. And even if it does it
may not be significant in your situation.

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] IARU HF Contest

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

If there is no better scoring candidate this year and if I have not
miscalculated somewhere, I think I will be getting the second best all time
high score in single op. phone only QRP category.

My calculated score is roughly about half of the all time best.

My short comings were:
- 45m of RG58 going to my antenna. Next year I will definitely change it to
a RG213.
- Simple 4-band inverted vee dipole antenna. Especially at 80m it has got a
very high take off angle which prohibits me from reaching longer distances.
- Slightly unfavorable weather conditions (read that as static noise)
although it was quite good for most part part of the contest.
- Possibly a slightly misaligned (I hope this is the correct term) K2. The
maximum output powers of my K2 according to the test lab of the Turkish
Telecommunications Authority are:

2.10 W at 1.8 MHz
-- W at 3.5 MHz (they somehow could not measure. I do not know why.)
8W at 7 MHz
11 W at 10 MHz
13.8 W at 14 MHz
-- W at 18 MHz  (they somehow could not measure. I do not know why.)
9.6 W at 21 MHz
7.5W at 24 MHz
6.06 W at 28 MHz

I suspect the output power might be a little low at 80m, too. However, I am
not sure if it is above or below 5 watts. (I am not the builder, BTW. But
the K2 works FB otherwise.)

My advantages were:
- A well matched inverted vee (I spent two weeks at the roof to get the SWR
down to below 1.2 >;-) ) (Unfortunately 2.2 at 21 MHz but it seems to have
worked OK as far as the contest went.)
- No XYL this year >;-)
- And of course a K2

Many thanks to the designers and producers of this marvellous rig. I am
proud to be the owner of one.

73!
de TA2RX

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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[Elecraft] K3 in the wings? on the horizon?

[Fred (FL)]

We recently successfully built K2 # 5422 - which was
a very rewarding, successful, and fun build.  At the
onset - I wasn't sure I still had the patience to
do it - but it turned out, one couldn't turn off the
solder station!  Way into the night ..

I just sold K2 # 5422 to a IL ham, and I'm sure
he will enjoy it.

Question:  Are there any indications, whatsoever,
that Elecraft is considering a K3?  One would think
somewhere someone is protyping at least, such
a rig.  Its almost a natural evolution - what with
technology and ham systems marching on.

I wonder if they even have a "K3" in their
future products list?For sure, at this
point and for the past couple years - Elecraft
has kept such activity a dark secret.

I'd hate to think in the remainer of 2006, should
I pick up a IC-7000 or 706MKIIG - only to find
a K3 is finally orderable.  What a bummer that
would be!

Thanks to all for a great build.  Thanks for all
the help, suggestions, better ideas, and completion
help along the way.  It was quite a journey.  Wouldn't
have been so - with the Elecraft owner-experts!

Fred, 73's
N3CSY

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RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Rick Commo]

Don raises a very good technique that use frequently.  In fact yesterday I 
stopped by the place and
pick up a piece of 5/16 that was roughly 14 x 6 inches for the whole wallet 
breaking sum of
something around $1.00.  I was charged by weight, although sometimes they 
charge by area as well.

For something like the sides of the K2, using 1/8" should be OK.  If you 
couldn't find something in
the scrap bin and pick it up for a couple of dollars I'd be amazed.

Cheers,
-rick, K7LOG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don
Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 6:40 AM
To: Elecraft reflector; n4dsp
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

John,

Look in your phone book yellow pages for a local commercial plastics
supplier.  They often have cut-offs for sale at modest prices.  If you have
to buy a whole sheet, take along a wheelbarrow full of money.

73,
Don W3FPR
.
.
.

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[Elecraft] plexiglass

[J F]

Didn't the allies look into building aircraft carriers
from ice? if you had impregnated the ice with say fine
copper mess, would it not also be somewhat of an RF
sheild... or maybe just a good ground plane for the
minature 160M vertical ummm I've said too much
already  ;o)

73,
Julius
n2wn

Some nice QRP signals on 40M SSB during IARU


"Jones was such an accomplished master of the art of
spoof that he soon convinced the staffer that the
admiralty was trying to build an invisible battleship,
but had only been able to produce enough of the metal
to build an invisible topedo boat, which was still
troubled by the fact that the wake was visible, as was
the crew."
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[Elecraft] Field day rules

[Bill Cunningham K4KSR]

There is another possible change that would place emphasis on QRP-battery
operation.  Given that one purpose of FD is to promote rapid response to
need for emergency comms, let the QRP-battery position(s) operate the full
contest period, starting setup with East Coast and finishing with West
Coast.  This would greatly reduce the higher power QRM at beginning and end
of the operating period.  It would also place great emphasis on getting an
emergency station on the air pronto, then upgrading to higher power as
circumstances permit. Makes a huge case for K2-100 serving as highly
responsive QRP rig with instant power increase when the generator and fuel
supply arrives.  Much closer to  real world scenario and better than waiting
for the higher power.

73,
Bill Cunningham, K4KSR

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RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Look in your phone book yellow pages for a local commercial plastics
supplier.  They often have cut-offs for sale at modest prices.  If you have
to buy a whole sheet, take along a wheelbarrow full of money.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I apologize to everyone how this thread has drifted.
> I only asked if anyone has knowledge of where to
> obtain plexiglass for my K2. Appreciate if we can
> stay on topic. We are now into German Warfare and
> has nothing to do with plexiglass. Please Gentlemen.
> 73
> john-n4dsp
>

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[Elecraft] Re pexiglass

[Fred Jensen]

Gil Stacy wrote:

> Don't know whether this is apocryphal or not,

It is

> but I had heard from a former USAF EW tech that the VC in Viet Nam in

> he early days figured out how to make U.S. field superhets' LO "howl,"
> giving away qth, causing some units to switch to TRF technology.

but I haven't heard that urban legend in a long long time.  The 
morphability of these threads under free association is truly amazing.


Connection to Elecraft:  Elecraft radios do not use TRF technology.

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
3y 9m 21d in the two Vietnams and Laos (but who would count?)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Ten Tec 1210

[johnny]

Hi Lee,

Ten Tec 1210 is ok but you will note some frequency drift over the time. 
Therefore, it is all acceptable for FM but you have to be a bit patient in 
SSB.


73

Johnny Siu VR2Xmc

- Original Message - 
From: "Lee Buller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 7:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 and Ten Tec 1210


I am looking at a low cost solution to get on two meters CW/SSB.  Has 
anyone married the K2 and the Ten Tec 1210 together?  How does it work? 
Also, what are your thoughts about the 1210?  For 149 bucks, it seems to be 
somewhat of a bargain


 Lee - K0WA

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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[n4dsp]

I apologize to everyone how this thread has drifted.
I only asked if anyone has knowledge of where to 
obtain plexiglass for my K2. Appreciate if we can

stay on topic. We are now into German Warfare and
has nothing to do with plexiglass. Please Gentlemen.
73
john-n4dsp
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RE: [Elecraft] #5390 Completed - Novice's Reflections on Building a K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Wyn,

Congratulations on your accomplishments and thanks for the description of
your efforts.
Enjoy your K2 whether /P as originally intended, or for your home station
QSOs as well.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Wyn Hughes
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 1:18 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] #5390 Completed - Novice's Reflections on Building a
> K2
>
>
> For any novices like myself:
>
> Completed K2 #5390 today. Basic 10 - 80 m cw model. No options
> (yet). Everything tested basically ok. Log records;
>
> Early February 2006: bought in preference to a Tentec Argo V
> (high current draw on the Argo, not suitable for light /P,
> clinched it for the K2)
>
> Feb - April 2006: slow, rather nervous and self questioning lead
> up to the actual build. Read the manual and did basic inventory
> of parts. Built the Ngen for soldering practice. Bought a decent
> temp controlled soldering station and desoldering gun (China
> made). Bought Kester 44 solder from Mouser. Lots of research on
> internet and ARRL handbook re soldering, and components last iron
> I used was a 100 watt for PL259 plugs and amp building. Practice
> soldering and desoldering for small solid state parts. . Sorted
> components into large number of plastic boxes with compartments
> for like types. This made the job seem less daunting from a
> psychological viewpoint.
>
> April 30, 2006 - started on the Control Board build then Front
> Board. Took 5 days solid work, over a couple of weeks, time
> permitting. All tested ok.
> (Soldering the ICs not as hard as it sounded. However, required a
> high magnification illuminated desk lamp, plus a new pair of
> reading spectacles. Only had to use the desoldering gun a couple
> of times, but it was worth the money). Experienced quite a lot of
> backacke, prefer to solder 'up close and personal' with the
> magnifier, easier to detect/avoid solder errors.
>
> However much care you think you take, errors will occur. Good
> organization and method helps and for a novice like me, was
> essential. Finished the RF Board 40 meter rx about a week ago.
> Surprised that it worked first time. (I could not hear the
> 'birdie' on 7000 khz until the BFO had been set as per the
> manual. Don't automatically assume there is an error immediately.
> Check and double check. If tired, put the kit away until next time).
>
> July 9, 2006: Completed. Tested basically ok. Very responsive on
> receive. I even listened to the BBC on 21660 relay from Singapore
> with a 5 ft wire antenna on the floor. Saved me turning on the IC-781.
>
> Total number of days worked on: 20 days (including the 5 days to
> finish the Control/Front boards). Some days were short (an hour),
> many like yesterday were long and arduous.
>
> Time taken to build? Not sure, would guess minimum 60 hours,
> probably closer to 80 hours.
>
> Issues? Power output on 28 mhz was a little low on the internal
> K2 meter yesterday, about 8-9 watts. The internal meter was
> reading up to 15 watts out on all other bands. Expert K2 buildern
> locally suggested rewiding T2 - too tired to do that now.
> 'Prodded' T2 a few times (tried to tidy it up/elevate it a bit
> more off the board). Hooked up the Bird 43 today with a 50 watt
> slug. Noted that power readinggs on all bands today were a little
> lower, according to the K2 internal meter. However, on the Bird
> 43, there is 9 watts out indicated on 28 mhz and up to12 - 13
> watts out on other bands, depending on the band. Probably not too
> much wrong, but may rewind T2 and maybe T3 for experiment in due course.
>
> Also managed to scuff off the paint very slightly about 1.5mm x
> 1.5mm on the front panel cover at the curve on the top, despite
> thinking I was lsietening to the advive in the manual to watch
> out for that. Will get some touch up paint from Elecraft.
>
> Was it worth it? Time will tell. I don't think anyone would want
> to build the K2 as a commercial venture, only for the pleasure of
> doing so. I will try some /P, which is what I kot the K2 for, in
> the next couple of weeks. Quite an experience building the K2,
> still have some backache. Overall, a positive experience. I
> suspect the K2 project may also serve a slightly different
> purpose from that which it was acquired for. Instead of just
> using it as a utilitarian /P radio, it will serve as a
> self-educational radio. I always wondered what transistors and
> ICs actually did, now I have a slightly better idea.
>
> Cheers and 73 from Hong Kong,
>
> Wyn, VR2AX (ex VS6UK), GW3YGH
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>
> --
> No virus found in 

Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[Gil Stacy]

"But the German radar detector receivers used supperregenerative
detectors,which radiate a weak signal."

Don't know whether this is apocryphal or not, but I had heard from a
former USAF EW tech that the VC in Viet Nam in the early days figured out
how to make U.S. field superhets' LO "howl" , giving away qth, causing some
units to switch to TRF technology.

Gil NN4CW
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Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

[N2EY]

In a message dated 7/8/06 9:54:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> .  I additionally
> commented that I would like to see Battery allow all battery efforts at
> any power level using the exiting power level bonus structure.  

How would that work?

As it stands now, 151 to 1500 watts gets a power multiplier of 1
0 to 150 watts gets a power multiplier of 2
0 to 5 watts *and* a power source other than commercial mains or generator 
gets you power multiplier of 5

What multiplier should a 5 to 150 W "Battery" station get?

73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] plexiglass

[N2EY]

In a message dated 7/8/06 10:33:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> Hence Germany had to bring a device nearly to the point of fool-proof
> perfection before releasing it for use, whereas the British could put
> systems barely past the prototype stage into operations, knowing they had
> enough "tinkerers" who could make it work.
> 

And even that didn't always work.

Once the Allies developed and deployed radar sets that could be carried by 
long-distance antisubmarine aircraft, U-boat losses rose dramatically. The 
response was to develop radar detectors - receivers that could hear the Allied 
radar transmitters, warning the U-boat crews to dive before the Allied aircraft 
could find them.

But the German radar detector receivers used supperregenerative detectors, 
which radiate a weak signal. The Allies soon learned they could detect these 
weak signals. They began to turn off their radar transmitters and listen for 
the 
tell tale noise of the radar detectors. Rather than helping evade, the radar 
detectors began leading the Allies to the U-boats.

Of course an amateur would have known that superregens radiate

Elecraft connection: None of the Elecraft rigs uses a superregenerative 
detector.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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[Elecraft] K2 and Ten Tec 1210

[Lee Buller]

I am looking at a low cost solution to get on two meters CW/SSB.  Has anyone 
married the K2 and the Ten Tec 1210 together?  How does it work?  Also, what 
are your thoughts about the 1210?  For 149 bucks, it seems to be somewhat of a 
bargain
   
  Lee - K0WA
   


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some and use it.  If you can't find any common 
sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense.
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Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

[Karl Larsen]

Dave wrote:

You could have a scoring system based on power levels. The RSGB low
power contest has a power level related scoring system that works well. See:
  
   Field Day does have a scoring system based on power levels. The 
change desired is to allow different power levels to exist at a site and 
score them not all at the highest power, but rather at the actual power 
they are using.


73 Karl


http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/rules/rqrp.shtml

73 Dave, G4AON


  


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[Elecraft] FS 4 Band K1 and

[Curron HILL]

K1 in great condition with 40, 30, 20, 15 plus a 2 band module with 40 and 20 
on it.  I have the parts I will send with it to change one of the bands on the 
2 band to 80 meters, I just have not had the time to make the change.  The k1 
has the backlight, tuner and NB.
I also have an un built 35 watt HF amp kit (not a elecraft but a nice kit) I 
will include in the deal.  $500 for all of it.

73 Don KB3DRW
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Re: [Elecraft] FD Battery rules (was QRP Power Level?)

[Dave]

You could have a scoring system based on power levels. The RSGB low
power contest has a power level related scoring system that works well. See:

http://www.contesting.co.uk/hfcc/rules/rqrp.shtml

73 Dave, G4AON
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