[Elecraft] RE: [unpcbs] Next Generation Un-Module PCB Half Price Pre-Production Sale

2006-07-16 Thread Gary Hvizdak
On Monday 17 July 2006 at 0118 Jim (AL7FS) wrote ...

What is the advantage of the G Rev over the D Rev?  Asked another way, what
is the difference between the D and G?  There had to be a reason for the
redesign.

I have D Rev and have not yet installed it.  I would like to know if there
is any advantage to paying the $9.00 for the G Rev.

___

Hi Jim,

If you have a fully loaded K2 and only purchased our headers in case you
ever needed to remove an option, then there's no need to upgraded.  On the
other hand, if you have a bare K2 and plan to make it "Plug & Play Ready",
then rev. G is something to consider since the headers will be installed
permanently.

--- - - - ---

This redesign was initially undertaken to address "RF concerns" which
recently kept one new K2 builder (a retired RF Engineer) from using our
"Plug & Play Ready" assembly approach.  In addressing this issue we added
ground planes, re-routed the trace that replaces RF-W1, and shortened the
signal paths on the UN-KNB2.

We don't have the instruments necessary to determine whether there's a
measurable improvement between rev. D and rev. G.  If there were, it would
likely only affect the two headers at the back of the RF board since they
carry the un-amplified received signal.

There is also a mechanical improvement in rev. G with the addition of an
UN-KNB2 mounting hole.  This might be an advantage if you operate
portable/mobile.

--- - - - --- 

There are some subtle changes that only affect assembly.  Rev. G has
fewer break-away tabs, a bottom silkscreen, and a built-in SIP connector
separation aid.

For our European customers, the rev. G UN-K60XV has a center ground pad
for the Murata ceramic filter 40m narrow BPF mod.

Lastly, there are a few things that we just wanted to improve upon in
rev. D.  All of the text is now right-side up, and the UN-K60XV no longer
blocks the RF-L4 (80m BPF) adjustment slug.

73,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067

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[Elecraft] RE: What is involved to upgrade? Just order the new Rev. G PCB blanks?

2006-07-16 Thread Gary Hvizdak
On Sunday 16 July 2006 at 2320 Ed (W0YK) wrote ...

Gary, what is involved to upgrade?  Just order the new Rev. G PCB blanks?
 
Thanks,
Ed - W0YK


Hi Ed,

Nice to hear from you.  I recall that you were one of our earliest “Plug
& Play Ready” builders.  No doubt then, you have already built up your
headers and are using them.  In this case, you ought to get all of the parts
to populate the rev. G board.  This would be our “rev. G Basic Header Kit”.

However, if you have a well stocked junk box and already have all of the
required parts, then you might be able to get by with just the bare board.
This would be our “rev. G Bare Boards Only”.

Something else to consider is whether you purchased our printed User’s
Guide with your first order.  If you did then you already have the neat
color center-fold K2 un-module diagram.  (It's far nicer when professionally
printed, versus what an Ink-Jet printer can do.)  If you didn’t get it the
first time, then you might want to consider getting the printed manual as
well.  This would be our “rev. G Deluxe Header Kit”.

I hope this answers your question.  Again, very nice to hear from you.

73,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067

P.S.  The rev. G CAD images on our www.unpcbs.com/ website are now slightly
out of date.  A few days ago I changed our UN-K60XV making it more like the
actual K60XV.  These changes entailed swapping the copper layers so the
ground-plane is on top, and the 4.7 pF cap is on the bottom.  This subtle
change makes the UN-K60XV’s top silkscreen far less cluttered.  Updated CAD
images should be online within a few days.  (I create these images manually,
so they take a while to produce.)  The next ones will have about 50% higher
resolution.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: Positive or Negative CW Keying? Again

2006-07-16 Thread Jack Brindle

Bernie;

Winkey works just fine with the K2. Just hook it up. You should  
follow the connection diagram shown in the K2 manual, either  
connecting tip and the small ring together or using two 1N4148 diodes  
on each side to make sure the two circuits get shorted to ground at  
the same time. This eliminates the need to change the key menu  
setting when going to "hand key" mode, which Winkey needs.


On Jul 16, 2006, at 7:40 PM, Bernard Gaffney wrote:


Ignore last message -- an oops. Hit wrong key and sent
it before I meant to. SORRY!

Does the K2 use Positive or Negative keying voltage
when keying CW via external keyer? Just curious, as
the WinKey Keyer (non-HV USB version) is only capable
of keying positive voltages up to 50VDC, and is not
compatible with XMTR's that use negative keying
voltages.

  TIA

   72 de N8PVZ
 ---bernie



-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


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RE: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today

2006-07-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Phil, K2ASP wrote:

I was one of the engineers there (Customs House in San Francisco) who gave
the code tests, and
  in fact from 1968 through 1974 my office was the room in which
  the code table with the funky Trimm headsets of the type that I
  would love to have today to  go with my refurbished J-38 key
  was located.

-

You may well have given me my Extra test there in the 70's. I darn near
ripped that key off the desk hammering out the 20 wpm! 

I neglected to renew my Commercial Radiotelegraph license in time and had to
re-sit that test too, but that was in the early 90's over in Oakland. I
understand it was the last, or nearly the last, exam conducted by the FCC
before they turned them over to subcontractor testing agencies. Dave Doone
of the SF FCC office gave my sending test that time. 

CONGRATULATIONS to Bernie!!!

Well done! 

Test were ALWAYS harder back when us OT's took 'em, and the snow was deeper
and rain harder. 

Some day you can grumble about how easy it is for the kids of 2040 to pass
their exams...

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Positive or Negative CW Keying? Again

2006-07-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It's +5.6 VDC open circuit to ground and the keying circuit needs to sink
less than 1 mA to key the transmitter. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Does the K2 use Positive or Negative keying voltage
when keying CW via external keyer? Just curious, as
the WinKey Keyer (non-HV USB version) is only capable
of keying positive voltages up to 50VDC, and is not
compatible with XMTR's that use negative keying
voltages.

  TIA
 
   72 de N8PVZ
 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Report for July 16th & 17th, 2006

2006-07-16 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening Folks,
   The bands were a bit stingy this evening but that is how it goes  
sometimes.  Unlike last week or the week before I did not hear Europe  
before the first net.  My DX for the evening is Georgia :)  That's OK, we  
had a good time.
   The weather here is warm but not like the reports I got from out East.   
There was more than one triple digit temperature report.  Yesterday I  
spent walking around in the sun in mid 80 temperatures but we had a wind  
with low (40%) humidity levels.  That made it comfortable.  I spent the  
day drinking from my two liter bottles.  The medical tents we visited  
refilled them as did our ARES tent supervisor.  I've no idea how much  
water I consumed but it seemed to be enough because today I do not feel  
dehydrated; just stiff from walking and standing for so long.
   Tomorrow it is back to work for most of us.  I'll be in downtown  
Portland where it gets much warmer than it does here.  But, compared to  
you all, I feel lucky.  With the mild temperatures and medium humidity  
summer is not so bad in Western Oregon.  The reports from AB, OK, IN, and  
GA were not as nice.  Only Rick in Palmer, Alaska had us all beat.  Sounds  
very comfortable up there.  However, I expect he has far more biting  
insects than me ;)  That is one thing I do not miss from the Midwest.  You  
can sit on your porch here and not be eaten alive.


The lists =>

On 14050.50 kHz at 2257z:
AL7N - Ed - AK
KL7CW - Rick AK - KX1 - 798  QNI #50!!!
VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384   QNI #15!!
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
W6BK - Dave - CA - K2 - 4910
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
W0SZ - Steve - CO - K2 - 4088

On 7046 kHz at 0156Z:
K6BBQ - Rem - CA
VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866QNI #15!!
W6BK - Dave - CA - K2 - 4910 QNI #5!
KL7V/5 - Sam - OK - K2 - 3158

   I think I have the above information correct but if not please email  
me.  Thank you once again for your support.  We will make it through the  
solar minimum and back to better propagation.  It will not be long until  
the bands are filled again.
   I was promoting amateur radio while at the air show yesterday.  It was  
surprising how many amateurs were listening to our health and welfare net  
while they were working in their booths making a little money.  While my  
partner and I were scanning the crowd looking for children who looked lost  
a couple vendors walked up and introduced themselves.  First by callsign  
and then by name.  Not one of them broke our nets but they were monitoring  
our progress.  The first lost child was around 1 PM.  We had both parents  
to him in less than five minutes.  The police and fire officials  
appreciated our eyes, ears, and comm skills very much.  It makes my tired  
feet feel a bit better just knowing I could help.


Until next week stay cool if you can,
   73,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)
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[Elecraft] K2: Positive or Negative CW Keying? Again

2006-07-16 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Ignore last message -- an oops. Hit wrong key and sent
it before I meant to. SORRY!

Does the K2 use Positive or Negative keying voltage
when keying CW via external keyer? Just curious, as
the WinKey Keyer (non-HV USB version) is only capable
of keying positive voltages up to 50VDC, and is not
compatible with XMTR's that use negative keying
voltages.

  TIA
 
   72 de N8PVZ
 ---bernie
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today

2006-07-16 Thread Phil Kane
On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 18:06:29 -0700, RG wrote:

> I remember sitting in the Customs House in San Francisco
>taking my tests, and one guy got caught using a calculator and was
>tossed out...The thing was, they were thinking people were loading the
>formulas into their calculators thus cheating...plus you were supposed
>to do the math all yourself.

  It wasn't so much the formulas, some "crooks" were loading in
  the answers in the era of Dick Bash and the stolen Q&As.  That
  eventually led to the public question pools.   Eventually
  calculators were allowed if they were of the type that had no
  memory if they were turned off and on in the examiner's
  presence.

  I was one of the engineers there who gave the code tests, and
  in fact from 1968 through 1974 my office was the room in which
  the code table with the funky Trimm headsets of the type that I
  would love to have today to  go with my refurbished J-38 key
  was located.

  I took my Novice and Tech in the NY office in 1952, and then
  after college and grad school took the General (13 wpm code
  test was all I had to take) in the NY office in 1962. I took
  the Advanced written in 1968 in the San Francisco office just
  after it was restored to the "menu", and the Extra 20 wpm
  code and the written there in 1974. By that time I was a
  supervisor in that office so they had to get another supervisor
  to give me the test. After making  sure that I did copy enough
  at 20 wpm to qualify, he started cranking up the speed on the
  machine behind my back, and lost me somewhere about 25!!

  I never did become a VE after I retired 11 years ago -- I've
  given enough tests in my lifetime!!!

  Congrats to all who take and pass the tests now and in the
  future!

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   5402

   From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
   Beaverton (Washington County)  Oregon



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[Elecraft] K2: Positive or Negative CW Keying?

2006-07-16 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Hi, 

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[Elecraft] K2: Positive or Negative CW Keying?

2006-07-16 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Hi, 

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Re: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today

2006-07-16 Thread Jeff Stai
At 05:49 PM 7/16/2006, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Hats off to you guys that passed the Extra Class ticket back in the days 
>when you had to copy & send 20 wpm CW, too
>
>Now to get back to work on K2 & upgrade it from an "A" to a "B."
>
>73,
>Lynn - K5AVJ

hi Lynn - you have actually joined a very rare club indeed: The "Advanced Plus" 
Club!

welcome and congrats!-) - jeff wk6i (ex-kq6vq advanced)


--
Jeff Stai   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Twisted Oak Winery  http://www.twistedoak.com/
Winery Blog http://www.elbloggotorcido.com/
Rocketry Org. of CA http://www.rocstock.org/
LDRS 26 http://www.ldrs26.org/
Amateur Radio   WK6I ~ Calaveras County, CA
See you in the California QSO Party! ~ Oct 7-8 2006 ~ http://www.cqp.org/


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[Elecraft] FW: All Rework Eliminator(TM) PCB Customers

2006-07-16 Thread Gary Hvizdak
Charlie, W0YG wrote ...

Gary:

I don't understand [..]  You say 50% off sale but the prices look like about

what I paid [..] earlier [..]  What am I missing?


Hi Charlie,

... Our sale is just on the PCB which used to sell for $7.95.  We have 
lowered its price to $3.95 and have reduced the prices of all of our other 
products that contain the board by $4.00.

It was my intention that this would be clear through the use of the bold

green font on our "News" page.  Since it wasn't clear, I'll have another 
look at our website.

73,
Gary, KI4GGX

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Re: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today

2006-07-16 Thread RG

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I took the Amateur Extra Class license test today in San Angelo, TX.  This 
has been one of my New's Year's Resolution over the past couple of years. 
When we left on vacation this year for the mountatins of New Mexico, I 
took a copy of the question pool & spent some time studying.  I wasn't 
ready but I had already registered & paid my money so I decided to drive 
down to San Angelo & take the test for the "practice."  Well, I passed 
with an 84 & I'm thrilled & this will upgrade me from Advanced to Amateur 
Extra. (Now I need to qualify on W1AW for 20 wpm CW copy)


At 58, I decided to go ahead & do this 'cuz I know my brain is not getting 
any betterso no time like the present.


During my prep, I took the 800+ questions & went through them 
"highlighting" the correct answers in "yellow."  Then I went back worked 
on the mathematical questons placing the formula on the Q&A Pool printout.


We got back from vacation before I had time to go through & review all of 
the questions again.  This morning, I drove down to San Angelo early & 
spent about an hour & half reviewing some of the mathematical solutions 
again. 

The test had 50 questions, and I was finished in about an hour. 


===a little history==
I passed my Novice in 1960 at the age of 12 under the elmership of K5QWT & 
K5SBU
I passed my General on my 13th birthday, Sept. 9 1960.  Back then we 
memorized schematics!

I passed my Advanced ticket in the late 1970's.


Hats off to you guys that passed the Extra Class ticket back in the days 
when you had to copy & send 20 wpm CW, too


Now to get back to work on K2 & upgrade it from an "A" to a "B."

73,
Lynn - K5AVJ

PS.  All I used was the ARRL Amateur Extra Class License Manual & an extra 
copy of the Q&A pool.  Additional help is available from various websites. 
Go for it!

http://www.remote.arrl.org/arrlvec/pools.html
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Good for you.  I know the feeling.  I passed my Extra one year ago, a 
month before my son got his Technician License.  Having no license, I 
got the Advanced License in 1978, passing all elements, including the 
13WPM,  in one sitting.   I always did want that Extra, but never got 
around to it until I made up my mind to get it no matter how long it 
took. It was easier one  year ago than it was twenty five years 
ago...Back then you had to do square roots by hand...no calculators 
allowed.  I remember sitting in the Customs House in San Francisco 
taking my tests, and one guy got caught using a calculator and was 
tossed out...The thing was, they were thinking people were loading the 
formulas into their calculators thus cheating...plus you were supposed 
to do the math all yourself..I am sure there are those guys here who 
took the tests when you had to draw your own circuits...I think I miss 
the days when it was harder.But on the other hand, my son is KG6ZUB, 
and I am pleased...


Ron KB6GK
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Re: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today

2006-07-16 Thread Vin Cortina

Congratulations Lynn!!!

Good for you, we look forward to seeing you in the "Extra subband".  Of 
course now we'll have to teach you the secret handshake...  :)
I was one of the last "20 WPM extras", but hey, if you want to learn it, you 
will.


See you on the bands.

Vin  KR2F
k1-4  s/n:1977
KX1  s/n:1476 (under construction)


- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 8:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today


I took the Amateur Extra Class license test today ... 


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[Elecraft] Passed Amateur Extra Class License Today

2006-07-16 Thread lbailey
I took the Amateur Extra Class license test today in San Angelo, TX.  This 
has been one of my New's Year's Resolution over the past couple of years. 
When we left on vacation this year for the mountatins of New Mexico, I 
took a copy of the question pool & spent some time studying.  I wasn't 
ready but I had already registered & paid my money so I decided to drive 
down to San Angelo & take the test for the "practice."  Well, I passed 
with an 84 & I'm thrilled & this will upgrade me from Advanced to Amateur 
Extra. (Now I need to qualify on W1AW for 20 wpm CW copy)

At 58, I decided to go ahead & do this 'cuz I know my brain is not getting 
any betterso no time like the present.

During my prep, I took the 800+ questions & went through them 
"highlighting" the correct answers in "yellow."  Then I went back worked 
on the mathematical questons placing the formula on the Q&A Pool printout.

We got back from vacation before I had time to go through & review all of 
the questions again.  This morning, I drove down to San Angelo early & 
spent about an hour & half reviewing some of the mathematical solutions 
again. 

The test had 50 questions, and I was finished in about an hour. 

===a little history==
I passed my Novice in 1960 at the age of 12 under the elmership of K5QWT & 
K5SBU
I passed my General on my 13th birthday, Sept. 9 1960.  Back then we 
memorized schematics!
I passed my Advanced ticket in the late 1970's.


Hats off to you guys that passed the Extra Class ticket back in the days 
when you had to copy & send 20 wpm CW, too

Now to get back to work on K2 & upgrade it from an "A" to a "B."

73,
Lynn - K5AVJ

PS.  All I used was the ARRL Amateur Extra Class License Manual & an extra 
copy of the Q&A pool.  Additional help is available from various websites. 
 Go for it!
http://www.remote.arrl.org/arrlvec/pools.html
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[Elecraft] Run For The Bacon Sprint

2006-07-16 Thread n0jrn
Is coming your way soon !!

Starts in about 1 1/2  hours and runs for two hours.
Heres a nice way to cap off the weekend.   BESIDES
ya cain't go outside and do nutten !  It's to dang hot !

For those adventurous soles,  lets try the higher bands
just for the fun of it.   I'm going to start on 28.060 and see
who drops by.

What the heck,  6 and 10 have been opened off and on all weekend and you
never know.

I plan on spending a few minutes on 10 and 15 around the calling freqs then
join in on 20 and 40.

May try 80 B4 the nights over depending on the noise.

C U  all on the bands.

72   es   oo  JerryN0JRN

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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Fan

2006-07-16 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

The fact that you had the TPA parameter set to 11 degrees would explain the
fan not coming on even with high heat sink temperatures - the firmware did
not know just how hot the heat sink actually was because it was not properly
calibrated.

The temperature displayed in the TPA setting should always be the current
temperature of the heat sink.  The manual instructions indicating that it
should be set to the ambient temperature is correct - provided that the heat
sink has had enough time to aclimate to the surrounding temperature.

If you need more proof of that, set the TPA parameter as described in the
manual (after the KPA100 has been powered off for about 2 hours), and then
transmit for a while.  Afterwards, check the TPA parameter - it will have
gone up to the temperature of the heat sink.

IMHO, what the manual fails to make clear enough is the fact that the heat
sink should be allowed to reach the temperature of the ambient air before
you set the TPA parameter to the temperature of the ambient air.

There is a temperature probe on the KPA100 - it is Q3 which is in contact
with the heat sink.  The firmware does the calculation of when to activate
the fan based on your initial setting of the TPA parameter and the current
temperature of the heat sink.  I am not certain just what the trip point
temperatures are - one could easily check by observing the TPA value at the
time the fan turns on.

It would be a good idea to check the TPA setting before using the KPA100 in
high temperature environments.

73,
Don W3FPR


> -Original Message-
>
> Yesterday I participated with my K2/100 in the Pike Special Event station
> here in Colorado Springs, Colorado.  It was in observance of
> Zebulon Pike's
> bicentennial discovery of Pikes Peak.  We were in a terrible
> location in a
> downtown valley with antenna restrictions imposed by the city Parks and
> Recreation department as the trees are older than the bicentennial.
> Propagation on 20 meters was very bad from our perspective.
>
> Now to my point.  We were outside in 90 degree plus temps for over four
> hours.  We were running PSK31 and SSB.  PSK was kept below 25 watts.  The
> fan on the KPA100 did not come on the entire time.  I had it set
> for LoHi in
> the KPA100 menu.  So it should have at least been on low speed
> all the time.
>   The heat sink got very hotalmost too hot to touch.  A couple time I
> though I smelled hot electronics.  The PA HOT message never appeared.
>
> To add complications when I got home it worked as advertised in my cool
> basement.  I did find the temperature calibration was set at 11 degrees
> centigrade (51 degrees f).  Must have set it during the winter when the
> basement gets chilly.  I reset it to 23 degrees centigrade.  (71
> f).  Does
> anyone know of any mystery problems or other legacy fan problems with the
> KPA100?  In a couple weeks I plan to disassemble it and have a
> look after I
> finish another K2 for an acquantance.  The schematic nor circuit
> description
> does not address the fan itself as I can find.  There is a "T
> sense" circuit
> but how the fan ties in is not shown as I can find.
>
> Your comments and thoughts will be very welcomed.
>
>

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[Elecraft] Legacy (WAS: Look what you've done to me!)

2006-07-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Sadly, Paul W. Klipsch is no longer with us and his company moves on into
second generation. 

The famous Klipschorn corner horn is an amazing speaker. It was even more so
in the 1950's when "Hi-Fi" was a new idea for most. 

His company will continue on, but like all companies it is no longer the
same company with him gone. 

There may be others as great in the field. There may be others even better.
But there won't be another Paul W. Klipsch.

I had the privilege of working for Hewlett-Packard when "Bill" and "Dave"
were still running the show personally. Recently I saw a piece about HP that
showed how their private offices are still maintained at corporate Hq in
Palo Alto, California just as I remember them. The office doors are always
open, just as they were almost all the time when Bill and Dave ran the
company. On Bill's desk was an assortment of coins. Employees leave them
there. The coins are collected from time to time and given to charity.

Like each and every one of us, people like them are unique. Like them, we
each make our own contribution to our world in our own way. Some with things
that are known around the world, some who change the world, some who only
touch other lives quietly and whose names never become famous.

Each one is amazing. It's what makes the world such an amazing place.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Karl Larsen
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 12:47 PM
To: Brian Murrey
Cc: Elecraft email; John Wiener
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Look what you've done to me!


Brian Murrey wrote:
> John
>
> I have LOVED Klipsch speakers for over 30 years.  I don't think you 
> can beat them.  I have a pair of KG-1's that have to be 25 years old 
> in my TV cabinet right now and they sound as good today as the day I 
> bought them.
>   
I live in Las Cruces, NM and went to New Mexico State University in 
the EE Department. I met Paul Klipsch in 1959 at the school. He also 
graduated from NMSU and was designing his speaker enclosures at that 
time. He used real science in his designs and they all do sound good and 
you don't need a big 100 watt RMS amplifier. The EE department is now 
called the Klipsch School of EE.

73 Karl K5DI

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Re: [Elecraft] Look what you've done to me!

2006-07-16 Thread Karl Larsen

Brian Murrey wrote:

John

I have LOVED Klipsch speakers for over 30 years.  I don't think you can beat
them.  I have a pair of KG-1's that have to be 25 years old in my TV cabinet
right now and they sound as good today as the day I bought them.
  
   I live in Las Cruces, NM and went to New Mexico State University in 
the EE Department. I met Paul Klipsch in 1959 at the school. He also 
graduated from NMSU and was designing his speaker enclosures at that 
time. He used real science in his designs and they all do sound good and 
you don't need a big 100 watt RMS amplifier. The EE department is now 
called the Klipsch School of EE.


73 Karl K5DI


Klipsch still makes their loudspakers in the USA, factory is in Hope Arkansas.



- Original Message - 
From: "John Wiener" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft email" 
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Look what you've done to me!


  

I decided to connect my K2 to my computer speakers (Klipsch).  The
stereo plug of course worked for only one channel.
I went to Radio Shack for the correct conversion.  I expected to just
buy two leads, one with an in-line stereo jack and one with a phone
plug and just splice them together.
Turns out they have the correct adapter in one piece (Radio Shack
part #274-882)
so I said to the salesman "I guess I don't have to fire up my
soldering iron, after all" and the guy said "You sound disappointed."

That's when I realized I WAS disappointed.

Elecraft, look what you've done to me!

John
AB8WH

PS, audio quality is much improved with the Klipsch
speakers...significantly less hiss, so less fatigue.
___



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RE: [Elecraft] What should the power output of the K2 be?

2006-07-16 Thread John A. Ross [Ecraft]
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 9:00 PM
> To: 'John A. Ross [Ecraft]'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] What should the power output of the K2 be?

> Welcome to the K2-club John! I built mine in 2000. It's a FB rig. 

Ron

Thanks, you are right, it is a very nice rig indeed and fantastic fun to
build and work on.
 
> The specified output of the K2 is at least 10 watts CW. The 
> actual output varies with the band. It is a function of the 
> overall transmitter path gain.
> It tends to peak about 40 meters, where most K2's will make 
> 15 watts output, or very close to it. Up on 10 meters is 
> where the overall gain is lowest and many K2's just barely 
> make the specified 10 watts output.

> Since you're still getting familiar with your K2, here's a 
> couple of things to remember:
> 
> 1) The POWER control sets the "requested" power output. The 
> K2 monitors the actual power output and adjusts the 
> transmitter gain as needed for what you've requested. The 
> control allows you to "request" any power up to 15 watts, but 
> you can't get that much on all bands. 

OK, that makes sense now. I was not sure if the sample/control loop was
doing something wrong. You never know when firmware has a part in it ;-) 
 
> 2) Because the POWER control circuitry is monitoring the 
> power output to determine how much gain the transmitter 
> circuits should have, the accuracy of the output power 
> setting depends upon how accurately the K2 measures its 
> output. A basic QRP K2 uses a simple RF voltmeter to monitor 
> the output. It is highly-dependent upon an accurate, 
> non-reactive 50-ohm load for good accuracy. Any significant 
> SWR at the transmitter output will affect it, and the actual 
> power output. The (KAT2, etc.) ATU's use a bridge circuit 
> that is a little more accurate, but can still be thrown off 
> by reactive terminations. 

I had not installed the ATU yet, Po was dumped into a DL-600 then checked
again on a 2955B so I am pretty sure the loads were OK.
 
> 3) If you change the POWER control setting you have to 
> transmit before the new power level takes effect, since the 
> K2 must sense the output RF to tell how to adjust the 
> circuits. That means that you may notice that the output is 
> nearly zero when you hit the first dit or dah after turning the K2 on.
> It'll immediately jump up to whatever you have the control 
> set for. The same is in reverse when you turn the power down. 
> The first time you touch the key the power will still be up 
> at the old higher level until there's RF for the circuit to sense. 

OK, clear now.
 
> 3) The K2 is rated at 10 watts PEP on SSB, regardless of how 
> much it will produce. That's  because the distortion 
> increases above 10 watts PEP in SSB mode. CW doesn't need a 
> linear amp, so it's not an issue when you're pounding brass, 
> but don't exceed 10 watts PEP on SSB on any band. 
> 
> 4) The Bargraph power display is in peak power, so it'll show 
> flickers at the PEP peaks instead of the average power like 
> most inexpensive external meters. That cause confusion 
> sometimes when the opr notices that his external meter is 
> wiggling around at 3 or 4 watts while his K2 shows 10 watt 
> peaks on SSB. That's normal. The external meter is showing 
> the average output, not the peak. 

Cheers Ron

All best

John

 
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I have been having great fun with the K2 but I am wondering 
> what the output should be?
> 
> 10W or 15W?
> 
> The Po control seems to indicate 15W should be possible.
> 
> The PA alignment seems OK, or at least as per the manual, 
> Po/current seems to match at the levels stated. 
> 
> But occasionally the built in detector seems to read a little 
> higher than the Po is set to and the full scale setting of 15 
> only seems to yield 11w or so.
> 
> As this is the only one I have built so far I am curious.
> 
> Any guidance appreciated.
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 

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RE: [Elecraft] What should the power output of the K2 be?

2006-07-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The specified output of the K2 is at least 10 watts CW. The actual output
varies with the band. It is a function of the overall transmitter path gain.
It tends to peak about 40 meters, where most K2's will make 15 watts output,
or very close to it. Up on 10 meters is where the overall gain is lowest and
many K2's just barely make the specified 10 watts output. 

Since you're still getting familiar with your K2, here's a couple of things
to remember:

1) The POWER control sets the "requested" power output. The K2 monitors the
actual power output and adjusts the transmitter gain as needed for what
you've requested. The control allows you to "request" any power up to 15
watts, but you can't get that much on all bands. 

2) Because the POWER control circuitry is monitoring the power output to
determine how much gain the transmitter circuits should have, the accuracy
of the output power setting depends upon how accurately the K2 measures its
output. A basic QRP K2 uses a simple RF voltmeter to monitor the output. It
is highly-dependent upon an accurate, non-reactive 50-ohm load for good
accuracy. Any significant SWR at the transmitter output will affect it, and
the actual power output. The (KAT2, etc.) ATU's use a bridge circuit that is
a little more accurate, but can still be thrown off by reactive
terminations. 

3) If you change the POWER control setting you have to transmit before the
new power level takes effect, since the K2 must sense the output RF to tell
how to adjust the circuits. That means that you may notice that the output
is nearly zero when you hit the first dit or dah after turning the K2 on.
It'll immediately jump up to whatever you have the control set for. The same
is in reverse when you turn the power down. The first time you touch the key
the power will still be up at the old higher level until there's RF for the
circuit to sense. 

3) The K2 is rated at 10 watts PEP on SSB, regardless of how much it will
produce. That's  because the distortion increases above 10 watts PEP in SSB
mode. CW doesn't need a linear amp, so it's not an issue when you're
pounding brass, but don't exceed 10 watts PEP on SSB on any band. 

4) The Bargraph power display is in peak power, so it'll show flickers at
the PEP peaks instead of the average power like most inexpensive external
meters. That cause confusion sometimes when the opr notices that his
external meter is wiggling around at 3 or 4 watts while his K2 shows 10 watt
peaks on SSB. That's normal. The external meter is showing the average
output, not the peak. 

Welcome to the K2-club John! I built mine in 2000. It's a FB rig. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Hi all

I have been having great fun with the K2 but I am wondering what the output
should be?

10W or 15W?

The Po control seems to indicate 15W should be possible.

The PA alignment seems OK, or at least as per the manual, Po/current seems
to match at the levels stated. 

But occasionally the built in detector seems to read a little higher than
the Po is set to and the full scale setting of 15 only seems to yield 11w or
so.

As this is the only one I have built so far I am curious.

Any guidance appreciated.

John


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[Elecraft] Next Generation Un-Module PCB Half Price Pre-Production Sale

2006-07-16 Thread Gary Hvizdak
>From now through Saturday July 22nd, Ken and I are offering a half price 
pre-production sale on our completely redesigned Rework Eliminator(TM) 
brand K2 un-module option bypass header PCB kits.  Please visit 
http://www.unpcbs.com/news/ for the full details of this new product and
promotion.

We request that you spread word of this sale to those K2 owners whom you
you know, who aren't active on the Reflector.

We are offering this sale because ...

o   We feel strongly that every K2 owner can benefit from these headers.

o   The more we can sell by offering a sale, the lower our per board
costs will be, and the lower we can set our final post-sale prices.

73,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067

P.S.  It's still not to late to suggest improvements to this product.
  We welcome your input.

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Re: [Elecraft] Look what you've done to me!

2006-07-16 Thread Brian Murrey
John

I have LOVED Klipsch speakers for over 30 years.  I don't think you can beat
them.  I have a pair of KG-1's that have to be 25 years old in my TV cabinet
right now and they sound as good today as the day I bought them.

Klipsch still makes their loudspakers in the USA, factory is in Hope Arkansas.



- Original Message - 
From: "John Wiener" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft email" 
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 2:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Look what you've done to me!


> I decided to connect my K2 to my computer speakers (Klipsch).  The
> stereo plug of course worked for only one channel.
> I went to Radio Shack for the correct conversion.  I expected to just
> buy two leads, one with an in-line stereo jack and one with a phone
> plug and just splice them together.
> Turns out they have the correct adapter in one piece (Radio Shack
> part #274-882)
> so I said to the salesman "I guess I don't have to fire up my
> soldering iron, after all" and the guy said "You sound disappointed."
>
> That's when I realized I WAS disappointed.
>
> Elecraft, look what you've done to me!
>
> John
> AB8WH
>
> PS, audio quality is much improved with the Klipsch
> speakers...significantly less hiss, so less fatigue.
> ___
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>
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> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW Plug Wiring

2006-07-16 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 7/16/06 1:21:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> Therefore I assume one uses the TIP
> and GND for hand/external keying?

Yep, that's it. Just Let RING float (connect it to nothing)

73 de Jim, N2EY
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[Elecraft] What should the power output of the K2 be?

2006-07-16 Thread John A. Ross [Ecraft]
Hi all

I have been having great fun with the K2 but I am wondering what the output
should be?

10W or 15W?

The Po control seems to indicate 15W should be possible.

The PA alignment seems OK, or at least as per the manual, Po/current seems
to match at the levels stated. 

But occasionally the built in detector seems to read a little higher than
the Po is set to and the full scale setting of 15 only seems to yield 11w or
so.

As this is the only one I have built so far I am curious.

Any guidance appreciated.

John

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[Elecraft] Look what you've done to me!

2006-07-16 Thread John Wiener
I decided to connect my K2 to my computer speakers (Klipsch).  The  
stereo plug of course worked for only one channel.
I went to Radio Shack for the correct conversion.  I expected to just  
buy two leads, one with an in-line stereo jack and one with a phone  
plug and just splice them together.
Turns out they have the correct adapter in one piece (Radio Shack  
part #274-882)
so I said to the salesman "I guess I don't have to fire up my  
soldering iron, after all" and the guy said "You sound disappointed."


That's when I realized I WAS disappointed.

Elecraft, look what you've done to me!

John
AB8WH

PS, audio quality is much improved with the Klipsch  
speakers...significantly less hiss, so less fatigue.

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[Elecraft] Weller WTCPT illuminated rocker switch

2006-07-16 Thread G. Beat

Finding the correct illuminated (neon lighted) rocker switch used in the
Weller base units for their soldering stations, can be a daunting task.



For the Weller WTCPS, WTCPT, WLC100, WPC300, EC1001, EC3000, early EC1002 
models -- Weller used 2 primary suppliers for the illuminated (neon) power 
switch on these base units: C&K (ITT) and Carling (632 series)



The Carling 632 series, can be found here (updated Carling web site)
http://rocker-switches.carlingtech.com/illuminated-rocker-switch__37.asp

Specifically the replacement part number appears to be:  632152-2B-JN
http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/CarlingSW_622_632.pdf

This Carling switch is now as a solid color rocker or as a translucent solid 
rocker
available in Blue, Green, Amber as well as Red.  It is available in a wide 
range of lamp voltages from unballasted LED (3 VDC) to 250 V Neon


Finding these switches for component replacement can be difficult.
Some manufacturers only sell as an OEM component, will other suppliers 
eliminated the specific model, or require a special order with a quantity of 
100 to 1,000 units.


Specifications of the Weller illuminated (neon) rocker switch

120 VAC at 8 A
SPST (On-None-Off)
120 VAC neon illumination
.187" quick disconnects for ease of replacement with existing Weller wiring

The Carling Switch current used by Weller has a nice rounded edge to the
translucent rocker -- NKK and Cherry have a more rectangular, distinct edge.

GC / Waldom Electronics now carried the exact Carling switch being used in
current Weller production.



GC Switch number:  35-696  SPST ON / OFF- RED CLEAR ROCKER
As of July 16th, they reported 239 in stock !
Cost was about $ 2.50 (very reasonable for a blister pack part)

Available at any electronics distributor or parts store - that carry 
CG/Waldom

http://www.gcwaldom.com/home.html

Two additional candidates for this illuminated rocker switch replacement are 
available  from NKK Switch and Cherry.
These suppliers have both 120 VAC (NA, Japan) and 240 VAC (EU, Asia) neon 
versions in their catalogs for these line voltages.

The Cherry model comes in an Amber and Green color option.

NKK CWSB21CACF (this is DPST version) - works by NOT using the "2a" contact 
(heat shrink insulation over QC plug).

Allied Electronics part number: 870-0119
Allied & NKK did not list the SPST version in the catalog.
I have personally used this part for replacing a defective switch in a PU120
based unit (WTCPS) - it works fine.

Cherry LR Series ... LRA22H2BBRLN --- SPST
Allied part number 908-0105
I have personally used this switch for replacing a defective switch.
At 97 cents - it is a GREAT inexpensive buy
http://www.cherrycorp.com/english/rockers/lr_rocker.htm

Greg
w9gb


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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 27, Issue 17 Concerning 10 Meter Openings

2006-07-16 Thread Wa6bfh
These are Sporadic E-layer skip. This is not unusual at all at this time of  
year.
 
50 MHz is also open quite often by this same mechanism. Follow the "MUF" by  
listening to beacons, Muzak broadcast in the 48 MHz region, or 28.885 MHz for  
announcements. The 6 Meter Band web reflectors are also good sources of what  
Mother Nature is up to!
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[Elecraft] FS: K2 with options - PRICE REDUCED

2006-07-16 Thread Ken K3IU
PRICE REDUCED! 
 
I've decided that I want to explore the possibilities of Software Defined
Radio. In order to do that I must sell one of my K2s. This is a serial 37xx
vintage K2 and has been upgraded to the latest production configuration and
firmware. It has the 60 meter / transverter interface option as well as the
usual options. Everything meets or exceeds specifications.

I have built 10 K2s and all options. This was the 5th one. 

Please contact me directly ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) if you have an interest.

Thanks!

=

K2 (s/n 37xx) with the following options: K160RX, K60XV, KNB2, KSB2, KAF2,
KAT2, KIO2, and FDIMP all upgraded to the latest configuration and firmware.

Of course, all the documentation and usual miscellaneous tools, jumpers and
probes, etc., are available and included.

Asking $1050 Delivered USPS Priority Mail to the US (Others please contact
me about delivery).

Without the KAT2 and KIO2 - $825 delivered as above

If you need/want a KPA100, a KAT100-1, and/or the KDSP2, I have them on my
other K2 and am willing to talk about selling them.

Check (ship after clears), Postal MO, or PayPal.

=

Thanks...

73,

Ken Wagner K3IU
Portsmouth, RI
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[Elecraft] K2 CW Plug Wiring

2006-07-16 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Hi,

  A couple of questions:

 
  1. Wondering how the CW plug for Hand or External
keyer is wired? The K2 manual (pdf vers) doesn't
indicate this directly, it just says the RING is used
only for a Paddle. Therefore I assume one uses the TIP
and GND for hand/external keying? Along of course with
setting the appropriate options in the K2. Checked the
archives back aways, didn't see anything on this.

 2. With my TenTec Argo V model 516 (former rig), if I
was in CW mode, keying the mic would also key the rig,
without audio from the mic. Is this possible with the
K2? Mainly used when tuning via an external tuner. (I
do have the KSB2 module installed).

   K2 #5601 ETA: 21Jul2k6

  72 de N8PVZ
---bernie


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[Elecraft] KX1 display flicker after activating SCAN mode?

2006-07-16 Thread Steven M. Knapp
I hit upon the scan mode by accident with my brand new KX1. Reading the 
manual it appears the memories are the scan boundaries. I've not set 
these, so they would be whatever default.


I've noticed that while scanning, and even after scanning, the RF I hear 
is reduced from what I had heard before. And the display flickers, for 
example if it's displaying 2 it will flicker to 3.


It keeps doing this until I power cycle the radio. Then the RF/signal 
goes back to normal, and the display works OK.


Well, the decimal point seems to flicker once and awhile. I've double 
checked the solder joints, esp around the display and micro. Vibration 
does not cause the flicker either.


Normal stuff here?
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RE: [Elecraft] KPA100 Fan

2006-07-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I can't speak to the issue of the fan not coming on, but I can offer some
experience with a hot heat sink. A few years ago I used my K2/100 to test
the temperature compensation mods during which the heat sink became too hot
to hold my hand on it. The internal air temperature of the K2 was around
50C/122F (monitored by a probe) with the fan running. No ill effects
resulted. It's designed for that sort of thing.

Ron AC7AC 


-Original Message-
Hi,

Yesterday I participated with my K2/100 in the Pike Special Event station 
here in Colorado Springs, Colorado.  It was in observance of Zebulon Pike's 
bicentennial discovery of Pikes Peak.  We were in a terrible location in a 
downtown valley with antenna restrictions imposed by the city Parks and 
Recreation department as the trees are older than the bicentennial.  
Propagation on 20 meters was very bad from our perspective.

Now to my point.  We were outside in 90 degree plus temps for over four 
hours.  We were running PSK31 and SSB.  PSK was kept below 25 watts.  The 
fan on the KPA100 did not come on the entire time.  I had it set for LoHi in

the KPA100 menu.  So it should have at least been on low speed all the time.

  The heat sink got very hotalmost too hot to touch.  A couple time I 
though I smelled hot electronics.  The PA HOT message never appeared.

To add complications when I got home it worked as advertised in my cool 
basement.  I did find the temperature calibration was set at 11 degrees 
centigrade (51 degrees f).  Must have set it during the winter when the 
basement gets chilly.  I reset it to 23 degrees centigrade.  (71 f).  Does 
anyone know of any mystery problems or other legacy fan problems with the 
KPA100?  In a couple weeks I plan to disassemble it and have a look after I 
finish another K2 for an acquantance.  The schematic nor circuit description

does not address the fan itself as I can find.  There is a "T sense" circuit

but how the fan ties in is not shown as I can find.

Your comments and thoughts will be very welcomed.

Jim, AB0UK
K2/100  S/N 4787

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Fan

2006-07-16 Thread JIMMY D HARRIS

Hi,

Yesterday I participated with my K2/100 in the Pike Special Event station 
here in Colorado Springs, Colorado.  It was in observance of Zebulon Pike's 
bicentennial discovery of Pikes Peak.  We were in a terrible location in a 
downtown valley with antenna restrictions imposed by the city Parks and 
Recreation department as the trees are older than the bicentennial.  
Propagation on 20 meters was very bad from our perspective.


Now to my point.  We were outside in 90 degree plus temps for over four 
hours.  We were running PSK31 and SSB.  PSK was kept below 25 watts.  The 
fan on the KPA100 did not come on the entire time.  I had it set for LoHi in 
the KPA100 menu.  So it should have at least been on low speed all the time. 
 The heat sink got very hotalmost too hot to touch.  A couple time I 
though I smelled hot electronics.  The PA HOT message never appeared.


To add complications when I got home it worked as advertised in my cool 
basement.  I did find the temperature calibration was set at 11 degrees 
centigrade (51 degrees f).  Must have set it during the winter when the 
basement gets chilly.  I reset it to 23 degrees centigrade.  (71 f).  Does 
anyone know of any mystery problems or other legacy fan problems with the 
KPA100?  In a couple weeks I plan to disassemble it and have a look after I 
finish another K2 for an acquantance.  The schematic nor circuit description 
does not address the fan itself as I can find.  There is a "T sense" circuit 
but how the fan ties in is not shown as I can find.


Your comments and thoughts will be very welcomed.

Jim, AB0UK
K2/100  S/N 4787


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[Elecraft] USB --> Setial Converters

2006-07-16 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Another good source for USB --> Serial converters (and
computer stuff in general is 

 www.newegg.com

  Good prices & fast shipping, although shipping
charges for some lower priced items can approach the
cost of the item itself (Yuck!).

I have one (by Sabrent, Newegg offers several of
theirs) from Newegg - works great.

Note: some laptops may not provide enough power to the
converters for the converter to operate properly.
Also, some keying programs may not work with a
converter.

Usual disclaimer - no financial interest, etc.

 72 de N8PVZ
---bernie


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Re:Subject: [Elecraft] wiring key plug for keying

2006-07-16 Thread Paul Picking
Have not found it in manual yet but it is wired just like my FT100D.  Tip is 
dots in "Pdn" and Tip is key in "Hdn" under "Inp" on menu --- hope this 
helps
Paul WD8OJL KX1 sn 1082 4 band with ATU

just acquired a used KX1 and trying to figure out the wiring of the 
stereo key plug both for a straight key and for a paddle. I only have the
PDF version of the manual, where do I find it? or is there a standard
method of doing it?  
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2006-07-16 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Morning,
   I am sorry this is late but I just got home from a very long day.  I  
worked with the local ARES group at the Hillsboro Airshow.  We found four  
lost children, assisted in a few medical problems, worked on fire watch,  
and generally stayed on our feet for about twelve hours.  It was good to  
do a little community service and meet a lot of nice folks.
   This afternoon and evening (after I get a night's rest) we'll have two  
more nets and see how propagation treats us.  I heard reports of 6 and 10  
meters being open yesterday so 20 meters may be very good tomorrow  
(today?) too.  That may mean we'll be working into Europe or it may mean  
North America will be easy copy.  One can never tell.  The sun looks a bit  
quiet but I've found that is not always an indicator of what may happen on  
the air.  Simply getting on and calling CQ does wonders when the bands are  
supposedly dead.  All it takes is one op to call and the others will find  
the band is not as dead as they first thought.


 Please join us:
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT)  7045 kHz

Until tomorrow,
   Kevin. KD5ONS
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